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IA.%, & c \' '• 

z \ w\©U ft ^cVi 3 No. lOO 


THE GULF AND RIVER 
ST. LAWRENCE 


THIRD EDITION 
1908 


PUBLISHED BY THE HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE 
UNDER THE AUTHORITY OF THE 
SECRETARY OF THE NAVY 



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WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 
1908 


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2 1909 
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CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Note. 5 

Index chart.Faces 7 

Information relating to navigational aids and general navigation. 7 

Index. 563 

List of Hydrographic Office agents. 597 

List of Hydrographic Office publications. 593 

CHAPTER I. 

Canada and the eastern maritime provinces, general remarks—Navigation, ice, 
fogs, winds and weather, currents, tides—Lights, buoys, signal stations, tele¬ 
graph cables, docks, coal, repairs, pilots—Nova Scotia banks—General direc¬ 
tions, St. Lawrence gulf and river. 27 

CHAPTER II. 

Islands in the gulf of St. Lawrence. 74 

CHAPTER III. 

Cape Breton island, west coast and St. George bay. 110 

CHAPTER IV. 

Northumberland strait, south and west shores, cape George to Miramichi 
bay. 138 

CHAPTER V. 

Prince Edward island, Northumberland strait, north shore. 189 

CHAPTER VI. 

Gulf of St. Lawrence, west coast, Miramichi bay to Gasp4 bay. 245 

CHAPTER VII. 

St. Lawrence river, south shore, cape Gasp4 to Green island. 302 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Remarks on Belle Isle strait—Gulf of St. Lawrence, north coast, Belle Isle 
strait to cape Whittle. 325 

CHAPTER IX. 

Gulf of St. Lawrence, north coast, cape Whittle to point des Monts. 369 

3 


















4 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER X. 

Page. 

St. Lawrence river, north shore, point des Monts to Saguenay river, and the 

Saguenay river. 414 

CHAPTER XI. 

St. Lawrence river, Green island and Red islet to South Traverse and Coudres 
island. 438 

CHAPTER XII. 

St. Lawrence river, South, Middle, and North channels to Quebec. 465 

CHAPTER XIII. 

St. Lawrence river, Quebec to Montreal. 508 

CHAPTER XIV. 

General description of canal, lake, and river navigation above Montreal. 547 

Meteorological tables. 556 








NOTE. 


This publication, a revision of the second edition, includes the 
latest available information from all reliable sources; it cancels the 
previous editions, all supplements, and all Hydrographic Office No¬ 
tices to Mariners which concern the gulf and river St. Lawrence up 
to and including No. 26 of 1908. 

Mariners are earnestly requested to notify the United States Hy¬ 
drographic Office, directly or through one of its branch offices, of any 
new information obtained, or of any errors or omissions discovered 
in the present edition. 

The bearings, courses, and trend of the land are true, and are given 
to the nearest degree, from 0° to 360°, commencing at the North 
point, in accordance with the new system recently adopted by the 
f United States Navy. The cardinal and intercardinal points of the 
compass, when used, are only as names to express the general direc¬ 
tion of the winds, currents, etc. Variations, other than those at the 
heads of chapters, may be obtained from H. O. Chart No. 2406. 

The directions of winds refer to the points from which they blow; 
of currents, the points toward which they set. These directions are 
also true. 

Distances are expressed in nautical miles, the mile being approxi¬ 
mately 2,000 yards. 

The soundings are referred to mean low water, unless it is other¬ 
wise stated. 

The latest information as to lights should always be sought in the 
light lists. 




























































































































































V 







• ■ 









































































7 0' 


Ml 


r ~r 


i—r 


69* 


68 ' 


T~'T“ 


67* 


T T 


64-“ 


61* 


59* 


1 — r 


CANADA 

INDEX 

TO 

COAST, SPECIAL.AND HARBOR CHARTS 




-A num&r oct fhe. name of a pl/i-re /Juts, Heron Chun. 7-496 

iniiCa/Ai the. catalogue number of the- chart of that place. 


1013 




50* - 


49* — 






C. Ga.spe 



^ IfamJlbr H64 

' 4 J 


g rr x f 


Bear & 30© 




""tl *” 8 


60 ^Sr.MarpuretB^ 


■SKf^’ 

Ca 

StJahn^I 

2\0&trovd fit St John Hbr 
l|t<2 Saycufel l Old Tort tut Choix^Tj 

Tnejorna-choLxfi A 
( T Saunders 
l75*| //dv he Hbr 
\ KeppelHbr 


2415 Portland Cove 


10 91 Coyf'Hd HI- 





/ le t?' y 

0,1 * OT ''-1 


2362 CatAnnM 


9*3 J at >"*i 

2364 SopsJ^pin7(, 

is_i —^ 


“TTS? - 


■ M ' 


2152 Hollih^sWWTA^^ ujfflr^} 21 ’’ 


: Eajt Cape 306 
O F 


S T. 


-ft-l” ,a - 

3. of Islands ^ 
597a/tak- r J ° 
2094 Dene *\n-eid 


3 °3i* 



1105 


‘"'"Oefhlz 


54? 53* 

-j-1--1 I T 

North oflteDo Mr St/. 

) Ca rtwmgh t ffi’f 

A i dependent Hbr 
Verm on hcJ<le/ 

Ft .thing Ship Hbr 
St. Fra noi* Hbr 

. j Ltdion 7YcLIe 
^ \ Oocufiotuil Hhr 


52® 


J 186 O 


, y Hbr 794 
0»* n i 

l Aujiiillette* Tr^r/79't 

*4# ft nr-. . -wo 


tr’t Hbr 


W ,fi 79 
1345 

Orctnge A. 7 3 6 




[Paquet 
iZa Srir ffbr. 

242 5 Wn ottfcs-AmiJinrh. 
\Nipjper* Hbr. 
\Snlrwater Pond B. 


9 24) 



* W /XJ 

"yeSrf 0 ^ 9 

y-tte 


51 


— 50* 


TheNtur cry s 5§7a 


WHENCE 


1092 


'fiscou Hbr 




J... 


■***»' Hbr 


60 " 


B U U 

St. Lew fence diver 

Quehee to H.S-t Amain*. ....■' 

Pt-Slpaitoine to St*. Emilia ...X 

ste Email* to Chnm.pLai-7' ......1 

Champin,m, to Point dioloa; . .. . . *357 

Point dusJ-ar vichuhnp St Peter to71 e aurc Raisins . .1356 

lie <mx Rainnx- to lie Sl.Ou.ry. ...I3&5 

He St. Ours to Ca.pe ScMirPal . . . .1354- 

Cope St Mcrjiel to Montreal, .. 1353 

-Montreal todectuliamnie Cartel .1352 

BeeuPiartxois Corneal to Mc.Ktee Pi. ...... 1351 

Me Kies Pt. to Cornwall .. . .1350 

U. S. HYDROGRAPHIC OFFICE CHARTS ARE SHOWN IN SLACK 

BRITISH ADMIRALTY CHARTS ARE SHOWN IN RED. 


Magdalen 
Islands, 








***«3 


tfogol 
Seldom 

SfjiqHhr Tickle 3 


’oofs 17br 580 


74 

m 



49' 


•0*2^ 



■frnz 






j 




7.4'^ 






- iJ 

1067 

- d * I P - 

, /V 

_ 

^.^TRtK C T, ED W A K O 



^StTanll 611 


I-iK 


ISLAND 


CarcUd^ 


71 c 


70* 


69* 


—i- f - . i : 


Great fir or D'Or 
f,-\St^Ann <* Hhr. 113 4 





1053 2dnjtieLorilload ) 
NUgrceTon Is 1 


Sydney Hbr: 1 Ufel 




Catalina Hbr 
5 80 
nl* 

a y> 




48° 


) l , lxu'.enHcL fi 


A •* 


J But-in Hbr.* | 

**St. Laivrcnc eHhr*\ 


■W 


-^8^1089 





21391 


. ,C.$J ear 

#<7o:F 


gTT .vD* 


S l - 


r m 


YI0S6 


J 


J 





rUls 

2054 - 


— 47° 


C Race 


hdz: 


2^4 CL 


^ Scataril.l097 

r i! 

ouisbxirg Hbr. 1694 


65° 


62° 


'^rVfn di^xii o 1.12 72 
\edab\Lo to Bay • •» 


East Coast of United States 

Belle Isle to New YotIc ... 1912 

NaZifcuc to Kay West . . 1411 

Halifax to Hew York .941 

BuxKarels Bay to Cape Lookout 942 

Cape. Hatteras to Ca.pe Canaveral 943 
Cape Cana veral fo Havanas 944 

Geo,yrs Shoal 217, 218,219. Xr 220 




60" 




5sr 


J L 


57" 


J L 


46 " 


55* 


54' 


53® 


j y 







































































































































































































































































































INFORMATION RELATING TO NAVIGATIONAL AIDS 
AND GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


THE CORRECTION OF CHARTS, EIGHT EISTS, AND SAIDING 
DIRECTIONS. 

The following-named publications are issued by the United States 
Hydrographic Office as guides to navigation: Charts, Chart Cata¬ 
logues, Sailing Directions, Light Lists, Tide Tables, Notices to Mari¬ 
ners, Pilot Charts, and Hydrographic Bulletins. Of these, the 
Notices to Mariners and the Hydrographic Bulletins are free to 
mariners and others interested in shipping. The Pilot Charts are 
free to contributors of professional information, but sold to the 
general public at 10 cents a copy. The other publications of the 
office are sold under the law at cost price. 

The Charts, the Sailing Directions, and the Light Lists are all 
affected by continual changes and alterations, concerning which 
information is published weekly to all parts of the world in the 
Notices to Mariners. 

The Charts should always be, so far as our knowledge permits, 
absolutely correct to date; and the Light Lists should be noted for 
the recent alterations and additions. The Sailing Directions, how¬ 
ever, can not, from their nature, be so fully corrected, and in all 
cases where they differ from the charts, the charts must be taken as 
the guide. 

Charts.—When issued from the Hydrographic Office, the charts 
have received all necessary corrections to date. 

All small but important corrections that can be made by hand are 
given in the Notices to Mariners, and should at once be placed on the 
charts to which they refer. 

Extensive corrections that can not be conveniently thus made are 
put upon the plates, and new copies are issued to the ships to replace 
the old, which are directed to be destroyed to prevent the possibility 
of their being used in the navigation of the ship. 

The dates on which extensive corrections are made are noted on the 
chart on the right of the middle of the lower edge; those of the 
smaller corrections at the left lower corner. 

In all cases of quotations of charts these dates of corrections should 
be given, as well as the number of the chart (found in the right 
lower corner), in order that the edition of the chart referred to may 
be known. 

The Light Lists are corrected before issue, and all changes are 
published in the weekly Notices to Mariners, 

(7) 



8 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


The navigating officer should make notations in the Light Lists 
and paste in at the appropriate places slips from the Notices to 
Mariners. 

The Light Lists should always be consulted as to the details of a 
light, as the description in the Sailing Directions may be obsolete, in 
consequence of changes since publication. 

The Sailing Directions are corrected before issue, and subse¬ 
quently should be kept corrected by means of the Notices to Mariners. 

Supplements are published from time to time and contain all the 
information received up to date since the publication of the volume 
to which they refer, canceling all previous Notices to Mariners. 

The existence of Supplements or Notices to Mariners is to be noted 
in the tabular form inside the cover of each volume. 

To enable the books to be more conveniently corrected, Supple¬ 
ments and Notices to Mariners are printed on one side only, and two 
copies are issued to each ship—one to be cut and the slips pasted 
in at the appropriate places, the other to be retained intact for 
reference. 

To make the notations and paste in the slips, as the Notices ^o 
Mariners are received, is one of the duties of the navigating officer 
demanding faithful attention. 

It must, however, be understood that Sailing Directions will rarely 
be correct in all details, and that, as already stated, w T hen differences 
exist, the chart, which should be corrected from the most recent 
information, should be taken as the guide, for which purpose, for 
ordinary navigation, it is sufficient. 

The Tide Tables, which are published annually by the United 
States Coast and Geodetic Survey, give the predicted times and 
heights of the high and the low waters for every day in the year at 
70 of the principal ports of the world, and, through the medium of 
these by means of tidal differences and ratios, at a very large number 
of subordinate ports. The Tables for the Atlantic and the Pacific 
coast ports of the United States are also published separately. 

It should be remembered that these tables aim to give the times of 
high and low water, and not the times of turning of the current or of 
slack water, which may be quite different. 

Notices to Mariners, containing fresh information pertaining to 
all parts of the world, are published weekly and mailed to all United 
States ships in commission, Hydrographic branch offices and agen¬ 
cies, United States consulates, and foreign hydrographic offices. 
Copies are furnished free by the main office or by any of the branch 
offices on application. 

With each Notice is sent also a separate sheet, giving the items 
relating to lights contained in the latest Notice, intended espe¬ 
cially for use in correcting the Light Lists. 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


9 


Pilot Charts of the North Atlantic and North Pacific oceans are 
published near the beginning of each month. These charts give the 
average conditions of wind and weather, barometer, percentage of 
fog and gales, and routes for steam and sailing vessels for the 
month of issue; ice and derelicts of the preceding month; ocean 
currents and magnetic variation for the year; storm tracks of pre¬ 
ceding years; and much other useful information. They are fur¬ 
nished free only in exchange for marine data or observations. 

Hydrographic Bulletins, published weekly, are supplemental 
to the North Atlantic Pilot Chart and contain the latest news of 
wrecks and derelicts along the American coast and ocean routes, 
Arctic ice, reports of the use of oil to calm the sea, and other infor¬ 
mation for mariners. They are to be had free upon application. 

THE USE OF CHARTS. 

Accuracy of chart.—The value of a chart must manifestly de¬ 
pend upon the character and accuracy of the survey on which it is 
based, and the larger the scale of the chart the more important do 
these become. 

To judge of a survey, its source and date, which are generally 
given in the title, are a good guide. Besides the changes that may 
have taken place since the date of the survey in waters where sand or 
mud prevails, the earlier surveys were mostly made under circum¬ 
stances that precluded great accuracy of detail; until a plan founded 
on such a survey is tested it should be regarded with caution. It may 
indeed be said that, except in well-frequented harbors and their 
approaches, no surveys yet made have been so minute in their exam¬ 
ination of the bottom as to make it certain that all dangers have been 
found. The fullness or scantiness of the soundings is another method 
of estimating the completeness of the survey, remembering, however, 
that the chart is not expected to show all soundings that were 
obtained. When the soundings are sparse or unevenly distributed 
it may be taken for granted that the survey was not in great detail. 

Large or irregular blank spaces among soundings mean that no 
soundings were obtained in these spots. When the surrounding 
soundings are deep it may fairly be assumed that in the blanks the 
water is also deep; but when they are shallow, or it can be seen from 
the rest of the chart that reefs or banks are present, such blanks 
should be regarded with suspicion. This is especially the case in 
coral regions and off rocky coasts, and it should be remembered that 
in waters where rocks abound it is always possible that a survey, 
however complete and detailed, may have failed to find every small 
patch or pinnacle rock. 

A wide berth should therefore be given to every rocky shore or 
patch, and instead of considering a coast to be clear, the contrary 
should be assumed. 


10 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


Fathom curves a caution. —Except in plans of harbors that 
have been surveyed in detail, the 5-fathom curve on most charts may 
be considered as a danger line, or caution against unnecessarily 
approaching the shore or bank within that line on account of the 
possible existence of undiscovered inequalities of the bottom, which 
only an elaborate detailed survey could reveal. In general surveys 
of coasts, or of little-frequented anchorages, the necessities of navi¬ 
gation do not demand the great expenditure of time required for so 
detailed a survey. It is not contemplated that ships will approach 
the shores in such localities without taking special precautions. 

The 10-fathom curves on rocky shores is another warning, espe¬ 
cially for ships of heavy draft. 

A useful danger line will be obtained by tracing out with a colored 
pencil or ink the line of depth next greater than the draft of the ship 
using the chart. For vessels drawing less than 18 feet the edge of 
the sanding serves as a well-marked danger line. 

Charts on which no fathom curves are marked must especially be 
regarded with caution, as indicating that soundings were too scanty 
and the bottom too uneven to enable the lines to be drawn with 
accuracy. 

Isolated soundings, shoaler than surrounding depths, should 
always be avoided, especially if ringed around, as it is doubtful 
how closely the spot may have been examined and whether the 
least depth has been found. 

The chart on largest scale should always be used on account of 
its greater detail and the greater accuracy with which positions may 
be plotted on it. 

Caution in using small-scale charts. —In approaching the 
land or dangerous banks regard must always be had to the scale of 
the chart used. A small error in laying down a position means only 
yards on a large-scale chart, whereas on one of small scale the same 
amount of displacement means a large fraction of a mile. 

Distortion of printed charts. —The paper on which charts are 
printed has to be damped. On drying distortion takes place from the 
inequalities of the paper, which greatly varies with different paper 
and the amount of the original damping, but it does not affect navi¬ 
gation. It must not, however, be expected that accurate series of 
angles taken to different points will always exactly agree when care¬ 
fully plotted on the chart, especially if the lines to objects be long. 
The larger the chart the greater the amount of this distortion. 

Mercator’s chart. —Observed bearings are not identical with 
those measured on the mercator chart (excepting only the bearings 
North and South, and East and West on the equator) because the line 
of sight, except as affected by refraction, is a straight line, and lies 
in the plane of the great circle, while the straight line on the chart 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


11 


(except the meridian line) represents, not the arc of a great circle, 
but the loxodromic curve, which on the globe is a spiral terminating 
at the pole, or, if the direction be East and West, a circle of latitude. 

The difference is not appreciable with near objects, and in ordinary 
navigation may be neglected. But in high latitudes, when the 
objects are very distant, and especially when lying near east or west, 
the bearings must be corrected for the convergence of the meridians 
in order to be accurately placed on the mercator chart, which repre¬ 
sents the meridians as parallel. 

On the poly conic chart, since a straight line represents (within the 
limits of 15 or 20 degrees of longitude) the arc of a great circle or 
the shortest distance between two points, bearings on the chart are 
identical with observed bearings. 

The Mercator projection is evidently unsuited to surveying, for 
which purpose the poly conic projection is used by the Hydrographic 
Office and the Coast and Geodetic Survey, and the gnomonic projec¬ 
tion by the British service. 

Notes on charts should always be read with care, as they may 
give important information that can not be graphically represented. 

Buoys.—It is manifestly impossible to rely on buoys always 
maintaining their exact positions. Buoys should therefore be re¬ 
garded as warnings, and not as infallible navigating marks,especially 
when in exposed places; and a ship’s position should always, when 
possible, be checked by bearings or angles of fixed objects on shore. 

Gas buoys.—The lights shown by gas buoys can not be implicitly 
relied on; the light may be altogether extinguished, or, if intermit¬ 
tent, the apparatus may get out of order. 

Lights.—All the distances given in the light lists and on the 
charts for the visibility of lights are calculated for a height of 15 
feet for the observer’s eye. The effect of a greater or less height of 
eye can be ascertained by means of the table of distances of visibility 
due to the height, published in the light lists. 

The glare of a powerful light is often seen far beyond the limit of 
visibility of the actual rays of the light, but this must not be con¬ 
founded with the true range. Refraction, too, may often cause a 
light to be seen farther than under ordinary circumstances. 

When looking out for a light, the fact may be forgotten that aloft 
the range of vision is much increased. By noting a star immediately 
over the light a very correct bearing may be afterwards obtained 
from the standard compass. 

On first making a light from the bridge, by at once lowering the 
eye several feet and noting whether the light is made to dip, it may 
be determined whether the ship is on the circle of visibility corre¬ 
sponding with the usual height of the eye or unexpectedly nearer 
the light. 


12 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


The intrinsic power of a light should always be considered when 
expecting to make it in thick weather. A weak light is easily 
obscured by haze and no dependence can be placed on its being seen. 

The power of a light can be estimated by its order, as stated in the 
light lists, and in some cases by noting how much its visibility in 
clear weather falls short of the range corresponding to its height. 
Thus, a light standing 200 feet above the sea and recorded as visible 
only 10 miles in clear weather is manifestly of little brilliancy, as its 
height would permit it to be seen over 20 miles if of sufficient power. 

Fog signals. —Sound is conveyed in a very capricious way 
through the atmosphere. Apart from the influence of the wind 
large areas of silence have been found in different directions and 
at different distances from the origin of sound, even in clear weather; 
therefore, too much confidence should not be felt as to hearing a fog 
signal. The apparatus, moreover, for sounding the signal often 
requires some time before it is in readiness to act. A fog often 
creeps imperceptibly toward the land and is not observed by the 
lighthouse people until upon them; a ship may have been for many 
hours in it and approaching the land in confidence, depending on 
the signal, which is not sounded. When sound travels against the 
wind it may be thrown upward. A man aloft might then hear it, 
though inaudible on deck. 

Taken together, these facts should induce the utmost caution in 
closing the land in fogs. The lead is generally the only safe guide 
and should be faithfully used. 

Tides. —A knowledge of the times of high and low water and of 
the amount of vertical rise and fall of the tide is of great importance 
in the case of vessels entering or leaving port, especially when the 
channel depths are less than or near their dr At. Such knowledge is 
also useful at times to vessels running close along a coast in enabling 
them to anticipate the effect of the tidal currents in setting them on 
or off shore. This is especially important in fog or thick weather. 

The predicted times and heights of the high and low w T aters, or 
differences by which they may be readily obtained, are given in the 
tide tables for all the important ports of the world. The height at 
any intermediate time may be obtained by means of Table 2 for most 
of the principal tidal stations of the United States given in Table 1, 
and for the subordinate stations of Table 3 by multiplying its values 
by the ratio of mean ranges, provided the duration of rise and fall is 
sensibly the same at the subordinate as at the principal station. The 
intermediate height may also be obtained by plotting the predicted 
times and heights of high and low water and connecting the points 
by a curve. Such knowledge is often useful in crossing a bar or 
shallow flats. 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


13 


Planes of reference.* —The plane of reference for soundings on 
Hydrographic Office charts made from United States Government 
surveys and on Coast and Geodetic Survey charts of the Atlantic 
coast of the United States is mean low water; on the Pacific coast 
of the United States as far as the strait of Fuca, it is the mean of 
the lower low waters; and from Puget sound to Alaska the Survey 
has adopted the harmonic or Indian tide plane, which is roughly 
that of the lowest low waters observed. 

On most of the British Admiralty charts the plane of reference is 
the low water of ordinary springs; on French charts, the low water 
of equinoctial springs. 

In the case of many charts compiled from old or various sources 
the plane of reference may be in doubt. In such cases, or whenever 
not stated on the chart, the assumption that the reference plane is 
mean low water gives the largest margin of safety. 

Whichever plane of reference may be used for a chart, it must be 
remembered that there are times when the tide falls below it. Low 
water is lower than mean low water about half the time, and when a 
new or full moon occurs at perigee the low water is lower than the 
average low water of springs. At the equinoxes the spring range is 
also increased on the coasts of Europe, but in some other parts of the 
world, and especially in the Tropics, such periodic low tides may 
coincide more frequently with the solstices. 

Wind or a high barometer may at times cause the water to fall 
below even a very low plane of reference. 

On coasts where there is much diurnal inequality in the tides the 
amount of-rise and fall can not be depended upon, and additional 
caution is necessary. 

Mean sea level. —The important fact should be remembered that 
the depths at half tide are practically the same for all tides, whether 
neaps or springs. Half tide, therefore, corresponds with mean sea 
level. This makes a very exact plane of reference, easily found, to 
which it would be well to refer all high and low waters. 

The tide tables give, in Table 3, for all the ports, the plane of 
reference to which tidal heights are referred and its distance below 
mean sea level. 

If called on to take special soundings for the chart at a place where 
there is no tidal bench mark, mean sea level should be found and the 
plane for reductions established at the proper distance below it, as 
ascertained by the tide tables, or by observations, or in some cases, 
if the time be short, by estimation, the data used being made a part 
of the record. 


* The distinction between “rise” and “range” of the tide should be under¬ 
stood. The former expression refers to the height attained above the datum 
plane for soundings, differing with the different planes of reference; the 
latter, to the difference of level between successive high and low waters. 




14 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


Tidal streams. —In navigating coasts where the tidal range is 
considerable especial caution is necessary. It should be remembered 
that there are indrafts to all bays and bights, although the general 
run of the stream may be parallel with the shore. 

The turn of the tidal stream offshore is seldom coincident with the 
time of high and low water on the shore. In some channels the tidal 
stream may overrun the turn of the vertical movement of the tide by 
3 hours, forming what is usually known as tide and half tide, the 
effect of which is that at high and low water by the shore the stream 
is running at its greatest velocity. 

The effect of the tidal wave in causing currents may be illustrated 
by two simple cases: 

(1) Where there is a small tidal basin connected with the sea by 
a large opening. 

(2) Where there is a large tidal basin connected with the sea by a 
small opening. 

In the first case the velocity of the current in the opening will have 
its maximum value when the height of the tide within is changing 
most rapidly, i. e., at a time about midway between high and low 
water. The water in the basin keeps at approximately the same 
level as the water outside. The flood stream corresponds with the 
rising, and the ebb with the falling of the tide. 

In the second case the velocity of the current in the opening will 
have its maximum value when it is high water or low water without, 
for then there is the greatest head of water for producing motion. 
The flood stream begins about three hours after low water, and the 
ebb stream about three hours after high water, slack water thus 
occurring about midway between the tides. 

Along most shores not much affected by bays, tidal rivers, etc. ; the 
current usually turns soon after high water and low water. 

The swiftest current in straight portions of tidal rivers is usually 
in the middle of the stream, but in curved portions the most rapid 
current is toward the outer edge of the curve, and here the water will, 
be deepest. The pilot rule for best water is to follow the ebb tide 
reaches. 

Countercurrents and eddies may occur near the shores of straits, 
especially in bights and near points. A knowledge of them is useful 
in order that they may be taken advantage of or avoided. 

A swift current often occurs in a narrow passage connecting two 
large bodies of water, owing to their considerable difference of level 
at the same instant. The several passages between Vineyard sound 
and Buzzards bay are cases in point. In the Woods Hole passage 
the maximum strength of the tidal streams occurs near high and low 
water. 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


15 


Tide rips are made by a rapid current setting over an irregular 
bottom, as at the edges of banks where the change of depth is con¬ 
siderable. 

Current arrows on charts show only the most usual or the mean 
direction of a tidal stream or current; it must not be assumed that 
the direction of a stream will not vary from that indicated by the 
arrow. The rate, also, of a stream constantly varies with circum¬ 
stances, and the rate given on the chart is merely the mean of those 
found during the survey, possibly from very few observations. 

FIXING POSITION. 

Sextant method. —The most accurate method available to the 
navigator of fixing a position relative to the shore is by plotting 
with a protractor sextant angles between well-defined objects on the 
chart; this method, based on the “ three-point problem ” of geometry, 
should be in general use. 

For its successful employment it is necessary: First, that the ob¬ 
jects be well chosen; and, second, that the observer be skillful and 
rapid in his use of the sextant. The latter is only a matter of 
practice. 

Near objects should be used either for bearings or angles for 
position in preference to distant ones, although the latter may be 
more prominent, as a small error in the bearing or angle or in laying 
it on the chart has a greater effect in misplacing the position the 
longer the line to be drawn. 

On the other hand, distant objects should be used for direction 
because less affected by a small error or change of position. 

The three-arm protractor (station pointer of the British serv¬ 
ice) consists of a graduated brass circle with one fixed and two 
movable radial arms, the three beveled edges of the arms, if pro¬ 
duced, intersecting at the exact center of the instrument. The edge 
of the fixed arm marks the zero of the graduation which enables the 
movable arms to be set at any angles with the fixed arm. 

To plot a position, the two angles observed between the three 
selected objects are set on the instrument, which is then moved over 
the chart until the three beveled edges pass respectively and simul¬ 
taneously through the three objects. The center of the instrument 
will then mark the ship’s position, which may be pricked on the chart 
or marked with a pencil point through the center hole. 

The tracing-paper protractor, consisting of a graduated circle 
printed on tracing paper, is an excellent substitute for the brass 
instrument and in some cases preferable to it, as when, for instance, 
the objects angled on are so near the observer that they are more or 
less hidden by the circle of the instrument. The paper protractor 
also permits the laying down for simultaneous trial of a number of 


16 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


angles in cases of fixing important positions. Plain tracing paper 
may also be used if there are any suitable means of laying off the 
angles. 

The value of a determination depends greatly on the relative 
positions of the objects observed. If the position sought lies on the 
circle passing through the three objects (in which case the sum of 
the observed angles equals the supplement of the angle at the middle 
object made by lines from the other two) it will be indeterminate, as 
it will plot all around the circle. An approach to this condition 
must be avoided. Near objects are better than distant ones, and, in 
general, up to 90° the larger the angles the better, remembering 
always that large as well as small angles may plot on or near the 
circle and hence be worthless. If the objects are well situated, even 
very small angles will give for navigating purposes a fair position, 
when that obtained by bearings of the same objects would be of little 
value. 

Accuracy requires that the two angles be simultaneous. If under 
way and there is but one observer, the angle that changes less rapidly 
may be observed both before and after the other angle and the proper 
value obtained by interpolation. 

A single angle and a range give in general an excellent fix, easily 
obtained and plotted. 

Advantages of sextant method. —In war time, when the com¬ 
pass may be knocked away or rifle fire make it undesirable to expose 
the person more than necessary, a sextant offers great advantages, as 
angles can be obtained at any point where the objects are visible. 
This contingency makes it especially desirable that all navigating 
officers of men-of-war should become expert in this method of fixing 
a ship’s position. 

In many narrow waters, also, where the objects may yet be at 
some distance, as in coral harbors or narrow passages among mud 
banks, navigation by sextant and protractor is invaluable, as a true 
position can in general be obtained only by its means. Positions by 
bearings are too rough to depend upon, and a small error in either 
taking or plotting a bearing might under such circumstances put the 
ship ashore. 

In all cases where great accuracy of position is desired, such as the 
fixing of a rock or shoal or of fresh soundings or new buildings as 
additions to the chart, the sextant should invariably be used. In all 
such cases angles should be taken to several objects, the more the 
better; but five objects is a good number, as the four angles thus 
obtained not only prevent any errors, but they at once furnish a 
means of checking the accuracy of the chart itself. If a round of 
angles can be taken, the observer’s accuracy is also checked. In the 
case of ordinary soundings a third angle need be taken only occasion- 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 17 

ally; first, to check the general accuracy of the chart, as above stated; 
second, to make certain that the more important soundings, as at the 
end of a line, are correctly placed. 

If communication can be had with the shore, positions may be 
fixed with great accuracy by occupying with theodolite or sextant 
two known points of the chart. The third angle of the triangle, that 
between the two points at the position sought, should be measured as 
a check. 

The compass. —It is not intended that the use of the compass to 
fix the ship should be given up; in ordinary piloting the compass, 
with its companion, the alidade, may be more usefully employed for 
this purpose, although less accurate than the sextant. 

If the accuracy of the chart be doubtful, the compass should be 
used in preference to the sextant. 

In fixing by the compass it should always be remembered that the 
position by tw T o bearings only, like that by two angles only, is liable 
to error. An error may be made in taking a bearing, or in applying 
to it the deviation, or in laying it on the chart. A third or check 
bearing should, therefore, be taken of some other object, especially 
when near the shore or dangers. A common intersection for the 
three lines assures accuracy. 

Compass bearing and sextant angle. —When only two objects 
are visible, a compass bearing and a sextant angle may be used, and 
a better fix obtained than by two bearings. 

Doubling the angle on the bow. —The method of fixing by 
doubling the angle on the bow is invaluable. The ordinary form of 
it, the so-called u bow and beam bearing,” the distance from the object 
at the latter position being the distance run between the times of tak¬ 
ing the two bearings, gives the maximum of accuracy, and is an 
excellent fix for a departure, but does not insure safety, as the object 
observed and any dangers off it are abeam before the position is 
obtained. 

By taking the bearings at two points and four points on the bow, a 
fair position is obtained before the object is passed, the distance of 
the latter at the second position being, as before, equal to the distance 
run in the interval, allowing for current. Taking afterwards the 
beam bearing gives, with slight additional trouble, the distance of the 
object when abeam; such beam bearings and distances, with the 
times, should be continuously recorded as fresh departures, the im¬ 
portance of which will be appreciated in cases of being suddenly shut 
in by fog. 

A table of multipliers of the distance run in the interval between 
any two bearings of an object, the product being its distance at the 
time of the second bearing, is given in the light list and in Bowditch. 

50918—08-2 


18 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


Danger angle.— The utility of the danger angle in passing outly¬ 
ing rocks or dangers should not be forgotten. In employing the 
horizontal danger angle, however, caution is necessary, as, should 
the chart be inaccurate, i. e., should the objects selected be not quite 
correctly placed, the angle taken off from it may not serve the pur¬ 
pose. It should not, therefore, be employed when the survey is old 
or manifestly imperfect. 

The vertical danger angle may be conveniently used when passing 
elevated points of known heights, such as lighthouses, cliffs, etc. 
The computation of the distance corresponding to the height of the 
object and its angular elevation requires for small distances merely 
the solution of a plane right triangle; the natural cotangent of the 
angle multiplied by the height in feet gives the distance in feet. The 
convenient use of this method, however, requires tables such as those 
published by Captain Lecky in his little bool: entitled “The Danger 
Angle and Offshore Distance Tables.” 

This book very usefully extends the vertical angle method to find¬ 
ing a ship’s position at sea by observing the angular altitude of a 
peak of known height and its bearing. The tables give heights up to 
18,000 feet and distances up to 110 miles. When the angles are not 
too large they should be observed “on and off the limb” and the 
index error of the sextant thus eliminated, in preference to correct¬ 
ing for it the single altitude. It must be remembered that in high 
latitudes the bearing of a distant object needs correction for the 
convergence of the meridians before being laid down on a mercator 
chart. The correction may be found by the following formula, 
using the approximate position: The sine of the correction equals 
the product of the sine of half the difference of longitude by the sine 
of the middle latitude. It is applied on the equatorial side of the 
observed bearing, and its effect is always to increase the latitude of 
the observer. 

Soundings taken at random are of little value in fixing or check¬ 
ing position and may at times be misleading. In thick weather, when 
near or closing the land, soundings should be taken continuously and 
at regular intervals, and, with the character of the bottom, systemat¬ 
ically recorded. By laying the soundings on tracing paper, accord¬ 
ing to the scale of the chart, along a line representing the track of the 
ship, and then moving the paper over the chart parallel with the 
course until the observed soundings agree with those of the chart, the 
ship’s position will in general be quite well determined. This plan 
was suggested by Lord Kelvin, whose admirable sounding machine 
renders the operation of sounding possible in quite deep water with¬ 
out slowing down the ship and consequent loss of time. 

Dumb compass.— All ships should be supplied with the means of 
taking accurate bearings both by day and by night. The standard 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


19 


compass is not always conveniently placed for the purpose; in such 
case some species of alidade or dumb compass is of great importance. 
The utility of such an instrument in ascertaining the change of bear¬ 
ing of an approaching ship’s light should not be forgotten. 

Sumner’s method. —Among astronomical methods of fixing a 
ship’s position the great utility of Sumner’s method should be well 
understood, and this method should be in constant use. The Sumner 
line—that is, the line drawn through the two positions obtained by 
working the chronometer observation for longitude with two assumed 
latitudes, or by drawing through the position obtained with one lati¬ 
tude a line at right angles to the bearing of the body as obtained from 
the azimuth tables—gives at times invaluable information, as the ship 
must be somewhere on that line provided the chronometer is correct. 
If directed toward the coast, it marks the bearing of a definite point; 
if parallel with the coast the distance of the latter is shown. Thus 
the direction of the line may often be usefully taken as a course. A 
sounding at the same time with the observation may often give an 
approximate position on the line. A very accurate position can be 
obtained by observing two or more stars at morning or evening twi¬ 
light, at which time the horizon is well defined. The Sumner lines 
thus obtained wdll, if the bearings of the stars differ three points or 
t more, give an excellent result. A star or planet at twilight and the 
sun afterwards or before may be combined; also two observations of 
the sun with sufficient interval to admit of a considerable change of 
bearing. In these cases one of the lines must be moved for the run 
of the ship. The moon is often visible during the day and in combi¬ 
nation with the sun gives an excellent fix. 

The morning and evening twilight observations, besides their great 
accuracy, possess the additional advantage of greatly extending the 
ship’s reliable reckoning beyond the limits of the ordinary day navi¬ 
gation and correspondingly restricting the dead-reckoning uncertain¬ 
ties of the night. An early morning fix in particular is often of 
great value. 

Observations of the stars at night require the use of the star tele¬ 
scope in order to define the horizon. Though the same degree of 
accuracy as at twilight can not be expected, night observations are 
a very valuable dependence and should be assiduously practiced. 

Piloting.— The navigator, in making his plan for entering a 
strange port, should give very careful previous r;tudy to the chart 
and should carefully select what appear to be the most suitable 
marks for use, also providing himself with substitutes, to use in 
case those selected as most suitable should prove unreliable in not 
being recognized with absolute certainty. It must be remembered 
that buoys seen at a distance in approaching a channel are often 
difficult to place or identify, because all may appear equally distant, 


20 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


though in reality far apart. Ranges should be noted, if possible, 
and the lines drawn, both for leading through the best water in 
channels and also for guarding against particular dangers; for 
the latter purpose safety bearings should in all cases be laid down 
where no suitable ranges appear to offer. The courses to be steered 
in entering should also be laid down and distances marked thereon. 
If intending to use the sextant and danger angle in passing dangers, 
and especially in passing between dangers, the danger circles should 
be plotted and regular courses planned, rather than to run haphazard 
by the indications of the angle alone, with the possible trouble to be 
apprehended from wild steering at critical points. 

The alidade or dumb compass should invariably be mounted in 
entering or leaving port and kept faithfully set to the magnetic 
direction of the ship’s head, changing promptly with every change 
of course, so that the observed bearings may be magnetic, and there¬ 
fore ready for the chart without the necessity of waiting to apply 
corrections. The chart should be on the bridge in readiness for 
reference or use in plotting positions. 

The ship’s position should not be allowed to be in doubt at any 
time, even in entering ports considered safe and easy of access, and 
should be constantly checked, continuing to use for this purpose 
those marks concerning which there can be no doubt until others 
gradually and unmistakably declare themselves. 

The ship should ordinarily steer exact courses and follow an exact 
line, as planned from the chart, changing course at precise points, 
and, where the distances are considerable, her position on the line 
should be checked at frequent intervals, with recordings of time and 
patent log. This is desirable even where it may seem unnecessary 
for safety, because if running by the eye alone and the ship’s exact 
position be suddenly required, as in a sudden fog or squall, fixing at 
that particular moment may be attended with difficulty. 

The habit of running exact courses with precise changes of course 
will be found most useful when is is desired to enter port or pass 
through inclosed waters during fog by means of the buoys; here 
safety demands that the buoys be made successively, to do which 
requires, if the fog be dense, very accurate courses and careful atten¬ 
tion to the times , the patent log, and the set of the current; failure 
to make a buoy as expected leaves as a rule no safe alternative but to 
anchor at once, with perhaps a consequent serious loss of time. 

It is a useful point to remember that in passing between dangers 
where there are no suitable leading marks, as, for instance, between 
two islands or an island and the main shore, with dangers extending 
from both, a mid-channel course may be steered by the eye alone 
with great accuracy, as the eye is able to estimate very closely the 
direction midway between visible objects. 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


21 


In piloting among coral reefs or banks, a time should be chosen 
when the sun will be astern, conning the vessel from aloft or from an 
elevated position forward. The line of demarcation between the 
deep water and the edges of the shoals, which generally show as 
green patches, is indicated with surprising clearness. This method is 
of frequent application in the numerous passages of the Florida keys. 

Changes of course should in general be made by exact amounts, 
naming the new course or the amount of the change desired, rather 
than by ordering the helm to be put over and then steadying when 
on the desired heading, with the possibility of the attention being 
diverted and so of forgetting in the meantime, as may happen, that 
the ship is still swinging. The helmsman, knowing just what is 
desired and the amount of the change to be made, is thus enabled to 
act more intelligently and to avoid wild steering, which in narrow 
channels is a very positive source of danger. 

Coast piloting involves the same principles and requires that the 
ship’s position be continuously determined or checked as the land¬ 
marks are passed. On well-surveyed coasts there is a great ad¬ 
vantage in keeping near the land, thus holding on to the marks and 
the soundings, and thereby knowing at all times the position, rather 
than keeping offshore and losing the marks, with the necessity of 
again making the land from vague positions, and perhaps the added 
inconvenience of fog or bad weather, involving a serious loss of 
time and fuel. 

The route should be planned for normal conditions of weather, 
with suitable variations where necessary in case of fog or bad 
weather or making points at night, the courses and distances, in case 
of regular runs over the same route, being entered in a notebook for 
ready reference, as well as laid down on the chart. The danger 
circles for either the horizontal or the vertical danger angles should 
be plotted, wherever the method can be usefully employed, and the 
angles marked thereon; many a mile may thus be saved in rounding 
dangerous points, with no sacrifice in safety. Ranges should also be 
marked in, where useful for position or for safety, and also to use in 
checking the deviation of the compass by comparing, in crossing, 
the compass bearing of the range with its magnetic bearing, as given 
by the chart. 

Changes of course will in general be made with mark or object 
abeam, the position (a new “ departure ”) being then, as a rule, best 
and most easily obtained. The alidade, kept set to the ship’s mag¬ 
netic heading, should be at all times in readiness for use, and the 
chart where it may be readily consulted by the officer of the watch. 
The sextant should also be kept conveniently at hand. 

A continuous record of the progress of the ship should be kept by 
the officer of the watch, the time and patent log reading of all 


22 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


changes of course and of all bearings, especially the two and four 
point bearings, with distance of object when abeam, being noted in 
a book kept in the pilot house for this especial purpose. The ship’s 
reckoning is thus continuously cared for as a matter of routine and 
without the presence or particular order of the captain or navigating 
officer. The value of thus keeping the reckoning always fresh and 
exact will be especially appreciated in cases of sudden fog or when 
making points at night. 

Where the coastwise trip must be made against a strong head 
wind, it is desirable, with trustworthy charts, to skirt the shore as 
closely as possible in order to avoid the heavier seas and adverse 
current that prevail farther out. In some cases, with small ships, 
a passage can be made only in this way. The important saving of 
coal and of time, which is even more precious, thus effected by skill¬ 
ful coast piloting makes this subject one of prime importance to the 
navigator. 

Change in the variation of the compass. —The gradual change 
in the variation must not be forgotten in laying down on the chart 
courses and positions by bearings. The magnetic compasses placed 
on the charts for the purpose of facilitating the plotting become in 
time slightly in error, and in some cases, such as with small scales or 
when the lines are long, the displacement of position from neglect of 
this change may be of importance. The date of the variation and 
the annual change, as given on the compass rose, facilitate correc¬ 
tions when the change has been considerable. The compasses are 
reengraved when the error amounts to a degree. More frequent 
alterations on one spot in a copper plate would not be practicable. 

The geographical change in the variation is in some parts of the 
world so rapid as to need careful consideration, requiring a frequent 
change of the course. For instance, in approaching Halifax from 
Newfoundland the variation changes 10° in less than 500 miles. 

Local magnetic disturbance of the compass on board ship.— 
The term “ local magnetic disturbance ” has reference only to the 
effects on the compass of magnetic masses external to the ship. Ob¬ 
servation shows that disturbance of the compass in a ship afloat is 
experienced in only a few places on the globe. 

Magnetic laws do not permit of the supposition that the visible 
land causes such disturbance, because the effect of a magnetic force 
diminishes so rapidly with distance that it would require a local cen¬ 
ter of magnetic force of an amount absolutely unknown to affect a 
compass half a mile distant. 

Such deflections of the compass are due to magnetic minerals in 
the bed of the sea under the ship, and when the water is shallow and 
the force strong, the compass may be temporarily deflected when 
passing over such a spot; but the area of disturbance will be small 
unless there are many centers near together. 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


23 


The law which has hitherto been found to hold good as regards 
local magnetic disturbance is that north of the magnetic equator the 
north end of the compass needle is attracted and south of the mag¬ 
netic equator repelled by any center of disturbance. 

It is very desirable that whenever a ship passes over an area of 
local magnetic disturbance the position should be fixed, and the 
facts, as far as they can be ascertained, reported. 

Use of oil for modifying the effect of breaking waves.— 
Many experiences of late years have shown that the utility of oil for 
this purpose is undoubted and the application simple. 

The following may serve for the guidance of seamen, whose atten¬ 
tion is called to the fact that a very small quantity of oil skillfully 
applied may prevent much damage both to ships (especially of the 
smaller classes) and to boats by modifying the action of breaking 
seas. 

The principal facts as to the use of oil are as follows: 

1. On free waves, i. e., waves in deep water, the effect is greatest. 

2. In a surf, or waves breaking on a bar, where a mass of liquid is 
in actual motion in shallow water, the effect of the oil is uncertain, as 
nothing can prevent the larger waves from breaking under such cir¬ 
cumstances, but even here it is of some service. 

3. The heaviest and thickest oils are most effectual. Refined kero¬ 
sene is of little use; crude petroleum is serviceable when nothing else 
is obtainable; but all animal and vegetable oils, such as waste oil 
from the engines, have great effect. 

4. A small quantity of oil suffices, if applied in such a manner as 
to spread to windward. 

5. It is useful in a ship or boat, either when running, or lying-to, 
or in wearing. 

6. No experiences are related of its use when hoisting a boat at sea 
or in a seaway, but it is highly probable that much time would be 
saved and injury to the boat avoided by its use on such occasions. 

7. In cold water the oil, being thickened by the lower temperature 
and not being able to spread freely, will have its effect much reduced. 
This will vary with the description of oil used. 

8. For a ship at sea the best method of application appears to be to 
hang over the side, in such a manner as to be in the water, small 
canvas bags, capable of holding from 1 to 2 gallons of oil, the bags 
being pricked with a sail needle to facilitate leakage of the oil. 

The positions of these bags should vary with the circumstances. 
Running before the wind, they should be hung on either bow—e. g., 
from the cathead—and allowed to tow in the water. 

With the wind on the quarter the effect seems to be less than in 
any other position, as the oil goes astern while the waves come up on 
the quarter. 


24 


GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


Lying-to, the weather bow, and another position farther aft, seem 
the best places from which to hang the bags, using sufficient line to 
permit them to draw to windward while the ship drifts. 

9. Crossing a bar with a flood tide, to pour oil overboard and allow 
it to float in ahead of the boat, which would follow with a bag tow¬ 
ing astern, would appear to be the best plan. As before remarked, 
under these circumstances the effect can not be so much trusted. 

On a bar, with the ebb tide running, it would seem to be useless to 
try oil for the purpose of entering. 

10. For boarding a wreck, it is recommended to pour oil overboard 
to windward of her before going alongside. The effect in this case 
must greatly depend upon the set of the current and the circum¬ 
stances of the depth of water. 

11. For a boat riding in bad weather from a sea anchor, it is recom¬ 
mended to fasten the bag to an endless line rove through a block on 
the sea anchor, by which means the oil can be diffused well ahead of 
the boat and the bag readily hauled on board for refilling, if 
necessary. 


IXLUSTRATIOSTS ANTI) BRIEF REXES.* 

[In the illustrative figures , the flowing lines represent the spreading oil and 
the arrows denote the direction of the wind and sea.] 


Fig.l. Fig. 2. 



Scudding before a gale, Figure 1, 
distribute oil from the bow by means 
of oil bags or through waste pipes; 
it will thus spread aft and give pro¬ 
tection both from quartering and fol¬ 
lowing seas. 

If distributed only astern, Figure 
2, there will be no protection from 
the quartering sea. 


Fig. 3. Fig.4. 



Running before a gale, yawing 
badly and threatening to broach-to, 
Figures 3 and 4, oil should be distrib¬ 
uted from the bow and abaft the 
beam, on both sides. 

In Figure 3, for instance, where it 
is only distributed at the bow, the 
weather quarter is left unprotected 
when the ship yaws. 

In Figure 4, however, with oil bags 
abaft the beam as well as forward, 
the quarter is protected. 


*From prize essay of Capt. R. Karlowa, of Hamburg-American Steamship Co. 





















GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


25 


Fig. 5. Fig.6. 



Fig. 7. Fig. 8. 



Lying-to, Figure 5, a vessel can be 
brought closer to the wind by using 
one or two oil bags forward, to wind¬ 
ward. With a high beam sea, use oil 
bags along the weather side at inter¬ 
vals of 40 or 50 feet. 

In a heavy cross sea, Figure 6, as in 
the center of a hurricane, or after 
the center has passed, oil bags should 
be hung out at regular intervals along 
both sides. 



Steaming into a heavy head sea, 
Figure 9, use oil through forward 
closet pipes. Oil bags would be 
tossed back on deck. 

Lying-to, to tack or wear, Figure 
10, use oil from weather bow. 

Cracking on, with high wind abeam 
and heavy sea, Figure 11, use oil from 
waste pipes, weather bow. 


Drifting in the trough of a heavy 
sea, Figures 7 and 8, use oil from 
waste pipes forward and bags on 
weather side, as in Figure 8. 

These answer the purpose very 
much better than one bag at weather 
bow and one at lee quarter, although 
this has been tried with some success, 
see Figure 7. 


Fig-12. 



A vessel hove-to for a pilot, Figure 
12, should distribute oil from the 
weather side and lee quarter. The 
pilot boat runs up to windward and 
lowers a boat, which pulls down to 
leeward and around the vessel’s stern. 
The pilot boat runs down to leeward, 
gets out oil bags to windward and on 
her lee quarter, and the boat pulls 
back around her stern, protected by 
the oil. The vessels drift to leeward 
and leave an oil slick to windward, 
between the two. 




















































26 

Fig.13. 



GENERAL NAVIGATION. 


Fi&14. 




Towing a vessel in a heavy sea, oil is of the 
greatest service and may prevent parting the 
hawser. Distribute from the towing vessel, for¬ 
ward on both sides, Figure 13. If used only aft, 
the tow alone gets the benefit. 

At anchor in an open roadstead, use oil in 
bags from jib boom, or haul them out ahead of 
the vessel by means of an endless rope rove 
through a tail block secured to the anchor chain, 
Figure 14. 


















































CHAPTER I. 


CANADA AND THE EASTERN MARITIME PROVINCES, GENERAL RE¬ 
MARKS—GULF AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE-NAVIGATION- 

ICE-FOGS-WINDS-CURRENTS-TIDES AND TIDAL 

STREAMS-LIGHTS-BUOYS-SIGNAL STATIONS-TELE¬ 
GRAPH CABLES *-DOCKS-COAL-REPAIRS-PILOTS- 

NOVA SCOTIA BANKS-GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE GULF 

AND RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 

Canada. —The Dominion of Canada is a confederation of the colo¬ 
nies of British North America, and comprises the provinces of On¬ 
tario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward island, 
British Columbia, Manitoba, the Northwest and Yukon territories, 
besides Ungava; in fact, the whole of British North America, except 
Newfoundland and Labrador. It extends from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific; its area is estimated at 3,654,000 square miles, and its popula¬ 
tion was 5,338,883 in 1901. 

Climate. —The climate of Canada can not be described as a whole, 
for there are many climates. Not only do the several provinces and 
territories differ materially, but there are also great variations within 
most of the provinces themselves. -Generally, the climates in the 
localities near the oceans are milder and damper than in the interior. 
Throughout the greater part there are extremes of temperature in 
summer and winter, but in summer the nights are cool, and in winter 
the air is dry, bracing, and healthy. The range of the thermometer 
at Quebec in one year was 126°, or from 96° F. above to 30° F. below 
zero. 

The Eastern Maritime provinces—Ontario, the most populous 
and wealthy province of the Dominion, is bounded on the east by 
Quebec, on the north by James bay and the Albany and English 
rivers, on the west by Manitoba, and on the south by the St. Law¬ 
rence and the Great Lakes. Its area is 181,000 square miles, and the 
population in 1901 was 2,167,978. 

There "is only one large city, Toronto, which contains 207,971 in¬ 
habitants, but there are several smaller cities and towns; of these 
Ottawa, with a population of 59,902 inhabitants, is the capital of the 
Dominion. 

Products and trade. —Ontario is largely an agricultural country 
and its resources are very great, the province being rich in minerals. 

27 



28 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


The principal manufactures are agricultural implements, iron and 
wood ware, wagons and carriages, railway engines and rolling stock, 
cottons, woolens, paper, soap, etc. 

In 1902 the value of the exports, consisting of manufactured goods, 
agricultural products, animals and their products, timber and miner¬ 
als, was $48,597,480, and that of the imports was $86,232,560. 

Climate. —The climate is very diversified; in the southwestern part 
the winters are not severe, and the summers, owing to the tempering 
influence of the Great Lakes, are not oppressively hot; in the valleys 
of the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence the winters are moderately cold, 
but bracing and exhilarating. To the northward and northwestward 
of lake Superior the winters are long and cold, with at times ex¬ 
tremely low temperatures. 

Quebec, a province of the Dominion, lies eastward of Ontario; it 
is bounded on its southern and eastern sides by the United States, 
New Brunswick, Chaleur bay, the gulf of St. Lawrence, and Lab¬ 
rador. The province comprises Anticosti and the Magdalen islands. 
Its area is 347,000 square miles and the population in 1901 was 
1,620,974. The principal cities are Quebec, the great seaport town of 
Canada, and Montreal, the commercial metropolis, and the chief 
center of the grain trade northward of New York. 

Products and trade. —The land is very fertile and produces all 
cereals and wheat crops in abundance, as well as fruit, which grows 
luxuriantly, grapes, melons, peaches, and tomatoes maturing in the 
open. Cheese is largely exported. The lumber trade is extensive and 
manufactures of hardware and textile fabrics are largely carried on. 
The fisheries in the river and gulf St. Lawrence are very prolific, and 
the smaller rivers teem with fish. 

On the north shore of the gulf of St. Lawrence the people generally 
obtain a livelihood from cod and seal fisheries, and from furs pro¬ 
cured in the interior. 

On both sides of the river, as far west as Metis on the south and 
Tadoussac on the north shore, the inhabitants are principally fisher¬ 
men, owning small farms. 

In the year ending June 30, 1902, the value of the exports of 
the province, consisting chiefly of manufactured goods, timber, ani¬ 
mals and their products, and agricultural and dairy produce, was 
$91,057,201, and that of imports was $82,014,443. 

Climate. —The climate is generally dry and healthy. It varies 
from the cold but bracing winters and the long warm summers of the 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa valleys to the long cold winters and the 
short cool summers of that portion of the province lying northward 
of the Height of Land. 

The normal percentage of sunshine at Montreal is 46. 


NOVA SCOTIA-CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


29 


Nova Scotia, originally Acadia, a province of the Dominion, con¬ 
sists of a peninsula and Cape Breton island, which is separated from 
the main by the gut of Canso. Its extreme length is 350 miles and 
breadth about 120 miles, with an entire area of 20,907 square miles, 
about J part of which consists of lakes, rivers, and inlets of the sea. 
Its population in 1901 was 459,116. 

Nova Scotia is connected with New Brunswick by an isthmus only 
10 miles in width. It is bounded on the north by Northumberland 
strait (which separates it from Prince Edward island) and the gulf 
of St. Lawrence; northeast, southeast, and south by the Atlantic 
ocean; west by the bay of Fundy, and northwest by New Brunswick. 

PToducts and trade. —Agriculture and horticulture are among 
the principal industries in the province. Rye, oats, barley, Indian 
corn, potatoes, tomatoes, and all root crops grow in abundance; but 
wheat is not cultivated to any great extent. Apples and other fruits 
attain great perfection. Cottons and woolens are manufactured, and 
there are steel works at New Glasgow. There are also paper mills, 
sugar refineries, boot factories, agricultural and other machinery fac¬ 
tories, and many sawmills. Mining is extensively carried on. Up¬ 
ward of 1,500,000 tons of coal are mined annually, the principal mines 
being at Pictou and Springhill. Other minerals are abundant, in¬ 
cluding tin, silver, manganese, gypsum, slates, etc. 

The fisheries of Nova Scotia are very important, the waters abound¬ 
ing with mackerel, cod, herring, shad, salmon, halibut, haddock, 
lobsters, etc. 

The chief exports are fish products, minerals, lumber, agricultural 
products, and general manufactures. 

In the year ending June 30, 1902, the value of the exports (in¬ 
cluding Cape Breton island) was $14,978,222, and of the imports 
$12,510,752. 

Cape Breton island is of an irregular triangular shape; on its 
western coast the only harbor is Port Hood, but its other sides are 
rugged and indented with numerous bays. An inlet, the Bras d’Or, 
enters the northeastern side of the island and forms a lake some 45 
miles long, which is continued by a ship canal to St. Peter bay, on the 
southern coast; being deep enough for large vessels, it affords great 
facilities for commerce. The island, which formed a separate colony 
until 1819, and was in that year incorporated with Nova Scotia, has 
an area of 3,125 miles. The population in 1901 numbered 97,193. 

Thfe chief towns are Sydney, North Sydney, and Glace bay. 

Products. —The principal exports of the island are timber, fish, 
iron ore, and coal. Oats, wheat, turnips, and potatoes are extensively 
cultivated; horses, cattle, and sheep are reared, and cheese and butter 
produced. The chief coal mines are near Sydney, and at Cow and 
Glace bays. 


30 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Numerous fresh and salt water fish are found, and the fishery em¬ 
ploys about 3,000 men. 

Climate. —The climate of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton island is 
healthy and milder than that of any other part of the Dominion, the 
average temperature being 65° in the summer and 25° in the winter, 
but the range is from 96° above to 32° below zero. The average an¬ 
nual rainfall is 38 inches, and the snowfall 75 inches, evenly dis¬ 
tributed. Fogs are frequent on the coasts, but they do not extend far 
inland. 

New Brunswick, a province of the Dominion, is bounded on the 
north and northwest by the province of Quebec, from which it is 
separated by the river Restigouche; on the north by Chaleur bay; on 
the east by the gulf of St. Lawrence and Northumberland strait; on 
the south by the bay of Fundy and part of Nova Scotia; and on the 
west by the State of Maine. Its area is about 27,105 square miles, 
and its population in 1901 was 331,093. 

New Brunswick was settled by the French in 1604 and was ceded 
to Great Britain in 1763; it was first colonized by British subjects 
in 1764. 

Products and trade. —The chief industry in New Brunswick is 
agriculture; and about one and a quarter million acres are under 
cultivation. Wheat, Indian corn, barley, buckwheat, and oats are 
the principal cereals raised; fruit and vegetables are largely grown; 
attention has been given to live stock. Coal is mined principally by 
farmers when other work is slack; the coal produced in 1900 w T as 
10,000 tons. Antimony, iron, gypsum, and plumbago are found; 
112,294 tons of gypsum were produced in 1900. A great portion of 
the country is covered by dense forests, and cutting and exporting 
pine and spruce timber afford much employment. The fisheries, 
both sea and river, are extensive, and some of the finest salmon fish¬ 
ing in the world is to be had. Shipbuilding is carried on to a con¬ 
siderable extent. 

The chief exports are fish, timber, coal, iron, gypsum, manganese, 
and hay. The imports are flour, salt meat, coffee, tea, sugar, molasses, 
and fruit; also woolen, cotton, and silk goods. In the year ended 
June 30, 1901, the exports were valued at $14,886,454, and the im¬ 
ports at $6,741,848. 

Climate. —The climate, though subject to extremes, is healthy. 
The average mean temperature in summer is 60°, and in winter 19°, 
but it ranges from 82° above to 11° below zero. The average annual 
rainfall is 32 inches, and the snowfall 99 inches, the latter extend¬ 
ing from November to April, inclusive. 

Prince Edward island, a province of the Dominion, is situated in 
the gulf of St. Lawrence, and is separated from Nova Scotia and 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-ONTARIO AND QUEBEC. 31 

New Brunswick by Northumberland strait. The greatest length of 
the island is 102 miles; and its eastern part is about 30 miles broad, 
but the breadth is rendered extremely irregular by large bays, inlets, 
and rivers, which penetrate the island so that no part of it is distant 
more than 7 to 8 miles from navigable water. The area of the island 
is 2,133 square miles. The population in 1901 amounted to 103,258 
inhabitants. 

Charlottetown, the capital, had a population of 12,080 in 1901; the 
other towns are Georgetown, Summerside, and Souris. 

Products and trade. —The inhabitants are almost exclusively 
engaged in agriculture and the breeding of horses and sheep; consid¬ 
erable attention, however, is devoted to the fisheries on the north coast. 

The export trade of the island consists chiefly of agricultural prod¬ 
uce and small quantities of lumber. There are factories for canning 
and preserving fish and meat. The total value of the exports from 
Prince Edward island in 1902 amounted to $801,013; and of the 
imports to $643,829. 

Climate. —The climate is less severe than in the neighboring prov¬ 
inces ; not quite so cold in winter, nor so hot in summer, being tem¬ 
pered by the sea breezes; but the advance of spring is checked by 
northerly winds which drive ice down the gulf, so that Northumber¬ 
land strait is sometimes filled with ice until the middle of May, and 
the outbreak of vegetable life is frequently retarded till June is well 
advanced; there is seldom any settled weather before July. 

Physical features and geology—Ontario and Quebec. —The 
surface of the country of the provinces of Ontario and Quebec is 
varied, consisting of extensive lakes and rivers, large areas of agri¬ 
cultural land, and immense forests. One of the most striking fea¬ 
tures of the province of Ontario and the northern part of that of 
Quebec is the great Laurentian range, formed of very ancient crys¬ 
talline rocks, which occupies the Labrador peninsula, and spreading 
round the southern end of Hudson bay extends northwestward 
through the continent. It forms the watershed between Hudson bay 
and the St. Lawrence, and its average height is about 1,500 feet above 
the sea, but it is considerably higher where it fronts the Atlantic; 
elsewhere it is lower. Over it generally there are very numerous 
lakes, ponds, and winding streams. Where not wooded its surface 
often consists largely of rock masses, chiefly granites and gneisses, 
referable to the Laurentian system, with crystalline schists of the 
Huronian, and occasional outliers of Cambrian. 

Another feature is the immense chain of fresh-water lakes, the area 
of those connected with the St. Lawrence system alone being about 
90,000 square miles. 


32 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


In the provinces of Ontario and Quebec, the principal rivers, next 
to the St. Lawrence, are the Ottawa, its chief tributary, and the 
Saguenay, which drains lake St. John into the St. Lawrence. 

Ontario and Quebec are generally well wooded, and mines, particu¬ 
larly of gold, are worked in some of the tracts characterized by the 
Huronian rocks. Copper, asbestos, and iron are found. 

The plain of the St. Lawrence valley extends westward from the 
city of Quebec to lake Huron, and this is the greatest area of arable 
land in Eastern Canada. It lies northwestward of the Notre Dame 
ranges, northward of lakes Ontario and Erie, and southward of the 
Laurentian range. It is underlaid by nearly horizontal and undis¬ 
turbed rocks, mainly limestones. Petroleum and natural gas occur 
in the rocks underlying this plain in Ontario, but there are scarcely 
any metalliferous deposits. In this region the soil is very fertile, and 
it contains the largest centers of population. 

The maritime provinces of Eastern Canada southward of the 
St. Lawrence, including Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward 
island, and the southeastern part of Quebec, which are very irregular 
in shape and have an extended coast-line in the Atlantic and the gulf 
of St. Lawrence, may be regarded as a northern continuation of the 
Appalachian mountains of the United States. 

Nova Scotia. —From cape Canso a range of high lands, which 
does not attain the height of mountains, runs in a sweep through 
Nova Scotia to cape Sable. Cobequid range, running parallel with 
the preceding range along the northern part of the province from 
cape Porcupine, in the gut of Canso, to cape Chignecto, in the bay of 
Fundy, reaches heights of 1,100 feet. 

Its summits are of crystalline, granitoid, and syenitic masses, and 
are covered with valuable timber, while in the intervening depres¬ 
sions agricultural products grow luxuriantly. Between these parallel 
ranges is a wide and fertile valley. Valuable coal fields occur on part 
of the coasts in the gulf of St. Lawrence, and metalliferous ores of 
various kinds are found. 

Cape Breton island. —In this island there are several ranges of 
hills, and the northern promontory is a plateau which rises to the 
height of 1,200 feet. The prevailing rocks belong to the carboniferous 
system, interrupted in places by igneous or metamorphic rocks. Coal, 
limestone, gypsum, iron, and slate are found, and salt springs exist. 

New Brunswick. —The province of New Brunswick exhibits 
alternately parallel ridges with wide intervening areas of nearly flat 
Silurian and carboniferous rocks. The ridge of greatest elevation and 
extent traverses the northern part of the province from Chaleur bay 
to the state of Maine, and it reaches heights of 1,200 to 2,000 feet, with 
higher individual peaks. 


COMMUNICATION. 


33 


The carboniferous rocks occupy a large area, but the coal seams, so 
far developed, are thin and unimportant. Mineral ores of various 
kinds are found. It is well watered, rivers, lakes, and bays are 
numerous, and there are extensive tracts of good arable land. 

Quebec—Southeastern part.—Notre Dame mountains run 
through the southeastern part of Quebec and terminate in Gaspe 
peninsula as Shickshoc mountains. Notre Dame range seldom ex¬ 
ceeds 1,500 feet in height. The whole of Gaspe peninsula may be 
considered a block of table-lands, about 1,500 feet in height, in which 
the river courses are deep and narrow excavations. Rising from this, 
Shickshoc mountains are a conspicuous range of high lands, extending 
about 05 miles from the Matane to the eastern side of Ste. Anne des 
Monts. They stand on a breadth of 2 to 0 miles at a distance of about 
12 miles from the St. Lawrence, and rise into points, attaining heights 
of 3,000 to 4,000 feet. The country connected with these ranges 
presents a rolling rather than a rugged mountainous surface, and for 
the most part is capable of tillage or pasturage. 

Prince Edward island.—This island is undulating, and its high¬ 
est part does not exceed 500 feet above the sea; it is in general much 
lower, especially near the coast. It is based on permo-carboniferous 
and triassic rocks affording a red and very fertile soil, much of which 
is under cultivation. Cliffs of red sandstone prevail on its coasts, 
except on the north side where long ranges of sand hills and sand 
bars have been thrown up bv the sea. 

Communication.—Steamship lines running from Canadian ports: 


Line. 


Ports from- 


Sailings. 


Summer. 


Winter. 


Port to— 


Summer. 


Allan line. Montreal and St. John and 

Quebec. Halifax. 

Allan line. Montreal and Halifax and 

Quebec. | Portland. 

Montreal and . 

Quebec. 

Montreal and St. John and 
Quebec. Halifax. 

Halifax. Halifax. 


Allan line. 

Allan line. 

Canada-Jamaica — 


Liverpool. 
Glasgow.. 
London... 


Cherbourg or 
Havre. 

Santiago de Cuba, 
Habana, Kings¬ 
ton, and outports, 
Jamaica 


Weekly. 

Weekly. 

Fortnightly. 

Fortnightly. 

T w i c e a 
month. 


Winter. 


Canada-South Afri- 

Montreal and 

St. John and 

Capetown, East 

Monthly.... 

can line. 

Quebec. 

Halifax. 

London, Port 
Elizabeth, Dur¬ 
ban. 

Rotterdam. 


Canadian Ocean 

Montreal and 

Portland. 

Fortnightly. 

and Inland line. 

Canadian Pacific 
Railway; Atlan¬ 
tic lines. 

Canadian Pacific 
Railway; Atlan¬ 
tic lines. 

Canadian Pacific 
Railway; Atlan¬ 
tic lines. 

Canadian Pacific 
Railway; Atlan¬ 
tic lines. 

Quebec. 
Montreal . 

St. John. 

Liverpool . 

Weeklv. 

Montreal. 

MnntrPiil 

St. John. 

Bristol. 

Weeklv. 

St. John. 

London . 

Every ten 
days. 

Weekly. 

Montreal and 
Quebec. 

St. John. 

Antwerp.. 





Weekly. 

Weekly. 


Twice a 
month. 


Monthly. 

Fortnightly. 

Weekly. 

Fortnightly. 


Every ten 
days. 

Fortnightly 


5091S—OS-3 
















































34 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Line. 

Ports from— 

Port to— 

Saili 

Summer. 

Winter. 

Summer. 

Dominion line. 

Dominion line. 

Montreal and 
Quebec. 
Montreal and 
Quebec. 
Montreal and 
Quebec. 

St. John. 

Halifax and 
Portland. 
Portland. 

S f John 

Liverpool . 

Bristol. 

Glasgow. 

Weeklv. 

Fortnightly 

Weekly. 

Eastern Steamship 

St. John. 

Eastport, Portland. 

Dailv. 

company. 

Furness line 

Halifax. 

Halifax. 

and Boston. 

St. John’s, New¬ 
foundland. 

Havre. 

Fortnightly 


Halifax. 

St. John and 
Halifax. 

Halifax. 

St. John and 
Halifax. 

Monthly- 


London . 

Weeklv. 



Every ten 

Furness-Allan line . 

Hamburg-Amer- 
iean line. 

Hansa-St. Law¬ 
rence line. 
Headline. 

Halifax. 

Halifax. 

Liverpool, via St. 
John’s, N e w - 
foundland. 
Hamburg. 

Antwerp. 

Montreal and 
Quebec. 
Montreal and 


days. 

Every ten 
days. 

Fortnight! v 

Quebec. 
Montreal and 

St. John and 

Belfast and Dublin. 

Weekly. 

T.eyland line 

Quebec. 
Montreal and 

Halifax. 
Portland. 

Antwerp. 

Fortnightly 

Ley land line 

Quebec. 
Quebee. . 


London . 

Fortnightly 

Lord line 

Montreal and 


Cardiff. 

Monthly.... 

Manchester line.... 

. Quebec. 
Montreal and 

St. John and 

Manchester. 

Weekly. 

Pickfordand Black. 

Quebec. 
Halifax and 

Halifax. 
Halifax and 

West Indian ports .. 

Fortnightly 

Plant line . 

St. John. 
Halifax 

St. John. 
Halifax .1 _ 

Boston. 

T wice a 

Plant line. 

Halifax. 

Halifax. 

St.Pierre, Miquelon. 
New York. 

week. 

Fortnightly 

Bed Cross line 

Halifax . 

Halifax. 

Every ten 

Th mn son line 

Montreal and 
Quebec. 

Montreal and 

Port’ a n d 

London . 

days. 

Weeklv. 

Thomson line 


Leith. 

Fortnightly 

Monthly.... 

Thomson line. 

Quebec. 

Montreal and 


Aberdeen. 


Quebec. 




Winter. 


Weekly. 

Fortnightly. 

Weekly. 

Twice a 
week. 

Fortnightly. 

Monthly. 

Weekly. 

Every ten 
days. 


Fortnightly. 

Fortnightly 

Fortnightly. 

Fortnightly. 

Twice a 
week. 

Fortnightly. 
Every ten 
days. 
Weekly. 


The North-Western Steamship company run steamers frequently 
from Chicago, via the Welland canal and St. Lawrence river, to Ham¬ 
burg, Liverpool, and London during the open season. 

During the open season steamers of the Black Diamond line afford 
weekly communication between Montreal, Quebec, Pictou, Charlotte¬ 
town, Sydney, Cape Breton island, and St. John's, Newfoundland, 
and there is regular communication between the ports of Nova Scotia, 
Prince Edward island, New Brunswick, and Quebec. Steamers 
of the Quebec Steamship company run fortnightly from Quebec to 
Summerside, Charlottetown and Pictou; those of the Gaspe line run 
fortnightly from Quebec to Gaspe, calling at all the ports on the 
south shore of the lower St. Lawrence. Vessels of the North Shore 
Steamship line run every ten days from Quebec to the ports on the 
north shore eastward to Eskimo point. Steamers run three times a 
week between Sydney, Cape Breton island, and Port Basque, New¬ 
foundland, connecting with the railways. In summer the Canadian 
Pacific Railway company runs steamers from Owen sound, in Geor¬ 
gian bay, lake Huron, to Port Arthur, lake Superior. 

Communication between the Prince Edward Island railroad and the 
Intercolonial railroad is afforded in summer by steamer between Sum- 
























































































RAILROADS. 


35 


merside and point du Chene, between Charlottetown and Pictou, and 
between Georgetown and Pictou; and in winter by specially built 
steamers between Georgetown and Pictou, and between Charlotte¬ 
town and Pictou. There is also further provision made for commu¬ 
nication by ice boats from cape Traverse; these cross the strait to cape 
Tormentine, on the mainland, a distance of about 9 miles. 

Railroads. —The principal railroad systems in Cspiada are the 
Intercolonial, Canadian Pacific, and Grand Trunk. 

The Intercolonial is a government line affording communication 
between Montreal and Quebec and the chief towns on the southern 
shore of the St. Lawrence, below Quebec, and those on the western. 
shore of the gulf. It touches at six Atlantic ocean and St. Lawrence 
gulf ports, namely, point du Chene, Pictou, Halifax, St. John, Syd- 
ne}L and North Sydney. The distance by this line from Sydney to 
Montreal is 990 miles; its total length is 1,300 miles. 

A ferry ice-breaking steamer takes the trains across the gut of 
Canso. 

The Canadian Pacific system has its eastern terminus at St. John, 
New Brunswick, and its western terminus at the city of Vancouver, 
British Columbia. The transcontinental line passes through Mon¬ 
treal, Ottawa, Winnipeg, and the principal towns en route. Quebec 
and Montreal are connected by a line on the north side of the St. 
Lawrence. A line also runs from Montreal to Windsor, Ontario, 
passing through Toronto and the chief towns between; and a branch 
runs from Toronto to Owen sound, Georgian bay, lake Huron. There 
are numerous other branches, and the total length of the line is 6,871 
miles. The distance by this railroad from Montreal to Vancouver 
is 2,906 miles. 

The Grand Trunk system has its eastern terminus at Portland, in 
the State of Maine, and its western Canadian termini at Sarnia and 
AVindsor, where connections are made with the United States rail¬ 
roads. It touches at Quebec and Montreal; above Montreal it passes 
along the north shore of the St. Lawrence river, and the north shores 
of lakes Ontario and Erie, and has stations at Toronto and the prin¬ 
cipal towns. It has many branches in the western part of the prov¬ 
ince of Ontario. The total length of the line is 3,153 miles. 

The Canada Atlantic line has its western terminus at Parry sound, 
Georgian bay, lake Huron, and it runs eastward through Ottawa. 
It is used almost entirely for freight, carrying the grain, which is 
taken from the western and northwestern districts, to Parry sound 
by steamers. There is also a railroad from Quebec to lake St. John, 
Avhence a branch runs to Chicoutimi. 

The lines in Prince Edward island run from Souris to Tignish 
with branches from mount Stewart to Georgetown, Charlottetown 
to Royalty junction, and Emerald junction to cape Traverse. The 


36 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


total length is 211 miles. There are also numerous other railroads 
in Canada with a length altogether, in 1906, of 20.700 miles. The 
railroad distances are in statute miles. 

Telegraph. —All the towns and nearly all the villages in the 
Dominion are connected by telegraph. Government lines also extend 
along the north shore of the river and gulf St. Lawrence to 
Chateau bay and Belle isle; to Anticosti, where it runs along the 
southern and eastern coasts of that island; to'the Magdalen islands, 
and St. Paul island. x 

There are 31,218 statute miles of land telegraph lines owned and 
operated by public companies; the government owns 6,590 statute 
miles of land lines and 344 miles of cables. 

The telephone is in general use in the more settled parts. 

Waterways, sledge. —There are six important systems of gov¬ 
ernment canals affording, with the river St. Lawrence connections, 
magnificent inland communications. The total length of canals 
proper open is 262J miles. The natural waterways still remain im¬ 
portant factors in the transportation of the country. During the 
winter the settlements on the northern shore of the gulf and the 
lower part of St. Lawrence estuary are isolated, and the only com¬ 
munication, excepting perhaps by telegraph, is by sledge or dog train 
to the nearest railway station. 

Standard time. —The mean time of the meridian of 60° W. longi¬ 
tude, or 4 hours slow of Greenwich mean time, is adopted as standard 
time in Nova Scotia and Prince Edward island, and that of the 
meridian of 75° W. longitude, or 5 hours slow of Greenwich mean 
time, in New Brunswick, Quebec, and Ontario. 

The mean time of the meridian of 60° W. longitude is known as 
Atlantic standard time, and that of 75° W. as Eastern standard time. 

Money. —The dollar of 100 cents. The value of the money of the 
United Kingdom is fixed by law as follows: £1 is equal to $4.86; 
crown, $1.20; the half crown, florin, shilling, and sixpence at propor¬ 
tionate rates. The Dominion has no gold coinage, but the English 
sovereign and the United States gold eagle of $10 with multiples 
and halves are legal. Notes are issued by the government for $4, $2, 
and $1.25. No bank is allowed to issue notes of less than $5. 

Weights and measures. —Legal weights and measures are the 
imperial yard, imperial pound avoirdupois, imperial gallon, and 
imperial bushel. 

The hundredweight is 100 pounds and the ton 2,000 pounds avoir¬ 
dupois, as in the United States. 

Holidays.— The public holidays in the Dominion of Canada gen¬ 
erally are New Year’s day, Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Easter 
Monday, H. B. M. the late Queen Victoria’s birthday, Dominion day, 
Thanksgiving day (usually in November), and Christmas day. 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


87 


The Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

I lie gulf of St, Lawrence is an irregularly shaped inland sea 
inclosed on its northern and southwestern sides by Canadian terri¬ 
tory, and on its eastern side by Newfoundland. Its area is 101,56*2 
square miles. 

Cabot strait, its principal entrance, lying between Cape Breton 
island and Newfoundland, is 55 miles wide; while Belle Isle strait, 
by which it communicates with the Atlantic at its northeastern end, 
is about 10 miles wide. It is also connected with the ocean by the gut 
of Canso, which separates Nova Scotia from Cape Breton island, 
and has a width of less than half a mile. 

Cape Breton island forms the southeastern side of the gulf; St. 
Paul island is in Cabot strait ; and the gulf contains the Magdalen 
group, Prince Edward island, and Anticosti. 

The St. Lawrence River system, under the name St. Louis river, rises 
near the source of the Mississippi and the Red rivers, and flows into 
lake Superior, the surface of which is 60*2 feet above the sea; thence 
it is joined by St. Mary’s river to lake Huron. Below lake Huron, 
which receives the waters of lake Michigan from the south, it flows, 
at about the same level, by St. Clair river and lake and Detroit river 
into lake Erie, whence the river Niagara descends 326 feet to lake 
Ontario, which is 247 feet above the sea. The St. Lawrence river 
proper issues from lake Ontario and flows northeastward for some 
750 miles, presenting the character, first, of a river with a number of 
lakelike expansions, and then of an estuary down to the gulf. Be¬ 
tween lake Ontario and tylontreal there are several rapids, which 
vessels avoid by means of canals. 

The northern shores of the gulf of St. Lawrence are absolutely 
sterile, but toward the river vegetation becomes abundant and dense 
forests cover the hills, extending, with occasional intervals on the 
north shore, to cape Tourmente, near Quebec. 

That part of the river between point de Monts and Quebec is 
known as the lower St. Lawrence, and that between Quebec and Mon¬ 
treal, at the head of the deep-draft ocean navigation, as the St. Law¬ 
rence river. 

Navigation. —The navigation of the gulf and river St. Lawrence, 
from the varying tidal streams and currents, the severity of the cli¬ 
mate, especially toward the close of the navigable season, and, above 
all, the frequent fogs, necessitates the exercise of great vigilance, pru¬ 
dence, and ability. 

In thick weather continuous soundings are necessary for safety, 
and when near the land the speed should be slow. Vessels navigating 
the gulf and river should be provided with a sounding machine, by 
which deep-water soundings may be obtained accurately and fre¬ 
quently. 


38 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Investigations have shown that the strandings in the gulf and river 
St. Lawrence and the approaches, including the coast of Newfound¬ 
land, are owing not to the dangers of the route but to the want of care 
and attention to navigation. 

Magnetic variation. —It must be borne in mind that the magnetic 
variation differs about 22° between the limits of the places described 
in this work; thus the variation of Belle isle will be 35J°, at Quebec 
17J°, and at Montreal 13|° westerly, in the year 1910. ^ 

The variation changes particularly rapidly between Belle Isle strait 
and Anticosti, and the wrecks, which were formerly frequent on the 
eastern part of Anticosti in foggy weather, were doubtless due to this 
change not being allowed for. 

The variation is decreasing about 2 minutes annually at the strait 
of Belle Isle; it is nearly stationary at Cape Breton island; and it is 
increasing about 3 minutes annually at Quebec. 

The deviation of the compass should be ascertained when ap¬ 
proaching and navigating the gulf, as the large angle of the magnetic 
dip and the small horizontal force in this region will probably cause 
the deviation to be different from that determined in other places. 
This applies to both corrected and uncorrected compasses; the change 
in a corrected compass being largely dependent on the suitability of 
the correctors, viz, magnets or soft iron, and in an uncorrected com¬ 
pass on the suitability of its position, as regards the surrounding iron, 
especially vertical iron. 

Local magnetic disturbance. —An opinion is prevalent that the 
compasses of vessels are locally disturbed in the gulf and river, and 
such disturbance has been attributed to magnetic ores of iron in the 
hills, particularly those of the north shore. Magnetic oxide of iron 
does exist abundantly, and attracts the needle of a compass placed on 
shore very powerfully at some points, particularly along the shore 
eastward of Seven Islands bay. Among the Mingan islands the 
variation was found to vary from this cause from 19° to 31° West. 
At Portneuf and Manikuagan point the needle was also disturbed. 
Although it is not possible that the disturbing forces here described 
can extend to ships navigating off the coasts of the above-mentioned 
places, areas of disturbances may exist at the bottom of the adjoining 
seas, producing small disturbances in ships when in shallow water. 
Actual experiences of this kind have occurred, but they are not com¬ 
mon. In deep water—that is, in depths exceeding 50 fathoms—no 
effect has been observed. Care must be used to prevent accidents from 
these disturbances. 

Ice. —During spring and autumn the navigation of the gulf is ren¬ 
dered difficult by ice, and navigation is entirely closed during the 
winter. In spring, generally until May and sometimes until early in 


ICE. 


39 


June, parts of the gulf are usually covered with drift ice, and vessels 
are sometimes beset in it for many days. If unprepared for meeting 
ice they often suffer from it and are occasionally lost, but serious acci¬ 
dents from this cause do not frequently occur, as the ice is then gen¬ 
erally more or less in a melting state from the effect of the sun and 
warmer winds. In autumn, accidents from ice seldom happen, ex¬ 
cept when winter commences unusually early or when vessels have 
lingered imprudently late. 

Cabot strait is never frozen completely over, but vessels not spe¬ 
cially built to encounter ice can not navigate it safely between Janu¬ 
ary and April, inclusive, on account of the heavy drift ice which 
blocks the strait, more especially when the ice forms the Bridge. Seal¬ 
ing steamers attempt the strait at all times, but are occasionally fast 
in the ice for days together. There is often difficulty in getting- 
through the inner part of the strait. 

The Bridge. —Nearly every year, in the spring, or from about the 
middle of April to the middle of May, there is a great rush of ice 
out of the gulf, causing a block between St. Paul island and cape Ray. 
This block, which sometimes lasts for three weeks and completely pre¬ 
vents the passage of ships, is known as the Bridge. It is recorded 
that 300 vessels have at one time been detained by this obstacle, and 
in consequence many wrecks have occurred on the coast of New¬ 
foundland. 

Ice from the gulf is generally met with in Cabot strait early in Jan¬ 
uary. At this time it is thin, but it increases gradually to as much as 
I feet in thickness. Occasionally small bergs, some IS feet in height, 
are seen, although a large berg is seldom visible. Ice may flow 
through till May, or even till the beginning of June, according to the 
season. 

A prevalence of northwesterly and northerly winds drives the ice 
toward the strait and along the west coast of cape Breton, when in¬ 
coming vessels meet no ice except southwestward of St. Paul island. 
A southwesterly gale occasionally takes the ice out between Magdalen 
islands and Caj^e Breton island, when it meets the main body flowing 
past Bird rocks and closes the strait between St. Paul island and 
cape Anguille. Winds between northeast and south open the New¬ 
foundland coast, and the strait often clears quickly with winds be¬ 
tween northwest and northeast, so that in about 36 hours very little 
ice may be visible from cape Ray, but quantities of ice pass through 
for many days after navigation is open, particularly with northerly 
winds. 

The ice usually passes out of the strait in the direction of Ban- 
quereau bank, the eastern edge extending half way between Scatari 
and St. Pierre island. Its path broadens when through the strait, and 


40 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


is principally governed by the winds, but under the influence of the 
current alone the ice drifts southwestward, and in latitude 45° N. 
may be from 10 to 75 miles in width. Much of this is very heavy, 
and prevents the passage through it of all vessels not specially built 
to encounter ice. The coast between cape North and Scatari often 
holds the ice, during easterly winds, until late in May. Occasionally 
the ice is drifted along the south coast of Newfoundland and reaches 
St. Pierre, but no ice was sighted from that island after the middle of 
April during the seven years 1889-1895. 

Gulf of St. Lawrence.—The ice forms in the gulf early in Decem¬ 
ber and being joined by that from the river, is carried by the current 
toward Cabot strait. The ice increases rapidly during the cold sea¬ 
son. It is usually in sheets a mile or two in length with passages be¬ 
tween them, although sometimes during a prevalence of southwesterly 
winds it may form an unbroken sheet for a few days, extending many 
miles, or even from Cow head to Great Mekattina island. In the 
eastern part of the gulf ice may ’be met with as late as the beginning 
of June. 

A portion of the ice setting eastward through the gulf appears to 
split on cape George; the main part passes into George bay and 
toward Cabot strait; the other part generally sets east-northeastward, 
especially in March and April. 

The ice which usually enters the gulf through Belle Isle strait early 
in January, can not at present be followed. It may arrive off Bonne 
bay during January or February, or it may be driven onto the north¬ 
ern shore of the gulf. Icebergs are rarely found westward of Greenly 
island, although some have been seen off Natashkwan point. North¬ 
westerly winds close the west coast of Newfoundland, while south¬ 
westerly winds open a lane of water inshore. The gulf ice usually 
clears off the west coast of Newfoundland during the first half of 
May, but it may remain much later. 

The harbors and bays in the gulf begin to freeze in December and 
are usually closed to navigation at about the end of that month; even 
in the southern part of the gulf navigation is not considered safe on 
an average after the first week in December or before April 15. 

The gut of Canso and Northumberland strait are rarely closed by 
ice after April 25. 

As a rule, the harbors in the western part of the gulf close earlier 
and open later than those in the eastern part: each locality is 
described when necessary in the following chapters. 

Small vessels from the harbors on the northern shore of the gulf 
and the western harbors of Newfoundland, as well as steamers spe¬ 
cially constructed for ice navigation, prosecute the seal fishery in the 
gulf in March and April. 


ICE. 


41 


Lower St. Lawrence.—The harbors and bays in the lower parts 
of the river begin to freeze early in December, and there is heavy ice 
at the mouth of the river toward the end of that month, which lasts 
until about the middle of April, but during all the season leads can 
be found when the wind drives the ice to either side of the river. As 
a rule, navigation at Quebec is closed by ice from November 26 to 
April 27, but generally it is considered unsafe after November 15 or 
before April 25, and even after the latter date vessels are often 
embarrassed bv drift ice, through which, however, steamers can 
usually force their way. 

It is hoped by the employment of ice breaking steamers to extend 
the period beyond which the river has hitherto been navigable. 

Belle Isle strait.—Thin sheet ice makes its appearance in the 
strait between December 15 and 25, and at about the beginning of 
the year ice several miles in extent and 3 to 10 feet in thickness passes 
between the coast of Labrador and Belle isle and drifts into the strait. 

Icebergs do not arrive in any great number until after the com¬ 
mencement of April, but from that time until September (or even 
October) they are numerous and sometimes very large. The greater 
number of the bergs enter between Belle isle and Labrador and pass 
slowly through the strait, frequently grounding and breaking up, 
the broken ice drifting toward the northern shore. It is stated that 
no bergs ever come ashore on the Newfoundland side. In 1898 many 
bergs were from 150 to 200 feet in height, and some 500 to 600 feet 
in breadth. Some of the bergs ground, while others change their 
positions; no berg drawing more than 30 fathoms of water can reach 
the western end of the strait without breaking up, and only the 
smaller bergs pass through; these are occasionally seen as far west 
as Greenly island and as far south as Rich point. The bergs are 
much more numerous in some seasons than in others; 200 bergs and 
large pieces of ice were counted in the strait in August of one year, 
whilst only half a dozen could be seen in the following August. With 
westerly winds, the strait is often clear of bergs. The bergs are a 
considerable source of danger to shipping during the prevalent thick 
fogs. In 1898 the bergs kept chiefly on the northern shore of the 
strait and could generally be avoided by keeping on the opposite side. 

After May strings of heavy ice drift in with easterly winds and 
cause great obstruction, but with light winds these strings do not 
enter the strait, which may be clear and remain so after April. Be¬ 
tween about the 10th and end of June these strings of heavy ice usu¬ 
ally fail. 

The first steamers enter the strait between June 7 and July 25, and 
the last pass outward between November 11 and 26. 

In 1899 the first steamer passed westward through the strait on 
June 22; later than this a number of steamers attempted to pass 


42 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


through, but were compelled, owing to the amount of field ice encoun¬ 
tered, to bear up for cape Race and pass southward of Newfound¬ 
land. 

Caution.—The proximity of ice is indicated by the following 
signs, and if only one of them is observed caution should be used. 
Both by day and at night the ice blink is almost always visible on the 
sky toward the ice. Ice bliqk is a bright yellowish white light near 
the horizon, reflected from the snow-covered ice, and seen before the 
ice itself is visible. The absence of a swell or motion in a fresh breeze 
is a sign that there is land or ice on the weather side. 

The temperature may fall as ice is approached if the ice be to wind¬ 
ward, and only at an inconsiderable distance away, but not other¬ 
wise. The fall of the temperature of the sea is sometimes a sign, 
either of a cold current or of the proximity of ice, and although the 
temperature of the sea has been known even to rise close to ice, fre¬ 
quent observations of the temperature, both of the air and sea, should 
be taken and considered. 

The appearance of herds of seals or flocks of birds far from land 
is a sign of ice. 

The ice cracking or pieces of it falling into the sea makes a noise 
like breakers or a distant discharge of guns, which may often be 
heard from a short distance. 

As no rule can be laid down for safe navigation, freedom from 
accidents depends on the vigilance, skill, and caution of the naviga¬ 
tor. Vessels should pass to windward of icebergs to avoid the loose 
ice floating to leeward. 

Bay ice is newly frozen ice sufficiently thick to prevent navigation. 

Signals respecting ice.—Information as to ice, wind, tempera¬ 
ture, and weather indications can be obtained by communicating with 
any of the Marine signal stations in the gulf and river St. Lawrence. 

Information for the guidance of any vessel desiring it, as to the 
weather, wind, and the movement and condition of the ice in the 
gulf and river St. Lawrence is specially supplied to the signal sta¬ 
tions at Anticosti, Magdalen islands, Meat cove, cape Ray, cape 
Race, and St. Pierre island, after the beginning of April. 

Information for the guidance of the sealing fleet as to wind, 
weather, and ice in the vicinity of Anticosti, Magdalen islands, Meat 
cove, St. Paul island, and cape Ray is also supplied to Eskimo point 
in March. 

Fogs occur in the gulf and river during the open or navigable 
season, and sometimes last several days continuously; they are most 
frequent in the early part of summer, and seldom fail to accompany 
an easterly wind of any strength or duration. In October and Novem¬ 
ber the fogs and rain previously attending easterly gales are replaced 


FOGS AND FOG SIGNALS. 


43 


by thick snow. During westerly winds fogs are rare and never of 
long duration. 

Ihe above general observations are subject to restriction, according 
to locality or season. Thus winds between south and west are usually 
clear-weather winds above Anticosti, but are frequently accompanied 
with fog in the eastern parts of the gulf. Winds between south and 
east are almost always accompanied with rain and fog in every part. 
Northeasterly winds above point de Monts are often easterly or more 
to the southward in the gulf, changed in direction by the high lands 
of the south shore, and have therefore generally the same foggy 
character. The winds here referred to are those of considerable 
strength and duration. 

Moderate and partial fine-weather winds occur without fog in any 
season and in any locality. In the early part of the navigable season, 
especially in April and May, northeasterly winds with clear weather 
are frequent, and they also occur occasionally at other seasons in 
every part of the gulf and river. 

Fogs in easterly gales extend high above the sea, and can not be 
seen over from a vessel’s masthead; at times the land or other objects 
may be distinguished at the distance of J mile or more in daytime. 
Fogs in calms, especially after strong winds, are frequently so dense 
as to conceal a vessel within hail, but usually they are not of much 
height, so that objects at a distance of 50 yards obscured from a 
person on deck can be seen by a person some 50 feet up the rigging. 

When land is visible in foggy weather, estimations of distance are 
usually in excess of the correct distance. No reliance should be 
placed upon a position assumed from the distance at which the 
sound of surf breaking on a rocky shore is heard, but where steep 
cliffs extend to the sea, the proximity of a steamer to them may be 
detected by the echo of the whistle, although this can not be trusted. 
The only safe guide is the constant use of the lead. 

Fog signals.—It has been clearly established— 

(1) That fog signals are heard at greatly varying distances. 

(2) That under certain conditions of atmosphere, when a fog sig¬ 
nal is a combination of high and low tones, one of the notes may be 
inaudible. 

(3) That there are occasionally areas round a fog signal in which 
it is inaudible. Under certain conditions of the atmosphere the sound 
may be lost at a very short distance from the station, and these condi¬ 
tions may vary within very short intervals of time. 

(4) That a fog ma}^ exist at a short distance from a station and 
not be observable from it, so that the signal will not be sounded. 

(5) That some fog signals can not be started at a moment’s notice, 
although every endeavor is made to sound them as quickly as pos¬ 
sible after signs of fog have been observed. 


44 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Mariners are therefore warned that the lead should never be neg¬ 
lected. Particular attention should also be given to placing lookout 
men in positions where the noises of the ship are least likely to in¬ 
terfere with the hearing of the sound of a fog signal, because experi¬ 
ence shows that although such a signal may not be heard from the 
deck or bridge when the engines are moving, it may be heard when 
the ship is stopped, or from a quiet position. It may also be heard 
from aloft though not from deck. 

It should also be noticed that distances from a fog signal should 
not be judged from the power of the sound. 

Submarine fog bells.—Submarine fog bells have been established 
at Anticosti light vessel and the light vessels in the lower St. Law¬ 
rence, and it is proposed to establish others in the St. Lawrence ap¬ 
proaches. These bells are submerged in the water to the depth of 
about 25 feet below a lightvessel, or below a buoy, and a large ham¬ 
mer, operated by compressed air, is caused to strike the bell at in¬ 
tervals during thick or foggy weather. Water being a good conducter 
of sound, the sound vibrations set up in the water by the bell are 
caused to operate a microphone immersed in a tank filled with a 
solution denser than sea water, which is attached to the listening 
ship’s side in the hold at a certain distance above the keel, and fitted 
with a telephone transmitter. The transmitter, which is adapted 
for the recognition of sounds of high pitch, is connected to a tele¬ 
phone receiver in the chart house or where convenient. When the 
sound vibrations from the bell reach the ship, they are imparted to 
the transmitter and may be heard as a sound in the telephone receiver 
from a distance of about 5 miles, and the bearing may be determined 
to within J point. In vessels not equipped with the receiving ap¬ 
paratus the bell may perhaps be heard from a position within the 
vessel with the ear close to the ship’s side below the water line, but 
only from a distance of 1 to 2 miles. 

Winds—Weather.—The prevailing winds during the navigable 
season are either directly up or directly down the estuary, following 
the course of the high lands on either side of the great valle} T of the 
St. Lawrence. Thus, a southeasterly wind in the gulf becomes east¬ 
erly and northeasterly in the river. Westerly winds do not appear 
to be so much guided in direction by the high lands, excepting along 
the southern shore, where a southwesterly wind at Bic island may 
become a northwesterly wind at cape Gaspe. These winds fre¬ 
quently blow strong for three or four days in succession; the weather 
with westerly winds being fine, dry, clear, and sunny, and with east¬ 
erly winds cold, wet, and foggy. 

Easterly winds prevail in the spring, and frequently blow for sev¬ 
eral weeks in succession. Westerly winds become more frequent 


WINDS AND WEATHER. 


45 


toward summer, and southwesterly winds prevail in summer in all 
parts of the river and gulf. Light southerly winds blow occasionally, 
but northerly winds are not common in summer. Steady northwest¬ 
erly winds are not frequent before September, excepting for a few 
hours at a time, when they generally succeed a calm following east¬ 
erly winds; they become strong and usually back to the southwest. 
Northwesterly winds are dry, with a bright clear sky, flying clouds, 
and showers. Toward the end of September, winds from the north¬ 
ward of west become common, and then are often strong steady 
winds of considerable duration. In October and November, north¬ 
westerly winds are frequently violent in heavy squalls, with passing 
showers of hail and snow, and attended with sharp frost. 

Thunderstorms are common in July and August, and last about one 
or two hours; the wind proceeding from them is generally violent 
and sudden, particularly when near high land, and sail should be 
fully and quickly reduced on their approach. 

Strong winds seldom veer quickly from one quarter of the compass 
to the opposite, but generally fall calm, and are followed by a wind 
in the opposite direction; they may veer, however, several points. 
Northwesterly winds seldom haul through north to east and south¬ 
east, but they frequently back by degrees to the southwest, after 
becoming moderate. Southwesterly winds seldom haul through 
northwest to the eastward, but sometimes back, through south, to 
southeast and east. 

In the fine weather westerly winds of summer, a fresh breeze often 
decreases to a light breeze or calm at night, and freshens again from 
the same quarter on the following morning; it is only under these 
circumstances that there may be a land breeze off the north shore; a 
land breeze may also occur off the south shore, but not so strong or 
extending so far from the land. The north land wind is occasionally 
carried nearly over to the south shore just before daylight, but the 
south land wind seldom extends more than 5 or 6 miles off. Under 
the same circumstances, that is, with a fine weather westerly wind 
failing with the sun, a southwesterly land breeze frequently blows 
off the north coast of Anticosti at night and during the early part of 
the morning. If, however, the weather is not settled fair and the 
wind does not fail with the sun, it is usually useless to run a vessel 
close in shore at night in order to obtain a breeze off the land. 

In Belle Isle strait the normal direction of the wind is through the 
strait, that is, either northeast or southwest, notwithstanding the 
direction of the wind outside. From June to September, 1898, the 
predominant direction of the wind was southwesterly. In Septem¬ 
ber strong northerly and northwesterly winds were frequent with 
clear w T eather. 


46 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Gales.—It is unusual for a very heavy gale of wind to occur in the 
gulf and river St. Lawrence from May to October, although fresh to 
strong breezes are common. There are, however, years the character 
of which is decidedly stormy; gales of wind of considerable strength 
then follow each other in quick succession and from opposite quarters. 
Also during Augus^ and September cyclonic storms, which originate 
as hurricanes in the West Indies, pass over the Eastern Maritime 
provinces and are severely felt, certainly as far westward as Ontario. 

When, after a continuance of westerly winds and fine weather, the 
barometer has risen some tenths above 30 inches and begins to fall, 
an easterly wind may be soon expected. If the barometric fall is 
accompanied by a warm hazy atmosphere and mirage during the day, 
and a heavy dew at night, while the stars twinkle brightly, or there 
is a colored aurora borealis, the approach of southerly or easterly 
wind is almost certain. At the commencement the southerly or east¬ 
erly wind is usually light with fine clear weather; but if the barom¬ 
eter continues to fall the wind gradually increases, the sky becomes 
overcast, rain and fog follow and continue with little intermission 
until dispersed by a fresh breeze from the contrary quarter. 

If the fall of the barometer during the continuance of the southerly 
or easterly wind be very slow, the gale generally lasts some time and 
is not violent; if rapid, it is of short duration and of greater strength. 
When the barometer has fallen to 29 inches the southerly or easterly 
wind generally falls to a calm and in a short time a northwesterly 
gale commences. The strength of this succeeding gale is in propor¬ 
tion to the fall of the barometer and to the strength of the southerly 
or easterly gale which preceded it. A heavy cross sea remains for 
some time from the previous gale. 

The barometer sometimes begins to rise in the interval of calm 
which precedes the northwest gale; at other times, at its commence¬ 
ment ; then the fog and rain cease and the weather becomes quite clear, 
generally in a few hours, and sometimes almost immediately. The 
strength of the northwesterly gale is usually greatest soon after the 
beginning and diminishes as the barometer rises, the wind backing 
to the southwest. These circumstances are the reverse of those attend¬ 
ing an easterly gale, which usually begins with a high barometer and 
clear weather, and is light at first from the southward or southeast¬ 
ward and gradually increases as it backs to the eastward, with a 
falling barometer. 

If, after a northwesterly gale has backed to the southwest and be¬ 
comes moderate, the barometer remains steady at a mean height, fine 
weather usually follows. If it reaches a considerable height but is un¬ 
steady, expect variable weather and wind of moderate force. If. on 
the contrary, it rises quickly to a great height, a repetition of the 
southerly or easterly gale is probable. In some seasons the barometer 


BAROMETER—STORM SIGNALS. 


47 


has no sooner risen for one wind than it has begun to fall for another, 
and this stormy alternation has continued for months; whilst in 
others there has been scarcely a strong breeze during the whole sum¬ 
mer. 

Barometer.—The ordinary range of the barometer in the gulf and 
river St. Lawrence during the navigable season is from 29.00 to 30.50 
inches, and its movements generally accompany the changes of the 
winds and weather. 

There is a great difference in the weather in different seasons, but in 
spring or early summer a northeasterly wind with a rising barometer, 
although perhaps not for a few hours, will almost always become fine 
and clear; and if the barometer fall suddenly and greatly at any 
time, a northerly or probably a northwesterly gale may be expected; 
it may not be immediate, for it may be preceded by a strong short 
southwesterly gale, during which the barometer will seldom rise, and 
may continue to fall, but when the southwesterly gale dies away, the 
northerly or northwesterly will soon succeed with a rising barometer. 

Although a considerable fall of the barometer at times occurs with¬ 
out being followed by a strong wind, so also a strong breeze may 
arise without any indication from the barometer, but it is unlikely to 
reach the force of a gale. A gale so heavy as to be of serious conse¬ 
quence to a good vessel does not occur without being indicated by the 
barometer. It is remarkable that in the gulf and estuary of the St. 
Lawrence a high barometer is often indicative of a southerly or an 
easterly gale, and of wet and foggy weather, which usually accom¬ 
panies its fall, whilst a low barometer is often the precursor of dry 
weather, which generally follows its rise. 

Storm signals.—Storm signals are hoisted at several places on the 
coasts of Nova Scotia, Cape Breton island, New Brunswick, Prince 
Edward island, and Quebec, on warning being received from the 
meteorological office at Toronto, thus: 

No. 1. A cone apex down indicates the probability of a gale, at first 
from an easterly direction. 

No. 2. A cone apex up indicates the probability of a gale, at first 
from a westerly direction. 

No. 3. A cylinder over a cone apex down indicates the probability 
of a heavy gale, at first from an easterly direction. 

No. 4. A cone apex up over a cylinder indicates the probability of 
a heavy gale, at first from a westerly direction. 

The night signal corresponding to Nos. 1 and 3 is a red light. 

The night signal corresponding to Nos. 2 and 4 is a white light 
above a red light. 

Note. —Mariners can obtain further information from signal 
agents, or by consulting the daily forecasts. It must be borne in 
mind that the storm signals do not necessarily mean that a storm will 


48 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


occur at a place where the signal is displayed, but that one is ex¬ 
pected, either there or within such a distance that vessels leaving port 
would be liable to be caught in it. 

In a heavy gale the wind has a rate of over 40 miles an hour, and 
in a moderate gale the rate is less. 

The places at which these signals are exhibited are indicated in this 
book. 

Weather forecasts are issued daily from the meteorological of¬ 
fice at Toronto. The forecast issued at 10 p. m. is distributed by 
the telegraph companies to almost every telegraph office in the Do¬ 
minion, and is published in nearly all the morning newspapers. That 
issued at 10 a. m., which covers the current and following days, is 
also widely disseminated and published in most of the afternoon 
papers, besides being posted in conspicuous places, especially at sea¬ 
ports where mariners can conveniently see it. 

Currents—Cabot strait.—On the south coast of Newfoundland 
between St. Pierre island and cape Ray, the current sets northwest¬ 
ward and passes round cape Ray into the gulf. In ordinary weather 
this inward current is felt for a width of 10 to 15 miles from cape 
Ray, or even farther. In August at 13 miles westward of that cape 
its rate varied from \ mile to nearly 14 miles an hour. This current 
is by no means constant. 

On the western side of Cabot strait to about 12 miles eastward of 
St. Paul island, there is a constant current setting between south and 
southeast; its rate is usually from 4 mile to 14 miles an hour, but 
after a strong northwesterly wind it has reached a rate of 2| miles. 
It may, also, be checked or reversed for a few days at a time by strong 
southeasterly winds. Its greatest rate is off cape North, where it may 
be as much as 2 miles an hour in ordinary weather. Sometimes it 
extends nearly across the strait. 

This current continues to be felt along the eastern coast of Cape 
Breton island, sometimes as far as Scatari island. It is probably af¬ 
fected by the tidal streams, accelerated by the ebb and retarded by the 
flood. In the middle of Cabot strait the current is variable and 
usually weak. 

Belle Isle strait.—The movement of the water in Belle Isle strait 
is tidal, but a strong wind through the strait either way makes a drift, 
which causes the opposing tidal stream to slacken and eventually 
overcomes it altogether; a continuous current then runs in the direc¬ 
tion toward which the wind is blowing, but its rate increases or de¬ 
creases according as the tidal stream is with or against it. This 
appears to take place earlier on the Labrador side of the strait than 
on the Newfoundland side, which is more under tidal influence. 

The general Arctic current setting southward past the Atlantic 
mouth of the strait is influenced by the tidal inflow and outflow of the 


CURRENTS. 


49 


strait itself; the greater inflow toward the strait takes place on the 
northern side of the entrance, and the greater outflow on the south¬ 
ern side. 

Gulf of St. Lawrence.—The rate of the current in most of the 
open area of the gulf of St. Lawrence seldom exceeds 1 mile an 
hour; its direction, therefore, is very variable, being easily influenced 
by strong winds, and on this account it is necessary to exercise caution 
in navigation. 

Westward of a line drawn from Southwest point, Anticosti, to about 
12 miles eastward of St. Paul island, there is usually a current setting 
south-southeastward at a rate of 4 mile to 1 mile an hour; but occa¬ 
sionally it is reversed, when its rate is only about 4 mile, or it may run 
northeastward or southwestward as a cross current at a rate of J mile 
tt> 1 mile. 

A large portion of the water from the St. Lawrence turns south¬ 
ward round cape Gaspe and finds its way eastward between Mag¬ 
dalen islands and Prince Edward island. 

Generally on the west coast of Newfoundland, the current sets 
northeastward; it is scarcely appreciable from cape St. George to Bay 
of Islands, but thence to Rich point it may be considered constant, 
with a rate of about 1 mile an hour; it is stronger near the land than 
farther out, and in the vicinity of bays and inlets this current is 
deflected by the inset and outset of the tidal streams. It is stronger 
than usual for some hours before a southwesterly wind commences, 
but a strong northeasterly wind causes it to slacken and even turn 
southwestward. 

In the area between a line drawn from Rich point northward to 
Eskimo islands and the western end of Belle Isle strait, the currents 
are variable and uncertain, being intermediate between the above 
current and the tidal streams of the strait. In the western part of 
this area the rate is usually less than 1 mile and rarely over 14 miles, 
but toward the entrance of the strait it increases. In the offing of 
Eskimo islands the stream usually sets along the land in either direc¬ 
tion, but at times it sets off and on shore for a whole tide. A current 
sometimes runs southeastward from the vicinity of Greenly island 
and sets strongly on the shore about Flower cove. 

On the northern shore of the gulf from Eskimo islands to cape 
Whittle, in calms or easterly winds, the general movement of the 
water is westward, but in westerly winds it is very variable. Between 
cape Whittle and Heath point, the currents are weak and affected by 
the wind. 

There is no general through current in the channel northward of 
Anticosti. It is probable that the surface current at the eastern end 
of the channel usually sets southeastward with little strength, but it 
is influenced by the wind. 


50918—08-4 



50 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Any set there may be northward of the line joining West point, 
Anticosti, and point de Monts appears to be caused by the wind. At 
times an eddy current sweeps round the bay from Seven islands to 
point de Monts; this eddy sets southward from about Egg island. 

On the south coast of Anticosti the currents are usually weak and 
irregular, setting on and off shore as much as in other directions. It 
is stated by local fishermen that the current sets northward and ob¬ 
liquely onshore on both sides of South point, more especially with 
southwesterly or southerly winds and a rising tide. 

Lower St. Lawrence.—The current is strongest in the estuary of 
the St. Lawrence in spring, soon after the opening of navigation, 
when the river is swollen by the melting snow. 

Below Father point a constant down-going surface current follows 
the southern shore of the estuary, and usually occupies about half th£ 
width of the river above cape Chat. It runs strongly along the north¬ 
ern edge of the bank of soundings off the southern shore, and the 
boundary between it and the inshore flood tidal stream is marked 
by a strong ripple. From Father point to Fame point the rate of this 
down-going current is about 1 to 2J miles an hour, according to the 
tide, direction of the winds, and the season of the year. Between 
Fame point and cape Gaspe it sets almost constantly east-southeast 
and southeast, generally at a rate of 1 to 2 miles an hour, the greatest 
rate observed being 2f miles an hour. It usually occupies a belt of 
about 12 miles in width, lying 2 to 14 miles offshore in the vicinity 
of Fame point. This belt appears to become narrower and the cur¬ 
rent stronger toward cape Rosier. In passing cape Gaspe the current 
keeps closer to the land, cutting off the inshore tidal stream, and its 
direction there varies from southeast to south. This current past 
cape Gaspe is constant during very varying conditions of the current 
elsewhere. 

The main current setting southeastward appears at times to lie in 
the middle of the passage between the land from cape Magdalen to 
cape Gaspe and Anticosti island. It, however, does not appear to be 
felt on the Anticosti side. When the current is in this position, the 
area between it and the Gaspe coast may be occupied by weak and 
variable currents, or a reverse current may set inwards to the north¬ 
west. Such a current may occupy a belt lying 2 to 12 miles off Fame 
point, and may run constantly northwestward for some six days at 
a rate of J mile to 1^ miles an hour. During this time the current past 
cape Gaspe still runs southward, and its general direction is a little 
southward of south-southeast. 

When the above changes occur the current may turn in direction, 
and set on or off shore for 2 to 4 hours at a time with a rate of mile 
to 1J miles an hour. This has been observed both on the Gaspe side 
of the estuary, southeastward of Fame point, and on the Anticosti 


CURRENTS—TIDES. 


51 


side, between Southwest point and West point, at distances of 4 to 7 
miles offshore. 

The current is always affected by the tidal stream. When the cur¬ 
rent has its usual southeasterly direction it is strongest at low water 
and weakest at high water, but when the current runs inwards the 
reverse is the case. 

It seems probable that the chief reason that the current keeps along 
the Gaspe coast is because the prevailing winds on the lower St. Law¬ 
rence are from the northwestward. When the winds are northwest¬ 
erly in the Gaspe region also, they assist in keeping the current on 
that shore and in increasing its rate. In general, mariners may ex¬ 
pect to find the usual down-going current setting southeastward along 
the Gaspe coast, unless they have reason to infer from the weather 
met with, that a low-pressure area, or storm center, is passing to the 
northward. This is commonly accompanied by winds from the south¬ 
ward of west in the lower St. Lawrence, and southerly winds with 
a falling or low barometer southward of Anticosti. The condition 
of the current may then be disturbed as above explained. 

Under these disturbed conditions there are times when the current 
sets more or less onshore. 

The down-going current is constant or nearly so round point de 
Monts; this point turns the current to the southeastward at a rate of 
1 to 2 miles an hour, and it must be guarded against when beating up 
the estuary and in this vicinity, especially in foggy weather. 

Tides.—The tidal undulations enter the gulf of St. Lawrence by 
Cabot and Belle Isle straits. The wave entering by Cabot strait 
reaches a line drawn approximately from St. Paul island to La Poile 
bay, Newfoundland, at about 8h. Quebec mean time, full and change, 
and by 9h. it has advanced to a line drawn from the vicinity of Bird 
rocks to Bear head, Newfoundland. The wave entering Belle Isle 
strait reaches at 9h. Quebec mean time, full and change, a line curving 
westward from about cape Diable to Eddies cove. Both waves meet 
at lOh. Quebec mean time on about a line drawn spirally from the 
vicinity of Bird rocks to Fog island, on the north shore of the gulf, 
and thus over a large area in the eastern part of the gulf high water 
occurs nearly at the same time, or from 9h. to lOh. Quebec mean time. 

After meeting, the two undulations are deflected northward and 
southward of Anticosti, the northern producing high water in the 
channel northward of that island. The undulation passing south¬ 
ward of Anticosti follows the deep channel into the lower St. Law¬ 
rence with considerable velocity, reaching a line curving westward 
between point de Monts and cape Michaux at 12h. Quebec mean time. 
Lateral waves extend off this undulation, the northern of which 
causes high water on the southern coast of Anticosti, and the southern 
travels southwestward, southward, and southeastward between Mag- 


52 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


dalen islands and Gaspe peninsula, the eastern coast of New Bruns¬ 
wick, and Prince Edward island, reaching lines drawn approximately 
from Grindstone island to cape Gaspe at 2h.; from Grindstone 
island to North point, Prince Edward island, at 4h.; and from Entry 
island to East point, Prince Edward island, at about 8h. Quebec mean 
time. 

The undulation w T hich causes high water at St. Paul island at 
about 8h., also causes high water between East point, Prince Edward 
island, and the vicinity of cape Mabou, Cape Breton island, at about 
the same time, and it thence advances westward in Northumberland 
strait. The wave traveling southwestward between Magdalen islands 
and cape Gaspe, as above described, reaches the northwestern en¬ 
trance of the strait at about 3h. Quebec mean time, and it turns south¬ 
eastward into the strait; these waves meet westward of cape 
Tormentine. 

The greatest range of the tide in the gulf is attained at Charlotte¬ 
town and at the head of Chaleur bay, where it amounts to about 10 
feet. 

At the entrance of St, Lawrence estuary the tide has a range of 6 
to 8 feet, and the range increases as the river is ascended. The maxi¬ 
mum range of 19 feet is attained at Grosse isle; at Quebec, 25 miles 
farther up, the range is 18 feet, but at 40 miles above Quebec the tide 
is to a large extent cut off by Richelieu rapids, and it ceases to be felt 
at Three Rivers, at the lower end of lake St, Peter. 

Tide tables are issued annually by the tidal survey branch of the 
Department of Marine and Fisheries of the Dominion of Canada for 
Quebec and Father point, with tidal differences for the gulf and 
river St. Lawrence, and data for the turn of the tidal streams through¬ 
out the lower St. Lawrence; for Ste. Croix bar, above Quebec; and 
for Charlottetown, Pictou, and St, Paul island, with tidal differences 
for Northumberland strait, Miramichi, the north coast of Prince 
Edward island, and Cabot strait. 

Tide tables for the gulf and river St. Lawrence are also issued by 
the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. 

Tidal streams.—Throughout the gulf the currents are affected 
by the tidal streams, being accelerated when the stream is running in 
the same direction as the current, and retarded, or even reversed, 
when the stream is opposing the current. The direction of a current 
also may turn with more or less regularity in accordance with the 
tidal stream. 

The rate of the tidal stream in the lower St, Lawrence is some¬ 
times 5 to 6 knots an hour; in the gut of Canso as much as 4 knots; 
and in the narrowest part of Northumberland strait, off Indian rocks 
and cape Jourimain, 3 knots. 


TIDAL STREAMS. 


53 


At about 6 miles off the northern end of Magdalen islands the tidal 
streams run alternately northwestward and southeastward at a rate 
of over 1 knot an hour. 

The influence of the tidal stream from Chaleur bay is felt as far as 

30 miles seaward of Miscou island. 

In the channel northward of Anticosti, between North point and 
Niapisca island, the streams are tidal, the west-going stream running 
during the rising tide and the east-going during the falling tide. 
The rate at neaps is less than 1^ knots an hour, and the west-going or 
inward stream is probably i stronger than the outward. 

The tidal streams near the shore, between Anticosti and point de 
Monts, although weak, are tolerably regular; from Seven islands to 
point de Monts the flood stream is stronger than the ebb, the latter 
being turned to the southward by the point. 

Belle Isle strait.—The movement of the water in Belle Isle strait 
is predominately tidal. When uninfluenced by wind the stream runs 
northeast and southwest for nearly equal periods, and turns regularly 
in accordance with the rise and fall of the tide. On the whole, the 
southwesterly, or inward, flow seems to be slightly greater than the 
outward flow. 

It appears as yet impossible to predict with accuracy the direction 
of the streams in the strait, but under normal conditions the south¬ 
west stream begins about 4 hours before high water at Forteau bay, 
and the northeast stream about 2^ hours after high water there; the 
streams turning in direction with the hands of a watch. The ordi¬ 
nary rate during the strength of the streams is 1 to 2 knots an hour, 
but the greatest rates observed have been, of the southwest stream, 

31 knots, and of the northeast, 2^ knots. Both their rates and direc¬ 
tions are greatly affected by any strong winds blowing at the time, or 
just previously. 

On the Labrador side the southwest stream predominates, espe¬ 
cially toward the eastern end of the strait, and near the shore, where 
it is so strong at times as to prevent fishermen hauling their nets. 

On the Newfoundland side toward cape Norman the reverse ap¬ 
pears to be the case. Certainly there is more slack water in that 
locality than on the Labrador coast. The northeast stream runs 
round cape Norman with considerable strength, while the southwest 
stream is comparatively weak. The streams do not always run fairly 
through the strait, and with both there is an indraft toward Cook 
and Pistolet bays. 

Lower St. Lawrence.—The flood tidal undulation ascends the 
lower St. Lawrence in the wide deep water until it arrives at the 
comparatively narrow pass formed by Green island, Red Islet bank, 
and the extensive shoals off the entrance of Saguenay river; here it is 


54 


GEN Ell AL REMARKS. 


obstructed, and a part of it being turned back, forms an eddy flood 
stream setting from below Red Islet bank toward Razade islets, as 
shown by the arrows on chart No. 1490. During the ebb tide the 
stream from the Saguenay sets over to the southward and takes the 
same direction. Therefore, from the mouth of the Saguenay to cape 
Chat there is a constant downward stream, which occupies more than 
half the width of the river on its southern side, its rate being about 
1| to 2\ knots an hour. A short distance below Red Islet bank the 
stream is very strong, about 4 knots, but its rate decreases to the east¬ 
ward, where its direction is toward Razade islets, off which its rate 
is 2 to 3 knots. 

During the ebb the stream runs downward on both sides of the 
estuary, stronger on the south than on the north shore, and weakest 
in the middle. That on the north side is deflected southward by Mille 
Yaches, Bersimis, Manikuagan, and de Monts points, and by the ebb¬ 
ing streams of the large rivers between them. This southerly set 
must be allowed for, especially in sailing vessels with a northerly 
wind, to prevent being set upon a lee shore. 

There is no upward or flood tidal stream along the southern shore 
of the estuary from cape Gaspe to a few miles below Red islet, except 
southward of the downward current, and closer inshore than vessels 
usually venture to go, or within about 1 to 1^ miles off the land. 

During the flood there is usually slack water northward of the 
downward Current, whilst along the north shore the flood stream is 
regular in its recurrence, its rate increasing as the estuary is ascended. 
The rate of the flood stream is greatest along the north shore, and it 
diminishes to the southward till at about 9 miles from that shore it is 
imperceptible. These differences in the rates and directions of the 
streams produce strong ripples in many places, the positions of which 
vary according to the times of the tide, and perhaps from the force 
and direction of the wind. 

Round point de Monts there is little or no flood stream excepting 
very close inshore. 

Both flood and ebb tidal streams run from above Red islet to cape 
a la Roche over the whole breadth of the river. 

Lights.—The lights on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia and those 
required for the winter passage of either steamers or ice boats to 
Prince Edward island are exhibited all the year. All other lights of 
the Dominion of Canada under the control of the Department of 
Marine and Fisheries are maintained in operation whenever naviga¬ 
tion in the vicinity is open. Lights used solely as harbor lights are 
not exhibited when the harbor is closed, although the general navi¬ 
gation may remain open. Fishing lights are maintained only during 
the fishing season. In any case where there is reasonable doubt 
whether the light is required it is kept in operation. 


LIGHTVESSELS-BUOYAGE. 


55 


Prince Shoal, Red Islet, White Islet, and Anticosti lightvessels are 
placed in position each spring as early as the ice permits. The light¬ 
vessels in the river leave their stations on November 15, annually, and 
Anticosti lightvessel is withdrawn for the winter at about the same 
time. 

Acetylene gas has been introduced for some of the lightbuoys in 
river St. Lawrence. 

Lightvessels—Riding lights—Numbers.—There is no uni¬ 
formity of practice in regard to Canadian lightvessels carrying 
riding lights. 

For the purpose of identification all Canadian lightships will 
hereafter be numbered on a system already established. These num¬ 
bers will be kept by the several vessels unchanged, even if they change 
their stations. The numbers allotted are as follows: 


No. 

Present station. 

No. in 
Canadian 
List of 



Lights. 

1 

Barrington. 

241 

2 

Miramichi.. 

860 

3 

Red islet. .. 

1107 

4 

Upper Traverse (not now in use). 

5 

White Island reef. 

1142 

6 

Pointe & la Garde. 

963 

7 

Prince shoal. 

1109 

10 

Lake St. Peter, west.... 

1339 

11 

Lake St. Louis, east.. 

1506 

12 

Lake St. Louis, center.. 

1508 

13 

Lake St. Louis, west. 

1512 

14 

Lurcher... 

198 

' 15 

Anticosti. 

1040 

16 

Fraser River. 

2309 



Hereafter the number of each vessel is to be painted in white 
on her topsides in addition to the name of her station. 

Buoyage.—The following system of buoyage is adopted in the 
waters of the Dominion of Canada: 

Approaching from seaward all buoys on the starboard side of the 
channel are painted red, and, if numbered, marked with even num¬ 
bers, and must be left on the starboard hand. 

Approaching from seaward all buoys on the port side of the chan¬ 
nel are painted black and, if numbered, marked with odd numbers, 
and must be left on the port hand. 

Numbers, when used, are in consecutive order, commencing from 
seaward. 

Buoys painted red and black in horizontal bands mark middle 
grounds and are left on either hand. 

Buoys painted white and black in vertical stripes mark mid¬ 
channel, or the fairway, and may be passed on either hand. These 
buoys are rarely used. 

Pillar, light, bell, and whistle buoys mark special positions, a de¬ 
tailed description of which is given when the mark is first established. 






















56 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Conical buoys, when used, are always on the starboard side of the 
channel; conical topmarks on starboard hand buoys, and cylindrical 
topmarks on port hand buoys; otherwise the shapes of buoys have no 
special significance at present. 

The rule for coloring buoys is also applicable to beacons and other 
day marks, so far as it may be practicable to carry it out. 

The buoys in the lower St. Lawrence are numbered consecutively 
from Gaspe westward, and also bear the letter B (Below Quebec). 

Buoys in the river St. Lawrence above Quebec are numbered under 
letters of the district, thus: Q, Quebec; C, Champlain; L, Lake, in 
eluding lake St. Peter, and M, Montreal. 

The spar buoys in the river are swift current buoys, ballasted with 
iron rings to keep them upright. 

Caution.—Buoys marking outlying dangers, owing to their ex¬ 
posed positions, are always liable to break adrift or to other accident; 
therefore implicit reliance should not be placed on their being in 
position. 

Buoyage season.—Buoys in the Dominion are, generally speak¬ 
ing, maintained in position during the season of navigation. In 
localities where the lights are maintained in operation throughout the 
year the buoys are always kept in position. In districts where 
navigation is closed in winter the buoys are kept out in autumn until 
the last vessel has cleared, or as late as the ice will allow, with due 
regard to their safety. The buoys are replaced in the spring as soon 
as the ice will permit. 

All the buoys, including the lightbuoys, in the lower St. Lawrence 
between Gaspe and Quebec are placed in position as early as possible 
after the ice passes dow T n each spring, and are removed after the 10th 
of November each autumn, the date varying with the season, and 
every effort is made to leave them out so long as the state of the ice 
permits, but belated vessels must not expect to find them in position 
after the ice has begun to run. Some of the more important buoys, 
if lifted before the last vessels have passed out, are temporarily re¬ 
placed by wooden spars, in which case the pilots are duly notified, but 
no special notices to mariners describing the removal or replacing of 
buoys each season are issued. 

The buoys, including the lightbuoys, in the river St. Lawrence be¬ 
tween Quebec and Montreal are maintained in position during the 
season of navigation. 

All the bell buoys and whistling buoys on the southeast and east 
coasts of Nova Scotia from Pennant point, westward of Halifax, to 
cape North, Cape Breton island, are always maintained, with the 
following exceptions: 

Cape Breaker bell buoy, Grime rock whistling buoy, Louisburg 
whistling buoy, and Louisburg bell buoy are replaced during winter 


WRECKS—MARINE SIGNAL STATIONS. 


57 


by wooden spar buoys, colored according to the Canadian system. 
Canso Harbor bell buoy, Fourchu bell buoy, and Aconi Point whistling 
buoy are taken up during winter. 

Should heavy gulf ice appear on the coast, it may become necessary 
temporarily to lift the remaining buoys to prevent their loss. 

Wrecks.—Buoys, and the top sides of vessels used for marking 
wrecks, are painted green with a white inscription, and moored, when 
possible, near the side of the wreck next to mid-channel. 

Wreck-marking vessels exhibit: 

By day.—Three balls from a yard, 20 feet above the sea; two 
placed vertically on the side that shipping may safely pass, and one 
on the other side. 

By night.—Three fixed white lights, similarly arranged; the or¬ 
dinary riding light is not shown. 

Mariners must pass on that side of a wreck-marking vessel on 
which the two balls or two lights are shown. 

Marine signal stations.—The following stations in the gulf and 
river St. Lawrence are maintained by the government of the Do¬ 
minion of Canada: 

In Newfoundland—cape Ray. 

St. Paul island. 

In Cape Breton island—Low point (Flat point) ; Meat cove, cape 
St. Lawrence. 

In Magdalen islands—Amherst island, Grosse isle. 

In Anticosti island—Heath point, South point, Southwest point, 
West point. 

On the coast of New Brunswick—point Escuminac. 

On tlie Gaspe coast—point Maquereau, cape Espoir. 

In the strait of Belle isle—Chateau bay, Belle isle, Amour point. 

On the north shore of the river St. Lawrence—point de Monts, 
Manikuagan point, Portneuf. 

On the south shore of the river St. Lawrence—cape Rosier, Fame 
point, cape Magdalen, Martin river, cape Chat, Matane, Little Metis, 
Father point, riviere du Loup, l’Islet. 

All inward-bound vessels making their official numbers to any 
of the marine signal stations in the gulf and river St. Lawrence 
are reported immediately, and all reports are promptly posted on the 
bulletin board of the Great North Western Telegraph company’s 
office, Quebec, and on that of the Board of Trade, Montreal. These 
reports are repeated to the pilot station at Father point, so that pilots 
may be aware of the locality of inward-bound vessels. 

The International Code of Signals is used for communicating with 
these stations. (Arrangements for night signals are under con¬ 
sideration. ) 


58 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Dispatches to or from vessels are duly delivered as addressed, and 
they are charged for at the ordinary telegraph rates between stations; 
but no charge is made for signaling between coast stations and vessels 
at sea. Dispatches may, by special request, be delivered in cipher; 
otherwise they are transmitted in ordinary language. 

Vessels may obtain information as to winds, weather, ice, and 
fisheries at any signal station within the river and gulf of St. Law¬ 
rence free of charge. 

There are also several telegraph stations on the shores of the gulf 
and river which are not signal stations; the principal of these are 
mentioned in the following chapters. 

Lloyd’s signal stations. —The following of the above signal sta¬ 
tions are included in Lloyd’s system of reporting stations. Orders 
forwarded to Lloyd’s can be notified to vessels through these signal 
stations on the same conditions as through Lloyd’s signal stations. 
Vessels signaling to them are reported to Lloyd’s for insertion in 
Lloyd’s List, the Shipping Gazette, and daily press, in the same man¬ 
ner as if reported from Lloyd’s signal stations: 

Cape Ray; St. Paul island; cape St. Lawrence; Amherst island; 
Heath point, South point, Southwest point, and West point, Anticosti; 
Chateau bay; Belle isle; Armour point; cape Rosier; Fame point; 
cape Magdalen. 

Wireless telegraph stations are established and maintained by 
the government of Canada as follows: 


Stations. 


Call 

letters. 


Remarks. 


Fame Point lighthouse, Gasp6 coast. 

Heath Point lighthouse, Anticosti. 

Cape Whittle, Labrador. 

Point Rich lighthouse, west coast of Newfound¬ 
land. 

Cape Ray lighthouse, southwest point of Newfound¬ 
land. 

Cape Sable lighthouse, southwest point of Nova I 
Scotia. 

Partridge Island lighthouse, St. John harbor, New 
Brunswick. 

Clark city, Seven islands, northern shore of St. 
Lawrence river. 

Father Point lighthouse, southern shore of St. j 
Lawrence river. 


FP 

HP 

WR 

TC 

CR 

SB 

SJ 

CK 

RT 


These stations have a normal range of 
125 miles and are available, day and 
night, for communication with ves¬ 
sels equipped with a Marconi ap¬ 
paratus. 


Point Amur lighthouse, Labrador. 

Belle Isle lighthouse, southeast end of the island_ 

Cape Race lighthouse, southeast point of Newfound¬ 
land. 

North Sydney, entrance to Sydney harbor, Nova 
Scotia. • 


Cape Bear lighthouse, southern end of Prince Ed- ! 
ward island. 

Pictou, Nova Scotia. 


PR 

BL 

CE 

ND 


BE 

RU 


Sable island, Atlantic ocean. SD 

Camperdown heights, entrance to Halifax harbor, CN 
Nova Scotia. 


These stations have a normal range of 
t>0 miles and are available, day and 
night, for communication with ves¬ 
sels equipped with a Marconi ap¬ 
paratus. 


These stations have a normal range of 
60 miles, but are in operation only 
during the winter months for com¬ 
munication with steamers crossing 
from Prince Edward island to the 
mainland and are not available for 
commercial purposes. 

These stations are operated by the 
Marconi Wireless Telegraph Com¬ 
pany of Canada (Limited) and are 
available, day and night, for com¬ 
munication with vessels equipped 
with a Marconi apparatus. 























TELEGRAPH CABLES—MARINE HOSPITALS. 


59 


Commercial and social telegrams are accepted at any of the Cana¬ 
dian Pacific Telegraph offices in Canada, and are sent prepaid to 
steamers equipped with wireless telegraph apparatus at a minimum 
charge of $2 for ten words, and 12 cents for each additional word, 
besides the usual land charges. 

Telegraph cables.—Seven cables from England and Ireland 
touch at Canso, whence five cables run to United States ports, one to 
St. Pierre island, one to Sydney, and one to Port Basque. 

Two cables are laid from Sydney to Placentia bay, Newfoundland, 
and one to St. Pierre island. 

A cable runs from Cape Breton island to St. Paul island, and an¬ 
other to Magdalen islands, which is continued to Bryon island. 

Prince Edward island is connected by a cable with the mainland. 

Anticosti is connected by cables, one from the Gaspe coast, one 
across Mingan channel, and one from Bryon island to Heath point. 

On the north shore of the estuary a cable crosses Saguenay river. 

A cable also connects Chateau bay and Belle isl^ 

Coal.—Coal can be obtained in large quantities at North Sydney, 
Sydney, Pictou, Charlottetown, Quebec, and Montreal; quantities of 
500 to 1,000 tons are usually in stock at Cow bay, Louisburg, George¬ 
town, Summerside, and Chatham. 

Docks.—The harbor commissioner’s dock at Quebec is 600 feet 
long over all, 61J feet wide at the entrance, with 23J feet on the 
blocks at high water ordinary springs. 

There are also three small floating docks at Quebec. 

At Montreal there are two docks 360 feet and 300 feet long, 
respectively. 

There are marine railways at Pictou, Port Hawkesbury, and North 
Sydney. 

Repairs.—Ordinary repairs to iron vessels and machinery can be 
effected at North Sydney, New Glasgow, Pictou, Charlottetown, 
Quebec, and Montreal. 

Marine hospitals.—A duty of 2 cents per ton register is levied 
on every vessel arriving in any port of the provinces of Quebec, Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward island; the money thus 
collected forming a sick mariners’ fund. Vessels of 100 tons and less 
pay the duty once a year, and vessels over 100 tons three times in each 
year. 

No dues are collected from vessels in the province of Ontario, but 
an appropriation is made by Parliament to cover the expenditure at 
Kingston and St, Catherines, where general hospitals are established 
and sick seamen are cared for at a rate of 90 cents per diem. 

At Montreal sick seamen are cared for at the General hospital and 
at Notre Dame hospital; at Quebec at the Jeffrey Hale and the Hotel 


60 


GENERAL REMARKS. 


Dieu hospitals. Marine hospitals are maintained in Nova Scotia at 
Pictou, Sydney, and point Tupper; in New Brunswick at Miramichi, 
Richibucto, and Bathurst, and in Prince Edward island sick seamen 
are cared for at the Charlottetown and Prince Edward Island 
hospitals. 

At ports where no hospitals are established sick seamen are cared 
for under the chief officer of customs, when the vessel to which the 
seamen belong has paid the dues. 

Pilots.—Pilotage for the lower St. Lawrence is controlled by the 
Canadian Department of Marine and Fisheries and is compulsory 
for merchant vessels in the river St. Lawrence. The pilots are 
embarked by inward bound vessels and disembarked by outward 
bound vessels at Father point. 

The pilotage district is included between a line drawn from Father 
point to the eastern anchorage ground at cape Colombier and the 
city of Quebec. It includes the Saguenay river. 

Nova Scotia banks.—Proceeding to the gulf of St. Lawrence 
through the gut o? Canso the banks which lie off the much-exposed 
and dangerous coast of Nova Scotia must be crossed. The north¬ 
eastern edge of these banks runs approximately from St. Paul island 
to latitude 44° 30' N., longitude 57° 05' E., whence the southern edge 
takes a general southwesterly direction. Of these banks the prin¬ 
cipal in extent and most important in position are the Banquereau 
and Sable Island banks, the former being the eastern of what may be 
correctly designated the Nova Scotia banks. 

Soundings have not been obtained on the banks in sufficient num¬ 
bers to justify much confidence being placed in a position assumed 
from depths alone. 

The shoalest parts of the northeastern of these banks, which are 
separated from each other by depths usually less than 100 fathoms, 
but which reach 180 fathoms, are— 

Banquereau bank, extending from about latitude 44° 30' N., 
longitude 57° 17' W., westward to the meridian of 60 c W., a distance 
of about 120 miles, with a greatest width of some 45 miles, is a plateau 
of sand, gravel, and shells, with 13 to 50 fathoms water; and it may 
be distinguished from contiguous banks by the numerous flat sea eggs 
without prickles, which are found on its bottom. The shoalest part 
of Banquereau bank, with 13 fathoms, in latitude 44° 46' N.. and 
longitude 57° 38' W., is the apex of a ridge, having less than 30 
fathoms water, about 45 miles in length north-northeast and south- 
southwest, and some 12 miles in width. Banquereau bank is sepa¬ 
rated from bank St. Pierre of the Great bank of Newfoundland by a 
deep channel, nearly 60 miles wide, with general depths of over 200 
fathoms, muddy bottom; and from the northeast bar of Sable island 


NOVA SCOTIA BANKS. 61 

by the Gully, which is 8 miles across its narrowest part and CO to 340 
fathoms deep. 

By referring to the chart it will be seen that the above-mentioned 
ridge, relatively with the dangers of Sable island, is a safe offing 
for vessels intending to pass to the northward of Sable island, and 
if the vessels can keep to the parallel of the bank, the continuous line 
of comparatively shoal water will enable them, under ordinary cir¬ 
cumstances, to feel their way with some degree of confidence until 
they have passed to the westward of Sable island. 

There are two shoal spots to the eastward of Banquereau bank, the 
northern one having from 30 to 40 fathoms of water on it, and the 
southern one 38 fathoms. These shoal spots are indicated on H. O. 
chart Xo. 981 and on B. A. chart Xo. 2666. 

The cable steamer Mackay-Bennett, in 1904, obtained a sounding 
of 29 fathoms in approximated latitude 44° 43' 45" X., longitude 
57° 25' 00" W. 

Misaine bank lies to the northward of Banquereau bank be¬ 
tween it and Scatari island, and is separated from Banquereau bank 
by a deep-vrater gully, where the soundings vary from 50 to 155 
fathoms. 

The least water yet found on this bank is 36 fathoms, on its south¬ 
eastern side, the general depth being over 40 fathoms, with a bottom 
of stones and broken shells. The outline of the bank is very irregu¬ 
lar; its eastern limit being in 45° 28' X., 58° 10' W., and its western 
extremity being connected with Canso bank by the 60-fathom line. 
Between Misaine bank and the bank extending from Cape Breton 
island, there is a deep gully, some 25 miles wide, with a depth of 
70 to 162 fathoms. 

The northeastern part of Misaine bank is formed of two shoals 
separated from the main bank and from each other by gullies hav¬ 
ing depths of 50 to 90 fathoms. 

Canso bank.—The northwestern end of this bank lies about 16 
miles southeastward of cape Canso, and its eastern side is separated 
from Misaine bank by a space about 17 miles across, in which are 
depths of 54 to 79 fathoms, and some patches of 46 to 49 fathoms. 

The least water on Canso bank, which extends about 30 miles east 
and w r est and some 18 miles north and south, is 35 fathoms, sandy 
bottom. Its southern side is of very irregular shape. The bank is 
separated from the northeastern end of Middle bank by a space of 
deep water with 100 to 180 fathoms, and from the bank extending 
from cape Canso by a narrow deep-water channel with 50 to 84 
fathoms. 

Artimon bank, situated at the eastern end of the deep-water 
gully separating Misaine and Banquereau banks, is of small extent, 


62 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


the least water being 36 fathoms, over a bottom of stones with star 
fish and sea eggs. 

Note.— For Sable island and the Nova Scotia*banks southwestward 
of Canso and Banquereau banks, and also the Great bank of New¬ 
foundland, w T hich extends southward and southeastward of that 
island, see Sailing Directions for the Bay of Fundy, Southeast Coast 
of Nova Scotia. The Great bank of Newfoundland is also described 
in Newfoundland and the Coast of Labrador. 

The gulf and river St. Lawrence—General directions. 

Entrance.—The gulf of St. Lawrence may be entered from the 
northward through the strait of Belle Isle, from the southward and 
from the eastward through the gut of Canso or through Cabot strait. 

Those intending to use the gut of Canso must be cautious in pass¬ 
ing Sable island. Those using Cabot strait may cross the banks off 
the coast of Nova Scotia or pass between those and St. Pierre bank, 
the western one of the Great banks. 

General directions—Steam vessels—Cabot strait.—Steam 
vessels proceeding through Cabot strait, in the spring and with clear 
weather, should pass the signal station on Galantry head, St. Pierre 
island, within signaling distance, and obtain information as to the 
state of the ice; or failing this, obtain the information either from the 
signal station on cape Ray with northerly winds, or that on St. Paul 
island under other circumstances. After the ice has disappeared, gen¬ 
erally about the end of May, keep farther off Galantry head, to avoid 
the dense fogs that prevail in that neighborhood during June and 
July, and beware of the strong current that occasionally sets into the 
bays on the south coast of Newfoundland; in fact, during this period, 
it is better to be nearer St. Paul island than cape Ray. 

Cabot strait to St. Lawrence river—Southward of Anticosti 
island.—From Cabot strait steer to pass northward of Bird rocks 
and thence to cape Rosier. In thick weather the best guide is the 
deep gut running up the gulf toward the river, and vessels should 
keep on the edge of the 100-fathom curve, which, runs nearly straight 
from Bird rocks to Cape Rosier. From cape Rosier keep a moderate 
distance off the south shore of the estuary until abreast Father point. 

Caution.—The south shore of the estuary between cape Rosier and 
Matane is very bold, and there is a depth of 50 fathoms within 3 
miles, while the 30-fathom curve is less than 2 miles offshore. Several 
inward bound vessels have stranded in the vicinity of Matane, owing 
to their courses having been altered to port, on the assumption that 
they were above Matane, when they were actually several miles east¬ 
ward of it. 

Mariners are reminded that when the position is not constantly 
obtained by bearings or angles, it is necessary to make full allowance 


STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE TO ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 63 

for the strong current which invariably sets downstream, regardless 
of the tidal direction, but with a rate varying according to the ris¬ 
ing and falling of the water; increasing during the ebb and decreas¬ 
ing during the flood. In thick weather be careful to give the southern 
shore a good berth, which can safely be done, as the estuary is clear 
and open for a width of about 21 miles as far up as Bic island. Hug¬ 
ging the southern shore is incurring an unnecessary risk. 

The lead should be constantly used and depths obtained of at least 
50 fathoms, no bottom at each cast. 

St. Lawrence river to Cabot strait.—From abreast Father point 
keep a sufficient distance from the south shore of the estuary to ob¬ 
tain the advantage of the downward current. When off Fame point 
steer for a position northeastward of Bird rocks. Thence make a 
straight course through Cabot strait, passing St. Paul island as con¬ 
venient. 

In thick weather great caution and attention to the soundings and 
set of the tidal streams and currents are necessary. From off cape 
Rosier keep on the edge of the 100-fathom curve, which passes 
about 12 miles northeastward of Bird rocks. Thence make a direct 
course through Cabot strait. 

Strait of Belle isle to St. Lawrence river—Passage south of 
Anticosti island.—In approaching Belle isle from the eastward 
make its southern side, then keep in the fairway of the strait. From 
Amour point, with clear weather, steer for Anticosti lightvessel, 
moored 8 miles southeastward of Heath point, and pass her at a mod¬ 
erate distance. Then give the land on the southeast and south coasts 
of Anticosti a berth of about 5 miles till southward of South Point 
lighthouse, wdience steer for a position northward of cape Magdalen. 

In thick weather, from the strait of Belle Isle steer for Anticosti 
lightvessel in order to pick up her fog signal, using proper caution 
when approaching the southeastern end of Anticosti; from the light¬ 
vessel steer for a position southward of South cape, and thence to 
a position northward of cape Magdalen. If uncertain as to the posi¬ 
tion do not cross over the bank extending southeastward of Anticosti 
in a depth of less than 50 fathoms. Having crossed this bank, and 
increased the depth to over 100 fathoms, alter course toward a posi¬ 
tion northward of cape Magdalen. Soundings must be constantly 
obtained, or depths of at least 100 fathoms, no bottom reached at each 
cast. 

In favorable weather steamers sometimes use the route northward 
of Anticosti. 

Caution.—From the character of the current in Belle Isle strait 
a vessel passing through it in either direction may overrun her reck¬ 
oning or the contrary. 


64 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


When navigation between the strait and the eastern end of Anti¬ 
costi, it must not be assumed that the current is always setting west¬ 
ward, as it sometimes sets in the opposite direction. 

St. Lawrence river to Belle Isle strait.—Proceed down the 
river at a moderate distance from the south shore to obtain the ad¬ 
vantage of the downward current, and from a position off Fame 
point steer to make South Point lighthouse or light, passing about 5 
miles southward of it. Thence steer to pass a similar distance off 
Heath point, and, leaving Anticosti lightvessel about 3 miles to the 
southeastward, direct to the strait. In thick weather special atten¬ 
tion must be given to the current and tidal streams, the lead must be 
constantly used, and the southeastern end of Anticosti should be 
rounded in depths of not less than 30 fathoms. Anticosti lightvessel 
is always withdrawn in winter. 

Sailing vessels bound to the gulf of St. Lawrence through Cabot 
strait should endeavor to make St. Paul island, which, being of con¬ 
siderable elevation, bold all round, and well lighted, may be made 
both at night and by day; with proper caution it may be steered for 
even in fog, unless fog is very thick. 

Caution.—In approaching St. Paul island from the southeastward 
with northerly winds, the prevailing south-southeasterly current, 
which at times is considerably more westerly and sets toward Cape 
Breton island, should be guarded against bv sounding on the bank 
extending off Scatari island and off the eastern coast of Cape Breton 
island as far northward as Ingonish. Beyond this the depth is too 
great to afford any guidance except that the vessel should not get 
soundings below 50 fathoms. The south coast of Newfoundland, east¬ 
ward of cape Rav, is broken, rocky, and dangerous; there is often a 
strong indraft toward the land, and the tidal streams, being influ¬ 
enced by the winds, are irregular; while southerly and easterly winds, 
and often also southwesterly winds bring a thick fog, which is most 
dense near the lee shore. This coast, therefore, should not be ap¬ 
proached, except with a decided northerly wind and clear weather. 

St. Paul island to Bird rocks and Magdalen islands.—From 
St. Paul island for St. Lawrence river, endeavor, in clear weather, 
to make Great Bird rock, which bears from the north point of St. 
Paul island 312°, distant 55 miles. 

In thick weather, when the lights cannot be seen, the bank around 
the Magdalen islands is an excellent guide up to Bird rocks, running 
along the northern edge of the bank and maintaining a depth of 40 
fathoms until well past the rocks; then steer up the gulf. 

With northerly winds the weather is usually clear; and, if far 
enough to windward, stand to the westward and endeavor to make 
Entry island, avoiding the reefs off the Magdalen islands by not ap- 


BIRD ROCKS TO ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


(35 


proaehing the islands in that part nearer than the depth of 20 
fathoms. Under the lee of these islands the sea is smooth, the sound¬ 
ings regular, and there is good sheltered anchorage in Pleasant bay. 

Having passed to leeward of the Magdalen islands with northerly 
or northwesterly winds the vessel will find the southwesterly wind, 
which usually follows, a fair wind toward cape Gaspe. 

Bird rocks to Anticosti island.—From northward of Bird rocks 
toward cape Gaspe, the southeasterly current should be considered. 
By consulting the chart it will be seen that the water is deep until 
near the shores of Anticosti, and that soundings may be obtained upon, 
and southwestward of, a line joining Bird rocks and cape Gaspe, 
while a few miles to the northeastward of that line the depths reach 
over 200 fathoms. 

With a fair wind make the lighthouse on Southwest point, Anti¬ 
costi ; with westerly winds, any part of the coast of that island which 
can be attained. The fixed white light on Heath point, at the east end 
of the island, renders it easy to make at night if the weather be clear; 
and if the weather be thick, the bank of soundings, that extends 23 
miles to the southeastward, may serve to determine the vessel’s posi¬ 
tion by the lead. 

Approaching Anticosti, especially from the eastward, soundings 
should be obtained until the position is accurately determined, as 
sometimes, owing to peculiar atmospheric conditions, that island is 
said to be difficult to distinguish, even when the weather is moderately 
clear. The loss of the steamers Titania and Brooklyn w’as ascribed to 
these causes. 

Northward of Anticosti island.—With a southwesterly wind, 
should East cape or the land in its vicinity be made, it is often pref¬ 
erable to proceed northward of Anticosti island, where there is a good 
channel, rather than to tack and stand to the southward and eastward. 
Under the lee of Anticosti, there is a smooth sea and often clear 
weather, while there may be a heavy swell and a thick fog to wind¬ 
ward of it. Also, the current out of the St. Lawrence, which with 
westerly winds runs constantly between the south shore of the gulf 
and Anticosti, is avoided by going northward of that island; and thus 
good wav can be made in moderate weather. At night, or in foggy 
weather, the bank of soundings off the north shore of the gulf is a 
safe guide, even although the land should not be visible, because from 
Natashkwan point to river St, John, westward of Mingan islands, 
banks of sand, gravel, broken shells, and bits of coral extend many 
miles offshore. Southward of these banks, and between them and 
Anticosti, there is a deep channel, in which, with the exception of the 
part northward of North point, Anticosti, the bottom is, for the most 
part, blue mud. Such a difference in the nature of the bottom, as 

50918—08 - 5 


66 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


well as in the depth of water, renders the navigation of this channel 
comparatively easy at night or in foggy weather. Soundings must be 
constantly taken, while running along the southern edge of the banks 
of sand, gravel, and shells, and a sheer must be made occasionally to 
the southward into the deep water and muddy bottom, so as not to 
get too far to the northward. For this purpose a sounding machine, 
which can be relied on, is essential. 

Great caution is necessary on approaching the very dangerous reefs 
off St. Genevieve and Hunting islands from the eastward, to keep on 
the southern edge of the banks, for there are deep soundings inside 
the outer banks, and these might lead to a mistake if caution is not 
used. 

The Mingan islands should not be closed to depths of less than 30 
fathoms; and at night or in thick weather the lead must be kept 
constantly going to insure keeping on the southern edge of the bank. 

With westerly winds the weather is clear, and the w T hite cliffs on 
the north side of Anticosti, which extend from East cape westward to 
West cliff opposite St. Genevieve island, will easily be seen and may 
be approached to within 2 miles, except in the vicinity of the reefs 
off Fox bay. To the westward of West cliff the coast is low and shelv¬ 
ing, and reefs extend farther off. When standing to the northward, 
the soundings on the banks will show when to tack. 

Currents.—(See page 49.) 

Southward of Anticosti.—With westerly winds make boards of 
9 to 12 miles off and on the southern coast of Anticosti, to avoid the 
current out of the St. Lawrence. In beating between Cormorant point 
and South point, beyond which at a distance of 2J miles and only 1 
mile offshore is a rock with 16 feet of water, keep the lighthouse on 
Heath point open of Cormorant point. Standing inshore at night 
in the neighborhood of Southwest point, keep the light on this point 
northward of 315°; when standing inshore to the westward of it, 
keep it eastward of 129°. In moderate weather a vessel will gen¬ 
erally gain ground to windward all along the southern coast of Anti¬ 
costi. From 4 or 5 miles off Southwest point, with a fair wind, steer 
along the coast so as to pass 8 or 10 miles southward and westward of 
cape Henry and West point. In thick w T eather the lead must be hove 
constantly, and a depth of 40 fathoms or upward must be main¬ 
tained, since .there are depths of less than 40 fathoms at a distance 
varying from 5 to 3 miles offshore between Southwest point and West 
point. 

Caution.—Avoid being becalmed near the land between South¬ 
west and West points, where both the swell and current set inshore, 
and where the bottom being of clean, flat limestone an anchor will 
not hold; and consequently it is necessary to stand offshore on the 


ANTICOSTI TO POINT DE MONTS. 


67 


first appearance of a decrease of wind. It is by no means uncommon 
oft this part of the coast for the fine-weather w T esterly breeze of sum¬ 
mer to die away suddenly to a calm with a smooth sea; but a heavy 
swell from the southwestward soon commences and continues some 
three or four hours before the appearance of the breeze which 
caused it. 

Anticosti to point de Monts.—The 100-fathom curve of sound¬ 
ings runs approximately from Southwest point to about 20 miles from 
the Seven islands, whence it follows the land at distances of about 7 to 
12 miles nearly to Trinity bay, and rounds point de Monts at a dis¬ 
tance of 2 to 4 miles. Northward of this line the depths are generally 
less, while to the southward they are much greater. This is useful 
in ascertaining the position of a vessel when light winds and fogs pre¬ 
vail for several days in succession and the land in consequence has 
not been seen. 

From oft West point with a fair wind, especially with northerly 
winds, steer well to the northward of point de Monts or for about 
Egg island, in order to avoid the strength of the current and being 
set over by it to the south shore. When about halfway across steer 
a more southerly course, and in clear weather make the lighthouse or 
light, which is situated at 1J miles northeastward of point de Monts. 
Point de Monts may be approached to f mile with safety, but not 
nearer in a large ship. 0 

Caution.—If the weather be thick, as it commonly is with a fair 
wind, great caution is necessary when running up; under such cir¬ 
cumstances, when within about 15 miles of point de Monts by the 
reckoning, steer a course to pass southward of the point, reduce sail, 
so as to have the vessel under complete command, and obtain sound¬ 
ings, keeping in deep water, so as to insure not being set to the north¬ 
eastward of the point. Continue these until the light is seen, the fog 
gun heard, or until it is certain that the vessel is past the point. 

Northeastward of Trinity bay there 'are depths of less than GO 
fathoms at from 4 to 6 miles offshore; directly off Trinity bay there 
is the same depth 3 miles offshore, while at 3 miles off point de Monts 
there is no bottom at 100 fathoms. Remember the situation of the 
light for point de Monts. 

Working to windward.—When beating up against westerly 
winds stand to the northward as soon as Anticosti is weathered, unless 
the barometer, or other indications, render it probable that the wind 
will become southerly. During the flood stream, make short boards 
off and on the north shore, and during the ebb keep farther off it, 
for the streams run strongest near the land. The streams, in general, 
are w T eak along this coast, and a vessel will always make v T ay to wind¬ 
ward in moderate weather. 


68 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


From Seven islands to point de Monts the westerly wind, which is- 
the most common wind hereabouts, is off the land, so that a vessel can 
frequently fetch up to point de Monts in smooth water, particularly 
at night, when the wind in fine weather generally veers one or two 
points to the northward. The flood stream also is favorable, while 
the ebb, being turned off by point de Monts, is scarcely felt. 

A good sailing vessel with the flood stream may work round point 
de Monts by making short boards off the point; but with strong winds 
and an adverse stream she must not attempt it. The best time to get 
round point de Monts, Avith westerly winds and fine weather, is at 
night or early in the morning, for then there is often a northerly 
wind. If a strong Avesterly wind prevailed during the preceding day, 
a heavy head sea may be expected off the point; this is probably caused 
by the flood stream setting along the land from the direction of the 
Seven islands, meeting the downward current off the point. If neces¬ 
sary to aAvait a favorable opportunity of passing the point, Trinity 
bay, AA T ith westerly Avincls, is a good anchorage, with moderate depth 
of water, good ground, and plenty of room to get under Avay. 

Point de Monts to Bicquette island—Tidal streams. —Above 
point de Monts the tidal streams and currents are much stronger, and 
more various in their direction than in the Avicler parts of the estuary 
to the eastward of it, and shoals extend in places se\ r eral miles off the 
north shore. Hence a good lookout and constant attention to the 
soundings are absolutely necessary at night or during the fogs, which 
are so prevalent and annoying in this locality. Under these conditions 
the courses to be steered above point de Monts vary under different 
circumstances of Avind and tide. 

During the ebb the downward stream is turned off to the south¬ 
ward, not only by point de Monts, but also by Manicouagan and Ber- 
simis points, though to a much less degree. To this effect must be 
added the streams out of the large Manicouagan, Outarde, and Ber- 
simis rivers. During the flood tide the streams out of these rivers 
cease, the general stream is checked in the offing, AAdiile inshore, within 
a feAV miles of the north coast, a flood stream is found. 

A vessel leaving point de Monts at the beginning of the ebb will be 
set toward the south shore much faster than one leaving at the com¬ 
mencement of the flood. 

With fair winds. —From 3 to 4 miles to the southAvard of point 
de Monts, with a fair easterly wind, steer 233° for a position 12 miles 
southAvard of Manicouagan shoal, then keep half a point more to the 
southward, 227°. These courses, if the vessel left point de Monts at 
or near the commencement of the ebb, will usually take her into 
soundings off Metis, where there is a depth of 30 fathoms over sandy 
bottom at 3 miles offshore, and 50 fathoms at 5 miles offshore; if 
she left the point early on the flood, she will probably be farther 


. POINT DE MONTS TO BICQUETTE ISLAND. 


69 


northward, but this may not be the case as the strength of the stream 
is uncertain. In thick weather keep sounding, and if there is no 
bottom at 60 fathoms, proceed until the vessel is up as high as Metis 
by the reckoning, and if still without bottom, haul gradually to the 
southward, under easy sail, and endeavor to strike soundings on the 
bank off Father point, which extends several miles offshore, and on 
it the soundings shoal more gradually to the southward than they do 
farther eastward. 

In clear weather from a position off Metis or Father point steer to 
pass about 2 miles northward of Bicquette island, the revolving light 
on which should be visible after having passed 2 miles beyond 
Father point; but in thick weather, keep sounding and run along the 
northern edge of the bank, being careful not to stand to the south¬ 
ward into less than 30 fathoms. When it is judged that the vessel 
is approaching near Bicquette island, having passed Barnabe, haul a 
little to the northward until out of soundings, and then steer 234°, still 
sounding, under moderate sail, so as to be sure of getting bottom, and 
making sure that the vessel is well above the Northwest reef of Bic¬ 
quette. If depths less than 30 fathoms are obtained, haul immedi¬ 
ately northward to a greater depth, and tlfen steer as before. Bic¬ 
quette island is very dangerous, and many vessels have been wrecked 
on it. Two miles north of Bicquette there are 30 fathoms, and only 
11 miles north of Northwest reef there is the same depth, with sandy 
bottom. Farther, off no bottom will be found at 50 or 60 fathoms. 
Both the island and the reef are bold to the northward, having 12 
fathoms close to them. 

When certainly past Bicquette island and its reefs, haul in to the 
southward by degrees, pick up the edge of the bank and keep on it up 
to Green Island reef, and it is not prudent, without a pilot or local 
knowledge, to attempt running inside of Bic island in thick weather. 
If it is absolutely necessary to do so for the purpose of anchoring, the 
directions for that locality should be followed. 

With southerly winds.—From off point de Monts with south¬ 
erly winds make a direct course, allowing for the set of stream to the 
southward, according to the tide, and, in thick weather, sounding. 
When the land can not be seen the object should always be to strike 
the bank of soundings along the south coast about Metis, or at the 
farthest Father point, and follow’ it as a guide to the westward. 

With northerly winds.—The weather with these winds is in¬ 
variably clear, and the land can be seen, but the rate of the stream to 
the southward is increased, and therefore the vessel must keep well to 
the northward, steering 243° to prevent being set over to the lee 
shore, and obliged to tack should the wind veer one or tv r o points to 
the westward. If bearings of Point de Monts light, which must be 
taken and plotted frequently, indicate that the stream is setting very 


70 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


fast to the southward, as it probably will, particularly during the ebb, 
haul still farther north, but do not approach too near the Manicoua- 
gan shoals. This may be avoided by taking care not to bring the 
light to bear to the eastward of 53°. 

When past these extensive shoals, observing that Manicouagan point 
can seldom be clearly distinguished at night in consequence of the 
higher land behind it, haul up and run along the north shore at a dis¬ 
tance of not less than 3 miles, avoiding the shoals which extend off it. 

With foul winds—Working to Green island. —Westerly winds 
are almost always accompanied with clear weather; there is then 
little difficulty, other than that which arises from the set of the tidal 
streams. 

From point de Monts, during the flood, make short boards off the 
north shore up to cape St. Nicholas. Do not, however, keep this 
shore close aboard farther to the westward, lest the wind should fail, 
for there is a strong indraft toward the mouth of Manicouagan river 
during the flood stream; and if an easterly wind should spring up 
when near the mouth of English bay, difficulty would be experienced 
in beating out or in weathering the eastern side of the Manicouagan 
shoals. It will be well here to remember that the light on point de 
Monts can not be seen on any bearing to the eastward of 70°, being 
intercepted by the high land to the westward of it, and when it dis¬ 
appears a vessel off Godbout river will be only H miles from the 
bar, or off cape St. Nicholas 21 miles offshore. It is therefore a 
safe rule when standing inshore at night to tack as soon as the light 
bears 60°. 

At the commencement of the ebb, stretch over into the middle of 
the estuary, where that stream is less strong than near either shore, 
but do not go farther southward than the middle and be sure to come 
again off the north shore at the commencement of the flood. 

After passing point de Monts in the morning with a northerly land 
wind, and there are signs of its failing or veering to the westward 
as the day advances, continue the board to the southward and west¬ 
ward, instead of tacking to. keep the north shore on board, as directed 
when the wind is blowing right down; for the night land wind will 
probably be succeeded by the fine weather day wind, which usually 
becomes a steady breeze about 9 a. m., after commencing at south¬ 
west, and thus affords an advantageous board northwards. 

In fine summer weather the wind usually veers by degrees during 
the day to west-southwest and west, thus offering a good board south¬ 
ward. Mariners with local experience of the winds and weather 
frequently gain more ground westward by calculating upon these 
probable changes of the wind than by keeping on the north shore out 
of the current. 


CAUTION. 


71 


With the exception of the low points of Manicouagan, Bersimis, and 
Mille Yaches, the land on both sides of the river can in general be 
plainly seen at night during the continuance of westerly winds; and 
where its features are sufficiently remarkable there will be little 
difficulty in making it out. Mount Camille, especially, being an 
isolated mountain 2,036 feet above high water, is easily distinguished, 
as well as the summit of the High land of Bic, 1,236 feet high. 
Their bearings will often be of great service to vessels on clear nights, 
and will show when they are high enough to fetch Father point. 

On arriving off Father point, or anywhere between it and Bic, at 
the end of the flood stream and with a light wind, anchor on the bank 
of soundings, weighing again, if there be a breeze, in sufficient time 
to stand over and meet the first of the flood on the north shore. By 
so doing much more ground is gained to the westward than by re¬ 
maining on the south shore, for although there is a weak stream of 
flood upon the bank of soundings from Father point to Bic island, 
there is little above that island, and none after the first quarter flood, 
excepting so close inshore as to be useless to large vessels. 

From Mille Yaches bay to within 3 miles of the entrance of 
Saguenay river, with the exception of Mille Yaches shoals and a 
shoal extending a short distance offshore from the bay next west¬ 
ward of cape Bondesir, the north coast is moderately high and very 
bold, the flood is strong, and the ebb comparatively weak. Therefore 
make short boards along this shore until up to Bergeron coves, and 
then stretch over to the anchorage under Green Island reef, to wait 
for the next flood, for it will require a whole tide, even with a good 
working breeze and a fair sailing vessel, to beat through between 
Green island and Bed islet and reach good anchorage above before 
the ebb makes. 

Caution.— In standing across from the north shore beware of 
Bed Islet bank, which extends 2| miles northeastward from the low 
shingle islet of the same name. 

This bank is ver'y dangerous, and the first of the flood sets strongly 
over it out of Bergeron coves somewhat toward Green island. The 
ebb out of Saguenay river also sets upon the bank. If a vessel can 
not fetch the anchorage under Green Island reef she may anchor any¬ 
where in fine weather along the south bank between Bic and Green 
islands, and will have good ground in 12 fathoms at low water and 
plenty of room to get under way. 

The channel to the north of Bed islet should not be attempted by 
strangers unless there is every evidence that the wind w T ill hold brisk, 
for if the wind should fall calm the vessel would run great risk of 
being drawn in by the stream of flood among the dangerous shoals 
off the mouth of Saguenay or being set down upon Bed Islet bank 


72 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


when the rapid ebb made out of that river. This ebb is so strong 
and the water so deep that no anchor will hold. 

To pass to southward of Red islet with a northwest wind haul 
round the east end of the reef and as clos' to the southward of it as 
is prudent, coming no nearer than a depth of 20 fathoms until past 
the islet. 

Down the estuary and gulf. —Little needs to be added to the 
information that may be gathered from the charts and the proper 
application of the directions for going up the gulf and the estuary. 
With fair winds and clear weather keep a moderate distance off the 
southern shore after passing Bicquette island. But with easterly winds 
and thick weather anywhere above point de Monts, great caution and 
attention to the soundings and set of the tidal streams and currents 
are necessary to insure safety, particularly during the long nights 
and stormy weather in the fall of the year. 

In proceeding down the St. Lawrence, after passing Green island, 
if the fair wind fails and an easterly wind is experienced before ar¬ 
riving near Bic island, run up to Brandy Pots, especially if late or 
very early in the navigable season. But if far enough down at the 
commencement of the adverse wind, Bic island affords good shelter 
and anchorage, which should be obtained in time, before the fog com¬ 
mences. 

There is no anchorage lower down which can be recommended 
nearer than Seven islands, and after that Gaspe. 

When beating down, the south bank is the guide in thick weather 
or at night; tack from it, after striking soundings on its edge, and 
do not stand to the northward more than half-channel over in order 
to keep in the strength of the downward stream, and avoid the 
vicinity of the shoals off the north shore. 

Effects of tides. —When upon the south bank of soundings there 
is much less sea than in the deep water and strength of the weather 
current outside, and usually there is a strong ripple at the edge of 
the bank during the flood stream. 

In the board from near Bicquette island the flood stream sets 
rather to the northward, whilst the ebb sets rather to the southward. 
Above Razade islets both streams set to the southward. Lower down 
the estuary, and as far down as cape Ste. Anne, the ebb stream 
usually sets rather to the southward, whilst during the flood there 
is an indraft into the rivers on approaching the north shore from 
Bersimis point nearly down to cape St. Nicholas. 

Caution. —When beating down on a dark night or thick weather, 
soundings must be constantly obtained to insure safety; when ap¬ 
proaching the south shore, in the board to the southward, reduce sail 
sufficiently for soundings, to be easily taken, and have everything in 


BELOW POINT DE MONTS. 


73 


readiness to tack or wear at the shortest notice. These precautions 
become the more necessary as the vessel descends the estuary, and the 
bank of soundings becomes narrower till, eastward of Matane, it 
ceases to be of use. Off Matane there are 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, 
li miles offshore, and GO fathoms 3 miles off, while no bottom will be 
found at 100 fathoms only 5 miles off. Off‘cape Chat there are 30 
fathoms of water but little more than £ mile from shore; there is no 
bottom at 70 fathoms a little farther off, and then as far as the point 
de Monts there are from 150 to 170 fathoms, blue mud bottom. 

Below point de Monts there is plenty of sea room, and although 
the lead there is of little use, yet the south coast is so high and bold 
that it may generally be seen, if the fog be no thicker than is usual 
with a regular easterly wind up the St. Lawrence. 

Lower down still, with an adverse wind and thick weather, sound¬ 
ings may be struck off the western end of Anticosti, or between the 
West and Southwest points of that island, in order to ascertain how 
far the vessel is over to the northward. The bank of soundings off 
the south side of Anticosti, between Southwest. point and Pavilion 
river, is very narrow; but from Pavilion river to Heath point, there 
is plenty of warning by the deep-sea lead. 

The channel northward of Anticosti ,is not recommended when out¬ 
ward bound from the St. Lawrence, because there is not only less 
room, but also less current in favor; nor is the route by the strait of 
Belle Isle, on account of the straggling icebergs, which are generally 
to be met with there through all the navigable season. Toward the 
fall of the year, however, vessels occasionally pass through it, in antici¬ 
pation of the northerly winds which prevail at that season in the 
Atlantic. 

Particular descriptions of the shore or places alluded to in these 
general directions, together with directions for the harbors, anchor¬ 
ages, rocks, shoals etc., are given in the following chapters. 


CHAPTER II. 


ISEANDS IX THE GULF OF 8T. LA VVREXCE—ST. PAUL 

ISLAND — BIRO BOCKS — BRYON ISLAND — MAGDALEN 

ISEAXDS—AXTICOSTI ISLAND. 

Variation in 190S. 

St. Paul island 25° 47' W. | East cape, Anticosti island 27° 15' W. 

Southwest point, Anticosti island 26° 37' W. 

St. Paul island, in Cabot strait, the main entrance to the gulf of 
St. Lawrence, between the southwestern extreme of Newfoundland 
and the northern extreme of Cape Breton island, is composed of 
primary rocks, principally mica slate, dipping at an angle of about 
45° to the southward. It is 3 miles long, north-northeast and south- 
southwest, and nearly 1 mile broad. Its north-northeastern point 
is a small detached rock (although it appears connected from the 
sea), separated by a very narrow channel from a peninsula, albout 
400 feet high, which, together with the isthmus joining it to the body 
of the island, is so precipitous as to be nearly inaccessible. The re¬ 
maining and greater part of the island is also steep and precipitous 
toward the sea, and rises in two parallel ranges of hills, that on the 
southeastern coast being the higher and attaining an elevation of 500 
feet. 

In a valley running between these hills are two ponds at some 250 
feet above the sea; these ponds supply a stream, which is about 6 feet 
wide, and flows into the sea in the southern part of Trinity cove; its 
water is of a yellowish-brown color, but of good taste and is whole¬ 
some. There’ are several other much smaller runs of water, one of which 
enters Atlantic cove. Trinity cove is on the western and Atlantic 
cove on the eastern side of the island, each being nearly 1 mile from 
its south-southwestern point; and they afford the only shelter for 
boats and the only good landing on the island, which is easier of 
ascent from them than from any other part. The island is partly 
wooded with dwarf and scrubby spruce trees, which are of no use 
except for fuel. 

The island belongs to the province of Nova Scotia. 

Half a mile off the island the water becomes deep, so that in ap¬ 
proaching it in foggy weather there is little or no warning by the 


74 



ST. PAUL ISLAND. 


75 


lead. Although the island is so bold and high, many shipwrecks, at¬ 
tended with loss of life, have occurred upon it. 

The varying tidal streams and currents add much to the danger 
arising from the fogs, which prevail in southerly, easterly, and often 
in southwesterly winds. 

Provision depot.— A depot of provisions, furnished by the gov¬ 
ernment of the Dominion of Canada, for the relief of shipwrecked 
persons, is on the northern point of Trinity cove, where there is also 
a dwelling house for the men in charge and a store. Fish are plen¬ 
tiful around the island. 

Anchorage. —Small fishing vessels anchor off Trinity and Atlan¬ 
tic coves, with offshore winds, at 400 yards from the rocks, in 10 to 12 
fathoms, sand and gravel bottom. In very fine weather large vessels 
might ride with a stream anchor, at about J mile offshore, in 25 to 30 
fathoms; but such vessels must be ready to weigh at the first sign of 
a change of weather. 

Atlantic cove—Tide gauge house.— A white tide gauge house 
which is conspicuous from seaward, stands about 40 feet above high- 
water mark on the western shore of Atlantic cove. 

Beacons. —Two beacons with white circular tops are on the hill 
in the bight of the cove above the tide gauge house, and in line, bear¬ 
ing 299°, lead well clear of Big Dick rock, a detached rock on which 
the sea breaks heavily, lying off the northeastern point of the cove. 
There are also two diamond-shaped white beacons about 70 yards 
eastward of the superintendent’s house, which in line, bearing 344°, 
lead clear of the foul ground off the southeastern point of the cove, 
and indicate the best anchorage in 18 fathoms where their alignment 
intersects that of the two above-mentioned circular-topped beacons. 

These beacons are intended for the guidance of vessels calling at 
the cove with supplies and mails as Avell as for small schooners and 
fishing vessels. 

Lights.— There are two lighthouses on St. Paul island, one on the 
detached rock at its north-northeastern point, and th£ other on its 
south-southwestern point. 

Norheast Point lighthouse, a white, octagonal, wooden tower 40 
feet high, exhibits at 140 feet above high water a fixed white light, 
which should be seen from seaward in clear weather, a distance of 18 
miles, except between 349° and 40°, when it is obscured by the island. 

Southwest Point lighthouse, also a white, octagonal, wooden tower 
40 feet high, exhibits at 140 feet above high water a revolving white 
light which attains its greatest brilliancy every minute, and should be 
seen from seaward, in clear weather, a distance of 18 miles, except 
between 129° and 248°, when it is obscured by the island. 


76 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWKENCE. 


Both the lights are extinguished whenever navigation is closed, 
without reference to any dates. Northeast light is exhibited as late 
in the season as there are any vessels crossing to Newfoundland, and 
it is resumed in March if any sealing is being done in the neighbor¬ 
hood of the island, although there may be no other traffic. 

Fog signal.— During thick weather or in snowstorms a steam 
fog whistle, on the southwestern side of Atlantic cove, is sounded for 
5 seconds in every minute. The fog-signal building is of wood, 
painted brown, and the whistle is about 137 feet above high water. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a telegraph 
and signal station at the main establishment on St. Paul island, on 
the northeastern point of Atlantic cove, about 300 yards eastward of 
the superintendent’s house. 

There is no signal station at either of the lighthouses, and signals 
made that are not visible from the Atlantic cove station are not for¬ 
warded. Therefore, in communicating with this station the signals 
should be made from positions that are visible from Atlantic cove 
and well clear of the cliffs either northward or southward. 

This signal station is included in Lloyd’s system. 

The telegraph cable runs from the island to Meat cove, at the 
northern end of Cape Breton island. A land wire crosses the island 
from Atlantic cove to Trinity cove. 

Ice report. —This signal station is supplied with information as 
to ice, winds, temperature, and weather indications, which it com¬ 
municates by signal to vessels requesting it. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at St. Paul island at 
8h. 40m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 3 feet. Tide tables for St. Paul 
island are published by the Canadian department of marine and 
fisheries. 

Life-saving station. —A lifeboat and a Lyle gun are maintained 
at St. Paul island. 

Bird rocks, lying about 314°, 55 miles from St. Paul island, are 
two rocks of coarse red sandstone, or conglomerate, in strata, dipping 
very slightly to the southwest, and are constantly diminishing in size 
from the action of the sea. Although they present perpendicular 
cliffs on every side, it is possible with great difficulty to ascend them in 
one or two places; but there is no landing upon them except in the 
calmest sea. Every ledge and fissure of the cliffs is occupied by 
gannets, and the summits of both rocks are covered with them. The 
white plumage of these birds gives the rocks the appearance of being 
capped with snow, and renders them visible in a clear and moonlight 
night from the distance of about 7 miles. 

The two rocks bear from each other 306° and 126° and are 1,400 
yards apart, but owing to sunken rocks there is only a boat passage 


BIRD ROCKS. 


77 


between. Great Bird, the southeastern rock, is less than 400 yards 
long, and 105 feet high. North Bird, the smaller and lower rock, is 
divided into two precipitous mounds joined by a low ledge, the lesser 
of the mounds resembling a tower. A reef extends 1,400 yards north¬ 
eastward from North Bird rock, and there is a patch of breakers 
nearly midway and rather southwestward of the line drawn between 
the rocks. Great Bird rock is quite bold, excepting toward North 
Bird rock. North Bird rock bears 34°, distant 16^ miles from East 
point, Magdalen islands, and 72° 11 miles from the eastern extreme 
of Bryon island. 

Light. —On the summit of Great Bird rock a white hexagonal 
wooden tower, 39 feet high, exhibits, at 140 feet above high water, an 
intermittent white light every 20 seconds, thus—light, 15 seconds, 
eclipse, 5 seconds, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
18 miles. The keeper's dwelling, painted white, is near the light¬ 
house. The International code flags are kept here to enable the keeper 
to make known his wants. 

Fog signal. —During thick weather and in snowstorms a diaphone 
trumpet, operated by compressed air, sounds 1 blast of 5 seconds dura¬ 
tion every 2 minutes. 

The fog-signal building is a square, wooden structure, painted 
white, with the roof red. The trumpet, elevated 120 feet above high 
water, projects from the eastern gable of the building. 

Should the diaphone become disabled, cotton-powder bombs will 
be exploded at intervals of 10 minutes. If a vessel’s fog signal is 
heard in dangerous proximity an additional shot will be fired imme¬ 
diately, and the firing will be continued at intervals of 5 minutes 
until the vessel has passed the station. 

Soundings. —The soundings eastward of Bird rocks afford ample 
warning to vessels in foggy weather. Between the rocks and East 
point. Magdalen islands, the depth is generally 14 to 17 fathoms, with 
a bottom of reddish sand, and frequently sea eggs. 

Caution. —Between Bird rocks and Bryon island there is a ridge 
of rocky and foul ground, on some parts of which there is said to 
be as little as 4 fathoms water, because bottom has been seen in calm 
weather. Although not less than 7 fathoms has been found, shoaler 
spots may exist, and a vessel of deep draft should not cross this ridge, 
especially when there is much sea running. The two cliffy points 
on the north side of Bryon island, in line, lead over the northern limit 
of this rocky ground. 

Bryon island is rather more than 4 miles long, east and west, with 
an extreme breadth of rather less than 1 mile; its eastern end bears 
from East point, Magdalen islands, 355°, 10J miles; its western end 
bears from North cape, Grosse isle, 2°, 9 miles. It nowhere exceeds a 


78 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


height of 200 feet above the sea; the cliffs on the north side are much 
higher than those on the south, where there are several small coves in 
which boats njay land easily with offshore winds. 

This island is formed of alternating and nearly horizontal strata of 
red sandstone, red ocherous clay, and shaly gray sandstone. These 
rocks are soft and friable, forming perpendicular or overhanging 
cliffs nearly all round the island, which are broken in holes and cav¬ 
erns by the action of the waves. The soil is similar to that of Magda¬ 
len islands. A great part of the island is wooded with dwarf spruce 
trees, and there is a large upland tract covered with good native grass. 
There are a few inhabitants on this island who raise good crops, as 
well as cattle and sheep. 

Light. —An octagonal white lighthouse, with a red lantern, 49 feet 
high, situated about 200 yards from the extremity of the western point 
of Bryon island, exhibits, at 126 feet above high water, a flashing 
white light showing a group of four flashes separated by intervals of 
5 seconds, followed by an eclipse of 15 seconds, the total period being 
30 seconds. The light should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
19 miles, and it is visible in all directions except where obscured by 
trees and the high land of the island to the eastward. 

Reefs extend nearly f mile northeastward of the eastern end of 
Bryon island, 1^ miles westward of its western end, and 1^ miles 
southward of the sandy point in the middle of its western part. 
There are no marks for clearing these reefs, but bearings afford suffi¬ 
cient guidance. From the southern ridge of the southern reef, Bryon 
island subtends an angle of 97°, and the reef may be passed with the 
island subtending any less angle. The southern reef turns off much 
of the sea from the roadstead eastward of it, in which there is anchor¬ 
age in 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, at 1 mile or more from the shore, with 
winds from north-northeast, round by north, to west. Small vessels 
during northwest gales lie at anchor close under the reef. 

Shoals. —There are regular soundings from 9 to 11 fathoms, sandy 
bottom, between Bryon island and East island and Grosse island, 
with the exception of an extensive patch of foul and rocky ground, 
lying between 3J and 5J miles, 222°, from the west end of Bryon 
island, and which has a clear channel on either side of it. Though 
the fishermen see bottom upon this patch in calm weather, not less 
than 5 fathoms have been found on it, and it is not believed to have 
less water; as, however, there may be shoaler spots, it should not be 
passed over by vessels of deep draft, especially when there is a 
heavy sea running. 

Fishing grounds.— Rocky places are called fishing grounds by 
the inhabitants of Magdalen islands, because codfish abound upon 
them; one of these, having 11 fathoms water, lies 2£ miles northward 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


79 


of Bryon island and extends a considerable distance parallel to the 
island. There is sandy bottom and deeper water south of this ridge, 
with anchorage in fine weather and southerly winds, off the bay on 
the north side of the island. Soundings extend so far off Bryon 
island in every direction that it can be passed safely by using the 
lead; but great caution is requisite in approaching the reefs, for they 
are very steep, especially the southern reef. 

Water is neither plentiful nor easy to be obtained at Bryon island, 
but it may be had in small quantities by digging, and there is a spring 
on the north side of the narrow isthmus which joins the eastern 
peninsula to the remainder of the land. 

Telegraph cables. —Bryon island is connected with Grosse isle 
and also with Heath point, Anticosti, by telegraph cables, and is thus 
in telegraphic connection with the mainland. 

Magdalen islands. —These islands are of an irregular, curved . 
shape, the greatest length of which, from Southwest cape, Amherst 
island, to East point, is 35 miles; but if the smaller isles be included, 
the direction and length from Deadman islet to Great Bird rock 
are 51°, 56 miles. 

The central parts of these islands rise into hills, with rounded and 
frequently dome-shaped summits, attaining elevations of 200 to 580 
feet above the sea, and are in general of igneous or trap rocks. 
Around these hills are stratified deposits of sandstone and ocherous 
clays, with gypsum in the hollows and basins, and occasionally in 
veins. No rock salt has been found, but the water of many springs 
and small streams is so saline as to be nearly unfit for use. 

G} r psum forms an article of commerce, and some valuable ocherous 
pigments are found, but the inhabitants depend principally upon the 
cod fishery. Herring and seal fisheries are prosecuted to a limited 
extent. 

The islands are partly wooded, but the trees are small, and mostly 
spruce, juniper, birch, and Canadian poplar. The unwooded parts 
produce good grass and afford pasturage for cattle and sheep, which, 
as well as ponies, are fairly numerous. The only wild animals are 
foxes and hares. The general character of the soil is sterile, for al¬ 
though good vegetable mold may occasionally be met with, yet it is 
usually only a few inches in depth, having beneath it either the rock 
or siliceous and ferruginous sands. 

The climate is severe; not quite so cold as at Quebec in winter, but 
less warm in summer. Rain, and especially fogs, are extremely fre¬ 
quent, and without this humid atmosphere the islands would not 
have the little fertility that they possess, as the dry and meager soil 
requires copious and continual supplies of moisture. 

From a distance seaward the Magdalen islands appear like several 
hilly islands, with channels between, but, on a nearer approach, they 


80 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


are seen to be connected together, with the exception of Entry island, 
by a double line of sand bars and beaches .that inclose extensive la¬ 
goons, having very narrow entrances, by which the tide finds access 
and egress. These sand bars are in some parts only a few feet above 
the sea, while in others they rise into hills of blown sand, having con¬ 
siderable elevation. They appear to be increasing, since there are 
generally ridges of sand with from 9 to 12 feet water parallel to, and 
from 100 to 200 yards beyond, the beach. In some places there are 
depths of 3 to 4 fathoms water between these ridges and the shore, 
a circumstance that has often proved fatal to the crews of wrecked 
vessels. 

In a bright sunny day the cliffs of various colors, in which different 
shades of red predominate, the yellow of the sand bars contrasted 
with the green pastures of the hillsides, the darker green of the 
spruce trees, and the blue of sea and sky, produce an extremely beau¬ 
tiful effect, and one which distinguishes these islands from anything 
else in the gulf of St. Lawrence. In stormy weather the appearance 
is equally characteristic; then isolated hills and craggy cliffs are 
dimly seen through the rain and mist which accompan}^ an easterly 
gale, and they appear joined by long ranges of breakers, which almost 
hide the sand bars. At such times it is dangerous to attempt making 
the islands, for in approaching the lower parts the breakers would 
probably be the first thing seen. During autumn, when thick weather 
and easterly gales are prevalent, a good many small craft are wrecked. 

Harbors.— The islands possess no harbors for ships, but Amherst, 
House, and Grand Entry harbors are suitable for small vessels. 

Bird rocks and Magdalen islands belong to the province of Quebec. 

Inhabitants.— According to a census taken in 1891, there were 
upon Magdalen islands 4,942 inhabitants, who are distributed on 
Amherst, Grindstone, and Alright islands, except a few families dis¬ 
tributed among Entry island, Grosse isle, Bryon island, and East 
island. 

In 1896 the population of Amherst island was about 4,500; onty two 
families on the island were English, the remainder being of French 
extraction. The community is very healthy and there is no doctor 
among them. There are several churches and schools, and a court of 
justice and jail combined. 

French is generally spoken on Amherst. The other islands are 
peopled mostly by English-speaking inhabitants. 

Seals. —During the spring the fishermen leave the islands for seal 
hunting on the ice of the gulf. Thousands of seals which are driven 
on the ice to the islands by winds are killed by the inhabitants. Seals 
are also taken by nets in Pleasant bay. 

Communication. —In the navigable season there is a steamer 
service with Magdalen islands twice a week from Pictou, calling at 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


81 


Souris and once a week at Georgetown; Amherst is the first stopping 
place. There was no communication by vessel from December 15, 
1895, to April 9, 1896. The islands are connected with Cape Breton 
island and Bryon island by telegraph cables, and a system of tele¬ 
graph lines extends throughout Magdalen islands group, except to 
Entry island. 

Supplies. —Limited supplies of fresh provisions may be obtained, 
especially at Entry island, and water most? readily from Amherst 
harbor, either from a spring, which issues from under Demoiselle hill, 
or from a small stream which falls into Cabane bay, near Southwest 
cape, Amherst island. Wood for fuel is scarce near the settlements. 
Large spars are not to be had, unless they chance to be saved from 
wrecks; but there are small ones, of spruce and juniper. The last, of 
which the inhabitants build their fishing boats and shallops or small 
schooners, somewhat resembles larch wood; it is said to be exceed¬ 
ingly strong and durable. 

East point, the northeastern extreme of Magdalen islands proper, 
is of low sand, inclosing several shallow ponds, and having several 
sand hills, some of which are near its extremity, while others, inland 
on the margin of the northeastern part of Great lagoon, are of 
greater elevation and extend in a chain nearly to Northeast cape. 
Northeast cape is a hill on East island, at the head of Grand Entry 
harbor; it is a good landmark, its isolated cliffs, 230 feet high, being 
visible over all the sand hills and sand bars; and when these last are 
below the horizon the cape appears to be the eastern extremity of the 
chain of islands. 

Long spit. —A ridge of sand, with 2 to 3 fathoms water over it, 
extends about 112°, rather more than 14 miles from East point, and 
for 1J miles farther in the same direction there is a depth of from 4 to 
6 fathoms. The tidal streams set rapidly over this spit, and, together 
with the shoal water, cause a heavy, breaking sea, making it very 
dangerous. When near it keep an anchor clear. 

Leading marks. —The southern part of Coffin island is a penin¬ 
sula, forming the southern shore of Oyster pond, and connected to 
the remainder of the island by a low neck or isthmus at the west 
end of the pond. The southeastern tangent of this peninsula, in line 
with Old Harry head, 235°, leads over the end of the spit in 3 
fathoms; the north side of the peninsula, in line with Old Harry 
head, 241°, clears the spit in 4 fathoms, and the north shore of Oyster 
pond, in line with Old Harry head, 246°, clears the spit £ mile in 6 
fathoms. 

The summit of North cape, in line with the eastern side of North¬ 
east cape, 287°, leads nearly 1 mile southward of the spit and clear of 
Doyle reef. 

50918—08-6 


82 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWBENCE. 


Doyle reef, 105°, distant 6J miles from East point, consists of 
pointed rocks; it is 600 yards long and 100 yards wide within the 
depth of 6 fathoms. The least water is 3 fathoms on one spot nearly 
in the middle, and there are 12 and 13 fathoms all round it. North 
cape, open two-thirds of its breadth northward of Northeast cape, 
279°, leads over the reef; and from the reef the angle between North 
cape and the western point of Coffin island is 24J°; and that between 
the southern tangent ot the southern peninsula of Coffin island and 
North cape is 26°. 

Lying directly in the way of vessels and very seldom showing, 
because the sea breaks upon it only in heavy gales, Doyle reef is one 
of the worst dangers off Magdalen islands. 

Old Harry head, the eastern point of Coffin island, is formed of 
red sandstone cliffs of moderate height, with a reef extending off 
it nearly 800 yards southeastward. The sandy bay between the head 
and East point is 4J miles across, and has sheltered anchorage in all 
winds from west-southwest, round by north, to north-northeast; 
but it is not recommended, because a vessel there is very much! 
embayed by the shoals on either side, and it might be difficult to get 
out on the occurrence of a shift of wind either at night or during a 

fog- , 

Telegraph office. —There is a telegraph office at Old Harry cove. 

Columbine shoals. —The outermost of these shoals is a patch of 
rocks, with 3 fathoms over it, bearing 182°, 2J miles from Old Harry 
head. Within this patch, and also toward Coffin island, are numer¬ 
ous small shoal patches and pointed rocks, on some of which there 
are not more than 3 feet at low water. They are very dangerous 
and much in the way of vessels hauling round East point with 
northerly winds. 

The high Northeast cape, open for its whole breadth eastward of 
Old Harry head, 349°, leads eastward of the shoals; East point, 
bearing northward of 21°, leads southeastward of the shoals; and 
the western end of Coffin island, northward of 300°, leads westward, 
but this bearing will not clear the foul ground extending about J 
mile off Coffin island. On the outer edge of the shoals the angle 
between Old Harry head and the western end of Coffin island is 
77°; with these points subtending any less angle, a vessel will pass 
outside of the shoals. The use of the sextant with this angle is the 
surest and safest method of passing them. 

Coffin island extends 4 miles southwestward of Old Harry head, 
and on its southern side has a lagoon with a very narrow outlet, 
named Oyster pond, which boats can enter only in fine weather. 
There are several rocks and foul ground besides Columbine shoals 
off the coast of the island. This part of the island is verv dangerous 
and should not be approached at night nor in foggy weather. 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


83 


Grand Entry harbor. —The entrance of this harbor, which is 
about 200 yards in width, lies between the western end of Coffin 
island and the sand bars westward of that island. There is water 
enough in the harbor for vessels of moderate size; but the narrow 
channel leading to the entrance between sandy shoals, which are said 
to shift after heavy gales, extends 1.2 miles, 220°, from the entrance. 
The least depth in the channel was about 12 feet at low water in 
1901; there are 28 feet water at, and immediately within, the en¬ 
trance. The ebb stream runs out with great rapidity, and the flood 
in is also strong. xVlong the northern side of the spit running north¬ 
ward from the western end of Coffin island there are a number of 
white fishing houses with black roofs, which are conspicuous when 
open clear of Coffin island. Running off the same side of the spit 
are some fishing wharves and a pier with a depth of 10 to 12 feet 
at its outer end at low water. The eastern end of the sand bar on the 
western side of the entrance is marked by three large, old fishing 
buildings. 

Telegraph office. —There is a telegraph office at Grand Entry. 

Light.— A white pole, 30 feet high, which has a white shed with a 
red roof at its base, on the northwestern extreme of the sand spit run¬ 
ning northward from the western end of Coffin island, exhibits at 29 
feet above high water, a fixed red light which should be visible in 
clear weather a distance of 4 miles in the channel approach. 

Buoys. —The southwestern end of the entrance channel into Grand 
Entry harbor is marked by a red can buoy, moored in 15 feet, at 
about 223°, 1.2 miles from the pole light. 

Between this buoy and the pole light the channel is marked with 
six black spar buoys to be left on the port hand, and four red spar 
buoys and one red barrel buoy to be left on the starboard hand enter¬ 
ing. These buoys are moved to suit the channel, which is liable to 
change. 

There is also a black spar buoy near a 4-foot shoal at about 400 feet, 
25° from the pole light. This buoy is for the purpose of marking 
the north edge of the channel into the fishing wharves on the north 
end of the sand spit. 

Directions. —The channel into the harbor should be attempted 
only with a leading wind, flood stream, and fine weather. Keep to 
the buoys. 

Lagoon. —Within the harbor there is a large expanse of water, 
from 1 to 3 fathoms deep, extending northeastward to the southern 
sides of Grosse island, and communicating b}^ a narrow channel with 
a large shallow pond, which passes Northeast cape, and extends to 
within about 2 miles of East point. This great lagoon also extends 
southwestward, between a double line of sand bars, to Grindstone 


84 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWKENCE. 


island, and is, in all, 23 miles long, and from \ mile to 3 miles wide. 
Throughout its whole extent, quite sheltered from the sea, there is 
a communication for boats at high water. There are at present three 
entrances into this lagoon from the sea; namely, Grand Entry harbor; 
another 34 miles westward which is very shallow, and House harbor, 
near its southwestern extremity, between Alright and Grindstone 
islands. There were formerly others, which have closed since 1778. 
On the other hand, the second mentioned above opened after that 
time. * 

There are a few families in the vicinity of Northeast cape who 
breed cattle. 

Shag island, lying off the southeast coast of Magdalen islands, out 
of the way of vessels, about 4 mile from the sand bars, and nearly 
midway between Coffin and Alright islands, is small, low, and com¬ 
posed of sandstone. 

Cape Alright, Alright island, 230°, 16^ miles from Old Harry 
head, is the southeastern headland of Alright island, and makes a 
good landmark. The cliffs along the coast of the island of a general 
grayish-white color, with some places low down of brick-red, are 400 
feet high at their highest part, which is about 1 mile northeastward 
of the cape, and those westward of the cape, toward House harbor, 
are also high, and of the same color. Nearly 1 mile inland, north of 
the cape, is the summit of Alright island, 420 feet above the sea. 
Between this summit and the cape there is a remarkable hill named 
la butte Ronde. The south extreme of the cape is low, with a small 
rock close off it. 

Point a Elie is the extreme southeastern point of the island. A 
steamer calls here for mails and freight, and also for shelter in north¬ 
easterly gales. A landing pier and breakwater, lately built, give 
good shelter from all directions, and especially from the easterly 
gales that prevail in spring. 

Alright reef, the outer edge of which lies 80°, 2 >\ miles from cape 
Alright, is 800 yards long, 600 yards wide, and is composed of white 
pointed rocks with a least depth of 6 feet. From the reef, la butte 
Ronde is in line with the summit of Grindstone island, 262°, the 
southern side of cape Alright is in line with the southern side of 
cape Meule, 256°, and the woody Wolf island is just open westward 
of Shag island 2°. The well-marked summit of Grindstone island, 
open southwestward of cape Alright 267°, leads southwestward; and 
the eastern side of the woods of Wolf island (seen over the sand bars), 
open eastward of Shag island 354°, leads eastward of this reef. 

Entry island lies 7 miles south-southeastward of cape Alright, and 
between them is the entrance into Pleasant bay. 

Pearl reef, small and dangerous, of white pointed rocks, is round, 
about 400 yards in diameter, with a least depth of 8 feet on it, and 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


85 


even with a moderate swell the sea breaks heavily upon it. From the 
reef the northeastern point of Entry island bears 237°, distant 4^ 
miles; cape Alright bears 297°, distant 8£ miles. The southeast 
tangent Entry island 126°, the northwest tangent 242°, Demoiselle 
hill is in line with the extremity of the northwestern spit, above 
water, of Entry island 243° (this spit, however, can seldom be seen 
from the reef), and the three high cliffs on the southwestern side 
of Alright island are nearly in line, bearing 294°. Hence, all the 
cliffs open lead westward; and the northwestern cliff completely shut 
in behind the other two leads eastward, Demoiselle hill shut in by 
the north side of Entry island 246° leads southward; and Demoiselle 
hill kept an angle of more than 6° open northward of Entry island 
leads northw r ard of the reef. 

House harbor, an important port, lies at the western end of Al¬ 
right island and 2f miles northwestward of cape Alright. Its en¬ 
trance is a narrow and crooked channel, with a depth of only 6 feet 
at low water. There is a landing pier and a telegraph office. 

Grindstone island, the second largest of the chain of Magdalen 
islands is of a circular shape, and about 4 miles across; its summit 
is 550 feet above high w T ater. Considerably more information about 
the island and about the light on it is given under Gull island. 

Rock. —A rock with 3 feet of water on it lies to the southward of 
the southwest side of Alright island. From it cape Alright bears 
84°, distant 2J- miles. 

Cape Meule, the northern of the two prominent capes on the east 
side of Grindstone island, formed of gray sandstone, is 254°, 3J miles 
from cape Alright, At the head of the bay between them 1| miles 
northward of cape Meule is the entrance to House harbor. 

Meule rocks—Buoy. —Meule rocks, extending £ mile seaward of 
cape Meule, are marked on their outer extremity by a black buoy 
moored in 15 feet water, 100 yards east of a 6-foot patch. Nearly 
midway between the buoy and cape Meule there is a channel into 
Leslie cove having 18 feet water, but this should not be used in rough 
weather. 

When entering House harbor pass eastward of the buoy; when 
entering Leslie cove pass southwestward of it, and then steer to the 
northwestward. 

Grindstone village is on the southern side of Grindstone island 
at 4 miles east of the Etang du Nord; it is settled principally by 
Scotch farmers and Acadian fishermen. For some years past most 
of the freight for Magdalen islands has been unloaded here, and a 
landing pier and breakwater are partly constructed. There is a 
telegraph office. 


86 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


Red cape, 208°, 2£ miles from cape Meule, and 237° from cape 
Alright, is the southeastern point of Grindstone island, and the 
northern point of Pleasant bay, the southeastern point of which is 
Sandy Hook. Between Red cape and cape Meule is Leslie cove, a 
slight indentation of the coast of Grindstone island. 

Red cape has no remarkable features; but from its situation is 
easily recognized. 

Amherst island, the southwestern and largest of the Magdalen 
islands, is connected with Grindstone island by a double line of sand 
bars, inclosing an extensive lagoon, 7£ miles long, and from 1 to 2£ 
miles wide, the southern part of wdiich is named Basque harbor. 
This lagoon is full of sands, which are dry at low water, and it has 
three outlets into Pleasant bay. The southern of these is the deepest, 
but it has only 3 feet of water over its bar at low water. The others 
will admit boats only at high water, and when the surf is not too high. 
This applies also to three outlets to the Gulf through the sand bars 
of the west coast. 

The hills in the interior of Amherst island rise 550 feet above the 
sea. Toward the southeastern part of the island, and about 1 mile 
west-northwestward of Amherst harbor, is the remarkable conical 
Demoiselle hill. It is composed of trap rock, is 280 feet high, with 
dark red perpendicular cliffs. 

Sandy Hook, the eastern point of Amherst island, bears 141°, 
distant 6 miles from Red cape; from this line to the coast of Amherst 
island at the head of Pleasant bay is a distance of 4 miles. The Hook 
is a narrow sandy point dotted with sand hills, extending nearly 2 
miles 32° from the main southeastern part of Amherst island. 

From the Hook a considerable shoal extends J mile northward, 2 
miles eastward, and miles southeastward, having soundings from 
12 to 4 feet. The southeastern part of the shoal is called Sandy 
Hook flat. 

Pleasant bay, inclosed between Red cape and Sandy Hook, is 
the best roadstead in Magdalen islands, and the only one where 
vessels can venture to lie with all winds during June, July, and 
August, the finest time of the year. In those months an easterly gale 
so heavy as to endanger a vessel with good anchors and cables occurs 
only once in 3 or 4 years. However, the riding is often heavy and 
rough in northeasterly gales, and a vessel should be well moored with 
at least 90 fathoms on the seaward anchor, and all snug aloft. 

Anchorage. —The best and most sheltered anchorage is in 4 fath¬ 
oms, with cape Gridley, the rocky entrance point of Amherst har¬ 
bor, bearing 20^°, distant § mile, and with high-water mark on the 
sandy beach to the southeastward a little more than J mile distant. 
From this anchorage a remarkable high sand hill on Sandy Hook 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


87 


will bear 151°. In a vessel of deep draft, anchor farther off in deeper 
water. The bottom everywhere is excellent holding ground, of red 
sandy clay. 

The anchorage is sheltered, except from the northeastward, and 
even with the wind from that direction the sea is much lessened 
by passing over the shoal water; nevertheless, a vessel at anchor there 
during a heavy easterly gale, either before June or after August, 
is in great danger, and in a heavy easterly gale at any time Pleasant 
bay is not a desirable place. 

In the northern and western parts of the bay sandy flats extend 
more than 1 mile from the beach. 

Amherst harbor, in the southeastern corner of Pleasant bay, 
is formed by a peninsula whose southern end is cape Gridley, which 
presents cliffs of gray sandstone to seaward. The harbor entrance, 
between this peninsula and the sands southward, is 2^ miles within 
or southwestward of the extremit}' of Sandy Hook, which i& a long 
and narrow sandy point with sandhills. The harbor entrance, 
though the easiest of access of any in the Magdalen islands, is ex¬ 
tremely narrow and rather crooked, so that, without a pilot, it is 
necessary to buoy the channel; but there is an excellent roadstead 
outside, where vessels may await their opportunity of running in. 

The depth over the bar, which is rocky, is 8 feet at low water 
springs. Within the harbor there is an area of about 400 yards 
square, with depths of 10 to 18 feet, over soft, black, and fetid mud, 
w T ell sheltered from every wind. 

Amherst is a port of considerable importance; and steamers, ply¬ 
ing between Pictou, Souris, and Magdalen islands, call there twice 
every week. There is a landing pier at point Shea, 488 feet long, 
with a depth of 17 feet water at its outer end at low water springs. 

Telegraph office.— Amherst village, which has a telegraph office, 
is situated near'the harbor. 

Ice. —The harbor is usually frozen over about January 1 and is 
clear of ice about May 10, being completely closed between January 
1 and May 1. Field ice generally drifts in toward the island about 
January 15 and disappears about May 12. The first vessel arrives 
from sea about May 10 and the last one leaves about December 17. 

Sandy Hook channel, between Amherst and Entry islands, is 
2J miles wide, but a considerable sandy shoal extends 2 miles east¬ 
ward from Sandy Hook, leaving a navigable breadth of little more 
than 4 mile between it and the rocky shoals off the west side of 
Entry island. Off the eastern end of Sandy Hook shoal, which is 
steep to, a red buoy is moored in 5 fathoms. There are several rocky 
patches of 2| fathoms off the southwest point of Entry island, reach¬ 
ing f mile from the shore. The ebb tidal stream sets strongly through 


88 ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 

this channel and over Sandy Hook flat. Vessels of deep draft should 
not use this channel, but should go to the eastward of Entry island. 

Directions. —A depth of 4 fathoms can be carried through Sandy 
Hook channel by a good pilot, but 3J fathoms is the most that can be 
safely reckoned on by a stranger. 

From the southward, keep the eastern extreme of Alright island 
bearing 353°, just open westward of the shingle and sandy spit form¬ 
ing the northwestern point of Entry island (Northwest spit), until 
abreast of the southwestern point of Entry island, then haul up for 
the summit of Grindstone island, passing eastward of Sandy Hook 
shoal buoy; but if the buoy is not watching, the edge of the sand shoal 
to the westward can generally be seen. 

Entry island, whose summit is 580 feet above high water, is the 
highest of the Magdalen islands. Its beautiful red cliffs at the north¬ 
eastern point are 350 feet high, and at the southern point 400 feet. 
High rock lies about 100 yards from the cliffs at the northeastern 
point of the island, and the remarkable Tower rock, of red sandstone, 
is joined to the northern side of the island. Tower rock may be seen 
from the southwestward over the low and sandy Northwest spit, as 
well as from the northeastward. 

Light.— On a hill on the southeastern side of Entry island an 
octagonal white wooden lighthouse with a red octagonal lantern, 
32 feet high, exhibits at 277 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 16 miles from 
222° through west, north, and east to 132°. Through the remaining 
90° of the circle the light is intercepted by the high hills northward 
of it. 

Shoals. —Besides the rocky patches in Sandy Hook channel and 
off the southwestern point of Entry island, there are others extending 
£ mile off the southern and southeastern sides. 

Andromache rocks are several pinnacle rocks with deep water 
between them, lying off the northeastern point of Entry island. The 
two nearest the shore, with 11 feet water, are not beyond 250 yards 
from High rock; two others, with 17 feet water, are distant 400 yards 
and 450 yards, respectively, from High rock on the same line of bear¬ 
ing ; and a patch, with 3£ fathoms water, is at £ mile out in the same 
direction. To give these rocks a good berth when passing eastward 
of Entry island, do not haul round High rock at a less distance than 
\ mile and avoid Pearl reef, which lies, 58°, 4 miles farther off. 

Anchorage.— Vessels generally anchor under Entry island in 
northerly and easterly winds, but it is rough riding because of the 
sea that rolls round the island. The best anchorage in easterly winds 
is in Sandy Hook channel under Northwest spit, in 5 fathoms, sand. 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 


89 


Supplies. —The inhabitants of Entry island raise cattle and sheep, 
depending more upon the sale of fresh provisions than upon the fish¬ 
eries. Supplies may therefore almost always be obtained. 

Amherst island. —The southern coast of Amherst island from 
Sandy Hook, consisting of sand hills and beaches, with shoal water 
from J mile to 1 mile off, curves round southward and westward for 
6 miles, to the entrance of the basin, which extends across the island 
to about ^ mile from Pleasant bay. The basin is so nearly closed 
with sand that boats can enter only at high water and in the finest 
weather. There is good anchorage off the entrance, in 6 to 9 fathoms, 
sandy bottom, with winds from north-northwest through north to 
east-northeast. 

At 1^ miles westward of the entrance to the basin eliffs commence 
.and continue, except in Cabane bay, to West cape, which is the high¬ 
est cliff of the island, its summit being 300 feet above the sea. There 
is a remarkable rock above water close to the land at about a quarter 
of a mile southward of the cape. The prominent landmarks on the 
coast are cape Perce, 24 miles, 259°, from the entrance to the basin; 
South cape, f mile, 256°, from cape Perce, and Southwest cape, 1£ 
miles, 282°, from South cape. Between Southwest and South capes 
is Cabane bay. 

From Southwest cape the coast turns abruptly to about northwest 
for 1 mile and then turns sharply to the northward for ^ mile to 
West cape. 

Light. —On South cape, Amherst island, a white hexagonal wooden 
building, 54 feet high, exhibits, at 107 feet above high water, an al¬ 
ternating light, showing alternately red and white every 30 seconds, 
which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 16 miles. This 
light is visible through an arc of 198°, from 261°, to 99°. It is ob¬ 
scured by the island through the rest of the circle. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a marine signal 
and telegraph station at this lighthouse, which is included in Lloyd’s 
system of reporting stations. 

Ice report. —This signal station receives special reports on the ice 
and the state of navigation in the gulf during April and May, which 
it communicates by signal to vessels asking for the information. 

Cabane bay is a small bight, between South and Southwest capes, 
with safe anchorage in northeasterly winds, and where good water 
may be obtained. The best berth is in 8 to 9 fathoms, sandy bottom, 
off the middle of the bay, with South cape and cape Perce in line, and 
f mile offshore. 

Deadman islet, 280°, nearly 7f miles from West cape of Mag¬ 
dalen islands, is about 600 yards in length, east and west, and 
less than 150 yards in breadth. It is about 170 feet high, with 


90 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


steeply sloping sides, and when seen end on resembles a pyramid. 
From a distance northward or southward its outline much resembles 
that of a body laid out for burial, whence its name. The islet is com¬ 
posed principally of trap rocks, and its western side is so bold that it 
may be safely passed at the distance of 400 yards, but a reef extends 
■J mile toward Amherst island. 

Caution. —At night, or in foggy weather, vessels should beware 
of Deadman islet, for there is nearly as much water within -J mile of 
it as at a distance of several miles, and therefore the lead gives little 
warning of approach. 

Fishing grounds. —About 1 mile northward of Deadman islet 
there is a rocky fishing ground with 8 fathoms least water, and 6 
miles southward of it there is another with 11 fathoms. 

The coast of Amherst island, northward of West cape, consists of 
red cliffs, without beach, but with shoal water | mile offshore, to West 
lake, which is a pond at the southwestern end of the sand bars joining 
Amherst and Grindstone islands. 

Gull island. —At the northeastern extremity of these sand bars is 
Gull island, which is small, rocky, and close to the western point of 
Grindstone island, with shoal water extending ^ mile westward of it. 
About 1^ miles southwestward of the island, nearly 1J miles off the 
northwestern outlet of Basque harbor, and with the western side of 
Gull island and Gros cap in line, lies Rocky bank, with 3 fathoms over 
it at low water, but no good passage between it and the shore. 

Etang du FTord. —Close northeastward of Gull island is Etang 
du Nord, a small inlet, affording good shelter to boats. On the shore 
of the inlet is a village with a telegraph office. 

Grindstone Island light. —On the western side of Grindstone 
island, at about f mile northward of Etang du Nord, a square white 
lighthouse, 42 feet high, exhibits at 97 feet above high water a re¬ 
volving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 90 
seconds, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 15 miles. 

There is a telegraph office at the lighthouse. 

Hospital cape. —The northern and northwestern coasts of Grind¬ 
stone island are of red sandstone cliffs terminating in Hospital cape, 
almost a peninsula, 44°, 3£ miles from the light on Grindstone island. 
Nearly half way between the light and Hospital cape is cape le Trou. 

Hospital rock. —Near the extremity of Hospital cape, close in, lies 
Hospital rock. Some rocky 3-fathom patches lie a little more than 
■J mile from shore. 

White Horse reef lies 269°, 5J miles from Gull island. 35°, 7^ 
miles from Deadman islet, and 257°, 6J miles from Grindstone Island 
light. It is about 200 yards across, and has 10 feet least water over 


MAGDALEN ISLANDS. 91 

pointed rocks, on which the sea often breaks, thus rendering it danger¬ 
ous. 

From the reef, the western extreme of Amherst island and Hospital 
cape (the northwestern extreme of the cliffs of Grindstone island) 
subtend an angle of 91° 30'; with these points subtending a less angle 
by 3° or 4° a vessel will pass outside the reef, and with an angle of 
95° she will pass between the reef and the shore. 

There are irregular soundings and foul ground between this reef 
and shore, but nothing less than 5 fathoms, except what has been 
described. 

Pierre de Gros cap, a dangerous reef of rocks about 200 yards 
across, with 18 feet least water, seldom shows, as the sea breaks upon 
it only in very heavy weather. It lies 282°, 4^ miles from Hospital 
cape, and 302°, 3f miles from cape le Trou. 

From the reef the summit of Alright island is in line 102°, with 
the northeastern point of Grindstone island, which is in the lagoon, 
and very nearly in line with Hospital cape; and la butte de Portage, 
a hill in Amherst island situated about H miles west-northwestward 
of Demoiselle hill and bearing 159°, is in the middle of the narrow 
passage between Gull island and the west point of Etang du Nord. 
These marks open lead northeastward and southwestward of the reef, 
and a vessel will pass well clear outside of it; and Deadman isl$t 
bearing southward of 205° leads more than 1 mile to seaward both of 
White Horse reef and of Pierre de Gros cap. 

Wolf island. —The northwestern coast of Magdalen islands from 
Hospital cape to Wolf island, a distance of 10 miles, consists of sand 
beaches and sand hills; Wolf island, which is about J mile long, has 
low sandstone cliffs, but from the island the sand beaches continue 
with occasional high sand hills, 9 miles farther to North cape. At 
nearly \ mile off Wolf island there is a rocky 3-fathom shoal, and 
between Wolf island and Hospital cape are two other 3-fathom 
shoals, but off all this coast the sand bars may be safely approached 
by the lead to a depth of 10 fathoms. 

Telegraph.— There is a telegraph office at Wolf island, and Grosse 
isle is connected with Bryon island by cable. 

North cape, the northern point of Grosse isle, is a precipice of 
considerable height, but not so high as the southwestern point of the 
same island, which is in the Great lagoon and 300 feet ’above the 
sea. 

The northern coast of Magdalen islands continues from North 
cape, in a curved line of sand beaches and sand hills, for 5J miles, to 
East point. 

North cape rocks, some of which are always above water, lie 
westward of North cape, and extend 1,200 yards offshore. The west- 


92 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


ern end of these rocks bears 312° from the high southwestern side of 
Grosse isle, and their northeastern limit is marked by the northeast¬ 
ern sides of North and Northeast capes in line. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a marine signal 
and telegraph station at Grosse isle. 

Ice report. —This signal station receives special reports on ice, and 
the state of navigation in the gulf and river St. Lawrence during 
April and May, and communicates them to vessels asking for the in¬ 
formation by signal. 

Water may be had in small quantities near the houses on the 
eastern side of North cape. 

Anchorage. —There is open anchorage with plenty of room to get 
underway for southerly winds, eastward of North cape, in about 9 
fathoms, sandy bottom and good holding ground. 

Directions. —Vessels passing southward of the Magdalen islands 
make Entry island from the eastward, which at a distance to the west¬ 
ward appears like a double-peaked hill, sloping somewhat abruptly 
down to perpendicular and high cliffs on either side. Southwest cape, 
Amherst island, is also a steep cliff, but of less height; and the land 
rises from it in undulations to the higher parts of the island. As 
there is no land southward and westward of Southwest cape, the 
cape can not be easily mistaken. In foggy weather the soundings 
affords a good guide to pass southeastward of the islands. In fact, the 
soundings all around the Magdalen islands will be of invaluable 
assistance to vessels at night or in foggy weather. The charts show 
the soundings, and the intelligent navigator will know how to use 
them. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Amherst harbor and 
at Grand Entry harbor at 8 h. 20 m.; ordinary springs rise 3 feet, 
and neaps 2 feet. 

Tidal streams. —The tidal streams or currents around Magdalen 
island are very variable both in rate and direction; and while it 
is difficult to state their peculiarities with accuracy, the following 
description will serve as a guide in ordinary weather, and is com¬ 
piled from the best obtainable information. 

A few miles outside Bryon island and Bird rocks, there is usually 
a current setting southeastward out of the gulf of St. Lawrence, 
but the stream of flood tide flows between them and Magdalen 
islands. The flood stream sets northwestward and is divided by 
East point. One branch of the stream sets strongly over Long spit, 
which, with Old Harry head and the shoals off it, turns it off south- 
westward toward Entry island, leaving nearly slack water in the bay 
between Coffin island and cape Alright and also in Pleasant bay. 
The other branch passes northward of the islands from East point 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


93 


round to Southwest cape, Amherst island, whence the greater part 
of the stream continues southwestward, while the remainder runs 
along the southern coast *of Amherst island, until it meets the other 
branch of the stream from East point, setting off the eastern side 
of Entry island. The streams then combine and turn gradually 
round, joining the general weak flood stream setting westward in 
the offing. 

On the southeastern side of the islands the ebb stream sets strongly 
out of the lagoons and out of Pleasant bay through Sandy Hook 
channel, between Sandy Hook and Entry island. It also often 
runs westward along the southern coast of Amherst island, round 
it, and northeastward to southeastward along the western and north¬ 
ern coasts of Magdalen islands from Southwest cape to East point. 
In the offing, at the same time, the ebb stream sets northeastward 
and over Long spit, where it meets the southeast-going stream, which 
has followed the western and northern coasts of the islands from 
Amherst island to East point. This meeting of the two streams, to¬ 
gether with the shoalness of the water, causes so heavy a breaking 
sea in strong easterly winds that the fishing craft at times dare not 
venture to pass the point. 

The above observations hold good as a general rule, and, although 
subject to occasional interruption, recur with considerable constancy 
in fine weather. 

The rate of either stream seldom amounts to 1 knot, excepting 
close inshore or round the points. The ebb is generally the stronger 
stream, and its rate is increased by westerly winds, as the rate of the 
flood is by easterly winds. 

Anticosti island, situated in the entrance of the northwestern 
arm of the gulf of St. Lawrence, is 122 miles long, northwest and 
southeast, with a greatest breadth of 30" miles, and a perimeter of 
about 270 miles, following the coast from point to point across the 
* bays. Its coasts are everywhere of silurian limestone rock formation, 
affording in some parts excellent building stone and means of making 
the finest hydraulic lime. Qn or near the coasts, especially in places 
exposed to the wind and salt spray, the limestone soil is covered with 
a thick and often impenetrable forest of dwarf spruce, which in some- 
exposed situations is only a few feet in height, with branches so 
gnarled, twisted, and matted together that a man may walk for a 
considerable distance on their mass. Extensive banks of limestone 
shingle, also bush swamps, morasses, and beds of peat are common. 

Anticosti does not in any part exceed 700 feet above the sea in 
height. Its south coast is low and shelving, with reefs of flat lime¬ 
stone, which dry at low T water; but there is a range of highlands 
within Southwest point, which extends for some miles both north¬ 
westward and southeastward of the point. The north coast between 


94 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWKENCE. 


East cape and West cliff, a distance of about 75 miles, is of consider¬ 
able elevation, bold and precipitous. Parallel ridges of table-land 
that rise gently with the strata from the southwest terminate on the 
north coast in picturesque headlands ending in magnificent cliffs of 
limestone, which the effects of the weather have made so nearly white 
that they resemble chalk. Some of these cliffs are upward of 400 
feet in perpendicular height. The north coast between West cliff and 
West point is like the south coast, low, with reefs of flat limestone. 

Harbors.—There are no good harbors for large vessels in Anti¬ 
costi, the best of them being suitable for vessels drawing not more 
than 12 feet. 

Caution.—The reefs of flat limestone, extending in some parts 1J 
miles offshore, the want of anchorage on most parts of the coast, and 
above all the frequent fogs render great caution necessary in ap¬ 
proaching Anticosti. 

Anticosti island, a part of the province of Quebec, was purchased in 
1895 by M. Henri Menier, of Paris, France, who has since had a good 
deal of work done in settling and exploring his property. 

Productions.—Nearly the whole of the interior of Anticosti is 
covered with large spruce, balsam, birch, pine, larch, and poplar tim¬ 
ber, which is being made into lumber and wood pulp. The soil of 
the island is in almost all parts of the interior of good quality, 
adapted for the growth of grain, hay, and vegetables. Large num¬ 
bers of cattle, sheep, pigs, and horses are fed on the farms. It is 
doubtful if there are any minerals on the island. 

Fisheries, animals, etc.—Salmon are found in many rivers of the 
island and trout in many brooks and lakes; these fish are protected. 
Seals frequent the reefs and are killed annually in great numbers. 
Codfish, halibut, herring, haddock, and eels are caught off all the 
coasts of the island. Lobsters, canned in two important factories at 
Goose point and Fox bay, are largely exported. In the fishing season # 
every year schooners visit the island to buy bait, including herring, 
caplin, and squid. 

Black bears and red deer are numerous in the interior of the island. 
Black, silver, and crossed fox, black and brown marten, and otter 
produce the best furs found there. Rabbits are not permitted at all 
on the island, and pigs must be kept in bounds, not being allowed to 
run wild. 

Wild geese, partridge, snipe, eider, and duck are abundant. 

Population.—The inhabitants of Anticosti, including the light- 
keepers and their families, numbered 500 in 1904. 

Climate.—The climate of Anticosti is far less severe than that of 
the mainland or even of Quebec; the winter is more temperate and the 
summer is cooler. The sky, even in winter, is remarkably clear. As 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


95 


grains and vegetables are now largely grown, either the rigor of the 
climate has hitherto been exaggerated or it has been modified by 
clearance and settlement. 

Communication.—The steamer Savoy, belonging to the proprietor 
of the island, makes weekly trips to the mainland and round the 
island. The Dominion steamers of the lighthouse and fishery protec¬ 
tion services visit Anticosti; a schooner stops at Ste. Claire every 
fortnight on her passage between Gaspe and the north coast, and 
numbers of fishing boats and yachts pay annual visits to the ports. 

Rivers.—Streams of excellent water flow into the sea from all 
parts of the coasts of Anticosti. The largest rivers are: Jupiter, 
Salmon, Shallop, Yaureal, Potato, McDonald, Otter, and Oil. These 
are salmon rivers. Fifty others of small size abound with brook and 
sea trout. 

Lights.—Four lighthouses are erected on Anticosti—one each on 
Heath point, at the east end of the island; Bagot bluff, f mile from 
South point; Southwest point, and West point. The lights will be 
described in their proper order in the book. 

Ice report.—At each of the above lighthouses there is a marine 
telegraph and signal station which receives and transmits to vessels 
requesting them special reports on ice, wind, weather, state of naviga¬ 
tion, etc., in the river and the gulf. 

Telegraph offices.—Besides the offices at the lighthouses, there 
are telegraph offices—not signal stations—at Shallop creek, Salt Lake 
bay, and Becscie river. 

East cape.—The southeastern termination of one of the numerous 
densely wooded ridges in this portion of the island is a long, rounded 
projection, the extreme being a limestone cliff 49 feet high. The 
northern side of the cape is steep to, but a ledge, dry at low water, 
extends 450 yards from the southeastern extreme. 

A conspicuous patch of sand on the face of a steep slope lies close 
southward of this ledge, and the cliff southwestward of the patch rises 
to a height of 90 feet, falling again to 45 feet in a projection that 
forms the northern side of Wreck bay. 

Lightvessel.—A lightvessel, moored in 22 fathoms at 131°, 8-J 
miles from East cape, and 106°, 8 miles from Heath point, exhibits 
from each of her two mastheads, at 60 feet above water, an inter¬ 
mittent w 7 hite electric dioptric light every 15 seconds, thus: Light, 10 
seconds; eclipse, 5 seconds, which should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 13 miles. If the electric lights fail from any cause, fixed 
white oil lights of less intensity will be showm. 

The lightvessel is a steel steamer with tw T o masts and no bowsprit; 
the hull is painted red, with Anticosti on the sides and No. 15 
on each bow 7 in white; the circular gallery under the lanterns at 


96 ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 

each masthead, the funnel, and the fog trumpet between the masts 
are all painted red. 

The light vessel is withdrawn during the winter. 

Fog signals.—A diaphone trumpet worked by compressed air, in 
thick or foggy weather, gives one blast of 4^ seconds’ duration every 
minute, thus: Blast, 4^ seconds; interval, 55| seconds. If the 
trumpet is disabled, a whistle will be sounded in a similar manner, 
and if the whistle is unavailable a bell will be rung by hand. 

Submarine fog bell.—The lightvessel has been fitted with a 
submarine bell, which during thick or foggy weather gives strokes 
indicating the lightvessel’s number (15), thus: 1 stroke; interval, 
4 seconds; 5 strokes at intervals of 1 second; interval, 10 seconds. 

Vessels equipped with receiving apparatus should be able to hear 
the bell at the distance of 5 miles and to determine its bearing within 
a quarter of a point. Vessels not so equipped should be able to hear 
it, at a distance of 1 to 2 miles, from a position within the listening 
vessel below the water line and close to the vessel’s side. 

Instructions have been given for the bell to be struck whenever a 
vessel approaches within 5 miles, and mariners are requested to report 
the distance at which they hear it. 

Wreck bay is a shallow bight between East cape and Heath point, 
and the shores are foul to the distance of nearly mile, while on its 
northern side is an isolated rocky patch with 10 to 15 feet on it at 
low water. The bottom of the bay is rock and the anchorage is indif¬ 
ferent, but it is frequented by fishing vessels during northwesterly 
winds. The bay should not be approached with southerly or easterly 
winds, as a heavy sea rolls in. Landing may generally be effected, 
except in bad weather, in the western corner of the bay near a small 
storehouse, where a projection of the shore** reef gives some shelter 
to boats; but if there is much swell, the shore must be approached 
with great caution. There is a lake of fresh water close inshore of the 
landing place. 

Tidal stream.—The stream setting southwestward past East cape 
sometimes turns sharply into Wreck bay, and necessitates caution in 
this locality. 

Heath point is of limestone, about 10 feet high, with a super¬ 
stratum of peat, in which there are several ponds of dark bog water. 
Being so low, this point disappears below the horizon from the dis¬ 
tance of a few miles; the lighthouse then may appear as a sail off 
Anticosti, and in any case the lighthouse will be very useful to vessels 
by marking the extent of the low land. 

Light.—A circular tower on Heath point, 95 feet high and painted 
white with one red horizontal band, exhibits, at 110 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen a distance of 15 miles 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


97 


in clear weather over an arc of 213° between the bearings of 208° 
and 61°. 

Fog signal. —During thick weather, fogs, or snowstorms an explo¬ 
sive fog signal is fired every 15 minutes, and if a vessel’s fog signal is 
heard in dangerous proximity an additional signal is fired and re¬ 
peated every 5 minutes. Too much dependence should not be placed 
on hearing this signal. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a marine signal 
and telegraph station at the lighthouse, which is also an ice-report sta¬ 
tion. This station is included in Lloyd’s system. 

Wireless telegraph station.— There is at the lighthouse also a 
wireless telegraph station, maintained by the Dominion government. 
Its call letter is HP. 

Heath point reef and foul ground with depths of less than 5 
fathoms extend 1^ miles southeastward and nearly 3 miles northeast¬ 
ward from the lighthouse. A rocky bank with 3 fathoms least water 
over it lies 92°, 14 miles from the lighthouse; there are depths of 6 
to 7 fathoms between it and the shore reef, but any swell breaks over 
both reef and bank. A bank, with 10 fathoms water on it, lies 97°, 4 
miles from the lighthouse, and at 114°, 1,400 yards from this bank, 
and 100°, 4^ miles from the lighthouse is another with 11 fathoms 
water over it. Over all these shoals during spring tides there are 
heavy tide rips, and in bad weather overfalls resembling breakers. 

Caution.—The attention of navigators is directed to the great 
change of variation between Belle Isle strait and Heath point, which, 
if not allowed for, has the tendency to set vessels toward Anticosti 
when they are bound southward through the strait. The difference in 
variation referred to is about 7 degrees. 

Attention is directed also to the change in variation between the 
gut of Canso and Heath point, which is about 3 degrees. Between 
Cabot strait and Heath point the change is only a little more than 1 
degree. 

Soundings. —The following peculiarities in the soundings will be 
useful by giving warning to the navigator in case of his being uncer¬ 
tain of his position. The curves of 20 and 30 fathoms, which off 
East cape are, respectively, i mile and 1J miles distant from the shore, 
turn abruptly southeastward, forming a projecting flat ledge off 
Heath point, from which in a 100° direction the 20 fathoms curve is 
7J miles and the 30 fathoms curve is 13 miles distant, respectively. 
The curve of 50 fathoms, which off Table head is only about 4 miles 
from the land, is distant 23 miles 100° from Heath point. Southward 
of this point the curve of 50 fathoms turns westward, and it is only 8 
miles distant 184° from Heath point, 6 miles 181° from Goose point, 
and 3J miles 181° from South point, while the line of 10 fathoms is 
50918—08-7 


98 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


only 1J miles off South point with no danger southward of it. At 
184° from Heath point the 30 and 50 fathoms curves are only \ mile 
apart. The 100 fathoms curve of soundings, from about 12 miles 
northeastward of Table head, leads to a position 91°, 45 miles from 
Heath point, whence it bends westward to a position 153°, 21 miles 
from Heath point, and thence takes a 282° direction. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Heath point at 11 h. 20 m.; springs rise 4J feet, neaps 24 feet. The 
tidal streams at springs run strongly round the point to a distance of 
about G miles from the shore, the flood running between north and 
east-northeast, and the ebb between south-southeast and southwest; at 
a distance of 5 miles from the land the streams turn at 1J hours be¬ 
fore high and low water on the shore, and run at a rate of about f 
knot an hour. During neaps these streams are much modified both 
in rate and direction by the wind. 

Winds. —Sometimes westerly winds converge from both sides of 
the island toward Heath point, and in the area between the junction 
of the winds and the land, generally for 5 to 8 miles eastward of the 
island, the winds are light and variable. Sailing vessels should not 
approach the island within this space. 

The coast from Heath point turns abruptly northwestward and 
westward 3 miles to Wreck point, which is low and dark and has a 
limestone cliff 15 feet high close eastward of it. 

West bay lies between these points and affords tolerable anchorage 
with offshore winds in 6 to 10 fathoms water; but the bottom is 
generally foul with occasional patches of sand and mud. 

Cormorant point, 256°, 5 miles from Heath point, is a conspicuous 
steep slope of red clay 20 feet high, backed by wooded ridges which 
approach close to the shore. Between it and Wreck point is a shallow 
bight where there is a lobster factory, abreast which a break occurs 
in the limestone reef that elsewhere fronts the coast for distances 
varying from 100 to 800 yards. Foul ground extends f mile from 
Cormorant point and is generally shown by breakers. 

The coast from Cormorant point trends westward in a series of 
small bights separated by low points. Goose point, the next west¬ 
ward, is distinguished by a remarkable clump of trees f mile north¬ 
eastward of it. A lobster factory is situated 2J miles eastward of 
Goose point. The shore reef extends If miles off Goose point to the 
depth of 4 fathoms. Heath Point lighthouse open of Cormorant 
point, bearing 71°, leads clear of this ledge; but this bearing leads 
across the foul ground to the southward of Cormorant point. There¬ 
fore when rounding Cormorant point, Heath Point lighthouse must 
not be brought to bear eastward of 66°. At night when the light is 
visible, a good rule for rounding both Goose point and Cormorant 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


99 


point, is not to get to the northward of the line of visibility of Heath 
Point light. 

From Goose point westward the coast, at 4 miles inland, rises to 
a height of 300 feet, with occasional patches of swampy land and 
numerous ponds; the wooded ridges beginning at Cormorant point 
continue to South point. There is a hill 115 feet high f mile to the 
northward of Goose point. Otter river, a small stream that boats 
can enter at high water, lies II miles westward of Goose point, and at 
4 miles from the point is la Croix point. Two other small streams 
that boats can enter at high water, the western one known as Bell 
river, lie between la Croix point and South point. 

Tidal streams. —Westward of Cormorant point the flood stream 
runs northwestward, and the ebb southeastward; but both the rate and 
direction are much influenced by the wind; occasionally the stream 
runs in one direction for the whole of a day. It may be said that 
generally the tidal streams are very variable. 

South point, 270°, 16^ miles from Cormorant point, is low and 
flat, with some small ponds just inshore of it, and no trees within | 
mile. 

Bagot bluff is a slight rise in the coast J mile northwestward of 
South point. At 800 yards westward of the lighthouse a break in 
the shore reef occurs where boats can land in moderate weather. 

A rock with 16 feet water on it lies within the 5-fathom curve, 
268°, 2J miles from the lighthouse on Bagot bluff. 

Light. —On Bagot bluff a hexagonal wooden tower 54 feet high, 
painted white with a red vertical stripe, exhibits, at 75 feet above 
high water, a flashing white light, showing 1’flash every 20 seconds, 
and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 14 miles. 

The keepers’ dwelling, painted white, is eastward of the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —During snowstorms and in thick or foggy weather 
a steam fog horn, situated 100 yards eastward of the lighthouse, is 
sounded for 10 seconds, with an interval of 50 seconds between the 
blasts. If the horn is out of order a whistle sounds similar blasts. 
Neither horn nor whistle are to be depended on, as in some conditions 
of the atmosphere the sound is inaudible at any serviceable distance. 

The fog-signal building is painted white with a red roof. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is at this light¬ 
house a signal, telegraph, and ice-report station which is included in 
Lloyd’s system. 

The coast. —From South point to Southwest point, a distance of 
56 miles, there is such a sameness in the character of the coast, that 
it is very difficult to distinguish one part from another. This coast 
is very low, but it begins to rise at Pavilion river, whence there is a 


100 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


high ridge close in rear of the coast all the way to, and for some miles 
beyond, Southwest point. 

Caution. —Unless absolutely necessary, it is very undesirable to 
close this part of the island, because the survey is very incomplete. 
Reefs extend 1 mile from the land, and are so steep that the lead 
gives little warning; great caution is therefore necessary, especially 
m thick weather or at night when in this vicinity. When Southwest 
Point light is in sight do not bring it to bear westward of 311°. 

Box river, a small stream, lies 6 miles northwestward of Bagot 
bluff, and the entrance of Shallop creek is nearly 8 miles farther 
northwestward. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Shallop creek. 

Pavilion river. —At the entrance of Pavilion river, 11 miles 
northwestward of Shallop creek, there is a limestone cliff. 

Salt Lake hay, 11 miles southeastward of Southwest point and 45 
miles northwestward of Bagot bluff, has fine sandy beaches, inclos¬ 
ing lagoons or ponds, into which the tide flows. 

Anchorage. —Off the middle of this bay, and with its northwestern 
point bearing 350°, distant 1J miles, there is very indifferent anchor¬ 
age, in T fathoms, sandy bottom; but there is some foul and rocky 
ground about 2 miles southward of this position. There are 74 
fathoms rocky bottom marked on the plan on the spot alluded to, and 
as there is probably less water between it and the southeastern point 
of the bay, vessels should not pass between it and the shore. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Salt Lake bay. 

Southwest point is a low, projecting mound of limestone, having 
a small cove on its northern side, which forms it into a peninsula. 
The land in the rear rises gradually to the summit of the ridge men¬ 
tioned above. When the wind is offshore and the sea smooth, boats 
may land on a limestone gravel beach on the southern side of the 
point, as well as in the cove on the northern side. A reef extends about 
4 mile westward of the point, and the 50-fathoms curve is about 2 
miles off, in the same direction. On the northern side of the point, 
and along the coast to Jupiter river, the cliffs rise perpendicularly 
from the sea. 

Light. —Southwest Point lighthouse, a circular tower 90 feet high, 
painted white with two red horizontal bands, on the western extremity 
of the point, exhibits, at 94 feet above high water, a revolving white 
light which attains its greatest brilliancy every minute, and should be 
seen in clear weather from all directions seaward a distance of 15 
miles. The lighthouse makes a conspicuous landmark by day. 

Marine signal and telegraph station.— There is a marine signal 
and telegraph station at this lighthouse, which.is included in Lloyd’s 
system of reporting stations. 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


101 


Ice report.—This signal station receives special reports on the ice 
and the state of navigation in the gulf in April and May, and com¬ 
municates the information to vessels asking for it by signal. 

Anchorage.—There is indifferent anchorage in the bay northward 
of the point in 12 or 13 fathoms, over a bottom of sand, gravel, and 
broken shells, with the point bearing 178°, distant J mile, whence 
the cliffs eastward will be at the same distance; small vessels may lie 
closer under the point. Although sheltered from about northward, 
through eastward, to southward, it should be used only in case of 
necessity, as the holding ground is bad, and it is a dangerous place 
to be caught by westerly winds, which are preceded by a heavy swell. 

The telegraph cable from Great Fox river is landed on the outer 
part of the western cove of this bay, and vessels should avoid foul¬ 
ing it. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Southwest point at 
111. 55m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

The coast from Southwest point to Ellis bay has no other anchor¬ 
age. From the cove on the northern side of Southwest point the 
coast turns sharply northward to Jupiter river, then trends in a 
general northeasterly direction. Reefs of flat limestone extend from 
it, in most parts fully 1 mile, with 10 to 12 fathoms water often close 
outside them. Vessels standing in must keep the lead going, and sail¬ 
ing vessels should tack in 17 fathoms. 

Current.— With westerly and southwesterly winds, a southeasterly 
current appears to sweep round the long bight between the West and 
Southwest points and to be turned off' to the southward by the last- 
named point, frequently causing a great ripple off it. 

Jupiter river, the largest stream' on the island, is entered at 5J 
miles northward of Southwest point. There is a depth of 5 to 6 feet 
of water in its entrance after the melting of the snows in spring and 
3 feet during the remainder of the year. Small boats can enter the 
river without difficulty and scows can be towed up far into the in¬ 
terior of the island. Sometimes in southwesterly gales the entrance 
becomes barred with sand, but it soon reopens. The river is a succes¬ 
sion of pools and rapids, and has been explored to its source, about 
100 miles from the entrance, where the quantity of water is nearly 
as great as at its mouth. Immediately northward of the entrance 
of this river there are conspicuous and high sandy cliffs. 

St. Mary cliffs, 21 miles northwestward of Southwest point, are 
of sand, and though not high nor remarkable, are yet not difficult 
to distinguish. 

Becscie river, 7 miles northwestward of St. Mary cliffs, is a small 
stream at the head of a cove, affording shelter to boats. One family 
resides there. 


102 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Becscie river. 

Ellis bay, 11 miles northwestward of Becscie river, has its entrance 
between capes Eagle and Henry, which are nearly 2 miles apart north¬ 
west and southeast, and it extends about 2 miles northward, thence 
about | mile northwestward. Reefs of flat limestone, which dry at 
low water, and upon which the sea breaks with the least swell, extend 
about 1,200 yards westward of and around cape Eagle, and about 
1,000 yards southward of cape Henry. From these reefs extensive 
flats continue round the bay, and though they do not entirely dry at 
low water, have upon them bowlders that always show. 

The entrance between the reefs is 1,000 yards wide, having a least 
depth of 3 fathoms, and the bay affords the only tolerably sheltered 
anchorage with the best harbor in Anticosti. 

The settlement on the shores of the bay within the pier is likely to 
become the chief place in the island; it now contains, besides a saw¬ 
mill and a lobster factory, the residence of M. Menier, the proprietor 
of the island; it has a complete telephone system. The soil about the 
settlement is very fertile. Good crops of oats, barley, and wheat have 
been reaped, and a large, flourishing fruit and vegetable garden has 
been established. A road connects the settlement with English bay. 

A river formerly ran into the head of the bay, but its course has 
been changed and it now runs through a canal that has been cut and 
reaches the bay near the pier that has been built within the last few 
years. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Ellis bay. 

Beacons. —Two white beacons, close together, are on the western 
side of White cliff, which lies northward 1.6 miles from cape Eagle. 
The southern beacon is a cylinder with a conical top, the northern 
beacon a frustum cone; and the beacons in line bear 6°. 

Two white beacons, close together, are situated at about a mile 
northward of White cliff'. The southeastern beacon is a diamond 
shape on a post, and the northwestern, a square shape on a post. 
These beacons in line bear 342°. 

Range lights. —The proprietor of Anticosti island, Mr. Menier, 
has established range lights for Ellis bay. 

The front light is shown from a white cylindrical tower, 33 feet 
high, surmounted by a circular metal lantern with red roof. The 
tower is built upon a white concrete foundation in the form of a frus¬ 
tum of a cone, located on the western end of the breakwater pier 
built out from White cliff. 

The light is a fixed white light, 35 feet above high water, and vis¬ 
ible in clear weather 11 miles, over an arc of 90° from 307° to 37°. 

The rear light is shown from a tower similar to the front one, but 
52 feet high, built on a masonry foundation 10 feet high, in the form 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 1C 3 

of a frustum of a cone, located on land near the shore at the head of 
the bay, 5,000 feet, 243°, from the front tower. 

The light is a fixed white light, 79 feet above high water, and visible 
in clear weather 14 miles, over an arc of 90° from 280° to 10°. 

The two lights in line bearing 243° lead into Ellis bay clear of 
shoals. 

Anchorage.—Vessels with a draft not too great for a depth of 3 
fathoms may safely lie in the bay during June, July, and August, but 
they should moor with a long scope of cable on the southern anchor. 
If of greater draft and remaining only a few hours, or a day, they will 
find anchorage farther out, in 34 and 4 fathoms; but neither the 
ground nor the shelter is so good as that farther up. 

A good berth is in 3 fathoms, muddy bottom, distant about 500 
yards from the flats on either side, and about 4 mile from those at 
the head of the bay, with cape Henry bearing 223°, and a little west¬ 
ward of the line of the lights at the head of the bay. This position is 
open from about south-southeast to south-southwest, but strong winds 
from this direction are rare and never last long. When they do occur, 
the sea, though very heavy in the entrance between the reefs, is much 
less at the anchorage. 

The intersection of the lines of the beacons and the lights marks 
a good outer anchorage in the depth of 4j fathoms'. 

Breakwater pier.— A breakwater pier, 3,476 feet long, extends 
from the eastern shore of the bay northward of White cliff. The 
pier is now of such a length that vessels drawing 12 feet can moor 
alongside at low water, but it is to be lengthened so that vessels 
drawing 20 feet can moor alongside at low water. Vessels rounding 
the head of the pier to moor should leave the front range light on 
the starboard hand. A narrow-gauge railway connects the pier with 
the stores. 

Boats can land on the shores of the bay only near high water. The 
best landing place is near the houses to the southeastward of the 
rear range light. 

Directions. —As cape Henry is a bluff point and the land at the 
head of Ellis bay is very low, the entrance to the bay shows very dis¬ 
tinctly, and can easily be made out from a distance seaward. On 
approaching the bay, cape Eagle and White cliff on the eastern side, 
the houses near the head of the bay and the range-light towers will 
be recognized, while far back in the country to the northward and 
eastward will be seen two ridges of hills. Though the long line of 
breakers on either side and the numerous large stones on the flats 
do not present an inviting appearance, no danger will be encountered 
if the following directions are observed: 

From the westward, with westerly winds, run down outside of the 
reefs off cape Henry, keeping in 10 fathoms, until the two beacons 


104 


ISLANDS IN THE GULE OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


on White cliff are in line, bearing 6° ; then haul up with this range on, 
which leads into smooth water, of about 4| fathoms, 500 yards from 
Cape Henry reef. When the range lights at the head of the bay are 
in line, bearing 343°, proceed up the bay, keeping the range lights on, 
and anchor in 3 or 34 fathoms, a little to the westward of the range 
lights, or, if desired, on the range with cape Henry, bearing 223°. 
From the southeastward, with an easterly wind, keep outside the 
reefs, not closing Cape Eagle reef to a depth of less than 7 fathoms. 
When the range lights at the head of the bay are in line, proceed 
up the bay with this range on, and anchor as above directed. If 
desired to take the outer anchorage, follow the above directions to 
the intersection of the line of range beacons with that of the range 
lights, or vice versa, and anchor at the intersection in 4J fathoms, or 
stand 300 yards above the intersection on the line of range lights 
and anchor a little to the westward of the other range, in 4 fathoms, 
with the south tangent of cape Henry 271°. With either westerly or 
easterly winds, take care not to go too near the lee side of the channel, 
nor approach the reefs closer than 3 fathoms. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Ellis bay at 2 h. 0 m.; 
springs rise 6 feet and neaps 4 feet. 

Supplies. —Fresh beef, bread, and vegetables can be obtained at 
Ellis bajr, and are delivered at the pier at the following prices: 1907— 
beef, 6Jd. (13.7 cents) per pound; bread, ljd. (24 cents) per pound; 
vegetables, 14d. (3 cents) per pound; fresh water, ice, bait, and fish¬ 
eries stores can also be obtained. 

The coast from cape Henry to West point, trending northwest¬ 
ward 7J miles, is bordered by reefs extending off about 14 miles, and 
should be approached with caution. Navigators must keep the lead 
going and pscy close attention to the soundings. 

West point is low and wooded, with reefs extending 1 mile off it, 
and may be passed in 15 fathoms water at the distance of If miles. 

Light. —On West point a circular stone tower, 109 feet high, 
painted white, with two red vertical stripes, exhibits, at 112 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 15 miles. The keeper’s dwelling is attached to the 
lighthouse. 

Fog signal.— During thick or foggy weather and in snowstorms 
an explosive fog signal is fired every 15 minutes; if a vessel’s fog 
signal is heard in dangerous proximity an additional signal is fired 
and repeated every 5 minutes. 

Marine signal and telegraph station.— There is a marine signal 
station, which is included in Lloyd’s system of reporting stations, at 
the lighthouse. It is also a telegraph and ice-report station. 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


105 


English bay is about 1^ miles northeastward of West point. It 
contains a settlement of about 250 inhabitants, situated in the middle 
of a clearing some 100 acres in extent. The settlers occupy well-built 
two-story wooden houses. The settlement contains a sawmill, with 
planing and grooving plant, and lathes; a blacksmith’s shop; car¬ 
penters’, wheelwrights’, tinsmiths’, and plumbers’ shops. The ar¬ 
tisans build very good whaleboats about 25 feet long, of French type. 

Pier. —In the bay there is a pier, about 200 yards long, having, at 
low water springs, 4 feet water at its outer end. There is a flagstaff 
within the pier. 

Beacons—Lights.— On the pier two beacons, consisting of white 
disks on posts, in line 143°, lead clear of, but close to, the reefs on 
the western side of the bay. There are two fixed lights on the pier, 
the inner green and the outer red. 

Anchorage. —Vessels anchoring should keep eastward of the line 
of the beacons, with the beacons a little open. If of deep draft, stand 
in on the line of the beacons until the base of West Point lighthouse 
is in line with high-water mark on the point northward of the light¬ 
house. A third-class cruiser anchored in 10 fathoms, with the bea¬ 
cons in line 143°, and an overhanging bluff 73°. The pier lights in 
line mark the anchorage for the steamer which runs about once a 
week to Quebec. 

Caution. —As the surveys in this region are very incomplete, the 
chart must be used with great caution. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office at English bay. 

North coast. —The north coast between West and North points, 
tending about 79°, a distance of about 16 miles, is low, with reefs 
of flat limestone extending 1 mile off it. There are moderate depths 
for over 1 mile outside the reefs, but the reefs should not be ap¬ 
proached nearer than a depth of 25 fathoms. At a mile or two 
inland, and about midway between West and North points, are the 
two hills or ridges mentioned as landmarks for Ellis bay. 

Beacon. —A conspicuous open framework white tower, used for 
surveying purposes, is situated about 67°, 2.6 miles from West Point 
lighthouse. 

North point is wooded, of moderate height, and without any cliff: 
it can be distinguished only by the change of direction of about two 
points in the coast line which takes place at it. 

Current.— Off the coast, between West point and North point, 
there is sometimes, during westerly winds, an easterly current with 
a rate of 4 mile—seldom more. This current may be imperceptible 
during the westgoing tidal stream: and upon the approach of easterly 
winds it mav set westward. The current off North point with westerly 


106 


ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE. 


to southwesterly winds generally sets northeastward at a rate of about 
1 mile during the eastgoing stream and of about 4 mile during the 
westgoing stream in the offing. 

High Cliff point, about 105°, 13 miles from North point, is notice¬ 
able from having a talus (a sloping heap of fragments of rock) in 
front of it, or between it and the sea, which therefore does not reach 
the actual base of the cliff. 

The coast from High Cliff point to West cliff', about 107°, 26 
miles, is low; but there are ridges of considerable elevation a few 
miles inland. From this coast, reefs extend about 14 miles to sea¬ 
ward, beginning about 1 mile eastward of High Cliff point, and con¬ 
tinuing for about 10 miles eastward, whence to West cliff they reach 
only about 1 mile from the land. The soundings about a mile sea¬ 
ward of the reefs vary from 5 to 44 fathoms until near West cliff, 
off which, at the distance of 14 miles from the surf, there are 72- 
fathoms. 

West cliff, appearing like a white patch on the land, is remarkable, 
for there is no other high cliff near it. It can be seen from a distance 
of 20 miles. 

The coast from West cliff to Bear head, trending in a general 
east-southeasterly direction, is bold, the 100-fathom curve being from 
44 to 74 miles distant. The coast has numerous small bights and 
headlands; but offers no anchorage except two mentioned below. Low 
cliffs commence 4 miles southeastward of West cliff and continue to 
Charleton point, which is 10 miles, 107°, from West cliff. About 5 
miles southeastward of Charleton point, the coast turns south-south¬ 
east for 24 miles and then trends almost due east for 3 miles to cape 
Observation. 

In the bight just southeastward of Charleton point, where wood 
and water may be obtained, there is anchorage during fine weather 
with westerly winds. 

Cape Observation, 115°, 10 miles from Charleton point, is a bold, 
high headland having just westward of it a range of grayish 
white cliffs some 400 feet high. At the extremity of the cape these 
cliffs become suddenly much lower, and then rise again to their 
former elevation for a short distance eastward of the cape. Under 
the lee of cape Observation during westerly winds and fine weather 
there is anchorage, where supplies of wood and water may be ob¬ 
tained conveniently. 

Bear head, composed of grayish white cliffs 400 feet high, lies 
124 miles, 122°, from cape Observation, which it somewhat resembles. 
The two may be distinguished from each other by the fact that to 
the westward of the vicinity of Bear head there are some cliffy head¬ 
lands about as high as Bear head, while there are no such headlands 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


107 


to the westward of cape Observation. The intervening coast is of the 
same character as Bear head, and is bold, with small bays between 
the cliffs. Guy point is the cliff about 4 miles to the northwestward 
of Bear head. 

Bear bay, lying between Bear head and cape Robert, which is 
nearly 6 miles, 130°, from the former, is by far the best roadstead 
on the north coast of Anticosti. It is sufficiently roomy, with excel¬ 
lent holding ground, in a moderate depth of water, and is sheltered 
from northwest, through west and south, to southeast. 

Cape Robert consists of cliffs similar in height and color to those 
of Bear head. Within the bay there are two other points of cliffs 
300 feet high, the southern of which is Tower point. 

Bear bay is divided into three smaller bays by these two high points. 
In each of these bays there are fine bold beaches of sand and lime¬ 
stone shingle, and streams where water can be easily obtained. The 
principal of these streams is Bear river, which enters the southern 
of the three bays, close southeastward of Tower point; it is too shal¬ 
low and rapid to admit boats, but the water is clear and good. The 
cliffs in Bear bay are of grayish white limestone, in thin strata, dip¬ 
ping very slightly to the southward, and are perpendicular or over¬ 
hanging. At the extreme points the cliffs are rounded by the action 
of wind and water so as to resemble towers, a resemblance that is in¬ 
creased by the masonrylike appearance of the rock. 

The trees about the bay are of diminutive growth. 

Anchorage.—The best anchorage is between Tower point and 
cape Robert, in 13 fathoms, brown mud, with Tower point bearing 
285°, distant 1 mile, and Bear head 322°. 

The coast from cape Robert to Table head, 18 miles distant, trends 
in a general southeasterly direction. It is broken into small bays with 
shingle beach and small streams between high headlands that ter¬ 
minate at the sea in perpendicular cliffs. The principal of these 
headlands are cape Henry, 400 feet high; Joseph point, and cape 
James, 150 feet high. 

None of the bays, except Prinsta (described below) afford good an¬ 
chorage. 

Prinsta bay, immediately northwestward of Table hill, has excel¬ 
lent anchorage at its head in 5 to 9 fathoms water—bottom clay or 
mud— anc l sheltered from all winds from north-northwest, through 
west, to east-southeast. 

Water can be obtained from a stream which flows into the south¬ 
eastern corner of the bay. 

Tidal streams. —Between West cliff and Table head there is gen¬ 
erally very little stream in either direction. 


108 ISLANDS IN THE GULF OF ST. LAWKENCE. 

Table head, 117°, 18 miles from cape Robert, rises to Table hill, 
a densely wooded summit 260 feet in height, but having very little 
resemblance to a table. A limestone ledge extends J mile off the 
head, and the 5 fathoms curve is 800 yards distant from it. 

The coast from Table head trends 136°, 3^ miles to Fox point, 
and has a flat reef extending about £ mile from it. Nearly midway 
between Table head and Fox point a break in the reef affords, at 
low water in moderate weather, sheltered landing for boats. At a 
distance of 2 miles from the coast thickly wooded ridges, rising to 
a height of 220 feet, extend southward; the space between the coast 
and the ridges alternating in swamps and patches of dense wood. 

Fox bay, 1^ miles southward of Fox point, is about 1 mile wide 
and deep, with a sandy beach at its head, where there is a stream drain¬ 
ing the ponds and swamps mentioned above. The north shore is 
foul for a distance of 600 yards and the south shore for 400 yards. 
In the middle of the bay there are depths of 2J to 2f fathoms, the 
latter over a muddy bottom; the space is fairly well sheltered from 
the sea by the shoals fronting the bay and affords anchorage to 
the small fishing vessels frequenting this vicinitj^ in summer. It is 
said to afford good anchorage also to vessels drawing up to 15 feet. 

On the southern shore of the bay are situated the telegraph office 
and the houses of about 10 resident families, while on the western 
shore, on a bank of gravel which lies between the bay and a fresh¬ 
water lake, is the lobster canning establishment, comprising factory, 
stores, etc. 

Reef point, the southern entrance point of Fox bay, is low and flat, 
and behind it are several lagoons and swamps. Shoal water extends 
from the point northeastward f mile to the depth of 3 fathoms; 
and close beyond it is a detached shoal 4 mile long and 400 yards 
broad, with 9 feet on it at low water. The whole of the summit of 
the ridge on Table head open northward of Fox point leads close 
eastward of this shoal. 

Supplies. —Bait, ice, fishing supplies, and provisions can be ob¬ 
tained at Fox bay. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Fox bay. 

The coast from Reef point to East cape trends southeastward 10 
miles, and is of limestone cliffs 100 feet high, but with reefs and foul 
ground extending off it in some places. 

Wreck point is 3 miles southward of Reef point, the intermediate 
coast forming a small bight, which does not afford anchorage. The 
shore reef extends more than 200 yards from the point, and foul 
ground extends southward 1 mile. 


ANTICOSTI ISLAND. 


109 


At If miles inland the ridge back of Wreck point rises to a wooded 
summit 316 feet high with a bluff at its northern end; and a little 
southward of the high summit are tw T o remarkable detached summits 
on the ridge extending toward East cape. This is the most con¬ 
spicuous land in the southeastern part of the island. 

Cape Sandtop, 2 miles southward of Wreck point, is a remarkable 
headland rising steeply to a height of 120 feet, and is composed of 
marl and gravel that from seaward resembles white sand. 

There is no secure anchorage in the bight between Wreck point 
and cape Sandtop. 

The coast. —Southward of cape Sandtop the limestone cliffs con¬ 
tinue to a conspicuous perpendicular bluff, 116 feet high, and from 
this they fall gradually toward East cape, forming Gull Cliff bay, a 
small bight, in which there is anchorage with westerly winds in 
10 to 12 fathoms, over sand and rock. 

Tidal streams. —Between Table head and East cape there is an 
almost constant stream setting southward, with an occasional weak 
eddy close to the shore setting northeastward. 


CHAPTER HI. 


GUT OF CANSO-CAPE BRETON ISLAND, WEST COAST-GEORGE 

BAY. 

Variation in 1908. 

Eddy Point_23° 10' W. I Clietican Point_24° 30' W. 

Cape George_23° 15' W. I Cape North_25° 15' W. 

General remarks.— In the first chapter a general description of, 
and general directions for, the gulf of St. Lawrence were given. In 
the second chapter the islands in the gulf were specifically described. 
In the present and following chapters it is intended to describe, first, 
the southern entrance and shores of the gulf and estuary, and then 
the northern. After this the shores of the river will be taken up. 

The above would seem to be the best arrangement, because the 
descriptions and directions come in their logical order. 

Cabot’strait, the middle and main entrance to the gulf, needs no 
special description, and general directions for it were given in the 
first chapter. 

The southern and eastern coasts of Cape Breton island are de¬ 
scribed in Hydrographic Office publication No. 99, “ Bay of Fundy, 
Southeast Coast of Nova Scotia, and South and East Coasts of Cape 
Breton Island/’ The approaches to the gut of Canso and the gut 
itself are described in the same publication. It is well, however, to 
describe in the present work the gut of Canso, because it is so inti¬ 
mately connected with the gulf of St. Lawrence. 

Gut of Canso. 

The gut of Canso, separating the mainland of Nova Scotia from 
Cape Breton island, and forming the southwestern entrance of the 
gulf of St. Lawrence, is of great and increasing importance in the 
navigation of that gulf and its tributary waters. The number of 
vessels annually passing through the gut amounts to several thousand, 
and is constantly increasing with the trade and population of the 
neighboring countries. Not only do the numerous fishermen, coal 
traders, and coasting vessels to and from the ports of the United 
States, New Brunswick, Newfoundland, and Nova Scotia, use this 
passage, but also many vessels trading between Great Britain and 
110 







GUT OF CANSO. 


HI 


the southern parts of the gulf of St. Lawrence. It is by far the best 
route for these last, if they are sailing vessels, especially when home¬ 
ward bound in the fall of the year, as it affords them safe anchorage 
until an opportunity offers for sailing with the first of a northerly 
or westerly wind, thus securing a safe offing before the occurrence of 
the thick weather which almost always accompanies winds from the 
contrary quarter. 

The length of the passage through the gut, from the lighthouse on 
Eddy point at the southeastern entrance*to the lighthouse at the 
northwestern entrance, is 144 miles, and its least breadth, between 
Balache point and cape Porcupine, is 900 yards. The depth of water 
in the channel is less than 15 fathoms in only a few places, and in 
the deepest part, off cape Porcupine, it reaches 31 fathoms. This 
great depth, the rapidity of the tidal streams, and the rocky or gravel 
bottom, render anchorage unsafe, except at the places herein 
described. 

The coast.—Except for a short distance northward of Port 
Hawkesburv and at Ghost beach, the character of the shore on either 
sifle is high, the land rising from it more or less abruptly, to the 
summits of ridges of considerable elevation. Cape Porcupine, a 
precipitous headland on the western shore, G40 feet high, is the most 
remarkable feature, and the scenery in its vicinity is of great beauty. 
The shores on both sides of the gut are generally bold, but there are 
several small rocks and shoals at no great distance off the land. There 
are settlements on each side that are increasing, especially at the sev¬ 
eral anchoring places, where supplies may be obtained. 

The rocks, forming the shores on both sides, belong to the lower 
members of the coal formation, and are slates, conglomerates, sand¬ 
stones; sometimes containing fossils, gypsum and gypsiferous marls, 
with occasionally carboniferous limestone. This last, containing 
fossils, is well displayed at Port Hastings, where there are also large 
beds of white gypsum, which at once point out that anchorage. 

Caution. —As the soundings are sparse, vessels should approach 
either shore of the gut with caution. 

Ice. —Owing to ice, navigation is suspended from about the be¬ 
ginning of January to the end of April. 

Eddy point, the southern entrance point to the gut, is of sand 
and gravel, inclosing a small pond. 

Light.— A square lighthouse, 44 feet high, painted white with a 
black diamond on the seaward side, and with a red lantern, on Eddy 
point, exhibits, at 55 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

A dwelling is attached to the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 


112 


GUT OF CANSO. 


Eddy spit, of sand and stones, extends \ mile northeastward 
from high water mark on Eddy point; it is almost always shown by 
the rippling of the tidal stream. 

Buoy.—A large black can buoy is moored in 9 fathoms close north¬ 
eastward of the spit. 

Clearing mark.— Ship point and Bear island in line, bearing 302°, 
leads about 200 yards northeastward of the shoal. 

Martin shoal, of rock,- extends nearly 350 yards off the western 
shore of the gut, 2 miles 286° from Eddy point. 

Clearing mark. —Melford and Critchet points in line, bearing 
301°, leads just outside its edge, in 4 fathoms. 

Bear head lies 314°, 2J miles from Eddy point, and is the south¬ 
eastern entrance point of the gut. Shoal water extends nearly 400 
yards southeastward of it. 

Bear island, situated J mile westward of the head, is connected 
to the shore eastward of the island by a shingle spit. 

Light.— From the middle of Bear island, a square wooden lantern 
rising from the roof of a square wooden dwelling, 35 feet high, exr 
hibits, at 42 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. The dwelling and the 
lantern are painted white, with red roofs. 

Bear reef extends nearly 300 yards southward from Bear island, 
and has 3 to 15 feet at low water over large rocks. 

Caution is necessary in approaching these shoals, for the water is 
deep near them, and there are no good clearing marks. 

Anchorage.— At Critchet cove, between Park and Critchet points, 
on the western shore of the gut, and 1^ miles westward from Bear 
head, there is a shallow bank of mud and sand, on which small ves¬ 
sels frequently anchor, but of which vessels of deep draft should be¬ 
ware. Its outer edge, in 5 fathoms, is near £ mile offshore. 

Ship rock, with 6 feet least water over it, is 140 yards off the 
eastern shore of the gut at 2.1 miles 302° from Bear island and \ 
mile same bearing from Ship point. 

It is marked by a spherical steel buoy painted red. This buoy must 
be left on the starboard hand by vessels proceeding northward 
through the gut, and on the port hand by those proceeding southward. 

Clearing mark. —Ship point and Bear head in line, bearing 
120°, leads 40 yards outside the rock, and, therefore, in standing 
toward it from the north, tack before the head and point are in line. 
In standing through the gut from the south the buoy must be the 
guide. It will, of course, be visible before the vessel can get in any 
danger. 


CAHIL ROCK-PORT HAWKESBURY. 


113 


Anchorages. —There are indifferent anchorages, either open to 
certain winds or with loose holding ground, in Eddy, Critchet, and 
Byers coves; eastward of Bear head; northwestward of Bear island; 
tiff Doolan pond and Madden cove, and in Pirate or Holland cove, 
where vessels frequently wait for wind or tide in fine summer 
weather, and to which the chart is the guide.* 

Cah.il rock, which dries at low water, lies 120 yards off the western 
shore of the gut, nearly 2J miles northwestward of Critchet point and 
$ mile southeastward of Holland cove. 

Clearing mark. —Roger point in line with the northeastern side 
of Pirate island (which is seen over the low shingle rock of Pirate 
point), bearing 301°, leads 120 yards outside the rock. 

Madden point is on the eastern side of the gut, 2J miles north¬ 
westward of Ship point. The western terminus of the Cape Breton 
railway to St. Peter is situated on the point, but a branch connects 
with the Intercolonial at Port Hawkesbury. 

Wharf. —A railway wharf has been built out 260° 200 feet into 
the gut at 200 yards southward of Madden point, and it is reported 
that vessels drawing 20 feet can go alongside its outer end. 

Point Tupper, about 1,400 yards northwestward of Madden point, 
is the southern entrance point of Port Hawkesburv. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, situated 147 feet back from point Tupper, exhibits at 54 
feet above high water a fixed red light that should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 7 miles. 

Shoal. —A rocky shoal, with less than 16 feet of water, extends 
300 yards southward from point Tupper. The edge of the shoal is 
steep, and the depth off it increases almost immediately to 5 fathoms. 

Railway ferry. —The Cape Breton branch of the Intercolonial 
railway has its western terminus at point Tupper, where a large 
group of wharves has been built immediately southward of the light¬ 
house. These wharves have a frontage of about 500 feet and extend 
about 400 feet into the gut; upon them is built the railway station 
and sheds, the whole forming a conspicuous mark. 

From point Tupper the ferry crosses to the terminus of the main¬ 
land branch at Murray cove. The Scotia, the double-ended railway 
ferry ice-breaking steamer, is constructed to carry, on three sets of 
rails on deck, 9 railway sleeping cars, each 80 feet long and weighing 
52 tons unloaded. 

The railway ferry is open throughout the year. 

Hospital. —A marine hospital is maintained at point Tupper. 

Port Hawkesbury is a large cove, terminated by a bridge nearly 
1 mile from its entrance. There is a settlement, with two chapels, 
50918—08-8 


114 


GUT OF CANSO. 


on the northeastern side of the harbor, and there are stations of the 
Intercolonial and the Inverness and Richmond railways. 

Vessels winter at the wharves in safety. 

In 1901 the population of the settlement was 633. 

The United States^ is represented by a consular agent. 

Premier shoal, with 12 feet least water, soft mud, is a middle 
ground in the entrance of the port. It may be passed on either side, 
but the wider and deeper channel is northward of it. 

It is reported (1904) that the least water on this shoal is 3£ 
fathoms, and that it is so soft that vessels go over it if desired. 

Clearing mark. —Point Tupper and the western end of Pirate 
island in line, bearing 191°, leads westward of the shoal in 5 fathoms. 
This mark is useful only to vessels desiring to anchor. Those passing 
through would not be so far to the eastward. 

Anchorage. —The roadstead off the mouth of this harbor, and 
outside Premier shoal, is much frequented by vessels detained by 
southeasterly winds. The depth in the roadstead is from 7 to 9 
fathoms, over sand, gravel, and mud bottom, with Pirate island open 
westward of point Tupper. 

This anchorage is open to northwesterly winds, which blow di¬ 
rectly through the gut, causing at times a heavy sea, with very rough 
riding. There is quite secure anchorage w T ell in toward the head of 
the harbor, in 3^ fathoms, out of the tidal streams. 

Prohibited anchorage. —Anchorage is prohibited between point 
Tupper and Murray cove in the track of the railway ferry. 

Ice. —The port is usually frozen over about the 3d of February, 
and clear of ice about the 23d of April, being completely closed only 
at intervals between those dates. Field ice comes in and disappears 
about the same dates as the harbor ice. The first vessel arrives about 
the 5th of April, and the last one leaves about the 22d of December. 

Directions. —Vessels of less than 12 feet draft may enter Port 
Hawkesbury without difficulty, passing over Premier shoal at all 
times; but vessels of deeper draft should use the channel northward 
of that danger, and proceed as follows: 

From outside of the shoal bring Ivavanagh point, a low sandstone 
and sandy beach on the northeastern side of the harbor, to bear 
117°, when a large store built on piles, farther up the harbor, will be 
in line with it, and the end of the wharf off the settlement will be just 
in sight. Run in with these marks on until point Tupper bears 
124°, when the vessel will be within Premier shoal, and may steer 
to the southward into the middle of the harbor. The channel south¬ 
ward of the shoal is neither so deep nor so wide as that northward, 
but it is more convenient for sailing vessels with southerly winds, in 
which case the chart and the lead will be sufficient guides. 


PIRATE *0R HOLLAND COVE-PORT HASTINGS. 


115 


Repairs. —At Port Hawkesbury there are three marine railways, 
which can take vessels of 1,000, 200, and 130 tons, respectively. The 
largest is 200 feet long, 45 feet wide, and at high water ordinary 
springs has 20 feet of water over the cradle. 

Quarantine. —Port Hawkesbury is a minor quarantine station. 

Communication.— Besides communication by railway and tele¬ 
graph, Port Hawkesbury has communication twice a week with 
Pictou by steamer. 

Pirate or Holland cove.—Pirate island, small, rocky, and 
united to the mainland b} r a beach of shingle, forms the southeast¬ 
ern point of Pirate cove; and all within the island and a line drawn 
across to the wharves on the northwestern side of the cove is dry at 
low water, except a narrow boat channel, carrying 3 feet of water, 
which leads to the bridge across the cove at the head of the port, and 
about £ mile from its entrance. 

The anchorage in this cove, although deep enough, is incon¬ 
veniently small for large ships, but safe and good for small vessels. 
The best berth for anything larger than a fishing schooner is in 7 
or 8 fathoms, mud bottom, with the northeast tangent of Pirate 
island bearing 123°, distant 200 yards. 

Port Mulgrave is on the western shore of the gut, opposite point 
Tupper. The settlement contains a small English church. Vessels 
passing are reported by telegraph. 

Murray cove is the southern cove of Port Mulgrave. 

Venus cove, the northern cove of Port Mulgrave, is a good water¬ 
ing place, has wharves for landing at all stages of the tide, and af¬ 
fords excellent anchorage, especialty in northwesterly winds. The 
best berth is in 6 to 7 fathoms, mud, directly off the mouth of the 
cove, with Macnair point 400 yards distant and in line with Port 
Hastings, bearing 348°. 

Railway—Wharves.— Port Mulgrave is connected with the rail¬ 
way system of Canada by the Intercolonial railway. Wharves, 
together with a railway station, have been built on the southern side 
of Murray cove; the railway ferry crosses to these wharves. 

Coal can be delivered to vessels at the wharves at Port Hawkes¬ 
bury and Port Mulgrave, but there are no special facilities for such 
service. 

Port Hastings (Plaister cove), on the eastern shore, and 
2.4 miles northwestward of Port Hawkesbury, is the first safe anchor¬ 
age after entering the gut from the northward. On its northwestern 
side, and a short distance back from the bridge near its entrance, there 
are conspicuous cliffs of white gypsum. 120 feet high. The head of 
the port, which forms a cove, is dry at low water. 


116 


GUT OF CANSO. 


The town contains a post-office, a large and noticeable telegraph 
office, whence electric cables cross the gut to the mainland, and a 
station of the Inverness and Richmond railway. There is a conspicu¬ 
ous church just westward of the port. 

Notice boards, warning vessels not to anchor near the line of the 
cables, are erected on Balache point and cape Porcupine. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Port Hastings. 

Dixon rock, said to have 6 feet water over it, but on which not 
less than 12 feet was found, bears 157°, 140 yards from Mackeen point, 
and 236°, 240 yards from the western point of Port Hastings. 

Anchorage. —The anchorage at Port Hastings is convenient and 
safe in all winds. In northerly gales the swell, deflected by cape Por¬ 
cupine, causes rather uneasy riding, but it does not endanger vessels 
well anchored in a clear berth. 

Piers. —At the port the Inverness and Richmond Railway Com¬ 
pany have constructed a coal-shipping pier for steamers, Avith the 
railway running on it. There is an inner pier for schooners. 

Directions. —To avoid Dixon rock and choose a good berth, keep 
the cove open, so that the whole of the bridge, as well as the white 
cliffs above it, are visible. In anchoring a large vessel, keep Balache 
point well open, and do not go into less than 7 fathoms water; but 
small vessels may anchor in 4 to 5 fathoms, with mud bottom. The 
bottom becomes sandy out toward the steep edge of the bank in 10 
fathoms, after which it is rocky in the deep water and strength of the 
tidal streams. 

The tidal eddies render it advisable to moor, especially in large 
vessels making any stay, in which case one anchor should be placed 
well to the southward, in 9 to 10 fathoms water. 

Tides and tidal streams.— It is high water, full and change, in 
Port Hastings at 9h. 10m.; ordinary springs rise 4^ feet, neaps 3 feet; 
extraordinary tides sometimes rise 6 to 7 feet, and at other times only 
2 feet. 

The tidal streams at this anchorage are eddies, often running ir¬ 
regularly, but generally in a contfary direction to the main stream 
in the channel, and at a rate seldom exceeding 1 knot. 

Coal can be obtained at Port Hastings, but there is no information 
as to the quantity. 

Water. —There is an excellent watering place on the western shore 
of the gut, in the bay between Keaton point and cape Porcupine. 

Balache point is on the eastern side of the gut, J mile northwest¬ 
ward of Mackeen point. 

Balache rock, which nearly dries at low water, lies in the bay 
between these points, 200 yards eastward of Balache point and 100 
yards offshore. 


MADAGASCAR ROCK-DIRECTIONS. 


117 


Light.—From a white square wooden tower 32 feet high, on 
Balache point, is exhibited, at an elevation of 44 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be visible in clear weather a 
distance of 12 miles. 

Madagascar rock, dry at low water, lies not quite 100 yards off 
the western shore, under the highest part of cape Porcupine, with 
Balache point bearing 12°. The rippling of the tidal stream over 
this rock can generally be seen; nevertheless, its situation, off a pro¬ 
jecting point in the narrowest part of the passage, nearly in the full 
strength of the tide, and at a place where sudden flaws of wind from 
various directions are frequent, renders it very dangerous, and it 
should be given a wide berth. 

Mill creek is on the western shore 159°, nearly 1 mile from Ba¬ 
lache point. Vessels occasionally anchor off the creek in fine weather, 
but the anchorage is open to northerly winds, which often commence 
suddenly and send in a heavy sea; and irregular eddies render it dif¬ 
ficult to keep a clear anchor. 

The shores.—The eastern shore of the gut trends about north- 
northwestward from Balache point for 4 miles to Heffernan point, 
and the western shore about northwestward from Mill creek for 4| 
miles to North Canso lighthouse. 

Light .—North Canso lighthouse, a square, white building, 35 feet 
high, 120 yards back of high water mark at the western side of the 
northern entrance of the gut, and about 4 miles northwestward of 
Balache point, exhibits, at 110 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 16 miles. 
From the westward the light is obscured over Jack shoal, or when 
bearing eastward of 121°, by trees. 

Anchorage.—Under the lighthouse and within ^ mile southeast¬ 
ward of it there is tolerable anchorage in all but northerly winds. 

Use of chart.—In the foregoing remarks it has not been con¬ 
sidered necessary to describe every point of land, nor to describe 
minutely those points and places that have been mentioned. 

The chart is constructed on such a scale that it clearly shows detail 
and its use wfill enable the navigator to recognize and pass all places 
that have or have not been described. 

Gut of Canso—Directions.—There is little difficulty in navi¬ 
gating the gut of Canso, either with a leading or a beating wind. 
When beating northward into the gulf, the aim should be to gain the 
anchorage at Port Hastings, and to start thence with the turn of the 
tide, so as to secure a good offing in George bay before the ebb makes. 
The chart will enable the navigator to plot the ship at all times dur¬ 
ing the day by bearings. 


118 


GUT OF CANSO. 


It is well to be careful concerning the tidal streams which are 
strong, and not let them get control of the vessel. 

The distance across the bay from cape George, the northwestern 
point of George bay, to North Canso light, at the northwestern en¬ 
trance of the gut, is 20J miles. The approach from the northward, 
through George bay, is unattended with difficulty or danger, ex¬ 
cepting in fogs or snowstorms. The soundings are then the only 
guides, and they are sufficient in all ordinary cases. If possible, strike 
soundings on the bank off Long point, and then follow the edge of the 
bank along the coast of Cape Breton island, in the low water depth of 
10 fathoms, to the entrance of the gut. The weather is seldom so 
thick, especially in a breeze of wind, that some part of the shore is 
not seen before the vessel has run far after entering so narrow a 
strait as the entrance to the gut. 

With a beating wind, tack off and on the same shore, until sound¬ 
ings are struck (in the board to the westward, and after crossing the 
deep water) on the edge of the bank off cape Jack, where, if at night, 
and the fog so thick that the light is obscured, it is advisable to anchor 
and wait for a change. The ground there is not good, but it is out of 
the strength of the tides, and an anchor will hold in moderate weather. 
The anchorage, 4 mile southeastward of the lighthouse and on the 
same side of the channel, should be preferred if attainable; it has 
some spots of mud in which an anchor holds well in 7 to 9 fathoms, 
and where the strength of the tide is not great. 

Vessels proceeding southward through the gut very frequently meet 
a southerly or southeasterly wind, usually accompanied by fog and 
rain; in this case the roadstead off Port Hawkesbury is a roomy and 
convenient anchorage. Eddy cove, from its more advanced position 
at the southeastern entrance of the gut, offers, to vessels sailing with 
the first of a fair wind, a better chance of clearing Chedabucto bay 
and the Canso ledges before dark; but as the ground here is not good, 
and the anchorage is open to northerly winds, it is recommended only 
in fine, settled, summer weather. Turbalton bay is much more secure, 
but it is rather small for a large and weakly manned vessel to weigh 
from, should a strong wind set in suddenly from the westward. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Bear head at 8h. 30m.; springs rise 4J feet, neaps 3 feet; and at the 
north entrance of the gut high water at 9h. 15m.; springs rise 4 feet, 
neaps 2 feet; in both places extraordinary tides may rise 6 to 7 feet, 
or only 2 feet. The rise and fall of the tides on the shore usually con¬ 
tinue through nearly equal periods of time, but the turn of the v tidal 
streams (the flood setting northward and the ebb southward) varies 
from 1 to 4 hours after high and low water on the shore. 

The rate of the stream off cape Porcupine, where it, is greatest, is 
ordinarily about 4 knots, but occasionally it reaches 5 knots. At most 


TIDES AND TIDAL STREAMS. 


119 


of the anchorages, and under almost every point in the gut, there are 
eddies usually running in the opposite direction to the main stream 
outside, but at a much inferior rate, and they render great attention 
necessary to insure a clear anchor. 

The set of the flood stream from the northern entrance of the gut 
is nearly toward cape George, diminishing rapidly in strength as it 
expands in width in advancing to the northward. In the western 
part of George bay it is weak, sweeping round the bay to the north¬ 
westward, with slight indrafts toward Pomquet, Antigonish, etc. 
The ebb stream sets in the contrary direction. 

On the eastern side of George bay the flood stream from the gut 
is usually met by a much weaker and contrary stream of flood com¬ 
ing from the northeastward along the western coast of Cape Breton 
island. These opposing flood streams will be found in general to 
unite somewhere off the Judique shoals and then to set toward 
the northwest. Likewise in general the two corresponding ebb 
streams diverge from about the same place, the one setting toward 
the gut, with increasing strength as it proceeds to the southward and 
narrows, and the other setting in the contrary direction toward Port 
Hood and weakening. All, however, that has been said respecting 
these streams must be understood to be of usual and not of constant 
occurrence, since they must necessarily partake of the irregularity 
in the strength and duration of the tidal streams of the gut of Canso. 
Nevertheless, it will be very useful and may materially aid the prog¬ 
ress of the vessel for the navigator to bear in mind the above. 

George Bay. 
nova scon a. 

George bay extends 18 miles northward from the gut of Canso, 
and its northern entrance, between Henry island and cape George, is 
13J miles across. Its eastern shore is part of the southwestern coast 
of Cape Breton island. Its southern and western shores are parts of 
the northeastern coast of Nova Scotia. Its navigation is important, 
as it is traversed by the numerous vessels which pass in or out of the 
gulf by the gut. 

Light.—North Canso lighthouse, a square, white building, 35 feet 
high, 120 yards back from high water mark at the western side of 
the northern entrance of the gut, exhibits, at 110 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear weather a dis¬ 
tance of 16 miles. 

Anchorage.—At the distance of \ mile southeast of the lighthouse 
and on the same side of the gut there is tolerable anchorage in all 
but northerly winds. Vessels frequently anchor there to await the 
tide. 


120 


GEORGE BAY, NOVA SCOTIA. 


Havre Bouche is a small but convenient harbor for schooners, 
lying 1.3 miles westward of North Canso lighthouse and between 
that lighthouse and cape Jack. It has a depth of 4 feet at low water 
in its narrow entrance between stony points and 13 to 14 feet within. 
There is a small stream at its head. The shores and neighborhood 
are well cultivated, and there is a church near the shore at 1 mile 
westward of the entrance or halfway toward cape Jack. 

Lights.—A square, white lighthouse, 32 feet high, on the south¬ 
western shore of Havre Bouche harbor, exhibits at 37 feet above high 
w r ater a fixed white light. 

A similar lighthouse at 193°, 473 yards from the above light, ex¬ 
hibits at 107 feet above high water a fixed red light. These lights 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 9 miles, and in line lead 
through the dredged channel over the bar. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Havre Bouche at 
about 9h. 30m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet; but the rise may be 
increased by northerly winds. 

Cape Jack, a cliff of red sandstone, 45 feet high, 269°, nearly 2 
miles from the western entrance point of Havre Bouche, is a promi¬ 
nent headland. 

Jack shoal, extends from the cape, northward 1 mile to 3 
fathoms water and 1J miles to 5 fathoms. Between 4 and J mile 
offshore there are two large patches of rock, which dry at half tide, 
leaving a passage, carrying 12 feet water, between them and the 
cape. 

Caution.—Jack shoal is dangerous in thick weather, when it 
should be approached with great caution, especially from the east¬ 
ward, as the soundings on that side are irregular and deep near the 
shoal, although sufficient to insure safety if the lead be kept going. 
The shoal should not be approached within the lov r v y ater depth of 10 
fathoms. 

North Canso light is obscured bv forest over Jack shoal, or when 
bearing eastward of 121°; by keeping the light in sight, Jack shoal 
is given a berth of over a mile. 

Buoy. — A conical, red buoy, with jack shoal on it in white let¬ 
ters, is moored in 64 fathoms at 14°, 1 mile from Jack shoal. 

Little Tracadie harbor, with only 1 foot at low water over its 
bar, lies 2J miles south westward of cape Jack. Its entrance is in the 
bay between cape Blue and Barrio head, the former of which is of 
limestone and shelters the entrance from northeasterly winds, and the 
latter, a cliff of red sandstone 110 feet high. 

Tracadie harbor, at 2J miles westward of Little Tracadie harbor, 
is separated from the bay by a series of islands and connecting beaches 


TRACADIE VILLAGE—POMQUET OR BAYFIELD ISLAND. 121 

of sand and gravel, and formerly had its entrance westward of 
Delory island through a narrow and crooked channel, with a depth 
of 2 feet in it at low water. In 1863 a passage was dredged on the 
eastern side of the harbor, through a beach which connected the main¬ 
land with Delory island, and a breakwater constructed on its eastern 
side. The channel admits only small craft; it had a depth of 6 feet 
at low water. 

The harbor is extensive, with many coves, islets, and small streams, 
and has 14 feet water in some parts within. Tracadie river, the 
principal of the streams, is at the head of the eastern arm, 2^ miles in 
from the sea. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Little Tracadie and 
Tracadie harbors at about 9h. 30m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet; 
but the rise may be increased by northerly winds. 

Tracadie village, which in 1891 had 440 inhabitants, has a church 
and a station of the Intercolonial railway, and is situated about 1 mile 
within the entrance of the harbor. The church, which is large, can 
be seen from some distance seaward. 

The inhabitants of these small harbors, including Pomquet, are 
Acadians of French extraction, who live principally by agriculture, 
fishing to a limited extent during the herring and mackerel seasons. 

Bowman bank.—Bowman head lies 1J miles westward of Middle 
head, the northeastern point of Delory island, and Quarry point 
is 1^ miles southwestward from Bowman head. Bowman bank runs 
off 2J miles to the north-northwestward from between Bowman head 
and Quarry point: and at | to 1J miles offshore there are rocky patches 
on it, with 13 to 19 feet at low water. When in the vicinity of Bow¬ 
man bank, the light on Pomquet island should not be brought to bear 
to the westward of 229° until it is at least 2 miles distant. 

Little river which admits boats at high water is 1.8 miles west¬ 
ward of Quarry head. Near its entrance is a settlement with a 
church. 

Pomquet, or Bayfield, island, which bears 254° 7} miles from 
cape Jack, and 154° 141 miles from cape George, is 900 yards long 
north and south, about 300 yards broad, of red sandstone, 25 feet 
high, and wooded. It is joined by a reef to Pomquet point, which is 
350 yards southwestward of it: and this reef dries out more than half¬ 
way from the point to the island, leaving a passage between the dry 
reef and the point with 3 feet in it at low water. Shallow water ex¬ 
tends 800 yards northeastward of the island, and a reef, with a large 
rock at its end, dries out 300 yards from the eastern point of the 
island. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 23 feet high, on the north¬ 
eastern end of Pomquet island, exhibits, at 50 feet above high water, 


122 


GEORGE BAY, NOVA SCOTIA. 


a fixed red light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
9 miles. The light is obscured on easterly bearings. 

Fomquet road, the bay between Pomquet point and Little river, 
is considered safe during summer, but the riding must be very heavy 
in northeasterly gales. The road is sheltered by the island and its 
reefs, except from between north and north-northeast. 

A breakwater, 700 feet long, extends off Pomquet point, but it was 
seriously damaged in 1902; a wharf, 442 feet in length, which has a 
depth of 11 feet at low water at its outer end, extends into the road 
at about J mile southward of Pomquet point. 

Anchorage.—There is anchorage in 3 to 6 fathoms, sandy bottom; 
but the best sheltered berth is in 4 fathoms at low water, with the 
southern point of the island bearing 354°, distant \ mile. 

Directions.—Approaching this anchorage from the eastward 
avoid Bowman bank, if the draft makes it necessary, by keeping 
Pomquet Island lighthouse southward of 229°, or in not less than 7 
fathoms water, until the northern point of the bank is passed. 

From the northward, pass \ mile eastward of Pomquet island, or in 
not less than 8 fathoms water, until Pomquet point opens southward 
of the island, when haul westward into the bay. 

Pomquet banks lie between 3 and 6 miles northward of Pom¬ 
quet island. The banks are rocky, with irregular soundings of 6 to 10 
fathoms, the least water of 6 fathoms being situated on the outer 
and smaller of the two banks, with Pomquet Island lighthouse bear¬ 
ing 177°, distant 5J miles. From this position the church at Little 
river is shut in behind the eastern side of Pomquet island. 

Pomquet harbor has its narrow entrance at the eastern end of a 
range of low sand hills and sand beach, 1.8 miles westward of Pom¬ 
quet Island lighthouse, and in the bay between it and Monk head. It 
is an extensive place, branching into two principal and many smaller 
inlets, coves, and islets; and is navigable for small -craft and boats 
nearly 3 miles in from the sea; but it is of no use to shipping, having 
usually a depth of only 2 feet at low water in the narrow channel over 
its shifting bar of sand. The principal settlements and the church 
are on the western shore of the western arm. The Indians have a 
chapel and a reservation of land on the eastern and larger branch, 
into the head of which Pomquet river, a small stream, flows. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Pomquet harbor at 
9h. 15m.: springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2J feet. 

Monk head is a cliff of gypsum, 45 feet high, bearing 289°, 3.9 
miles from Pomquet Island lighthouse. A rocky bank, with 3 fathoms 
least water, extends f mile eastward of it. and there is a patch of 4^ 
fathoms at 75°. 14 miles from the head. 


ANTIGONISH HARBOR. 


123 


A large sheet of water westward of Monk head, locally known as 
Duns lake, is separated from the bay by a beach of sand, and from 
Antigonish harbor by marshy land, in which a channel for boats, 
about 700 feet in length, has been opened between Duns lake and 
Antigonish harbor. 

Antigonish harbor, at 2.6 miles westward of Monk head, is 
nearly 200 yards wide at its entrance, between low points of sand, off 
which a dangerous bar extends eastward \ mile. The bar and the 
deep water up the harbor are marked by spar buoys on either side. 
The bar has a depth of 6 feet at low water, but both the depth and 
direction of the very narrow channel over it change occasionally. 

The harbor is of great extent, running in south westward 6 miles; 
the channel, between flats of mud and weeds, is 9 to 36 feet deep for 
about 4 miles within the entrance. 

The scenery is exceedingly beautiful, the shores being broken into 
numerous coves, points, and islets, while a range of hills rises 760 
feet behind the western shore. There are flourishing farms on either 
side. 

Anchorage off the bar is not good, the bottom being rocky, and 
would be unsafe in a northeasterly gale. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, in 
the entrance of Antigonish harbor at 9h. 0m.; springs rise 4 feet, 
neaps 2 feet. Northerly winds raise the level of the water and south¬ 
erly winds lower it. The rate of the streams in the entrance, ex¬ 
cept that of the ebb in spring after the melting of the snow, seldom 
exceeds 2 knots. 

Antigonish village, containing about 600 inhabitants, and two 
churches, stands at the head of the western arm of Antigonish harbor, 
distant 6J miles from the entrance. Gypsum abounds here, forming, 
with lumber and agricultural produce, the cargoes of the schooners 
that frequent the harbor. 

There is a station of the Intercolonial railway at Antigonish. 

The coast from Antigonish harbor trends northward for 10-J 
miles to Ballantvne cove, the southern side of Cape George headland. 

Ogden pond, 1J miles northward of Antigonish harbor entrance, 
is about 100 acres in extent, 10 feet deep, and is separated from the 
bay by a sand beach 130 to 250 feet in width. A channel, 30 feet 
wide and about 1| feet deep at low water, has been cut through the 
beach, rendering the pond accessible to small craft. 

Mclsaac rock, with 9 feet least water, is the middle of a small 
detached shoal, nearly 600 yards offshore between Mclsaac point and 
a remarkable patch of white gypsum cliff. The rock, which is the 
only danger on the west side of St. George bay. is 2J miles northward 


124 


GEORGE BAY, NOVA SCOTIA. 


of Antigonish harbor entrance, and bears about 48°, 1,200 yards 
from the gypsum patch; it is marked occasionally by heavy breakers. 

Piers.—At 4 miles northward of Antigonish harbor entrance a 
pier extends about 300 feet southward of Crebbing head. At about 
2 miles southward of cape George a breakwater 330 feet long extends 
from the northern side of McNairs cove: the depth at its outer end 
is 12 feet at low water. 

Gape George, the northwestern point of the bay, is a bold and 
precipitous headland, composed principally of slate, conglomerate, 
and trap rocks, rising, at about H miles westward of the cape, GOO 
feet above the sea. Shallow water extends i mile off the cape, and as 
there is a depth of 20 fathoms at J mile off it, little warning of ap¬ 
proach is given by the lead; it should therefore be approached with 
caution in thick weather. There is a church, which makes a good 
landmark, westward of the lighthouse. 

Anchorage may be obtained in westerly winds off Ballantyne 
cove, on the southeastern side of Cape George headland, but the 
ground is not good. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 39 feet high, on the cape, 278°, 
478 yards from Eachren point, its southeastern extreme, exhibits, 
at 350 feet above high water, a revolving white light, that attains its 
greatest brilliancy every 30 seconds, and should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 25 miles. The light is not visible when bearing 
eastward of 113°. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at cape George, at 9h. 
15m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet. 

Tidal streams.—The flood stream from the north entrance of the 
gut sets nearly toward cape George, diminishing rapidly in strength 
as it expands in advancing northward. It is weak in the western 
part of George bay, sweeping round it to the northwest, with slight 
indrafts toward Pomquet and Antigonish. The ebb- stream sets in 
the contrary direction. 

On the eastern side of George bay the flood stream from the gut is 
usually met by a much weaker and contrary stream of flood, setting 
southwestward along the western coast of Cape Breton. These op¬ 
posing flood streams generally unite somewhere off Judique shoals, 
and then set northwestward. The two corresponding ebb streams 
generally separate at about the same place; one setting toward the 
gut, with increasing strength, as it proceeds southward; and the other 
in the contrary direction, toward Port Hood. This must be under¬ 
stood to be of usual, and not of constant, occurrence, since the streams 
partake of the irregularity in the rate and duration of the tidal 
streams of the gut of Canso. 


JUDIQUE shoal and bank. 


125 


George Bay. ' 

CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 

Cape Breton island—West coast.—Crossing the northern en¬ 
trance of the gut of Canso, from North Canso lighthouse to Cape 
Breton island at Heffernan point, a distance of 1.4 miles, for 7 miles 
northward along the western coast of the island there are no detached 
dangers, nor does shallow water anywhere extend \ mile from the 
shore. The land is high and rather barren looking, rising at ■£ mile 
inland to the summit of a ridge 850 feet above the sea, which con¬ 
tinues parallel to the coast for 6 miles to Long point. The only re¬ 
markable object in this distance is the church at Craignish, which 
bears 27°, distant 2| miles from the lighthouse. From Long point a 
low cliff of red sandstone northward to Emersion point, a distance of 
7.3 miles, shoals extend a considerable distance off the coast, making 
it dangerous to approach. 

Judique shoal is of rock, and about 1,600 yards in length west- 
northwest and east-southeast, if only the very shallow part is reck¬ 
oned; but there are patches Avith 2 to 3 fathoms and much rocky 
ground both northward and southward of it. 

The least water, 4 feet, is close to the northwestern point of the 
shoal; and when on it the western extremity of the high land of cape 
Porcupine is in line with Flat and Heffernan points, which form the 
western end of Cape Breton island, at the entrance to the gut of 
Canso, and which bear 162° when in line from the shoal. 

There is a narrow channel with 3J fathoms water between the shoal 
and the land, but only small craft should attempt the passage. 

Buoy.—A red buoy is moored at the western end of Judique shoal. 

Clearing marks.—The whole of the high land of cape Porcupine 
open westward of Heffernan point, 156°, leads westward of Judique 
shoal in 6 fathoms; or the church at Port Hood open westward of 
cape Susan, bearing 3°, leads Avestward of the shoal in 4 fathoms. 

Judique bank, northwestward 2.6 miles from the northwestern 
end of Judique shoal, is a small rocky patch with 4J fathoms least 
water and much foul ground around it. From it cape Linzee and 
the south end of Smith island appear touching, and bearing 4°; 
Judique church, 84°, 3J miles. It must be a\ T oided by vessels of mod¬ 
erate draft when the sea is heavy. 

Clearing marks.—Cape Linzee shut in by the eastern parts of 
Smith island, or the whole of the high land of cape Porcupine open 
westward of Heffernan point, 156°, leads westward of Judique bank. 
North Canso light bearing 160°, or Henry Island light, bearing 357°, 
will gixe both the bank and the shoal a good berth. 


126 


GEORGE BAY, CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


Judique village, 4.8 miles northward of Long point, contains 
a church. Mackay point lies north-northwestward 1.6 miles from the 
church, and a breakwater, 725 feet long, for the protection of fishing 
boats, extends from the point into a depth of 6 feet at low water. 
There is a telegraph office at Judique. 

Ponds.—Judique pond, close northward of Judique church, is 
barred by a sandy ridge, so as to admit boats only at high water; 
shallow water extends 1J miles off it. Catherine pond, at 3 miles, and 
Susan creek, at 5 miles, northward of Judique church, are similar 
places; the latter admits boats at high water, and is situated just 
northward of cape Susan, which is rendered noticeable by the white 
gypsum in its cliffs. 

Port Hood, the only anchorage at all sheltered on the western 
coast of Cape Breton island northward of the gut of Canso, was for¬ 
merly a fairly secure harbor, Smith island being then a peninsula, 
united to the mainland by a range of sand hills which have been en¬ 
tirely swept away and the sand widely spread over the northern 
part of the harbor. The first breach in this sand bar was formed by 
the sea about the year 1827, during a heavy northerly gale; this 
breach was at first a very narrow channel, but being neglected the 
tidal streams have enlarged it with increasing rapidity; and the 
harbor, except in the small bay on the eastern side of Smith island, 
is now unsafe during northerly gales. The intricate northern en¬ 
trance with 12 feet at low water, is used by fishing schooners draw¬ 
ing 12 feet, except in strong northerly winds, when the sea breaks 
heavily. 

Port Hood village is well'situated on the mainland opposite the 
northern part of Smith island; it may be recognized by the steeple 
of the Roman Catholic church, a red brick building, and the stone 
courthouse which are conspicuous. There is a telegraph office at 
Port Hood. 

Supplies of fresh provisions can be obtained, but there is no good 
watering place. 

Spithead, a sandy flat, nearly dry at low water, steep-to and 
usually visible, extending 1,200 yards northeastward from Ports¬ 
mouth point, the southern end of Smith island, affords partial shelter 
from southerly winds, but a strong southerly or southwesterly gale 
of any duration sends in a heavy swell. 

Buoys.—A black buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the edge of the 
shoal water, with Portsmouth point bearing 316°, 400 yards. 

A black buoy is moored at the eastern side of Spithead shoal, with 
Portsmouth point bearing 227°, 1,080 yards. 

Clearing marks.—The southeastern end of the trees northeast¬ 
ward of the village in line with the Roman Catholic church, bearing 


PORT HOOD. 


127 


19°, leads southeastward, and the eastern end of H. Smith's house 
(on Smith island), in line with the western end of the chapel, bearing 
337°, leads eastward of Spithead flat. (See small chart.) 

Rocky shoal.—Off the mainland, but outside the entrance of the 
port, a rocky shoal, with 12 to 18 feet water, and steep-to, runs out 
700 yards at £ mile northward of Ragged point. 

Clearing mark.—Cape Susan and Kate point in line, 270°, leads 
just outside this shoal, but this mark may not be easily made out. 
Another and better mark is Port Hood light and the white stone 
base house to the northeastward, in line bearing 22°. This mark gives 
the shoal a wide berth. Keeping the light on the above bearing will, 
of course, give the shoal the same berth. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 33 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on the cliff southward of Mill creek, at the southeastern 
side of the southern entrance to Port Hood, exhibits, at 55 feet above 
high water, a fixed light that shows white over an arc of 95° from 2° 
to 97°, and red over an arc of 63° from 97° to 160°, and should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

Dean shoal, a steep sandy flat on the mainland side of the port, 
extends 600 yards from the sandy beach at Mill creek. 

Buoy.—A red buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the western edge of 
Dean shoal, with Port Hood lighthouse bearing 121°, distant 750 
yards. 

Clearing mark.—Cape Linzee and Isthmus point in line, bearing 
about 351°, leads nearly 200 yards westward of Dean shoal. This 
mark will also lead clear of all shoal water, including Spithead flat, 
as far southward as opposite Portsmouth point, but not farther. 

Smith island is 2 miles long north and south, and 210 feet high; 
there are flourishing farms on the inner side of the island. Smith’s 
house and barn are on the shores of the bay, on the inner side of the 
island, and those of the younger Smith, together with his fish shed 
and wharf, are farther northeastward and J mile within Smith point, 
the eastern point of the island. With the exception of the sandy beach 
in the above bay, the island is everywhere surrounded by cliffs of 
various heights up to 123 feet. These cliffs are formed of soft reddish 
sandstones, shales, and marls, containing occasionally thin seams of 
coal, with beds of gypsum, limestone, and trap, which last show well 
at the northwestern end of the island. 

Shoal.—A spit with 3 to 6 feet of water over it extends 900 yards 
southward from Smith point. 

Buoys.—A red buoy marks the southern, and a similar buoy the 
eastern, ends of the spit. 

Henry island, or Justaucorps, lies about 1 mile southwestward of 
Smith island. It is 1 mile long, and its greatest height is 195 feet. 


128 


GEORGE BAY, CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


It is of the same rock formation as Smith island and is nearly sur¬ 
rounded with cliffs which yield rapidly to the action of the waves and 
of the atmosphere and which on the outer side are 100 feet high. It 
has no permanent inhabitants, but is much frequented by fishermen 
during the fishing seasons. 

The island is bold to seaward, but shallow water runs out from 
Fishery point, its southeastern extremity, -J mile to the depth of 3 
fathoms, and f mile to 5 fathoms. 

The passage between Henry and Smith islands has numerous rocky 
shoals in it, and is so intricate that it should not be attempted except 
by a seaman in a very small vessel, with fine weather, and with local 
knowledge. 

Light.—An octagonal lighthouse, 53 feet high, its sides painted 
red and white alternately, and the lantern red, on the summit of 
Henry island, at about 34°, 467 yards from Justaucorps point, exhibits, 
at 240 feet above high water, a group revolving white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 22 miles. The light has 
three phases in succession with intervals of 10 seconds between their 
points of greatest brilliancy; these phases being followed by an in¬ 
terval of 40 seconds, during the greater part of which the light is 
eclipsed; the total period of revolution is therefore 1 minute. 

The keeper’s dwelling, a white building, is situated 165 feet south¬ 
ward of the lighthouse. 

Ice.—The harbor is usually frozen over about January 20, and 
is completely closed until about April 20, when the ice clears; field 
ice comes in and disappears about the same times as the harbor ice. 

The first vessel arrives about May 1, and the last leaves about Jan¬ 
uary 1. 

Piers.—A pier, with a depth of 12 to 15 feet at its outer end, ex¬ 
tends off the village on the eastern side of the harbor. The Port Hood 
Coal Company have loading piers here. 

Anchorage.—At the anchorage in the northwestern part of Port 
Hood, formed by the eastern side of Smith’s island, there are depths 
of 3 to 4^ fathoms, mud; and the heavy swell does not roll in round 
the northeastern point of the island, owing to the spit extending 
southward from Smith point. 

Directions.—Pass not less than J mile southward of Henry island, 
steering 76° until the southern end of the trees northeastward of Port 
Hood village is in line with the Roman Catholic church, bearing 19°, 
and then steer on that range, passing eastward of Portsmouth and 
Spithead shoals, and when the eastern end of H. Smith’s house is in 
line with the western end of the chapel on Smith island, bearing 337°, 
steer that course keeping the range on until Port Hood lighthouse 
bears 122°, when anchor in 4J fathoms; or if the draft permits and 


PORT HOOD. 


129 


better shelter is desired, steer about 302° for the distance of 400 yards, 
and anchor in about 3J fathoms of water. 

Proceeding from the gut of Canso to Port Hood, after having 
rounded Judique shoal, bring Port Hood light to bear 30°, and keep 
it so until the range of the Roman Catholic church and the trees 
is picked up, or until Henry Island light bears 278°, when the church 
and trees ought to be plainly seen and the range easily picked up, 
then follow directions given above. 

If the weather is so thick that the ranges are not visible, the harbor 
should not be attempted except by those with intimate knowl¬ 
edge of it. 

Caution. —Implicit reliance must not be placed in the buoys, as 
they are frequently out of.position. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Port Hood at 9h. 0m.; springs rise 4£ feet, neaps 2 feet. The flood 
stream sets southward and the ebb stream northward; these streams 
are weak at the anchorage, and their rate anywhere in the harbor 
is usually less than 1 knot. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Port Hood. 

CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 

The northwest coast of Cape Breton island from cape Linzee, 
at 1-| miles northward of Port Hood, trends north-northeastward to 
cape St. Lawrence, a distance of 73 miles, without a harbor or safe 
anchorage for ships. Its general character is high and bold, the 
shoals being few and close inshore. 

The prevailing rocks of this coast are sandstones, shales, and con¬ 
glomerates, with occasional beds of gypsum and thin seams of coal, 
together with a more ancient slate formation in nearly vertical 
strata. These last form the higher hills of the coast and rise in one 
part nearly 1,300 feet above the sea. These rocks are precipitous, 
making the landing of boats on the coast impossible except at the 
mouth of ravines or small streams in fine weather. 

The soil, especially in the valleys and lower grounds, appears to 
be productive and well suited to the rearing of cattle, considerable 
quantities of which are annually exported from Mabou and Margaree 
rivers. 

The settlements continue along the coast as far northward as 
Cheticamp, after which they cease and the mountains approach 
close to the shore, excepting at Grandance, where there is a small 
settlement. 

The fisheries are valuable. Salmon are taken in all the principal 
streams, and the Margaree is so celebrated for its salmon fishery that 


50918—08-9 


130 


CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


it has sometimes been called the Salmon river. Herring, mackerel, 
cod, etc., abound in their seasons, and are frequently taken in large 
quantities. The seal fishery is also attempted occasionally, but is a 
precarious pursuit. 

Caution. —This coast is a dangerous one to be near in autumn or 
early winter, when the prevailing northwesterly winds send in a 
heavy sea, and the set of the current is often in the same direction 
toward the land. The swell frequently precedes the wind by many 
hours, and as there is no good holding ground, sailing vessels must 
not be caught by the swell close inshore. 

Currents.— Even with a smooth sea and in fine summer weather 
there is a set toward this coast, due sometimes to the general south¬ 
easterly current running between Magdalen islands and Prince Ed¬ 
ward island, and at other times to the ebb, or northeast-going, tidal 
stream inclining toward it. These streams, being inconstant and 
irregular both in rate and direction, must be guarded against. In 
summer the rate of the current or tidal streams does not exceed 1 
knot even close inshore, excepting round cape St. Lawrence and cape 
North, where the rate is sometimes 2 to 3 knots, causing a heavy 
breaking sea. The direction of the combined streams for three- 
fourths of the time is eastward; this appears to be due to the south¬ 
easterly current, and the ebb, or northeast-going, tidal stream pre¬ 
dominating over the flood, or southwest-going, tidal stream, and ren¬ 
dering it nearly imperceptible, excepting at or near spring tides. 
Winds, present or at a distance, also influence these streams, as they 
do tKe streams in all parts of the gulf. 

Mabou river, at 4 miles northeastward of cape Linzee, is entered 
by a dredged channel, 130 feet in minimum width and 12 to 15 feet 
in depth, except over the bar, where the least depth at low-water 
springs is 10 feet. On the southwestern side of the channel there 
is a breakwater pier, 835 feet in length, with stonework extending 
about 1,600 feet out from its outer end; the inner end of this stone¬ 
work is 8 feet above and the outer end 5 feet below extreme low 
water The bar is about 200 yards seaward from the outer end of 
the pier. 

From its entrance to the bridge, a distance of 3J miles, this river 
resembles a mountain lake, being in one part f mile wide and carry¬ 
ing 5 to 8 fathoms water. Boats can ascend with the tide to about 2 
miles above the bridge, where the fresh water forms only a small 
stream. The Mabou is joined, at about 2J miles within its entrance, 
by Southwest arm and Becket river, two smaller streams. 

The shores of the Mabou are well settled, principally by Scotch 
highlanders; there are flourishing farms on either side, and on the 
right bank at 3 miles within the entrance a chapel. The scenery is 


MABOU RIVER-SIGHT POINT. 


131 


very beautiful, the hills rising immediately from the northern shore 
to the height of 870 feet. 

On the northern side of the river, at 800 and 1,400 yards, respec¬ 
tively, within the outer end of the breakwater pier, there are two 
wharves where vessels lie to load gypsum. 

Owing to the narrowness of the channel and the rapidity of the 
tidal streams it is dangerous to enter Mabou river, except with a 
flood stream and a smooth sea; local knowledge is desirable. 

Lights. —A mast, 20 feet high, with a white shed at its base, at 
the outer end of the breakwater pier on the southwestern side of the 
dredged channel, exhibits, at 25 feet above high w r ater, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 9 miles. 

A similar mast on the shore at McFayden’s wharf, and distant 
1,000 yards from the outer lightmast, exhibits, at 30 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which should be seen in clear weather a dis¬ 
tance of 7 miles. 

The lights in line lead through the dredged channel up to the 
breakwater. # 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
. the entrance to Mabou river at 9 h. 0 m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 
2 feet. Northeasterly winds often cause high tides; southwesterly 
winds the contrary. 

The tidal streams at the river entrance frequently run at the rate 
of 4 knots. 

Shipping. —In 1902 Mabou was entered by 32 steam vessels of 
1,386 tons and by 28 sailing vessels of 1,636 tons, coastwise; the same 
vessels cleared. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Mabou. 

Coal Mine cove is about 2 miles northeastward of Green point, 
the northeastern entrance point of Mabou river, and in it there is a 
breakwater pier 320 feet long and a wharf 160 feet long, with 18 
feet water at their ends. In fine weather these wharves, from which 
double railway tracks have been built to the mines, can be used for 
shipping coal. 

A wharf is being built at Finlay point, a little farther northward. 

Mabou high land, which is very remarkable, commencing at 
cape Mabou, rises 1,000 feet above the sea and extends 11 miles north¬ 
eastward along the coast, which latter is lofty and precipitous. 

The coast northeastward of these high lands becomes less elevated, 
the beaches and landing places more frequent, and the settlements are 
continuous until past Cheticamp island. 

Sight point, which is about 6J miles north-northeastward of 
Green point, has a small breakwater to shelter a landing place for 
boats. 


132 


CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


Broad cove is 13^ miles nortli-northeastward of Green point. In¬ 
verness village is on the shore of the cove, and the Inverness and 
Richmond railway from Port Hastings ends here. 

A steamer from Pictou calls weekly, and there is a telegraph office. 

Sea Wolf island, 18 miles northeastward of Green point and 2£ 
miles offshore, is 1.1 miles long, northeastward and southwestward, 
600 yards broad, and about 260 feet high. It is of sandstone, pre¬ 
cipitous and bold all around, except at its northeastern end, whence 
shallow water extends off 200 yards. It affords some shelter to small 
fishing vessels and boats, which can land upon it in fine summer 
weather; at other times the sea rolls completely round the island, and 
the anchorage is never safe, the ground being everywhere rocky. 

The depth between this island and the shore is 7 fathoms, over a 
bottom of rock, with loose sand and gravel occasionally. 

The sea in the vicinity of the island abounds with fish. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 40 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on the summit and near the middle of Sea Wolf island, 
exhibits, at 298 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 21 miles. 

Caution. —From a position in dangerous proximity to the island, 
the light may be obscured by the abrupt cliffs of the island. 

Margaree river, 7\ miles northeastward of Sea Wolf island, has 
a very narrow and intricate channel, through which the tidal streams 
run at the rate of 4 knots, and its entrance is obstructed by a bar of 
shifting sand, over which there is, at times, a depth of only 5 feet at 
lowest water. A breakwater has been built on the southwestern side 
of the entrance, and beach protection works constructed on the north¬ 
eastern side. It is only under favorable circumstances of wind and 
weather, and with a smooth sea, that small vessels can safely enter 
the river. The surf on the bar is at times heavy and dangerous to 
boats, especially when the strong tidal stream is running out against 
wind and sea. Boats can ascend about 6 miles from the entrance, at 
which distance the tide ends. 

The shores of the river are well settled, principally by Acadians 
and Scotch highlanders, who, besides farming, prosecute the salmon 
and other fisheries. 

Range lights. —A square pyramidal, white lighthouse, 22 feet 
high, on the western side of the entrance of Margaree river and 56 
yards inshore from the bank, facing the channel entrance, exhibits, 
at 75 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles on, and over a small arc on 
each side of, the range line. 

A similar lighthouse, 33 feet high, at 167°, 72 yards from the pre¬ 
ceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 105 feet above high water, a fixed red 


GRAND ETANG-CHETICAMP ISLAND. 


133 


light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles on, 
and over a small arc on each side of, the range line. 

These lighthouses, or their lights, in line, 167°, lead into Margaree 
harbor at Margaree river entrance, clear of the breakwater on the 
southwestern side of the entrance. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Margaree river at 
8h. 40m.; ordinary springs rise 3| feet, neaps 2 feet. 

Communication. —A steamer from Pictou calls at Margaree 
weekly. 

Shipping. —In 1902, 2 seagoing sailing vessels of 66 tons, 46 
coasting steam vessels of 4,163 tons, and 36 coasting sailing vessels of 
1,239 tons, entered the port. 

Friar head, with a fishing station near it, is 5J miles north-north¬ 
eastward of Margaree river entrance; a breakwater is in course of 
construction to protect a small wharf and the boat anchorage. 

Grand Etang. —Between Margaree river and Cheticamp island, 
which is 10 miles northeastward, there are several places where boats 
can land in fine weather, especially at Grand Etang (Squirrel pond), 
distant 7J miles from the Margaree. 

There are farms all along this coast, which becomes high at a short 
distance inland; mount Squirrel, 1,220 feet high, situated in rear of 
Grand Etang, is the highest part. 

A channel has been opened through the beach which separated the 
waters of the gulf from the deep Grand Etang, and protection works 
have been carried out to make the pond available for sheltering ^rnall 
vessels and fishing boats. A bridge 563 feet long, which has an 
opening for boats, crosses the pond. 

A steamer from Pictou calls at Grand Etang weekly. There is a 
telegraph office. 

Light.— A square, white lighthouse, 23 feet high, with sloping- 
sides, near the outer end of the breakwater on the southern side of the 
channel leading into Grand Etang, exhibits, at 24 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which should be seen from all directions sea¬ 
wards, in clear weather, a distance of 6 miles. 

Cheticamp (Chetican) island, 3J miles long, north-northeast 
and south-southwest, and about 1,600 yards wide, is an island only 
when high tides overflow the low and narrow beach of sand and 
shingle that at other times unites the southern end of the island to 
the mainland. 

The principal fishing station on this coast is on Cheticamp point, 
the southwestern point of the island, where, there are buildings, fish 
stages, and a flagstaff. 

There is no landing on the seaward coast of Cheticamp island, 
where, for its whole length, from Cheticamp point to Enragee point, 


134 


CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


are perpendicular or overhanging cliffs of sandstone, containing coal 
fossils. These cliffs are nearly as high as any part of the island, which 
is 200 feet in height, and they are being constantly undermined by the 
sea. 

Light. —A square, white lighthouse with a red lantern, 36 feet 
high, on Cheticamp point, exhibits at 149 feet above high water a 
revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 45 
seconds, and should be seen from seaward in clear weather a distance 
of 18 miles, except where obscured by the high land of Cheticamp 
island. A dwelling is attached to the lighthouse. 

Anchorage. —Within Cheticamp point, there is indifferent sum¬ 
mer anchorage in 4J fathoms, which receives some shelter from the 
shoal extending \ mile southward from Cheticamp point, but is com¬ 
pletely open to winds from south-southwest to west-northwest, Avhich 
send in a heavy sea. The sand and gravel bottom is so loose and bad 
for holding that the anchorage is quite unsafe after August, and at 
no time is it recommended. Vessels wishing merely to communicate 
with the shore should anchor outside at the distance of 1 or 2 miles, 
where they will have room to weigh if a westerly wind sets in. 

Cheticamp Eastern harbor lies between the island and the 
mainland, and its entrance is between the single spit at cape Gros, the 
northeastern end of the island, and Caveau point, on the mainland. 
Small fishing vessels sometimes anchor within this entrance, but out¬ 
side the bar, which is J mile farther in; unfortunately northerly 
winds send in so heavy a sea that this anchorage is even less secure 
than that at the southwestern end of the island. There is a depth of 
3J fathoms within the harbor, and there was formerly only 2 feet at 
low water over its bar of sand, then in great part dry; but the channel 
over the bar has been dredged for a width of 80 feet to a depth of 
13 feet at low water. There is good anchorage for large vessels in¬ 
side, and numbers of fishing and other vessels run for this harbor for 
shelter in bad weather. 

There are several wharves and a government pier in the harbor. 

Entrance range lights. —A square, white lighthouse, 27 feet high, 
on Caveau point, exhibits at 52 feet above high water a fixed white 
light, which should be seen from seaward in clear weather a distance 
of 8 miles, where not obscured by land. 

A similar lighthouse, at 105° 250 yards from the preceding light, 
exhibits at 97 feet above high water a fixed white light, which should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles on, and over a small arc 
on each side of, the range line. 

These lights in line, bearing 105°, lead into the entrance of Cheti¬ 
camp Eastern harbor, clear of the northeastern end of Cheticamp 
island and between it and Caveau shoals; they should be kept in align- 


CHETICAMP EASTERN HARBOR-PRESQU’lLE. 135 

k 

ment until the range lights on the eastern side of the harbor are in 
line. 

Channel range lights.—A square white tower, with a red lan¬ 
tern, 30 feet high, on the eastern side of Cheticamp Eastern harbor, 
exhibits at 45 feet above high water a fixed red light, which is visible 
on, and over a small arc on either side of, the range line, and should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

A square, white tower, with a red lantern, 38 feet high, at 175°, 
330 yards from the preceding light, exhibits at 62 feet above high 
water a fixed white light, which is visible on, and over a small arc 
on either side of, the range line, and should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 13 miles. 

These lighthouses in line, 175°, lead from the range of the light¬ 
houses on Caveau point, through the dredged channel, which is marked 
by spar buoys on both sides, to the anchorage in Eastern harbor. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Cheticamp Eastern 
harbor at 8h. 15m.; springs rise 3J feet, neaps 2 feet. Northeasterly 
winds cause higher tides and southwesterly winds cause lower tides. 

Settlement. —There is a settlement of Acadians on the mainland 
side of the harbor and there are some houses on the island side. 

A steamer from Pictou calls here weekly, and there is a telegraph 
office. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Cheticamp. 

Supplies. —Fresh provisions in a limited quantity can be obtained 
at the settlement. Water can be taken from the streams on the east¬ 
ern side of the harbor, but on the island it is scarce and not good. 

Caveau shoals, which lie in the approach to Cheticamp Eastern 
harbor, at | mile off Caveau point, and extend from 600 yards to f 
mile north-northeastward of cape Gros, are two rocky patches, with 
9 feet least water. 

Jerome ledge, with only 5 feet water, is about 1,400 yards long, 
north and south, 600 yards wide, and its northern point lies north- 
northeastward 2 miles from cape Gros, 1 mile from the shore. 

There is a depth of 10 fathoms water 600 yards outside this ledge 
and Caveau shoals; therefore little warning is given by the lead, but 
the points on the western side of Cheticamp island, namely, En- 
ragee point and The Capes, in line, bearing 210°, leads northwestward 
of them. 

Presqu’ile, where the mountains approach closely to the shore, is 
2f miles northeastward of Caveau point. 

The coast, between Presqu’ile and Grandance, 111 miles north¬ 
eastward, is bold and mountainous, affording no good landing place, 
nor does it contain any inhabitants. 


186 


CAPE BRETON ISLAND. 


Grandance. —At Grandance there is a small settlement, near 
which is a river or stream silted up by a shingle beach, on which boats 
land, and are hauled up if necessary. It seems to be known locally as 
Pleasant bay, where a steamer from Pictou calls weekly. 

The coast from Grandance to cape St. Lawrence, a distance of 
13 miles, is high and precipitous, the land back of it rising from 700 
to 1,100 feet; landing for boats is possible only with a smooth sea and 
at one or two places, and even there it is indifferent. 

Cape St. Lawrence, the northwestern point of Cape Breton 
island, is of slate rock; it affords landing only on its western side, 
where there is a brook, and a steep stony beach, on which a boat can 
be hauled up with difficulty. 

Bear hill, a remarkable sugarloaf, 750 feet high, is about 1,600 
yards southeastward of cape St. Lawrence, and close to the coast. 

Black rock, always above water, is about 1,600 yards farther east¬ 
ward, and 335 yards offshore. 

Lights.—A square white lighthouse, with a red lantern, 56 feet 
high, and with a dwelling attached, on the northern extreme of cape 
St. Lawrence, exhibits two fixed white lights, at 137 feet and 95 feet 
above high water, which should be seen in clear weather distances of 
17 and 15 miles, respectively. 

The upper light is visible seaward from 59° to 251°, and the lower 
light from 62° to 248°. 

Meat cove—Black point. —The northwestern point of Meat cove 
lies 600 yards east-southeastward of Black rock, and Black point, 
the southeastern point of the cove, is about f mile farther east-south¬ 
eastward. There is a settlement, and good landing for boats in the 
cove. 

Shag rock lies rather more than 200 yards northwestward of the 
inner part of Black point. 

Telegraph and signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal 
station at Meat cove. It is included in Lloyd’s system. 

Information as to weather, wind, movement and condition of the 
ice in the gulf and river St. Lawrence may be obtained after the be¬ 
ginning of April by communicating with the signal station. 

St. Lawrence bay, lying between Black point and cape North, 
which bears 84°, distant 4.7 miles from Black point, is If miles deep, 
with bold shores, and depths of water under 20 fathoms which are 
not too great for anchoring, but the bottom, being of either rock or 
loose sand, is not to be trusted for holding. In summer, when strong 
northerly winds are of rare occurrence, the bay affords, near its head, 
at ^ mile offshore, temporary open anchorage, in 9 to 10 fathoms 


CAPE NORTH. 137 

water; but vessels must weigh immediately on the approach of a wind 
from seaward. 

There are settlements and good landing at Wreck cove, in the 
southwestern part of the bay, and at Deadman pond, in the south¬ 
eastern part, the principal fishing establishment being at Deadman 
pond. 

Cape North, the northeastern extreme of Cape Breton island, is 
a bold, steep headland of slate rock in nearly vertical strata, rising 
abruptly 1,000 feet above the sea. The cape is steep-to, but with some 
rocks above water close off it; and these rocks extend over 200 yards 
off Money point, at 1 mile southeastward of the cape. 

The passage between the cape and St, Paul island is 13 miles wide, 
with very deep water and clear of dangers. Violent squalls are fre¬ 
quent off the headland. 

Position. —Cape North is in latitude 47° 02' 35" N., longitude 
60° 24' 56" W. 

Light. —A square, white lighthouse, rising from a dwelling, and 
with an octagonal red lantern, 26 feet high, at about 1,400 yards 
southward of Money point, exhibits, at 74 feet above high water, a 
revolving light, showing red and white alternately, and attaining its 
greatest brilliancy every 45 seconds. The light should be seen a dis¬ 
tance of 14 miles in clear weather. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at cape North at 8li. 
0m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Currents.—Notwithstanding the bold nature of the northern 
and eastern coasts of Cape Breton island wrecks have occurred upon 
it in the dense fogs which accompany easterly winds. The wrecked 
vessels have generally been steering.a supposed safe course to pass 
northward of St. Paul island into the gulf of St. Lawrence; but the 
current which so frequently runs southeastward out of the gulf was 
not allowed for. 

After long continued easterly or northeasterty winds, which raise 
the level of the water in Bras d’Or lake and neighboring harbors, it 
is not unusual to find a current, with a rate of 1 knot, running for 
several successive days, along the land from off St. Anne to near 
cape North, where it meets the current out of the gulf and is turned 
to the eastward, causing a great rippling. The fishermen affirm 
that it as often runs in the opposite direction, and also, that at times 
there is a regular alternation of the flood and ebb tidal streams. 

Caution. —Owing to the inconstant nature of these currents, great 
caution is required when approaching this coast in fogs. 


CHAPTER IV. 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT, SOUTH AND WEST SHORES— 
NOYA SCOTIA AND NEW BRUNSWICK—CAPE GEORGE TO 
ESCUMINAC POINT AND MIRAMICHI BAY. 

Variation in 1908. 

Cape George 23° 45' W. i Shediac point 22° 30' W. 

Cape Tormentine 22° 48' W. ! Escuminac point 23° 25' W. 

Northumberland Strait. 

Caution. —There are few places in which more care is required 
for navigation than in Northumberland strait, which is 160 miles in 
length, and which, at cape Tormentine, the narrowest part, is but 
7 miles from shore to shore, while the navigable breadth between the 
shoals is miles. The descriptions of the dangers will therefore be 
full and specific. 

Fogs.—Dense fogs, which are so frequent in other parts of the 
gulf, are seldom found in Northumberland strait. The prevailing 
southwesterly wind of summer, which in the bay of Fundy i3 gen¬ 
erally accompanied by thick fog, parts with its moisture in passing 
over the heated land of Nova Scotia, and becomes a hot, dry wind 
off the northern Coast of that province. It gets tempered in its pas¬ 
sage over the strait, gets heated and dried again in some degree in 
passing over Prince Edward island, but acquires once more its moist 
and foggy character long before it reaches the northern shore of the 
gulf and not infrequently before it arrives at Magdalen islands. 

Tides and tidal streams. —The times of high water and the 
tidal rise in the various harbors in Northumberland strait, together 
with the rate of the tidal streams in their entrances, are given in 
this and the following chapters. The rise given for the harbors in the 
strait and also on the northern coast of Prince Edward island is 
always that of the best tide of the 24 hours, and the a. m. spring 
tides are the highest during summer. At or near springs it fre¬ 
quently occurs that the p. m. tides rise only a few inches, and some¬ 
times they entirely disappear, causing single day tides for a short 
time; as at Eichibucto and Shediac. 

138 



TIDES AND TIDAL STREAMS. 


139 


The a. m. spring tides are also the earlier during summer, as for 
instance, at Cascumpeque in July, at full and change, the a. m. high 
water occurred at 4h. 22m., and the p. m. tide at 6h. 58m.; the mean 
of 5h. 40m. is given as the time of high water, full and change, and 
similarly in other cases. At or near neaps the two tides of the same 
day become nearly equal in time and range for a day or two. These 
remarks are of importance to vessels taking the dangerous bars in 
heavy weather. 

As the tides of the strait are peculiar, a general description of the 
course of the tide waves and of the rates and directions of the streams 
which they occasion will not be out of place. 

The tide wave entering the gulf through Cabot strait and causing 
high water between Cape Breton and Magdalen islands, and partly 
passing southward of Anticosti while progressing to the entrance 
of the estuary of the river St. Lawrence, sends off, laterally, waves 
to the southwest. The first of these, the eastern wave, passing 
between the western coast of Cape Breton island and Magdalen 
islands, arrives at the eastern entrance of Northumberland strait at 
about 8h. 15m., and proceeds westward, making high water later in 
succession from east to west as far as Pictou, which it reaches at 10 
hours. At the same nominal hour, but 12 hours later, the other 
or western wave, which has passed northward and westward of Mag¬ 
dalen islands and entered Northumberland strait by its western en¬ 
trance, arrives in the region westward of cape Tormentine, having 
been retarded by the long detour which it has taken and by the great 
extent of comparatively shallow water which it has passed over in its 
subsequent progress to the southwest. This wave makes high water 
later in succession at places along the eastern coast of New Bruns¬ 
wick, after entering the strait, and proceeding southward; this nat¬ 
urally is contrary to the course of the other or eastern wave. 

Thus it is high water, full and change, at Miscou at about 2J hours; 
at Escuminac point and North point of Prince Edward island, form¬ 
ing the western entrance of the strait, at about 4 hours; at West point 
of Prince Edward island at 6J hours; at Shediac at noon. 

The eastern wave, going northwestward, and the western part of 
the preceding tide wave, going southeastward, meet in the region 
westward of cape Tormentine, the vicinity of Shediac being consid¬ 
ered the meeting place by local seamen, and combine to make high 
water at the same hour, namely, about 10 hours, or a little later, in 
the harbors all over the central portion of the strait from Pictou to 
Shediac point. They cause also a tidal rise everywhere between 
Pictou and bay Yerte more than double, and in some of the harbors 
nearly three times, that which occurs at either entrance of the strait. 

The direction of the tidal streams corresponds generally, and in fine 
weather, with the progress of the tide wave, but is disturbed occa- 


140 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT. 


sionally by strong winds. The eastern flood or west-going stream 
enters the strait from the northeastward and runs at the rate of 2J 
knots past East point of Prince Edward island. It runs round cape 
Bear, and turns with an increasing rate northwestward through the 
strait ; it is strongest in the deep water near the land, and runs at its 
greatest rate of 3 knots close past Indian rocks and Rifleman reef. 
Decreasing in rate as it proceeds farther northwestward, it is a very 
weak stream when it meets the other flood stream off Tryon shoals. 

This eastern flood or west-going stream is not so strong along the 
southern shore of the strait, except in Caribou channel for a short 
space near Caribou reef; and it is weak, generally not exceeding J 
knot, in the middle of the strait. 

The western or southeast-going flood stream, coming from the 
northward, runs along the west coast of Prince Edward island, 
sweeping round West point, and is strongest in the deep water near 
West reef, where its rate is 2J knots. Toward the New Brunswick 
coast its rate seldom exceeds 1J knots, which is its average rate as 
it progresses southeastward, until near cape Tormentine, where the 
strongest part of the stream runs near Jourimain shoals, and thence 
southward round and over Tormentine reefs, with a great ripple, at 
the rate of 3 knots. 

After passing these reefs a part of this stream curves round to the 
southweStward with a decreasing rate, and unites with the other flood 
or northwest-going stream in bay Verte, whilst the rest is lost in the 
central part of the strait. 

Both the eastern and western ebb streams pursue courses generally 
contrary to the flood, and at nearly the same rates. 

The interval between the turn of the streams and high water or 
low water on the shore varies with the moon’s declination; the streams 
turning, on an average, at high and low water when the moon is on 
the equator; but the turn may take place as much as 2 hours before 
high water or after low water. 

Thus it will be seen that a fast vessel, under favorable circum¬ 
stances, might enter the strait with the flood, and arrive off Tryon 
shoals soon after high water; there take the ebb, and thus have the 
stream with her, with but slight interruption, from one end of the 
strait to the other. 

Strong winds in the gulf greatly influence the rate and direction of 
the streams in the strait, as well as the tidal range; moreover, as the 
two tide waves which meet in the western part of the strait are 
12 hours different in age, so they are, consequently, owing to 
the diurnal inequality, of unequal heights, each of them being alter¬ 
nately and in turn the highest; and when the moon is near its greatest 
declination, either north or south, there is probably a strong set in 
each direction during the rise and fall of one tide, and a weaker set 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 


141 


during the other tide of the same day, and this is also marked at the 
solstices. But .when the moon is on the equator the tidal streams be- 
come equal. 

General directions. —When bound to ports in the eastern portion 
of Northumberland strait, enter the gulf either by the gut of Canso, 
or by Cabot strait. In the first case, from the northern entrance 
of the gut steer to pass a moderate distance off cape George, whence 
there is no difficulty in running along the land to the westward, if 
attention be paid to the soundings and the bearings of the light¬ 
houses or lights. The lights on Pictou island should be picked up 
long before Cape George light is lost. In thick weather, and if the 
light on the southeastern point of Pictou island is obscured at night, 
beware of the reef off the eastern end of Pictou island, which should 
not then be closed to a depth of less than 10 fathoms, especially if the 
flood or westgoing stream be running. 

Plaving entered the gulf by Cabot strait, when approaching the 
eastern entrance of Northumberland strait between Cape Breton and 
Prince Edward islands, do not close East point of Prince Edward 
island to a depth less than 20 fathoms in thick weather. In clear 
weather the lighthouses on Sea Wolf and Cheticamp islands, East 
point, and cape George will give means of plotting the position. 

Under the same circumstances of entrance and weather, cape Bear 
and its reef should not be closed to a depth less than 15 fathoms, 
or Fishermans bank to less than 13 fathoms, and caution is neces¬ 
sary when in the vicinity of this bank. From cape Bear, if bound 
westward of Pictou, keep over toward Pictou island and the southern 
shore, guided by the soundings till Indian rocks and Rifleman reef 
are passed, after which the lead affords sufficient guidance along 
the coast of Prince Edward island past Tryon shoals and northwest¬ 
ward through the strait. In clear weather the lighthouses on Wood 
island and Prim point will afford means by bearings of passing 
Indian rocks and Fishermans reef. 

On the coast of Nova Scotia, westward of Pictou, the principal 
dangers to be avoided are Middle shoals, between Pictou island and 
Caribou, Amet island and shoals, and Waugh shoal. In thick weather 
the approaches to all these are sufficiently indicated by the soundings, 
and therefore constant use of the lead and reference to the chart will 
enable the intelligent seaman to take his vessel through the strait 
without difficulty. Pilots may be obtained to enter the harbors. 

When bound to Miramichi and the ports in Northumberland strait 
westward of cape Tormentine, after entering the gulf by Cabot strait, 
it is usual to pass southward of Magdalen islands and round North 
point of Prince Edward island. When approaching the reef off 
North point at night or in thick weather keep the lead constantly 


142 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT. 


going, and bear in mind the probability of having been set southward 
in crossing from Magdalen islands, especially with northerly winds. 

In thick weather also, and bound into the strait, after rounding 
North point, steer well to the westward, so as to insure clearing West 
reef, which pass by the lead, running along the bank off the coast of 
New Brunswick. Having passed West reef, use the lead, which 
affords sufficient guidance along either shore until near the narrow 
part of the strait at cape Tormentine. 

Then to proceed farther southeastward, keep on the coast of Prince 
Edward island, the lights and soundings on that side being sufficient 
to guide past Carleton head, cape Traverse, and Tryon shoals, where 
caution is necessary on account of irregularity of the tidal streams 
and the frequent set of the ebb toward the shoals. The tidal 
streams, however, in this narrow' part of the strait, are not very 
strong along the coast of Prince Edward island, off which there is 
good anchorage (for a sailing vessel in the event of the wind failing), 
w hilst on the opposite side there is deep water, and very strong tidal 
streams close to Jourimain and Tormentine reefs. 

If the wind be adverse, or scant from the southward, with the ebb 
or northwest-going stream running, this narrow passage should not be 
attempted in a sailing vessel when the land or lights can not tbe seen. 
Under such circumstances it is usually advisable to anchor westward 
of the passage till a change of weather or stream renders it safe to 
proceed. 

N OVA SCOTIA. 

The coast of the mainland from the northern point of Cape 
George headland trends approximately southwestward 27 miles to 
Merigomish harbor, and is bold and clear of dangers. The land, 
rising to the summit of a ridge 2 to 3 miles in rear of and parallel to 
the coast, is well settled and cultivated, the cultivation extending 
occasionally to the top of the ridge, which attains, in High hill, the 
height of 1,010 feet above the sea. 

There is no harbor on this coast; but for the purpose of affording 
shelter to fishing boats and a landing place for steamers and small 
vessels, a breakwater has been constructed at Livingston cove, about 
2 miles southwestward of cape George; it is 312 feet long and extends 
out into 9 feet at low water springs. There is also a wharf, 251 feet 
long, with a depth of 7 feet at its outer end, at Georgeville, situated 
about 6 miles southwestward of cape George. 

Malignant bay, which has a small stream at its head, affording 
good landing for boats, is about 9 miles southwestward of the north¬ 
ern point of cape George, and will be known by the Sugarloaf hill, 
which reaches the height of 680 feet, 1 mile in rear of the bay. At 
the head of the bay a channel for boats, 30 feet wide and 2 feet deep 


FRENCHMANS BARN-MERIGOMISH HARBOR. 


143 


at low water, has been cut through the gravel beach into a small pond, 
and protection works constructed. 

Frenchmans barn, a remarkable rock, lies nearly 2 miles south- 
westward of Dunn point, the southwestern point of Malignant bay, 
and ^ mile northeastward of Arisaig church. 

Arisaig point extends a short distance westward from the main¬ 
land about f mile westward of Frenchmans barn. A pier, which has 
a depth of 10 feet at low water springs at its outer end, runs off the 
point, and affords shelter to boats and shallops in easterly winds, but 
none in winds between north and west; it has, however, recently been 
lengthened. 

Arisaig village is situated in rear of the point. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 30 feet high, about 40 yards 
in rear of Arisaig point, exhibits at 40 feet above high water a fixed 
red light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 7 miles. 

Rock.—A pinnacle rock, with 7 feet water over it and 25 to 30 feet 
around, lies 259° 400 yards from Arisaig lighthouse. 

Bailey brook, a large stream, flows into Northumberland strait 5 
miles southwestward of Arisaig point; during freshets it brings down 
a large quantity of water to the sea; but in summer it becomes nearly 
dry, and its mouth is obstructed by sand cast up by easterly winds. 
Works have been built for the improvement of the entrance, in order 
to permit boats to enter for shelter. 

Merigomish island, the eastern end of which lies 8 miles south- 
westward of Arisaig point, is 3£ miles long northeast and southwest, 
1J miles broad, and 150 feet high; it is of clay and sandstone, belong¬ 
ing to the coal formation. Thin seams of coal are visible at Coal 
point, the northern point of the island, where the cliffs are 35 feet 
high. The southern coast, where there are settlements, is broken into 
coves, cliffy islets, and peninsula ted points. A sand bar, 2J miles long, 
unites the northeastern end of the island to the mainland, excepting 
at unusually high tides, when the sea washes over one part of the sand 
bar into Merigomish harbor. 

Merigomish harbor, the outer entrance of which is f mile wide 
between King head and Merigomish point, the latter being the south¬ 
western end of Merigomish island, has 14 feet at low water over its 
bar, and sufficient depth within for vessels of heavy draft; but it 
is so intricate and difficult of entrance that it should not be attempted 
by anyone not having local knowledge. And northerly winds send 
so heavy a sea over the bar that a vessel taking the ground then would 
probably be a total loss. The bar is formed by rocky shoals running 
out f mile northward of the entrance points. The channel over the 
bar, and leading in from the bar, between the shoals, is 250 yards 


144 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—SOUTH SHORE. 

wide; but the shoals are so steep that the lead affords little guidance, 
and there are no leading marks. The entrance at first trends south¬ 
ward, and then turns sharply eastward into the harbor close past 
Savage point, which is the sandy spit at the southwestern end of 
Merigomish island. This inner entrance of the harbor, between Sav¬ 
age point and Betty point, the eastern end of Olding island, is about 
1 mile wide, but the navigable breadth is reduced to 100 yards by the 
shoal off Olding island, where the tidal streams frequently run at the 
rate of 5 knots an hour, while within the harbor their rates are gen¬ 
erally less than 1^ knots. 

Before the timber was exhausted this harbor was frequented by 
shipping, which usually lay moored close to the sandy southeastern 
point of Olding island; but it is now seldom visited except by a very 
few coasting vessels. The harbor runs 5 miles to the eastward within 
Merigomish island and the sand bar which joins it to the mainland, 
and also 4 miles to the westward, up a bay full of islands, coves, and 
precipitous headlands, which, together with well-cultivated fields, 
backed by hills about 800 feet high, form scenery of unusual beauty. 

Several small streams enter the harbor, of which French river is 
the principal. This river, which flows into the harbor southward of 
the eastern end of Olding island, is approached by a very narrow 
channel, through flats of mud and weeds, and can be ascended by 
boats to the bridge about 1 mile above its entrance. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Betty point, Merigo¬ 
mish harbor, at 10 h. 6 m.; springs rise 5J feet, neaps 3J feet. There is 
considerable diurnal inequality, which causes a large difference in the 
times and heights of the two tides on the same day. 

Pier.—In a cove eastward of Hardwood point, and about 1 mile 
distant from Merigomish station on the Intercolonial railway, there 
is a pier, 254 feet long, with a depth of water at its outer end of 1 
foot at low water springs and of 6^ feet at high water. 

Merigomish village is 9| miles by rail from New Glasgow. The 
population in 1901 was 693. Small vessels are built. 

Roy island is united near Colquhoun point, its eastern end, to the 
mainland by a long and narrow sand bar, stretching southeastward 
across the eastern end of Little harbor to within J mile of King head, 
which is the western entrance point of Merigomish harbor. 

A reef of sandstone, in great part dry at low water, runs out -J 
mile eastward of Colquhoun point. 

Roy ledge, a small rocky shoal, wth 9 feet least water, lies 700 
yards northward of Roy island and f mile westward of Colquhoun 
point. 

When approaching this part of the coast vessels should not stand 
into less than 6 fathoms. 


LITTLE HARBOR-PICTOU HARBOR. 


145 


Little harbor.—In the shoal bay between Colquhoun and Evans 
points, which are 1.6 and 3.2 miles, respectively, northwestward of 
King head, are two narrow and intricate channels, leading through 
shoals into Little harbor. The eastern and best of these channels 
turns sharply eastward inside of Roy island and close round the 
sandy spit at its southwestern end. The other has only about 1 foot 
water and leads into the western part, of the harbor, which is of con¬ 
siderable extent and broken into bays, coves, and picturesque points; 
but is suitable only for boats, being nearly all dry at low water, ex¬ 
cepting the narrow channels. There were 618 inhabitants at Little 
harbor in 1901. 

Roaring Bull point, If miles northwestward of Evans point, and 
4 miles eastward of Pictou Bar lighthouse, is the cliffy northern end 
(with a remarkable red patch on it) of a small peninsula, united to 
the mainland at its western end by a sandy beach; and having at the 
eastern end the gully or entrance to Chance harbor, dry, or nearly so, 
at low water. 

A reef of sandstone runs out to the depth of 3 fathoms 600 yards 
northeastward from Roaring Bull point. 

Mackenzie head, 2 miles westward of Roaring Bull point, is a 
sharp pointed cliff of clay and sandstone, 40 feet high, with a small 
white house on its edge. 

Mackenzie shoal, the outer edge of which lies 1,700 yards north¬ 
eastward of Mackenzie head, is a rocky bank, 600 yards across, with 
16 feet least water over it, and with 19 feet between it and the shal¬ 
low w r ater to the westward. Vessels should not pass to the southward 
and westward of the shoal. 

Clearing marks.—Caribou and Doctor points in line, about 322°, 
leads 200 yards eastward of the shoal; and the custom-house tower at 
Pictou in line with the northern end of the Bar lighthouse embank¬ 
ment, 248°, or Bar and custom-house lights in line, bearing 249°, 
leads northward of it. These marks are useful only to vessels enter¬ 
ing Pictou harbor, as vessels passing through the strait would not be 
so near the harbor. 

Pictou harbor is the finest on the southern shore of the gulf east¬ 
ward of Gaspe, and it is important from the coal mines, quarries of 
building stone, and the settled country in its vicinity. The entrance 
of the harbor is situated at the head of a bay, which is If miles wide 
at its mouth between Mackenzie head and Logan point, and runs in 
If miles. 

Shallow water extends nearly 1,200 yards northward of Macken¬ 
zie head, and its 3 fathoms edge trends thence westward toward 
Bar lighthouse, the whole bay on that side being shoal, with ridges 


50918—08-10 


146 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


of sand drying out to a considerable distance from the shore at low 
water. 

Buoy.—A black buoy, marked 1, is moored in 14 feet at low water 
near the northern end of the bank eastward of Bar lighthouse, and 
with the lighthouse bearing 236°, distant \ mile. 

Boat harbor.—In the bay between Mackenzie head and Bar 
lighthouse and on the western side of Powell point is Boat harbor, 
the entrance of an extensive inlet or lake, full of mud and weeds, 
and which boats can traverse only when the tide is in. 

Logan point.—On the northern side of the bay, reefs extend off 
Logan point eastward and southeastward 900 yards to the depth of 3 
fathoms. 

Buoy.—A red buoy, marked Macdonald reef, lies in 23 feet water 
at the outer end of the shoal off Logan point, with the point bearing 
285°, distant 930 yards. 

Clearing mark.—Bar lighthouse just open of Cole point, bearing 
226°, leads over the southeastern extreme of the reefs in 14 feet at 
low water, but vessels should not go nearer than the depth of 4 
fathoms. 

Cole point, which is a cliff of clay and sandstone 30 feet high, lies 
1,800 yards south-southwestward of Logan point; a reef stretches out 
southeastward 730 yards from it, and shallow water, known as Mur¬ 
doch shoal, continues southwestward to the commencement of Loudon 
beach, on the northern side of the entrance of the harbor. 

Buoys.—A red buoy, marked 1, lies in 13 feet water, 86° from 
Cole point and 500 yards from the high-water mark. 

A red spar buoy is moored in 12 feet water on the northern side 
of the harbor entrance, at 226°, 1,300 yards from Cole point and 45° 
700 yards from Bar light. During the strength of the ebb this buoy 
almost disappears. 

Pictou road, between Mackenzie head and Logan point and out¬ 
side Pictou bar, although open to northeasterly winds, affords good 
anchorage in 5 fathoms, clay and mud. 

Directions for Pictou road.—The soundings are sufficient guides 
to vessels when running or beating up to this road at night and 
keeping the southern shore aboard with the prevailing southwesterly 
winds; on the opposite side, or with northerly winds, Bar lighthouse 
just open of Cole point, bearing 226°, leads about 1,200 yards south¬ 
eastward of the reef off the eastern end of Pictou island, and also 
clears the southern end of Pictou bank in 5J fathoms; therefore 
vessels must keep the light open of the point, bearing 227°, until 
in the low water depth of 5 fathoms on the edge of the bank off 
Logan point. When beating, tack in the board to the northward 


PICTOU HARBOR. 


147 


when the light reaches the bearing 227°. Be sure that the light 
does not disappear behind Cole point. Run on the 5-fathom curve 
about 1^ miles to the southward and anchor with Bar lighthouse bear¬ 
ing 244°, distant about 2 miles. 

Caution.—It must be remembered that the reef off Logan point 
and Cole point extends out nearly -J mile to 3 fathoms. Therefore 
in following the above directions one must not take the vessel into 
less than 5 fathoms. 

The bearing 227°, given above, just clears the shoal off Logan point, 
and, of course, crosses it off Cole point. It is therefore important 
to remember that a vessel must not be taken into less than 5 fathoms 
on this bearing. It must be remembered also when anchoring that 
Bar light must not be brought to bear to the northward of 229°, 
otherwise the vessel will swing too close to Mackenzie shoal. 

Pictou bar.—The distance across the harbor’s mouth from the 
end of the sandy spit, on the south, where the light is, to Loudon beach, 
on the north, is about 450 yards; but the channel over the bar, about 
800 yards eastward of the end of the spit, is much narrower and has 
a turn in it. With a good tide it is possible to carry .25 feet over the 
bar, and generally to reckon on 23 feet; but it must be remembered 
that, owing to diurnal inequality, one of the two daily tides is better 
than the other. The least water on the bar is 19 feet at low water, and 
inside the bar the depth increases to 5 and 7 fathoms. 

The harbor.—-The beach forming the southern side of the harbor 
entrance extends from 4 mile westward of Powell point, about 1 mile 
in a northwesterly direction, inclosing Moodie cove, an inlet nearly 
dry at low w T ater, except in a central channel. The outer end of 
the beach, on which is Bar lighthouse, is protected by a breastwork 
of timber. Thence the harbor extends west-southwestward 24 miles, 
with a width of 200 to 400 yards between the 3-fathom curves on each 
side. 

Opposite the town, which is on the northern side of the harbor 2 
miles within its entrance, the harbor expands into three large arms 
which are the mouths of East, Middle, and West rivers. 

The channels of the last two are seldom used, except by very small 
craft, unless it be to bring down newly built vessels, when they are 
staked for the purpose. They may be navigated without much diffi¬ 
culty for 2 to 3 miles above their confluence; but higher up they are 
divided into several narrow channels, often obstructed by oyster beds, 
and winding through extensive flats of mud and weeds, which at low 
water render landing difficult. 

East river is navigable by vessels of moderate draft for 24 miles, 
from Pictou to the coal loading place, or railway terminus from the 
Albion mines. Its channel, which joins the harbor directly opposite 


148 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


Pictou, is of the average breadth of 180 yards, and marked out by 
spruce bush stakes driven into the mud flats at intervals on either 
side. Half a mile below the loading place a bar of hard ground, 
with 12 feet at low water, crosses the channel, and therefore vessels 
must not be loaded to draw more than 15 feet at neaps and 18 feet at 
springs. At a short distance above the loading place the channel is so 
divided and obstructed by old oyster beds that it is difficult to carry 
the depth of 3 feet through at low water, and it is rendered almost 
useless by similar obstructions at several places up to the bridge at 
New Glasgow, 6J miles from Pictou. 

Middle river runs in soutli-southwestward 5J miles from Pictou, at 
which distance the tide ends, and the river farther up is rapid and 
fordable at low water. 

The shores of West river are well settled all the way to the limit of 
the tide, 5 miles above Pictou, and the post-road to Truro and Halifax 
passes along the northern shore, where the scenery and views possess 
much beauty. Several hills to the westward of this river are of con¬ 
siderable height; Roger hill, 264°, 5 miles from Pictou, is 546 feet, and 
Dalhousie hill, 3 miles farther southwestward, is 950 feet above the 
sea. West river, although shallow and rapid above the tide water, is a 
considerable stream which winds its way through a beautiful and 
well-cultivated valley containing a large population. A railway 
bridge crosses the river 1 mile above Pictou. 

Lights—Bar.—An octagonal lighthouse, 48 feet high, painted in 
red and white vertical stripes, with a red lantern, at the end of the 
spit forming the southern side of Pictou harbor entrance, exhibits, at 
50 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen 
in clear weather a distance of ^12 miles. 

From the same tower, at 23 feet above high water, is shown a small 
fixed red light, which may be seen in clear weather over the shoals off 
the eastern coast of Pictou island, a distance of 6 miles. This light, 
bearing 277°, clears the east reefs off Pictou island. 

Custom-house.—The highest window in the eastern side of the 
tower of Pictou custom-house exhibits, at 60 feet above high water, a 
fixed red light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
8 miles. 

The masts of vessels in Pictou harbor occasionally obscure this light 
from seaward. 

Bar and this Custom-house light in line, bearing 250°, lead through 
the channel seaward of the bar up to the range of Fraser Farm 
lights. 

A windoAv in the southern side of the custom-house tower exhibits, 
at 60 feet above high water, a fixed white light. 

Fraser Farm—Range lights.—A square, white lighthouse, 30 
feet high, on the north side of Pictou harbor entrance and 200 yards 


PICTOU HARBOR. 


149 


inshore, with Bar lighthouse bearing 120°, distant 150 yards, exhibits, 
at 66 feet above high water, a fixed red light. 

A similar lighthouse, 38 feet high, 278°, 128 yards from the pre¬ 
ceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 78 feet above high water, a fixed red 
light. 

These lights are visible in clear weather through a small arc on 
each side of their alignment, a distance of 8 miles. Fraser Farm 
lights in line leads from the Bar and Custom-house lights range, be¬ 
tween the sand pit off Pictou bar on the south and Murdoch shoal 
on the north. 

Ice.—The harbor is usually frozen over about December 26, and 
clear of ice about April 18, being completely closed between about 
January 9 and April 3. The first vessel arrives about April 20 and 
the last leaves about December 21. A small quantity of field ifce 
occasional^ drifts in after the harbor has opened. 

Pilots.—The pilots of Pictou are generally able and experienced, 
and are always on the lookout for vessels. 

Pilotage is compulsory. 

Directions.—The deep water channel over the bar being only 
400 feet in width, and the tidal streams having a rate that reaches 
2-J knots, a pilot is necessary in a vessel of much draft, and those in 
charge of even small vessels require local knowledge to beat in or out 
with safety. 

Being farther out than Mackenzie shoal, bring and keep the custom¬ 
house tower (a red brick building) and Bar lighthouse, or their lights 
at night, in line, bearing 250° until Fraser Farm lighthouses or lights 
are in line, bearing 278°, when steer for them until Pictou Bar light¬ 
house or light is nearly abeam, whence a 238° course leads to the 
anchorage off Pictou town. 

From Bar lighthouse to the usual anchorage, in 6 to 7 fathoms, mud 
bottom, off the eastern wharves at Pictou, the channel of the harbor 
is* direct, 250 to 450 yards wide, 27 to 47 feet deep, and clear. There 
is anchorage as convenient as the usual one anywhere in the channel 
within Bar lighthouse, and the chart shows all necessary detail for 
reaching it. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Pictou harbor en¬ 
trance, at lOh. 0m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet. The tide is 
characterized by a marked diurnal inequality, occasionally of as much 
as 2 hours in time and 2 feet in height. In August, when observa¬ 
tions were made, the a. m. tides were the highest, following the in¬ 
ferior transit of the moon with north declination in the first part of 
the lunation, and the superior transit with south declination in the 
latter part. 

It is high water, full and change, at New Glasgow bridge at 12h. 
0m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3J feet. 


150 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 

Tide Tables for Pictou are published by the department of marine 
and fisheries of the Dominion of Canada, and by the U. S. Coast 
and Geodetic Survey. 

Pictou town stands on the northern shore of the harbor, 2 miles 
within Bar lighthouse, along the shore of a small bay, and on the 
declivity of a ridge, which rises to the height of 200 feet at" a short 
distance in rear of the town. A spur from this ridge forms Battery 
point, which shelters the place from easterly winds. 

The town is well built, having, besides a station of the Intercolonial 
railway, many good stores, several hotels, branch banks, factories, iron 
foundry and machine shop, lumber yards, marble works, stone quar¬ 
ries, and other industries. It also contains an academy, library, 
Masonic hall, several churches, etc. The water front has been im¬ 
proved by the erection of wharves. The custom-house, a red brick 
building faced with stone, and having a square tower at its southern 
part, is on Town point. The Homan Catholic church, a red brick 
edifice with a spire, situated near the top of a hill to the eastward 
of the town, is the most noticeable of the public buildings. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

The population in 1901 was 3,235. 

The country in the vicinity of Pictou is well settled and fertile. 

Hew Glasgow town is on the eastern side of East river and owes 
its existence to the coal mines, which are about 2 miles higher up, and 
to which boats can ascend with the tide. Vessels of considerable size 
are built at the town, and taken down the river when light. There 
are several factories, tanneries, etc. 

The population in 1901 was 4,447. 

Wharves.—A little more than | mile westward of Bar lighthouse 
and on the same side of the harbor are two coaling wharves, alongside 
which large steamers are loaded with great dispatch, both wharves 
being connected with a branch of the Intercolonial railway. The 
Intercolonial Mining Company’s coal-loading pier is near Abercrom¬ 
bie point. 

Ferry.—From the railroad wharf at the place known as “ Pictou 
landing” a steam ferryboat plies at alternate hours to and from 
Pictou. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Pictou. 

Hepairs.—Two marine railways, 232 and 178 feet in length on 
the blocks, have lifting powers of 1,200 tons and 800 tons, respectively. 
Large repairs to hull or machinery can be executed. Divers may be 
hired. 

Heavy castings are made by the Nova Scotia Steel and Forge 
Company, Limited. 


PICTOU. 


151 


Supplies.—Meat, bread, and vegetables are purchasable. Water 
may be obtained from a steam water boat. The best watering places 
are on the southern shore of the harbor, f mile within its mouth, and 
opposite the coal loading place in East river. ' 

Coal.—There is an unlimited supply of native coal at Pictou. Ves¬ 
sels coal from lighters or at the end of the wharves. There are 
depths of 33 and 24 feet at the outer ends of the wharves, which are 
TOO, 1,000, and 2,000 feet in length. Vessels go alongside the eastern 
wharves head upstream, and secure to spar buoys one on each bow, 
and another on the starboard quarter. 

Labor is plentiful, and 1,000 tons of coal can be put on board a 
vessel in an ordinary day’s w T ork, or 1.800 tons in 24 hours working 
day and night. 

Vessels unable to cross the bar can be coaled outside by lighters. 

The trade in coal has greatly developed; the harbor is generally 
croAvded with shipping for coal, and there are several coaling sta¬ 
tions in each of the three rivers. 

Communication.—There are stations of branches of the Inter¬ 
colonial railway at Pictou and New Glasgow, which are thus con¬ 
nected Avith Halifax and Quebec. Steamers of the Quebec Steam¬ 
ship Company leave Pictou fortnightly for Quebec and Montreal, 
calling at CharlottetoAvn, Summerside. Perce, Gaspe, and Father 
point. Steamers leave Pictou on Mondays and Thursdays for Mag¬ 
dalen islands, calling at Souris; the Thursday steamer calling also at 
Georgetown. 

A steamer leaves Pictou every Monday night for Cheticamp, call¬ 
ing at Port Hood, Inverness (Broad cove), Margaree, Grand Etang, 
and Pleasant bay, Cape Breton island. 

Pictou is in telegraphic communication with all parts of the United 
States and Canada, and therefore with the world. 

Quarantine and hospital.—Pictou is a minor quarantine station 
and maintains a marine hospital. 

The shore of the gulf from Logan point trends about north west- 
Avard 1J miles to WidoAV point, which is of sand and shingle, and 
forms the southern entrance point of Caribou harbor. 

Doctor island lies northward of Widow point and, including 
Doctor spit, extends 4 mile northAvard and 1J miles northwestward. 

Doctor reef, which dries at low water, extends northeastward 4 
mile from Doctor point, the eastern point of Doctor island, and shoal 
water to the depth of 3 fathoms extends f mile farther eastward. 

Seal rocks.—Southward of this reef, and about 1,200 yards east- 
southeastward of Doctor point, lie Seal rocks, which dry at low 
tide, and from Avhich shallow water, forming the bar of Caribou har¬ 
bor, extends to Logan point. 


152 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


Skinner reef is a small, rocky patch, dry at low water, situated 
about 400 yards northward from the eastern end of Doctor reef. 

Buoy.—A red buoy, marked “ Skinner reef,” is moored in 4 
fathoms, 53°, 800 yards from Skinner reef. 

Gull and Caribou islands extend northward f mile from the end 
of Gull spit, which is situated 900 yards northwestward of Doctor 
island; thence 4 miles west to the end of Caribou island. The northern 
coasts of Gull and of Caribou islands appear from a distance like sev¬ 
eral islands, but on a nearer approach the wooded parts are seen to 
be joined together by sand bars. There is a causeway between the 
western end of Caribou island and the mainland. 

The coast of the mainland forming the southern shore of Caribou 
harbor from Widow point trends west-northwestward for 1J miles, 
then west-southwestward If miles to Millbrook, thence northwestward 
3 miles to Caribou West gully. It is broken into numerous points and 
cliffs from 30 to 100 feet high. 

The southern shore of the gulf from Widow point to Caribou 
West gully is formed by the northern coasts of Doctor, Gull, and 
Caribou islands, which have been described above. 

Caribou harbor, between Caribou and Doctor islands and the 
mainland, is nearly 0 miles long from the southern entrance, between 
Widow point and Doctor spit, to West gully, and in some parts is 1 
mile wide. The whole of this large space is occupied by shallow 
water, except the narrow channel of the harbor, which is deep enough 
for vessels of far greater draft than can pass the bar, but does not run 
through, being lost in mud flats 3J miles from the southern entrance. 

The north entrance to Caribou harbor is situated between the two 
sandy spits forming the end of Gull and Doctor islands, but it has a 
depth of only 4 feet at low water. 

West gully is dry at low water; about 1 mile within it Caribou 
river enters the harbor, and is navigable for boats for 2 to 3 miles. 

There are settlements and farms along the southern shore of the 
harbor and upon the inner side of the islands; a road runs from the 
southern shore of the harbor to Pictou. 

The population of East and West Caribou in 1901 numbered 1,295. 

The south and vessel entrance to the harbor, between Doctor spit 
and Widow point, is only 120 yards wide, and the navigable breadth 
is reduced, by shallow water off Widow point, to 80 yards. The depth 
here is 4J fathoms; but an abrupt turn, and a tidal stream running 4 
knots, render so narrow a channel extremely difficult. Outside the 
entrance the channel between the shoals becomes wider, and the depth 
diminishes gradually to the bar, which is 1 mile seaward, and over 
which only 9 feet can be carried at low water. The bar and entrance 
are too difficult and dangerous to be attempted without some special 
object, and without a pilot. 


CARIBOU HARBOR. 


153 


Oaktree point, a steep clay bank, with a house and barn upon it, 
is the point of the mainland, J mile within the entrance. 

Directions.—The northern entrance is now the principal one, but 
no directions can be given for it. A local pilot is absolutely necessary. 

To enter Caribou harbor by the southern entrance, being off the bar 
and in not less than 5 fathoms water, bring the high water extremes 
of Widow and Oaktree points in line, bearing 271°, and keep this 
mark on until over the bar through the low water depth of 9 feet. 
When Caribou and Doctor points come in line, bearing 324°, sheer 
immediately northward, and bring Oaktree point and Doctor spit in 
line, bearing 264°; keep this mark on until 60 yards from the end of 
the spit, when sheer southwestward so as to round the spit at the 
same distance off into the harbor. The channel for the first 4 mile 
in from the entrance is not more than 180 yards wide, the tide is 
stronger there, and the bottom not quite so good as farther in, where 
the channel widens to 260 yards, with a depth of 4 to 7 fathoms, mud 
bottom. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Caribou harbor at 
lOh. 0m.; the diurnal inequality causing at times a difference of 
nearly 2 hours in the two tides of the same da}^, and also 2 feet in 
the height of the water. The rise of the highest of the tw^o ordinary 
spring tides of the same day is 6 feet, and of neap tides 4 fe.et; there 
are therefore 15 feet over the south entrance bar at high water or¬ 
dinary springs. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse 26 feet high, on Caribou point, 
the northeastern point of Gull island, exhibits, at 35 feet above high 
water, a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy 
every minute, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 
miles. 

Caribou reef, of large stones, which dry for 600 yards northward 
of Caribou point, is very dangerous, the deep water approaching close 
to its northern point and eastern side. There is a depth of 3 fathoms 
4 mile from Caribou point, and 5* fathoms f mile. 

Shallow water extends \ mile off the northern coast of Gull and 
Caribou islands, and it should not be approached to a depth of less 
than 5 fathoms. 

Pictou island, 4J miles long east-northeast and west-southwest 
and 1J miles wide, is of clay and sandstone, rising in its central parts 
150 feet above the sea. It is wooded on the northern side, and there 
are settlements and farms along its southern coast. Its outline is 
formed by low cliffs, with the exception of several small bays, and 
Roger point, on the southern coast, which is of sand and affords the 
best landing for boats. 

In 1901 the population of the island was 159. 


154 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—SOUTH SHORE. 


West point may be passed in 3 fathoms water at the distance of 4 
mile, but there are rocks, nearly dry at low water, just within the 
3-fathom line and extending 600 yards offshore both northward and 
southward of the western end of the island. Shallow water runs 
out occasionally 600 yards off the northern coast of the island, which 
at night should not be approached nearer than the depth of 8 fathoms. 
The southern coast may be approached to 5 fathoms, but from East 
point a reef, a great part of which dries at low water, runs out 4 mile 
to the depth of 3 fathoms and nearly 1 mile to 5 fathoms. Not far 
off this reef, both northward and eastward, there are 9 fathoms; it 
should therefore be approached with caution at all times, but espe¬ 
cially at night, and with a flood or west-going stream. 

Clearing mark.—Cole point and Pictou Bar lighthouse in line, 
226°, leads southeastward of the shoal water off the eastern end of 
Pictou island. 

Lights.—A square white lighthouse, 32 feet high, on the southeast¬ 
ern point of Pictou island, exhibits, at 52 feet above high w T ater, a 
flashing white light, which gives 1 bright flash of 1 second’s duration 
every 5 seconds, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 
miles. 

An octagonal white lighthouse with a red lantern, 49 feet high, on 
West point of Pictou island, exhibits, at 61 feet above high water, a 
group revolving white light, showing 3 flashes with intervals of 15 
seconds between their points of greatest brilliancy followed by an 
interval of 30 seconds, the system completing a revolution every 
minute. The light should be seen in all directions seaward, except 
where obscured by the island to the eastward, from a distance of 13 
miles in clear weather. 

Note.— A white revolving light attaining its greatest brilliancy 
eveiy 20 seconds and visible 13 miles is temporarily exhibited from 
West Point lighthouse until the permanent light is established. 

A square white lighthouse. 26 feet high, standing on top of the 
bank near the western government jvharf on the southern side of the 
island exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 
from all points of approach by water and which should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

■ Lifeboat.—A self righting and self bailing lifeboat, 25 feet over 
all, is stationed about | mile northeastward of the lighthouse on the 
southeastern point of the island. 

Wharves.—There are two wharves on the southern side of the 
island; one near the western end, and one known as East wharf, 
near the middle. The West wharf is 324 feet long, with a depth of 
4j feet lowest water at its outer end; the East wharf is 328 feet long, 
with a depth of 4J feet lowest water at its outer end. 


PICTOU BANK-CARIBOU CHANNEL. 


155 


Pictou bank, extending westward and southward, 3J miles from 
the western end of Pictou island, is of irregular outline, and of sand¬ 
stone thinly covered with sand, gravel, mud, and broken shells. The 
depths are irregular, being from 2f to 6 fathoms, except on Middle 
shoals. 

Middle shoals are a chain of rocky patches, with 10 feet least 
water, stretching southwest and northeast, and for 1J miles across the 
northern part of the bank, so as to approach within 4 mile of Cari¬ 
bou channel on the one hand, and within 1J miles of West point of 
Pictou island on the other. There is but little doubt that 3J fathoms 
at low water can be carried through between these shoals and Pictou 
island, although the irregular soundings forbid absolute certainty. 

Buoy.—A red buoy is moored near the 11-foot patch of Middle 
shoals, approximately in latitude 45° 48' N., and longitude 62° 38' W. 

Clearing mark.—Roger point and West point in line, bearing 
89°, leads close northward of Middle shoals in 4 fathoms, but large 
vessels should not approach them on that side nearer than 7 fathoms. 
And those navigating small vessels must remember that shallow water 
runs off 4 mile from West point toward Middle shoals. 

Caribou channel, between Caribou reef and Pictou bank, is 1 mile 
wide between depths of 3 fathoms, or TOO yards wide between depths 
of 5 fathoms, at its narrowest part, and is from about 64 to 13 fathoms 
deep; but its navigation is not easy, because it bends so that no mark 
leads through it. 

Directions.—From the eastward, approach with Pictou Bar light¬ 
house open southeastward of Cole point, or with the lighthouse in line 
with the point 226°, which mark leads southeastward of Pictou bank 
in 5 fathoms, until Caribou Point lighthouse bears 289°; Hawksbill 
point is then well shut in by Caribou point. Keep the lighthouse 
on this bearing, and steer through the channel in not less than 5 
fathoms until Mackenzie head is just shut in behind Logan point, 
bearing'163°, then keep this range on astern, steering across the deep 
water and along the western edge of Pictou bank to sea. 

With a strong southwesterly wind and an ebb stream, keep on the 
weather side of the channel, in which case steer with Caribou Point 
lighthouse 289°, until Logan point is only a little open eastward of 
Doctor point, bearing 157°. These points in line lead along the 
eastern side of Caribou reef at the distance of 200 yards and in 4 
fathoms water. Keep Logan point a little open and it will lead clear 
out to sea in not less than 44 fathoms. 

For a ship of heavy draft, Caribou Point lighthouse bearing 289° 
leads rather close to the edge of the southern part of Pictou bank 
and the northeastern edge of the shoal off Doctor point; the chart 
and soundings in this case must be the guide. 


156 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—SOUTH SHORE. 


Caution.—Allow for a strong set over Pictou bank according to 
the tidal stream. 

The coast of the mainland from Caribou West gully trends 
westward 15 miles to cape John, and is nearly straight, unbroken, 
and quite free from danger, the shoal water nowhere extending 
beyond 800 yards off it. Cliffs of clay and sandstone, reaching in 
some places a height of 50 feet, but usually much lower, predominate, 
and in fine weather there is good landing for boats almost everywhere. 

Cape John has sharp pointed cliffs of sandstone, 40 to 50 feet high, 
and has extending, 800 yards west-northwestward of it, a reef, on the 
inner part of which are two rocks always above water. This reef is 
very steep, especially at its western point, where there are 6 fathoms 
at low water close to it; this being a greater depth than occurs else¬ 
where in the vicinity. Off the northern side of the cape shallow 
water extends \ mile, and as there are only 15 feet close within the 
3-fathom curve, vessels should not approach nearer than the low-water 
depth of 4 fathoms. 

Amet sound is very extensive, affording excellent anchorage for 
vessels of any size and in any reasonable numbers. Cape John and 
Mullegash point, its eastern and western entrance points, are 4| 
miles apart, but its entrance is divided by Amet and Waugh shoals 
into three passages, all of which, however, are wide and deep enough 
for vessels of large draft. The sound contains John bay, Brule har¬ 
bor, Barachois harbor, and Tatamagouche bay. 

The shoals and places mentioned will be described and then direc¬ 
tions for each passage given. 

Amet isle is 460 yards long, about east and west, with a breadth 
of 80 yards in the widest part, and is divided into two parts, of 
wdiich the western is the larger; both parts presenting clay cliffs 
on every side, except where they are joined together by a sandy neck. 
It is about 20 feet above high water, flat on top, bare of trees, and 
covered with a coarse grass. 

This islet was formerly much larger than at present, and the cliffs 
still continue to be undermined by gales, high tides, and frosts, so 
that before long there will remain only, a reef of the highly inclined 
sandstone, which at present forms the base of the islet, and dries out 
to the distance of about 400 yards, except on the southern side, where 
boats can generally land at all times of tide. Shallow water extends 
600 yards westward of the islet. 

Light.—A lantern on the roof of a square white dwelling house, 26 
feet high, on the middle of the western part of Amet isle, exhibits, at 
44 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 


AMET SHOALS—WAUGH SHOAL. 


157 


Amet shoals are rocky, with very irregular soundings, and 
are rendered very dangerous by the fact that they extend nearly 4 
miles eastward from the islet, and also 2 miles southeastward. In 
both directions, at a mile from the islet, there are rocky patches, with 
5 to 6 feet water; at a greater distance than 2 miles the depth is not 
less than 16 feet, except that East patch with that depth lies 73° 3 
miles from the lighthouse. 

Caution. —The northern side of Amet shoals is very steep, and 
should not be approached in a large ship, especially at night, to a 
depth of less than 10 fathoms. 

Clearing marks.—Conn house in line with cape John, bearing 
205°, leads about 1 mile to the southeastward of East patch in 4 
fathoms water; but to clear the eastern end of the patch in a greater 
depth, keep cape John westward of 214°. This bearing will lead 
across the 4f-fathom patch northward of the eastern extreme of 
cape John. To clear this patch and pass in deep water between 
it and the 4-fathom patch just to the eastward, keep the western 
extreme of cape John in line with Brule point bearing 218°. 

The northern end of the land about Treen bluff, open southward of 
Saddle island, bearing 264°, leads along the southern side of Amet 
shoals in 3J fathoms. 

The English church at river John in line with Reef point, 130°, 
leads westward of the shoals in 3J fathoms, or Conn house in line with 
Brule point, 171°, leads J mile westward of them. 

Caution. —The extent of Amet shoals should be remembered when 
one is in their vicinity, and careful bearings and soundings frequently 
taken. 

Waugh shoal is a rocky bank, 1.2 miles long north and south and 
\ mile broad, with irregular soundings of 3J to 5 fathoms, except 
toward its northern end, where there is a patch of considerable extent 
with 2 to 2f fathoms, 12 feet being the least depth, except perhaps 
in unusually low tides. This shallowest part of the shoal is very 
steep, and should not be approached from the northward nearer than 
the depth of 7 fathoms; but all other parts may be approached to 5 
fathoms at low water. 

Clearing marks. —For the western side of this shoal there are no 
clearing marks, the lead and the bearing of the eastern end of Saddle 
island being the only guides. The eastern end of Saddle island must 
not be brought to bear to the westward of 194°. The eastern ex¬ 
tremes of Amet isle and Cape John peninsula in line 121° or the 
English church steeple at river John in line with Reef point, bearing 
130°, leads close northeastward of the shoal in 5 fathoms. Mullegash 
and Chamber points in line, bearing 197°, leads southeastward of 


158 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—SOUTH SHORE. 


the shoal in 4 fathoms, but Chamber point, being very low, is at times 
difficult to distinguish from the high land behind it. 

John bay runs in 4 miles southeastward from cape John to 
Murphy point, which is the sandy eastern point of John river en¬ 
trance. The bay is clear of detached dangers, but the shoal water 
extending from its shores is often very steep, and should be ap¬ 
proached very cautiously and not nearer than a low-water depth of 
34 fathoms. Sandy shoals occupy the head of the bay, drying out 
nearly 1 mile, and extending nearly J mile from the entrance of the 
river to the 3-fathom curve. 

River John has only 1 foot at low water over its bar of sand, and 
irregular depths of 3 to 11 feet, in a very narrow channel up to the 
bridge, a distance of nearly 1 mile. At Rogers point, 1.3 miles 
higher up, the river is fordable at low water, and there are deep holes 
and fords for 5 miles farther to where the tide ends. Vessels are 
built on the river, and notwithstanding the shallow bar, are taken 
out light and moored in the bay to load cargoes of lumber which are 
brought down the river. The vessels lie off the entrance in 2J to 3^ 
fathoms water, mud bottom; and, although the bay is completely 
open to the northwestward, are considered safe in summer. 

The village is situated on either side of the river, near the bridge, 
and about J mile from the station on the Oxford and Pictou branch 
of the Intercolonial railway. The English church, with a spire, is 
about 1 mile eastward of the bridge; and the chapel, with a cupola, 
is on the opposite or western bank at 4 mile from the bridge toward 
the river’s mouth. On the southern side of the river immediately 
below the bridge there is a wharf, with a depth of 9 feet at low 
water along its channel face. 

In 1902, T sailing coasting vessels of 168 tons entered the -river. 

Brule peninsula. —Briile point, the eastern point of the peninsula, 
bears 225°, distant 3 miles from cape John; and the northern coast 
of the peninsula, of clay cliffs 10 feet high, extends nearly straight, 
about west, 1J miles to Peninsula point, from which a reef drying at 
low water extends 600 yards to the northwest. The peninsula, which 
is wooded and rather low, is united to the mainland at its south¬ 
western end by a low and marshy isthmus, and appears from the 
offing like a low island in the middle of Amet sound. 

Brule shoals, extending 1.4 miles northward from Brule point, 
are rocky with irregular soundings, and there is a depth of 9 feet 
water not far within the outer edge. The northern and northwestern 
sides of these shoals should be approached cautiously, for there is a 
depth of 4 to 5 fathoms close to the edge, and no good clearing mark; 
the eastern and southeastern sides may be approached by the lead to 
3J fathoms. 


BRULE HARBOR—TATAMAGOUCHE BAY. 


159 


Clearing mark. —The English Church steeple at river John, just 
open northward of Long point, bearing 110°, leads along the north¬ 
eastern side of the shoals in 3 fathoms. 

Brule harbor runs 2£ miles southwestward within Brule penin¬ 
sula and is nearly 1 mile wide, but the far greater part of it is 
occupied by flats of mud and weeds. There are 14 feet on the bar at 
low water and 19 feet for a short distance within, but the channel 
soon becomes very narrow and divided into several branches. 

Conn house stands a short distance inland on the southern shore 
of the harbor at 171°, 1.3 miles from Brule point and about 50 feet 
above the sea; it is a white two-story house, with a large barn close 
eastward of it ; It appears not to be conspicuous. 

Anchorage. —The anchorage outside the bar of Briile harbor, in 
3J fathoms, mud bottom, is the most sheltered in the sound. In the 
best berth Brule point bears 301° and Conn house 206°, with cape 
John in range 26°. 

Beef. —A reef, a great part of which is dry at low water, extends 
800 yards northwestward from Peninsula point, and it is so bold 
that there is little warning by the lead. 

Barachois harbor. —Chamber point bears 242°, 2 miles from Pen¬ 
insula point and the entrance of Barachois harbor lies between them. 
This harbor runs miles southwestward within Chamber point 
and then contracts to a very narrow channel, turning southeastward 
into a shallow lake 1 mile long, with steep banks, and at its head 
an island. There is a depth of 12 feet over the bar in the narrow 
channel leading into the harbor. The Barachois is seldom visited by 
shipping. 

Tatamagouche bay, the entrance to which is between Peninsula 
point and Mullegash point, bearing 335°, 2£ miles from the former, 
runs in 7 miles westward, affording everywhere good anchorage over 
soft mud bottom, but with insufficient depth of water for large ships 
far up the bay. From 5 fathoms at its entrance the depth decreases 
to 3 fathoms 1J miles up the bay and to 2 fathoms at 4 miles, the rest 
of the bay, with the exception of boat channels leading to the Basin 
and to Millbrook, being all shallow and in part dry at low water. 
The only detached shoal in the bay is a rock with 7 feet least water, 
lying 700 yards off the northern shore and 2 miles in from Mulle¬ 
gash point; the northern end of Amet isle and Mullegash point in 
line bearing 48° leads 200 yards southeastward of it. In the outer part 
of the bay the shore may be approached to the low-water depth of 3 
fathoms and farther in to 2J fathoms. In entering keep well over 
to the westward to avoid Brule shoals, but remember that shoal 
water to the depth of 3 fathoms extends nearly J mile to the east¬ 
ward and southeastward from Mullegash point. 


160 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


Anchorage. —Regard being had to the draft of the vessel, the 
anchorage is good all over Tatamagouche bay, but that toward the 
Mullegash shore is the best sheltered from northeasterly winds. A 
good position is in 4 fathoms, mud bottom and good holding ground, 
with Amet island 32°, Mullegash point 313°, and cape John 65°. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Tatamagouche bay at 
lOh. 0m.; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. 

Tatamagouche river, in the southwestern corner of Tatama¬ 
gouche bay, and 5 miles from its entrance, is approached through the 
flats by a ver^narrow channel which is obstructed by oyster beds, and 
only 1 foot deep at low water ordinary springs; nevertheless, new 
vessels of considerable size are brought down it occasionally. The 
principal settlement in the bay, containing Campbell’s shipbuilding 
establishment and a chapel, stands on the western bank of the river. 
There is a bridge at 2 miles from the entrance of the river. 

Vessels anchor off this river in 11 feet at low water, and as the tide 
falls ground on the soft mud without injury. 

This river and the mill brook in the northwestern corner of the bay 
contain excellent trout and they also contain alewives during the 
season for them. 

In 1901 Tatamagouche had 341 inhabitants. The port was entered 
in 1902 by 3 sailing coasting vessels of 185 tons. 

Mullegash point, which is the northern point of Tatamagouche 
bay, has shallow water extending nearly 1,200 yards off the point to 
the eastward and also northward and nearly 1 mile northwestward to 
Saddle island. 

Saddle island, the eastern end of which lies 1,800 yards north- 
northwestward of Mullegash point, is low and wooded. It is f mile 
long, east and west, and throughout most of its length is joined to 
the shore, from which it is distant in one part only about 250 yards, 
by shoals that dry at low water. 

Saddle reef runs out from the eastern point of Saddle island 1 
mile to the depth of 3 fathoms, and has on it the Washball, a round- 
backed rock, dry at low water, and distant 600 yards from the island; 
but there are only a few feet of water much farther out than the 
rock. To vessels approaching this reef from the northward, the 
soundings give little warning, but Treen bluff just open northward 
of Saddle island, and bearing 256°. just clears it in 4 fathoms. The 
lead affords the only guide for clearing it to the eastward, where, 
with care, it may be safely approached to the depth of 6 fathoms. 

Directions for Amet Sound. —As the marks for Waugh shoal are 
difficult to make out, and the other clearing marks are very distant, 
it is advisable for those without local knowledge to take a pilot into 
Amet sound. 


AMET SOUND-DIRECTIONS. 


161 


Eastern passage into the sound, between cape John and Amet 
shoals, is a little more than f mile wide between the 3-fathom curves 
on either side, with irregular soundings of 34 to 6 fathoms, and with 
rock, red sand, broken shells, and mud bottom. It is difficult to carry 
more than 4 fathoms through at low water. 

From the eastward, approach with cape John bearing westward of 
214°, and bring that cape and Brule point in line, bearing 219°, and 
keep the range on until Treen bluff opens southward of Saddle island, 
264°, when alter course to 244°, passing in 4 to 4^ fathoms nearly 
through the middle of the passage. The range of Treen bluff just 
open southward of Saddle island leads southward of Amet shoals in 
about 19 feet at low water. Do not approach the shallow water off 
cape John nearer than the depth of 4 fathoms. When through the 
passage bearings of the points of land will tell the navigator when to 
change course for any of the different anchorages. Keep the lead 
going and keep the position of the ship plotted. 

Middle passage into Amet sound, between Waugh shoal and 
Amet isle, is 1 mile wide between the 5-fathom curves on either side, 
clear of danger, and carries 6 to 10 fathoms water, with sand and 
mud bottom. Conn house and Brule point in line, bearing 171°, leads 
through this passage. 

See preceding paragraph. 

Western passage, between Saddle reef and Waugh shoal, is f 
mile wide, with irregular ^soundings of 5 to 8-| fathoms, the lesser 
depth being southward of Waugh shoal, where the bottom is rocky 
and uneven, while further westward it is mud. 

In taking this passage, if bound to Tatamogouche bay, avoid the 
eastern end of Saddle reef when hauling round it to the southward, 
by not approaching it to less than 6 fathoms water until Treen bluff 
opens southward of Saddle island, after which round Mullegash point 
in any convenient depth, and anchor as directed for the bay. 

For the anchorage off the bar of river John, run up the middle of 
John bay till the w T ater shoals to 3J fathoms, when anchor at 1J miles 
distant from the river’s mouth. Vessels of considerable size some¬ 
times moor in 2J fathoms \ mile farther in. 

For Brule harbor, after rounding Saddle reef, steer for Bride 
point, or a little eastward of it, until the English church steeple in 
river John is a little open northward of Long point, bearing 110°; 
keep that range on till Brule point bears 217°, when steer about 180°, 
and run by the lead along the southeastern side of Brule shoals, in 
3 J to 3| fathoms, until the anchorage outside the bar is reached. A 
pilot, or previously buoying the channel, is necessary to proceed into' 
the harbor. 


50918—08 - 11 


162 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—SOUTH SHORE. 

In beating through Western passage, the western end of Saddle 
island may be approached to the depth of 5 fathoms, but its eastern 
end should not be approached nearer than a depth of T fathoms. In 
the board toward Saddle reef, tack with Treen bluff open northward 
of Saddle island; and in the board northward toward Waugh shoal, 
tack when the depth of 5 fathoms is reached. When standing toward 
Amet isle, attend to the leading marks for clearing the shallow water 
off it. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, in 
Amet sound, at 10 h. 0 m.; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. The tidal 
streams are very weak within the sound, setting regularly up the bays 
and rivers. In Eastern passage the ebb sets northeastward and the 
flood in the opposite direction, at rates varying from J to 1J knots. 
In Middle passage the ebb sets northward and eastward at a rate of 
less than 1 knot, and the flood westward at the same rate, toward 
and over Waugh shoal. In Western passage both streams generally 
set fairly through, the flood westward and the ebb eastward, at rates 
never exceeding 1J knots, and usually much less. 

Treen bluff is a cliffy point, 1.6 miles westward of Saddle island, 
and from it Treen reef, which is of sandstone, stretches out ^ mile to 
the depth of 3 fathoms. 

Clearing mark. —The eastern point of Cape John peninsula open 
northward of Saddle island, 96°, leads northward of Treen reef in 
4 fathoms. * 

The coast of the mainland from Treen bluff trends west-south- 
westward 2.4 miles to Gravois point, which is the highest part of the 
clay and sandstone cliffs in this vicinity. From Gravois point Cant¬ 
well point bears about 292°, distant nearly 2 miles, and the coast 
between the two forms a bight. From Cantwell point the coast 
trends about northwest for f mile to Horton spit, near which is the 
southern side of the channel into Wallace harbor. 

Wallace harbor, at the mouth of Wallace river, has 16 feet over 
its bar at low water ordinary springs, which rise 8 feet, so that it is 
capable of admitting vessels of heavy draft, and it is sheltered from 
all winds. Its entrance, southwestward, 2J miles from the eastern 
point of Oak island, and between two sandy spits, named Palmer and 
Caulfield points, is nearly 400 yards wide, and carries 3J to 6J 
fathoms water; but the approach to this entrance, over the bar and 
through the bay for a distance of 3 miles, is by a crooked channel, 
which, although nowhere less than 300 yards wide, is difficult. 

On either side within the harbor, flats of stiff red clay extend to 
the shore and dry at low water, when landing is difficult. At 1,200 
yards within the entrance, a middle ground commences and dimin¬ 
ishes the breadth of the channel to 100 yards. Nearly abreast the 
eastern end of the middle ground, there is a narrow channel through 


WALLACE HARBOR. 163 

the flats and up Lazy bay, which runs in over a mile southeastward 
and has, on the shore near its head, cliffs of gypsum 30 feet high. 

Wallace, a prettily situated straggling village with its kirk, stands 
on the southern side of the harbor, about 1J miles within its entrance. 
Back of the village the land on the southern shore rises gradually to 
the summit of a ridge extending eastward, and attaining the height 
of 400 feet. Opposite Wallace the harbor or river is | mile broad, 
while the channel between the flats is only 60 yards wide, with 5 
fathoms water. 

At 2 miles higher up, the river divides into two branches, both of 
which are narrow and obstructed by oyster beds in the channels. 
The navigation of the North branch terminates 4^ miles above Wal¬ 
lace, where there is a dike or dam, 600 feet long, constructed for the 
purpose of forming extensive hay meadows. The South and princi¬ 
pal branch has a bridge over its entrance, 2 miles above Wallace; it 
has steep banks of clay and sandstone, and is navigable 6 miles farther 
to the end of the tide, where in August the bed of the river was nearly 
dry. 

The village has a population of about 800, whose principal indus¬ 
tries consist in farming and in quarrying and exporting freestone, 
of which there are large and valuable beds in the vicinity. To facili¬ 
tate communication with the northern side of the harbor, which is a 
thickly settled district, wharves have been built on both shores and a 
ferry steamer runs between them. 

The fisheries are unimportant, but some salmon and alewives 
visit the river, and a few codfish visit the vicinity of Oak island, 
where some are caught in May and June. 

Oak island, 3 miles north-northwestward of Gravois point, is 
about If miles long east and west, of irregular shape, low and wooded. 
Jerry island, small and wooded, lies 1,300 yards westward of it and 
on the northern side of Fox harbor, just within Mackenzie point. 

Shoal water with less than 3 fathoms extends 1,300 yards south¬ 
eastward of Oak island. 

Oak island bar is of sand, and extends from Oak island nearly 
2£ miles southward towards Gravois point. Westward of the bar the 
whole bay is shallow, excepting Ship or Wallace channel. The eastern 
side of this bar may be approached to the depth of 4 fathoms. 

Ship channel, leading to Wallace harbor, is 600 yards wide at its 
entrance, between the southern point of the bar and the shoal which 
stretches out 800 yards from Gravois point. From the entrance the 
channel runs northward and westward, curving round Horton shoal, 
and passing between it and the shallow water to the northward, which 
is continuous from the bar to Mullin point. The least depth in the 
fairway of the channel is 16 feet at low water. 


164 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


Horton shoal, of sand, stretches out \ mile eastward from Horton 
and Cantwell points, and its northern part, drying out. 800 yards 
from Horton spit, can generally be seen. 

Horton spit, of low sand, inclosing a marsh, extends 800 yards 
northward to Horton point, the northern end of this spit, which is 
bold. The channel passes close to Horton point, and thence trends 
westward f mile to the entrance of the harbor. 

Mullin Point range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 25 feet 
high, on Mullin point, the northern side of Wallace harbor entrance, 
exhibits, at 39 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should, 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 48 feet high, rising through a dwelling 
285° 491 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 82 feet 
above high water a fixed red-light, which should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 8 miles, over a small arc on each side of the 
range line. 

The two lights in line lead over Oak Island bar and into Ship 
channel. 

Marfarlane Point range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 
30 feet high, on Macfarlane point, exhibits, at 41 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light. 

A similar lighthouse, 45 feet high, 258°, 620 yards from the preced¬ 
ing lighthouse, exhibits at 100 feet above high water, a fixed red 
light. 

These lights in line, 258°, lead from the Mullin point range line to 
buoy No. 7. 

The lights are visible over a small arc on both sides of the range 
line, in clear weather, a distance of 4 miles. 

Buoys.—Ross Point cask buoy, No. 1, is moored in 23 feet in the 
entrance of Ship channel with Gravois point bearing 140°, distant 
1,133 yards. 

Ship Bar cask buoy, No. 2, is moored in 18 feet on the southern 
edge of Ship bar, with Gravois point 124°, 1.1 miles. 

Horton Shoal cask buoy, No. 3, is moored in 8 feet in Ship channel, 
with Cantwell point 129°, 1,333 yards. 

Oak Island Bar can buoy, No. 4, is moored in 20 feet outside Oak 
Island bar on the line of Mullin Point range lights, with Cantwell 
point 250°, 1.1 miles. 

Fox Harbor Channel can buoy, No. 5, is moored in 21 feet off the 
mouth of Fox Island channel on the line of Mullin Point range lights, 
and with the front light 1,566 yards distant. 

Mullin Point cask buoy is moored in 26 feet off Mullin point, and 
with the front range light 335°, 1,000 yards. 


WALLACE HARBOR. 


165 


Middle Ground can buoy is moored in 27 feet off the southern 
extremity of Middle ground, north of Lazy bay, with the northern 
point of Lazy Bay spit 112°, 166 yards. 

Graystone Wharf cask buoy is moored in 30 feet of water off Gray- 
stone wharf, with the extreme end of the ballast jetty 156°, 166 yards. 

Oyster Island cask buoy is moored in 30 feet of water off the east¬ 
ern end of Oyster island, with the eastern extreme of the island 348°, 
350 yards. 

Betts Point cask buoy is moored in 30 feet of water off Betts point, 
‘with the northern extreme of the point 218°, 266 yards. 

Forks cask buoy is moored in 22 feet of water at the junction of 
the northern and southern branches of the river, with the northern 
extreme of Betts point 133°, 400 yards. 

All the buoys are painted black and white in vertical stripes, and 
are moored in mid-channel. 

Anchorage.—There is anchorage anywhere from 200 to 1,000 
yards within the harbor entrance, where the channel is 300 yards wide 
and carries 3 to 6 fathoms, with mud bottom. Tolerably safe anchor¬ 
age, sheltered by the bar, on which the sea breaks in heavy weather, 
may be obtained in 4 to 5 fathoms, mud, northwestward of No. 3 
buoy. 

Directions.—It is necessary on account of the narrowness of the 
channel to take a pilot to proceed into the harbor. 

Winds from southwest, through south, to northeast, are fair or 
leading winds into Wallace harbor. 

Approaching from the northward, pass Oak island at a distance 
of fully f mile, or in 5 fathoms water, to avoid the reef off its east¬ 
ern point. Approaching from the eastward, pass Treen bluff 1 mile 
distant, and in not less than 5 fathoms to avoid Treen reef. In either 
case, approach the shore about \ mile eastward of Gravois point, and 
if entering by ship channel, do not bring the eastern end of Oak 
island northward of 327° until the southern side of Saddle island is 
open only 1 degree northward of Treen bluff, bearing 82°. 

Then steer for No. 1 buoy, passing close to it on either side, and 
thence shape courses from one buoy to the next in order, omitting 
No. 4, or Oak Island Bar buoy, and thus enter over Ship bar in 16 
feet at low water. From southeastward of No. 5 buoy, the align¬ 
ment of Macfarlane Point lighthouses leads to the anchorage; there¬ 
fore take this range when on. 

To enter over Oak .Island bar, where there is a depth of 10 feet at 
low water, bring, while still eastward of the bar, the range light¬ 
houses at Mullin point in line, 283°. Keep this alignment until 
Macf arlane Point range lighthouses are in line, 258°, when take that 
range and steer to buoy No. 7 Middle Ground can buoy, on the south- 


166 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


crn end of the Middle ground; thence proceed to the wharves in the 
harbor, or anchor at discretion. 

Caution.—If the vessel draws more than 15 feet, it will be well, 
after picking up the Macfarlane Point range, to keep it a little open 
to the southward, steering rather for the back light, or else steer for 
No. 6 buoy. Macfarlane Point range kept on leads across the shoal 
to the southward of Mullin point in 15 feet. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Wallace harbor, at 
lOh. 30m.; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. The rate of the tidal 
streams is greatest in the entrance of the harbor, and there it does not 
exceed 1J knots during summer, while outside in Ship channel it is 
usually 1 to 1J knots. The ebb may be somewhat stronger in spring 
after the melting of the winter snow. 

"Water in large quantities is not easy to get, the supply coming 
from wells and springs, which boats can approach only at high water. 

Fox harbor.—To the southward of Oak island a bay runs in 
westward about 2 miles, to Mullin point, which separates Fox har¬ 
bor on the northwest from Wallace harbor on the south. Fox harbor 
runs in about 3J miles to the north-northwest, with a channel through 
flats of tenacious red clay and weeds, which nearly dry at low water. 
There are 3 to 4 fathoms water in this channel, but only 8 or 9 feet 
at low water, springs, over the bar, across which a course 353° will 
lead. 

The coast.—At a little more than 1 mile from the northern ex¬ 
treme of Oak island is Mackenzie point, which is separated from Oak 
island by sand bars and a gully through which boats may pass except 
at low water, when it is nearly dry. From Mackenzie point the coast 
trends northward f- mile to Smith point, thence west-northwestward 
2 J miles to cape Cliff, and thence westward 9 miles to Pugwash point. 
Nearly all of this coast is unbroken and for the most part composed 
of clay and sandstone cliffs, 50 feet high, from which the land rises 
to the summit of a ridge 150 feet high. Along the coast and the 
ridge are numerous flourishing farms, belonging for the most part to 
Scotch highland immigrants, and termed the Gulf shore settlement. 

Pugwash bay has its entrance between Pugwash point and Lewis 
head, which bears from the former 262°, distant 2J- miles. Off both 
of these points are reefs which render great caution necessarjr in the 
approach. The rivers Philip and Pugwash, separated by a strip of 
land 2 miles wide, flow into the bay. 

Pugwash reef extends west-northwestward f mile from Pugwash 
point, and dries out a little more than half that distance. There 
are rocky patches, with 11 and 12 feet water, § mile northward and 
northeastward of the point, and others a full mile out from the shore 
farther eastward; there is also, 2 miles offshore, uneven rocky ground, 


PUG WASH BAY. 


167 


with a less depth than 4 fathoms, which renders it unsafe for a ves¬ 
sel of heavy draft to go within the depth of 5 fathoms. 

Lewis reef extends north-northeastward 2J miles from Lewis head; 
its outer part is composed of detached rockv patches, on which 
there are 14 to 18 feet water, with a greater depth between them; 
but the inner part is shallow, and there is as little as 6 feet water 1£ 
miles from the shore. 

Pugwash road, in the entrance of Pugwash bay, affords excel¬ 
lent anchorage in 16 to 19 feet at low water, sand and clay bottom, 
and sheltered by Philip bar and Lewis reef from westerly and north¬ 
westerly, and by Pugwash reef from easterly and northeasterly, 
winds; it is open between northwest and north, but the shallow Avater 
outside prevents sufficient sea from coming in to endanger a vessel 
during summer. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 44 feet high, on Fishing point, 
the eastern point of Pugwash road, exhibits at 48 feet above high 
water a fixed light, showing red seaward and white toward the har¬ 
bor, and should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 8 miles. 

Anchorage. —The best anchorage is directly on the line joining 
Bergeman and Pugwash points, and with Fishing point 85°, distant 
nearly J mile; but vessels may lie 4 mile farther southward, or close 
off the bar, in 14 feet at low water. Still farther in, the bay is all 
shoal, excepting the narrow channel, which curves round its eastern 
side, and leads to the harbor. 

Directions. —While seaward of the shoals^ at least 3 miles from 
the light on Fishing point, and in not less than 5 fathoms, bring 
Bergeman point, the southern entrance point of river Philip, to bear 
214°, and approach with the point on that bearing. When the Eng¬ 
lish church steeple at Pugwash is in line with Fishing point, the 
eastern point of the bay, bearing 145°, the vessel is about 1 mile from 
the northwestern end of Pugwash reef; then steer 180° for f mile 
and anchor in 16 to 19 feet at low water, clay bottom. 

Caution. —When one is approaching Pugwash road either from 
the eastward or from the westward a safe rule will be to keep in 5 
fathoms or more until the lighthouse on Fishing point bears 180°, 
then alter course to bring Bergeman point on the bearing given above. 

Pugwash harbor, at the head of the bay and at the entrance of 
the river of the same name, is small, but secure, and has more water 
inside than on the bar, where the depth is 14 feet at low water or¬ 
dinary springs. The bar is about \ mile within the entrance of the 
bay, and from it a crooked channel, from 100 to 200 yards wide, leads 
through flats of sand and weeds for the distance of 1 mile to the 
harbor’s mouth. For this channel no directions can be given; a pilot 
is indispensable, and one can be obtained by making the usual signal. 


168 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


Pugwash river, immediately within the harbor, extends into a 
small lake 1J miles long and 1 mile broad, in which there are several 
small islands and peninsulas forming scenery of considerable beauty, 
especially when viewed from the summit of Oxley point, at the inner 
side of the town. The channel through the lake, between flats of 
mud and weeds, nearly dry at low water, is 100 to 200 yards wide 
and has 2£ to 6 fathoms water in it. The river continues navigable 
for small vessels about 2 miles above the lake and for boats to a dis¬ 
tance of 7 miles from its entrance. 

On the western side of the lake the narrow channel of Limestone 
creek leads to quarries of limestone, unfit for building, but which sup¬ 
ply Prince Edward island, as well as the neighboring country, with 
lime. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Pugwash harbor at lOh. 30m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 4 feet. The 
rate of the tidal streams, which is greatest in the entrance of the har¬ 
bor, does not exceed 2 knots, except perhaps the ebb in spring after 
the melting of the winter’s snow. The rate in Pugwash road is rarely 
more than 1 knot. 

Pugwash. —The village of Pugwash, with its wharves and small 
wooden English church, stands on the eastern side of the entrance of 
the harbor. Immediately within there is a fine little landlocked basin, 
with a depth of nearly 7 fathoms, in which vessels moor in security. 

There are no fisheries of any consequence here. 

The Intercolonial railway is connected with Pugwash by a branch 
to Pugwash junction, about 4J. miles inland. 

Water. —There is no good watering place at Pugwash, where the 
supply is from wells, or from springs that are frequently dry in 
summer. 

Philip river enters the sea between Bergeman point and Lewis 
head. Its mouth is more than 1 mile wide, but a bar of sand and 
stones stretches across it, leaving only a narrow and tortuous channel 
with a depth of 8 feet in it at low water. Within the bar a depth of 
12 feet at low water can be carried for 5 miles up the river, and 
depths of 4 to 5 fathoms exist in some places. The channel, between 
flats of mud and weeds, in some parts is not more than 40 to 50 yards 
wide. Boats ascend for about 9 miles, at which distance the tide 
ends, and there is a small rapid. The quantity of water discharged 
by the river is small, excepting in spring and autumn. 

The settlements on both shores are increasing. 

Port Howe or Port Philip, a straggling settlement, 3 to 4 miles 
long, with about 500 inhabitants, and from which much hay, tar, 
bark, etc., is shipped, is situated on the river about 4 miles westward 
of Pugwash. A wharf has been constructed. 


BAY VERTE. 


169 


The coast of the mainland from Lewis head trends northwest¬ 
ward for 8£ miles to Cold Spring head, the southern entrance point 
of bay Yerte, and in this distance there is no place available for ship¬ 
ping. The 3-fathom curve follows the coast at the distance of 1 to 1 
mile, and the only detached danger is a spot with 13 feet at low 
water, 24 miles 323° from Lewis head. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse with a red lantern, 36 feet 
high, at 35 yards within the northern part of Cold Spring head, 
exhibits, at 60 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 13 miles. 

Bay Verte is 9 miles wide across its entrance from Cold Spring 
head to Indian point, but contracts to the breadth of 2-| miles near its 
head. It runs in for 11 miles and separates the provinces of Nova 
Scotia and New Brunswick, whose boundary line crosses the isthmus 
from the head of bay Verte to Cumberland basin, a distance of about 
11 miles. There is no harbor in bay Yerte, which is completely open 
to easterly winds and is very shallow near its head, where flats of mud 
and weeds dry out to a distance of J mile from the shore. 

Tidnish river is the most considerable stream in bay Yerte, which 
it enters on the southern side near the head of the bay. It has a 
depth of only 3 feet of water, in a very narrow channel, when the 
tide is out, and it is approached by a narrow channel, carrying 3 to 
7 feet, through flats of mud and weeds, which dry out a mile from its 
mouth. Two and one-fourth miles up from its entrance, following the 
windings of the river, it is crossed by a bridge, and about 3 miles 
farther up the tide is limited in its ascent by Toby’s mill. 

In the northern corner of the head of the bay is Gaspereau river, a 
small stream fit only for boats. 

There are thriving settlements on either side of bay Yerte, and 
especially at its head, where extensive tracts of meadow land have 
been formed by diking out the tide. 

Shoals. —The following rocky shoals lie directly in the fairway of 
the bay: 

Aggermore rock, with 18 feet least water, is situated 30° 2| 
miles from Cold Spring head. 

Laurent shoal, of rock and sand, with 16 feet least water, is about 
J mile long and 800 yards wide. From its shoalest part cape St. 
Laurent bears 302°, 2f miles, Ephraim island 290°, and Cold Spring 
head 185°. The shoal is steep-to on its eastern side, close to which is 
a depth of 4 fathoms. 

Aggermore rock and Laurent shoal are the shallowest parts of an 
extensive rocky bank, which is thinly covered with sand and extends 
southward from capes St. Laurent and Spear on the northern side of 
bay Yerte, so as to leave a deep channel about 2 miles wide between 


170 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


the bank and Cold Spring head. At low water a depth of only 3^ 
fathoms may be reckoned on between Aggermore rock and Laurent 
shoal, and also between Laurent shoal and the banks off the northern 
shore of the bay. 

Spear shoal is a bank of sand and stones resting on sandstone, 
upward of 1 mile long, east and west, and 600 yards broad, with depths 
of 15 to 18 feet, except on a patch of rock near its eastern end, where 
there is a depth of only 10 feet and from which cape Spear bears 304°, 
1J miles and Indian point 358°. The lead gives little warning in ap¬ 
proaching this shoal from the eastward, on which side there are 3J 
to 4J fathoms close-to; but it is avoided by not approaching it to less 
water than 44 fathoms. There are 3d fathoms of water between it 
and cape Spear. 

Heart shoal, lying about a mile westward from Spear shoal and 
from which cape Spear bears 12°, 1J miles, has 6 feet least water; 
this shoal lies within the 3-fathom line of soundings. 

Boss spit, of sand, extends J mile from the southern shore of the 
bay between Boss and Jackson points, and 34 miles west-northwest¬ 
ward from Cold Spring head; it dries out to its edge, and is so steep- 
to that there are 17 feet water close to its outer point. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at bay Yerte, at lOh. 
0m.; springs rise 9 feet, neaps 5 feet. 

Directions. —In entering bay Yerte, keep the Nova Scotia coast 
aboard, running up in 7 fathoms "water, till off Cold Spring head, 
where, at the distance of about 1J miles from the shore, southward 
of the banks and shoals extending southward from cape St. Laurent, 
the water deepens to 8 and even nearly to 10 fathoms. About 3 miles 
north-northwestward of Cold Spring head the depth of water de¬ 
creases to less than 5 fathoms and then continues to shoal gradually, 
with mud and sand bottom, to the head of the bay. Do not go into 
less water than 3J fathoms until past Boss spit or until Cold Spring 
light bears 141°. Farther up the bay there is no danger, except two 
patches of stone with 3 and 5 feet water, at 6°, J and f mile from 
Tidnish head, which is well in toward the head of the bay on the 
southern side. There are several ballast heaps at the entrance of the 
channel of the river.' but all are within the 2-fathom curve of 
soundings. 

New Brunswick. 

Tormentine reefs, which are very dangerous, extend a little more 
than 3 miles eastward from Indian point, the northern entrance 
point of bay Yerte: but there is rocky ground with 34 fathoms 
fully 1 mile farther offshore. A small part of these reefs, which 
dries at low water, bears 85°, 2J miles from Indian point; the whole 


TORMENTINE REEFS—“CAPE TORMENTINE. 


171 


°f Ephraim island open southward of cape St. Laurent leads more 
than a mile southward of it; but as Ephraim island is difficult to 
make out, this mark is not of much use. 

Nearly midway between the dry part of the reef and Indian point 
there is a patch of ropks with 7 feet at low water. A depth of 2£ 
fathoms at low tide can be carried through by small vessels between 
that patch and Indian point, and shelter may be obtained under the 
latter in northerly winds; but large vessels, to get under the lee of 
the point, must pass outside the whole of the reef. 

Bell buoy. —A black bell buoy is moored in 6 fathoms J mile east- 
northeastward of the outer dry part of Tormentine reefs. 

Tidal streams—Caution. —The tidal streams in the vicinity of 
Tormentine reefs are strong; the flood stream setting south-south¬ 
eastward and the ebb north-northwestward. The south-going stream 
sets over the reefs at the rate of 8 knots, causing a great rippling 
over the part that dries, and generally indicating its position. Dur¬ 
ing the flood tide the northern side of the reefs must not be ap¬ 
proached nearer than a depth of 9 fathoms. 

Directions. —To run through the 24-fathom channel between In¬ 
dian point and the dry part of the Tormentine reefs, bring Indian 
point and cape Spear in line, 131°, and run on that range until the 
eastern end of cape Tormentine is in line with the western side of 
the northern Jourimain island, 315°; then keep this range on astern 
until in a depth of 5 fathoms at low water, and southward of the 
reefs. 

Caution. —When in this vicinity one must remember Spear shoal. 
To keep clear of it, do not bring Cold Spring light to bear to the 
southward of 220°, unless on the range given above for the 24 -fathom 
channel; and do not bring Jourimain Island light to bear to.the 
eastward of 339°, unless well over toward the Nova Scotia shore. 

Cape Tormentine is the extreme eastern and central point of the 
headland which forms the eastern part of New Brunswick, and it is 
situated about 1J miles northward of Indian point. 

A breakwater pier incloses a basin or harbor of about 4 acres in 
area, with a depth of 13 to 18 feet at low water. This harbor was 
constructed for purposes of interprovincial communication between 
the mainland and Prince Edward island in winter, the distance across 
to cape Traverse being 9 miles. Communication by steamer between 
cape Tormentine and cape Traverse is kept up in winter, except when 
it is prevented by heavy ice. 

Cape Tormentine is the terminus of the New Brunswick and Prince 
Edward Island railway; it has a post-office, telephone, telegraph, a 
good hotel. Dominion express, a church, and several lobster factories. 

Farming and fishing are carried on successfully. 


172 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-SOUTH SHORE. 


A large number of vessels load here with sawed lumber and prod¬ 
ucts of the sea and farm for foreign ports. 

Railway pier. —The railway pier of the New Brunswick and 
Prince Edward Island railway projects from the coast at cape Tor- 
mentine for 2,550 feet seaward, over the shoal wjiich borders the shore. 
This railway joins the Intercolonial railway at Sackville. 

Ice boats. —The ice boats used for the mail service in winter be¬ 
tween cape Tormentine and cape Traverse are kept in a square, wooden 
building, 40 feet high, painted drab, surmounted by a lantern rising 
from the middle of the roof, the building being situated immediately 
northward of the inner end of the pier and close to high-water mark. 

Bea.con—Range mark.—A white, diamond-shaped, slatwork bea¬ 
con, 10 feet high and 8 feet wide, is placed on top of the freight shed, 
an unpainted wooden building, 100 feet long and 20 feet high, on the 
southeastern corner of the railway pier. This beacon, in line with the 
Baptist Church steeple at cape Tormentine, clears the southern end of 
Jourimain shoals in a least depth of 5J fathoms. 

Range lights. —A mast on the western side of the freight shed on 
the railway pier exhibits, at 28 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen in clear weather from all points of ap¬ 
proach a distance of 7 miles. 

A square, white lighthouse, 32 feet high, on the bank near the inner 
end of the pier, 100 feet back from high-water mark, and situated 
245°, 873 yards from the preceding light, exhibits, at 46 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather 
from all directions seaward a distance of 12 miles. 

These lights in line, bearing 245°, lead to the pier head clear of the 
southern end of Jourimain shoals. 

Fog bell. —A bell, situated on the eastern end of a small building, 
on the southern edge of the long part of the pier, 99 yards from its 
northeastern corner, is rung by hand as a signal to the mail steamer 
in thick weather. 

Telegraph cable. —A telegraph cable crosses the strait from cape 
Tormentine to cape Traverse. 

Jourimain islands, lying off the northeastern part of Cape Tor¬ 
mentine headland, are connected with each other, and with the main¬ 
land, by sand bars and marshes; but they appear as islands from a 
distance that is sufficient to dip the sand bars below the horizon. 

Cape Jourimain, the northern extreme of Jourimain islands, is 
situated about 2f miles northward of cape Tormentine. 

Light. —A white, octagonal lighthouse, 45 feet high, on the eastern 
end of the southern Jourimain island, exhibits, at 72 feet above high 
water, a flashing white light, showing a flash every 10 seconds; it is 


JOURIMAIN SHOALS-CAPE BALD. 


173 


visible seaward from 103°, through south and west, to 333°, and 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 14 miles. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Jourimain island at 
9h. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Jourimain shoals extend from about 1} miles northeastward of 
cape Tormentine, along the coast off the Jourimain islands and west¬ 
ward to Peacock cove, which is situated about 4 miles westward of 
cape Jourimain. They are of sandstone, thinly and partly covered 
with sand, and their southeastern point, a narrow ridge with only 6 
feet at low water, is the boldest part of the shoals. The shoals reach 
326° 1^ miles from cape Jourimain, and there is a patch of 4 fathoms 
338° If miles from that cape; there is also a patch of 3J fathoms 23° 
2^ miles from Peacock cove. The southeastern point of the shoals 
should not be approached nearer than the depth of 9 fathoms at night, 
but farther westward the shoals may be approached with proper 
caution to 6 fathoms at low water. 

Buoy. —A conical red buoy is moored in 7 feet water off the south¬ 
eastern point of Jourimain shoals. This buoy is replaced in winter 
by a red spar buoy. 

Anchorage. —Southward of Jourimain shoals, and between them 
and Tormentine reefs, there is good anchorage with westerly winds 
in 5 to 6 fathoms, sand bottom, with clay underneath. 

Cape Bruin lies 6J miles westward of cape Jourimain, and in the 
bay between them there is good anchorage, with southeasterly, 
through south, to westerly winds, in 5 fathoms, sand. 

Caution is necessary in approaching this coast on account of 
Jourimain shoals. 

Little Shemogue and Shemogue rivers, 3J miles and 64 miles, 
respectively, westward of cape Bruin, having narrow and intricate 
channels, over shifting bars of sand, are suitable only for boats and 
very small vessels. During the survey, at springs, 8 feet could be 
carried in over the bar of the former, and 10 feet over that of the 
latter. 

Anchorage. —Off these rivers, in the bay between cape Bruin and 
cape Bald, the latter bearing from the former 284° nearly 12 miles, 
there is good anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms, sand bottom. Shoal water 
of less than 3 fathoms extends only about \ mile off the coast, which 
may be approached at night to the depth of 6 fathoms at low water. 

Cape Bald, a sandstone cliff, 40 feet high, is bold, and may be 
approached by the lead to the depth of 5 fathoms. 

Cape Pillet church, with its square tower, 1^ miles south-south- 
westward of the cape, forms a conspicuous mark from seaward. 


174 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 

Eouleaux point is 6J miles westward of cape Bald, and shoals 
extend over 1 mile off it. 

Xouchibouguet and Bouchagan rivers, in the sandy bay be¬ 
tween cape Bald and Bouleaux point, and 5J miles westward of cape 
Bald, are small, and can be entered by boats only at high water. 

Shediac bay is 6J miles wide from Bouleaux point to Shediac 
point, which is a low sandstone cliff and runs in about 5 miles. It 
contains several shoals and has less than 3 fathoms in its greater 
part. It is therefore unsuited to large vessels. 

The shore of the bay from Bouleaux point trends westward 4| 
miles to Chene point; thence southwestward 2 miles to the head of the 
bay; and from Shediac point south-southwestward 2 miles to Grandi- 
gue point; thence southwestward 1 mile and then southward 44 miles, 
making the head of the bay. 

Shediac island, the northern end of which bears 188° 1,400 yards 
from Grandigue point, and Snake point, the southern end of the 
island, 321°, 900 yards from the northwestern end of Chene Point 
breakwater, extends north and south nearly 2 miles across the western 
part of the bay. 

Bank. —A rocky bank, with 10 feet least water, lies 129° nearly 
1 mile from Gulnare point, the northeastern point of Shediac island. 

Medea rock, situated 51°, 2 miles from the northern part of Chene 
point, and 400 yards within the line joining Shediac and Cocagne 
points, is very small, with 7 feet least water; there are 24 to 4 fathoms 
water for 200 yards around it, excepting to the southward, in which 
direction there are several rocky patches, with 12 feet water, be¬ 
tween the rock and the shore-, which is nearly If miles away. 

Buoy. —A can buoy, painted red and black in horizontal stripes, is 
moored in 8 feet water at 100 yards north-northeastward of the 
shallowest part of Medea rock; it may be left on either hand by ves¬ 
sels drawing less than 12 feet. 

Zephyr rock, 23° nearly 1| miles from the northern part of Chene 
point, and 273° a little more than 1 mile from Medea rock, is also 
very small, with 9 feet least water. From about mile southward of 
the rock to the shore there is a depth of 11 to 14 feet water. 

There are from 14 to 22 feet of water between Medea and Zephyr 
rocks, but the best channel is west-northwestward of them. 

Lightbuoy in autumn.— A black cylindrical lightbuoy, show¬ 
ing an intermittent white light at short intervals, is moored, during 
autumn only, in 19 feet water, 400 yards northward of Zephyr rock. 

Buoys.— A can buoy, painted red and black in horizontal stripes, 
is moored, in 18 feet water, 200 yards westward of Zephyr rock. It 
may be passed on either hand. 


SHEDIAC HARBOR. 175 

A black can buoy is moored, in 17 feet water, on the northern end 
of the shoal about 4 mile south-southwestward of Zephyr rock. 

Shediac North Channel range lights. —A square white light¬ 
house with a red lantern, 27 feet high, on the northern part of Chene 
point, exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 7 miles. 

A square white lighthouse with a red lantern, 39 feet high, 192°, 
201 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 43 feet above 
high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 8 miles. These lights are visible on and over a small arc 
on either side of their alignment, which leads through Shediac North 
channel to the westward of Zephyr rock, and to the intersection of 
the range line of these lights with that of the Shediac Island range 
lights. 

Shediac Island range lights.— A square white lighthouse with a 
red lantern, 37 feet high, on the eastern coast of Shediac island about 
900 yards from Snake point, exhibits, at 30 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance 
of 11 miles. 

A square white lighthouse with a red lantern, 47 feet high, 264°, 
207 yards from the preceding light, exhibits, at 52 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 12 miles. 

These lights are visible on, and over a small arc on each side of, their 
alignment, as well as toward the harbor, and in line they lead toward 
Shediac harbor to the southward of Medea and Zephyr rocks, to the 
intersection of their range line with that of Shediac Harbor range 
lights. 

Note.— On Shediac island there are two conspicuous trees, situated 
-i mile north-northeastward of the range lighthouses; these trees 
may show in misty weather when the lighthouses are not visible. 

Shediac harbor is the only port on this part of the coast which a 
vessel in distress can run for as a harbor of refuge. 

The harbor lies between Chene point and Snake point, which is 
1,400 yards northwestward of it. The space in the harbor where 
shipping may moor, in 13 to 16 feet at low water, is about 1,200 yards 
long and 300 to 600 yards wide; but the harbor is much more ex¬ 
tensive for vessels of light draft, although encumbered by ballast 
heaps. The depth that can be carried into the harbor under ordinary 
circumstances is 15 feet at low water ordinary springs; and the bot¬ 
tom, both in the channel and harbor, is mud and sand. 

The deep part of the harbor is safe except during the rare north¬ 
easterly gales of autumn, when instances have occurred of all vessels, 
at anchor and moored to the wharf, being driven on shore. 


176 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT - WEST SHORE. 

A swell is felt in the harbor at high water in a northeasterly sum¬ 
mer gale; but it is never sufficient to endanger a vessel with good 
anchors and cables. A well-equipped vessel would ride safely through 
any moderate summer gale, even in the bay just outside the bar. 

Chene bank. —A sandy bar runs out 1,600 yards northward from 
Chene point, and at three-quarters ebb is dry for nearly half that 
distance. This bar and the shoal off the southeastern part of Shediac 
island render the harbor secure. 

The entrance between the northern point of the bar and the shoal 
water off the island is the narrowest part of the channel, and is there 
250 yards wide, between depths of 12 feet on either side. A channel. 
100 feet wide, has been dredged to a depth of 15 feet at low water 
from the line of Shediac Island lights to the wharf, and a basin, 360 
feet in length and 140 feet in width, in front of the wharf, has been 
dredged to a depth of 19 feet at low water. 

Deep hole, with 19 feet at low water, is situated 14°, 1.300 
yards from the northwestern corner of the government break¬ 
water. Vessels anchor in it to complete their cargoes or to await a 
tide high enough to enable them to leave. Eastward of Deep hole 
the water shoals rapidly to 10 feet on Chene bank. 

Wharf. —A wharf 1,950 feet long, on which terminates the Inter¬ 
colonial railway from Moncton, extends from Chene point. Its outer 
end divides into two parts, making a safe dock. An inner and outer 
breakwater, each 600 feet long, with an opening 80 feet wide between 
them, have been constructed about 400 feet from the northeastern side 
of the wharf, and a ballast wharf (so called), 200 feet long, connects 
the outer breakwater with the wharf. 

Harbor range lights.— An iron mast, 29 feet high, with a shed 
at the base, on the northwestern corner of the government break¬ 
water, and 120 yards northeastward of the outer end of the northern 
arm of the railway wharf, exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, a 
fixed *white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
6 miles. 

A similar mast, 37 feet high, with a shed at the base, on the outer 
end of the southern arm of the railway wharf, and 195°, 207 yards 
from the preceding mast, exhibits, at 38 feet above high water, a 
fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance 
of 6 miles. 

These lights in line lead from the intersection of their range line 
with that of Shediac Island range lights to the wharves in Shediac 
harbor. 

Buoys.— A red can buoy is moored on the edge of the shoal water 
extending southeastward of Shediac island, with the front light¬ 
house on that island bearing 254°, 1,500 yards. 



SHEDIAC HARBOR. 177 

A red can buoy is moored on the edge of the same shoal with the 
front lighthouse on Shediac island bearing 259°, 900 yards. 

Three red buoys are moored northwestward of Chene bank and 
immediately westward of the line of the railway wharf (harbor) 
range lights. 

Tides.— The tides in Shediac bay are extremely complicated. The 
establishment, at the only full and change period observed, was Oh. 
0m. The highest tides occur at full and new moon, and rise 4 feet 
above the lowest water. At other times the ris^T)f tide is about 3 
feet. Low water occurs at intervals, varying from 1 to 18 hours 
after high water, and ranges from 3 inches to 1 feet. The streams 
generall}' are weak. 

Pilots. —Pilotage is compulsory in Shediac harbor; the charge 
inward or outward is $1.50 per foot draft of water. 

Ice.— Shediac bay is generally frozen over from the first week in 
December until the end of April, being completely closed between 
those dates. The first vessel arrives, from sea, about April 30, and 
the last one leaves about December 8. 

Directions.— Vessels entering Shediac harbor take a pilot; if one 
cannot be obtained, observe the following directions, which lead in 
through a least depth of 15 feet at low water; but the channel from 
the line of Shediac Island lights to the wharf is very narrow. 

From the eastward, and while eastward of Medea rock (Cassie 
Point light kept bearing to westward of 328° will insure this), bring 
and keep the lighthouses on Shediac island, or their lights at night, in 
line, bearing 364°, and steer on the range, passing about 400 yards 
southward of Medea rock, and close to the black buoy on the north¬ 
ern side of the shoal southwestward of Zephyr rock; leave this buoy 
on the port hand. Continue with the range on until near the west¬ 
ern red can buoy, or until the range-light masts on the railway wharf 
and breakwater, or their lights at night, are nearly in line, when 
alter course to the southward, so as to bring them in line, bearing 
195°, and keep this range on, passing eastward of the three red buoys 
in the channel northwestward of Chene bank. 

By day, when the cliff of cape Brfile is in line with the end of the 
grass off Chene point, bearing 102°, sheer westward, and anchor; 
by night, proceed for rather more than 4 mile, with the railway wharf 
range lights in line, and then anchor slightly eastward of that line. 
The railway wharf and government breakwater light masts or lights 
in line lead to the wharf. 

From the northward, after passing eastward of Grandigue bank 
and while northward of Zephyr rock, steer to bring the range light¬ 
houses on Chene point, or their lights at night, in line, bearing 192°. 
Keep this range on until the range lighthouses on Shediac island are 
50918—08-12 


178 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 


nearly in line, then bring them in line ahead and proceed as above 
directed. 

When the lightbuoy is in position it may be approached while 
bearing between 259° and 214°; pass northward of it and bring the 
lighthouses on Chene point in line; then proceed as above directed. 

The masts on the government breakwater and the railway wharf, 
from which the inner range lights are shown, are often hidden by 
the masts of vessels lying alongside. 

Shediac village, which is situated on the southeastern shore of 
Shediac ba}q contains four churches, the most conspicuous from sea¬ 
ward being the Episcopal and Roman Catholic, which are sur¬ 
mounted by spires, and stand at the eastern end of the village. The 
Methodist also has a spire, and is situated in the middle, while the 
Presbyterian, a white building with a square tower, is near the west¬ 
ern end of the village. Westward of Scoudouc river entrance is a 
Baptist church, a yellow building with a small tower, and northward 
of it is Cape church; neither of these is visible from seaward. 

Upper Grandigue village and church are situated on the mainland 
northwestward of the northern end of Shediac island. 

Scoudouc and Shediac rivers, in the southern and northwestern 
corners of the bay, respectively, are small streams navigable for boats 
to a few sawmills situated a few miles up at the head of the tide. 
There are bridges across each of these streams near their mouths, 
where there are oyster beds. There are also oyster beds, and beds of 
other shellfish, in many parts of the bay. 

The country about Shediac, which is fertile and well settled, con¬ 
sists of undulating ridges of clayey loam, attaining the height of 150 
feet, and resting on the sandstone of the coal formation. 

There is a good road for 14 miles across from Shediac to Moncton 
town, at the bend of Petitcodiac river. 

Chene point is the terminus of a branch of the Intercolonial 
railway and the entrepot of trade to Prince Edward island. A small 
village has been built there and contains several stores and two or 
three hotels, one of which is surmounted by a tower and flagstaff. 
The place is much resorted to for bathing in summer. Its population 
is about 250. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Chene point. 

Communication—Telegraph.— Steam vessels of the Prince Ed¬ 
ward Island Steam Navigation company run every day between 
this port and Summerside while navigation is open and connect with 
the trains. It is connected with Halifax, St. John, and Quebec by 
the Intercolonial railway. Chene point has telegraphic communica¬ 
tion with all parts of Canada and the United States. 


CHENE POINT-COCAGNE HARBOR. 


179 


Water, which is very scarce and not at all good at Shediac, may be 
bought from a contractor or it may be obtained with difficulty at 
high water from Scoudouc river. 

Supplies of all kinds may be obtained at Chene point. 

Coal.T— About GO tons of coal are usually kept in store at Chene 
point by the railroad company, and any quantity can be procured 
from Pictou in about 1 day. 

Port charges.—Pilotage, $1.50 per foot; harbor master’s fee, $4; 
health visit, $5; tonnage dues, 2 cents per ton. 

Trade. —The exports consist of lumber, salmon, potatoes, and 
oats. 

Repairs. —There are no facilities for repairing vessels at Shediac. 

Channel. —The channel to the mouth of Shediac river, northward 
of Shediac island, is very shallow, and winds through flats covered 
with eel grass; it can be utilized only by fishermen with local knowl¬ 
edge. It is marked by 13 spruce bush beacons on the southern side 
and 13 birch bush beacons on the northern side, and at the point 
where th§ channel crosses the bar it is marked by two cask buoys, 
a red buoy on the northern side off the northeastern corner of Seal 
bank in 6 feet water and a black buoy on the island side in 5 feet 
water. 

Shediac point, the northern point of the bay, is a low sandstone 
cliff. Cassie point is situated about 400 yards southward of it. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 27 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on Cassie point, exhibits, at 47 feet above high water, a re¬ 
volving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 30 
seconds, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Fog signal.— A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Anchorage. —There is good anchorage under Shediac point in 
northwesterly winds, in 18 feet, mud bottom. 

Grandigue bank, with 14 to 18 feet water over it, rock bottom, 
extends 2 miles eastward from Shediac point, and has its shoalest 
part near its outer edge. Excepting by small craft, this bank should 
not be approached to a depth of less than 5 fathoms. 

The coast from Shediac point trends north-northwestward for 2 
miles to Cocagne head, and thence about northwestward for 1J miles 
to Renouard point, which is composed of reddish sandstone cliffs 50 
feet high. 

Cocagne harbor entrance is between Renouard point and Pacquet 
point, the southeastern point of Cocagne island, bearing 315°, 1,400 
yards from Renouard point. The harbor is very small, and the 
channel over the bar of sand, gravel, and sandstone is narrow and 


180 NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 

crooked, with 10 feet at low water ordinary springs. Within the bar 
there is a depth of 2| to 4 fathoms for about J mile in a very narrow 
channel, where vessels moor. Farther in, the bay, which extends 
southward 21 miles from the island with a width of 14 miles, is 
shallow, with oyster beds and mud flats, covered with 4 to 6 feet 
water. 

To enter this harbor fine weather is absolutely necessary and a 
pilot is indispensable. 

Cocagne river enters the head of the bay 3 miles southwestward 
from the harbor’s mouth. It is crossed by a bridge just within its 
entrance, and is navigable by boats for several miles. The shores of 
the harbor and river are well settled by families of Acadian and 
British extraction, principally engaged in agriculture. Cocagne 
church is situated on the shore of the harbor 900 yards northward 
of the river entrance. 

Rraige lights. —A square white lantern, surmounting a square 
white inclosed building on the southern shore of the mouth of Co¬ 
cagne river, exhibits at 26 feet above high water a fixed red light, 
which is visible from all points of approach, and should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 6 miles. 

A pole surmounted by a diamond-shaped daymark, and situated 120° 
288 yards from the above light, exhibits at 47 feet above high water a 
fixed red anchor lens-lantern light, which is visible from all points 
of approach from seaward, and should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 8 miles. 

These two lights, in line bearing 120°, lead in from Northumber¬ 
land strait to the anchorage ground in - Cocagne harbor, and thence 
across the bay to the approach to Cocagne bridge. 

Directions. —When approaching Cocagne harbor from the east¬ 
ward, keep in 6 fathoms water until Cassie Point light bears 196°. 
This is to avoid Grandigue bank and the shoal that extends 14 miles 
to the eastward from Cocagne head. When Cassie point bears 196° 
haul to the westward and run in 4 fathoms until the Cocagne Harbor 
range lights are nearly in line; then change course to the southwest- 
ward to bring the range on, and stand in across the bar in 10 feet 
at low water with the range on. Proceed to the anchorage, keeping 
the range on, or, if desired and the draft permits, to the mouth of 
the river. To enter the river, unless one has local knowledge, a pilot 
is necessary. 

The anchorage is in 16 feet, with Pacquet point 23°, distant 1,400 
yards, and Renouard point 76°. 

When approaching from the northward avoid the northern end of 
Buctouche outer bar by keeping in at least 5 fathoms until the light 
on Buctouche sand bar bears 226°, then change course to 180° and 


BUCTOUCHE ROAD. 


181 


run down in 4 fathoms until the Cocagne Harbor range is nearly on, 
when proceed as above directed. 

The coast of Cocagne island, which is 60 feet high and thickly 
wooded, trends about northwest 1.9 miles, whence sand banks, nearly 
dry at low water, connect its northern end to Dixon point, a smali, 
low, rocky peninsula, 1 mile farther northward. 

The coast of the mainland inside of Cocagne island from the 
north point of the mouth of Cocagne river trends northward for 4^ 
miles to Dixon point, and thence northwestward 3.9 miles to Giddis 
point. 

Buctouche outer bar is a ridge of sand and rock, with to 2f 
fathoms water over it, beginning 1.600 yards northeast of Pacquet 
point and extending thence northward parallel to the shore for 7 
miles. Between the bar and the land there is a narrow channel with 
depths of to 5 fathoms. 

North patch, of rocks, with 12 feet least water, is small, and has 
a depth of 5 fathoms close outside it. It lies 2 miles offshore on 
the northeastern point of the outer bar with Cocagne church and the 
northwestern end of Cocagne island in line, bearing 190°, and Buc¬ 
touche church bearing 256°. 

Indian point, or Church point, bears 349°, 1J miles from Giddis 
point. 

Buctouche sand bar commences on the coast about 3^ miles north¬ 
ward of Indian point and takes a southeasterly direction for 6 miles, 
or to 21 miles from Dixon point. 

Light. —A lantern above the roof of a square white lighthouse, 
35 feet high, on the southern end of Buctouche sand bar, exhibits, at 
38 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in all 
directions of approach in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

Buctouche road, off the entrance of Buctouche river and in the 
widest part of the channel within the outer bar, is a safe anchorage 
for vessels with good ground gear; the bottom is a tenacious clay and 
the outer bar prevents any very heavy sea from coming in. Vessels 
drawing too much water to enter the river moor here. 

Directions. —Vessels that do not draw too much water pass over 
the outer bar, excepting North patch; larger vessels approach from 
the northward in not less than 31 fathoms as follows: 

Bring Buctouche church to bear southward of 248°, and run in 
shore on that course, passing northward of North patch, until Co¬ 
cagne church is in line with Dixon point 185°; change course at once 
to this range and keep the range on, passing close inside the outer 
bar, and clear of a small shoal lying between the bar and the shore and 
on which there are 17 feet water. While running along the sand bar. 


182 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 


be careful not to shut the church in behind Dixon point; immediately 
after Buctouche church opens southwestward of the sipall sandy 
islet which forms the southwestern point of Buctouche sand bar, an¬ 
chor in 22 to 24 feet water, with the breadth of Cocagne church open 
eastward of Dixon point and Dixon Point range lighthouses in line 
282°. 

Dixon Point range lights. —-A square white lighthouse, 30 feet 
high, on the shore 3 miles northward of Dixon point, on the southern 
side of the entrance to Buctouche river, exhibits, at 36 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 11 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, 350 yards 282° from the 
preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 41 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

These lights in line, lead across the inner bar into Buctouche harbor. 

Indian Point range lights. —A square white lighthouse with a 
red roof, 23 feet high, on Indian point, exhibits, at 23 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light that should be seen when in alignment with 
the following light in clear weather a distance of 9 miles. 

A square white lighthouse with a red roof, 23 feet high, 660 yards 
313° from the preceding light, exhibits, at 53 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light that should be seen, when in alignment Avith the 
preceding light, in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

These lights in line lead from intersection with Dixon Point range 
through the channel to where it turns abruptly westward to enter 
Buctouche river. 

Buoy. —A large black can buoy is moored in 3 fathoms water on 
the western side of Buctouche road 1,600 yards 158° from Buctouche 
sand bar lighthouse. 

Buctouche river flows southeastward through the shallow bay 
within Buctouche sand bar into the sea. At its mouth, and south- 
westward of the southern end of the sand bar, is a bar of sand and 
flat sandstone, with a depth of 7 feet at low water ordinary springs. 
Within this bar is a wide part of the channel where vessels ride safely 
in 2-J and 3 fathoms, mud bottom; off Giddis point the channel be¬ 
comes narrow, with a depth of 7 feet at low water. The channel of 
the river in its course through the bay is narrow, intricate, and en¬ 
cumbered with oyster beds; higher up the channel is free from ob¬ 
struction, and in some places has 5 fathoms water. Vessels ascend 
about 10 miles above the bar, and boats 14 miles, where the tide ends. 

Buctouche village, where considerable trade is carried on in lum¬ 
ber, coal, fish, etc., is situated about 4 miles up from the river entrance. 
A mile above Buctouche church there is a drawbridge. 


BUCTOUCHE KIVER. 


183 


The country in the vicinity of Buctouche river attains an elevation 
of about 200 feet above the sea. The banks of the river are well 
settled, principally by Acadians, and the clayey soil is very fertile. 
There are saw and grist mills at the head of the tide. 

The terminus of the Buctouche and Moncton railway is at Buc¬ 
touche. 

Buoys and beacons. —On the southern edge of North bank, which 
is to the southward of Buctouche sand bar, is moored a red can buoy. 

On the southwestern extremity of North bank is moored a red con¬ 
ical buoy. 

On the northern extreme of Mussel bank is moored a black cask 
buoy. 

On the extreme of Mud point on the northern side of the channel 
is moored a red cask buoy. 

A sunken wreck is marked by a black cask buoy. 

The turn of the channel to the westward is marked on its southern 
side by a black cask buoy. 

Between the turn of the channel and Priest point the sides of the 
channel are marked by bushes on the northern side and black pickets 
on the southern side, all driven into the mud banks. 

The extremity of Priest point is marked by a red cask buoy. 

From Priest point to the bridge the sides of the channel are marked 
by bushes on the northern side and by black pickets on the southern 
side. 

Directions. —A pilot, or local knowledge, is absolutely necessary 
to get up the river. The Dixon Point Range lighthouses or lights in 
line guide into the river until the Indian Point lighthouses or lights 
are in line; and that range leads into the river through the deepest 
channel to where the channel turns abruptly westward. But it must 
be observed that the channel is subject to change in easterly gales or 
from ice settling on the bar in winter. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Buctouche at Th. 0m.; 
springs rise 4 feet and neaps 2 feet; both time and rise are only ap¬ 
proximate. 

Wharf.— At Buctouche there is a wharf about 300 feet long, with 
a depth of IT feet along its face. It runs parallel to the bank and is 
situated immediately below the road bridge across the river; the 
back of the wharf has a branch of the railway close to it. 

Richibucto head, north-northwestward 124 miles from the south¬ 
eastern end of Buctouche sand bar, is of sandstone and clay cliffs, 50 
feet high. 

Shockpish river, in the bay between the sand bar and the head, 
and 44 miles southward of the head, affords shelter to boats at high 


184 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT—WEST SHORE. 


water. In 1903 the entrance channel of this river was 70 feet wide 
with a depth of 9 feet at high water. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 50 feet high, on Richibucto 
head, exhibits at 70 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 14 miles. 

The coast from Richibucto head trends northward for about 2 
miles; it then turns west-northwestward for 3| miles to the entrance 
of Richibucto river. 

Reef. —A sandstone reef extending about 1 mile offshore at Richi¬ 
bucto head, continues about 3 miles to the northward. 

Richibucto river is, among the rivers on the eastern side of New 
Brunswick, inferior only to the Miramichi, either in the distance to 
which it is navigable, or in the depth of water over its bar. 

The entrance of the Richibucto is about 700 yards wide; it lies 
between two sand bars, several miles in length, called the north and 
south beaches, on which there are sand hills 30 feet high. Im¬ 
mediately within the entrance there is a wide expanse of mud and 
weeds, nearly dry at 1ow t water, except in the channel of the river. 
On the northern side, a shallow bay leads, within the north beach, 
to lagoons; while on the the southern side, within the south beach, 
lies French island, and southward of its eastern end, French creek and 
Low village, where there is a church, visible in some directions sea¬ 
ward. Within the wide part of the Richibucto its breadth is 
rendered irregular by numerous bays on either side. About 3 miles 
within the entrance and just below Richibucto town the river is over 
800 yards wide, but it contracts to 300 yards, 1J miles farther up, 
after which it expands again for a considerable distance and, nearly 
to the end of the navigation is nowhere less than 160 yards broad, 
although the channel between mud banks, nearly dry when the tide 
it out, is much narrower. Low cliffs of sandy clay are frequent on 
either side of the river, but the adjacent country, although undulat¬ 
ing, does not exceed 80 or at the most 100 feet above the sea. 

There are flourishing and increasing settlements on its banks, as 
well as on those of its principal tributaries, the rivers Aldouin, St. 
Nicholas, and Molus, which, however, are of no importance for navi¬ 
gation. The population, of English, Scotch, Irish, and Acadian ex¬ 
traction, are engaged in agriculture and lumbering, but they do not 
prosecute the fisheries. Traces of coal are reported to have been 
found in the sandstone, w T hich forms the substratum of this and the 
neighboring county. 

Aldouin river enters on the northern side at about 2 miles within 
the entrance of the river. 

Richibucto river is navigable for boats nearly to the head of the 
tide, a distance of about 22 miles, following the stream in a general 
southwesterly direction. Vessels able to enter the river can be taken 


RICHIBUCTO RIVER. 


185 


about 13 miles up from the entrance; the depth in the channel vary¬ 
ing in that distance from 3 to 9 fathoms, over mud bottom. Smaller 
vessels ascend to 2 miles below the head of the tide, where the river 
is very shallow and rapid at low water. 

The bar extends about 2 miles from north beach eastward, or par¬ 
allel to south beach, no part of it being as much as a mile seaward of 
south beach; there is a rock in its eastern part, but the remainder is 
sand, dry at low water. 

There is a narrow channel over the bar, which commences at 1^- 
miles eastward of the river’s mouth, but it shifts with gales and the 
action of the ice. The least depth in the fairway of the channel in 
1905 was 13 feet. 

Range lights —Bar.—A mast, 40 feet high, on the southern side 
of south beach at about j mile eastward of the river entrance, exhibits, 
at 46 feet above high water, a fixed white light, that should be visible 
from a distance of 12 miles on the leading line in clear weather. x 

A lantern on a mast, on the northern side of south beach, exhibits 
at 35 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 10 miles on the leading line. 

Note. —An old light tower, with a dwelling attached, is situated 
near these masts, but no light is shown from it. The positions of the 
leading lights are altered as necessary to suit the channel. 

Channel. —A lantern on a mast with a white shed at its base, on 
the western end of south beach, exhibits at 27 feet above high water a 
fixed Avhite light, that should be seen on the leading line, in clear 
weather, a distance of 5 miles. 

A lantern on a mast, with a white shed at its base, exhibits at 32 
feet above high water a fixed white light, that should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 5 miles on the leading line. 

These light are shifted as necessary to suit the channel. 

Buoy. —A black bell-buoy is moored in 5 fathoms, with the bar 
range light masts in line and at 1 mile from the front mast. 

Anchorage. —There is open anchorage off the bar in 9 fathoms, 
fine, brown and gray sand, which affords far better holding ground 
than there is nearer the shore. 

Pilots. —The branch pilots of Richibucto river are able, and* from 
the beach at the mouth of the river they keep a good lookout for 
vessels. 

Directions. —The bar may be safely approached from seaward to 
the depth of 6 fathoms at any time of tide. 

To enter the river a pilot is absolutely necessary, since the bar is 
subject to change. The following directions are approximate: 

Approach with the bar range light masts in line and steer on the 
range for the black bell-buoy at the entrance to the channel over the 


186 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 


bar. Keep this mark on until the light masts on the western end of 
tlie south beach are in line. These light masts are then kept in line 
for a distance of § mile, when the first black spar buoy is reached. 
From this point to the town the channel is tortuous and is marked 
by buoys. The channel through the reef and Jib Sheet shoals, as 
the turn northward of the channel range light masts is locally called, 
has been dredged to a depth of 13 feet for a width of 100 feet. 

Caution.— Entering the river with the flood is attended with no 
other difficulty than that arising from the narrowness of the channel, 
but to a large, deep, and dull sailing vessel outward bound, the bar is 
dangerous. As she leaves at high water of the highest springs, if the 
wind becomes unsteady or light, she is almost certain to be drifted 
ashore by the ebb stream on the southeastern part of the bar; and 
should a northeasterly gale then occur, she is liable to become a total 
wreck. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Richibucto river at 
3h. 30m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 24 feet. 

On the day of the full moon, in July. 1839, there Avas only one 
high water, at 3h. 30m. a. m.. and one low water, at 4 p. m. But 
toward the time of neap tides, two high waters in 24 hours became 
apparent for a few days; this is caused by the two interfering tide 
waves. 

The rate of the tidal streams in the river is 14 to 2 knots. 

Richibucto town, situated on the left bank of the river, 3 to 4 
miles above its entrance, is the capital town of the county of Kent, 
and contains a church, chapel, court-house, etc. There is a chapel 
on Hughes point, 1J miles above the town, and opposite it, on the 
right (southern) bank of the river, is Jardines wharf, together with a 
village of Micmac Indians who are employed as laborers and choppers. 
A highway bridge which has a central span of 308 feet crosses the river 
between Hughes point and Jardines wharf. There is a station of 
the Kent Northern railway at Kicliibucto. 

The town of Rexton. with about 1,000 inhabitants, is situated on 
the right bank of the river about 3 miles above Richibucto town. It 
has a wharf which is immediately above the highway bridge. 

Kouchibouguac bay, which lies between Richibucto point, the 
southeastern end of south beach, and point Sapin, bearing 349°, 174 
miles from the former, runs in 54 miles. The shores of the bay are 
very low, with sand bars and beaches, inclosing extensive and shallow 
lagoons, through which the rivers flow to the sea. Shoal water, with 
depths of less than 3 fathoms, extends a considerable distance off¬ 
shore in the northwestern part of this bay; and foul ground, with 
as little as 3 fathoms water, extends more than 2 miles eastward from 
the mouth of Kouchibouguac river. As northeasterly gales send a 


BLACK LANDS GULLY-KOUCHTBOUGUAC RIVER. 187 

heavy swell into the bay, it will be dangerous for one to get embayed 
there, especially at night, or in a dull sailing vessel. 

Black Lands gully—Fishing lights. —At Black Lands gully 
(Big cove), situated 3 miles northwestward of the southern end of 
Richibucto north beach, two fixed white lights are exhibited from 
white masts on the north sand beach, 44 yards apart, 293° and 113°, 
when fishing operations are being carried on. The front light is 29 
feet above high water, and should be seen a distance of 10 miles; the 
rear light is 42 feet above high water and should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 11 miles. Both lights are visible from all 
points of approach by water. 

The best channel into the gully carries 54 feet at low water, and 
is marked bv a red cask buoy on the southeastern end of the shoal 
extending east-southeastward from the north sand beach; the inner 
edge of this shoal being marked by four red spar buoys. Opposite 
the red cask buoy is a black spar marking the inner edge of the chan¬ 
nel, which closely follows the configuration of the south sands. Fish¬ 
ing boats entering the gully keep southward of the red cask buoy, 
and steer 259° until past the outer red spar, thence the light masts 
or their lights in line 313° lead up to the gully. 

Koucbibouguacsis river has a course of 40 to 50 miles, but 
above the point reached by the tide becomes rapid, shallow, and con¬ 
sequently unnavigable. On its banks it has saw and grist mills, and 
settlements of Acadian French. Of its two outlets through the sand 
bars, the northern, 3 miles northward of Black Lands gully, is suit¬ 
able only for boats, as the channel through the lagoon leading to it 
is nearly filled up with sand and weeds. 

The river, after entering the lagoon, and running for some distance 
toward the northern outlet, turns southward, and continues its course 
within the sand bar to Black Lands gully (Big cove), the southern 
and main outlet. There are 3 fathoms water just within the sand 
bars, 1 to 3 fathoms through the lagoon, and 2 to 3 fathoms for 
several miles up the river. At high water boats can pass through 
the lagoons and within the sand bars, not only southward to Richi¬ 
bucto, but northward nearly to Marsh river, a total distance of 
nearly 15 miles. 

Kouchibouguac river, after flowing for more than a mile through 
an extensive lagoon, nearly dry at low water springs, enters the sea 
by an outlet through sand bars about 3 miles northward of the north¬ 
ern outlet of Kouchibouguacsis river. Its bar of sand frequently 
shifts during heavy easterly gales, and the channel is at all times nar¬ 
row and intricate. A depth of 9 feet at high water springs could be 
carried in over the bar at the time of the survey. 


188 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT-WEST SHORE. 


The banks of the river are well settled, and the village of St. Louis, 
which is connected with Richibucto by railway, is situated on its 
right bank about 7 miles northwestward of Richibucto. 

Tides. —It was high water, full and change, in July, at about 4 a. m., 
but the diurnal inequality of the two interfering tides caused the 
p. m. tide nearly to disappear. The tides rise 2J to 4 feet, flowing 
about 8 miles up the river, and affording a depth of 2 to 3 fathoms 
through a very narrow and crooked channel, for a distance of 5 miles 
in from the bar. 

Sapin ledge, of sandstone and with 12 feet least water, is 1J miles 
long, east-northeast and west-southwest, and about -J mile wide, be¬ 
tween the depths of 3 fathoms. Its eastern end bears 98°, 24 miles 
from point Sapin and 164°, 6 miles from Escuminac Point lighthouse. 
There is a depth of 34 fathoms between the ledge and Sapin point, 
and the 5-fathom curve of soundings is distant only about 400 yards 
from the ledge, which should not be approached nearer than the 
depth of 9 fathoms. 

Settlement—Fishing light.— A lantern on a white pole, 34 feet 
high, with a white shed at its base, 50 feet within the edge of the cliff 
which forms the shore at the settlement of point Sapin, exhibits, at 
50 feet above high water, a fixed white light, that should be seen sea¬ 
wards in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. The light is exhibited 
only when fishing operations are being conducted in the vicinity. 

The pole carrying the light is situated between Messrs. Loggie^s 
lobster factory and the Roman Catholic church, or about midway be¬ 
tween point Sapin and Mushroul point. The church, which is con¬ 
spicuous, is on the point next northeastward of Mushroul point, and 
Loggie’s factory is on the point between the church and point Sapin. 

Fishing boats can run for the light when bearing between 248° and 
338°. The former bearing clears the southern end of Sapin ledge; 
the latter bearing clears a reef about 300 yards southward of the light. 
Within this arc of 90°, boats, when distant 100 yards from the shore, 
can run southwestward under the reef to good anchorage in 8 to 12 
feet water. 

The coast, which from point Sapin trends northward for 44 miles 
to Escuminac river and thence northeastward 14 miles to Escuminac 
point, is low and shallow. 

Escuminac point. (See p. 245.) 


CHAPTER V. 


NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT, NORTH AND EAST SHORES— 
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

Variation in 1908. 

Cape Bear-23° 30' W. North point_24° 00' W. 

West point-23° .10' W. East point_24° 20' W. 

General Description Prince Edavard Island. 

Prince Edward island, the southern and Western coasts of which 
form the northern and eastern shores of Northumberland strait, is 
rendered very irregular by large bays, inlets, and rivers, which pene¬ 
trate the island so that, although its greatest length is 102 miles, 
and the breadth of its eastern part 30 miles, still no part of the 
island is distant more than T or 8 miles from navigable water. 
The shape of the island is that of an irregular crescent, concave 
toward the gulf, the*northern coast forming a great bay, 91 miles 
long and 22 miles deep, out of which the set of the tides and the 
heavy sea render it very difficult to extricate a ship when caught in 
the northeasterly gales. These gales frequently occur toward the fall 
of the year, occasionally blowing Avith great strength, Avhen they 
pro\ r e fatal to many A T essels. 

The island is undulating, its highest part not exceeding 500 feet 
above the sea; it is in general much lower, especially near the coast, 
and the alternation of hill and dale with rivulet forms very pleasing 
scenery. The island is based on permo-carboniferous and triassic 
rocks affording a red and very fertile soil, much of which is under 
cultivation. Cliffs of red sandstone prevail on the coasts, except on 
the northern coast aa here long ranges of sand hills and sand bars have 
been thrown up by the sea. 

Prince Edward island is a province of the Dominion of Canada, 
but has a provincial government for administering local affairs. The 
area of the island is 2,133 square miles, and its population, in 1901, 
was 103,258. 

Charlottetown, the capital, had, in 1901, a population of 12,080; 
the other principal towns are Georgetown, Summerside, and Souris. 

Products and trade. —The inhabitants, except on the northern 
coast, Avhere they devote a great deal of attention to the fisheries, are 

189 







190 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


almost exclusively engaged in agriculture and the breeding of horses 
and sheep. 

The exports of the island consist principally of agricultural prod¬ 
uce, small quantities of lumber, and preserved or canned fish and 
meat. 

Climate.—The climate of the island is less severe than that of the 
neighboring provinces; not quite so cold in winter nor so hot in sum¬ 
mer, being tempered by the sea breezes. On the other hand the ad¬ 
vance of spring is checked bv the northerly winds which drive ice 
down from the gulf, so that Northumberland strait is sometimes 
filled with ice as late as the middle of May, and not only is the out¬ 
break of vegetable life frequently retarded until June is well ad¬ 
vanced. but also there is seldom any settled warm weather before 
July. 

Fogs.—What was said about fogs in Northumberland strait applies 
here. 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, SOUTH COAST-NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT, NORTH 

SHORE. 

Cape Bear, the eastern point of the southern coast of Prince Ed¬ 
ward* island, has a large rock, 12 feet high, close under its cliffs of 
red sandstone. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 46 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on Cape Bear headland, exhibits at 74 feet above high water 
a revolving red light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 30 
seconds, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Wireless telegraph. —There is a wireless station at Cape Bear 
lighthouse whose call letter is BE; but it is in operation only during 
the winter months for communication with steamers crossing from 
Prince Edward island to the mainland and is not available for com¬ 
mercial purposes. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Cape Bear at 9h. 0m.; 
springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Bear reef. — (See page 218.) 

Fisherman’s bank. — (See page 218.) 

The coast of the island to the westward of cape Bear to White 
sands is formed of sandstone cliffs, which are in some places 40 feet 
high, without beach or landing, except at Guernsey cove, and from 
which shallow water does not extend beyond 700 yards. 

Black Rock point, 1,200 yards westward of cape Bear, has a rock 
7 feet high close off it. 

Guernsey point, the western point of Guernsey cove, H miles 
westward of Black rock, also has a rock above water close off it. 


WOOD ISLAND. 


191 


White Sands settlement, named from the sandy beach of a small 
bay, is about 1J miles westward of Guernsey point. At the settle¬ 
ment is a sand spit, which is just covered at low water, and affords 
some shelter to boats, and there is also a sandy shoal extending \ mile 
offshore. The edge of this shoal is so steep, and the water near it so 
deep, that the lead gives no warning. 

Clearing mark. —Black Rock point (the extreme to the eastward) 
open southward of Guernsey point leads southward of the shoal. 

The coast from White sands to Little sands, 234° 6 miles, is com¬ 
posed of sandstone cliffs 40 to 50 feet high, and quite bold. 

Wood island, about 262°, 3 miles from Little sands, was two 
small islands, partly covered with wood, but now connected 
together by sand bars. It is about 1,400 yards long, parallel 
to the shore, from which it is distant 4 mile, and its eastern part is 
about 50 feet high: it presents sandstone cliffs to seaward, arid its 
western end is connected to the main island by a long Sand bar. 

A sand spit extends from the main coast to within 300 feet of the 
eastern part of the island. 

The space between the island, the connecting beaches and the 
shore, forms a shallow boat harbor having an area of about 300 acres, 
with its entrance to the eastward, but it is nearly all dry at low water. 
A shipping place has been constructed here, with two breakwaters, 
the southern 950 feet long, and the northern 2,500 feet. 

Shallow water,of less than 5 fathoms extends nearly a mile south¬ 
ward from the island. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 40 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on the southern side of the eastern part of WoocP island, 
exhibits at 80 feet above high water a fixed white light, which should, 
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

Range lights. —A square white lighthouse, 19 feet high, 50 feet 
from the outer end of the southern breakwater, exhibits at 18 feet 
above high water a fixed red light, visible, in clear weather, from 
all directions seaward a distance of 6 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 33 feet high, on the beach 252°, 233 
yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 33 feet above high 
water a fixed red light, that is visible, in clear weather, on the range 
line, a distance of 7 miles. 

These two lights in line 252°, lead in to the inner face of the south 
breakwater, and the entrance to the boat harbor. 

Beacon. —A w T hite beacon, consisting of a diamond shaped top- 
mark on a spar, stands on the western end of Wood island, 833 yards 
269° from the main lighthouse. 

This beacon, kept in one with Wood Island main lighthouse, leads 
through the inside passage between Indian rocks and Rifleman reef: 


192 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


on the range the least water is 5 fathoms. Seamen using this pas¬ 
sage must be careful to give Wood island a berth of at least \ mile; 
but strangers should not attempt the passage without a pilot, because 
a round sand bank lies just to the northward of the range about half 
way through; and the range is really for the use of local shipping. 

Buoy.—A spar buoy, painted black and white in horizontal bands, 
is moored in 9 feet of water at 79°, 200 yards from the front range 
lighthouse. It marks the deepest water in a new channel formed by 
the extension of the southern breakwater changing the direction of 
the outgoing stream (1902). 

Directions.—In entering the boat harbor, keep the buoy bearing 
337° until the range lighthouses are in line, when steer for them and 
so in to the inner face of the southern breakwater, along which the 
best water will be found; but no attempt should be made to pass 
the front lighthouse at low tides. Once alongside the southern 
breakwater, vessels are safe in ordinary w T eather The bottom of the 
channel is hard sand free from rocks or any other dangers to vessels 
taking the ground; but local knowledge is necessary. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage in northwesterly winds off 
the coast anywhere within 1 mile eastward of Wood island, in 3 to 9 
fathoms, Indian rocks breaking the sea. 

Bell point, 283°, 3| miles from Wood Island lighthouse, is a cliff 
of sandstone 40 feet in height. 

Bell Point reef, having a least depth of 6 feet, and the western 
end of which lies south-southwestward f mile from Bell point, ex¬ 
tends thence eastward about 1 mile. Shallow water extends south¬ 
ward 1 mile from the point to the 3-fathom curve, which has 9 to 10 
fathoms close to its edge, but the shallow water continues westward 
to Rifleman reef. 

Indian rocks, which occup}^ a space parallel to the coast between 
Wood island and Bell point, 11 miles in length, and 1 mile in breadth, 
between depths of 3 fathoms, are of sandstone, dry to a considerable 
extent at low water, and their southern edge is 1J miles offshore. 
There is deep water close southward of these rocks, but there are 
almost always breakers or a rippling on the part which dries. 

Caution.—In standing toward the rocks at night, if Wood Island 
light is not visible, observe that there are 10 fathoms within i mile 
of their southern edge: that 13 fathoms is near enough to approach 
their southeastern end. and 10 fathoms their southwestern end; do 
not get between the latter and Bell Point reef, where there are also 
10 fathoms. 

Leading marks.—The southeastern point of Wood island bear¬ 
ing northward of 45°. leads southeastward of their southeastern 


RIFLEMAN REEF. 


193 


end; Macdougal and Pinette points in line, bearing 321°, leads west¬ 
ward of their western end; but Pinette point, the southern entrance 
point of Pinette harbor, can not always be distinguished. 

The channel between Indian rocks and the land is over ^ mile 
wide, with depths of 4 to 9 fathoms water, but as the soundings are 
irregular, with rock or gravel bottom, and the tidal streams are 
strong, it should not be used for navigation except bv small craft 
with local knowledge. (See paragraph above under Beacon.) 

Buoys.—The north side of this channel is marked by a red spar 
buoy in 3f fathoms off the southwestern end of Wood island, and a 
red spar buoy in 13 feet water off Kenneth bank. 

An automatic whistling buoy is moored in 10 fathoms southwest- 
ward of Indian rocks, with Wood Island lighthouse bearing 54°, dis¬ 
tant 41 miles. The whistle may not sound when the sea is smooth. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, 
at Indian rocks at 9h. 45m. nearly; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet. 
The tidal streams in the deep water close outside Indian rocks fre¬ 
quently run at the rate of 3 knots an hour. 

Rifleman reef, of sandstone, extends 2 miles westward from 
Stewart point, which bears 287°, 1.1 miles from Bell point; and from 
the outer point of the reef, in 3 fathoms, Prim point bears 309° 8 
miles. Just within the outer point of the reef there are 8 feet water, 
and halfway between it and the shore only 5 feet, while there are 
depths of 12 feet at low water between other shallow patches on the 
reef. 

Buoy.—A red conical buoy, with “ Rifleman reef ” on it in white 
letters, is moored in 15 fathoms water off the southwestern point of 
Rifleman reef, with Prim Point lighthouse bearing 314°, distant 8 
miles. 

Caution.—The very irregular soundings off Rifleman reef, and the 
deep water close to it (there being a depth of 16 fathoms within less 
than ^ mile, while there is a much less depth farther out), render 
caution necessary when navigating in its vicinity. The position can 
then be obtained by bearings of Wood Island and Prim Point light¬ 
houses or lights, and sometimes by the whistling buoy off Indian 
rocks. There are no leading marks to clear its western end, which has 
7 fathoms close-to, but the soundings give better warning there than 
farther southward. The wooded point, within and opposite Wood 
island, in line with Black point, the extreme to the eastward, bearing 
90°, just clears the southern side of the reef; but the safest plan, 
when approaching it from the southward, is not to close the reef 
nearer than the extreme of the land to the eastward in line with the 
northern side of Wood island, bearing 82°, which line leads 1J miles 


50918—08-13 


194 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


from the reef. If Prim Point light is visible it should not be 
brought to bear to the westward of 315°. 

If the lights are obscured, close attention must be given to the 
soundings. When standing across from the southward toward the 
reef, the soundings, after being 11 to 9 fathoms for some 4 miles, 
suddenly increase to 14 to 16 fathoms; this deep water is less than a 
mile from the reef, and the depth of 10 fathoms on its northern side 
is only 600 yards from the reef. 

Directions for Wood Island channel.—Approaching from the 
westward, first make Rifleman Reef buoy, leave it on the port hand, 
and then steer 90° direct for Wood Island main lighthouse until 4 
fathoms is struck at 270° from the light; then steer for the red spar 
buoy off Wood island, and leave it 200 yards on the port hand. These 
courses will lead inside Indian rocks in not less than 4 fathoms. 

Flat river, which is suitable only for boats, is 2J miles north¬ 
westward of Stewart point. Shallow water runs 1 mile off Macdougal 
point, which is the southeastern entrance point of the river. 

Pinette harbor, 3J miles northwestward of Flat river, has only 
2 feet at low water over its rocky and dangerous bar, which is nearly 
1 mile outside the entrance to the harbor. It is therefore suitable only 
for small craft, although it has 3 to 4-1 fathoms in its narrow channel, 
which runs in 2 to 3 miles through flats of mud and w r eeds, dry at 
low water, and then divides into several shallow branches. 

Pinette shoals.—The outer point of these shoals, in 3 fathoms, 
lies soutliwestward 2 miles from Pinette point; there are 9 feet water 
just within their outer point, and 3 feet at no great distance, the bot¬ 
tom being rock. These shoals should not be approached nearer than 
the low water depth of 6 fathoms. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Pinette at lOh. 0m.; 
springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. 

Hillsborough bay, containing the principal harbor and the capi¬ 
tal town, and being the outlet of an extensive inland navigation, is 
the most important, as well as the largest, bay in Prince Edward 
island. Its entrance lies between Prim point and St. Peters island, 
the island bearing 300°, 7J miles from the point. 

Prim point, the southeastern point of Hillsborough bay, is low, 
with sandstone cliffs 10 to 15 feet high. Prim island, distant 1J miles 
northeastward from the point, also has low cliffs and is united to the 
northern side of Prim Point peninsula by sand beaches inclosing 
marshy ponds. 

Light.—A circular white lighthouse, 55 feet high, with a dwelling 
near it, situated 100 yards within Prim point, exhibits, at 68 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 12 miles. 


ORWELL BAY. 


195 


Prim reefs, of sandstone, run westward, both from the island and 
the point, so as to form a forked reef, with very uneven soundings; its 
western end, in 3 fathoms, bears 273°, 2 miles from the lighthouse, 
and the end of the southwestern part 304°, 1J miles; but shoal water to 
depths of less than 5 fathoms extends 3 miles from the point. 

Buoy.—A red bell buoy, with “ Point Prim Reef ” in white letters 
on the deck, is moored off the 3 fathoms end of Prim reef, and lies 
with Prim Point lighthouse bearing approximately 91° distant 2.2 
miles. 

Clearing mark.—The Scotch church spire, in line with Block¬ 
house point 357°, leads in deep water westward of Prim reef. 

Orwell bay, leading to Orwell, Vernon, and Seal rivers, is 2 miles 
wide at its entrance between Gallows and Buchanan points, Buch¬ 
anan point being on the southern shore at 5 miles east-northeastward 
of Prim point and Gallows point bearing from Buchanan point 329°, 
2 miles. From Prim island eastward the shallow water increases 
its distance from the shore until it stretches nearly halfway across 
the mouth of Orwell bay. Its edge, in 3 fathoms northwestward of 
Buchanan point, is 1^ miles out from the cliffs to the southward, and 
close southward of this edge is a rock, with 9 feet least water, which 
bears 281° a little more than 1 mile from Buchanan point. Between 
these shoals and those which stretch southward from Gallows point 
the channel is 800 yards wide and carries nearly 5 ‘fathoms water, 
becoming shallower and narrower within the bay, until off Maclnnis 
point, 1J miles within the entrance and on the northern shore, it sud¬ 
denly contracts to less than 200 yards in breadth, and decreases in 
depth to 14 feet at low water springs. This is the bar, and the chan¬ 
nel becomes only a little wider within, the depth increasing to 7 fath¬ 
oms between steep shoals on either side. 

Just within China point, on the northern shore, and 2 miles within 
the bar, is the confluence of Orwell and Vernon rivers, and there ves¬ 
sels may lie land locked, the channel being 170 yards wide and carry¬ 
ing 5 fathoms water between mud flats dry at Ioav tide. China point 
pier, on the eastern side of China point, extends into a depth of 14 
feet at low water. Vessels ascend more than a mile up Orwell and 
Vernon rivers, but both rivers are obstructed with oyster beds at 1J 
miles from China point, and their channels higher up become very 
shallow and narrow, Orwell river being quite dry at low water, as is 
also Seal river, which enters Vernon river from the northward. 

Belfast pier extends 600 feet from the southern shore of the bay 
about 1 mile from Eldon village into a depth of 4 feet at low water. 

Douse Point range lights.—A square white lighthouse, with 
sloping sides, 16 feet high, on Douse point, the point northward of 
Muttock point, exhibits, at 16 feet above high water, a fixed red light, 


196 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


which should be seen, in clear weather, when in alignment with the 
following light, a distance of 6 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, 22 feet high, situated 38°, 436 yards from the 
preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 28 feet above high water, a fixed 
red light, which should be seen, in clear weather, when in alignment 
with the preceding light, a distance of 6 miles. 

These lights in line 38° lead from mid-channel between Maclnnis 
and Belfast points, across the bar and nearly up to the black beacon 
off China point. 

Brush Wharf range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 15 feet 
high, on the western side of Brush wharf, exhibits, at 18 feet above 
high water, a fixed green light, which should be seen, in clear weather, 
when in alignment with the following light, a distance of 2 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, on the left bank of Orwell river 75°, 158 
yards from the preceding light, exhibits, at 27 feet above high water, 
a fixed green light, which should be seen, in clear weather, when in 
alignment with the preceding light, a distance of 2 miles. 

These lights in line 75° lead from the red beacon on Douse point 
to Brush wharf. 

Beacons.—A black beacon marks the edge of the bank off China 
point; and a red beacon marks the edge of the shoal off Douse point, 
at the junction of Orwell and Vernon rivers. 

Buoys.—Three black cask buoys are moored in the channel on the 
range line of Douse Point lights; the first is nearly midway between 
Belfast and Maclnnis points, the other two are about 1,400 yards and 
2,600 yards, respectively, nearer Douse point. 

Directions.—To enter Orwell bay and Orwell river, after round¬ 
ing Prim Reef bell-buoy, bring Prim Point lighthouse to bear 127° 
distant 2.4 miles, and the west tangent of Governor island to bear 
9°, then steer between the shoals, 70°, keeping the lead going, and 
bring Douse Point Range lighthouses in line, 38°, between Belfast and 
Maclnnis points, where mid-channel is marked by a cask buoy. Keep 
this range on until the black beacon and the clump of spruce bushes 
on China point are.abeam on the port hand. Then steer 354° until 
the red beacon on Douse point has been passed on the starboard hand, 
and Brush wharf range lighthouses are in line, 75°, then steer on 
that range to the wharf. 

Brush wharf, or Port Selkirk wharf, which is situated on the 
southeastern side of Orwell river near its entrance into Orwell bay, 
is 250 feet long and has a depth of about 8 feet at its outer end at low 
water. 

Gallows point, at the end of a peninsula separating Pownell and 
Orwell bays, has off it a long reef of sandstone and extensive shoals, 
on which are scattered rocks covered with only a few feet water. 


POWNELL BAY—FITZROY ROCK. 


197 


These shoals extend 2 miles toward Governor island, and also a little 
more than 1 mile toward Prim point. There is, moreover, a de¬ 
tached shoal, with 13 feet least water, bearing 254°, 2 miles from 
Gallows point. 

Pownell bay, which is shallow and open to westerly winds, affords 
shelter to small craft and boats near its head, which dries extensively 
at low water. A pier, 753 feet in length, runs out from the shore of 
this bay, and a channel, 50 feet wide, has been dredged to a depth of 
t) feet at low water from the deeper water in and through the bay to 
its head. 

Caution.—The eastern part of Hillsborough bay is but little fre¬ 
quented by shipping; it abounds with shoals, and the services of a 
pilot are indispensable for its navigation. 

Anchorage.—Northeastward of Governor island, under shelter of 
the shoal at its eastern point, and off the mouth of the shallow Squaw 
bay, which lies westward of Pownell peninsula, there is good anchor¬ 
age for small vessels in 9 to 12 feet, mud bottom. 

Governor island, in Hillsborough bay 352°, nearly 5 miles from 
Prim point, is low, in great part wooded, based upon sandstone and 
has shoals around it on all sides. 

Governor shoals, of sandstone, extend southwestward and west¬ 
ward from the western end of the island. The reef dries at low water 
for ^ mile westward, and has depths of less than 3 fathoms, with 
uneven bottom, for 2 miles from the island. Huntley and Fitzroy 
rocks are also on these shoals. 

Huntley rock, on the southwestern part of Governor shoals and 
situated 1.7 miles south-southwestward of the southern end of Gov¬ 
ernor island, has 12 feet water over it at low tide; other patches, with 
17 to 22 feet water, extend out 2J miles, and the south-southwestern 
end of Governor shoals in 5 fathoms is distant 3J miles from the 
island. 

Fitzroy rock, with 20 feet least water, lies 239°, 1.8 miles from 
the northwestern end of Governor island, and approximately with the 
northwestern point of that island in line with Pownell point. 

Light and whistling buoy.—A red whistling buoy, showing an 
intermittent white light, is moored 350 yards south-southwestward 
of the shoalest part of Fitzroy rock. 

Clearing mark.—The Scotch church spire at Charlottetown open 
of Battery point, bearing 353°, clears the western side of Governor 
shoals, and just clears well the western end of the shoal water around 
Fitzroy rock. 

Shallow water continues on the eastern side of the channel into 
Charlottetown harbor, northward of Governor island, to Sea Trout 


198 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—SOUTH COAST. 


point at the entrance of the harbor, there being only a passage for 
boats or small craft between Governor island and the land northeast¬ 
ward of it. 

Eastern bank.—The edge of the bank, in 5 fathoms, runs north- 
northwestward from abreast Spithead buoy to Sea Trout point; con¬ 
sequently parallel, in this part, to the bank on the opposite sijie, 
leaving a channel with 7 to 12 fathoms water, and 600 yards wide 
between depths of 5 fathoms, or 4 mile wide between depths of 3 
fathoms. 

Squaw shoal, with 10 feet least water, approaches close to the edge 
of the bank, where it is steepest. 

Leading mark.—Battery and Sea Trout points in line, bearing 
337°, leads along the edge of the bank, in 4J fathoms least water, from 
abreast Spithead buoy on the western side to near Sea Trout point. 
Small vessels bring this range on when the northern point of Gov¬ 
ernor island and Gallows point are touching, southward of which 
range it leads over the reef off the western end of the island. Large 
vessels had better not bring it on until at its intersection with the 
Haszard Point range lights. 

Haszard Point range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 47 feet 
high, with a brown lantern on Haszard point, at about 1.8 miles east¬ 
ward of Charlottetown harbor entrance, exhibits, at 45 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, 
on, and over a small arc on each side of, the range line, a distance 
of 12 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, situated 20°, 748 yards from the preceding 
lighthouse and in rear of Bellevue farm buildings, exhibits, at 125 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in 
clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side of, the range line, 
a distance of 17 miles. These lights in line lead through Hillsborough 
bay, clear of all dangers to the intersection of their range line with 
that of the Brighton Beach range lights. 

St. Peters island, lying off the western point of entrance to Hills¬ 
borough bay, is rather more than 3 miles around, and of very moder¬ 
ate height, having cliffs of red clay and sandstone, 35 feet high, 
along its eastern shore. There are several farms on either side, but 
the central parts of the island are thickly wooded. It is joined to 
Bice point, the western point of the bay, from which it is distant 1J 
miles, by sands dry at low water. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 38 feet high, on the southern 
side of St, Peters island, exhibits, at 70 feet above high water, an 
intermittent white light every 36 seconds, thus: Light, 30 seconds; 
eclipse, 6 seconds; which should be seen from 240° through west, 
north, and east to 123°, where obscured by the high land of St. Peters 
island, in clear weather, a distance of 14 miles. 


ST. PETERS SHOALS-CHARLOTTETOWN HARBOR. 199 

St. Peters shoals.—Shallow water extends 1J miles southwest- 
ward and southward from St. Peters island. Farther eastward St. 
Peters shoals are much more extensive, stretching out northeastward 
3£ miles from the northeastern point of the island; and the bottom 
is very uneven along the outer edge of all these shoals. St. Peters 
spit, of sand, dries out for 2 miles northeastward of the island, and 
affords shelter to St. Peters road, northward of it, which is suitable 
only for small vessels, having 9 to 12 feet at low water. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy marked “ St. Peters island SW. reef,” 
is moored in 4J fathoms water on the shoal extending southwestward 
from St. Peters island, with the western point of that island bearing 
36°, distant 14 miles. 

Spithead, a rocky shoal, with 8 feet least water, lies eastward of 
St. Peters spit, and extends to within J mile of the eastern end of St. 
Peters shoals. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy is moored in 5 fathoms on the eastern 
end of St. Peters shoals, 790 yards eastward of Spithead. 

Western bank.—The 5 fathoms edge of the bank forming the 
western side of the channel into Charlottetown harbor, trends north- 
northwestward 2.4 miles from Spithead buoy to about 200 yards off 
Blockhouse point, at the entrance of the harbor. The edge of St. 
Peters shoals may be followed by the lead in 5 fathoms as far in 
as Spithead buoy, after which the bank becomes steep, and must be 
approached with caution in a large vessel. 

Trout rock, with 7 feet least water, lies 400 yards within the edge 
of the bank, and 175°, 1,200 yards from Blockhouse point, which, in 
line with Government house, bearing 353°. leads eastward of the 
rock in about 14 feet water. 

Charlottetown harbor entrance, between Sea Trout and Block¬ 
house points, is 900 yards wide, but shallow water extending from 
both shores reduces the navigable width of the channel, which has a 
depth of 7 to 13 fathoms between the shoals, to about 450 yards, and 
the shoals on each side are very steep. The land on both sides is 
formed of red sandstone cliffs, from 10 to 30 feet high, whence it rises 
gradually in undulations, being partly cultivated and partly wooded. 

Battery point is nearly 1 mile north-northwestward of Sea Trout 
point; a shoal extends 400 yards southwestward from it. 

Buoy.—A red conical buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the outer end 
of the shoal extending from Battery point. 

Leading mark.—The belfry of St. Dunstan Roman Catholic Col¬ 
lege in line with the flagstaff at Government house leads 120 yards 
westward of the shoal off Battery point in 10 fathoms. 

Blockhouse point is the western entrance point, and the next 
point of cliff to the northward is Alchorn point, 500 yards west- 


200 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


northwestward of which, on the hill, 93 feet above high water, are 
the remains of Amherst fort, now showing as a conspicuous clump of 
trees. On the same side, northward of Alchorn point, is Warren 
cove, and, at a distance of 1J miles from the lighthouse, Canseau 
point. A ferry pier extends about 100 yards off Blockhouse point, 
and its end dries at low water. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 42 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on Blockhouse point, exhibits, at 56 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance 
of 12 miles. 

Canseau spit extends 700 yards off Canseau point: Blockhouse 
lighthouse just open clear of Alchorn point leads eastward of it; 
observing that the ends of the cliffs of Blockhouse and Alchorn points 
in line lead over the point of the shoal in 16 feet at low water. The 
Brighton Beach range lights in line lead to the eastward of the spit - 
in 19 feet at low water. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy is moored on the eastern end of Canseau 
spit. 

The harbor.—Immediately within Battery and Canseau points, 
the inner entrance points, the channel expands into the harbor, which 
is large and deep. York river flows into it from the north-northwest¬ 
ward, Hillsborough river from the northeastward, and Elliot river 
from the west-southwestward. The confluence of the streams of 
these three rivers, between Canseau spit and the mouth of York river, 
forms the Three Tides, where there is excellent anchorage; but the 
usual anchorage is off the wharves of the town, where the channel is 
550 yards wide, and carries 7 to 10 fathoms water. 

Hillsborough river is navigable for vessels of any draft for 7 
miles, and for small vessels for 14 miles, above Charlottetown, where 
there is a bridge 2 miles from the head of the river. There is a 
portage of less than 1 mile across from the Hillsborough near its 
head to Savage harbor on the north coast of Prince Edward Island. 

A railway drawbridge, resting on 11 piers, crosses the river \ mile 
above Ferry point, the ends of the bridge being connected with the 
shore by embankments from high water line to low water line. 

A telephone cable is laid across the river parallel to and about 200 
yards below the bridge. 

York river, the channel of which is narrow, is crossed by Poplar 
island bridge 2f miles from its mouth. 

Elliot river is navigable for 4 miles by large vessels .and for 9 
miles by small craft. 

The shores of all three rivers are settled, and the country is gen¬ 
erally fertile. 


CHARLOTTETOWN HARBOR. 


201 


Flats.—Within Charlottetown harbor flats of mud and weeds 
extend about 700 yards offshore. 

Buoys.—A black cask buoy is moored off Duchess point at 183° 
1,150 yards from Governor’s house flagstaff. This buoy is with¬ 
drawn in the winter. 

The edge of the bank to the northeastward of Battery point is 
marked by the following buoys: 

A red conical buoy, marked No. 1, in 32 feet of water 347°, 1,000 
yards from Battery point. 

A red spar buoy surmounted by a triangle situated 271°, 800 yards 
from Rosebank point. 

A red conical buoy in 24 feet of water 322°, 700 yards from Rose- 
bank point. 

A red spar buoy in 30 feet of water 339°, 150 yards from the north¬ 
eastern end of Ferry Point jetty. 

Middle ground, a patch with a least depth of 17 feet, is situated 
on the northern side of the harbor fairway 36°, nearly 1 mile from 
Canseau point. A black and red horizontally striped can buoy is 
moored 274°, 1,200 yards from Rosebank point on the southern edge 
of this shoal. 

Clearing mark.—The lunatic asylum, a conspicuous red brick 
building, with a tower, 600 yards westward of Falcon point, which is 
on the right bank of Hillsborough river 2 miles above Charlottetown, 
just open southeastward of the end of the railway wharf at Char¬ 
lottetown, bearing 36°, leads southeastward of Middle ground. 

Brighton Beach range lights.—A white skeleton tower, with a 
red diamond on its southern side and a red lantern, 40 feet high, on 
Brighton beach, on the eastern shore of York river, exhibits, at 41 
feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen in 
clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side of, the range 
line, a distance of 7 miles. 

A white square tower, with a red diamond on its southern side and 
a red lantern, 45 feet high, situated 237°, 425 yards from the preced¬ 
ing light, exhibits, at 72 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which 
should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side 
of, the range line, a distance of 9 miles. 

These lights are exhibited during the season of navigation, and 
whenever the winter steamer is running to Ch ar l°R e t° wn 5 and 
line 237° they lead from the intersection of their range line with that 
of Haszard Point range lights, to the intersection of their range line 
with that of the following range lights: 

Warren Farm range lights.—A white square tower, with a white 
square lantern, and 30 feet high, situated on the Warren farm, 
on summit of cliff, 220 yards, 324° from northeast angle of old 


202 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


Amherst fort, exhibits, at 39 feet above high water, a fixed red light, 
that should be seen, in clear weather, and on the range line, a dis¬ 
tance of 2 miles. 

A similar tower, situated 381 yards, 197° from the preceding tower, 
exhibits, at 57 feet above high water, a fixed red light, that should be 
seen on the range line, in clear weather, a distance of 2 miles. 

These lights in line 197° lead from the intersection of their range 
line with that of the Brighton Beach range lights to the wharves at 
Charlottetown. This, of course, is a back range. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, in 
Charlottetown harbor at lOh. 45m.; springs rise 9^ feet, neaps 8 feet. 
The rise is considerably influenced by the wind, and during north¬ 
easterly gales the water has risen 11 feet at springs, and during south¬ 
westerly gales only 6 feet at neaps; these cases, however, are unusual. 
The range of neaps is sometimes less than 3 feet. The duration of 
the two tides is nearly equal, and the streams continue about £ hour 
after high and low water on the shore, running usually at the rate of 
If knots off the town, and 2J knots in the entrance of the harbor. 

There is considerable diurnal inequality in height of the tides 
which, however, principally affects low water level, consecutive high 
waters varying from 3 to 15 inches, and low waters from 3 inches to 
3J feet. One tide of the day may have a range of 7 feet and the 
other of only 3 feet. 

The rise of tide at Charlottetown is the greatest in the gulf below 
cape Chat, excepting at Campbellton. 

Tide tables for Charlottetown are published by the department 
of marine and fisheries of the Dominion of Canada, and by the 
United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. 

Note.— The observations on the tides were continued in Charlotte¬ 
town harbor hourly through 11 semilunations, with an accurate tide 
gauge, with the following results: 

The corrected establishment was lOh. 18m. The a. m. tide, how¬ 
ever, was lOh. 24m., and the p. m. tide llh. 7m., after the moon’s 
transit, the mean being lOh. 45m. The mean duration of the flood 
(by 294 observations) was 6h. 14m., and of the ebb 6h. 11m., the 
flood being rather the longer. The diurnal inequality in the heights 
of the alternate flood tides is here only slightly shown, but it may be 
plainly observed in the ebb tides, or in the difference of the levels to 
which the alternate tides descend. 

It is high water, full and change, at the head of Hillsborough river 
at llh. 0m.; springs rise 10 feet, neaps 8J feet. 

Ice.—Charlottetown harbor is usually frozen over about December 
21, and is clear of ice about April 7, being completely closed between 
those dates. The harbor has been clear of ice on April 1, and it has 
remained open until December 27. 


CHARLOTTETOWN HARBOR. 203 

The first vessel arrives from sea about April 26, and the last vessel 
leaves about December 20. 

Pilots.—There are no licensed pilots at Charlottetown. 

Caution—Buoys.—The buoys in Hillsborough bay and Charlotte¬ 
town harbor are frequently out of position, therefore the range 
marks and the lead should be used. 

Directions.—From the eastward steer for a position 257°, 5 miles 
from Prim Point lighthouse, and then bring the lighthouses on Has- 
zard point, or their lights, in line, 20°. Keep this range and steer in a 
depth of not less than 5 fathoms westward of Fitzroy Kock bell-buoy 
and toward the harbor channel, until Brighton Beach lighthouses, or 
their lights, are in line bearing 337°, guarding against the flood tidal 
stream which sets strongly into Orwell bay and over Governor shoals. 
Then steer through the harbor channel with the Brighton Beach range 
on until past Canseau spit, and the lunatic asylum is just open south¬ 
eastward of the railway wharf 33°; then keep this range on and steer 
in the fairway southeastward of Middle ground to the anchorage off 
the ferry pier on the town side. This is the best anchorage, and in the 
fall of the year it is advisable to moor with the anchors northeast and 
southwest. 

After having picked up the Brighton Beach range, the back range 
of Warren farm may be used thus: Steer as above, with the Brighton 
Beach range on until the Warren Farm range lights are in line; then 
steer up the harbor with that range on, until the lunatic asylum and 
railway wharf range is picked up. If bound to the anchorage, follow 
this last range as above. If going alongside the wharf, follow the 
Warren Farm range to the wharves. 

The Warren Farm range is much better for a heavy-draft, vessel 
from its intersection with the Brighton Beach range, because the lat¬ 
ter, if followed to its intersection with the lunatic asylum range, leads 
across the shoal water off Canseau spit through the low-water depth 
of 19 feet. 

In clear weather and when the below-mentioned range marks are 
visible, when southwestward of Prim reef, bring the thin spire of the 
Scotch church in line with Blockhouse point, bearing 357°, and follow 
this range until Haszard Point lighthouses are in line. 

As Haszard Point lighthouses in line leads rather close to Fitzroy 
rock, in a vessel of heavy draft edge to the northwestward while 
passing it; in such vessels also do not overshoot the line of Brighton 
Beach lighthouses, and in approaching Canseau spit keep Blockhouse 
Point lighthouse just open clear of Alchorn point till the harbor 
range comes on. If the Warren Farm range is used this last precau¬ 
tion is not necessary. 

In thick weather, from a position about H miles westward of the 
red buoy on the western end of Prim reef, and in not less than the low- 


204 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


water depth of 10 fathoms, steer 337° across the bay and strike sound¬ 
ings of 5 fathoms on the southern edge of the bank off St. Peters 
island; then follow the 5-fathom curve to the northeastward until 
about 1 mile above Fitzroy rock, and then anchor. 

From the westward bring the northwestern point of Governor 
island and Pownell point in line, bearing 59°, and keep this range on 
until the thin spire of the Scotch church is in line with Blockhouse 
point, bearing 337°, when steer 33°, allowing for the flood or ebb 
stream, as the case may be, until Haszard Point lighthouses are in 
line, when proceed as before directed. 

If the range marks can not be made out, follow the southern and 
eastern edge of St. Peters shoals in 5 fathoms up to Spithead buoy, 
and then proceed as before directed. If the weather is too thick to 
see the range lighthouses, anchor when 1 mile above Fitzroy Rock bell- 
buoy, as above directed, from the eastward. 

Caution is necessary when navigating from the buoy on the south¬ 
western shoals of St. Peters island to Fitzroy Rock bell-buoy, espe¬ 
cially during the flood or nortliwest-going stream, and when sound¬ 
ing remember the uneven bottom. 

When beating in make short boards off and on the edge of St. 
Peters shoals until more than 1 mile above Fitzroy rock; after which, 
in standing westward, tack when the western side of * Government 
house is in line with Battery point, 344°, until well within Spithead 
buoy; in standing eastward, tack when Battery and Sea Trout points 
are in line, 337°, until close off the entrance of the harbor. 

Caution.—A vessel of heavy draft could not safely beat in or out 
through the entrance without more buoys; and even in small vessels 
local knowledge is necessary, and the flawy and unsteady wind, 
which so commonly prevails there, must be guarded against. 

Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward island, is advan¬ 
tageously situated on the right bank of Hillsborough river, miles 
inside the harbor entrance, where deep water approaches nearest the 
shore. The city, which is laid out with spacious squares and wide 
streets at right angles to each other, contains eight churches, three 
banks, and numerous factories, and is well supplied with gas, electric 
light, and splendid waterworks; it has also three daily and six weekly 
newspapers. 

The provincial building, which occupies the middle of the public 
square, is flanked by the law courts and post-office, both of which 
are brick structures. The Market house, a large building of red 
sandstone, is situated westward of the post-office, while St. Paul’s 
church, also of red stone, with a spire, occupies, with the school, the 
eastern end of the square. The Presbjderian church, a handsome stone 
building with a tall spire, is situated at the northwestern end of the 


CHARLOTTETOWN. 


205 


town. A convent, built of brick with a small belfry at the top, is 
somewhat conspicuous from the harbor, but the Roman Catholic 
cathedral, a large stone building with two spires, is the most con¬ 
spicuous object from the harbor. Westward of the town, behind a 
large green lawn, stands Government house, nearly hidden by trees, 
but which may be distinguished by its colonnade and isolated posi¬ 
tion. Eastward, between it and the Presbyterian church, is one of 
the public schools, a large building of red brick, with a flagstaff. 
Victoria park, protected along the sea front by a wooden breast¬ 
work, is a large open space westward of Government house. The 
railway station is at the eastern end of the town, and may be known 
by the wharf in connection with it, on which stand large chocolate- 
colored warehouses. St. Dunstan college, a Roman Catholic seminary, 
stands on a hill 150 feet high, 1J miles northward of the town. 

In 1901 the population of the city was 12,080. 

No part of the city exceeds 50 feet above high water, but behind it, 
at the distance of 1J miles, the land rises gradually to the height of 
150 feet, and is well cultivated. 

Wharves.—There are several wharves of 300 to 500 feet in length, 
with an average depth of 15 feet water at their outer ends, where ves¬ 
sels lie. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Charlottetown. 

Tugs.—There are four tugs at Charlottetown. 

Coal.—About 13,500 tons of Pictou and Cape Breton coal are 
usually kept in stock, under sheds. Vessels coal alongside the 
wharves, or the coal can be taken off in a lighter, which contains 200 
tons; a tug can be hired if required. Five hundred tons can be put 
on board in bags or baskets in an ordinary day’s work, and 700 tons 
by working day and night. The weather does not interfere with 
coaling. 

Supplies.—Meat, vegetables, and bread are plentiful and good; 
and all kinds of other supplies may be obtained at Charlottetown. 
Good water in large quantities comes from standpipes on wharf, or 
from boats fitted as tanks. 

Repairs.—Small repairs can be made to machinery and boilers. 

There is an iron foundry, but heavy castings are obtained from 
New Glasgow. 

Communication.—The Prince Edward Island railway runs into 
Charlottetown. 

During the season of navigation a steamer runs to Pictou five 
days each week; a steamer running to and from Montreal and Pictou 
calls fortnightly each way, and steamers of the Plant line run be¬ 
tween Charlottetown and Boston twice a week each way, calling at 
Port Hawkesbury and Halifax. 


206 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—SOUTH COAST. 


Telegraph.—There is telegraphic communication with the tele¬ 
graph system of Prince Edward island and with those of Canada 
and the United States. 

Trade.—The exports are principally butter, cheese, potatoes, and 
other farm produce. 

Hospital.—Sick seamen are cared for in Charlottetown hospital. 

Quarantine.—Charlottetown is a minor quarantine station. 

The United States is represented by a consul and by a vice and 
deputy consul. 

The coast from St. Peters island to Marie head, a distance of 9 
miles west-northwestward, is straight and unbroken, and may be ap¬ 
proached by the lead to 5 fathoms water if one bears in mind that 
that depth is occasionally within 400 yards of shallow water, which 
extends in some places f mile offshore. 

Canoe cove, about 5 miles westward of St. Peters island, is a small 
indentation in the coast which, being protected by a reef extending 
from the point on its western side, affords fairly good shelter to 
boats, with northerly winds. An isolated breakwater is constructed 
at the entrance of the cove to shelter it from southerly to south¬ 
westerly winds. 

A reef also runs out nearly a mile from Marie head. 

Rice cove, If miles northwestward of Marie head, is nearly dry at 
low water, and is crossed by a bridge 1 mile from its entrance. 

Brockelsby head, 295°, 2J miles from Marie head, is the eastern 
point of the bay in which Crapaud road is situated, and is composed 
of clay cliffs, 15 feet high, based upon sandstone. A sandstone reef 
extends 1 mile southward from the head. 

Inman rock, with 4 feet water over it and 13 to 19 feet around it, 
lies near the outer part of the reef extending off Brockelsby head, and 
157°, 1,200 yards from the head. Large vessels should not approach 
the rock nearer than the low-water depth of 4£ fathoms. 

Crapaud road is a small but secure anchorage off the mouth of 
Brockelsby river, and between the eastern part of Try on shoals and 
the land. The anchorage space, for vessels of medium draft, in 12 
to 15 feet at low water, is about J mile long and 400 yards wide: 
but that for small craft, in 7 to 9 feet, -is more extensive, continuing 
nearly* 1 mile farther westward in a narrow channel or cove in the 
sands, which dry at low water. The entrance to this road, between 
the eastern point of Tryon shoals and the shallow water off the shore 
to the eastward, was 180 yards wide, and carried 9 feet at low-water 
spring tides, when it was surveyed, but the eastern end of the shoals 
is extending. 

Channel and basin.—A dredged channel, 50 feet wide, with a 
depth of feet in it, extends northward 700 yards, from 600 yards 


BROCKELSBY RIVER. 


207 


\ 


eastward of Paul bluff, which is nearly 2^ miles 301° from Brock- 
elsby head, to a dredged basin, having a depth of 8 feet, and which is 
300 yards in extent. 

Victoria.—The village of Victoria, which is on the northern side 
of this basin, being the outlet of a very fertile and well-tilled district, 
is the most important place of shipment after Summerside on the 
southwestern side of the island. It has a pier 486 feet long, with a 
depth of 9 feet at its end at low water. In summer a steamer plies 
weekly between Victoria and Charlottetown. 

From the village a bridge crosses Brockelsby river to Beacon point. 

Brockelsby river dries at low water, excepting a very narrow 
winding channel through mud flats, by which boats can ascend to the 
bridge 1J miles within its entrance. The land eastward of the river 
rises to the height of 250 feet, and the neighboring country is pleasing 
and well settled. 

Lights—Leard’s range.—A square white lighthouse, 38 feet high, 
with a red diamond on its southern side, on the western end of the 
bridge at the head of Crapaud basin, exhibits*, at 41 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather, from 
all directions seaward, a distance of 6 miles. 

A square, pyramidal, white, open-framed lighthouse, slatted toward 
the channel, 46 feet high, about J mile, 337° from the preceding light¬ 
house, exhibits, at 95 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side 
of, the range line, a distance of 8 miles. 

Wright’s range.—A lantern on a mast, 11 feet high, rising from 
a square shed, painted white, and surmounted by a triangular beacon, 
on the southern side of Paul bluff, exhibits, at 30 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 3 miles over a small arc in the direction of the range line. 

A square, white, open-framed tower, slatted on side facing range, 
with a red lantern, 27 feet high, situated on Wright’s farm 295°, 700 
yards from Paul Blulf light, exhibits, at 50 feet above high water, a 
fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over 
a small arc on each side of, the range line, a distance of 3 miles. 

Wharf range.—A light mast, 18 feet high, on Palmer’s wharf, 
180° 200 yards from the front Leard’s range light, exhibits, at 20 
feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 2 miles. This light in line with the front 
Leard’s range light, 0°, leads through the dredged channel to the 
wharves in the basin. 

Buoyage.—A red conical buoy is moored in 18 feet water, with 
Leard’s range front lighthouse bearing 341°, distant 1.8 miles. 


208 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


A black cask buoy is moored in 12 feet water off the eastern end 
of Try on shoals. 

A black cask buoy, marking the best anchorage in the road, is 
moored in 12 feet water, off the entrance to the dredged channel. 

A black cask buoy is moored on the eastern side of the harbor, with 
Paul Bluff light bearing 293°, distant 2,400 yards. 

A black spar buoy is moored in 12 feet at the southern end of the 
port side of the dredged channel, in which, on the port edge of the 
cut, two other black spar buoys are placed at equal distances in 4 feet 
water. A black stake is driven on the port side of the northern end 
of the channel. 

A red spar buoy is moored in 9 feet water on the starboard side of 
the northern end of the channel. 

Directions.—To enter Crapaud road, bring Leard’s range light¬ 
houses into line. 337°, and keep this range on until Wright’s range 
lighthouses are in line, 295°, when steer on that range to the anchor¬ 
age near the black buoy, in 13 to 15 feet water, sand and mud bottom 
and good holding ground. No heavy sea comes into this anchorage, 
the sands outside being covered only to a depth of a few feet at high 
water, and the shallow water to the eastward, off Inman point and 
Brockelsby head, overlaps the entrance to the road. 

The front lighthouse of Leard’s range and the light mast on Pal¬ 
mer’s wharf in line, 0°, leads through the dredged channel from the 
black buoy at the entrance to the wharves in the basin; the black 
buoys and stake are left on the port hand, and the red stake on the 
starboard hand, entering. Mariners, except those with local knowl¬ 
edge, should not attempt the dredged channel at night. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Crapaud road, at 
lOh. 0m.; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 6 feet. The tidal streams are weak 
and irregular; generally the rate does not exceed J knot at the anchor¬ 
age, but sometimes it reaches 14 knots for a short time along the edge 
of the shoals and in the entrance. 

Tryon shoals, of sand upon sandstone, dry out 1.3 miles offshore, 
between Brockelsby and Tryon rivers, and their southwestern end, in 
3 fathoms bears 177°, distant 2 miles from Tryon head. At 800 yards 
north-northeastward from the southwestern end of the shoals there 
are only 2 feet water over rocky bottom, and at 1,600 yards the sands 
are dry at low water. The southwestern end is steeper than any other 
part of these shoals, there being 44 fathoms close to it, but there is, 
nevertheless, sufficient warning by the lead, since the depth of 5 
fathoms is nowhere less than 4 mile from their edge. 

Caution.—The southern part of these shoals may be approached to 
any convenient depth, and the lead must be constantly used when in 
their vicinity, for the directions and rates of the tidal streams, which 


TRYON RIVER. 209 

meet off them, are variable. The ebb stream from bay Verte also fre¬ 
quently sets towards these shoals. 

Whistling buoy.—A red whistling buoy is moored southward of 
Tryon shoals with Leard’s range front lighthouse bearing 24° distant 
4 miles, and Carleton head just open of cape Traverse. 

Leading mark.—Carleton head in line with cape Traverse, 311°, 
clears the southwestern point of the shoals in 5 fathoms. 

Tryon river lies eastward of Tryon head, and flows by a very 
narrow channel through the western part of Tryon shoals. There is 
1 foot of water over the bar of this channel at low water springs, but 
the depth increases to 11 feet for a short distance within, and then the 
channel becomes still narrower, winding through flats of sand, mud, 
and weeds to the bridge, a distance of nearly 3 miles, following the 
channel. Small schooners enter Tryon river, near high water, the 
tidal rise being 6 to 8 feet. There are flourishing farms on each side 
of the river. 

The coast from Tryon head trends about westward, 4J miles to 
cape Traverse, and contains three coves, named Cumberland, Augus¬ 
tin, and Provost, which are separated by points of cliff, and are dry 
at low water. The 5-fathom curve of soundings is 2 miles south- 
southwestward of Tryon head, whence it runs to about J mile off cape 
Traverse. 

From cape Traverse the coast trends northwestward, 2} miles to 
Carleton head, and thence northwestward 6 miles to Sea Cow head 
or Salutation point. The points between these headlands are formed 
of red sandstone and clay cliffs, with coves between, affording shelter 
and landing for boats, and also, w T ith wind off the land or in fine 
weather, anchorage for small craft. Shallow water does not extend 
beyond 600 yards off either of these headlands northwestward of cape 
Traverse; but in the bays its 3-fathom edge is sometimes 1,200 yards 
from the shore, and as the line of 5 fathoms is sometimes very close 
to that of 3 fathoms vessels should not approach to a depth of less 
than 7 fathoms. 

Ice boats.—Provision is made for communication in winter by 
ice boats from cape Tormentine to Traverse cove, on the north¬ 
western side of cape Traverse, whence a branch railway, 13 (land) 
miles long, runs to Emerald junction, where it connects with Prince 
Edward Island main line. 

Light.—A white octagonal lighthouse, with a red lantern, 60 feet 
high, on the extremity of the low flat point of Sea Cow head, exhibits 
at 88 feet above high water a flashing white light, showing 2 bright 
flashes of 0.64 seconds duration every 10 seconds; thus, flash 0.64 
seconds, eclipse 1.86 seconds; flash 0.64 seconds, eclipse 6.86 seconds, 

50918—08 - 14 


210 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—SOUTH COAST. 


which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 15 miles. There 
is a white dwelling near the lighthouse. 

Bedeque bay, containing Bedeque harbor and Sandbury cove, lies 
between Sea Cow head and Little Dutchman Bock point, which bears 
£98°, 9 miles from the former. 

Bank.—A bank of comparatively shoal water commences at Sea 
Cow head, and terminates at cape Egmont, which bears 290° distant 
14J miles. The bank extends 3^ miles offshore, through Bedeque bay, 
and its southern edge, in 5 fathoms forms an excellent guide for 
vessels; but if of heavy draft they should not venture within that 
depth, as there is in one place a shoal of 19 feet, with rocky bottom. 

Bedeque harbor.—Indian head lies 3J miles northward of Sea 
Cow head, and Bedeque harbor runs in eastward between Indian head 
and Phelan point, which bears 321°, 1.3 miles from it. Indian head 
is faced by sandstone cliffs 25 feet high, and rises to double that 
height a short distance back from the shore; Phelan point is compara¬ 
tively low and wooded. The Boman Catholic church eastward of 
Phelan point is very conspicuous, and forms a good mark from the 
offing. Indian spit, which dries out J mile from the head, and the 
shallow water off the opposite shore, leave a channel into the harbor 
about 500 feet wide with a depth of 18 feet least water, abreast 
Indian Spit lighthouse. Indian island is about 800 yards eastward of 
Indian head, with which it is connected by sand banks; and Island 
shoal extends 1,000 yards northward of the island. The channel 
passes northward of this shoal, and then turns southward and passes 
eastward of the island, where vessels may lie quite landlocked in 5 
fathoms water. The harbor within Indian Spit lighthouse up to 
the wharves of the town is from 400 to 1,200 feet in width with a 
least depth of 3 fathoms. 

Wilmot river, which has a west-northwesterly course, flows into the 
harbor northeastward of Indian island; it has a depth of 3 feet, and 
is obstructed by oyster beds; a bridge crosses the river 2 miles from 
the island. 

Dunk river, forming the main branch of the harbor, flows north¬ 
ward on the eastern side of Indian island, from which it can be 
ascended for 1J miles. From the deep water of Dunk river a chan¬ 
nel, 2,700 feet in length and 250 feet in width, has been dredged to 
a depth of 12 feet at low water, up to a pier at Hird point, situated 
about 2J miles southward of Summerside town. This pier, being 510 
feet long and the outlet of a large and rich agricultural district, is an 
important shipping place. The river channel just above the pier be¬ 
comes obstructed by oyster beds, so that it is intricate, with a depth 
of only 4 feet. One and one-half miles farther up on the left bank is 
Pope’s wharf, and J mile above this wharf the river divides into two 


BEDEQUE HARBOR. 


211 


narrow and shallow channels, crossed by bridges at the distance of 
1 mile. 

Navigability.—A depth of 18 feet at low water ordinary springs 
can be carried across the bar into the harbor, but the channel is 
intricate. 

Roadstead.—Anchorage in the roadstead, which lies between the 
shoals extending westward from Indian head and Miscouche bank, 
is safe in summer, although it is open to southwesterly winds, the 
shallowness of the water, and the land about 13 miles distant to 
the southwestward, preventing the sea from becoming very heavy. 
The best anchorage is in 22 feet at low water, sand and clay bottom. 

Lights.—A white octagonal lighthouse, 42 feet high, on a circular 
stone pier, situated on Indian spit, exhibits, at 48 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, but with a green sector between 50° and 
90° over Miscouche shoals, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 13 miles. 

Range lights.—On the roof of the freight shed on the railway 
wharf at Summerside a square tower, 30 feet high, exhibits, at 33 
feet above high water, a fixed light, showing white, except when 
bearing 70° and over a small arc on either side of this bearing when 
it is red, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 

A square, pyramidal, white lighthouse, 56 feet high, situated 70° 
| mile from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 65 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which is visible when bearing 70° and over 
a small arc on either side of that bearing, and should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 8 miles. 

Buoyage.—Miscouche Bank black buoy. 

A red conical buoy, No. 2, is moored in 20 feet water at 286°, 200 
yards from Indian Spit lighthouse. 

A red cask is moored in 20 feet water at 27°, 100 yards from Indian 
Spit lighthouse, to mark the end of the spit. 

A black can buoy, No. 3, is moored in 20 feet water at 72°, 700 
yards from Indian Spit lighthouse. 

A red buoy, No. 4, is moored in 20 feet water at 250°, 1,000 yards 
from the wharf lighthouse. 

The northern side of the channel opposite Island shoal is generally 
marked by stakes with bushes on the top. 

Breakwater.—A breakwater is being constructed a distance of 
1,050 yards, from Indian head to the outer side of the sand spit, on 
which the lighthouse is. built. 

Ice.—The harbor is usually frozen over about December 11, and 
is clear of ice about April 16, being completely closed between those 
dates. The first vessel arrives about April 24, and the last one leaves 
about December 11. 


212 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-SOUTH COAST. 


Directions.—The assistance of a pilot being indispensable to enter 
Bedeque harbor, it may be advisable to anchor in the roadstead out¬ 
side until one is obtained. 

For the roadstead, from the eastward, when about 1 mile west¬ 
ward of Sea Cow head, steer northward, not decreasing the water 
to less than 20 feet, and anchor in 20 to 24 feet w 7 ater, with the north¬ 
ern ends of Indian head and island in line 65° and Sea Cow head 
160°, or, if desired farther in, wdth Indian Spit light bearing 50°. 
At night anchor when Indian Spit light bears 39° and Sea Cow head 
160°. If desiring to go farther in, continue the northerly course 
until Indian Spit light shows green, then anchor. 

Approaching from the northwestward, when about 1 mile south¬ 
ward of Miscouche Bank gas buoy, steer about 27° for the same 
position as above. At night, anchor with lights on bearings given 
above unless going to the inner anchorage. In that case change 
course to the northward when Sea Cow light bears 160° and anchor 
when Indian Spit light shows green. 

To enter the harbor, steer about 34° for No. 2 buoy, observing that 
the shoal off Indian head is very steep. Leave No. 2 buoy 200 feet on 
the starboard hand, and steer to leave No. 3 buoy 200 feet on the 
port hand; then steer to leave No. 4 buoy 200 feet on the starboard 
hand, whence make a direct course to the railway wharf. This route, 
which crosses the line of the range lighthouses four times, carries 
a least depth of 17 feet at low water, but owing to the narrowness of 
the channel it should not be taken without local knowledge. 

The two red lights kept in line 70° after rounding the red buoy to 
the northeastward of Indian Spit light, lead up to the railroad wharf 
in not less than 15 feet of water. Vessels wishing to pass the wharves 
and enter the Dunk river branch of the harbor must leave the range 
lights on the port hand by changing course to the southward after 
passing Green’s wharf. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Green’s wharf on the 
north shore of Bedeque harbor, at lOh. 15m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 
5 feet. 

Summerside, a town containing 2,875 inhabitants in 1901, is on 
the northeastern side of Bedeque harbor. From the town a steam 
ferry runs across the harbor to Indian island, where a large hotel has 
been built. 

Wharves.—From the town several wharves extend into the har¬ 
bor ; of these the railway wharf, which is connected with the railway, 
is the principal, being 500 feet long, with a depth of 22 feet at its end 
at low water. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Summerside. 

Coal.—There are usually some 700 tons of soft Nova Scotia coal in 
stock, besides about 1,100 tons kept by the railroad. Vessels of 20 


MISCOUCHE BANK—LITTLE DUTCHMAN ROCK. 213 

feet draft coal alongside the railroad wharf; but coal can also be 
supplied in lighters, the lighters being loaded in bulk. 

Supplies.—Meat, vegetables, and bread are procurable. Water, 
which is obtained from the town pumps, is very bad. 

Repairs.—There are no facilities for repairs. 

Communication—Telegraph.—There is daily communication in 
summer between Summerside and Chene point by steamers of the 
Charlottetown Steam Navigation Company. A steamer of the Quebec 
Steamship Company, running between Montreal and Pictou, calls at 
Summerside fortnightly both ways. 

There is a station of Prince Edward Island railway at Summerside, 
which is also connected by telegraph with the rest of the island and 
with the mainland. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

Miscouche bank.—Miscouche point lies 273°, 2.2 miles from 
Phelan point; and Miscouche bank, which dries out 1J miles from 
Miscouche point, extends nearly 3 miles southward from the point to 
the depth of 3 fathoms, sheltering from westerly winds the roadstead 
in Bedeque bay, outside Bedeque harbor. 

Buoys.—A black can buoy, No. 1, is moored on the southern part 
of the bank, in 17 feet water, with Indian head bearing 65°, distant 
2.8 miles. 

A black, cylindrical steel gas buoy, surmounted by a pyramidal 
steel frame supporting a lantern from which is exhibited an inter¬ 
mittent red light, is moored in 3J fathoms, on the southeastern end 
of Miscouche shoal, with Sea Cow head bearing 133°, distant 3 miles, 
and Indian Spit lighthouse 45°, distant 2f miles. 

Clearing mark.—The northwestern ends of Indian head and In¬ 
dian island in line, bearing 65°, clear the southern side of the bank 
in 13 feet water, but the lead and the buoys are sufficient guides when 
a greater depth is required. 

Sandbury cove, westward of Miscouche point, is extensive, but 
nearly dry at low water, except a narrow channel through the 
flat, suitable only for boats or very small craft. Miscouche church 
is inland 2f miles north-northeastward of Miscouche point. 

Little Dutchman rock, at the end of the point on the western side 
of Bedeque bay, is situated 5 miles westward of Miscouche point. 
The rock is above water but low, and in its vicinity shallow water 
extends a long mile offshore; the depth then increases to nearly 4 
fathoms for 2 miles farther off, and then decreases again to 3J fath¬ 
oms over sandstone bottom not far from the 5-fathom curve. Fifteen 
Point church bears from the shallow part nearly 337°, distant 3 
miles. 


214 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—SOUTH COAST. 


Fifteen point, with a settlement and a church near the shore, 
visible from a distance, either eastward or westward, is westward 1J 
miles from Little Dutchman rock. The Roman Catholic church is 
a white building, with a white spire, a light brown roof, and a small 
white nave with a black top. A tall white beacon stands a little 
eastward of it. 

The coast of Prince Edward island from Fifteen point trends 
westward 4£ miles to cape Egmont; shoal water which extends 1J 
miles off the middle of it, then gradually approaches the cape. 

Cape Egmont is a headland with cliffs of sandstone 50 feet high, 
and is quite bold to the southward, but to the westward has shallow, 
rocky ground J mile offshore. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 45 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached on its eastern side, situated at the extremity of cape Egmont, 
exhibits at 72 feet above high water a flashing white light, giving 1 
bright flash of 1 second’s duration every 5 seconds, which should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

The lighthouse is in latitude 46° 24' 20" N., longitude 64° 07' 
45" W. 

Egmont hank, of fine red sand, with 4 fathoms least water, is a 
narrow ridge 2£ miles long, northwest and southeast. Its southern 
end bears 239° 4 miles from cape Egmont, and there is a clear chan¬ 
nel, 7 to 8 fathoms in depth, between it and the cape. 

NORTHUMBERLAND STRAIT, EAST SHORE. 

Egmont hay, between cape Egmont and West point, which bears 
321°, distant 17 miles, is 8 miles deep, and affords excellent anchorage 
with offshore winds, in 4 to 7 fathoms, sand and clay bottom; but 
vessels should not anchor in less than 5 to 6 fathoms except on the 
northwestern side of the bay, because, along the eastern shore 5 fath¬ 
oms is too near the edge of the shoals, while off the river at the head 
of the bay, just within the 5-fathom curve, and 3 miles from the 
shore, there is rocky ground, with only 3J fathoms water. 

The shore of Egmont bay from cape Egmont trends about 346°, 
14 miles to Red head or Dutchman point; and 8°, -J mile from the 
head, and 200 yards offshore, is Dutchman rock, 30 feet high and 
isolated. Shallow rocky ground extends J mile off all this shore, 
which should not be approached to a less depth than 6 fathoms at low 
water. About 1 mile northeastward of Dutchman rock there are sand 
hills, which form the outer or western entrance point of Haldimand 
river, which is shallow and runs in southward, about 2 miles. 

From the sand hills, a sand bar, dry at low water, extends about 3J 
miles northward, parallel to the shore. Through this sand bar there 
are some very narrow channels, which are said to sometimes shift 


EGMONT BAY. 


215 


during heavy westerly gales. At the time of the Admiralty survey, 
the principal channel was pointed out by two small beacons, situated 
on the shore at about 1 mile southward of St. Jacques church. These 
beacons in line, bearing 104°, led over the bar, whence a southerly 
course was taken into a harbor, with 5 feet in it, suitable for small 
craft, and extending to Haldimand river entrance. 

The eastern side of Egmont bay, northward of Dutchman rock, 
should not be approached to less depth than 5J fathoms in a large 
vessel, for the shallow water off the bar of St. Jacques and Rock 
point extends 1 mile from the shore. St. Jacques church is conspicu¬ 
ously situated 5 miles northeastward of cape Egmont, having the 
French or Acadian settlement along the ridge northward of it, and 
the small river St. Jacques, with its sawmills, half a mile southward 
of it. The church is white, with a red roof, and a yellow tower with 
a portico attached. 

Enmore and Percival rivers, at the head of the bay, having a depth 
of 4 to 7 feet at low water, are useful only to boats and very small 
craft; they are approached by exceedingly narrow and intricate chan¬ 
nels through flats of sand, clay, and oyster beds, which dry in part at 
low water, and extend 14 miles from the shore. The tide flows about 
5 miles up these rivers, between low and marshy banks. 

Brae and Wolfe river entrances, on the northern shore of the bay, 
are sandy places dry at low water. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Egmont bay at 
3h. 0m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet. 

West point of Prince Edward island consists of sand hills 12 feet 
high, from which, except in the direction of West spit, shallow water 
does not extend far. A pier extends 72’0 feet from the point into a 
depth of 9 feet at low water; but a sand bank, with 7 feet water over 
it, has formed a short distance off the end of the pier. 

Light.—A square lighthouse, 67 feet high, with a dwelling at¬ 
tached and painted red and white in broad horizontal bands, on the 
sand beach at West point, exhibits at 66 feet above high water a 
revolving light, showing one red and three .white flashes every 90 
seconds, the flashes attaining their greatest brilliancy every 22£ 
seconds, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 13 miles. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage under West point in north¬ 
erly to easterly winds, in 4 fathoms, sand. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at West point at 6h. 
40m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet. 

West spit of sand upon sandstone, covered in some parts with only 
a few feet of water, runs northwestward 3 miles from West point, 
and then trends northward nearly 2 miles within West reef. There 
is a “ cul de sac ” between the spit and the shore, open to the north- 


216 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—WEST COAST. 


ward, in which there are 6 to 4 fathoms water. To avoid getting 
into this opening, or within West reef, when running from the north¬ 
ward vessels' should not approach the island nearer than the low 
water depth of 11 fathoms. 

West reef is a narrow and rocky ridge, 4 miles long north-north¬ 
west and south-southeast, with irregular soundings of 16 feet to 5 
fathoms. The least water, 16 feet, is near the middle of the reef, 
and there is a depth of 18 feet near its southern end, which bears 
292°, 3J miles from West point, and is 2J miles from the nearest 
land. Its northern end is 3J miles off the shore at the highest part 
of the cliffs between McWilliam cove and cape Wolfe. 

There are no leading marks for this reef, and as there are 13 
fathoms in one place close to its outer edge it can be certainly avoided 
in thick weather only by following the bank of soundings off the 
mainland in 9 to 10 fathoms, which leads 3 miles westward of it. 
There is a passage within the reef, between it and West spit, but it 
is narrow with irregular soundings and strong tidal streams and 
should therefore not be attempted. 

Whistling buoy.—A red conical whistling buoy, with “ West 
Point reef, P. E. I.,” on it in white letters, is moored in 13 fathoms 
about j mile westward of West reef, with West Point lighthouse 
bearing 123°, distant 5| miles. 

Tidal streams.—The rate and direction of the tidal streams about 
West reef are very irregular, being influenced by winds, and varying 
with the time of tide, and probably with the age and declination of 
the moon. (See the peculiar tides at Shediac and Richibucto at pp. 
177 and 186, which also ocqur in Egmont bay.) In the deep-water 
channel passing close westward of West reef, the rate of the stream 
sometimes amounts to 24 knots an hour, the ebb there setting north¬ 
ward and the flood southward, the streams causing a heavy sea when 
setting against the wind. 

The west coast of Prince Edward island, from West Point, 
curves northward 6 miles to cape Wolfe, and thence northeastward 27 
miles to North point; jt is unbroken, and of red clay and sandstone 
cliffs, with intervening sandy beaches which afford landing for boats 
in fine weather. There are several ponds along this coast where fish¬ 
ermen’s boats obtain shelter; but their outlets through sandy beaches 
are nearly dry at low water and the channels constantly change their 
positions, being completely blocked at times during heavy gales. 
Amongst these are Roseville, Miminegash (see below), Black, and 
Nail ponds. Shallow water runs out to considerable distances off 
various parts of this coast, as much as 2 miles off Nail pond, and, as 
a general rule, it should not be approached nearer than the depth 
of 11 fathoms at night, or in thick weather. 


MIMINEGASH REEF—NORTH POINT. 


217 


Miminegash reef is a ledge of rocks nearly dry at low water, and 
nearly 1 mile in length parallel to the shore, from which its outer edge 
is distant ^ mile. It lies directly off the sandy beach, and across the 
outlet of Miminegash pond, which is 12.3 miles from cape Wolfe. 
There are 2J fathoms water between the reef and the shore, and ves¬ 
sels have moored there during summer to take in cargoes of lumber, 
but it is a very unsafe place. 

Miminegash pond, where there is a village and which is available 
only for very'small craft, is situated within Miminegash reef. Break¬ 
waters or piers, on either side of the entrance, 56 feet apart, confine 
and keep the channel into the pond from shifting. The northern 
breakwater is 550 feet long; the southern, 350 feet. 

Range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 17 feet high, on the 
outer end of the southern breakwater, exhibits, at 17 feet above 
high water, a fixed light, which shows red from 56°, through east, to 
135°; white from 135°, through south, to 198°, and is obscured else¬ 
where ; it should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 6 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 27 feet high, situated on the beach of the 
pond 168°, 240 yards from the preceding light, exhibits, at 28 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, between 
56°, through east and south, to about 198° or until cut off by the 
highland to the northeastward of the lighthouse, in clear weather, 
a distance of 10 miles. 

These lighthouses or lights in line, 168°, lead to the entrance of the 
pond. 

Buoys.—The southern channel inside Miminegash reef is marked 
by three spar buoys, painted black and white in vertical stripes, 
moored in mid-channel. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage for small vessels with off¬ 
shore winds, in 3 fathoms water, near a spar buoy, about ^ mile 
northwestward of the north breakwater. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Miminegash, at 3h. 
30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Shallow water extends 2 miles off Nail head, and 1J miles off 
Nail pond, which are 6 miles and 3 miles, respectively, southwest- 
ward of North point. 

North point of Prince Edward island is of low red cliffs. A reef 
extends from it northward and eastward 1J miles to the depth of 
3 fathoms, and nearly 2 miles to 5 fathoms; rocky and irregular 
soundings of 6 to 7 fathoms continue northeastward, causing at times 
a dangerous breaking sea, and terminating in a small patch of 
rocks, on wdiich there is a dep’lh of 4 fathoms, bearing 22°, 4J 
miles from North point. Vessels should give this reef a wide berth 
in thick weather, or at night, being guided by the soundings; it is 


218 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—EAST COAST. 


most steep on the western side, where there are 10 fathoms at the dis¬ 
tance of 600 yards. The inner part of the reef dries out \ mile 
from the point, affording shelter to fishing schooners, which shift 
from side to side as the wind changes. 

Light.—A white octagonal lighthouse, 60 feet high, with a red 
lantern, and with a dwelling near it, on North point, exhibits, at 80 
feet above high water, a revolving white light, which attains its 
greatest brilliancy every minute, and should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 14 miles. 

Position.—The lighthouse is in latitude 47° 03' 41" N., longitude 
63° 59' 19" W. 

Directions for Northumberland strait. (See p. 141.) 

EAST COAST OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

Cape Bear and light. (See p. 190.) 

The eastern coast of Prince Edward island from cape Bear trends 
nearly northward about 1 mile to Murray head, the extreme north 
eastern point of the cliffs, whence they turn abruptly westward 
toward Murray harbor. 

Bear reef, of sandstone and large stones, extends eastward, from 
between cape Bear and Murray head, f mile to the depth of 3 
fathoms, and 1 mile to 5 fathoms. There is but little water over 
the greater part of this extensive and irregularly shaped reef, which 
has 7 to 8 fathoms close to its edge, and the southern and eastern 
sides of which should not be approached nearer than the depth of 
10 fathoms. 

Leading marks.—Guernsey point well open southward of Black 
Bock point leads southward of Bear reef; Panmure head and Terras 
point in line, bearing 344°, leads nearly a mile eastward of it; at 
night the light on Panmure head must be kept open of Terras point. 

Water.—At 700 yards southward of Murray head, there is a fine 
little stream of fresh water, which is one of the few places on the 
island where a large vessel can readily water. Boats can land at 
the stream during westerly winds, when vessels will find good an¬ 
chorage under .Murray head. 

Fishermans bank, from the shoalest part of which Murray head 
bears 273°, distant 7J miles, is of sandstone, thinly covered with 
stones, gravel, the broken shells; it is 3 miles long east-northeast 
and west-southwest, and 1^ miles broad, within the depth of 10 
fathoms; and the general depth over the bank is 8 to 9 fathoms, 
but in its central part there are two patches, the shoalest of 4 fathoms, 
mentioned above, and one of 5 fathoms f mile farther eastward. There 
are irregular soundings of 10 to 20 fathoms between this bank and Bear 


MURRAY HARBOR. 


219 


reef, and in other directions around the bank, of 15 to 20 fathoms. 
It should not be approached at all by vessels of heavy draft; and 
by vessels of light draft, when there is a heavy sea running, not 
nearer than the depth of 13 fathoms, which in most parts is close 
to its 10-fathom edge, and about 4 mile from the shallow water. 

Murray harbor entrance, which is in the bay between Murray 
head and Cody point, lying 346°, 2J miles from it, has an exceedingly 
dangerous bar of sand, over which 10 feet can be carried at low 
water ordinary springs; but strong easterly winds send in so heavy 
a sea as to render it at times impassable, a line of breakers extending 
then completely from Murray head to Cody point. 

Within the bar, the channel into the harbor, between sandy shoals 
extending from the shore on either side, contracts gradually in 
breadth to 120 yards, and expands again to 400 yards inside Old Store 
point, the sandy southern entrance point, situated about 1 mile from 
the outer edge of the bar. The depth inside the bar gradually in¬ 
creases to 6 fathoms close to the steep sandy beach of Old Store point. 

The harbor entrance between Old Store point and the long sandy 
spit, which runs south-southwestward from Cody point, is over £ mile 
wide, but, except the channel, it is nearly all dry at low water. 
Within this entrance the harbor is of great extent, but greatly ob¬ 
structed by shoals, and it contains five wooded islands, and several 
rivers or sea-creeks on either side, in addition to Murray river, the 
main inlet, which is navigable for about 6 miles from the harbor en¬ 
trance, or nearly to the dam which crosses it near its head. 

There are flourishing settlements on the shores of the rivers, the 
principal one being at South river, on the southern shore 2 miles inside 
the harbor entrance, where there is an Episcopal church, with a 
steeple. 

Range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 20 feet high, on Old 
Store or Beach point, exhibits at 23 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 
miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 40 feet high, on the mainland at 236°, 
1,500 yards from the preceding light, exhibits at 57 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 10 miles. 

Buoys.—A buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the outer edge of the 
bar, with the leading lighthouses in line, bearing 236°. A buoy is 
moored in the fairway 4 mile within the outer one; it is intended to 
enable vessels to run in when hazy weather prevents the leading mark 
from being seen. 

Storm signals are exhibited from a mast on Humes hill, Beach 
point. 


220 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-EAST. COAST. 


Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Murray harbor at 
9h. 6m.; springs rise 6£ feet, neaps 3J feet. The rate of the tidal 
stream at the anchorage within Old Store point is about 2 knots. 

Directions.—Local knowledge is very desirable owing to the nar¬ 
rowness of the channel. While seaward of the bar and in not less 
than 5 fathoms water, bring the white range lighthouses, or their 
lights, in line, bearing 236°. Do not mistake the night storm signals 
for the range lights. Proceed in with the range on until 350 yards 
from Old Store point, when steer to pass that point at less than 100 
yards distant. Pass both buoys close-to. Anchor in 3 to 5 fathoms 
sand and clay bottom, at any distance not exceeding J mile within Old 
Store point, because farther in, the channel, which passes southward 
of the islands, becomes very intricate, and can not be followed with¬ 
out a pilot. 

Railroad.—A branch of the Prince Edward Island railroad is 
extended to Murray river. 

The coast from Cody point trends north-northeastward nearly 2 
miles to Reid point, thence northward 1J miles to Terras point, and 
northwestward 1 mile to Smith point. 

Graham point is a small projection nearly midway between Reid 
and Terras points, and from it Graham ledge runs out 1 mile to the 
depth of 5 fathoms and f mile to 3 fathoms. The shallowest part 
of this ledge, with 6 feet least water, bears 44°, 800 yards from the 
point. A rocky shoal runs out f mile from between Terras and Smith 
points, and foul ground with 4 to 5 fathoms at low water extends 
1J miles off Smith point. The soundings are very irregular off the 
coast between Graham point and Panmure head, varying from 13 
fathoms, mud, to 5J fathoms, rock, until beyond 3 miles from the 
shore. 

Graham pond, a boat harbor on the northern side of Graham 
point, is about J mile long and 600 to 800 feet wide, with a usual depth 
of 6 to 8 feet over its outer part. Works have been undertaken to 
protect the entrance. 

Sand bar.—A narrow sand bar, always above water, 1J miles in 
length, trends northward from Smith point and joins it to Panmure 
head, the eastern point of Panmure island. 

Panmure island is about 2 miles long east-northeast and west- 
southwest and 1 mile wide, in great part wooded, and has cliffs of red 
sandstone 40 feet high along its northeastern shore. The island is 
joined to the land southward of it by a sand bar more than 1 mile in 
length which is always above water. 

Light.—An octagonal white lighthouse, 50 feet high, with a dwell¬ 
ing attached, on Panmure head exhibits at 96 feet above high water 
a fixed white light, which should be seen fin clear weather a distance 


CARDIGAN BAY-GEORGETOWN HARBOR. 


221 


of 16 miles. Fir trees growing round the lighthouse partly obscure 
it and render it inconspicuous. 

Panmure ledge, of sandstone covered by 7 to 11 feet of water, 
extends 1,200 yards southeastward from Panmure head to the depth 
of 3 fathoms; Graham point and Murray head in one, bearing 182°, 
leads just eastward of the outer part of the ledge in over 5 fathoms. 

Buoy.—A spar buoy painted in red and black horizontal bands 
is moored in 7 fathoms water off Panmure ledge, with Panmure 
Island lighthouse bearing 280°, distant 1 mile. 

Deep-draft vessels entering Georgetown harbor should leave the 
buoy on the port hand. 

Cardigan bay, the entrance to which is between Panmure head 
and Boughton point, the southern end of Boughton island, lying 3.4 
miles 56° from Panmure head, extends northwestward about 4 miles. 

The bay affords good anchorage in 6 to 10 fathoms, mud bottom, 
with offshore winds, but winds from south-southwest to northeast, 
through south, send in a heavy sea. 

Georgetown harbor, sometimes called Three rivers, extends north¬ 
westward from the southwestern part of Cardigan bay; it is a fine 
harbor and has space and depth sufficient for large vessels. The rise 
of ordinary spring tides being only 5 feet is a great disadvantage as 
compared to Charlottetown; but, on the other hand, the ice does not, 
in general, form in Georgetown as soon in the fall by several weeks, 
and it also breaks up earlier in the spring, so that vessels can enter 
later and leave it earlier, or vice versa. This is an important advan¬ 
tage in a climate where navigation is closed by ice for so much of 
each year. 

The channel leading to the entrance of the harbor passes between 
the shoals of Panmure island and Cardigan point, which separates 
the harbor from Cardigan river. 

Panmure shoal extends 1,400 yards off the northern coast of 
Panmure island, and Panmure spit, which forms the western part of 
the shoal, and is of sand dry at low water, extends northwestward 
1,300 yards from Billhook point, the northern point of the island. 
The northern part of Panmure spit, which is named Wheeler bar, is 
covered with 2 to 9 feet of water; its northern side is steep-to. 

Panmure shoal and spit, and farther in, the equally steep shoals off 
Grave and .St. Andrew points, are on the southwestern side of the 
channel leading to Georgetown harbor. 

Buoys.—A black spar buoy is moored in 5 fathoms with Panmure 
Head lighthouse bearing 227° distant 950 yards. 

A black spar buoy is moored in 5 fathoms off the northeastern part 
of Panmure shoal, with Panmure Head lighthouse bearing 130°, 1^ 
miles. 


222 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—EAST COAST. 


A black spar buoy is moored in 17 feet on the shoal extending east¬ 
ward from Grave point with St. Andrew Point lighthouse bearing 
298°, 1,400 yards. 

St. Mary bay is south-southwestward of Panmure island and 
within the sand bar connecting the island to Smith point; and farther 
westward are Sturgeon and Livingstone bays, all three of these bays 
having a common entrance northwestward of Panmure island, be¬ 
tween Panmure spit and the shoal off Grave point; which entrance, 
although very narrow, has water sufficient for vessels of moderate 
draft. The channel leading to Sturgeon and St. Mary bays is very 
intricate, and though it is marked by two red and two black spar 
buoys, a local pilot is necessary to navigate it. 

In the southern part of St. Mary bay there is a pier 407 feet long, 
with a basin at its outer end, from which a channel having 10 feet at 
low water has been dredged to deep water (3 fathoms); and also 
there is, on the southern side of Sturgeon bay, about J mile eastward 
of the mouth of Sturgeon river, a pier to which a channel, 100 feet 
wide, has been dredged to a depth of 12 feet at low water. 

Cardigan shoal, stretching southward and eastward from Cardi¬ 
gan point, which separates the harbor from Cardigan river on the 
northwest, is an extensive shoal of sandstone, having a least depth 
on it of 4 feet and only 6 feet at £ mile from shore; but 200 yards 
farther out there are 3 fathoms. 

Buoys.—A red conical buoy is moored in 5 fathoms southward of 
the shoal, with Cardigan point bearing 314°, 1.1 miles. 

A red cask buoy is moored in 5 fathoms southwestward of the mid¬ 
dle of the shoal, with Cardigan point bearing 341°, 800 yards. 

Outer anchorage.—There is anchorage in 26 to 29 feet, mud, be¬ 
tween Cardigan shoal and Knoll shoal, in a space about \ mile long, 
east and west, and 700 yards broad. 

The Knoll is a small shoal, with 9 feet least water, sand over sand¬ 
stone bottom, which lies just outside the entrance of Georgetown 
harbor and directly in the way of its navigation. 

Buoy.—A red cask buoy is moored in 18 feet on the southern side 
of the Knoll, with St. Andrew Point lighthouse bearing 254°, dis¬ 
tant 1,000 yards. Shoal water extends 175 yards westward from 
the buoy. 

Thrumcap spit, which extends westward nearly \ mile from the 
western point of Cardigan Point headland, is of sand, having the 
greater part of it dry at low water. This shoal shelters the harbor 
and prevents heavy seas from entering. 

Thrumcap islet, which is joined to the western point of Cardigan 
Point headland by a sand bar, is small, wooded, and cliffy. 


GEORGETOWN HARBOR. 


223 


Buoy.—A red can buoy is moored in 18 feet near the western end 
of Thrumcap spit, with St. Andrew Point lighthouse bearing 201° 
800 yards. 

The entrance to Georgetown harbor, with depths between 5 and 
11 fathoms between Cardigan and Panmure shoals, is 500 yards 
wide; at the Knoll it is scarcely 400 yards: while between Thrum- 
cap islet and St. Andrew point on the southwestern shore it is 
nearly £ mile wide, but the shoals here diminish the breadth of the 
channel to 450 yards. 

Within the Thrumcap the northern shore of the harbor forms a 
bay f mile wide, the northwestern point of which is Gaudin point, 
having a sand spit running out from it southwestward £ mile. 

Buoy.—A red spar buoy is moored in 20 feet at the end of Gaudin 
spit, with St. Andrew Point lighthouse bearing 145°, 0.85 mile. 

Aitkins point lies on the southern shore of the harbor J mile 
westward of Gaudin point. A shoal runs out 200 to 500 yards 
off the southern shore from St. Andrew point to Aitkins point, and 
continues westward in the entrance of Montague river. Between 
Gaudin spit and Aitkins point the channel is 375 yards wide, be¬ 
tween depths of 3 fathoms, and carries 6£ fathoms water; it expands 
again but shoals to 4 fathoms within the spit. 

Buoys.—A black cask buoy is moored in 19 feet on Aitkins Point 
shoal with St. Andrew Point lighthouse bearing 130 3 a little more 
than 1 mile. 

A red spar buoy is moored in 12 feet water, with Brudenell point 
bearing 37°, 600 yards. 

Anchorage.—The usual and best anchorage for large vessels in 
Georgetown harbor is in about 5 fathoms water, with good holding 
ground of mud, between Thrumcap spit and Gaudin Point spit, hav¬ 
ing the shore end of the town wharf distant 900 yards and in line 
with the square tower of the English church 5°; small vessels anchor 
farther within the bay, according to their draft, and will find a depth 
of 17 feet 200 yards from the town wharf. 

There is also anchorage all the way to Brudenell point, 1 mile 
above the town. 

Range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, with red 
lantern rising from roof of dwelling, on St. Andrew point, exhibits 
at 50 feet above high water a fixed white light, which should be seen 
in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

A square white tower, 46 feet high, on Westaway’s farm 279°, 700 
yards from the preceding light, exhibits at 62 feet above high water 
a fixed white light which should be seen, when in line with St. An¬ 
drew Point light, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. The light 
is also visible across the harbor to Georgetown. 


224 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—EAST COAST. 


These two lights in line 279° lead in from seaward until the Rail¬ 
road Wharf light opens. 

Railroad Wharf light.—A square white lantern on the roof of 
the coal shed with red sides, on the outer end of the railroad wharf, 
exhibits at 23 feet above high water a fixed red light, which should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 2 miles. 

'When this light opens 321° from the range light’s line it leads to 
the railroad wharf. 

Ice.—Georgetown harbor is usually frozen over about December 
26, and is clear of harbor ice about April 21, being completely closed 
from January until April. Field ice comes in from the middle of 
January until the end of April. 

The ice generally forms in autumn in Georgetown harbor several 
weeks later than it does in Charlottetown harbor, and it also breaks 
up earlier in spring. 

Directions.—Owing to the narrowness of some parts of the chan¬ 
nel leading into Georgetown harbor, a pilot is required to beat a 
large vessel in or out; but with a fair wind, or in a steamer, the fol¬ 
lowing directions may be used, by observing that caution is necessary. 

Caution.—Reliance must not be placed on the buoys, as they are 
frequently out of position. 

Approach.—From the southward pass eastward of Panmure ledge 
in not less than 7 fathoms, or by keeping Murray head open to the 
eastward of Graham point till the northern side of Panmure island 
bears 275°, and then steer northwestward until the lighthouses on 
St. Andrew point and at Westaway’s farm are in line. If this mark 
is obscured by thick weather, the northern edge of Panmure shoal 
may be followed by the lead, in 6 fathoms, to ^ mile from Panmure 
Shoal buoy, situated 310°, 1J miles from Panmure Head lighthouse, 
where the shoal becomes too steep for the lead to be a safe guide. 

From the eastward pass 1 mile southward of Boughton point; 
then steer about 266° until the lighthouses on St. Andrew point and 
at Westaway’s farm are in line. In thick weather the southern edge 
of Cardigan shoal may be followed, by the lead in 6 fathoms from 
the outer buoy to the inner buoy. 

Enter the harbor with the lighthouses on St. Andrew point and 
at Westaway’s farm in line, 279°, steering between Panmure and 
Cardigan shoals, and in the fairway until the Railroad Wharf light 
opens; then steer for that light 321°; go slowly, and when the Eng¬ 
lish church tower comes in line with the town wharf, 5°, anchor. 
These directions cross some 4^-fathom spots. If the vessel draws more 
than that and it is necessary to enter at low water, keep the range 
lights in line as above directed until Brudenell point bears 302°. 
Keep Brudenell point on that bearing until the steeple of the Roman 


GEORGETOWN. 


225 


Catholic church is well open northwestward of the English church 
tow r er when haul into the harbor, and anchor as before directed. 

In thick weather either bring up in the outer anchorage, or proceed 
into the harbor, as expedient, being guided by the soundings. 

Caution.—Wheeler bar must be given a sufficient berth, as it is 
steep-to. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Georgetown harbor 
at 8h. 40m., by the mean of the a. m. and p. m. tides, the latter being 
generally the later by about an hour in summer; springs rise 5 feet, 
neaps 3| feet. The rate of the tidal streams does not exceed f knot. 

Georgetown, the capital of Kings county, having about 1,060 
inhabitants, is well situated on the northern shore of the harbor, just 
eastward of Gaudin point. Its streets, which are wide, are laid out 
at right angles. The principal buildings are the two churches above 
mentioned and the court-house. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Georgetown. 

Wharves.—The Railroad wharf extends south-southeastward 
about 800 feet from the shore just eastward of Gaudin point; there is 
a depth of 20 feet water at its outer end, and from 23 to 10 feet on its 
western side, but it can accommodate a vessel over 200 feet in length 
only if her draft is less than 10 feet forward. Besides the Railroad 
wharf there are the Town wharf, and four smaller wharves. 

A pier, having depth of 10 feet at its outer end at low water, ex¬ 
tends 391 feet off the shore on the southern side of the harbor near 
Aitkins point. 

Supplies.—General supplies, including fresh water, may be ob¬ 
tained at Georgetown, but the water being obtained from wells, as 
in most other parts of the island, must be taken off in a vessel’s own 
boats. 

Coal.—About 300 tons are usually in stock, and the railroad depart¬ 
ment has generally about 550 tons. 

Vessels of light draft can coal alongside the Railroad wharf. In 
summer, with short nqtice, coal can be brought alongside in schooners 
of 30 to 60 tons. 

Communication—Telegraph.—A branch of the Prince Edward 
Island railway runs from mount Stewart to Georgetown. There is 
telegraphic communication with the rest of the island and with the 
mainland. There is steamer communication with Pictou once a week 
during summer; this service is continued, when possible, after the 
close of ordinary navigation, by a steamer specially constructed for 
breaking through ice, but she is usually unable to make the passage 
during February and March. 


50918—08-15 


22fi PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-EAST COAST. 

Brudenell and Montague rivers unite their streams at Brudenell 
point, westward of Georgetown harbor. Brudenell river, the north¬ 
ern of the two, is navigable for large vessels to Brudenell islet, 
1J miles up, and for small craft and boats about 3 miles farther, to 
the head of the tide. Montague river can be ascended by vessels of 
considerable size nearly to the bridge, a distance of 4 miles, and by 
boats about 1 mile farther to where the tide ends. The fresh water 
streams at the heads of these sea creeks are mere brooks. 

Cardigan river, which enters Cardigan bay on the northeastern 
side of Cardigan point, and which, with the two rivers mentioned 
above, has caused Georgetown to be called Three Bivers, is navigable 
for large vessels to the distance of 5 miles above Cardigan point, and 
for smaller vessels 2 miles farther, or to within \ mile of the head of 
the tide, where the fresh water is insignificant in quantity. This 
river is rendered somewhat difficult of entrance by MacPhee shoal 
and Maitland flat, which are very steep, and contract the navigable 
channel to 400 yards in width, the depth being 7 fathoms. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 32 feet high, situated close to 
the western shore of Cardigan river, at a short distance above South 
Ferry wharf and below Morrison beach, exhibits at 43 feet above 
high water a fixed light, which shows green seaward and white north¬ 
eastward across the river, and should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 8 miles. 

Directions.—Steer for a position in Cardigan bay, with Panmure 
Head lighthouse bearing 167° and Cardigan River lighthouse 291°, 
avoiding the shoals; then steer about 294°, keeping Cardigan River 
lighthouse on the port bow and thus clearing MacPhee shoal on the 
southern side of the river entrance and Maitland Point shoal on the 
northern side. When northeastward of Cardigan River lighthouse, or 
when its white light opens at night, the vessel will have reached safe 
anchorage off the south ferry slip. 

Boughton island, at the northern entrance to Cardigan bay, is 
united on its northeastern side to Bruce point by a dry sand bar 1 
mile in length and is divided into two parts, ©f which the southern, 
700 yards long, is joined to the remainder by a double bar of sand and 
shingle inclosing a large pond. Boughton point, the southeastern end 
of the island, is a cliff of red sandstone 30 feet high, having to the 
southward a rock which dries and shallow water extending southward 
4 mile. Rocky and irregular soundings of 4 to 5 fathoms extend east¬ 
ward 1 mile from the point, which should not be rounded in a less 
depth than 9 fathoms. 

Boughton ledge runs out 200 yards eastward from the sand bar 
northward of Boughton point, and has rocks which always show near 
its outer extreme. 


BOUGHTON OR GRAND RIVER. 


227 


Cardigan bay—Northeastern shore.—A bank, with 3 to 5 
fathoms, extends 1J miles westward of Boughton island, and farther 
westward shoals, together with Boughton spit and Mosquito sands, 
extend along the northeastern shore of Cardigan bay nearty to Mait¬ 
land point at the entrance of Cardigan river. Between these shoals 
and the land to the northward there are narrow and intricate channels 
which lead into Launching bay. This side of the bay should not be 
approached nearer than the low-water depth of 5 fathoms. 

Shallow water extends eastward nearly. 1 mile off Boughton sand 
bar and Bruce point. 

Boughton bay lies between Bruce point and Spry point, which 
bears 73°, 2.6 miles, and in the bay the 3-fathom curve of soundings 
is 1 mile out from the shore. 

Boughton or Grand river, which flows into the northwestern 
part of Boughton bay, has, 1 mile out from its entrance, a dangerous 
bar of sand over which 6 feet, at low water ordinary springs, can be 
carried in a very narrow channel marked out by three buoys. The 
outer buoy is moored in 3 fathoms, the next in 2 fathoms, and the 
inner one in 11 feet, the bar of 6 feet being between the two last. 

At a short distance within the inner buoy the sands on each side 
dry at low water, and the channel is generally visible all the re¬ 
mainder of the way to the entrance, where it passes close round the 
northern point of the long sand bar which stretches across from 
Solander point, on the southern shore, to within 375 yards of Banks 
point, upon which is Annandale village, and a wharf with a front¬ 
age on the channel of 140 feet and a depth of 7 feet at low water. 

Immediately within the entrance the inlet is a mile wide, but the 
channel is divided, narrow, and intricate, and iharked out by stakes 
between sandy shoals for about 1 mile, after which it is clear and 
wide, having 3 to 5 fathoms water to the narrows, 3 miles from the 
entrance. Boats can ascend 3 miles farther, or to the bridge. 

There are flourishing settlements on each side of this extensive 
inlet. Chapel pier, on the southern side of the river, 3 miles within 
the entrance, is 293 feet long and has a depth of 9 feet at its 
outer end. 

Range lights.—A square white tower, 13 feet high, surmounted by 
a red beacon with a white diamond, in Annandale village, at 46°, 100 
yards from the shore end of the wharf, exhibits, at 28 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, on 
and over a small arc on each side of the range line, a distance of 10 
miles. 

A square, white, open-framed lighthouse, slatted, facing the range 
line, 65 feet high, on Juniper point, at about 302°, 400 yards from the 
preceding light, exhibits, at 78 feet above high water, a fixed white 


228 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-EAST COAST. 


light, which should be seen, in clear weather, in the direction of the 
range line, a distance of 14 miles. 

Beacon.—A diamond-shaped white beacon, 13 feet high, stands on 
a sand bank on the northern side of the channel southeastward of the 
front range lighthouse. The bank on which it is situated covers at 
high water, so that the beacon is surrounded by water for 3 to 4 
hours at every high tide. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Annandale wharf, 
Boughton river, at 8h. 40m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 2f feet. The 
rate of the tidal streams in the entrance is 2 knots. 

Directions.—To enter the river bring the range lighthouses in line, 
302°, and keep them so, past the buoys on the bar, until the beacon 
is about 50 feet distant on the starboard bow and until the back light 
is being obscured by the high land in front of the front range tower; 
then steer about 274° until the western end of the wharf is nearly 
in line with the lighthouse on Juniper point, bearing 308°, which 
mark leads to the wharf. Care must be taken not to overrun this 
last bearing, as the middle ground to the southward and southwest- 
ward of the wharf must be avoided. While entering the alignment 
of the lighthouses must be carefully kept, as the fairway inside 
the bar is very narrow at some places. There is good anchorage 
inside the bar on the line of the range lighthouses. 

With an onshore breeze, which causes a breaking sea on the bar. 
the entrance should not be attempted by strangers. 

The coast.—Souris head bears 39°, 6.3 miles from Spry point, 
and between them are Howe bay, into which flows Little river. For¬ 
tune bay and river, and Rollo bay. These are tidal inlets nearly 
barred up with sand, and having streams at their heads; they are 
suitable only for small craft and boats, having 3 to 5 feet over their 
bars at low water. 

A breakwater has been built on the eastern side of Fortune river 
entrance in order to contract the channel and increase the scour over 
the bar at its entrance, so as to deepen the water. There are wharves 
on either side of the river. 

Colville river, a similar inlet, is situated in Colville bay, between 
Souris head and Swanton point, which bears 76°, 1J miles, and in its 
entrance is Souris harbor. Colville bay affords good anchorage with 
offshore winds. 

Sharp cliffy headlands and points of red sandstone separate the 
bays between Spry point and Swanton point, the cliffs being 25 to 50 
feet high, and shallow water not extending off them more than 600 
yards, except at Eglinton point, which separates Eglinton cove from 
Fortune bay, where the reef is shoal for 800 yards out from the shore, 
and continues 1,200 yards farther with a depth of 3 to 4J fathoms 


SOURIS HARBOR. 


229 


over rocky bottom; but this is within the line joining Howe point 
and Souris head, and therefore out of the way of vessels running 
along the coast. 

Souris head is bluff and covered with trees, while the point near 
it is of red sandstone and bare. 

Souris harbor, which is on the eastern side of Colville bay, is im¬ 
portant as a harbor of refuge and place of shipment. A breakwater, 
417 yards long, has been built here in 7 to 22 feet of water. The 
eastern entrance to the harbor is marked by a red flagstaff, and the 
passage up the river for small craft is marked by three black buoys. 

Lights.—A circular red lighthouse, 45 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on Knight point, about 100 yards southeastward of Souris 
breakwater, exhibits at 85 feet above high water, a group flashing 
white light, showing 1 group of 2 flashes every 5 seconds; thus, flash 
0.22 second, eclipse 0.78 second, flash 0.22 second, eclipse 3.78 seconds, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

A skeleton steel tower, 41 feet high, erected on the outer end of 
Souris East breakwater, exhibits at 40 feet above high water a fixed 
red light that should be visible in clear weather, from all points 
seaward, a distance of 7 miles. The tower is square, with sloping 
sides, painted red, surmounted by a white inclosed watch room and 
a red lantern. 

Ice.—The harbor is usually frozen over about January 7, and the 
harbor ice breaks up about May 6; it is completely closed between 
those dates. Field ice arrives about February 1, and disappears be¬ 
tween April 1 and May 1, its departure depending on the prevailing 
winds. The first vessel arrives about April 28, and the last one leaves 
about January 2. % 

Souris is a large village, whose chief industry is fishing, situated 
60 miles northeastward of Charlottetown, on the eastern shore of 
Colville bay, where there are a wharf and three large fish-curing 
stores. The Roman Catholic church of the village is an excellent 
mark. 

Communication.—The village is connected to Charlottetown by 
rail. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Souris. 

The United States is represented by a consular agent. 

A shoal patch, with 10 fathoms water on it, lies southeastward 
8J miles from Souris head. 

Charlow bank, which is not marked on the chart, but was reported 
by fishermen in 1872, has a depth of 17 fathoms over it, and lies east- 
southeastward 8i miles from Souris on the following bearings: East 
point 21°, Souris head 291°. In thick weather it is a good guide. 


230 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—EAST COAST. 


The coast eastward of Colville bay trends northeastward, is 
bold and clear, except Hervev reef, which extends 800 yards from 
Hervey point, and has on it Shallop rock, which is always above 
water. Hervey point is 5 miles from Colville bay, and is the eastern 
point of Hervey cove, in which there are some remarkable and high 
sand hills. At Basin head, 1 mile farther northeastward, the cliffs 
terminate, and sand hills and sand beach form the coast nearly all 
the way to East point, a distance of about 7J miles. East lake is a 
shallow and narrow pond, within the sand bars, extending from 
Basin head to within 2 miles of East point, and having 2 miles from 
the head a narrow outlet, which is nearly dry at low water. Boats 
and small craft enter it for the produce of the country, which is well 
settled. 

East point of Prince Edward island is a cliff of red sandstone 30 
to 60 feet in height, from which a reef runs out 1,400 yards to the 
depth of 3 fathoms, and not quite 1 mile to 5 fathoms. East Point 
lighthouse, in line with the fog-signal building, leads approximately 
over the outer point of the reef. There is frequently a great rippling 
off East point. The depth of 20 fathoms is as near as a vessel should 
approach in thick weather. 

Light.—A white octagonal lighthouse, 60 feet high, with a white 
dwelling near it, at 67 yards within the eastern extreme and 83 yards 
from the southern coast of East point, exhibits, at 100 feet above high 
water, a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy 
every 3 minutes, and should be seen in clear weather from the bear¬ 
ing of 122° through south, west, and north, to 49°, a distance of 15 
miles. Latitude 46° 27' 10" X.. longitude 61° 58' 10" W. 

Eog horn.—During thick or foggy weather a steam horn gives a 
blast of about 5 seconds’ duration every minute. 

The fog-signal building is colored drab, and stands 33 yards east¬ 
ward of the lighthouse. 

Caution is necessary when navigating near East point, as the tidal 
streams are said to be influenced by strong winds and to be irregular 
both in rate and direction. 

Anchorage southward of East point is good with northerly winds 
as far westward as East lake outlet, in a moderate depth of water, 
red sand bottom. Northward of the point the anchorage is not good, 
the ground being either loose or rocky. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at East point at 8h. 
30m.; springs rise 34 feet, neaps 2 feet. 

The tidal streams run at the rate of 24 knots between the northern 
end of Milne bank and the point, but are not’ nearly so strong farther 
westward. 


MILNE BANE. 


281 


The tidal streams set very strongly toward and over East Point 
reef; in September near the reef, the southwest-going stream made 
when the marks on shore indicated about half ebb and continued 
until about half flood, when after a short interval of slack water, the 
northeast-going stream commenced. 

Milne bank is 5} miles long, north and south, and If miles broad, 
within the depth of 10 fathoms, the bottom being of sandstone 
thinly covered here and there with red sand. The soundings are 
irregular, between 6 and 9 fathoms over the northern part of the 
bank; but towards the southern end, and close to the outer edge, 
there is a shallow part, 14 miles in length, on which there are 44 
fathoms at low water springs. This shallowest part of the bank lies 
between 144°, 4f miles and 160°, 5f miles from East point. Souris 
head and Dean point in line, bearing 157°, leads over its northern 
extreme in 5 fathoms; Beaton point, open northward of East point, 
clears it, and Swanton and Chepstow points, bearing 265°, leads just 
southward of it in the same depth, but all these points except East 
point are so distant that very clear weather is required to distinguish 
them. 

The extreme southern end of this bank, in 10 fathoms, bears 159°, 6J 
miles from East point; and the northern extreme 88°, 2 miles. 
Between the northern part of the bank and East point there are 10 
to 114 fathoms, red sand bottom, the deepest water being close to the 
bank. The eastern edge of the bank is steep-to, there being 12 to 15 
fathoms close to it, and there is frequently a great rippling along it, 
caused by the abrupt opposition which it presents to the southwest 
flood stream. The sea is very heavy here, and also off the point, in 
strong northeast gales. 

NORTH COAST OF PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

The great bay formed by the northern coast of Prince Edward 
island is 91 miles wide and 22 miles deep, and it is very difficult to beat 
a ship out of it in the heavy and long-continued northeast gales, 
which frequently occur toward the fall of the year. This difficulty 
seems to be caused either by an acceleration in the rate of the current 
that so frequently runs past cape Gaspe, Bonaventure island, and 
Miscou banks, and doubtless continues farther southward; or by an 
extension of the general southerly set so often experienced between 
Bird island and Anticosti or cape Rosier, and which increases in 
strong northeast winds. 

Tides and tidal streams.—The lateral wave extending off the 
tidal undulation which passes southward of Anticosti, turns toward 
Chaleur bay and Miramichi, then passing southeastward along the 
north coast of Prince Edward, and causing the time of high water at 


232 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND—NORTH COAST. 


full and change to become later in succession, in proceeding from 
North point to Cascumpeque, Malpeque, Grenville bay, Rustico, Tra- 
cadie, and toward East point. 

The set of the tidal streams may be very unfavorable to a vessel 
endeavoring to work out of the bay, for the flood stream sets south¬ 
ward into it, in conformity with the progress of the reflux tide wave, 
from North point southeastward to St. Peter, while farther eastward 
the flood or southwest-going stream, which comes from between Mag¬ 
dalen islands and Cape Breton island, also sets toward the shore, 
especially near East point. 

The ebb streams appear to set in the opposite directions. 

The tidal streams meet and separate northward of St. Peter harbor. 

Anchorage.—With the exception of a few places off the bars of 
the harbors, the anchorage is, generally speaking, very bad all along 
the northern coast of the island, the bottom being red sandstone, 
thinly covered occasionally with sand, gravel, and broken shells. 

Harbors.—The harbors all have narrow entrances between sand 
bars, with dangerous shoals of sand at various distances from the 
shore. They are suitable only for small vessels, with the exception of 
Malpeque bay and Cascumpeque, and even those could not be safely 
approached in bad weather and with a heavy sea, when the breakers 
on their bars extend quite across, leaving no visible channel. Besides 
the coasting vessels calling for produce, these harbors are frequently 
visited by American schooners requiring wood and water, or shelter on 
the approach of bad weather. 

The coast from East point to St. Peter harbor, a distance of 33 
miles westward, is unbroken, and formed of red sandstone cliffs, with 
occasional patches of sandy beach at the mouths of small streams, 
where boats can land only in fine weather or with offshore winds. 
Surveyor pond, 4 miles from East point, is closed with sand. At 
Surveyor pond there are high sand hills, after which there are none 
until the beginning of the magnificent range of sand hills which con¬ 
tinues westward for several miles to St. Peter harbor, near the en¬ 
trance of which it attains a height of TO feet. 

Shallow water does not extend beyond 4 mile anywhere off this 
coast, and there are in general 10 fathoms within 1 mile of the land, 
the bottom being sandstone and the anchorage bad. 

Campbell cove, on the northern coast of the island about 8 miles 
from East point, has a breakwater on its western side, which shelters 
a small area carrying a depth of 4 feet at low water. This place is 
much used in the farming and fishing industries of the district. 

St. Peter harbor, usually called St. Peter bay, is of great extent, 
running in east-southeastward T miles, with a depth in places of 3 
fathoms, but it is suitable only for small vessels, as there is a depth 


ST. PETER HARBOR-SAVAGE HARBOR. 


238 


of only 5 feet over its bar of sand at low water. The outer edge of 
the bar, in 3 fathoms, is only 1,400 yards from the shore. 

On the western side of the entrance there is a breakwater, 226 feet 
long, having its inner end connected with high ground by a beach- 
protection work 1,420 feet long. 

The range lighthouses in line lead over the bar in a depth of about 
5 feet. 

The best channel is marked by buoys. The channel is liable to 
shift in heavy gales, and there is a sharp turn to the eastward imme¬ 
diately within the entrance; it is a very dangerous place, and no at¬ 
tempt must be made to enter it by strangers, and even by those having 
local knowledge only in fine weather. 

Morrell river enters the southwestern side of this harbor 3 miles 
within the entrance, and is navigable for boats for 3 miles inland. 
Several smaller streams enter the harbor on the same side, and St. 
Peter river enters its head: all these are mere brooks at the head of 
the tide. 

The shores of the harbor are well settled, and there is a church on 
the eastern shore near the head of the harbor and another with a 
white steeple to the westward. 

In 1901 the population of the town was 1,168. 

There is a railway station at St. Peter. 

Range lights.—A square, white lighthouse, 35 feet high, at 40 feet 
from the outer end of the breakwater on the western side of the chan¬ 
nel to St. Peter harbor, exhibits at 34 feet above high water a fixed 
white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 6 
miles. 

A square, white lighthouse, 33 feet high, on the sand beach at 167° 
486 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 32 feet above 
high water a fixed white light which should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 6 miles. 

This, the inner, light is shifted as the bar alters; and the lights in 
line lead over the bar in a depth of about 5 feet. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in St. Peter harbor at 
6h. 30m. approximately; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2J feet. The rate 
of the tidal streams in the narrow entrance to St, Peter harbor is 
nearly 3 knots, and at times the ebb reaches 4 knots. 

Savage harbor, 3 miles farther westward, has 5 feet at low water 
over its bar; as the tidal rise is 2 to 3 feet, it is suitable only for fish¬ 
ing boats or very small craft. The church here is a good landmark. 
Just westward of its entrance there is some shallow water of 4J fath¬ 
oms, rock bottom, nearly 1J miles from the shore. The distance across 
from the head of this harbor, which runs inland 3 miles, to the head 
of Hillsborough river is less than 1 mile, and there is a road between 


234 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-NORTH COAST. 


Range lights.—A mast, 20 feet high, with a brown shed at its 
base, on McEachern’s farm near the western edge of-the inner shore 
of the harbor, exhibits at 22 feet above high water a fixed white light 
that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 5 miles. This light 
is liable to be moved to suit the changes in the channel. 

A mast, 25 feet high, with a brown shed at its base, and situated 
150°, 110 yards from the preceding light, exhibits at 30 feet above 
high water a fixed white light that should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 5 miles. 

Directions.—The lightmasts in line leads to a black and white 
striped buoy moored in mid-channel and in 12 feet water just outside 
the bar. Pass this buoy and open the lightmasts about a point on the 
starboard bow, until the inner fairway buoy is reached, when leave 
the range and steer about 100° for 4 mile and then steer directly for 
the outer light, to the fishing stakes. 

Tracadie harbor, or Bedford bay, 9 miles westward of Savage 
harbor, has its entrance at the western end of a remarkable range of 
sand hills 50 or 60 feet high. The bar of sand, which shifts occasion¬ 
ally in heavy gales, extends f mile from the entrance, and has a depth 
of 5 feet over it at low water, in a channel only 80 yards wide. The 
place, therefore, is suitable only for small vessels, and favorable 
weather is necessary for them to take the bar with safety. The har¬ 
bor is 3 miles wide within the sand bar. and carries 24 fathoms water; 
it runs in 4 miles to the southward, and sends off to the westward a 
branch called Winter creek. The head of the harbor approaches to 14 
miles from Hillsborough river, to which there is a good road. 

There is a railway station at Tracadie. but it is about 5 miles 
within the entrance. 

Range lights.—A brown square open framework lighthouse, 22 
feet high, with a white lantern, on the beach on the western side of 
Tracadie harbor entrance, and 600 yards within the shore-line, ex¬ 
hibits, at 19 feet above high water, a fixed red light which should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 26 feet high, situated 179°, 400 yards 
from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 24 feet above high water, 
a fixed red light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
8 miles. 

The towers are moved as the channel shifts. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of 
Tracadie harbor at 7h. 0m.; springs rise 34 feet, neaps 2 feet; but the 
level of the water varies according to the directions of the wind. The 
rate of the tidal streams in the entrance is about 2 knots. 

Directions.—The lights in line lead past the buoys, leaving the 
buoy outside the bar on the starboard hand, the buoy inside the bar 


CAPE STANHOPE-RUSTICO HARBORS. 


235 


on the port hand, and the red spar buoy on the western bend of the 
channel on the starboard hand. 

The channel is intricate and liable to change, consequently it must 
not be attempted without recent local knowledge, nor with onshore 
winds. 

Cape Stanhope, on which there is a sand hill 30 feet high, is about 
4J miles west-northwestward of Tracadie harbor entrance; it 
has a reef running out § mile from it to the depth of 3 fathoms, and 
1 mile to 5 fathoms; on parts of this reef there is only 1 foot of 
water \ mile from the shore. 

The coast between cape Stanhope and cape Turner, 9 miles west- 
northwest/ward forms a curve or bay, where the 3 fathoms edge of 
shallow water is seldom less than f mile offshore, and in which are 
the entrances of Rustico harbors. Outside the shallow water the 
holding ground is bad, being red sandstone, with an occasional thin 
covering of sand. 

Cove head bay is about J mile westward of cape Stanhope, and 
within its entrance, which at low water is about 250 feet wide, the 
bay is about 4 miles in length, and from ^ mile to 1 mile in width. 
It receives the waters of Black river, and of Mill, Aulds and Mc- 
Callums creeks. The bay is navigable over most of its extent for 
small vessels, but the depth on the outer bar is only 3J feet at low 
water. The harbor proper commences immediately inside the en¬ 
trance, and extends westward between the sand beach and what was 
an extensive sand flat, dry at about half tide. 

Range lights.—A lantern on a mast, IT feet high, on the sand 
beach at the entrance of Cove head bay, exhibits, at 18 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 3 miles. 

A lantern on a mast, 27 feet high, 200 yards south-southwestward 
of the preceding light, exhibits, at 25 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 
3 miles. 

The back light is moved to suit the changes in the channel; and 
the lights in line lead over the bar. 

Rustico harbors have two narrow sandy entrances, one on each 
side of McAuslin island, and situated 4 and miles, respectively, 
westward of cape Stanhope'. They are suitable only for small ves¬ 
sels, because their shifting bars of sand are extremely dangerous, hav¬ 
ing a depth varying from 4 to 8 feet, and extending out f mile from 
the shore to the depth of 3 fathoms at low water. The line of deepest 
water over each of these bars is pointed out by two buoys, the posi¬ 
tions of which are changed as required. 

Wheatley and Hunter rivers, which are navigable for boats to the 
distance of 5 miles inland, and Winter creek lying between them, run 


236 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-NORTH COAST. 

into this shallow place, which extends 4 miles along the coast within 
the sand bars of Brackley point and McAuslin island. 

There are extensive settlements on the shores of these harbors of 
Acadians and others, and there are two churches with steeples on the 
western side of Winter creek; from the eastward these churches do 
not open out till near the harbor, which may be recognized by some 
remarkable hummocks in its vicinity. 

South or Little Rustico harbor is situated within the entrance 
at the eastern end of McAuslin island. There is a pier near the 
mouth of Wheatley river. 

North or Grand Rustico harbor, the entrance of which is at the 
western end of McAuslin island, is one of the most important fishing 
stations on Prince Edward island. In order to improve the channel, 
works have been constructed on each side of the entrance, and there 
is now a depth of 8 feet at low water on the bar. Most of the fishing 
houses and stages are situated on the inner low beach. 

Main light.—A square white lighthouse, 35 feet high, with a 
dwelling attached, on .the beach inside the breakwater at Grand 
Rustico, exhibits at 36 feet above high water a fixed white light, 
which should be seen from seaward, in clear weather, a distance of 
8 miles. 

Range lights.—A lantern on a mast, 20 feet high, on the edge of 
the pilework on the western side of the harbor entrance, exhibits at 
22 feet above high water a fixed red light, visible on the range line, 
in clear weather, a distance of 5 miles. 

A lantern on a mast, 38 feet high, 121°, 102 yards from the preced¬ 
ing light, exhibits, at 40 feet above high water, a fixed red light, 
visible on the range line, in clear weather, a distance of 5 miles. 

The positions of the masts are subject to alteration to suit the chan¬ 
nel ; and the lights in line lead over the bar in the deepest water. 

Beacon.—A white mast, 25 feet high, with a diamond-shaped 
slatted beacon at its head, on the outer end of the breakwater, indi¬ 
cates the position of the latter, but it can not be otherwise used as a 
guide. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Grand Rustico harbor 
at 6h. 40m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet. The rate of the tidal 
streams in the entrance is 2 knots. 

Directions.—The two light masts, or their red lights, in line 
121°, lead over the bar outside the mouth of the harbor in the 
deepest water and clear of the breakwater. Local knowledge is 
necessary. 

Cape Turner, 2f miles north-northwestward of Grand Rustico 
harbor entrance, is 120 feet high, of red sandstone and conglomerate, 
being the highest cliff on the island. 


GRENVILLE OR NEW LONDON HARBOR. 237 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at cape Turner at 
6h. 10m.; springs rise 4 feet, neaps 2 feet. 

Grenville or New London harbor entrance is 6} miles west¬ 
ward from cape Turner, and at the northwestern end of a long 
range of sand hills, the highest of which is 55 feet above high 
water. The entrance is about 400 yards wide, but the harbor is 
about 3 miles long and nearly as wide; it receives the waters of Hope, 
Southwest, Stanley, and French rivers, all of which are navigable 
for short distances, and have wharf accommodation from which large 
quantities of farm produce are exported; the districts around the 
harbor being well cultivated and very productive. The harbor is 
largely used as a harbor of refuge and also as a fishing station, the 
fishing grounds in the vicinity being considered the best in the gulf 
of St. Lawrence. 

The entrance is obstructed by a shifting sand bar, and breakwaters 
or beach protection works have been constructed on each side in 
order to preserve the beaches and increase the scour across the sand¬ 
bar. The depth of water was 9J feet over the bar in 1904, and is 6 
feet in the harbor, at low water. The bar extends out 1,400 yards 
from the entrance, and shallow water extends out one mile, at which 
distance there are 5 fathoms over sand bottom. 

New London, where the English church, having a steeple, and the 
Scotch church are situated, on the western shore 1J miles within the 
entrance, is the chief settlement. 

Range lights.—A square white lighthouse with a brown lantern, 
35 feet high, and with a dwelling attached, on the beach at the west¬ 
ern side of Grenville harbor entrance, exhibits, at 45 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which should be seen seaward, in clear 
weather, a distance of 7 miles. This lighthouse is 500 yards 202° 
from the following range lighthouse, and is a coast light. 

A square white lighthouse on a brown framework, 21 feet high, 
on the outer end of the breakwater on the northwestern side of Gren¬ 
ville harbor, exhibits, at 24 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on 
each side of, the range line, a distance of 10 miles. 

This range light is changed to suit alterations in the channel and 
the lights in line lead over the bar. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Grenville harbor at 
6h. 10m. by the mean of the a. m. and p. m. tides; the a. m. tide being 
the earlier and higher during summer; springs rise 3^ feet, neaps 2 
feet; easterly winds raise the level of the water. 

Directions.—No attempt should be made to enter the harbor with¬ 
out a pilot, except by those possessing local knowledge. Buoys at 
the entrance of the harbor mark the channel and indicate the best 


238 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-NORTH COAST. 

water into the harbor during daylight. The lights in line, bearing 
202°, lead over the bar in past Simms point. 

Cape Tryon, 1J miles northwestward of Grenville harbor en¬ 
trance, is a remarkable cliff of red sandstone, rising to the height of 
110 feet. 

Light.—A white rectangular building, with a red octagonal lan¬ 
tern on the northern part of its roof, 37 feet high, and situated on 
the extremity of cape Tryon, exhibits, at 106 feet above high water, 
a flashing white light, giving 1 bright flash of 0.64 second duration, 
every 5 seconds, thus, flash 0.64 second, eclipse 4.36 seconds, which 
should be seen in all directions seaward, in clear weather, a distance 
of 16 miles. 

The coast from cape Tryon to cape Aylesbury, which bears 287°, 
7 miles from it, is nearly straight and unbroken; but shallow water 
runs out a considerable distance, and it should not be closed to a depth 
less than 7 fathoms. 

Malpeque bay, the principal entrance to which is between cape 
Aylesbury and Billhook island, 1J miles west-northwestward, is of 
great extent, running across the island to within 2J miles of Bedeque 
harbor, and also west-northwestward for the distance of 10 miles. It 
contains seven islands and a great number of creeks or rivers, some 
of which are navigable by vessels of considerable size, and all of them 
by small craft and boats. Grand river, the chief of these inlets, can 
be ascended 7-J miles by boats. There is a depth of 12 feet at low 
water springs over the outer bar, situated about a mile northward of 
cape Aylesbury. 

Malpeque harbor.—The principal entrance, or Ship channel, to 
the bay is southward of Billhook or Fish island, and between it and 
Royalty sand, which dries out mile from Royalty point. The 
Ship channel is southeastward of all the sand bars, including Bill¬ 
hook island, and between them and the red sandstone cliffs of cape 
Aylesbury. The ground is good in Malpeque harbor, which is the 
usual anchorage and situated just within this entrance, where there is 
space and depth enough for a large number of vessels, the bar outside 
preventing any sea from coming in, and Horseshoe shoals sheltering 
it from westerly winds down the bay. 

West gully, the entrance northwestward of Billhook island, is so 
narrow and intricate as to be suitable only for boats, or very small 
craft, although it has a depth of 9 feet over its dangerous bar of sand, 
which is 1£ miles out from the shore. 

Darnley Point range lights.—A square white open framed light¬ 
house, slatted, facing line of range, 25 feet high, near the coast at 
1,250 yards east-southeastward of cape Aylesbury, exhibits, at 40 
feet above high water, a fixed red light. 


MALPEQUE BAY. 


239 


A similar lighthouse 191°, 447 yards from the preceding lighthouse, 
exhibits, at 65 feet above high water, a fixed red light. 

These lights are visible over an arc of 22^° on each side of their 
alignment and also over the north bar to the west-northwestward, and 
should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 7 miles, but their power 
decreases as the line of range is departed from. 

I he lights in line 191° lead to the black can buoy in the ship chan¬ 
nel on the bar, where this range line intersects that of the Fish Island 
range lights. 

Fish Island range lights.—A white open framed lighthouse, 22 
feet high, on the southeastern end of Billhook or Fish island, exhibits, 
at 18 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 6 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 46 feet high, with dwelling attached, 
on Billhook island, at 275°, 400 yards from the preceding lighthouse, 
and on the northern side of entrance to Malpeque harbor, exhibits, at 
50 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. This light is a coast light. 

These lights in line and ranging with the fairway buoy inside the 
bar lead from the intersection of their range line with that of the 
Darnley Point range, over the bar in 15 feet, to the fairway buoy 
inside the bar, whence the channel is marked by the harbor buoys. 

Darnley Basin range lights.—A white open framed lighthouse, 
15 feet high, on the western shore of Darnley basin, exhibits, at 55 feet 
above high water, a fixed green light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 3 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, 21 feet high, situated 168°, 120 yards from 
the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 64 feet above high water, a fixed 
green light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 3 
miles. 

These lights are visible in the direction of their alignment and 
should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 3 miles. They lead 
into Darnley basin, but strangers should not attempt the entrance. 

Buoys.—A black can buoy is moored southeastward of the bar 
with the lighthouses southeastward of cape Aylesbury in line. There 
is a fairway buoy inside the bar, whence the channel is marked by 
buoys. 

Ice.—Malpeque bay is usually frozen over about the middle of 
December, and the ice in the bay breaks up about April 1; at that 
time field ice drives this ice back, and the bay is not clear until May 1. 
The first vessel arrives about the middle of May, and the last one 
leaves about the middle of December. 

The bar of the Ship channel runs out about 79° nearly 2 miles 
from Billhook island, and then turns southward to the shore eastward 


240 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-NORTH COAST. 


of cape Ajdesbury. It is sandstone thinly and unevenly covered with 
sand, but the rock in many places is quite bare; therefore, it is exceed¬ 
ingly dangerous in bad weather, when all signs of a channel are 
obliterated by heavy breakers. The northern part of the bar for 1-J 
miles out eastward from Billhook island, is very shallow, there being 
some patches of only 4 feet at low water; but Malpeque church and 
Darnley point in line, bearing 191°, leads southeastward of this shal¬ 
low part. 

The narrowest part of the ship channel just within, or westward of 
the above mark, is 200 yards wide, and carries 3 to 4 fathoms water, 
but there is a 13-foot patch between the outer and inner bars. The 
inner bar, of sandstone and with 19 feet at low water, is £ mile further 
in, and there is usually a fairway buoy upon it. 

Anchorage.—There is temporary anchorage outside the bar, in 
5 to 7 fathoms, sand bottom; and should the wind or tide fail, the 
anchorage between the inner bar and the entrance is considered 
tolerably safe with any wind that would prevent a sailing vessel from 
running in, but the holding ground is not good there, and must not 
be trusted except in fine summer weather. Within Malpeque harbor, 
at the anchorage, where the deepest water is off the northern end of 
Royalty sand, the bottom is sand and clay in 3 to 10 fathoms. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Malpeque harbor at 
6h. 0m.; springs rise 3 feet, neaps 2 feet, but the rise is irregular, 
and a rise of 2 feet is all that can be depended on. Northeasterly 
winds raise the level of the water; westerly winds lower it. The a. m. 
tides are the highest in summer. The tidal streams are strongest in 
the entrance and off Royalty sand, where they attain a rate of 2J 
knots at springs; in Ship channel, from the entrance to the inner 
bar, the rate is 1J to 2 knots. Within the bay the streams are usually 
much weaker and seldom reach 1 knot. 

Directions.—The bar has shifted since it was surveyed, and the 
chart and the buoys are not to be depended on; no attempt should be 
made to cross the bar without a pilot, or without an examination of 
the bar if a pilot can not be obtained. To enter, bring the light¬ 
houses southeastward of cape Aylesbury in line, 191°, while outside 
the bar, and keep this range on until Billhook Island or Fish Island 
lighthouses are in line, 275°, when the vessel will be near the outer 
bar buoy. Keep Billhook Island lighthouses in line as far as the 
inner fairway buoy, above which the channel is marked by harbor 
buoys. 

Local knowledge is required to enter Darnley basin. 

Settlements.—Malpeque, on the neck of land between Darnley 
basin and March water, and southward 2 miles from Darnley point, 
is one of the oldest settlements on the island; its church, to the east- 


MALPEQUE BAY—CASCUMPEQUE BAY. 241 

ward of which there is a Roman Catholic college with two spires, is 
an excellent mark. 

There are fine setlements at Grand river, and also at Port Hill, in 
the northwestern part of the bay within Lennox island, upon which 
there is an Indian church and settlement, but they are not visible 
from the sea. There are also large settlements at the head of the bay, 
where St. Eleanor and Miscouche churches are on the ridge which 
separates the bay from Northumberland strait. 

Supplies.—Fresh provisions can be obtained at Malpeque; but 
considerable time is required to obtain a quantity of water, as it is 
procured from wells. 

The coast from the southeastern end of Billhook island to Cas- 
cuinpeque harbor entrance, which is 19 J miles northwestward, is 
formed of sand bars and sand beaches, from which shallow water 
extends about § mile to 3 fathoms, and 1 mile to 5 fathoms. Between 
Billhook island and Cascumpeque harbor there are two openings 
through the sand bars, Conway and Cavendish inlets, which afford 
shelter to boats, and are distant 9 miles and 13 miles, respectively, 
from the southeastern end of Billhook island. 

Boats can enter Malpeque bay by Conway inlet, passing westward 
of Lennox island at high water. 

Little Channel range lights.—Two fixed white range lights are 
exhibited, at 26 and 16 feet above high water, from white light¬ 
houses, the front one open framework, 30 and 20 feet high, and 66 
yards apart, on the northwestern side of Conway inlet entrance, 
which should be seen in clear weather distances of 10 and 8 miles. 
The position of the outer light is altered to meet changes in the 
channel. 

Note.— These lighthouses in line lead through the channel, in 5 
feet water; but there is a ballast heap in their alignment at the point 
of the southern sand hill, to pass which the front light must be opened 
to the northward. 

Cascumpeque bay, within the sand bars, is of great extent and 
broken into inlets or rivers, which penetrate the country in several 
directions and for many miles. At high water there are boat channels 
southward to Malpeque bay and northward to Kildare river. Cas¬ 
cumpeque narrows, a shallow stretch of water, 4 mile to 1 mile in 
width, lying between the sand dunes and the sand bars that extend 
nearly parallel with the coast of the island, connects Malpeque and 
Cascumpeque bays. 

There is an entrance into the bay, which has 5 feet over its bar, 
about 2 miles southward of the harbor entrance, for which it can not 
be mistaken because of its nearness to the high sand hills and the 
absence of a lighthouse, but there is shoal water inside it. 

50918—08 - 16 


242 


PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND-NORTH COAST. 


Cascumpeque harbor, which is much used as a harbor of refuge 
by coasters and fishermen, is of considerable extent, with a good depth 
of water, and sheltered from all winds; but its approach is obstructed 
by an outlying and shifting sand bar. 

A ridge of remarkable sand hills, 50 feet high, forms the coast 3J 
miles southward of its entrance. 

The entrance to the harbor is 375 yards wide, between two sand bars 
resting upon sandstone, which forms the inner bar, over which there 
are 10 feet at low water. The outer bar, of sand, lying 1^ miles out 
from the entrance, usually has, at its best, a depth of only 10 feet at 
low water, in a very narrow channel; and even this depth is sometimes 
reduced, possibly owing to breaches that occur in the sand beaches. 
In easterly gales the bar is covered with continuous heavy breakers. 

The channel, from the outer to the inner bar, is 200 yards wide, be¬ 
tween sand banks covered by only a few feet of water, and which at 
the entrance are dry at low water. Within the entrance the harbor 
has plenty of water and a clear channel, which, after running in 
west-southwestward 1 mile, turns southward behind Savage island. 

From 1 to 3 miles from the entrance of the harbor breaches have re¬ 
cently occurred in the beaches, and injury to the harbor is feared: 
and it is doubtful if permanent closing of the breaches is possible 
without very extensive works of protection. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 46 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, on the inner face of the sand hills on the southern side of 
Cascumpeque harbor entrance, exhibits, at 48 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, from all 
directions a distance of 12 miles. 

Sandy Island range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 22 feet 
high, on the southeastern side of Sandy island, exhibits, at 20 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, on, and over a small arc on each side of, the range line a 
distance of 9 miles. 

A square white open framed tower, slatted toward channel, 26 
feet high, 263°, 120 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, 
at 24 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen 
in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side of, the range 
line a distance of 10 miles. These lights in line lead from the bar to 
the intersection of their range line with that of the Northport lights. 

FTorthport range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 29 feet 
high, at Northport, on the bank 170 yards westward of the railway 
wharf, exhibits, at 31 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which 
should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each 
side of, the range line a distance of 3 miles. 


CASCUMPEQUE HARBOR. 


243 


A square white lighthouse, 41 feet high, at 250°, 375 yards from 
the preceding light, exhibits, at 42 feet above high water, a fixed red 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, on, and over a small arc 
on each side of, the range line a distance of 3 miles. These lights in 
line lead from the intersection of their range line with that of Sandy 
Island range lights, directly up the harbor. 

Buoy.—A conical red buoy is moored in 29 feet water off the outer 
bar at the entrance to Cascumpeque harbor, with the lighthouse on 
the southern side of the entrance bearing 247°, distant 14 miles nearly. 
The buoy bears the word “ Cascumpeque ” in white letters. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Cascumpeque harbor 
at 5h. 40m.; springs rise 3 feet, neaps 2 feet, but the tidal rise is irreg¬ 
ular; and therefore 13 feet on the bar is all that can be safely reck¬ 
oned on except in strong easterly winds which raise the level of the 
water a foot or more in this harbor, as they do in all the harbors of 
this coast. 

Caution.—The rate of the tidal streams in the entrance of Cas- 
cumpeque harbor is usually 1^ knots, but it frequently is over 4 knots. 

Ice.—The harbor is usually frozen over about January 3, and 
is clear of harbor ice about April 6, being completely closed between 
those dates; field ice drifts in about January 4, and disappears about 
May 10. The first vessel arrives about April 28, and the last leaves 
about December 20. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage off the bar in fine weather 
in 6 fathoms, sand; and tolerable anchorage in the channel between 
the outer and inner bars in 2^ to 3J fathoms, sand. There is good 
anchorage in the channel within the entrance in about 3 to 5 fathoms. 

Directions.—The channel over the bar constantly shifts, and no 
attempt must be made to enter without a pilot, except by those pos¬ 
sessing recent local knowledge. To enter at present, approach with 
the main lighthouse on the southern side of the harbor entrance, or 
its light, bearing 253°, until the range lighthouses or their lights on 
Sandy island are in line 263°. Keep this range on and steer over the 
bar in 10 feet water, until the range lighthouses or their lights at 
Northport are in line, which range leads directly up the harbor. 

Caution.—Care must be taken not to overrun the line of the 
Northport range, as its intersection, with- that of the Sandy Island 
range, is very close to the shoal off Kildare point. 

Alberton, a small town, rising in importance, is situated on the 
northern shore of Cascumpeque harbor. The churches, courthouse, 
and buildings generally are of wood and painted white. 

There is a station of the Prince Edward Island railway here, which 
has a branch to the deep water wharf, with sidings, freight house, 


244 PKINCE EDWABD ISLAND-NOETH COAST. 

etc., on the shore of the harbor, whence an extensive traffic is carried 
on during seasons of shipment. 

Northport lies southward of Alberton. 

The coast from Cascumpeque harbor entrance trends north- 
northeastward 5 miles to cape Kildare, and thence northward 11 
miles to North point. Along this coast there are no high sand hills 
nor other prominent features northeastward of Cascumpeque harbor. 

Generally there are rocky and irregular soundings of 3 to 5 
fathoms, all along this coast, frequently extending nearly 2 miles off¬ 
shore. Shallow water extends 1.4 miles off cape Kildare, which is 
a cliff of red sandstone 30 feet high, having the land about it red 
and surmounted by clumps of trees, and about a mile northward of 
Tignish river entrance a rocky ledge with only 3 fathoms on it at 
low water runs off to the distance of 1.3 miles. 

Tignish harbor, affording shelter to fishing boats, is at the mouth 
of Tignish river, which flows into the sea 4J miles northward of cape 
Kildare. On each side of the mouth of the river the coast is quite 
straight for a long distance and gales from northeast to southeast 
throw in a very heavy -sea, which acting on the sand beaches fre¬ 
quently causes the entrance to be completely closed, until it is 
broken through on the occasion of a freshet or an unusually high 
tide. Works have been constructed on each side of the river’s mouth, 
contracting it to the width of 40 yards, with the effect of increasing 
the current and giving a better depth of water. 

At Tignish, situated about 1 mile inland from the river entrance, 
there is a fishing village, with two churches, a new one of brick 
standing 1 mile eastward of the other, and forming with its spire one 
of the best landmarks in the vicinity, visible from both sides of the 
island. 

Lights.—A square lighthouse, 33 feet high, painted white with 
a black horizontal band, on the beach at the inner end of the northern 
breakwater pier, exhibits, at 35 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

A mast, 14 feet high, with a white shed at its base, on the outer 
end of the northern breakwater pier, and 107°, 207 yards from the 
preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 18 feet above high water, a fixed 
red light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 5 miles. 

The lights in line 107° lead in between the breakwaters. The 
outer light also shows the end of the pier and is for the convenience 
of small vessels only. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Tignish. 


CHAPTER VI. 


PROVINCES OF NEW BRUNSWICK AND QUEBEC-GULF OF ST. 

LAWRENCE, WEST SHORE-MIRAMICHI BAY TO GASPlS BAY- 

ESCUMINAC POINT TO CAPE GASPE-CHALEURS BAY. 

Variation in 1908. 

Escuiuiiiac point_23° 25' W. Birch point_24° 37' W. 

Traeadie South gully_24° 00' W. Cape Gaspe_25° 25' W. 

Dalhousie, bay of Chaleurs__ 23° 30' W. 

New Brunswick. 

The coast.—The lighthouse on Birch point, Miscou island, entrance 
to Chaleurs bay, bears approximately 17°, distant 57 miles from the 
lighthouse on Escuminac point. The intermediate coast is low and 
wooded, with sand bars and beaches,, often inclosing shallow lagoons, 
through which the rivers flow into the sea. The entrances of these 
lagoons and rivers through the sand bars, which are usually termed 
gullies locally, are generally difficult to reach, because of the shifting 
bars of sand off their mouths. They all afford shelter to boats, and 
some of them to small craft, but the only harbor for shipping is at 
Mir ami chi. 

As there are no detached shoals off this coast, it may be safely ap¬ 
proached to 10 fathoms water at night, and to 6 fathoms by day. 
Nevertheless, caution must be observed because shoal water extends 
a considerable distance from the shore in several places. 

Escuminac point, the southeastern point of Miramiclii bay, is of 
peat, upon a very low sandstone cliff, and wooded with spruce trees, 
which form a very dark ground for the white lighthouse on it, 
rendering it very conspicuous. Strangers have great difficulty in 
distinguishing one point of this low coast from another, and the 
lighthouse is a most useful landmark. 

Light.—An octagonal white tower, 69 feet high, with a dwelling 
near it, on Escuminac point, exhibits, at 70 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance 
of 14 miles. 

Fog signal.—A diaplione trumpet, operated by compressed air, 
situated in a building 80 yards northwestward of the lighthouse, 
gives 1 blast of 4 seconds’ duration, every 41 seconds, in thick or 

245 







246 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


foggy weather. The fog-signal building has a high brick chimney, 
and is painted white, with a red roof. 

Signal station.—There is a telegraph and signal station at the 
lighthouse. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Escuminac point. 

Escuminac reef extends north-northeastward 2 miles from the 
lighthouse to the depth of 3 fathoms, and 2j miles to 5 fathoms at 
low water. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy is moored in 5 fathoms water on the 
outer edge of the shoal ground off Escuminac point, with Escuminac 
lighthouse bearing 200°, distant 2J miles. 

Miramichi bay is nearly 14 miles wide from Escuminac point to 
the sand bars of Blackland point, and 6^ miles deep from the line 
across its mouth between those points to the main entrance of the 
Miramichi river, between Portage and Fox islands. The bay is 
formed by a semicircular range of low sandy islands, between which 
there are three small passages and one main or ship channel, leading 
into the inner bay or estuary of the Miramichi river. 

The southern shore of the bay from Escuminac point trends west¬ 
ward miles to Huckleberry gully, and is low. 

Several lobster factories have been built between Escuminac point 
and Escuminac village, the most conspicuous b£ing at Herring cove 
and Winter portage, distant 1 and 2 miles, respectively, from Escu¬ 
minac lighthouse. 

The Roman Catholic church, westward of Escuminac village, has 
a square tower, and is conspicuous from the northeastward viewed 
from northward of Escuminac point. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph station at Escuminac 
village about 3-J miles westward of Escuminac point. 

Lights—Preston Beach range.—A square white tower with a 
red lantern, 29 feet high, on Preston beach about 5 miles westward of 
Escuminac point, exhibits, at 47 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, wdiich should be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

A red skeleton tower, the upper part of which is inclosed, and 
painted white, 58 feet high, with red lantern, situated 139°, 268 yards 
from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 59 feet above high water a 
fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
10 miles. 

The lights in line lead from Bar buoy through ship channel east¬ 
ward of Lump buoy, and of course form a back range. 

Huckleberry island is 33 feet above high water and 1 mile long, 
west-northwest and east-southeast. 

Huckleberry gully, between the mainland and the island, and Fox 
gully, between Huckleberry and Fox islands, are almost dry at low 


FOX ISLAND. 


247 


water, Fox gully being difficult to distinguish. They are both suita¬ 
ble only for boats or very small craft, and the channels leading west¬ 
ward from them, up a branch of the main bay within Huckleberry 
island, or across to French river and village (where there is a wooden 
church somewhat resembling a barn in appearance), are narrow and 
intricate, between flats of sand, mud, and eel grass, with sufficient 
water only for boats. 

Buoy.—A red can buoy is moored in 1J fathoms water on the 
northwestern side of the entrance to Huckleberry gully, with the 
southeastern point of Huckleberry island bearing 236°, distant 1,200 
yards. 

Fox island is 3f miles long, northwest and southeast, narrow and 
partly wooded; its surface is composed of parallel ridges of sand 
hills, which contain imbedded drift timber. Since 1857 the northern 
part of the island has been washing away. 

Lights—Swashway range.—Two white square skeleton wood 
towers, with horizontal slatwork seawards, are erected on Fox 
island. 

The front tower, 46 feet high, 1-J miles from the southern end 
of the island, on ground 6 feet above the sea and 100 feet back from 
the eastern coast, exhibits, at 47 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen in clear weather, on, and over a small 
arc on each side of, the range line, a distance of 12 miles. 

The back tower, 71 feet high, at 260°, 407 yards from the front 
light, exhibits, at 72 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side 
of, the range line, a distance of 14 miles. 

The lights in line 260° lead from the outer bay through the swash- 
way, in not less than 2f fathoms water, to the buoys in ship channel. 

At the northwestern part of Fox island three fixed white lights 
are exhibited from three white masts, 40, 38, and 28 feet high, with 
white sheds at their bases. White day marks are attached to the 
masts. The lights should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
8 miles. 

No. 1 light is 610 yards from the northwest point of the island and 
47 feet above high water. 

No. 2 light is 118°, 350 yards from No. 1 and 46 feet above high 
water. 

No. 3 light is 222°, 318 yards from No. 1 and 36 feet above high 
water. 

Nos. 1 and 2 lights in line, back range 118°, lead into Old Horse¬ 
shoe channel. 

Nos. 1 and 3 lights in line, 222°, lead through Portage Island 
channel. 


248 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Nos. 2 and 3 lights in line, back range 83°, lead to the upper buoy 
of Horseshoe shoal. 

Portage island is 4J miles long, north and south, narrow, low, and 
partly wooded with small spruce trees and bushes. From a distance 
the island shows in three parts, composed of clumps of trees 61 feet 
high, with marshes between. There are' several conspicuous houses 
on the island; the most prominent, a lobster factory, with dwellings 
attached, is on the eastern coast, about 1J miles from the southern 
end of the island; a similar group of buildings is on the western 
coast, at the same distance from the northern end. 

Fox and Portage islands are merely sand bars on a large scale, and 
are not more than 50 feet above the sea; though they are incapable 
of agricultural cultivation, yet they are covered with plants and 
shrubs suited to the locality, and wild fruits, such as the blueberry, 
strawberry, and raspberry. Wild fowl of various kinds are plentiful 
in their season, and so also are salmon, which are taken in nets and 
weirs along the beaches outside the islands, as well as in the gullies. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 42 feet high, with a dwelling 
near it, on the southern end of Portage island, exhibits, at 45 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Fog signal.—A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Miramichi bar commences at the southeastern end of Portage 
island, and extends across the main entrance of the bay parallel to 
Fox island, or nearly 6 miles in a southeasterly direction. It consists 
of sand and has a depth of only 1 or 2 feet water over it in some parts 
at low water springs. Near Portage island it has sufficient water 
over it for small vessels, and in the Swashway, near its southeastern 
end, deeper water of 2f fathoms. 

Lump shoal is the southern part, and Spit shoal the northeastern 
part, of the shoal water extending eastward of Fox island; both are 
steep, but between them a vessel may run along or even work on the 
southwestern side of the channel in 4 to 3 fathoms by the lead. 

On the northeastern side of the channel the bar is extremely steep. 

The ship channel passes around the southern end of the bar in a 
least depth of 3J fathoms. 

Horseshoe shoal, westward of Portage island, is sand and gravel 
and of great extent; the least water on it is 3 feet, and it is separated 
from the shoal on the inner side of Portage island by a narrow and 
intricate channel, which is seldom used. 

Horseshoe or Inner bar.—On the southern side of the bay Horse¬ 
shoe shoal is separated from the shoal, which connects together Fox, 
Egg. and Yin islands, by the ship channel over Horseshoe bar, which 
is only 400 yards wide, .with a depth of 18 feet at low water. 


MIRAMICHI BAY. 


249 


Lightvessel.—A red schooner-rigged lightvessel on Horseshoe 
bar exhibits, at 43 feet above the sea, two fixed red lights, which should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. This vessel is often 
out of position after heavy weather. 

Fog signal.—During thick or foggy weather a hand fog horn 
answers signals from vessels. 

Bar buoy.—A can buoy (No. 1), painted black and white in ver¬ 
tical stripes, is moored in 22 feet water at the southern extreme of the 
outer bar, with the southeastern end of Huckleberry island bearing 
199°. distant 1.3 miles. Close southward of this buoy there is a 
depth of 32 feet, the western part of a deep channel from seaward.' 

Lump buoy.—A black can buoy is moored in 16 feet water on 
Lump shoal between the southeastern extreme of the bar and Fox 
island and 314°, 1,800 yards from Bar buoy. A black spar buoy lies 
a short distance northward of Lump buoy. 

Swashway buoy.—A red can buoy (No. 2) is moored in 23 feet 
water at the southwestern angle of the bar northward of the Swash¬ 
way and 326°, nearly 1.2 miles from Bar buoy. The water shoals 
rapidly to 11 feet northward of this buoy. 

Spit buoy.—A black can buoy is moored in 18 feet water at the 
eastern extreme of Spit shoal, extending 1 mile from the northern 
end of Fox island, and with the northwestern end of Fox island bear¬ 
ing 237°, distant a little more than 1 mile. 

Portage Island channel buoys.—A black spar buoy is moored 
in 17 feet water at the eastern entrance to the channel for small 
vessels between the bars, with Portage Island lighthouse bearing about 
265°, distant 2.4 miles. A red spar buoy is moored in 19 feet in the 
same channel at the western side of the outer part of the bar, with 
Portage Island lighthouse bearing about 276°, distant 1.8 miles. 
These buoys are nearly on the line of the southwestern and north¬ 
eastern light beacons, near the northern end of Fox island. 

Horseshoe Bar buoys.—A cylindrical red buoy (No. 4), show¬ 
ing an intermittent white light, is moored in 18 feet water at the 
eastern edge of the inner bar 61°, distant 1,200 yards from Horse¬ 
shoe Bar lightvessel; a similar buoy (No. 8) is moored in 3-J fathoms 
of water 57°, 400 yards from Horseshoe Bar lightvessel. Between 
these two light-buoys is moored a conical red buoy (No. 6), the three 
buoys marking the best channel across Horseshoe bar. 

Horseshoe Shoal buoy.—A red can buoy (No. 10) is moored in 
23 feet water at the southwestern end of Horseshoe shoal. 

Miramiehi Inner bay is about 13 miles long from its entrance at 
,Fox island to Sheldrake island, where Miramiehi river may be said 
to commence, and about 8 miles wide. The depth of water across 


250 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


the bay is sufficient for the largest vessels that can cross Horseshoe 
bar. 

Oak point is situated on the northern side of the approach to the 
river entrance, 2 miles northward of Cheval point. The eastern part 
of Oak point has dark-colored sandstone cliff's about 12 feet high. 

Lights—Oak Point range.—A square white lighthouse, 33 feet 
high, on the end of a point situated J mile northeastward of Oak 
point, exhibits, at 45 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, 53 feet high, at 32°, 600 yards from the pre¬ 
ceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 60 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 
Both lights are visible from all points of approach in the river and 
bay. 

These lighthouses, which show conspicuously against the dark back¬ 
ground of the woods, or their lights, in line astern lead up Oak chan¬ 
nel from the intersection of their alignment with that of Sheldrake 
Island light masts to Narrows buoy, near which Grand Beach light¬ 
houses come in line. 

Grandoon island, low and marshy, and difficult to distinguish 
from the mainland till very near, lies 53°, distant 2-J miles from Oak 
point. 

Grandoon buoy.—A red can buoy is moored in 25 feet water 400 
yards southeastward of a shoal extending from the shore eastward of 
Oak point, with Oak Point northeast light beacon bearing 292°, dis¬ 
tant 1-J miles. 

Anchorage.—There is a good and safe anchorage, in summer, in 
4 to 5 fathoms, between Horseshoe shoal and the southern end of 
Portage island. 

Vessels bound to sea usually anchor within the buoy on the south¬ 
western end of Horseshoe shoal to wait for wind or high tide to 
cross Horseshoe bar. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Portage Island lighthouse at 4h. 45m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps If 
feet; neaps range 9 inches. Easterly winds raise the level of the 
water and northwesterly winds lower it. 

It is high Avater, full and change, at Miramichi bar at 5h. 30m. • 
springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

The flood stream runs strongly through the ship channel toward 
Portage island; it then divides, a strong stream that runs southward 
along the western coast of that island meeting the flood stream at its 
southern end, whence the stream decreases in strength, and distributes 
itself generally over Miramichi bay, the greatest rate being in the 
channel over Horseshoe bar and between Horseshoe shoal and Port¬ 
age island. 


MIRAMICHI BAY. 


251 


The ebb stream runs in the direction of the channel over Horseshoe 
bar straight to seaward, its rate gradually diminishing as the bay is 
reached. It is joined by a stream running down the western coast of 
Portage island, which deflects it slightly to the southward. The 
stream down the ship channel is not very strong, and runs in the line 
of that channel. There is scarcely any ebb stream eastward of Bar 
buoy. 

The greatest rate of the tidal stream near Miramichi bay is about 
2J knots an hour. 

At the anchorage southward of Portage island the ebb stream 
makes about an hour after high water, and runs 7 hours; the flood 
stream begins about 1^ hours after low water, and runs 5J hours, 
with slack water for about ^ hour between each stream. 

Ice.—Navigation opens at Portage island about April 13 and 
closes about December 12. 

Caution is necessary With regard to the buoyage, as it is subject to 
alteration. 

Pilotage is compulsory in Miramichi bay and river. Pilots are 
generally to be found in the entrance of the bay, although their dis¬ 
trict extends eastward to Magdalen islands, southward to Ivouchi- 
bouguac river, and northeastward to Miscou point. 

Directions for Miramichi bay.—Miramichi bar should not be 
attempted, except in a small craft, without a pilot or by one possess¬ 
ing local knowledge; but in case of emergency proceed as follows, 
observing that great caution is necessary unless able to reach the 
anchorage before dark, and that it may be advisable to stand off and 
on till daylight, not coming into less than 12 fathoms water, especially 
with an easterly wind. 

During heavy easterly gales in the fall of the year, especially while 
the ebb stream makes, there is a dangerous and heavy breaking sea 
on the banks extending from Fox and Huckleberry islands, which 
has in several instances rendered vessels so unmanageable that they 
have gone ashore on the islands. To avoid this difficult part the 
Swashway is used by the pilots, as being more direct, with vessels of 
suitable draft. 

Round Escuminac point in 5 fathoms by day, and 10 fathoms by 
night, or at distances of 2J and 4 miles, respectively, and steer for 
Bar buoy, which pass close-to on its southern side. 

Then keep Preston Beach lighthouses in line astern, 139°, until the 
Swash way lighthouses are also in line, bearing 260°, when steer 
306° to Spit buoy, a distance of nearly 3 miles; leaving the buoy on 
the port hand, continue the same course until Miramichi Bay light- 
vessel at Horseshoe bar bears 252°, when steer about 256° for the 
red gas-buoy at the eastern edge of Horseshoe bar. In a long vessel 
bring this buoy and the one next above it in line, and then to obtain 


252 


GULF OF ST. LA WHENCE-WEST SHOKE. 


the deepest water in the channel, 18 feet, pass very close to and south¬ 
ward of the buoys, making direct courses from each one to the next. 
In steering for the buoy on the southwestern end of Horseshoe shoal 
keep it a little on the starboard bow and leave it well on the star¬ 
board hand. From the buoy at the southwestern end of Horseshoe 
shoal steer 275° for 4J miles to the eastern part of Oak channel, or 
until Grandoon buoy bears 227°. There is a depth of 16 feet at low 
water over the flats southeastward of Oak channel, but the mud is so 
soft that with a strong fair wind vessels can force their wav when 
drawing 2 feet more than the depth of water. 

When Grandooii buoy bears 227° steer for it. Pass close southward 
of Grandoon buoy, and then steer with Sheldrake Island light masts 
in line, 247°, until Oak Point lighthouses are in line, bearing 32°; 
keejD these lighthouses in line astern, past Mussel Bed buoy, and up 
to Narrows buoy. The directions lead up in a depth of 15 feet at low 
water. Directions for the river above Narrows buoy, page 255. 

Southern shore of the bay.—French river is small and shal¬ 
low ; there is a village of Acadians on the southern side of its entrance, 
bearing 245° from Fox gully, from which it is distant II miles. There 
is a conspicuous clump of pine trees on French River point, the north¬ 
ern entrance point of the river. The space eastward of the line join¬ 
ing Egg island and French river, and in the bay southward of the lat¬ 
ter, is occupied by flats of sand, mud, and eel grass—the habitat of 
oysters, lobsters, and other shellfish. Shallow and intricate boat chan¬ 
nels lead through these flats to Fox and Huckleberry gullies. 

Egg and Vin islands are westward of Fox island; Egg island is 
small, low, and swampy; Vin island is 2J miles long, and for the most 
part thickly wooded. 

Vin harbor, which is southward of Vin island and is a bay of 
that island, f mile long and only 600 yards wide, is approached round 
the western end of the island, which is distant nearly 4J miles from 
the northern point of Fox island. The harbor is sheltered from all 
winds, and has plenty of water for the largest vessels that can enter 
the inner bay. 

Vin spit and shoal of the mainland are long and sandy, running out 
northward nearly to the line joining the sandy points of the harbor, 
but leaving a narrow channel to the eastward, which continues for 
about 2 miles, and is a prolongation of the harbor in that direction, or 
toward French River point. 

Range lights.—On the western end of Vin island are two fixed 
white range lights. The front light is 30 feet above high water. 
The back light 33°, distant 407 yards from the front light, is 42 feet 
above high water. Each light is hoisted on a mast, with a red shed 
at its base, the front mast being 25 feet and the back one 30 feet high, 


VIN HARBOR. 


258 


and the lights are of sufficient power to be seen, in clear weather and 
when the} 7 are in line, a distance of 10 miles. 

Buoys.—A black spar buoy is i^oored in 12 feet water 275°, 1,000 
yards from the front range light mast on Yin island. 

A red spar buoy is moored in If fathoms at the northern end of 
Yin spit, on the southern side of the harbor. 

A red spar buoy is moored in If fathoms at about 307°, 1 mile from 
French River point. 

Anchorage.—Near the middle of the harbor, in 10 fathoms, mud 
bottom. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Yin harbor at 5h. 
45m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet, but the rise is uncertain, neap 
tides sometimes not ranging above 1 foot, and spring tides not above 
2 feet. The a. m. tides in August are higher in general by 2 feet 
than the p. m. tides. 

Directions.—A pilot may generally be procured to take a vessel 
into Yin harbor; if unable to get one: From the buoy at the south¬ 
western end of Horseshoe shoal steer 228° for about 3 miles, keeping 
the lead going, and then round the western end of Yin island at a 
distance of not less than f mile, leaving the black buoy on the port 
hand, until the range light masts on that end of the island are in 
line bearing 33°. The vessel will then be southward of the shoal ex¬ 
tending from the western end of the island. Approach the harbor 
steering toward the light masts with the high light mast open to the 
right of the low one, and on shoaling the water when closing the 
sandy southwestern point of the island, sheer to the southward suffi¬ 
ciently to round it at a distance of 150 yards. When past the point, 
in order to clear Yin shoal, which extends off the mainland opposite,, 
do not go southward of the line joining the sandy points of the 
harbor. 

Vin bay is about 3 miles wide and nearly as deep. Quart point, 
its western point, bearing about 270°, 3.3 miles from the western end 
of Yin island, is a low cliff of sandstone with high trees on it. There 
is a good anchorage in the eastern part of this bay, in 3 fathoms, 
mud bottom, and about f mile westward of the island. The western 
side of the bay is shallow. A pier, 760 feet long, runs out into a 
depth of 8 feet at low water in Yin bay. 

Vin river, which has a depth of 6 feet at low water in its entrance, 
flows into the southern part of Yin bay 208°, 2J miles from the south¬ 
western point of the island. There is a small but neat church on 
its eastern shore, a short distance within its entrance, and flourishing 
farms on either side, where supplies may, perhaps, be obtained. The 
b&t watering place of the vicinity is also at this river; but it is diffi- 


254 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


cult to obtain large supplies of good water in so flat a country near 
the sea. 

There is a tolerable road from yin river to Chatham, the principal 
town on Miramichi river. 

Black river, into which 9 feet can be carried at low water through 
a narrow and difficult channel, flows into the southwestern corner of 
Vin bay, and the river has 3 fathoms in it for some distance within 
the entrance. 

Cheval point, bearing 267° nearly 3 miles from Quart point, is 
sandy, with a remarkable clump of high trees upon it. 

Immediately westward of Cheval point is the shallow Napan bay 
and river which boats can ascend for several miles, or as far as the 
tide reaches. Above that point the Miramichi river, which is small, 
runs through a fertile and well cultivated valley extending westward 
in rear of the town of Chatham. 

Middle ground is a long sandy bank, with less than 2 fathoms 
water over it, which stretches down the middle of the Miramichi 
estuary for 2f miles east-northeastward from Cheval point. 

Sheldrake island lies rather more than | mile off Napan point, 
and bears from Cheval point 281°, If miles. It is low, swampy, partly 
wooded, and on its eastern side has two buildings which w r ere for¬ 
merly used as a cholera hospital—a strange situation, considering that 
the place in a swamp and the mosquitoes innumerable. The island, 
which is 600 yards long and 500 yards wide, is separated from the 
northern shore by a channel \ mile wide, but with only 1 or 2 feet 
in it at low water. Shallow water extends far off this island in every 
direction—westward to Bartibog island and eastward to Oak point; 
it also sweeps round to the southward and southeastward, so as to 
leave only a narrow channel between it and the shoal which fills Na¬ 
pan bay and, trending eastward past Cheval point, forms Middle 
ground. 

Lights—Sheldrake Island range.—Two lanterns, hoisted on 
masts 46 and 39 feet high, with sheds at their bases and 388 yards 
apart 247° on the northern side of Sheldrake island, exhibit, at 45 and 
35 feet above high water, fixed white lights. The high light should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles and the low one 10 miles. 

The lights in line 247° lead up Oak channel from Grandobn buoy 
to the intersection of their range line with that of Oak Point range 
lights. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Sheldrake island at 
6h. 0m.: springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Spit point and Murdoch point are two sandy points on the south¬ 
ern shore of the river, 800 yards apart, with a cove between them, and 
about 1 mile southwestward of Sheldrake island. 


MIRAMICHI RIVER. 


255 


The entrance of Miramichi river is f mile wide between the 
points mentioned in the preceding paragraph and Moody point, the 
east point of Bartibog river entrance, which is a mile, 276°, from 
Sheldrake island, and has a small Indian church on it. 

Loggieville, formerly Black brook, nearly a mile above Murdoch 
point, is the terminus of the Canada Eastern railway, and a port of 
call for the steamers of the Miramichi Steam Navigation Company, 
which ply between Escuminac, Neguac, Chatham, and Newcastle. 
It has a telegraph office. It also has a wharf 212 feet long, with a 
depth of 10 feet at its outer end at low water. 

St. Andrew point, 14 miles above Murdoch point and on the same 
side of the river, shows as the extreme of the land from Sheldrake 
island. Black Brook mill, which has a large chimney, visible from 
Grandoon buoy, is situated on St. Andrew point. 

Bartibog river is f mile wide at its entrance between Malcolm 
and Moody points, but contracts to 300 yards a short distance within, 
where it is crossed by a w T ooden bridge. Bartibog island lies in the 
entrance of the river, has steep banks or clay cliffs on every side, and 
is nearly joined to the shore to the northward by a sandy spit. The 
narrow channel into the river passes close to the eastern end of the 
island, and has 4 feet in it at 1ow t water. 

Grant Beach range lights.—Two square white lighthouses, each 
37 feet high, at Grant beach, Bartibog, exhibit at 107 and 09 feet 
above high w ater fixed white range lights, which should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 4 miles. 

The front light is visible from all points of approach by water. 
The rear light is visible on the range line and also up the river. The 
lights, which are 433 yards apart, in line 271°, mark the channel from 
the conical buoy at the narrows of Sheldrake channel up to abreast 
Malcolm ])oint. 

Directions.—Pilotage is compulsory in Miramichi river, and 
there are numerous pilots. The following directions may assist 
vessels proceeding up the river to the first anchorage. Narrows 
buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the northern side of Sheldrake chan¬ 
nel, where the channel is 300 yards wfide with a depth of 8 fathoms. 
Pass close southward of this buoy and steer about 236° until Grant 
Beach lighthouses are in line 271°; then keep these lighthouses in 
line and pass close southward of Sheldrake buoy. This buoy is situ¬ 
ated on the southwestern side of Sheldrake shoals, and bears 247°, 
1,400 yards, from the southwestern point of Sheldrake island. Con¬ 
tinue with the lighthouses in line and anchor nearly midway between 
Murdoch point and the eastern end of Bartibog island, in 4 fathoms 
at low water, mud bottom. This position is well sheltered from 
easterly wfinds by Sheldrake island and its shoals. 


256 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


At this anchorage the rate of the tidal streams seldom exceeds 2 
knots, but in the narrows of Sheldrake channel the rate of the ebb is 
3 knots and perhaps stronger when the water is high, as it often is 
in the spring of the year. 

Water can be obtained at Moody point, or at any of the brooks 
which descend the steep banks westward of Bartibog river. 

Miramichi river commences at Sheldrake island; below that 
island the inner bay, with its low and widely receding shores, bears 
no resemblance to a river. The river is f mile wide at Murdoch point, 
and ^ mile at St. Andrew point, a breadth which it retains nearly 
up to Chatham. At its entrance the country rises into gentle undula¬ 
tions, terminating in steep banks and cliffs of sandstone, which in 
some places attain a height of 50 feet. Within the entrance the set¬ 
tlements increase in number and extent, and soon become continuous 
on either side, with steam sawmills here and there. In the vicinity 
of the towns of Chatham and Newcastle and the village of Douglas- 
town there are many pretty buildings, and the country is by no 
means devoid of beauty. 

The rocks which appear on the banks of the river are sandstones 
belonging to the coal formation, the vegetable organic remains of 
which are frequently met with in veins containing bituminous coal. 
Thin seams or veins of coal of good quality have been met with, but 
not as yet in such quantities as to be worth the working. The coun¬ 
try bordering on the river is well cultivated, the soil being deep, 
light, and friable yet seeming sufficiently fertile for almost every 
agricultural purpose. The majority of the inhabitants are engaged 
in occupations connected with the timber trade, although some are 
occupied successfully and to an increasing extent with farming. 
The salmon and alewives fisheries are also extensively prosecuted in 
their seasons, and cod fishing on the banks in the gulf. 

Miramichi river is navigable up to Beaubere island by any vessel 
that can cross the inner bar. 

Written directions for the Miramichi above the anchorage 
between Murdoch point and Bartibog would be useless, because pilot¬ 
age is compulsory and pilots plentiful; besides, there are very few 
landmarks that could be easily recognized by a stranger. 

Ice.—The average date of the closing of navigation at Chatham is 
December 5 and of the opening April 20, the river being completely 
closed between those dates. 

The first vessel arrives about May 12 and the last leaves about 
November 26. 

St. Andrew banks lie in the middle of the river southward of 
Grant beach. The western bank is marked by a black buoy on its 
northern side and a red buoy on its southwestern side. 


MIRAMICHI RIVER. 


257 


Legget shoal, ^ mile above St. 'Andrew banks, lies nearer the 
northern than the southern side of the river, and had 12 feet upon it 
at low ’water; but this depth, and also that upon the banks of St. 
Andrew, is said to vary, in consequence of old trees, logs, and other 
lumber lodging upon them. The same cause is said to render the 
depth uncertain to the southward of this shoal, where there is a wider 
channel. The channel at the black stake on the northwestern side of 
Legget shoal has 2J to 5 fathoms water in it, and is nearly 200 yards 
wide between the shoal and a shoal bank which extends off the north¬ 
ern shore. On the point of this shoal bank and about £ mile above 
Legget shoal there is a red stake. Vessels must pass close northward 
of the black stake, and close southward of the red stake, which is 2 
miles above Bartibog riror. 

The river is clear of detached shoals from Legget shoal to Middle 
island, abreast which on the northern side of the river there are 4 to 
7 fathoms close to the sandstone cliffs until off Gilmour mill and cove, 
nearly opposite the western end of Middle island. 

Middle island is rather smaller than Sheldrake island, from which 
it is distant 5£ miles, and together with its shoal it confines the ship 
channel to the northern side of the river there being no channel to the 
southward of it at low water. 

The fairway of the river is clear from Gilmour mill to the wharf 
at Chatham. 

Light.—A mast, 45 feet high, with a shed at its base on the 
northern side of Middle island, exhibits, at 44 feet above high water, a 
fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 
11 miles. , 

Chatham, the principal town on the Miramichi, and containing in 
1901 4,868 inhabitants, commences £ mile above Middle island, and 
extends along the right bank of the river for 1£ miles. The town is 
straggling, but it contains some handsome buildings, among Avhich 
are a college and a hospital. It is one of the principal lumber ports 
of New Brunswick, being conveniently situated for shipping, and 
having a depth of 6 to 8 fathoms water close to its wharves. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Chatham. 

Quarantine.—Chatham is a minor quarantine station and main¬ 
tains a seaman’s hospital. 

Tugs may be obtained from Chatham by signal to Escuminac 
lighthouse signal station, but there is no regular charge. 

Communication.—Chatham is connected by the Canada Eastern 
Railway with Fredericton. This railway has junctions with the 
Intercolonial railway at about 6 miles above Chatham and with the 


50918—08-17 


258 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Canadian Pacific railway at Fredericton. Steamers of the Miramichi 
Steam Navigation Company call here. 

Telegraph.—Chatham is in telegraphic communication with all 
the towns of the Dominion of Canada and the United States. 

Douglastown, on the left bank, about 1J miles above Chatham, is 
a much smaller place, containing some 400 inhabitants. It is prettily 
situated on a rising ground, and has sufficient water at its wharves 
for vessels of moderate size. The most noticeable building is the 
Marine hospital, built of stone. 

Abram’s shipbuilding establishment is 1J miles above Douglas- 
town, on the same side of the river. Opposite to it, on the right bank, 
is the English church of St. Paul. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 23 feet high, with a red roof, 
on Limekiln bank, on the northern bank of the river just below 
Newcastle and 2-J miles above Douglastown, exhibits, at 87 feet above 
high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear weather, 
a distance of 9 miles. 

Newcastle, 2J miles farther up the river, and on the left or north¬ 
ern bank, is the county town, containing the court-house and the jail. 
It had a population of 2,507 inhabitants in 1901. Standing on an 
acclivity which rises to the height of 100 feet at J mile from the river, 
and commanding a view over the lower ground westward and south¬ 
ward to Beaubere island and Nelson town, and down the river to 
Chatham, a distance of nearly 5 miles, its situation is beautiful, while 
at the same time it is favorable for mercantile purposes, the river 
opposite it being 600 yards wide, clear of shoals, with 4 to 6 fathoms 
water close to the wharves. 

The Intercolonial railway from Bathurst to Moncton passes 
through Newcastle. 

The United States is represented at Newcastle by a consular 
agent. 

Nelson town, on the right or southern bank, opposite the eastern 
end of Beaubere island about 1J miles above Newcastle, and the last 
village within the navigable waters of the Miramachi, is a straggling 
place with about 200 inhabitants, principally of Irish origin. The 
village possesses a large wooden Roman Catholic chapel. 

Supplies.—At Chatham, meat, bread, and vegetables are obtain¬ 
able; but of the last potatoes only are plentiful. The best water is 
taken from springs, although the surface water of the river is quite 
fresh on the ebb tide. Supplies of any kind can be procured at 
Chatham or Newcastle. 

Coal.—About 1,000 tons of coal are usually in store at Chatham, 
and about 200 tons at Newcastle, but any quantity can be obtained at 
short notice by Intercolonial railway from Pictou. 


BEAUBERE ISLAND. 


259 


Trade.—The chief exports from Chatham, Douglastown, and 
Newcastle are timber, dressed lumber, paling, salmon, lobster, and 
extract of hemlock bark for tanning. 

Repairs.—There is neither dock nor slip in Miramichi river, but 
at Chatham there is a wharf for heaving down vessels for repairs, 
and there are also shipyards and foundries. 

Beaubere island, 1£ miles long and £ mile Wide, is a pretty 
island, having steep clay banks, based on sandstone, and rising about 
20 feet above the river. It is situated nearly 1£ miles above and 
south of Newcastle. 

Miramichi river is navigable to this point by any vessels that can 
cross Horseshoe bar. In some parts of the channel above Chatham 
there are only 2£ fathoms, which would have to be avoided by a large 
vessel at low water; Wright bank, with 8 feet water over it, is the 
only detached shoal, and it lies less than halfway across from the 
right bank about £ mile above Douglastown., 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Beaubere island at 6h. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

In July and August, when the observations were made, excepting 
for 2 or 3 days at neaps, the a. m. tides rose 2 or 3 feet higher than 
the p. m. tides, and were of longer duration by 1 or even 2 hours 
at a time. But this is much influenced by winds, and consequently 
by no means regular. The mean length of the flood tide is 6 hours, 
and of the ebb 6£ hours. The usual average rate of the ebb stream 
is 2 knots, and of the flood 1 knot, in this part of the river. The ebb 
in some places runs 2£ knots, and in the spring of the year is said 
to be still stronger. The duration and length of the tidal streams 
are also influenced by the winds, but in general they continue in the 
channel about \ hour after high and low water on the shore. 

Northwest and Southwest arms.—At Beaubere island the two 
great arms of the Miramichi meet. Northwest arm is much the 
larger, as respects the tidal water, although Southwest arm is con¬ 
sidered the main branch, being of greater length, and discharging 
more water. Northwest arm would be navigable for large vessels to 
Shilelah cove, 7 miles above Beaubere island, as there is sufficient 
depth of water, if the channel were buoyed or staked in the narrow 
parts, which are not more than 100 yards wide. Above Shilelah 
cove there are 1 to 1£ fathoms water, in intricate and narrow chan¬ 
nels between shoals of mud and low marshy islands, all the way to 
the rapids, which flow in narrow channels between meadow islands. 
There the tide ends, and the water is quite fresh 13 miles above Beau¬ 
bere island, and 39 miles from the entrance of the inner bay at Fox 
island. On the right bank there is an Indian village just below the 
rapids. The banks of clay and sandstone are almost everywhere 


260 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


bold and dry, with improving farms on either side, and the scenery 
in this fine arm possesses considerable beauty. 

Southwest arm is not navigable for large vessels, as only 6 feet at 
low water springs can be carried through between Beaubere island 
and the mainland, and above that shallow part, although there are 
2 fathoms water in places, yet the channel is too narrow and intricate 
for any but very small vessels. The arm is about \ mile wide for the 
first 5 miles, or up to Barnaby island, after which it varies from 
200 to 400 yards up to the rapids, 12 miles from Beaubere island. 
On the left bank at the rapids, where the river is 100 yards wide, is 
Indian town, an Indian village. Both shores of this arm are settled, 
and many of the farms appear to be in a flourishing condition. 

The Intercolonial railway runs along the left bank of Southwest 
arm to Indian town and thence the Canada Eastern railway runs to 
Blackville about 6 miles farther up; the Canada Eastern railway also 
runs along the right bank from Loggieville to Blackville, whence it 
continues to Fredericton. 

Light.—A fixed red light -is shown from the drawbridge over the 
Northwest arm about 2J miles above Newcastle. The lantern is 
hoisted on a mast situated on the western side of the abutment of the 
southern end of the draw span, and 122 feet from the northern side 
of the channel and opening of draw. 

Tides.—The tide, which ends at the rapids, was observed to rise 
2 feet there, and it was high water on the day of the full moon at 
about 8h. 0m.; as it was also at the foot of the rapids in Northwest 
arm. 

Northern shore of the bay from Oak point trends northwest¬ 
ward for 14 miles, thence 2 miles eastward to Blackland point, the 
northern entrance point on the mainland of Miramichi bay. The 
first 8 miles of this shore to Burnt church practically unbroken. 

Burnt church is a fishing and farming settlement much fre¬ 
quented as a summer resort, situated about 48°, 5J miles from 
Grandoon island, and on the northern shore of Miramichi bay. The 
village, which has a population of about 200 inhabitants, contains 
two white buildings that are noticeable from eastward, and a church 
that has a spire. A wharf extends 260 feet off the shore and has a 
depth of 9 feet at its outer end at low water. There is an Indian 
settlement just southwestward of the village. 

Burnt river flows into the bay, passing northeastward of the 
village. 

A steamer of the Miramichi Steam Navigation Company calls 
twice daily during the season. 

Channel.—A clear channel, with 3^ to 2J fathoms water in it, runs 
northward of the Horseshoe arid the shoals of Portage island, and 


HAY ISLAND—NEGUAC GULLY. 


261 


northeastward to § mile from Hay island, whence a narrow channel, 
suitable only for boats and small craft, leads out to sea through 
Neguac gully. 

Hay island.—The southwestern end of Hay island, which is 
nearly connected with the main by shoal water, lies northeastward 1J 
miles from Burnt church, and the island extends east-northeastward 
1.4 miles. 

Lights—Hay Island range.—A white square wooden tower, 19 
feet high, with a red roof, situated near the eastern end of Hay island, 
exhibits, at 23 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should 
been seen, in clear weather, on the line of range, a distance of 10 
miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 21 feet high, with a red roof, situated 
255°, 75 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 30 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 11 miles. This light is visible from the south¬ 
ward as well as on the range line. 

These lights in line enable vessels seeking shelter to clear the point 
of the shoal off the eastern end of Hay island. 

Upper Neguac village, having a population of about 150 in¬ 
habitants, containing a church with a spire, and a post-office, lies on 
the shore of the bay about 1^ miles north-northeastward of the south¬ 
western end of Hay island. 

Neguac sand bar commences at about a mile northeastward from 
the northern end of Portage island, and, together with several smaller 
sand bars lying off Blackland point, forms the coast to Tabusintac 
gully, a distance of 4 miles northeastward. 

Neguac gully, between Neguac sand bar and a small sand bar to 
the southwestward, is nearly 400 yards wide and carries 2 fathoms 
water, but a shifting sand bar, with 10 feet over it at low water, lies 
off the gully. Within the gully is a narrow channel (see above). 
Shoal water extends 1J miles off this gully, but there is excellent 
warning by the lead. Shoals nearly dry at low water extend from 
Neguac gully to Portage island, a distance of J mile. 

Range lights.—A lantern on a mast, 25 feet high, with a white 
shed at its base, on the northeastern side of Neguac gully, exhibits, at 
20 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 7 miles. 

A square white tower, 30 feet high, with a red roof, at 348°, 300 
yards from the preceding light mast, exhibits, at 32 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 11 miles. 

The alignment of these lights leads to the buoy marking the cross¬ 
ing of the outer bar of Neguac gully. 


262 


GULF OF ST. LA WHENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Buoys.—A red can buoy is moored in 4 fathoms at the entrance to 
Neguac gully. A similar buoy is moored northwestward of the outer 
buoy, and shows the direction of the channel. 

Lower Neguac village is on the shore of the bay about miles 
northeastward of Upper Neguac. Both of these are Acadian villages 
inhabited by fishermen and farmers. There are excellent oysters in 
their locality. The wharf at Lower Neguac is a cribwork block, with 
5J feet water at its outer end, which is connected with the shore by a 
roadway running northward 1,180 feet to high water mark, where it 
ends near a fish house and a store. 

Range lights.—A mast, 25 feet high, with a white shed at its 
base, on Lower Neguac wharf, 20 yards from its outer end, exhibits, 
at 28 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 8 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 38 feet high, with a red lantern, sit¬ 
uated on the beach 312°, 360 yards from the preceding mast, exhibits, 
at 32 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 

These lights in line lead over the bars inside Neguac gully. The 
outer light leads to the wharf. 

Blackland point, the northern point of Miramichi bay, lying 
about 3| miles east-northeastward of Lower Neguac, is low and 
swampy, with steep and black peaty banks. There is a communica¬ 
tion round it for boats within the sand bars, from Miramichi inner 
bay into Tabusintac lagoon. 

Tabusintac gully, 1J miles northeastward of Blackland point, is 
about 300 yards wide at high water, and has a shifting bar of sand, 
over which, when it was surveyed, 6 to 7 feet could be carried at low 
water, and 11 or 12 feet at high water in spring tides. 

Tabusintac river.—The entrance of Tabusintac river from the 
lagoon inland is 3 miles to the northward of the gully, and can be 
seen over the sand bars. When over the bar there is a depth of 2 to 
3 fathoms in the channel through the lagoon, and as much as 4 to 5 
fathoms in some parts of the river, but the channel is narrow and in¬ 
tricate, and suitable only for boats or very small craft. The tide 
flows 10 miles up the river, through an undulating country, and occa¬ 
sionally between steep banks of sandstone, which rise about 100 feet 
above the sea. There are settlements, consisting principally of 
Scotch families, on either shore, and there is a church on the right 
bank 1J miles up from the lagoon. 

Salmon are taken in considerable numbers in the Tabusintac, and 
lobsters, oysters, and other shellfish in the lagoon; codfish, which 
come in upon the coast early in the season, are caught upon a small 
scale. 


RAFT GULLY—NORTH GULLY. 


263 


Raft gully is an entrance into Tabusintac lagoon about 6J miles 
north-northeastward of Tabusintac gully, but it is nearly blocked 
up with sand. 

Tracadie lagoon is one of the several large lagoons situated on the 
eastern coast of New Brunswick, separated from the sea by long, 
sandy beaches, and entered only by narrow channels termed gullies. 
Of these there are three leading to Tracadie lagoon, known as South, 
Old, and North gullies. 

The lagoon is some 6 miles long, with a width of J to 1 mile or 
more, but, except in South and North Tracadie river channels, and 
in the channels entering from the gullies, it is very shoal and almost 
dry at low water; it affords well sheltered boat or canoe navigation. 

South or Little Tracadie gully, which is situated 7 miles north¬ 
ward from Raft gully, had 4J feet over its bar in the summer of 
1839. South Tracadie river, which discharges its waters, after 
traversing a lagoon, by this gully into the sea, is separated from 
North Tracadie lagoon by a point of the mainland which approaches 
near the sand bars, but still leaves a communication within them 
from the one lagoon to the other. 

There are huts and fish stores at the entrance of the gully, and 
Acadian settlements at the entrance of the river. 

Light.—A square red lighthouse, 26 feet high, on the northern side 
of South gully, exhibits, at 26 feet above high water, a fixed red 
light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

Old gully, 1 mile northward of South gully, is now nearly blocked 
up with sand, but it was formerly the principal entrance to Tracadie 
lagoon. 

North gully of Tracadie is northward 2 miles from Old gully, 
and is at present the principal entrance to the very extensive lagoon, 
through which North Tracadie river flows in a narrow channel 
between flats of sand, mud, and weeds, the habitation of innumerable 
shellfish. There are several huts and stores at the entrance of this 
gully, which is 300 yards wide at high water, but, like all the rest 
on this coast, has a shifting bar of sand off it, causing the depth, 
breadth, and direction of the channel to vary frequently in heavy 
gales. In 1839 there were 6 to 7 feet over the bar at low water, 
and 11 or 12 feet at high water, springs, yet it was said that there 
was often not more than 8 feet in the highest tides. In the entrance 
of the gully, and sheltered by the bar outside, small vessels moor 
in 1J to 3 fathoms water. In the channel of the river opposite the 
village there are 2 to 3 fathoms, but that can only be reached by 
passing through the lagoon, where the channel in one part is so 
shallow that boats can pass only when the tide is in. 


264 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Range lights.—A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, with a 
red lantern, on the sand flat on the northern side of North gully, 
exhibits, at 37 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. This is both a 
coast and a range light. 

A red mast, on the sands at 108°, 54 yards from the preceding light¬ 
house, exhibits, at 20 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 4 miles. This light is 
exhibited only when it can be ranged with the channel. 

Directions.—The lighthouse and mast in line, 288°, lead to a red 
can buoy moored in 4 \ fathoms water outside the bar, and to a second 
red can buoy at the mouth of the gully; thence the tortuous channel 
up to “ the block ” is marked by buoys and stakes. 

Caution.—The channel into North gully changes so frequently 
and suddenly that it is impossible to keep mariners notified of the 
alterations. The range lighthouse and mast can be used only by 
mariners having local knowledge. No vessel larger than a fishing 
boat should attempt to enter the gully at night, and no vessel must 
attempt the entrance without a pilot. 

Tracadie village, which has two churches, is situated on the 
southern side of North Tracadie river entrance. A wharf, 1,430 feet 
, long, has been constructed in order to provide shipping facilities for 
the district, which is large and contains some 2,000 inhabitants, who 
are principally Acadians, living by fishing, limited agriculture, and 
lumbering. Both rivers supply a considerable quantity of pine 
timber. There is a lazaretto at Tracadie. 

The Gulf Shore railway runs from Tracadie to Pokemouche, where 
it connects with the Caraquet railway. 

Green point, 4 miles north-northeastward of Tracadie North 
gully, separates Tracadie and Pokemouche lagoons. A rocky shoal 
extends J mile off the point to a depth of 3 fathoms and 14 miles to 
5 fathoms at low water. 

Pokemouche river, 2-| miles north-northeastward of Green point, 
after traversing a shallow and extensive lagoon, enters the gulf by 
Pokemouche gully, which is about 200 yards wide through the sand 
bars. A shifting bar of sand outside generally leaves a narrow 
channel, 4 to 5 feet deep at low water, into the gully, which has a 
depth of 9 to 12 feet for some distance within. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 37 feet high, with a keeper’s 
dwelling attached, on the beach at the northern side of Pokemouche 
gully, exhibits at 35 feet above high water a fixed green light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy is moored in 3 fathoms directly outside 
the entrance to Pokemouche gully. 


SHIPPIGAN GULLY. 


265 


Tides.—Spring tides at Pokemouche rise 5 feet. 

Directions.—Fishing vessels entering the gully make the buoy 
outside the entrance, whence the channel through the gully is marked 
by spar buoys. Large schooners can be taken in by a native pilot 
in fine weather, but local knowledge is required to enter. 

Pokemouche village, on the southern side of the river entrance 
into the lagoon and If miles westward from the gully, contains a 
church, post-office, and sawmill. The inhabitants, 300 to 400 in 
number, and principally of Acadian French and Irish origin, live by 
fishing, a very limited agriculture, and lumbering. 

Shippigan gully, about 5f miles northeastward of Pokemouche 
gully, is the southern entrance to Shippigan harbor and sound. 
A bar of sand at the entrance of the gully dries in part at low water 
and shifts in heavy gales, but there is generally a channel with 4 to 
5 feet in it at low water, and the tide rises 3 feet at neaps and 5 
feet at springs. Breakwaters have been constructed at the seaward 
entrance of the gully to improve the channel. The 3-fathom edge of 
the shoal water outside the bar is 4 mile offshore, after which the 
depth increases rapidly. The tidal stream is generally verv rapid 
in the gully, and dangerously heavy surf is often occasioned on its 
bar in heavy easterly gales. The passage over the bar and into this 
gully is difficult and dangerous to strangers, but it is constantly used 
by the native fishermen with their small schooner-rigged shallops. 

Light.—A wooden, octagonal, white lighthouse, with a circular red 
lantern 54 feet high, on the eastern side of the southern entrance of 
Shippigan gully, exhibits at 54 feet above high water a flashing 
white light, giving 1 flash every 5 seconds, which should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Fog signal.—A hand horn at the lighthouse answers vessels’ 
signals. 

Range lights.—A red mast 2T feet high, with a small red shed 
at its base, on a sand bank at the extreme of Indian point and about 
1,600 yards within the gully entrance, exhibits at 28 feet above high 
water a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 10 miles. 

A white mast 46 feet high, with a small white shed at its base, 
situated 326°, 45 yards from the preceding light mast, exhibits at 46 
feet above high water a fixed white light, which should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

These lights are visible only on and over a small arc on each side of 
the range line; and in that line lead up to the red can buoy outside the 
bar. 

Buoys.—The gully is buoyed with red and black buoys. 


266 


GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Directions.—Entering Shippigan gully from the southward the 
alignment of the range light masts leads to a red can buoy outside the 
bar, within which there are three more red can buoys; all these buoys 
are left close-to on the starboard hand. At the inner of these buoys 
the channel turns sharply toward the lighthouse on the eastern side 
of the gully entrance; thence to the Government wharf at Shippigan 
the channel is very narrow and winds its way through extensive mud 
flats covered with eelgrass; but it is well defined by stakes driven 
into the bank at its edge and by spar buoys. The starboard hand 
stakes and buoys are red and are surmounted by cones, the port hand 
marks are black and are plain. 

The last mark near the wharf is a black dolphin surmounted by a 
barrel. Northward of the Government wharf the colors are reversed. 
Local knowledge is necessary to enter the gully, as the channel con¬ 
stantly shifts. 

The coast of Shippigan island from Shippigan gully curves in 
about a northeasterly direction for 13£ miles to Miscou gully, whence 
the coast of Miscou island continues approximately in the same direc¬ 
tion for 2J miles to Wilson point, and thence a little westward of 
north for 4 miles to Birch point. 

Shoal water.—There are rocky patches with little more than 2 
fathoms water over them about 1 mile off the coast of Shippigan 
island, and 6 miles northeastward of Shippigan gully; and a similar 
patch about the same distance off the low, sandy cliffs of the island 
10 miles northeastward of the gully. Shoal water extends about 1,400 
yards off Miscou gully; and Wilson bank, a sandy shoal, extends 
about 1.4 miles off the east coast of Miscou island to the depth of 5 
fathoms; but as a depth of 5 \ fathoms has been obtained 3 miles east¬ 
ward of Birch point, this bank should be given a sufficient berth. 

Miscou gully, between Shippigan and Miscou islands, leads into 
Miscou harbor, but it admits boats only at high water. 

Light.—A mast, 34 feet high, with a white shed at its base, stand¬ 
ing on a crib, and situated on the northern side of the eastern entrance 
to Miscou gully, exhibits, at 54 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in all directions of approach by water, in 
clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

Miscou island, which is 8 miles long, north-northeast and south- 
southwest, and 4 miles broad, has about 500 inhabitants, occupied 
chiefly in fishing; they own 75 fishing boats, and have established 11 
lobster factories. 

Birch point, the northeastern extreme of Miscou island, is a steep 
sandstone cliff about 10 feet high, and may be easily recognized by 
the white birch trees on the point, they being higher than any others 


MISCOU ISLAND AND BANKS. 267 

on the coast in this locality. A reef of stones and sand extends J mile 
off the shore near the point. 

Light. —An octagonal, white lighthouse, 74 feet high, on Birch 
point, exhibits, at 79 feet above high water, a group revolving white 
light, showing 4 flashes every 75 seconds, with intervals of 15 seconds 
between the points of greatest brilliancy, the final flash of the group 
being followed by an interval of 30 seconds, during the greater part 
of which the light is eclipsed. The light should be seen seaward, in 
clear weather, a distance of 14 miles, and from the westward is visible 
over the island. 

Fog signal. —A steam fog whistle, situated 107 yards eastward of 
the lighthouse on Birch point, sounds blasts of 5 seconds duration 
every 30 seconds in foggy weather or snowstorms. 

Signal station. —At Birch point there is a signal station which is 
* connected by telephone with the telegraph system. 

North point of Miscou island, about 1J miles west-northwestward 
of Birch point, is distinguished by a green mound, or grassy sand hill. 
The northern end of the island is surrounded with steep, sandy 
beaches, on which are several fishermen’s huts and stores. The shal¬ 
low water does not there extend more than 800 yards offshore, but 
immediately eastward of the point, and fronting the outlet of a small 
lagoon, a sandy shoal commences and stretches off north-northeast¬ 
ward. The soundings enable the mariner easily to avoid this shoal. 
At 1 mile from the shore there is a depth of 3 fathoms, but it is more 
than 2| miles out to the 5 fathoms edge of the shoal. 

Anchorage. —There is good anchorage off the lighthouse on Birch 
point, in 3J to 6 fathoms, with westerly winds; and on either side of 
the reef under North point, in 5 to 10 fathoms, with southerly winds, 
the bottom being sand, which holds sufficiently well for offshore 
winds. 

Miscou banks extend about 22 miles eastward of Miscou island, 
and the soundings upon them afford sufficient guidance for a vessel 
approaching this coast. The shoalest parts of the banks bear about 
68° from Birch Point lighthouse, in which direction, for 6 miles off¬ 
shore, there are only/5^ to 8 fathoms over rocky bottom; then the 
water deepens rapidly, there being 12 to 20 fathoms, with red sand, 
rock, and shells, for the next 9 miles; at 7 miles farther, with depths 
of 20 to 30 fathoms, over red sand, gravel, shells, and broken coral, 
is the edge of the bank, where the depth increases rapidly to over 40 
fathoms, and the bottom changes to mud. 

The northern edge of the banks, in 30 fathoms, is 7 to 8 miles north¬ 
ward of the 68° line of bearing from Birch Point lighthouse, and it 
passes North point of Miscou, at the distance of 4 miles, into Chaleur 


268 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


bay, thus affording an excellent guide. Banks continue to extend off 
the coast to the southward, but with more regular soundings and a 
greater general depth than are found on Miscou banks. 

Chaleur bay (bay of Chaleurs) is the largest bay in the gulf, 
being 25 miles wide across its entrance, from Miscou island to cape 
Espoir; but the entrance is more generally considered to be between 
North point of Miscou island and Maquereau point, which bears 318°, 
and is distant 14J miles. The depth of the bay, from Miscou to the 
entrance of Restigouche river, is about 75 miles. 

The southern shore of the bay, or the coast of New Brunswick, is 
generally low, but between Caraquet and Bathurst cliffs of red sand¬ 
stone rise to 200 feet above the sea. The northern shore of the bay, or 
the coast of Quebec, is of moderate height, but an irregular range 
of hills, of considerable elevation, runs along a few miles inland. 
The predominating features of both shores are red cliffs of sandstone 
and shale, with intervening shingle and sand beaches; trap rocks and 
limestone are occasionally also met with, but more sparingly. The 
sandstone either belongs to, or is very nearly connected with, the coal 
formation, fossil vegetable remains of which, as well as thin veins 
of bituminous coal, being not infrequent. 

There are numerous settlements around the bay, and the several 
harbors, roadsteads, and rivers are frequented by vessels engaged in 
the lumber trade and the fisheries. 

Weather. —The weather is warmer and generally much finer with¬ 
in this bay than it is outside in the adjacent parts of the gulf. The 
fogs, which are prevalent with southerly winds on Miscou banks, 
seldom enter the bay, although rain and mist accompany easterly 
gales here as elsewhere. 

Navigation is by no means difficult, for although there are some 
shoals, yet there is everywhere good warning by the lead. 

Tidal streams. —The tidal streams are regular within the bay, 
and their rate seldom amounts to 1 knot an hour; but outside, off its 
mouth, and especially on Miscou banks, the currents and tidal streams 
are irregular, both in rate and direction; and their effect must be 
guarded against by the constant use of the lead and attention to the 
soundings. 

Communication. —The Caraquet railway runs along the southern 
shore of the bay from Shippigan to Bathurst, and the Intercolonial 
railway from Bathurst to Dalhousie and Matapedia, while the At¬ 
lantic and Lake Superior railway runs along the northern shore from 
Matapedia to Paspebiac. 

A steamer leaves Dalhousie every Wednesday and Saturday morn¬ 
ing for Gaspe and intermediate ports in the bay, arriving at Gaspe 
the same evening; the steamer returning leaves Gaspe every Monday 


CHALEUR BAY. 269 

and Thursday morning. Connections are made at Dalhousie with the 
trains. 

Directions in fogs. —When bound for Chaleur bay and approach¬ 
ing its entrance in foggy weather, do not attempt to make Maquereau 
point, which is so bold that there is little or no warning by the lead; 
but strike soundings on Miscou banks, and keep a cautious lookout 
for the numerous fishing schooners which are generally riding there. 
The northern edge of the banks, followed in 30 fathoms of water, 
leads past North point of Miscou, at the distance of 4 miles, and forms 
a sure guide up the bay. 

The bank of soundings off the northern shore of the bay is also* suf¬ 
ficiently wide to be a guide when within Maquereau point; neverthe¬ 
less, in bad weather, do not approach the shore nearer than the depth 
of 30 fathoms in any part of the bay eastward of Carlisle point. The 
bottom is generally sand and shells on the banks, while in the central 
part of the bay black and brown mud prevail, with depths between 
30 and 48 fathoms. Within, or westward of Carlisle point, and the 
opposite bay of Nipisiguit, the depth decreases to less than 30 fathoms, 
but there is still sufficient warning everywhere by the lead quite up to 
the head of the bay. 

The northern and western coast of Miscou island from North 
point trends westward about % mile, when it turns southward for 
2^ miles, then southwestward for 4 miles to Goose Lake lighthouse, 
and thence continues about southward 1J miles to Herring point. 

About 3^ miles north-northeastward of Goose Lake lighthouse 
there is an opening in the trees which extends across the island, and 
this opening has been mistaken at night or in foggy weather either 
for the harbor or the gully, according as it was seen from westward 
or eastward of the island. During summer there is moderately 
good anchorage in 10 to 11 fathoms, with this opening bearing 128°. 

Lights. —A square white lighthouse, 28 feet high, on the western 
coast of Miscou island at Goose lake, exhibits, at 40 feet above high 
water, a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy 
every minute, and should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 10 
miles. 

A mast, 35 feet high, with a shed at its base standing on a low 
cribwork pier, all painted white, at Harper point, southeast of Her¬ 
ring point, at the western entrance to Miscou harbor, exhibits, at 48 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in 
all directions of approach by water, in clear weather, a distance of 
12 miles. 

Signal station. —At Goose Lake lighthouse there *is a signal sta¬ 
tion, which is connected with Shippigan by telephone. 


270 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Miscou fiat. —This flat, which is of sandstone, begins about 3 miles 
northward of Goose Lake lighthouse and continues south westward to 
Miscou channel. The 5 fathoms edge of the flat is fully 4J miles 
northwestward of Goose Lake lighthouse, and there are not more than 
3 fathoms at the distance of 2J miles from the same point. 

Miscou harbor, frequently called Little Shippigan by the fisher¬ 
men, lies between Miscou and Shippigan islands, and just within 
the sandy spit at the southwestern end of Miscou, where the space 
of water, 4 to 6 fathoms deep, forming the harbor for large vessels, 
is 400 yards wide and upward of 1 mile in length. The harbor for 
small craft is of considerably greater breadth, with 2 to 2J fathoms 
water, and also a narrow channel extending eastward through the 
flats of mud and weeds to within 1 mile of Miscou gully. The bot¬ 
tom within the harbor is soft mud; in Miscou channel, just outside 
the entrance, sand; and between the shoals, farther out, sandstone. 

Miscou channel, leading to the harbor, between Miscou flat on the 
northeast and Shippigan flat and Shippigan shoals on the southwest, 
is in one part only 375 yards wide, between shoals so steep that there 
is not the slightest warning by the lead. The harbor is much fre¬ 
quented by American fishermen. A wharf is constructed on the shore 
of the harbor to afford landing facilities. 

Directions. —No vessels, except small ones, should attempt Miscou 
harbor without a pilot or having first buoyed the channel. If draw¬ 
ing 12 feet or less the following directions may be used, but much 
caution is necessary: From the northeastward, cross Miscou flat to the 
southwestward, at 3 miles offshore and in not less than 4 fathoms 
water; from the westward follow the northern edge of the Shippigan 
flat, in 4 to 5 fathoms. Enter Miscou channel with the northeastern 
end of the trees on Shippigan island just open southwestward of the 
southwestern end of the trees on Miscou island, or keep the former in 
line with the extreme of the sandy spit at the southwestern end of 
Miscou island, bearing a little eastward of 111°, the latter being pref¬ 
erable if it can be made out. When the water shoals to less than 4 
fathoms, which will be on a point of Miscou flat, sheer to the south- 
westward for about \ mile, or so as to deepen the water to 4 and 5 
fathoms; then steer 117°, or for Pandora point, a wooded extreme of 
Shippigan, ^ mile within Pecten point, which is the sandy southern 
entrance point of the harbor. 

In running this course a bay in Miscou flat is crossed in 4 and 5 
fathoms; if the soundings deepen to more than the latter depth at low 
water sheer to the eastward, in order to keep on the Miscou, or least 
dangerous side,, of the channel, for which the lead is the guide, as 
there are 8 to 9 fathoms in the channel. When the points on the 
northern side of Shippigan come in line 229°, and a high sand hill, 
on the sand bars at the head of the harbor, is in line with the high- 


SHIPPIGAN FLAT-POKESUEDIE SHOAL. 


271 


water extreme of Miscou sandy spit 97°, the narrow part of the 
channel is reached. Thence follow the edge, of Miscou flat in 4 to 6 
fathoms, sheering to the eastward when the depth is over 6 fathoms, 
and to the southward when it is less than 4 fathoms, but keeping a 
general course toward Pandora point until the points on the south¬ 
eastern coast of Miscou island, within the harbor, open, bearing 49°. 
There is then safe anchorage, although it is outside the harbor en¬ 
trance. To proceed farther in, steer for the high sand hill on the 
sand bars, with the hill bearing about 83°, and when within the sandy 
point steer about 66°, or for the gully, for a short distance, and 
anchor. — 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, in 
Miscou harbor at 2h. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. The 
streams appear to set fairly in and out of the harbor at a rate gen¬ 
erally less than 1 knot. 

Shippigan flat, which separates Miscou and Shippigan channels, 
is a sandstone shoal extending westward nearly 5 miles from My a 
point, the northern end of Shippigan island; it is thinly and partly 
covered with sand and has in some places a depth of only 5 feet water. 
There is good warning by the lead along its northern side, which may 
be approached to from 6 to 3 fathoms, according to the vessel’s draft. 

Buoy. —A can buoy, painted red and black in horizontal bands, is 
moored on the middle of Ship flat, a shoal on Shippigan flat, which 
has 5 to 7 feet water on it, and is £ mile long, east and west, and 400 
yards broad. From the buoy Goose Lake lighthouse bears 55°, distant 
about 3.8 miles. 

Pokesuedie shoal, having only 6 to .9 feet water over its greater 
part, is a flat of sand extending northward and eastward 2 miles from 
Pokesuedie island, which lies about 1J miles westward of the south¬ 
western part of Shippigan island. 

Caraquet church steeple and the southeastern sandy point of Cara- 
quet island in line, 243°, leads over its northern part in 2 fathoms, and 
the steeple half way between the extreme sandy point and the end of 
the trees on Caraquet island leads northward of the shoal in 4| 
fathoms, but as both the sandy point and the trees may change, these 
marks should not be used without examination. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, on the northeast¬ 
ern point of Pokesuedie island, exhibits, at 41 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance 
of 11 miles. 

Fog signal. —A hand horn at the lighthouse answers vessels’ 
signals. 

Shippigan (Shippegan) sound, between Shippigan island on 
the east and Pokesuedie island and the mainland on the west, is ex- 


272 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


tensive, the sound proper being nearly 3 miles long north and south 
and 2 miles broad. 

Little Alemek bay, on the northeastern side of Shippigan sound, 
is shallow, but there is good anchorage off its mouth. 

Alemek bay, the next bay southward of Little Alemek bay, is an 
excellent harbor with 3 to 4 fathoms water, and secure in all winds. 
On Alexander point, the northern part of the bay, is a windmill. 
Alemek village and church are at the head of this bay; it is a fishing 
settlement from which large shipments of fish are annually made. 

There is a wharf at Alemek 990 feet long, with a depth of 9f feet at 
its outer end at low water. 

A bar of mud and sand extends across the sound from Alexander 
point to Brule point, which limits the depth that can be carried into 
Alemek bay and into Shippigan harbor to 2J fathoms at low water. 

Shippigan harbor. —On the mainland, nearly opposite Paint 
point, the southern point of Alemek bay, is Bernache point, on which 
is a windmill and which is the sandy northern point of Basse bay, 
the latter being small and shallow. On the southern point of Basse 
bay and f mile southward of the windmill, stands Shippigan village 
and church; and off them is Shippigan harbor, which is a narrow 
channel, with 2 to 4 fathoms water, between shoals of mud and eel- 
grass nearly dry at low tide. This narrow channel continues 2J 
miles beyond the church, terminating at Shippigan gully, the south¬ 
ern entrance of the sound. Shippigan harbor is quite secure in all 
winds, and most of the A^essels which visit the place for timber moor 
there. The watering place is at a small stream in Basse bay a short 
distance westward of the church. 

The terminal station of the Caraquet railway is at Shippigan. 

Buoys. —The channel leading to the harbor, and the harbor itself, 
are buoyed with red and black buoys. 

Caribou bay. —Almost opposite Shippigan village is Caribou 
point. Caribou bay and cove extend eastward from the point for 1 
mile, and southeastward to Shippigan Gully point, the southern 
point of Shippigan island. With the exception of a very narrow and 
intricate channel the bay consists of sand, mud, and weeds, nearly dry 
at low water. 

Simon inlet, which is the best harbor in Shippigan sound, is on 
the western side of the sound, and within its entrance between Brule 
and Marcelle points there is landlocked anchorage in 4 to 44 fathoms, 
with sufficient space for large vessels. 

Ice. —The sound is usually frozen over about December 1 and 
clear of ice about May 10, being completely closed between those dates. 
The first vessel arrives from sea about May 21, and the last one leaves 


SHIPPIGAN HARBOR. 


273 


about November 13. In 1876 field ice drifted into Shippigan sound 
on May 14 and did not disappear until June 4. 

Shippigan channel leading into the sound from the northward 
is deep, but the passage is narrow and crooked, and without leading 
marks; therefore the channel is difficult. Between Pokesuedie and 
Shippigan shoals, which are exceedingly steep for a distance of 3 
miles, the breadth of the channel is only 500 to 800 yards. The whole 
distance from Shippigan flat to Shippigan church is about 8 miles. 

Buoys. —A black buoy is moored in 3 fathoms on the outer edge of 
the shoal extending from Skait point, the western point of Shippigan 
island, and with that point bearing 96°, distant 1^ miles. A red 
buoy is moored on the western side of Shippigan channel with Poke¬ 
suedie lighthouse bearing 206°, distant 1} miles; a similar buoy is 
moored on the same side of the channel with the lighthouse, bearing 
282°, distant 1 mile. 

The channel leading to Shippigan harbor is marked by buoys and 
stakes, red marks being left on the starboard hand, and black marks 
on the port hand, entering from the northward, as far southward as 
the government wharf. 

Directions. —Approach the channel with Marcelle and Pokesuedie 
points in line, 179°. After passing the western end of Shippigan 
flat the depth is 7 fathoms in the channel, but it decreases as Poke¬ 
suedie shoal is neared. When Goose Lake lighthouse bears 66°, steer 
so as to leave the black buoy off Skait point on the port hand, and the 
red buoy on the northeastern end of Pokesuedie shoal on the star¬ 
board hand. Then steer toward Marcelle point until the northern 
extreme of Pokesuedie island bears 268°, when alter course so as to 
leave the red buoy southeastward of the lighthouse on the starboard 
hand. A 179° course then leads direct to Shippigan harbor en¬ 
trance ; and in proceeding up the channel to the harbor leave the red 
buoys and marks on the starboard hand and the black buoys and 
marks on the port hand, southward to the government wharf. As 
the shoals have not been examined for some time caution is necessary, 
especially in a vessel drawing 12 feet or more. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, in 
Shippigan harbor at 3h. 42m.; springs rise 5J feet, neaps 3 feet. 
The rate of the tidal streams seldom exceeds 1 knot even in Shippigan 
channel, where, of course, they are stronger than elsewhere. In 
Shippigan harbor the stream is regular in fine weather, running in 
at the gully, and northward through the sound into Chaleur bay, 
from about half ebb to half flood on the shore, and in the reverse 
direction or southward from about half flood to half ebb. 


50918—0J 


-18 


274 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


These tidal directions are not complete, as the data obtained dur¬ 
ing the comparatively short time occupied by the survey were not 
full. 

Storm signals are shown at Shippigan. 

Caraquet island, which lies westward about 3 miles from Poke- 
suedie island, is of sandstone, low and wooded, and is If miles long 
west and east. Sandy points extend from both ends of the island 
toward the mainland so as to form a bay, in which there is landlocked 
anchorage in 17 to 6 feet water. The island rises from an extensive 
bank of flat sandstone, partly covered with sand, and, commencing at 
the entrance of Shippigan sound, extends westward to Mizzenette 
point, a distance of about 8 miles. There is no passage for shipping 
between Caraquet island and Mizzenette point, the western point of 
Caraquet bay, situated westward nearly 3 miles from the island; but 
near the island there is a narrow channel for boats or very small craft. 

Light. —A square, white lighthouse on a dwelling, 43 feet high, on 
the western side of Caraquet island, exhibits at 49 feet above high 
water a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 14 miles. 

Caraquet shoal extends 4J miles east-northeastward of Caraquet 
island, from which it dries to the distance of 2 miles, and is shallow 
in every part. From its eastern end, Caraquet church steeple and 
the southeastern end of the trees on Caraquet island are in line, bear¬ 
ing 243°. Shippigan church in line with Pokesuedie point, bearing 
159°, leads close eastward of the shoal in 3 fathoms. A vessel requir¬ 
ing deeper water should pass farther to the eastward by keeping 
Marcelle and Pokesuedie points in line, bearing 179°. 

Caraquet (Caraquette) channel, between Pokesuedie and Cara¬ 
quet shoals, forms the entrance to Caraquet harbor for a distance of 
2-J miles, and has water enough for vessels of heavy draft, but it is 
crooked, and only 450 yards wide between very steep shoals. 

Caraquet harbor commences immediately within, or to the west¬ 
ward of Pokesuedie island, and extends westward between the main¬ 
land and Caraquet shoal and island. The houses and fish stores of 
Lower Caraquet are on the mainland nearly opposite the island, and 
Upper Caraquet church stands conspicuously on a ridge about 2^ 
miles farther westward. In the eastern part of the harbor, immedi¬ 
ately within Pokesuedie, there is a depth of 5 to 6 fathoms, and there 
is not less than 3J fathoms till within \ mile of the southeastern point 
of Caraquet island. The channel between the island and the main¬ 
land is only 250 yards wide and carries 2^ fathoms water, but farther 
westward it increases to \ mile wide and 4J fathoms water, and is 
there sheltered by Mizzenette sands, which dry at low water from 


CARAQUET BAY. 275 

Mizzenette point nearly across to Caraquet island. The bottom is of 
mud in Caraquet harbor, and of sand in Caraquet channel. 

Caraquet is an excellent harbor for vessels of moderate draft, and 
it is even capable of affording anchorage to large vessels; yet caution 
is necessary in navigation, as its approach is between shoals extend¬ 
ing several miles from the shore, and the channel is very narrow and 
steep-to. A depth of 23 feet can be carried in at low water sufficiently 
far for vessels to be anchored in safety in that depth. 

Caraquet bay extends 4} miles westward within Mizzenette point 
and is shoal except the narrow channel containing the harbor. Two 
shallow rivers, the South and the North, in the mouths of which there 
are oyster beds, flow into the bay. The best watering place is at a 
small stream, which descends the steep banks of the harbor near 
Brideau point. 

Caraquet range lights. —A square white lighthouse, 30 feet high, 
situated on the mainland 128°, a little more than 1 mile from Sandy 
point of Caraquet island, exhibits at 31 feet above high water a 
fixed white light, which should be seen in all directions seaward in 
clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, 45 feet high, situated 227°, 1,267 yards from 
the preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 70 feet above high water a fixed 
white light, which should be seen in clear weather on the range 
line a distance of 10 miles. 

These lights in line, 227°, lead into Caraquet harbor through Cara¬ 
quet channel. The alignment should be taken at the red buoy moored 
in the junction of Caraquet and Shippigan channels and kept until 
the black buoy, 1J miles outside the front light, is abeam, whence 
the course up the harbor is 247°. 

Buoys.— Caraquet channel and harbor are marked by four red can 
buoys, which are left on the starboard hand entering, and by three 
black can buoys, which are left on the port hand. 

Ice. —Caraquet harbor is usually frozen over about December 11 
and is clear of ice about May 8, being completely closed between 
those dates. The first vessel arrives from sea about May 12 and the 
last one leaves about November 25. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Caraquet harbor at 
2h. 40m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Directions. —Winds from west-northwest, through north, to south¬ 
east, are fair for entering Caraquet harbor. From the north¬ 
eastward and about 2 miles northwestward of North point of 
Miscou, steer southwestward, in not less than 8 fathoms water, till 
Marcelle point, the wooded southern end of Pokesuedie island, is 
in line with Pokesuedie Point lighthouse, bearing 179°; keep this 


276 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—WEST SHORE. 

range and pass 4 mile westward of the northwestern end of Ship- 
pigan flat until the leading lighthouses at Caraquet are in line. 
227°. Keep these lighthouses in line through Caraquet channel, 
leaving the black buoys on the port hand, until nearly abreast the 
black buoy situated nearly 1^ miles seaward of the front lighthouse, 
when alter course to 247° for the anchorage, using the chart as a 
guide. 

From the westward, in a large vessel, pass northward of Fishef- 
man ledge, not going southward into less than 6 fathoms at low 
water, and when Marcelle point and Pokesuedie Point lighthouse 
are in line, bearing 179°, proceed as before directed. A small 
vessel may pass through Fisherman channel, and when Shippigan 
church is in line with Pokesuedie point, bearing 156°, she may 
keep that range on and steer over the tail of Caraquet shoal in 3 
fathoms; as soon as the lighthouses at Caraquet are in line, 227°, she 
may proceed as above directed. 

Caraquet village, on the southern side of the harbor, is a thriving 
fishing settlement, and Upper Caraquet, about 3 miles farther west¬ 
ward, where there is a station of the Caraquet railway, is a place 
of shipment for oysters and flour. 

The population is about 4,074. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Caraquet. 

Wharves.—A wharf, 1,200 feet long, with an L 100 feet long at 
the outer end, where there is a depth of 6 feet, extends from the 
watering place about 800 yards eastward of Brideau point. 

A wharf, 1,700 feet long, is constructed at Caraquet, and there is 
a depth of 22 feet at low water alongside its outer part for a length 
of 300 feet. 

The wharves are for the shipment of lumber manufactured in the 
locality. 

There is a landing and shipping wharf at Upper Caraquet. 

Mizzenette ledge of rocks, with 5 feet least water over it, lies on 
the western part of Caraquet bank and near its northern ridge, with 
Caraquet Island lighthouse bearing 134°, 1£ miles. Donax point, just 
open northward of Mizzenette point, bearing 263°, leads northward of 
it, in 3^ fathoms. This mark also leads along the northern edge of 
Caraquet bank eastward nearly to Scollop patch, which has 14 feet 
least water over a rocky bottom, and from which the northwestern 
end of Caraquet island and Caraquet church are in line, the south¬ 
eastern end of the island bearing 184°, distant nearly 2 miles. The 
mark for clearing the northern edge of Caraquet shoal to the east¬ 
ward of Scollop patch, and in 3 fathoms water, is the southern end of 
Miscou island, well open northward of the northern point of Ship¬ 
pigan island, bearing 77°. As these marks are low and distant and 


FISHERMAN LEDGE-GRINDSTONE POINT. 


277 


often not well defined, they should not be trusted, but the northern 
edge of the shoal should not be approached to a depth less than 4 
fathoms at low water. 

Fisherman ledge is a detached bed of rocks, with 10 feet least 
water, lying northward of Caraquet bank, and separated from it by 
Fisherman channel, which is 1 mile wide and carries 4 to 7 fathoms 
water. The ledge, for which there are no clearing marks, is If 
miles long, east-northeast and west-southwest, and 600 yards wide 
between depths of 3 fathoms. Its northern edge is 3 miles distant 
from Caraquet island, and its eastern and western ends bear 0° 
from the corresponding points of the island. The points of cliff at 
Grande Anse and Donax point in line, bearing 259°, leads through 
Fisherman channel; but this channel has not been closely examined, 
and is not recommended for large vessels. 

The shore of the bay from Mizzenette point to Bathurst harbor, 
a distance of 29 miles, is for the most part sandstone cliffs, 100 to 
200 feet in height, but is composed of very low sand hills near Miz¬ 
zenette point, where there is a landing wharf, 500 feet in length. 
About 3 miles westward of that point, where the sandy cliffs com¬ 
mence, shoal water extends rather more than 4 mile from the shore, 
but generally it does not extend more than 500 yards, and, with care, 
the coast may even be approached by the lead to 10 or 12 fathoms, 
the greater depth being quite near enough at night. There are set¬ 
tlements all along the coast, and villages and fishing establishments 
at Grande Anse and Pokeshaw. 

Grande Anse, 8 miles westward of Mizzenette point, is a fishing 
settlement of 700 to 800 inhabitants, possessing a church and a station 
of the Caraquet railway. A boat harbor has been formed by a break¬ 
water into the ba}\ At Pokeshaw, 11 miles westward of Mizzenette 
point, there is a little bay where boats shelter and a small river, also 
a railway station. 

Grindstone point, where there is a breakwater, 750 feet long, af¬ 
fording shelter to small fishing craft and schooners engaged in the 
export of grindstones, etc., is nearly 16 miles westward of Mizzenette 
point. The place, near which there is a station of the Caraquet rail¬ 
way, is known as Clifton (Stonehaven.) 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 37 feet high, situated at the 
shore end of Stonehaven breakwater at Grindstone point, exhibits, 
at 88 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

The coast from Grindstone point continues west-south westward 
for 94 miles to Salmon (Belloni) point, which is on the eastern side 
of Bathurst harbor entrance. 


278 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Norton shoal, f mile offshore, 1 mile westward of Norton point, 
which is 3| miles westward of Grindstone point, has a depth of 3 
fathoms over it, and is the only detached danger from Mizzenette 
point to Bathurst harbor. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 22 feet high, on Salmon point, 
exhibits, at 30 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen from all points of approach by water, in clear weather, 
a distance of 10 miles. 

Bathurst harbor, at the mouth of Nipisiguit river, is 400 yards 
wide at the entrance between Carron point, which is 2| miles west¬ 
ward of Salmon point and Alston point; both these points are sand, 
with stores and buildings upon them. 

There is a bar at the entrance of the harbor, and the narrow 
channel over it has a depth of 7 feet at low water springs at its 
shoalest part. The distance from outside the bar in 3 fathoms to the 
entrance of the river is 1J miles, and for the whole of that distance 
the very narrow channel runs between sandy shoals, nearly dry 
at low water, and extending from both sides of the river’s mouth. 

Within the entrance there is an extensive and well sheltered basin 
nearly 3 miles long and 2 miles wide, but nearly all dry at low water, 
excepting the channels of four rivers, which, after uniting their 
streams below Bathurst, flow to the entrance by Main channel. On 
the eastern side of the basin there is an islet called Indian or Bathurst 
islet. 

One-half mile westward of the town, and northward of the mouth 
of Middle and North rivers, is Peter point, with its church and village 
of Acadian French. On the northern side of Peter point Tetagouche 
river enters a bay on the northwestern side of the basin. None of 
these streams are navigable for any distance; even the Nipisiguit, 
which is by far the largest and a very considerable river, ceases to be 
navigable 14 miles above Bathurst, where the tide ends and rapids 
begin. 

Range lights. —A square white lighthouse, 33 feet high, on Car¬ 
ron point, exhibits, at 31 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 

A square lighthouse, painted red and white in stripes, situated 207°. 
120 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 43 feet above 
high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 8 miles. 

Note.— The lighthouses on Carron point in line now lead to the 
westward of the outer bar buoy, shoals having extended eastward 
since the lighthouses were moved. 

Buoys. —There is a black buoy moored in 7 fathoms water about 
1 mile northeastward of the outer bar buoy. The outer end of the 


BATHURST HARBOR. 


279 


channel over the bar is marked by a red conical buoy, which is now 
moored to the eastward of the alignment of the range lights, and 
must be left on the starboard hand entering. Between this buoy and 
Carron point the channel is marked by a red cask buoy, a black cask 
buoy, and a red conical buoy. Inside the point the eastern and west¬ 
ern channels in the harbor are marked by cask buoys and by casks set 
on clusters of piles, colored according to the Canadian system of 
buoyage. 

Anchorage. —Vessels usually moor, to load timber, just outside 
the entrance between the sandy points where there are 3 to 4 fathoms 
water sheltered by the bar and the sandy shoals on either side. Some 
smaller vessels load within the entrance and some larger ones com¬ 
plete loading outside the bar, where the anchorage in 6 to 7 fathoms, 
mud bottom, is considered safe in summer, although northeasterly 
gales send in a heavy sea. 

Directions. —Local knowledge is necessary to enter Bathurst 
harbor, and the bar should not be attempted without a pilot. A depth 
of 14 feet at high water springs can be carried up to the town wharf, 
and in Main channel there are several places where vessels lie afloat 
and load in 14 feet at low water. 

Pilots. —There are good pilots whose services are absolutely neces¬ 
sary for Bathurst harbor. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Bathurst at 3h. 15m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 4 feet. The rate of 
the tidal streams in Main channel is about 2 knots, and over the bar 
about 1J knots. The streams set fair in and out, and over the bar. 

Bathurst, the shire town of the county of Gloucester, having a 
population of about 1,500, is well situated at the head of the basin 
described above, 2| miles within its entrance, and on the point which 
divides Nipisiguit river from North and Middle rivers. It is a lum¬ 
ber port, but the salmon fishery is carried on extensively. There is a 
seamen’s hospital. 

Communication. —There is a station of the Intercolonial railway 
at Bathurst, which is also the western terminus of the Caraquet rail¬ 
way. The town has telegraphic communication. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Bathurst. 

Wharf. —At Bathurst there is a wharf, 174 feet long, having a 
depth of 7 to 10 feet at low water along its channel side and outer end. 

The coast from Alston point to Dalliousie point is low and com¬ 
posed of sandstone, limestone, and trap rocks. From Alston point 
it trends north-northwestward, and at 8| miles distance is Rochette 
village and church; 8 miles farther in the same direction is Belledune 
point, which is low and sandy. Little Belledune point is 3 miles 


280 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


west-northwestward of Belledune point. Between Alston and Little 
Belledune points shoal water extends generally from about f to ^ mile 
offshore, which should not be approached in a vessel of heavy draft 
to a depth of less than 10 fathoms, especially at night. 

Petit Rocher, 1J miles northward of Rochette, is a farming, 
fishing, and lumbering settlement. A breakwater is constructed here. 

Lights. —A square white lighthouse, 31 feet high, at Petit Rocher, 
on Elm Tree point, exhibits, at 36 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

A white octagonal tower, 55 feet high, having sloping sides, and sur¬ 
mounted by a red circular lantern, on Little Belledune point, exhibits, 
at 62 feet above high water, a fixed white light, varied by a white 
flash every 30 seconds, that should be seen in clear weather from all 
points of approach 13 miles. 

The coast from little Belledune point takes a westerly direction 
for 9 miles to Black point. Shoal water extends generally f mile off 
the coast, but it is reported to extend 1J miles northward of the en¬ 
trance of Jacquet river, which lies 5^ miles westward of Little Belle¬ 
dune point. The coast should not be approached in a large vessel to 
less than 10 fathoms. 

Anchorage.— There is anchorage in 4 fathoms, mud, in the bay of 
Nash river, with Black point bearing 293°, distant 1 mile; and al¬ 
though the anchorage is open to easterly winds, the bottom is good 
holding ground, and the anchorage is considered safe in summer. 

Heron island, the southeastern point of which lies 354°, 1.6 miles 
from Black point, is 4 miles long, northwest and southeast, with a 
width varying from a narrow neck to 1 mile; it is moderately high 
and wooded, and its northeastern shore generally is composed of red 
sandstone cliffs, about 40 feet in height. Shoal water extends f mile 
off its southeastern point, and the 3-fathom curve is J mile off the 
northeastern side of the island; shoal water also extends f mile 
northwestward of its northwestern point. 

Light. —A square, white lighthouse, 20 feet high, on the north¬ 
eastern side of Heron island, 1.3 miles from its southeastern end, 
exhibits, at 66 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 15 miles. 

Buoys. —A black can buoy is moored in 4 fathoms with the south¬ 
eastern point of Heron island bearing 280°, distant 1,400 yards, and 
Heron Island lighthouse bearing 302°. 

A red spar buoy is moored in 3 fathoms with the northwestern end 
of Heron island bearing 101°, distant ^ mile. 

Heron channel, between Heron island and the mainland, has a 
least depth of 3 fathoms in it, but its width is reduced in some places 


HERON ROCK—MAGUACHA SPIT. 281 

to a little more than 200 yards by the shoals which extend off both 
sides. 

Heron rock, small, with 6 feet water on it and 4 to 5 fathoms 
close around, lies nearly in mid-channel with the southeastern end of 
Heron island bearing 44°, distant a little more than 1 mile. A rock, 
almost always above water, lies 600 yards westward of Heron rock; 
it is bold and on the edge of the shoal off the mainland. 

Buoy. —A red can buoy is moored on Heron rock and must be left 
on the starboard hand by vessels passing through to westward. 

To clear Heron rock, pass from 200 to 400 yards eastward of the 
rock that is generally above water, leaving Heron Rock buoy on the 
starboard hand when standing through to the westward. Heron 
channel is intricate and dangerous for a vessel of any size, and a 
good pilot is necessary. 

The coast from Black point trends west-northwestward for 11 
miles, when it turns northward for about 2| miles to Bon Amie point, 
the southern entrance point of Restigouche river. There is good 
anchorage in 4 fathoms, mud, westward of Heron island, and nearly 
midway between it and Charlo river. This river, the entrance to 
which bears 247°, 3£ miles from the northwestern point of Heron 
island, admits only boats. In 1882 a heavy lumber boom was moored 
across the river. The sandy beach toward the head of Chaleur bay 
may be safely approached to the depth of 7 fathoms. 

Bon Amie rocks extend nearly 800 yards southeastward from a 
point situated £ mile south westward of Bon Amie point; they are 
steep, high, rough, and broken. 

Shoal water of less than 5 fathoms extends 300 yards southeast¬ 
ward of Bon Amie rocks, and continues to about £ mile northeast¬ 
ward of Bon Amie point, and thence to Dalhousie island. 

Light.— A square white, lighthouse, 33 feet high, on Bon Amie 
point, exhibits, at 49 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 13 miles. 

Restigouche river entrance lies between Bon Amie rocks and 
Maguacha point, on the Quebec side, where there are steep, red sand¬ 
stone cliffs, which bear 70°, distant 2 miles from the rocks. 

Maguacha spit, of sand and stones with only 6 feet over it at low 
water, runs westward nearly 1 mile from Maguacha point, or toward 
Bon Amie rocks, thus occupying half the channel; its southwestern 
extreme is steep-to. 

Clearing marks.— The highest summit of mount Scaumenac 
(1,745 feet high) open southwestward of Dalhousie island leads 
southwestward of the spit. The southern side of the spit is cleared by 
keeping the southern extreme of mount Carleton (1,830 feet high) 
open southward of Maguacha point. 


282 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Buoy. —A red conical buoy is moored in 2J fathoms at the end of 
Maguacha spit, with Maguacha point bearing 68°, distant about 
1,800 yards. 

Dalhousie harbor. —Dalhousie island (locally Douglas island), 
1,600 yards northwestward of Bon Amie point, is 400 yards long, 
high and rocky, round backed, wooded, and joined by a shoal which 
dries, to the low point of Dalhousie, situated 200 yards southwest- 
ward. On that point there are large storehouses belonging to Dal¬ 
housie town, which is on the side of a hill to the southwestward of the 
island. Six hundred yards westward of Dalhousie island there is a 
small rocky peninsula, named Montgomery island, at the end of a 
narrow sandy spit, forming the western side of the small and shallow 
bay of Dalhousie. Shallow water extends from the island to the 
peninsula, continuing to the westward, but between this shallow 
water and the flats to the northward is a space about 1 mile long and 
from 300 to 600 yards wide and carrying from 4 to 7 fathoms water. 
This is Dalhousie harbor, where timber vessels moor, and which is 
quite secure in all winds. 

The harbor may be approached either through the direct channel, 
300 yards wide, between Middle ground and Dalhousie island, or 
round to the northward and westward of Middle ground, which latter 
route involves passing over a flat of 3 fathoms at low water. The 
narrow channel has good leading marks and carries 6 fathoms water. 

Lights. —An octagonal, white lighthouse, 53 feet high, with a red 
lantern, on the northern end of Dalhousie island, exhibits, at 63 feet 
above high water, a flashing white light, showing 1 flash every 7^ 
seconds, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 13 miles. 

Railway Wharf range.—A square, white lantern, 34 feet high, 
with a red top which projects through the roof of the railway freight 
shed, near the outer end of Dalhousie Railway wharf, exhibits, at 30 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in 
clear weather, on southwesterly bearings and also when in line with 
Montgomery Island light, a distance of 9 miles. 

A square, white lighthouse, with a red roof, 22 feet high, on the 
summit of Montgomery island, exhibits, at 34 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather, when in 
line with the Railway Wharf light, a distance of 9 miles. 

Montgomery Island lighthouse bears 137°, distant 99 yards from 
the Railway Wharf lighthouse, and the two in line lead to the Rail¬ 
way wharf, clear of all shoals. 

Middle ground, separated from Dalhousie island by the narrow 
harbor channel, is 1,100 yards long, north and south, and 800 yards 
wide. It is of sand and stones, and had a depth of 6 feet least water 
over it, but it is reported to have shoaled; it is very steep on its east- 


DALHOUSIE HARBOR. 


288 


ern side. The main channel between this shoal and the shore to the 
northward and eastward is about 1,300 yards wide, with depths of 6 
to 15 fathoms water. 

The rate of the tidal streams, which are stronger in this channel 
than elsewhere, does not exceed 2 knots. 

Buoys. —A black can buoy is moored in 2J fathoms water on the 
northeastern part of Middle ground. 

A red spar buoy is moored on the southeastern edge of Middle 
ground. 

Anchorage. —The best anchorage in Dalhousie harbor is in 6J or 
7 fathoms, with Dalhousie island and Bon Amie point in line. A 
third-class cruiser has anchored in about 4J fathoms with the Rail¬ 
road wharf bearing 209°, distant J mile. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, in 
Dalhousie harbor at 3h. 10m.; springs rise 9 feet, neaps 6 feet. The 
rate of the tidal streams in the entrance does not exceed 2 knots. 

Pilots can be obtained at Dalhousie for Restigouche river. 

Ice. —The harbor is usually frozen over about December 5, and 
clear of ice about April 15, being completely closed between those 
dates. The first vessel arrives from sea about May 14, and the last 
one leaves about November 11. 

Directions. —To enter Restigouche river and Dalhousie harbor: 
From midway between Heron island and Tracadigash point steer 
about 270° for Dalhousie hill (715 feet high). When about 1^ 
miles to the eastward of Maguac'ha point, bring the highest sum¬ 
mit of mount Scaumenac open southwestward of Dalhousie island, 
and keep this range steering southwestward of Maguacha spit, the 
buoy on the end of which is difficult to keep in position and therefore 
must not be implicitly trusted. Keep this range on until the south¬ 
eastern end of Bon Amie rocks bears about 231° and is distant about 
\ mile. Then steer about 321° until the Railroad wharf opens north¬ 
ward of Dalhousie island, when steer westward into the harbor by 
the narrow channel southward of Middle ground, leaving Dalhousie 
island to the southward at a distance of about 200 yards, and the 
buoy on the southeastern edge of Middle ground about 100 yards to 
the northward. 

To take the more roomy route northward of Middle ground, when 
the Railroad wharf opens northward of Dalhousie island, steer about 
337° till Montgomery Island lighthouse bears 219°, leaving the black 
buoy on the northeastern part of Middle ground to the westward. 
Then steer 270° till Dalhousie old church, which has a cupola but is 
not conspicuous, is in line with the Roman Catholic church, which has 
a spire, 171°; keep this range on, steering over the extensive 3 
fathoms flat to the westward of Middle ground, into the harbor. 


284 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


When beating in and standing northward toward Tracadigash spit 
keep Dalhousie hill open southward of Maguacha point. Westward 
of the spit vessels may stand in to 6 fathoms water, but there is 
no use in standing in to Carleton or Nouvelle bay out of a favorable 
tide. Toward Heron island, the highest summit of mount Scau- 
menac, open northward of Dalhousie island, clears the shoal water 
northward of Heron island in 4 fathoms. Tack, therefore, in the 
board to the southward when the mountain comes in line with the 
northern side of the island, or by the lead in 6 fathoms. Clear the 
reef off the western end of Heron island by keeping Charlo river 
bearing eastward of 180°. Vessels may then stand southward into 4 
fathoms, so long as the eastern side of Maguacha point bears north¬ 
ward of 11°, after which tack in the board to the southward in 7 
fathoms, because the flat of 2J to 3J fathoms in Eel bay becomes 
rather steep about 1J miles from Bon Amie rocks. 

Bon Amie rocks may be approached to 7 fathoms of water, and 
when they bear 236° the vessel is within the point of Maguacha spit, 
for which clearing marks have been given. From Bon Amie rocks to 
Dalhousie island a vessel may stand southwestward into 8 fathoms, 
but the eastern side of Middle ground should not be approached to less 
than 10 fathoms, and that with caution, for it is very steep; its north¬ 
ern side may be approached to 9 fathoms. Toward the northeastern 
shore a vessel may stand in to 9 fathoms between Maguacha spit and 
Yacta point, which point has a very steep shoal off it for 600 yards, 
and from Yacta point to Fleurant point a vessel may safely stand 
northward into 6 fathoms. 

Dalhousie, the shire town of Restigouche county, has a population 
of about 800 inhabitants. It is a lumber port from which nearly 
nineteen million superficial feet of lumber were shipped in 1901. It 
has also a trade in canned salmon and lobsters. 

Communication. —The Intercolonial railway has a station at Dal¬ 
housie, and there is a telegraph office. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Dalhousie. 

Supplies.— Fresh provisions can be obtained at Dalhousie. 

Restigouche river, from its entrance between Bon Amie and 
Maguacha points to the distance of 14 miles up, where islands, shal¬ 
lows, and rapids terminate navigation, excepting to canoes or bateaux, 
is an estuary or inlet of the bay with a breadth varying from 1^ to 3 
miles. At the above distance within its entrance, and on the southern 
shore at the foot of the Sugarloaf, a remarkable conical hill 950 feet 
high, is Campbell ton. Between Campbellton and Indian point, on 
the northern shore, the breadth of the estuary is only \ mile, but it 
expands again to 1J miles at its head just below the islands. At In¬ 
dian point, a mile above Campbellton, navigation for shipping ends, 


RESTIGOUCHE RIVER. 


285 


there being only 12 feet in a narrow channel at low water; but small 
craft ascend through very narrow passages, on either side, carrying 
6 to 9 feet water, to within J mile of the head of the estuary, where 
Restigouche river proper enters it through narrow channels between 
the islands, 21 miles from the head of Chaleur bay. 

There is a shallow part of the channel called the bar, over which 
there is a depth of 13 to 14 feet at low water, off Loup river, which 
enters a bay in the northern shore 2 miles below Campbellton; but 
vessels of moderate draft ascend at high water to Campbellton, off* 
which they moor in 3 to 3^ fathoms at low water. Vessels of 18 feet 
draft ascend at all times of the tide nearly to Oak point, which is about 
11J miles up, and within 1 mile of the bar; vessels of greater draft 
proceed nearly to Garde point, which is about 8 miles above the en¬ 
trance. The depth of water has, however, been increased in places 
by dredging. 

A pilot is not necessary to enter the inlet as far as the anchorage off 
Fleurant point, on the northern shore, but to proceed farther up a 
pilot is required, for there are no good leading marks, the shoals be¬ 
come too steep for the lead to give sufficient warning, and the channels 
are narrow. 

The scenery of the valley of the Restigouche compares favorably 
for grandeur and picturesque beauty with that of any other part of 
the gulf of St. Lawrence. On the northern or Quebec side of the 
estuary, at a distance of 2 to 3 miles from the shore, the mountains 
rise 1,000 to 1,745 feet above the sea; on the southern or New Bruns¬ 
wick side the wooded hills or ridges are much lower, although still of 
considerable elevation, the highest points being the Sugarloaf, 950 
feet, and Dalhousie hill, 715 feet above the sea. There are magnifi¬ 
cent cliffs, 200 feet high, of variegated sandstones and conglomerates; 
the sandstones and shales often containing vegetable remains and 
traces of coal. Limestones, sometimes curiously altered by trap rocks, 
at others abounding with organic remains, are occasionally met with, 
as also are trap rocks, abounding with zoolites, jaspers, cornelians, 
and agates. These last-named minerals, together with fragments of 
petrified wood, are found among the pebbles of the beaches more or 
less all over Chaleur bay, and especially at Paspebiac. They are 
known at Quebec by the name of Gaspe pebbles, and they are worked 
up into ornamental articles of jewelry. 

Anchorage.—The most convenient anchorage for vessels visiting 
the Restigouche for supplies of wood or water is anywhere off Fleur¬ 
ant point, on the northern shore, and about 2 miles northward of 
Dalhousie harbor, in 6 or 7 fathoms at low water, where a vessel can 
weigh in all winds and at all times of tide. 

Water. —There is a tolerably good watering place at a brook 
J mile westward of Fleurant point. 


286 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Mussel bank, a reef, extends out from the high cliffs, nearly half 
way across the estuary, about 1,600 yards above Fleur ant point. 

Gas buoys. —The following steel cylindrical buoys, surmounted 
by pyramidal steel frames supporting lanterns which exhibit inter¬ 
mittent lights, are moored in the position given. 

A black buoy showing red light off Fullerton’s bar, Scaumenac 
point, in 22 feet, on northern side of channel. 

A red buoy showing white light, in 26 feet water off Lalime (La- 
nim) point, southern shore. 

A red buoy showing white light, in 31 feet water, off Garde point, 
northern shore. 

A red buoy showing white light, in 15 feet water, off Battery point, 
northern shore, on western point opposite Traverse bar. 

A red buoy shoAving white light, in 14 feet water, in mid-channel 
opposite the sand bar westward of Oak point, northern shore. 

Liglitvessel.—A small lightvessel, with “ Garde point No. 6 ” 
painted on her sides, is moored on the northern side of the main chan¬ 
nel off Garde point, and exhibits, at 18 feet above water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, up and down stream, a 
distance of 8 miles. 

Range lights—Oak Point range.—A square white lighthouse, 
22 feet high, situated near the western end of Oak point, on the left 
bank of the estuary about 3J miles above Garde point, exhibits, at 52 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in 
clear weather, on, and over a small arc on each side of the range line, 
a distance of 12 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, on a hill at 45°, 744 yards from the preceding 
lighthouse, exhibits, at 121 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

Campbellton range. —A square white lighthouse, 22 feet high, on 
the pier beside the railroad wharf at Campbellton, on the right bank 
of the estuary about 3 miles above Oak point, exhibits, at 24 feet 
above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 9 miles. 

A similar lighthouse, 37 feet high, on Kilgour Shives wharf, at 
241°, 412 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 39 feet 
above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 9 miles. 

In proceeding up the river through the northern channel on a 
westerly course, when about 700 yards above Oak point, the range 
lighthouses on that point in line, bearing 45°, astern, lead diagonally 
across the river to the alignment of Campbellton range lighthouses 
241°, which alignment leads up to Campbellton wharves. 


CAMPBELLTON-CARLETON ROAD. 


287 


Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Campbellton at 4h. 
Cm.; springs rise 10 feet, neaps 7 feet. 

Campbellton, the northern town of the province of New Bruns¬ 
wick, 12 miles westward of Dalhousie, is an incorporated town of 
2,652 inhabitants, and is a lumber port from which over 24,000,000 
superficial feet of lumber were shipped in 1902. 

There is a wharf with a frontage of 250 feet and a depth of 12 feet 
alongside it at low' water. 

Communication. —The Intercolonial railway passes through 
Campbellton, where there is a station. 

The United States is represented by a consul and a vice and 
deputy consul. 

Quebec. 

Tracadigash point bears 79°, 7 miles from Maguacha point, and 
in the northwestern corner of the bay between them are Nouvelle 
basin and river, which are nearly dry at low water. 

Carleton road, an excellent and capacious anchorage, safe in all 
winds, is situated on the western side of Tracadigash point, which 
consists of sand, inclosing a shallow lagoon, capable of admitting 
boats, or very small craft, at high water. On the northern shore of 
this lagoon stand Carleton village and church, the former extending 
westward to the shore of the bay, where the sand beach of the lagoon 
joins the mainland. This village is in a most picturesque situation, 
and it is in great repute as a watering place for shipping. 

There is a station of the Atlantic and Lake Superior railway at 
Carleton. 

Wharves. —A pier 234 feet long, with an average depth of 10 feet 
at its outer end at low water springs, extends from the shore of 
Carleton road about f mile northward of Tracadigash point. 

A government wharf has been constructed near the point where 
the narrow peninsula inclosing the lagoon on its western side meets 
the mainland. From the outer end the wharf trends shoreward 74°. 
At the outer end the wharf is 39^ feet wide and carries that width 
for a length of 140 feet; from that point for 200 feet farther to the 
shore the wharf is 22 feet wide. 

A small stream, with a bridge across it, enters the northwestern 
corner of the lagoon, and 1 mile farther westward, near the commence¬ 
ment of the clay cliffs, is another small stream, which is the watering 
place. Immediately in rear of the village mount Carleton rises 
abruptly 1,830 feet above the sea, and the hills of the range trend 
from it both northward and westward for many miles. 

Lights. —A square white lighthouse, 28 feet high, on Tracadigash 
point, exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 


288 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 

should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. The light is 
obscured over the anchorage. 

A square white lighthouse, 20 feet from the outer end of the 
government wharf above mentioned, exhibits, at 20 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, that should be seen, in clear weather, from all 
points of approach by water a distance of 6 miles. 

Fog signal.— A hand horn at Tracadigash Point lighthouse 
answers vessels’ signals. 

Anchorage. —There is anchorage anywhere in Carleton road in 
5 to 6 fathoms, but it must be remembered that although the sandy 
beach of Tracadigash point is quite bold on its western side within 
the spit, yet shoal water extends nearly J mile off the mainland. The 
best berth, especially with easterly winds, is in 5J fathoms, mud, with 
Tracadigash point bearing 141° and Carleton church steeple 77°. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Tracadigash point at 
3h. 0m.; springs rise 8 feet, neaps 5 feet. The rate of the tidal 
streams in Carleton road seldom exceeds 1 knot. 

Tracadigash sand spit runs \ mile south-southwestward from 
Tracadigash point. 

Buoy. —A red can buoy is moored in 21 feet at low water, at the 
southern end of Tracadigash spit. 

Directions. —Maguacha point and Dalhousie hill summit in line, 
bearing 262°, leads close to the end of the spit in 3 fathoms. There¬ 
fore to clear the spit keep the hill well open, or at night do not go 
into less than 10 fathoms water. When Carleton church steeple is in 
line with the southwestern extreme of Tracadigash point, bearing 
32°, which leads northwestward of the outer end of the spit, haul in 
to the northward, not going into less than 7 fathoms till the point 
bears to the southward of 67°. 

Cascapediac bay, which lies between Tracadigash point and 
Black point, bearing 81°, 12-J miles, is 5 to 6 miles deep. Flowing 
into its head is Cascapediac river, a considerable stream, which can 
be entered only by boats, in consequence of the extensive shoals of 
sand and mud, which dry out 2 miles from its entrance, and occupy 
all the head of the bay. Black point, the eastern point of the bay, is 
bold and rocky, and rises 400 feet above the sea. The shoals com¬ 
mence about 1J miles northward of Black point, and at Indian point 
on the eastern side of Little river, about mile farther northward, 
they extend westward nearly If miles, sheltering the anchorage from 
southeasterly winds. 

The settlements on the western side of the bay are mostly of 
French Canadians and Acadians, and they extend alongshore all the 
way from Tracadigash point to the river. Inland of the settlements, 
from 2 to 3 miles, lies Carleton mountain range. 


DUTHIE POINT-BONAVENTURE POINT. 


289 


Duthie point, the eastern entrance point of Cascapediac river, 
bears 309°, 4J miles from Black point. One mile eastward of Duthie 
point, and in the bay between it and Little river, stand Richmond 
village and church. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, with sloping sides, 33 feet 
high, on the southwestern end of Duthie point, exhibits, at 50 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, from all points of approach by water, a distance of 12 miles. 

Buoys.—A black buoy is moored in 3 fathoms water 212°, 
miles from Duthie point; and a similar buoy is moored apparently 
on the end of the spit running off Indian point. 

Anchorage. —Timber vessels moor in 3 fathoms off Richmond 
village, with Duthie point bearing 336°, distant } mile, and the 
church 32°. There is also anchorage farther out in the bay in 4 to 
6 fathoms, with the church on the same line of bearing, or to the 
westward of it. but this anchorage is not so well sheltered from 
easterly winds. 

Directions. —From the eastward, keep Red point well open south¬ 
ward of Black point to clear the shoal off Indian point, and do not 
close the shoal to a depth of less than 4 fathoms until Richmond 
church bears 32°. Steer in with the church on this bearing until at 
the anchorage. 

Red point lies 108°, 8} miles from Black point, and at 3J miles 
from Black point the small river Caplin flows into the sea. A reef 
lies off the mouth of this river 4 mile from the shore. 

Bonaveiyture point, miles southeastward of Red point, is a 
low red sandstone cliff, with a thin superstratum of sand and clay 
containing tertiary shells. Bonaventure river, with 2 feet over its 
bar at low water, flows into the bay about 5^ miles from Red point; 
and Bonaventure village with a church having a •tall spire and a red 
roof lies on the northern side of its entrance. 

Shoal. —A rocky shoal runs southeastward round the bay from 
Red point to Bonaventure point, from which point it extends west¬ 
ward about 1J miles. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, with a red lantern, 34 feet 
high, on Bonaventure point, exhibits, at 52 feet above high water, a 
fixed white light, which should be seen, in all directions seaward, in 
clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

Anchorage. —There is good anchorage under Bonaventure point 
in easterly winds, in 6 fathoms, mud bottom, with Souris lighthouse 
bearing 103°, Bonaventure church 27°, and the river entrance 61°, 
1J miles. 


50918—08-19 


290 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Carlisle point, about east, 4J miles from Bonaventure point, is 
sand and wooded. Shoal water extends from 600 to 1,400 yards off 
the coast between Bonaventure and Carlisle points. 

New Carlisle, the shire town of Bonaventure county, with a jail 
and court house, stands on the ridge in rear of Carlisle point. 

Pier. —A pier, 676 feet long, with a depth of 16 feet at its outer end 
at low water, extends off the shore about 1,200 yards northeastward of 
Carlisle point. There is a freight shed on the outer end of the pier. 

Light. —A mast, 25 feet high, standing against the freight shed at 
the outer end of New Carlisle pier, exhibits, at 32 feet above high 
water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, in clear w T eather, a dis¬ 
tance of 2 miles. 

Paspebiac bay lies between Carlisle point and Paspebiac point, 
bearing 78° from the former. Paspebiac, on the northeastern shore 
of the bay, has an excellent roadstead, and is the principal fishing 
establishment in Chaleur bay. Paspebiac point is the end of a sand 
and shingle beach, triangular in shape, inclosing a lagoon and extend¬ 
ing 1 mile from the mainland. On its western side are the extensive 
white buildings of the establishment of Messrs. Robin & Co., also 
the prominent store with red windows of M. le Boutellier, which is 
the northern building on the point, standing somewhat aloof to the 
westward, together with numerous huts belonging to the fishermen. 
On the western side of the sandy point, and close to the cliffs, the 
lagoon has an outlet, which has a rough bridge across it and admits 
boats at high water. In rear of this the mainland rises gently 
from the edge of dark red sandstone cliffs, displaying fields of the 
richest green, and buildings which extend nearly from Carlisle. 
There are two small churches at Paspebiac. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 54 feet high, with a dwelling 
near, at 110 yards northward of the end of Paspebiac point, exhibits, 
at 50 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. The light shows red over the 
anchorage between the bearings of 89° and 135°. 

Fog signal. —A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Paspebiac sand spit, on which the general depth is 1J to 2} 
fathoms, extends nearly 1 mile southwestward from Paspebiac point 
to the depth of 5 fathoms. It is said to have extended since the sur¬ 
vey of 1839. 

Buoy. —A red buoy is moored at the western side of Paspebiac 
spit, in about 3 fathoms. 

Anchorage. —In the roadstead between Carlisle and Paspebiac 
points, but much nearer the latter, vessels are sheltered from 248°, 
through west, north, and east, to 112°; and, although it is completely 
open to southwesterly winds, which send in a very considerable swell, 


PASPEBIAC BAY. 


291 


yet the ground is so good that vessels ride here, moored, all through 
the season. The best anchorage is in 6 fathoms, clay bottom, with 
Robin’s flagstaff, the eastern one, adjacent to the store with a green 
veranda, and Single Tree point (the extreme to the eastward seen 
over the sandy point) in line, bearing 66°, and Paspebiac point 111°. 

Directions. —From the eastward, when within 2 miles of Paspe¬ 
biac point, keep the summit of Daniel hill open southward of Nou- 
velle point, bearing 49° until the Roman Catholic church (the east¬ 
ern church) is well open westward of Paspebiac point 0°. Then 
steer about 277° for Carlisle point, keeping the lead going till le Bou- 
tellier’s store is in line with the Roman Catholic church; now steer 
in for the anchorage, not opening the church eastward of the store 
until Single Tree point (the extreme to the eastward) is well shut in 
behind the sandy point, when the vessel is within the spit, and may 
anchor by the lead, or by a bearing of the lighthouse, at or near the 
position given above. 

From the westward, when off Carlisle point make a straight course 
for the anchorage; but in standing out from it with a westerly wind, 
and especially with an east-going stream, attend to the marks for 
clearing the spit to the westward. The Roman Catholic church must 
not be opened eastward of le Boutellier’s store until Single Tree point 
is well open southward of Paspebiac point, nor should the vessel bear 
up to the eastward of 156° until Daniel hill opens southward of 
Nouvelle point. 

Wharf. —There is a wharf 450 feet in length at Paspebiac (1905). 

Storm signals are exhibited at Paspebiac. 

Supplies of all kinds, but to a limited extent, may be obtained at 
Paspebiac, and there is an excellent watering place at a stream 
which falls from the cliffs just westward of the outlet of the lagoon. 

Railway. —The terminus of the Atlantic and Lake Superior Rail¬ 
way is at Paspebiac; the railway runs to Matapedia, where it connects 
with the Canadian Pacific railway. 

The United States is represented at Paspebiac by a consular 
agent. 

Nouvelle point, 56° nearly 5 miles from Paspebiac point, is a 
cliff of red sandstone, 100 feet in height. Nouvelle river, which 
flows into the sea on the eastern side of Nouvelle point, has a depth of 
2 feet over its bar at low water. On the sandy beach at its eastern 
entrance point there are fish stores and stages. 

The coast from Nouvelle river trends northeastward 9J miles to 
West point, which is craggy gray limestone, with a high semi-isolated 
rock at its southeastern extreme. 

Daniel hill, about 1 mile westward of West point, and the highest 
land close to the sea on this coast, rises 400 feet above the sea. 


292 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Port Daniel, the entrance of which lies between West point and 
Pillar point, 1J miles to the northeastward, is a fine bay, open to 
the eastward, and about 1| miles deep. In the northern corner of the 
bay | mile within White point, locally known as cap a l’Enfer, 
which lies about 274°, 1,200 yards from Pillar point, and is high and 
of white limestone, a small river enters the bay through a sandy 
beach, after descending a beautiful valley between wooded hills. 
There are many houses and stores near the entrance of this river, 
which admits boats only at high water, and is nearly dry at low 
water. 

A shoal extends J mile from the shore all around the port from 
West point to White point. On the northern side of West point 
there is a small cove, and good landing for boats. 

Anchorage.—The best anchorage in Port Daniel is in 6 to 7 
fathoms, mud or clay bottom, between White and West points, with 
the river entrance bearing 332°, and Reddish point and the southern 
part of Maquereau point in line 74°. This position is sheltered from 
eastnortheast, through north and west, to south, and with winds from 
between these directions, the anchorage is safe. Strong south¬ 
easterly winds send in a heavy swell, but there is no difficulty in 
getting out at their commencement, for the points are bold, and West 
point may be passed, at the distance of 400 yards. The ground is 
not good outside the line joining Pillar and West points. 

Wharf.—A wharf, 525 feet long, with a depth of 13 feet water at 
its outer end, extends in a 191° direction from the northwestern part 
of White point. 

Lights. —A white octagonal lighthouse, 33 feet high, situated 75 
yards from the eastern extremity of West point, exhibits, at 100 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear 
weather, from all points of approach, a distance of 15 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, 29 feet high, on the outer end of the 
wharf at White point, exhibits, at 31 feet above high water, a fixed 
red light, which should be seen in clear weather, from all directions 
seawards where not obscured by land, a distance of 11 miles. 

Pog signal. —A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Supplies of wood and water may be obtained at Port Daniel, but 
fresh provisions are not plentiful. 

The coast from Pillar point, close off which is a remarkable rock, 
trends eastward, nearly 3 miles to Reddish point, which is reddish 
limestone, and often appears like an island close to the shore; it 
thence continues east-northeastward, nearly 4 miles to Maquereau 
point. 

Light. —At Anse aux Gascons, nearly 1 mile eastward of Reddish 
point, there is a wharf, on the outer end of which a lantern on a pole 


MAQUEREAU POINT-GRAND RIVER. 


293 


exhibits, at 29 feet above high water, a fixed red light that should be 
visible in clear weather, from all points of approach, a distance of 7 
miles. 

Maquereau point, which is wooded, is bold and composed of dark 
colored craggy rocks rising about 200 feet above the sea. 

Light. —A white octagonal lighthouse, 51 feet high, with a red 
circular lantern, and having a white dwelling near, on Maquereau 
point, exhibits at 02 feet above high water, a flashing white light, 
showing groups of 3 bright flashes, with intervals of 2J seconds 
between the flashes, each group being followed by an eclipse of 10 
seconds. The light should be seen in clear weather, from all points 
of approach, a distance of 13 miles 

Fog signal. —A hand fog horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Signal station. —There is a signal and telegraph station at Ma¬ 
quereau point. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Maquereau point at 
2h. 0m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Newport, situated north-northeastward, 5| miles from Maquereau 
point, is a fishing place, where one or two small vessels moor within 
a shoal to take in fish during summer, but even then there is some 
risk. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 27 feet high, on an island off 
Newport point, nearly 1 mile east of Newport, exhibits, at 30 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 11 miles. 

Fog signal. —A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Great Pabou, a fishing place about 3 miles north-northeastward 
of Newport, and of considerable extent, is suitable only for very 
small craft; it had 4 feet over its bar at low water in 1839, but the 
depth and situation of the narrow channel change with easterly 
gales. 

Little Pabou, northeastward, 5 miles from Great Pabou, is a 
similar but much smaller place, with a foot of water over its bar 
at low water. 

Storm signals are displayed at St. Adelaide de Pabou. 

Grand river, nearly 4 miles east-northeastward of Little Pabou, 
is a considerable stream, but has only 2 feet over its bar at low water. 
There is a village and a considerable fishing establishment at its 
mouth, immediately westward of which a shoal extends fully \ mile 
offshore. 

Light. —A white hexagonal lighthouse, with a red lantern, 43 feet 
high, on the eastern side of Grand river entrance, exhibits at 52 feet 


294 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—WEST SHORE. 


above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen in clear 
weather, seaward and up the river, a distance of 8 miles. 

Fog signal. —A hand horn answers vessels’ signals. 

The coast from -Grand river trends eastward 6£ miles to cape 
Espoir, and has no detached dangers except some rocks close inshore, 
and about 1 mile to the westward of cape Espoir. 

Cape Espoir (d’Espoir), the northeastern point of Chaleur bay 
(baie de Chaleur), consists of red sandstone cliffs, without beach, 
and is of a moderate height. 

Light. —A white square wooden building, 43 feet high, near the 
extremity of the cape, exhibits, at 90 feet above high water, a revolv¬ 
ing white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every £ minute, 
and should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

A white dwelling with a red roof is attached to the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —A hand fog horn answers vessels’ signals. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
at this lighthouse. 

Leander shoal, lying southeastward 1.6 miles from cape Espoir, 
is about £ mile across, within depths of 4 fathoms, and it has a least 
depth of 1G feet, which, however, it is very difficult to find. The 
shoal is rocky, and there is a clear passage between it and the cape. 

Clearing marks. —White head, extreme in line with the north¬ 
western end of Perce rock, leads just outside of the shoal in 7 
fathoms; therefore the whole of Perce rock, well open eastward 
of White head, leads clear outside of all. From a half to the whole of 
the Perce rock shut in behind White head leads clear between the 
shoal and cape Espoir. 

Cock cove. —There is a basin at Cock cove, the first beach north¬ 
ward of cape Espoir, with two training piers, each 440 feet long. 

Buoy. —A red can buoy is moored in 4 fathoms water in the middle 
of Cock cove, to indicate the limit of fishing nets; vessels anchor out¬ 
side the buoy. 

Beau-fils bay lies between cape Espoir and White head, which 
bears 39° from the former. The bay is simply an indentation of the 
coast about 1£ miles deep. The 3-fathom line of soundings is £ mile 
from the shore, and beyond that line the soundings are 4 to 22 fath¬ 
oms. About 3} miles northeastward of cape Espoir red sandstone 
cliffs begin, and they continue to within 1 mile of White head. 

Storm signals are shown at anse au Beau-fils, which is about half 
way between cape Espoir and White head. 

Bonaventure island, situated directly eastward of White head, is 
400 feet high, and has bold and perpendicular cliffs of red sandstone 
and conglomerate on all sides except the western. These cliffs, in 


PERCE BAY. 


295 


places, attain a height of 250 feet above the sea, and their ledges and 
fissures are the habitation of innumerable gannets. Shoal water 
extends J mile from the western side, and there is anchorage in 15 
fathoms between it and White head, but the riding is insecure and 
heavy in consequence of the swell, which, in bad weather, rolls round 
the island. The channel between Bonaventure island and Perce rock 
is about 1.3 miles wide, and clear. 

Light.— A square white building, 29 feet high, on White head, the 
southwestern extreme of Perce bay, exhibits, at 149 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 13 miles. 

Fog signal.— A hand fog horn answers signals from vessels. 

Perce rock, 288 feet high, precipitous all round and bold to sea¬ 
ward, is narrow, about 500 yards long, west-northwest and east- 
southeast, and has a large hole perforated through it by the waves, 
through which a boat can pass at high water. A reef connects Perce 
rock with Perce point, and small vessels anchor off the northeastern 
side of the latter with westerly winds. 

Perce bay lies between White head and Perce rock. Perce reef 
extends 800 yards off the shore \ mile southwestward of Perce rock. 
Small vessels engaged in the fisheries anchor on either side of this 
reef with winds off the land, but it is dangerous, and not recom¬ 
mended for large vessels. The shore from White head to Perce rock 
is locally known as South beach, and the first small bay northwest¬ 
ward of Perce rock is known as North beach. 

Buoys.— A black can buoy is moored in 17 fathoms off South 
beach, with White head bearing 222°, distant 1,800 yards. 

A red can buoy is moored in 17 fathoms off North beach, with the 
northwestern end of Perce rock bearing 160°, distant 600 yards, and 
a rock with less than 6 feet water over it lies nearly 200 yards south¬ 
ward of this buoy. These buoys mark the outside limits of fishing 
nets, and vessels should not go nor anchor inside of them. 

Piers.—There is a landing pier in the southern cove and one in 
the northern cove, the latter being 670 feet long, with a depth of 13 
feet at its outer end at low water. 

Perce town, with a church and a population in 1901 of 1,868, prin¬ 
cipally engaged in the fisheries, occupies the shores of the bay, and the 
remarkable Perce mountain, or, as it is sometimes named, la Table 
Koulante, rises immediately from the town to the height of 1,230 
feet above the sea, and can be seen a distance of 40 miles from sea. 

A conspicuous monument stands on the bluff immediately above 
the town and about 800 yards northward of the church. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Perce. 


296 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


Communication. —The steamer of the Quebec Steamship com¬ 
pany, running fortnightly between Montreal and Pictou, calls at 
Perce. 

Tidal streams. —Regular streams of flood and ebb, with a rate of 
about 1 knot, generally run between Bonaventure island and the 
mainland; the flood stream setting southwestward round cape 
Espoir and up Chaleur bay, and the ebb in the contrary direction. 
From 2 to 3 miles to the eastward of Bonaventure island the current 
often runs southward out of the St. Lawrence. 

Mai bay, between Perce rock and point Verte, is 5^ miles wide, 4 
miles deep, and entirely open to the eastward. On its southwestern 
side, under Perce mountain, there are cliffs rising 666 feet perpen¬ 
dicularly from the sea, and on its northeastern side are low cliffs of 
sandstone, with occasional beaches. A fine broad sandy beach, in¬ 
closing a shallow lagoon, extends across the head of the bay. A con¬ 
siderable river and several small streams discharge their waters into 
the lagoon, which has an outlet in the northwestern corner of the bay, 
named Tickle inlet, admitting boats at high water and in fine weather. 
There is anchorage all around Mai bay, but as a heavy sea and thick 
fog often precede a southeasterly gale and render it difficult for a 
vessel to beat out, it can not be recommended. An open cove or small 
bay is formed on the northeastern side, in which a vessel can be 
occasionally moored close to the shore, and in 3 fathoms water, but it 
is of no use for the general purposes of navigation. 

Light. —A lantern on a white pole, 38 feet high, with a white 
wooden shed having a red roof at its base, situated on the north¬ 
eastern side of Tickle inlet entrance (Barachois de Mai baie), exhibits, 
at 70 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen, 
in clear weather, a distance of 4 miles. 

Storm signals are displayed at Barachois de Mai baie. 

American bank, on which a depth of 7J fathoms has been found, 
is reported by the local fishermen to have a least depth of 5 fathoms; 
this bank is situated with Cape Gaspe lighthouse, bearing 309°, dis¬ 
tant 11 miles. 

Point Peter, the southern entrance point of Gaspe bay, is of low 
sandstone, and thickly covered with the white houses of the fishermen. 

Pier.— In order to afford shelter for fishing boats during easterly 
wdnds, and provide berths for schooners, a pier 420 feet long, with a 
depth of 15 feet at its outer end, is constructed at the point. 

Plat island, generally known as Plateau, lying about 800 yards off 
the point, is small, low, and of sandstone. There is a clear channel 
between the island and the point, but no good anchorage; although 
vessels occasionally anchor northward of the island, yet the ground 
is so foul and rocky that there is great danger of losing the anchor. 


GASPE BAY. 


297 


Light. —A square white lighthouse, 50 feet high, on the summit of 
1* lat island, exhibits at 77 feet above high water a revolving red light 
that attains its greatest brilliancy every 30 seconds and should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

A dwelling is attached to the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —A hand fog horn answers signals from vessels. 

Gaspe bay. —Cape Gaspe bears 357° distant 7£ miles from Flat 
island, the entrance of Gaspe bay lying between. The bay extends 
northwestward about 17 miles; it contains an excellent outer road¬ 
stead off Douglastown, a harbor at its head capable of holding a nu¬ 
merous fleet in safety, and a basin where large ships could be refitted. 

Current—Caution. —The current down the St. Lawrence runs 
strongly past cape Gaspe over toward Flat island, especially during 
the ebb stream, when its rate often reaches 2 knots; it must be guarded 
against, especially by vessels making Gaspe bay with a northerly 
wind. This current, when meeting the swell which prevails from the 
southward and southeastward, causes a high, short, and breaking sea 
along the coast from above cape Rosier to cape Gaspe and extending 
across the entrance of Gaspe bay. With light winds a sailing vessel 
becomes unmanageable in this sea, and if caught in it, when near the 
land by a light onshore breeze, she will be in great danger. 

The soundings off this coast are of great use to vessels running up 
in foggy weather. 

Rocky patches.— Nearly in the prolongation of the line of cape 
Gaspe there are several rocky patches frequented by the fishermen. 

A small patch with 8 fathoms least water lies 135°, 1 mile from 
cape Gaspe, and a patch with 10 fathoms at 130°, 1.7 miles. There 
are deep water and irregular soundings between them. 

Winds. —In fine summer weather a sea breeze often blows right up 
Gaspe bay from about 9 a. m. until sunset, and generally a light 
land breeze blows at night down the arms, and may extend for several 
miles into the bay. In the outer part of the bay, in summer at night, 
it is generally calm, even when a fresh breeze is blowing outside cape 
Gaspe and point Peter, which breeze on such occasions is generally 
from the southwestward. 

Communication. —A steamer of the Gaspe Steamship line leaves 
Montreal and Quebec fortnightly and calls at Douglastown, Gaspe 
basin, and Grand Greve, and a steamer of the Quebec Steamship 
company leaves Montreal and Quebec fortnightly and calls at Gaspe. 
A steamer of the North American Transportation company sails 
from Dalhousie, after the arrival of the express trains from the east 
and west, twice a week for Gaspe and the intermediate ports in 
Chaleur bay. 


298 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


The southwestern shore of Gaspe bay from point Peter to Doug- 
lastown, a distance of 12 miles, presents a succession of precipitous 
headlands, the cliffs of bituminous shale and sandstone rising to the 
height of 200 feet above the sea. 

In the outer parts of the bay the water is 30 to upward of 60 
fathoms deep over mud bottom, but on approaching Douglastown the 
depth decreases regularly to the anchorage. Shoals extend from 
about 400 to 800 yards from the southwestern shore of the bay, and 
caution is necessary in approaching them as they are too steep for the 
lead to afford much warning. 

Bois Brule is a small fishing cove about 6J miles northwestward of 
point Peter. There is landing for the boats on a beach, which is pro¬ 
tected by a training pier. 

Douglastown, with a population of 1,098 in 1901, is a village of 
fishermen and farmers, standing on the rising ground at the south 
side of the entrance of river St. John. 

Cape Haldimand, 2 miles northward of Douglastown, is a bluff, 
cliffy^ point, and the eastern termination of the range of hills which 
separates the harbor, basin, and Southwest arm, from the valley of 
river St. John. 

St. John river in spring often has a depth of 9 feet in its entrance, 
which is between two points of sand extending from cape Haldimand 
on the north and Douglastown on the south; and the river has 12 
feet in the narrow channel for some distance within. At the islands, 
2 miles within the entrance, the river becomes shallow and rapid, and 
good water can be obtained. 

Anchorage. —The roadstead off Douglastown is extensive, with 
anchorage in any part, in depths of 11 to 6 fathoms, sand and clay; 
but the best berth is in 7 fathoms, with the entrance of river St. John 
bearing 273°, 1J miles. There is no shelter from southeasterly winds, 
which blow directly into the bay, and send in a heavy swell; never¬ 
theless, as the bottom is excellent holding ground, the anchorage may 
be used during summer. 

Cape Gaspe is a limestone headland, having on its eastern side a 
range of cliffs which rises from the sea to the height of 692 feet. The 
limestone of cape Gaspe dips to the southwestward, and the cliffs on 
its western side, or within the bay, are much lower than those on its 
eastern side. 

Flowerpot rock, awash at high water, and decreasing in size from 
the action of the sea, lies close off the southeastern extremity of the 
cape. It is sometimes named the “ Ship’s Head,” at others, the 
“ Old Woman,” by the fishermen. Vessels may round it into Gaspe 
bay, at the distance of J mile, and boats pass between it and the cape 
when there is no surf. 


GASPE BAY. 


299 


Light. —A square white tower, with a red iron lantern, which rises 
from the southern side of the dwelling, the whole being 46 feet high, 
on the edge of the cliffs forming the southern extreme of cape Gaspe, 
exhibits, at 355 feet above high water, a group revolving white light 
showing three flashes with intervals of 15 seconds between the times 
of their greatest brilliancy, the group followed by an interval of 30 
seconds, during the greater part of which the light is eclipsed; the 
total period of the system thus occupies 1 minute. The light should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 26 miles. 

Fog signal.—In thick weather or during snowstorms an explosive 
fog signal is fired at the lighthouse every 15 minutes; if a vessel’s 
fog signal is heard in dangerous proximity an additional fog signal 
is fired and repeated every 5 minutes. 

The northeastern shore of Gaspe bay is thickly covered with 
the houses of the fishermen for a distance of 5 miles within cape 
Gaspe. A church, dedicated to St. Augustin, is situated 2J miles 
within.the cape, and another, dedicated to St. Jean Baptiste, stands 
close to the shore of a cove 24 miles farther northward. 

There is anchorage with good holding ground, but in not less than 
IT fathoms, except within J mile of the shore, abreast of St. George 
cove, Grande Greve, and Little Gaspe. The word cove is, however, 
inappropriately applied to any part of the shore between Grande 
Greve and the cape, for though there are fishing establishments there 
are no coves whatever. This side of the bay is bold and clear of 
detached shoals, with the exception of Seal rock. 

Grande Greve. —At Grande Greve, 3J miles within cape Gaspe, 
the ridge of land dips and narrows, so that there is a portage across it, 
leading to the settlements at cape Rosier. On the northwestern side 
of the portage a range of mountains commences, and continues along 
the northeastern side of Gaspe bay and Northwest arm to the interior 
of the country. A part of the range opposite to Gaspe basin rises to 
the height of 1,505 feet above the sea. 

Seal rock lies 101°,1,600 yards from cape Brule,and \ mile offshore. 
The length of this reef, between depths of 3 fathoms, and parallel to 
the shore, is \ mile; and its breadth J mile. The least water on it is 
4 feet, and there is a depth of 3| fathoms between it and the shore. 
Cape James, the next cliffy point up the bay, open of cape Brule, to 
an angle of 3°, leads westward of the rock. 

Gaspe harbor. —From the northeastern side of cape Haldimand 
Sandy beach extends northward, and forms Gaspe harbor. This 
beach is a low and narrow tongue of sand, convex to seaward, on 
which side the water deepens gradually from high-water mark to the 
depth of 3 fathoms, a distance of nearly mile; on the inside it is 
steep-to, and forms a natural breakwater. Within this tongue of 


300 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-WEST SHORE. 


sand is Gaspe harbor, about 4| miles long, west-northwest and east- 
southeast, and completely sheltered, with a general width of 1 mile 
and depths of 4 to 11 fathoms, mud bottom. 

Northwest and Southwest arms are extensions of the harbor in the 
directions indicated by the names. 

Light.— A white lighthouse, with a red roof, 34 feet high, erected 
in a depth of 6 feet at the northern end of the spit extending from 
Sandy Beach point, exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, an intermit¬ 
tent white light thus: Light, 6 seconds; eclipse, 4 seconds, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

Fog signal.— A hand bell answers vessels’ signals. 

The Peninsula, on the northeastern shore, nearly 1 mile north¬ 
ward of Sandy Beach point, is a low sand bar, covered with spruce 
trees. 

The narrowest part of the entrance to the harbor, between the shoal 
water in the bay eastward of the peninsula and that which extends 
from Sandy Beach point, is 850 yards wide between depths of 3 
fathoms, and has a depth of 11 fathoms in the middle. 

Directions. —Approach with Sandy Beach Spit lighthouse bearing 
about 307° until about 2 miles from it, when keep about 324° until 
the lighthouse bears 290°; then steer to pass about 400 yards north¬ 
ward of the lighthouse, and into the harbor. 

The water deepens immediately outside the depth of 3 fathoms 
eastward of Sandy beach, and also off the point, so that it is difficult 
and dangerous to beat in or out of the harbor at night, the lead giving 
little warning. 

Ice. —The harbor is usually frozen over about December 10, but 
the entrance not until December 25; the ice clears about May 10, the 
harbor being completely closed between the last two dates. The last 
vessel leaves about December 6, and the first arrives from sea about 
May 11. 

Northwest arm is a continuation of the harbor to the northwest¬ 
ward, and has as much water as 5 fathoms for nearly 3 miles above 
the Peninsula; it is navigable for boats to where Dartmouth river 
enters the arm between Marsh and Meadow islands, about 6 miles 
above the Peninsula. 

Southwest arm. —The entrance of Southwest arm, about north¬ 
west 2 miles from Sandy Beach Spit lighthouse, is about 360 yards 
wide, between two sandy points; but the navigable channel is con¬ 
tracted by shoals on either side to about 120 yards, and has 27 feet of 
water in mid-channel. 

Gaspe basin— The deep water part of Southwest arm, which con¬ 
tinues for f mile within the entrance, is named Gaspe basin; it has a 


GASPE VILLAGE. 301 

depth of from 5 to 9 fathoms, mud bottom, and is sufficiently capa¬ 
cious to hold a number of vessels. 

Boats can ascend Southwest arm by a narrow channel, between 
shoals, for about 3 miles, when the navigation, for all but canoes or 
flat-bottom boats, is terminated by shallow channels. Above this the 
river becomes contracted and rapid, and the water fresh. 

Gaspe village. —A small rivulet in the bay, on the inside of the 
southern entrance point of Gaspe basin, is the most convenient water¬ 
ing place in the harbor. Around and near this rivulet is situated 
Gaspe village with a population, in 1901, of 454. The village has a 
telegraph office. Most of the inhabitants, as well as those of North¬ 
west arm and the harbor generally, are farmers; but the people of 
the bay outside carry on the cod fishery. The great majority of the 
fishermen are either from Jersey, or descended from the people of 
that island, whose language they retain. 

Light. —A white square lighthouse, with a red roof, 37 feet high, 
at O’Hara Point wharf, on the northern side of the basin, exhibits, at 
38 feet above high water, a fixed red light, which should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 7 miles. 

Buoys. —A black buoy is moored at the northern end of the spit 
extending from McConnell point, the southern entrance point of the 
basin. 

A red buoy is moored at the southern end of the shoal extending off 
Arnold bluff. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in Gaspe basin, at 2h. 
40m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet; extraordinary springs rise 7 
feet. The flood and ebb tidal streams in the entrances of the harbor 
and basin are regular but weak. In the bay the streams are variable, 
but usually almost imperceptible, and weak even near the shores. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Gaspe. Owing to O’Hara Point 
light being red, the red storm lantern is not used at Gaspe. 


CHAPTER VII. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC—ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER 
AND ESTUARY, SOUTH SHORE—CAPE GAS PE TO GREEN 
ISLAND. 


Variation in 1908. 

Cape Rosier_25° 30' W. I Cape Chat_24° 30' W. 

Father point___22° 25' W. | Green island_21° 20' W. 

The south shore of the estuary of the St. Lawrence, between 
cape Gaspe and cape Chat, a distance of 117 miles, is free from 
danger—with the exception of Serpent reef—and destitute of harbors. 
The mountains everywhere approach the coast, which is steep and 
rocky, displaying cliffs, often very high, and without beach. After 
heavy rains, waterfalls, which are not seen at other times, descend 
from great heights; small bays, with sandy beaches and rapid 
streams at their head, occur occasionally; yet these features are not 
generally so marked as to enable a stranger to distinguish one part of 
this shore from another with facility. Most of the bays are, how¬ 
ever, marked by the houses of the fishermen or settlers, by bearings of 
which a ship’s position may generally be obtained. 

Caution. —The shore between cape Gaspe and cape Chat, although 
so free from offlying shoals, nevertheless must be guarded against in 
dark foggy nights, since the water everywhere along it is too deep to 
afford sufficient warning by the lead for the safety of vessels. The 
land along its whole extent, excepting in some of the bays, is of highly 
inclined slate and graywacke rocks, which would quickly cut through 
a vessel’s bottom on her going ashore; and the nature of the country 
is such that those who might succeed in landing would run a great 
risk of perishing from want before they could reach a settlement. 

Communication. —Steamers of the Gaspe Steamship line running 
between Gaspe and Montreal and Quebec fortnightly, call both going 
and coming at cape Rosier, l’anse a Louise, Griffin cove, Great Fox 
river, Little Fox river, Jaune point, anse au Vallon, Grand Etang, 
Point Seche, Clorydorme point, Frigate point, Petite and Grande 
Vallee, cape Magdalen, Little Magdalen, St. Antoine, Mount Louis, 
Claude river, Martin river, Ste. Anne des Monts, cape Chat, les Me- 
cliins, Ste. Felicite, and Matane. 


302 







CAPE ROSIER-GREAT EOX RIVER. 


303 


Cape Rosier, 349°, 6J miles from cape Gaspe, is low, and composed 
of graywacke and slate rocks. Shoal water borders the cape 
for about J mile, and a reef extends J mile from the shore, off a con¬ 
spicuous church in the bay, 1J miles southward of the cape. There is 
shelter under cape Rosier from northwesterly winds, but the ground 
is not very good, and the easterly swell that frequently rolls in renders 
it a dangerous anchorage. There are fishing establishments on the 
cape and in its vicinity. 

Light.— A circular white lighthouse, 112 feet high, on cape Rosier, 
exhibits, at 136 feet above high \yater, an intermittent white light, 
showing thus: Light, 15 seconds; eclipse, 5 seconds, which should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of IT miles. 

Fog signal.— In thick weather or during snowstorms a diaphone 
trumpet operated by compressed air gives 1 blast of 7 seconds dura¬ 
tion every minute, thus: Blast, 7 seconds; silent interval, 53 seconds. 
If the trumpet is out of order a horn will give similar blasts. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station, 
which is included in Lloyd’s system, at this lighthouse. 

Griffin cove and river are 6| miles north-northwestward of cape 
Rosier. The cove is a small bay with a depth of 2 to 3 fathoms, sandy 
bottom, which affords shelter to the boats of the fishermen whose 
houses are around the cove. 

Range lights. —Two white masts, with diamond shaped marks 
attached, on the shore of Griffin cove and higher ground inland, ex¬ 
hibit fixed red lights, visible 5 miles, which in line 244° lead about 
400 yards from the northwestern point of the cove. 

Supplies of water, wood, and occasionally fresh provisions may be 
obtained. 

Great Fox river. —The shore from Griffin cove trends northwest¬ 
ward for nearly 5 miles to a small bay about f mile wide and \ mile 
deep, with a fine sandy beach at its head, into which Great Fox river, 
a mere brook, flows. Off each point of the bay there are reefs, which 
reduce the breadth of the entrance to less than J mile, and afford 
shelter to boats, and small craft in a depth of 2 to 2^ fathoms, fine 
dark sand. At J mile outside the reefs, which extend only a short 
distance seaward, there is a depth of 15 fathoms, sand and broken 
shell. 

Piers. —A small landing pier was constructed in 1896. A pier 
intended to form a small harbor of refuge was commenced in 1901. 

Buoy. —A black can buoy, No. 9, is moored in 7 fathoms water in 
the middle of the bay, off Great Fox river, to indicate the anchorage 
ground. Vessels should not go inside this buoy, as fishermen lay their 
nets out to that limit. 


304 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

Range lights.— Two white masts, with diamond shaped marks 
attached, on the shore of Great Fox river entrance and higher ground 
inland, exhibit fixed red lights, visible 5 miles, which in line 222° 
lead to No. 9 buoy. 

Storm signals are exhibited here. 

Settlement.— Great Fox river is one of the most ancient settle¬ 
ments in the county of Gaspe, and is the first important fishing station 
and business place met with on the southern shore of the St. Law¬ 
rence above Gaspe basin. There is a large stone church at the settle¬ 
ment. The population is estimated at 1,700, and the principal indus¬ 
tries are farming and fishing. 

Supplies. —In fine summer weather a vessel might anchor off Great 
Fox river and obtain water, wood, and fresh provisions; but other¬ 
wise the bay is of no use to shipping. 

Serpent reef. —Serpent point is northwestward 4| miles from 
Great Fox river, and Serpent reef, the only danger on this coast, ex¬ 
tends eastward 1 mile from the point, the outer end of the reef with 
3 fathoms water being § mile offshore. 

Buoy. —A black can buoy, No. 13, is moored in 6 fathoms water off 
the outer part of this reef, and about 1 mile from the shore. Vessels 
must not pass between the buoy and the land. 

Note.— This buoy is occasionally washed away. 

Fame point.—The shore of the estuary from Serpent point trends 
about 304°, 6-J miles to Fame point. 

Light. —A cylindrical lighthouse, 49 feet high and painted red, on 
Fame point, exhibits, at 190 feet above high water, a flashing white 
light, showing 1 group of 2 white flashes every 10 seconds, thus: 
flash, 0.43 second; eclipse, 1.82 seconds; flash, 0.43 second; eclipse, 
7.32 seconds. The light should be visible, in clear weather, a distance 
of 20 miles. 

Note.— The lighthouse is painted red in order to ascertain if this 
color renders it conspicuous against the summer vegetation or the 
spring and autumn snow. 

Fog signals —A diaphone trumpet operated by compressed air, 
placed in a small rectangular building, painted Indian red with white 
trimmings, located 50 feet southeastward of the lighthouse and 172 
feet above high water, gives, during thick or foggy weather, a blast 
of 4 seconds’ duration every minute. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
included in Lloyd’s system at this lighthouse. 

Wireless telegraph. —At Fame point there is a wireless telegraph 
station, the call letter of which is FP, maintained by the Canadian 
government. 


MAGDALEN RIVER. 


305 


The Great Pond (Grand Etang), nearly 5 miles west-northwest¬ 
ward of Fame point, is a small creek, which affords shelter only to 
boats and may be known by the houses and stages of the fishermen. 

Telegraph and signal station. —Chlorvdorme point, where there 
is a telegraph and signal station, is 5 miles northwestward from the 
Great Pond. 

Range lights. —Two white masts, with diamond shaped marks 
attached, at Clorydorme, just to the eastward of the point, exhibit 
fixed red lights, visible 5 miles, which in line 199° lead about 400 
yards southeastward of the northwestern point of the bay. 

Frigate point is nearly midway between Fame point and cape 
Magdalen, and may be recognized by numerous white cottages and 
a conspicuous waterfall westward of the point. 

Grande Vallee, where a small stream flows into the estuary, is 
situated 8 miles westward of Frigate point; there is a wharf on the 
eastern side of the entrance, and in order to afford landing and 
shipping facilities and shelter to steamers, small vessels, and fishing 
craft, a breakwater wharf, 900 feet long, is to be built. 

Range lights. —Two white masts, with diamond shaped marks 
attached, at Grande Vallee, exhibit fixed red lights, visible 5 miles, 
which in line 188° lead to the northwestern side of the bay. 

Magdalen river. —The mouth of this river is on the northwestern 
side of a sandy bay, and close under cape Magdalen, which, jutting 
out a very short distance from the range of hills forming the shore, 
is situated 281°, 15 miles from Frigate point, and is rocky, with cliffs 
of moderate height. A reef of rocks, partly dry at low water, extends 
from cape Magdalen, about 400 yards eastward, parallel to the shore 
arid shelters the entrance of the river from northerly winds. The river 
is 30 yards wide at the entrance, with a depth of 7 feet at low water, 
and for a short distance within has a depth of 10 feet, fine sand. 
Farther up the river becomes shallow and rapid, winding its way 
through a valley between the mountains. There is a sawmill near 
the mouth of the river. At spring tides 13 feet water can be carried 
into this river, which is occasionally visited by vessels of 30 to 80 
tons; they' warp in when the sea is smooth and the weather fine. The 
bay is not deep, being merely a gentle curve with a sandy beach 
extending about 1 mile southeastward of the river. 

A shoal with 3 fathoms water on it lies 107° about 1,600 yards 
from cape Magdalen and 575 yards offshore. 

Anchorage. —There is temporary open anchorage during fine 
weather in 7 fathoms, in sand, fine gravel, and broken shells, with the 
lighthouse bearing about 256°, distant 1,500 yards, and with the 
sandy beach the same distance; wood and water can be obtained. 

50918—08-20 


306 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER—SOUTH SHORE. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, off Magdalen river, at 

I h. 15m.; springs rise 6 to 8 feet and neaps 3 to 4 feet. 

A regular alternation of the tidal streams has been observed. The 
flood, with a rate of 1 .knot, extended to about 14 miles from the 
shore, and at the line of its junction with the almost constant down¬ 
ward current was a strong ripple. 

Liiglit. —A hexagonal lighthouse, 54 feet high, painted white with 
one vertical black stripe, on cape Magdalen, exhibits, at 147 feet above 
high water, an alternating light showing red and white, alternately 
at intervals of 2 minutes. The red light should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 15 miles and the white light 18 miles. 

The keeper’s dwelling is behind the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —During thick weather or in snowstorms a diaphone 
trumpet, operated by compressed air, placed in a white building with 
a red roof, on the cliff in front and westward of the lighthouse and 
128 feet above high water, gives blasts of 3 seconds duration, with 
intervals of 27 seconds between the blasts. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
included in Lloyd’s system at this lighthouse. 

Pleureuse point. —From cape Magdalen the shore trends west¬ 
ward 12 miles to Pleureuse point, and thence continues westward for 

II miles to Claude river. 

Hivers. —From off this shore four well-marked openings in the 
high land may be seen; the eastern one is Grande Matte or Pleu¬ 
reuse river; the next one, 3J miles westward, is Mount Louis river; 
then comes Claude river, 3 miles farther westward, and lastly Pierre 
river, 3J miles westward of Claude river. 

Mount Louis river, 4 miles westward of Pleureuse point, is 20 
yards wide at the entrance, and capable of admitting only small boats 
at low water. At high water there are 7 feet in the entrance and for 
a short distance within. Numerous houses and a church with a 
spire have been built on the beach, of shingle, that forms the south¬ 
eastern entrance point to this river. 

Mount Louis bay.—The small bay, with a sandy beach at its head, 
into which Mount Louis river falls, is 1 mile wide and nearly f mile 
deep. There is anchorage in it nearer the western than the eastern side 
during fine weather, in 8 to 16 fathoms, mud. The holding ground 
is excellent; but there is not much room to work out, and it would 
be dangerous for a sailing vessel of any size to be caught there by 
an onshore wind; but a landing pier is being built (1905) from the 
western shore toward the eastern point of the bay, which will, when 
completed, afford shelter from northerly winds. Small vessels, or 
ships requiring wood or water, may anchor for a few hours under 


MARTIN RIVER-ST. ANNE RIVER. 307 

favorable conditions, sheltered from winds, between west and east, 
and through south. 

Range lights— Buoy.—Two white masts, with diamond-shaped 
marks attached, on the shore of Mount Louis bay and higher ground 
inland, exhibit fixed red lights, visible 5 miles, which in line 177° 
lead to a buoy in the bay. 

Martin river. —The shore from Pierre river trends a little south¬ 
ward of west, 10J miles to the entrance of Martin river. 

Light. —An octagonal lighthouse, 63 feet high, painted bright red, 
at the entrance of Martin river, exhibits, at 130 feet above high water, 
a group-flashing white light, showing groups of 4 flashes every 30 
seconds; each flash being of 0.5 second duration, with eclipses be¬ 
tween flashes of 4.5 seconds; and the group followed by an eclipse 
of 14.5 seconds, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance 
of 17 miles. 

The keeper’s dwelling is attached to the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —During thick or foggy weather a diaphone trumpet 
operated by compressed air, gives 1 blast of 5 seconds duration 
every minute. The trumpet is elevated 70 feet above high-water 
mark and projects in a 350° direction from the northern end of the 
fog-signal building, which is a rectangular, wooden building, painted 
red, wfith a high chimney, and standing 194 feet, 85°, from the light¬ 
house. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
at the lighthouse. 

Cape St. Anne. —From Martin river the shore trends westward 
10 J miles to the high cape St. Anne. 

St. Anne mountains. —Westward of cape St. Anne the mountains 
begin to recede a little from the shore, and to diminish in height. 
There is, however, another range of mountains called St. Anne or 
Shickshoc mountains, about 8 to 15 miles inland, and their highest 
peak, which is about 14 miles southward of cape Chat, rises 3,973 
feet above the sea. These are the highest mountains in the eastern 
part of British North America. 

St. Anne river, which is 4J miles west-southwestward of cape St. 
Anne and 10J miles eastward of cape Chat, can be entered by small 
vessels at high water through a difficult entrance. A large rock above 
water divides it into two very narrow channels, through which a rapid 
current almost always runs. The river flows into the sea through the 
sandy beach of a bay, which affords very indifferent anchorage, the 
depth of water being too great, except at a distance from the shore 
too little for any but small vessels. 

St. Anne des Monts village, which has a church, is on the shore of 
the bay, and can generally furnish supplies of provisions. 


308 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

Range lights. —Two white masts, with diamond-shaped marks 
attached, at St. Anne des Monts village exhibit fixed red lights, 
visible 5 miles, which in line, and also in line with the church, bear 
155°. 

Buoy. —A black can buoy, No. IT, is moored at St. Anne river. 

St. Anne point is 2 miles westward of St. Anne river, and the 
shore thence trends west-southwestward 8J miles to cape Chat, there 
being one prominent point between. 

Chat river, 2f miles eastward of cape Chat, flows between large 
bowlders into a small sandy bay, which affords no anchorage; but 
the river admits small craft with difficulty at high water. A training 
pier was constructed in 1899. The point, 2 miles eastward of the 
river, is a low spit with a reef extending \ mile from it. Small vessels 
occasionally anchor under the point in westerly winds. 

Buoy. —A black can buoy, No. 19, marks les Cailles at Chat river 
entrance. 

Cape Chat (Chatte) on easterly or westerly bearings appears as 
a round hill separated from, but of less height than, the land be¬ 
hind it. 

Light. —A square lighthouse, 32 feet high, and painted white with 
two black vertical stripes, on the northeastern part of cape Chat, 
exhibits, at 120 feet above high water, a revolving white light, which 
attains its greatest brilliancy every \ minute, and should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of IT miles. 

Fog signal. —During fog and snowstorms an explosive fog signal 
is fired every 15 minutes. If a vessel’s fog signal is heard in danger¬ 
ous proximity an additional fog signal is fired and repeated every 5 
minutes. The fog-signal derrick is on the edge of the cliff at 106 
feet eastward of the lighthouse. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
at this lighthouse. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at cape Chat at Oh. 0m.; 
springs rise 13 feet, neaps 8 feet. 

The southern shore of the estuary of the river St. Lawrence from 
cape Chat trends west-southwestward 34 miles to Matane; it is 
straight, bold, and composed of inclined slate and graywacke rocks. 
Although not very high, it is still of considerable elevation, and St. 
Anne mountains continue nearly parallel to it, at the distance of 
about 15 miles inland, to their southwestern termination, which is 
situated about 18 miles southeastward of Matane. There are several 
detached hills farther westward, which are also at a considerable dis¬ 
tance from the estuary. Two of these, called the Paps of Matane, 


CAPUCHIN COVE-MATANE RIVER. 


309 


can with difficulty be made out on southwesterly bearing, and with 
much greater difficulty on other bearings. 

Capuchin cove, and also a cove on the western side of cape Mi- 
chaux, afford shelter to boats. Cape Balance is 24 miles westward of 
cape Chat; at St. Felicite, 1^ miles farther westward, is a church 
close to the shore. At Little Matane river, a small stream 3 miles 
eastward of Matane river, there are settlements. 

Hoix shoal, which lies with St. Felicite church bearing 184°, 
distant 1 mile, and nearly 1 mile offshore, is a rock about 500 feet 
long, east and west, and 400 feet broad, with a depth of 4 fathoms 
over it and 9 fathoms around. The sea seldom breaks on the rock, 
but there is often a heavy curl on it. 

St. Felicite fog signal. —A diaphone trumpet or siren, operated 
by compressed air, placed in a rectangular white building 15 feet 
above high water, situated on the extremity of the low point project¬ 
ing from the general trend of the coast at 265°, 2 miles from St. 
Felicite church, gives in thick or foggy weather 1 blast every minute, 
thus: Blast, 34 seconds; interval, 564 seconds. 

Matane river, the entrance to which is 245° from cape Chat, is re¬ 
ported to have its source in a lake of considerable dimensions, distant 
about 60 miles, following the stream, inland. The depth over the bar 
is usualty 4 feet at low water, but the height of the water seems to de¬ 
pend so much upon the prevailing winds that it is impossible to calcu¬ 
late it at any time exactly. The bar continually shifts from the effects 
of gales, and therefore no directions can be given. 

The bar, when surveyed, extended in a circular form from the east¬ 
ern entrance point, and was nearly met by a bank of sand, extending 
from the small isolated cliff on the western entrance point, so that 
only a very narrow channel w T as left. In the channel there are several 
large bowlders lying on the sand, which diminish the depth 2 feet, and 
are extremely dangerous when there is any swell. The bar dried at 
low water, and no part of it extended more than 600 yards outside the 
entrance of the river. Inside the bar the entrance, between two sandy 
points, is not more than 60 yards wide, and it has a rapid current dur¬ 
ing the ebb tide. There is not room enough for a vessel to lie safely 
afloat inside, but coasting craft ground at half tide on a good bottom of 
mud and stones. The sandy beach extends about 4 mile eastward of 
the entrance, and incloses a large space dry at low water, with the 
exception of the narrow and rapid channel of the river, which is full 
of stones. The tide ascends about 1 mile to a rapid over a ledge of 
rocks, above which the stream is swift, shallow, and navigable only 
for canoes to the lake in which the river has its source. Landing in 
a boat at this river in bad weather is very dangerous at low water in 
consequence of the heavy surf on the sand banks at its entrance. 


310 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

Lights. —A cylindrical lighthouse, 67 feet high, painted bright red, 
at the entrance of Matane river, exhibits, at 85 feet above high water, 
a group-flashing white light, showing 1 group of 2 flashes every 7J 
seconds, thus: Flash \ second, eclipse 1 second, flash \ second, eclipse 
5J seconds, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 
miles. 

A mast, 20 feet high, with a white shed at its base, on the end of 
the pier at the western entrance point of Matane river exhibits, at 
30 feet above high water, a fixed white light which should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 7 miles. 

Marine signal station.—There is a telegraph and signal station 
at the lighthouse. 

Buoys. —A black bell-buoy, No. 21, is moored in 10 fathoms on the 
outer edge of the shoal off the mouth of Matane river, with Matane 
lighthouse bearing 201°, distant 1 mile. 

Three small buoys mark the entrance to the river. 

Pier. —There is a pier at Matane. 

Pilots reside in the village, and the entrance should not be at¬ 
tempted without one. 

Supplies of provisions can usually be obtained at Matane. 

Anchorage.—There is anchorage outside the bar in 5 fathoms at 
about \ mile offshore, and in 10 fathoms a little farther out, the bot¬ 
tom being sand and clay. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Matane river, at 2h. 
15m.; springs rise 11 feet, neaps 7 feet. 

The rise of the tide is very irregular; easterly winds raise the water 
and westerly winds lower it. 

St. Jerome de Matane, containing a large stone church, is the 
name of the seignory which in 1901 contained 1,176 inhabitants, most 
of whom live by the combined means of fishing and farming. The 
soil is good, and gives good crops of wheat and other grain, excepting 
in bad seasons. The village contains several saw and grist mills and 
a spool wool factory. 

The shore from Matane trends about 236°, 23 miles to Little Metis 
bay; it is low, rocky, wooded, unbroken, and may be approached 
with care by the lead, the bank of soundings becoming gradually 
wider to the westward. 

The village of Biviere Blanche, or St. Ulrich de Matane, situ¬ 
ated about 9 miles westward of Matane, contains a church, large 
stores, a creamery, and sawmills. It has a wharf from which a con¬ 
siderable quantity of lumber is shipped. 

Little Metis bay is small and divided into two rocky coves, which 
are open to the eastward, and dry at low water. There are several 


LITTLE METIS BAY-METIS BAY. 


311 


buildings and a fishing establishment on Metis point, the outer ex¬ 
treme of the bay. 

Little Metis river, a small stream, flows into the head of the 
southern cove. 

A reef, which is bold on its northern side, with some of its rocks 
always above water, extends nearly f mile eastward from Metis 
point, and enables small vessels to anchor midway between the east¬ 
ern end of the reef and the large Hound rock, which lies eastward 
about 1J miles from the reef off the outer point of the bay. At this 
anchorage small vessels are partly protected from winds as far 
northward as 292°, in a depth of 3 fathoms, mud bottom; larger 
vessels anchor farther out in 5 to 6 fathoms water, but not in the 
stream of the reef, where the ground is foul and rocky. 

Round rock, bearing 113°, leads just clear of the eastern end of the 
reef, but in a vessel of moderate draft do not bring the rock east¬ 
ward of 135°. This rock will serve to point out Little Metis to a 
stranger. The eastern end of the reef should not be closed to less 
than 4 fathoms. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Little Metis bay at 
2h. 10m.; springs rise 13 feet, neaps 8 feet. 

Light.—A square lighthouse, 40 feet high, and painted bright red, 
on Metis point, exhibits, at 56 feet above high water, an alternating 
light showing red and white alternately every minute, which should 
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 13 miles. The keeper’s dwell¬ 
ing is attached to the lighthouse. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
at this lighthouse. 

Metis bay is separated from Little Metis bay by Metis point. The 
bay is rather more than 3 miles wide and | mile deep; but it is all 
shoal. 

Anchorage. —Small vessels anchor in 3^ or 4 fathoms, under Metis 
point, close to the edge of the shoal water. Although there is no 
shelter, vessels take in timber here all through the summer, and 
usually moor in 6 fathoms at low water, mud bottom, with the river 
entrance bearing about 180°, distant 1^ miles. In this position ves¬ 
sels are J mile seaward of the 3 fathoms edge of the shoal water, and 
being outside the line joining the points of the bay they are exposed 
to the prevailing alongshore winds, and must ride very heavily at 
times. There is, however, seldom much sea so close inshore with 
these winds, and northerly winds are seldom strong until the com¬ 
mencement of September, after which this anchorage is dangerous; 
at other times, with fine w T eather, vessels anchor anywhere off the 
bay in 6 to 12 fathoms, with a good bottom, and plenty of room to 
get under way. 


312 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER—SOUTH SHORE. 

Metis river, a small stream, flows into the western part of the bay 
about 5 miles southwestward of Metis point; it is nearly dry outside 
its narrow entrance at low water. 

Cock cove. —The shore from the western point of Metis bay trends 
about 236°, 9 miles to Cock cove, which affords good anchorage for 
small vessels, in 3 fathoms at low water, well sheltered from along¬ 
shore winds. On Cock point, the western point of the cove, stands 
St. Luce church, which has a steeple. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 25, is moored in 5 fathoms water at 
the edge of the shoal off Cock point. 

Mount Camille, which is an isolated peak 2,036 feet high, bears 
130°, distant 7f miles from Cock point. 

Anchorage. —There is anchorage for vessels of any draft in fine 
weather, all along the shore from Metis bay to Green island. 

Father point, 239°, 4J miles from Cock point, is low, and covered 
with houses. 

There is a considerable village named Ste. Anne de la pointe au 
Pere, with a fine church, situated about \ mile southeastward of 
Father point. A wharf 800 feet long, with a depth of 18 feet at low 
water at its outer end, has been built. 

Light. —A square lighthouse, 52 feet high, and painted white, 
with one black horizontal band, on Father point, exhibits, at 48 feet 
above high water, a revolving white light, attaining its greatest bril¬ 
liancy every 20 seconds, which should be seen, in clear weather, 
between 233° and 64°, through south, a distance of 12 miles. 

Fog signal.—In thick weather or during snowstorms a diaphone 
siren, worked by compressed air, gives 2 blasts, each of 4 seconds’ 
duration, every minute, thus: Blast, 4 seconds; interval, 3 seconds; 
blast, 4 seconds; interval, 49 seconds. The fog-signal house is a 
white, rectangular building on the beach at 58°, 432 feet from the 
lighthouse, and the siren is 17 feet above high water. 

In the event of the siren being out of order, an explosive fog signal 
is fired every 15 minutes, and in answer to steamers’ signals. 

Marine signal station. —There is a telegraph and signal station 
at the lighthouse. 

Wireless telegraph.—A wireless telegraph station whose call 
letter is “ R. T.” is maintained at Father point by the government 
of the Dominion of Canada. 

Storm signals are exhibited at Father point. 

Pilots.—The Canadian department of marine and fisheries con¬ 
trols the pilotage of the lower St. Lawrence between a line drawn 
from Father point to the eastern anchorage ground at cape Colombier, 
on the northern shore, as the eastern limit, and Quebec as the west- 


FATHER POINT-RIMOUSKI ROAD. 


313 


ern limit. Pilots are embarked by inward-bound vessels and disem¬ 
barked by outward-bound vessels at Father point by a steam pilot 
boat. Special pilots stationed at Father point are emploj^ed for the 
Saguenay river. 

Light-buoy.—A black cylindrical light-buoy, No. 27B, moored in 
7 fathoms, with Father Point lighthouse bearing 178°, distant 800 
yards, exhibits an intermittent white light, and indicates the limit 
to which vessels can approach Father point to embark or disembark 
pilots. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Father point at 2h. 
29m.; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 8J feet. 

Tide tables for Father point, with tidal differences and times at 
which the tidal streams turn in the lower St. Lawrence, are published 
b}^ the marine and fisheries department of the Dominion of Canada. 

Ice. —The river never freezes over at Father point. Drifting field 
ice usually arrives about December 9 and disappears about April 
2 ; there is rarely any heavy ice until the end of December, and there 
is always a channel of water open, either on the northern or the 
southern side of the river, according to the prevailing wind, even a 
light air being sufficient to drive the ice to mid-channel. The river 
in winter is often clear of ice for a month at a time, and it is 
partly clear for about half that season. There is less ice than usual 
at Father point whenever the ice bridge forms at Quebec. The first 
vessel arrives at Father point from sea about April 24, and the last 
one leaves about November 28. 

Communication. —A vessel of the Quebec Steamship Company 
plies between Montreal and Pictou, sailing every fortnight during the 
season, and calls at Father point. There is also a station of the Inter¬ 
colonial railway. 

Rimouski road. —The eastern point of Barnaby island bears 
240° nearly 34 miles from Father point, and between them is Rimou- 
ski road, where vessels moor to take in lumber throughout the summer 
in 4 to 5 fathoms at low water, with excellent holding ground, and 
sheltered from a little southward of west, through south to east. 
The most sheltered berth is with the eastern point of Barnaby island 
bearing 259° and the pier 158°, in 4 fathoms, mud bottom. Small 
vessels anchor farther westward in 3 fathoms at low water, with the 
eastern end of the rocks off the eastern point of Barnaby island bear¬ 
ing 281°, distant J mile. The anchorage farther off Rimouski is 
not good. A reef extends J mile off the eastern point of Barnaby 
island and may be passed by the lead in 4 fathoms. 

Pier.— The landing pier at Rimouski is 2,150 feet long, with a 
depth of 8| feet at its end at low water springs. The Intercolonial 


314 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

railway runs along the pier to its outer end, where there is a shed, 
110 feet long and 26 feet broad, with a small tower on top of it. 

Light.—A white square lantern on the roof of the freight shed 
exhibits at 30 feet above high water a fixed white light, which should 
be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

Light-buoy.—A black cylindrical light-buoy, No- 29B, moored 
in 7 fathoms, with Father Point lighthouse bearing 73°, distant 2 
miles, exhibits an intermittent white light, thus: Light, 7 seconds; 
eclipse, 6 seconds. 

The buoy marks the position in the vicinity of which the mail 
steamers meet the tenders carrying the mails to or from the pier. 

Rimouski, on the southern shore of the St. Lawrence, about 3 to 
5 miles above and southwestward of Father point, is a village with a 
population of 1,804 in 1901, and is an important station of the Inter¬ 
colonial railway. It contains a church, a college, and a convent. A 
large quantity of lumber is shipped to Europe from Rimouski. 

The European mails are landed and shipped at Rimouski, special 
trains running with them to and from Quebec and Halifax. Both 
mails and passengers are transhipped by a steam tender. 

Quarantine. —All inward-bound merchant vessels must communi¬ 
cate with the quarantine authorities at Rimouski, or, failing this, at 
Grosse isle, whence they may proceed, if granted pratique. Quaran¬ 
tine is performed at Grosse isle. 

Supplies. —Only sufficient coal for the supply of the tender to the 
mail steamers is kept at Rimouski, but coal can be obtained by rail. 
Water can be obtained from Rimouski river. 

Railway.— From Rimouski to Quebec the Intercolonial railway 
runs along the right bank of the St. Lawrence at the average distance 
of 1 mile inland from the villages. From Rimouski, eastward, the 
railway keeps about 1 to 2 miles from the right or southern bank of 
the river to Metis; it then turns inland and runs through the valley 
of Matapedia river to Campbellton, at the head of Chaleur bay. 

Telegraph. —Along the line of railway there is communication 
with the telegraph lines, either from the stations or from the offices 
in the villages. 

Barnaby island, composed of slate and graywacke rocks, is 3 
miles long, parallel to the coast, very narrow, low, partly w^ooded, 
and inhabited. In the interior of the island there is a long pond of 
fresh, but not good, water. 

The channel between the island and Rimouski dries at low water, 
but there is a depth of 7 feet through it at high w^ater neaps, and 12 
feet at high water springs; no vessel drawing more than 8 feet should, 
however, attempt this passage, since there are rocks and bowlders 
here and there, and also fish stakes. 


BARNABY ROAD-HA HA BAY. 


815 


A shoal, with 3 fathoms water over it, extends northward and 
westward of Barnaby island, from the western part of which the 
shoal is distant 1,600 yards; and a reef extends more than J mile 
southwestward of the southwestern end of the island. Between the 
southwestern end of the island and the mainland there is a large, 
high, and bare rock, which is distant from the island about § mile. 

Barnaby road. —Midway between the southwestern points of 
Barnaby island and the bare rock there is a depth of 2 fathoms at 
low water, muddy bottom, in Barnaby road, with good anchorage, 
for small vessels in all but westerly winds. Rimouski church in line 
with the northeastern end of the rock leads over the tail of the reef 
off the southwestern end of Barnaby island and into this anchorage. 

Old Bic harbor, 7J miles southwestward of Barnaby island, dries 
at low water, and has many rocks in it. The Bicoques, two round 
and high rocky islets, lie westward of its eastern point, and diminish 
the breadth of the entrance to f mile. 

Old Bic road. —Small vessels anchor midway between these rocky 
islets and the western point of the harbor, with that point bearing 
248°, distant 600 yards, in 3 fathoms at low water, muddy bottom. 

Water can be obtained from the river flowing into the southeastern 
corner of Old Bic harbor. 

Orignal (Arignole) reef, 1 mile westward of Old Bic harbor, is 
formed of two rocks lying across the mouth of the shallow Orignal 
bay. The "western rock is J mile long and very narrow; its western 
end is always above water, and is distant only J mile from the rocks 
on the eastern side of cape Orignal. The eastern rock is small, 
covered at high tides, and distant 600 yards from the other rock. 
There are 5 or 6 fathoms water between these rocks, which are bold to 
the northward, and a vessel might pass between them and the main¬ 
land by keeping close to them; but she should do this only in case of 
necessity. 

Clearing mark. —The western of the two Bicoques islets its own 
breadth open eastward of the western point of the harbor leads 
northeastward of the eastern rock of Orignal reef. 

Cape Orignal (Arignole), at the end of a peninsula between 
Orignal and Ha Ha bays, is 236°, distant 10| miles, from Barnaby 
island. 

Ha Ha bay, on the southern side of the western projection of cape 
Orignal, affords excellent anchorage in easterly winds, off its en¬ 
trance in 4 fathoms at low water, and farther in for small vessels in 
3 fathoms; but it is seldom used, because the equally safe and more 
roomy anchorage under Bic island is much better. 

Bic island lies northwestward nearly 2£ miles from cape Orignal, 
and is about 3 miles long, southwest and northeast, and 1 mile broad. 


316 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

Its shores are of slate rocks; it is about 150 feet high, thickly wooded, 
and uninhabited. 

Beacons. —On the southwestern end of Bic island are three white 
beacons; the northwestern of which is in the form of a sugar loaf; 
the western is in the form of a cross reversed; and the northeastern 
beacon is diamond shaped. 

Southeast reef extends about 79° nearly If miles from the south¬ 
eastern point of Bic island; its outer part is formed of three 
rocks lying in a straight line, and always above water. The two 
eastern rocks are the largest, and are nearly joined together, while 
the western rock is detached, so as to leave a channel through the reef 
300 yards wide, with a depth of 5 feet water. 

No attempt should be made to pass between these rocks, or between 
them and Bic island, for the bottom is uneven, the tidal streams are 
irregular, and there is much foul ground; but with local knowledge 
small vessels pass on either side of the western rock, keeping close to 
it, if passing to the westward. Shoal water extends about 200 yards 
eastward of Southeast reef; the rocks above water are bold, both on 
their north and south sides. The inner part of the reef, extending 
from the southeastern point of Bic island, is covered and reaches 
farther southward than the direction of the rocks; to clear it keep 
the southern side of Bic island westward of 240°. 

Northeast reef, a small patch of black rocks which shows at low 
water, lies 34°, 800 yards from the northeastern point of Bic island. 
Both Bicoques islets open eastward of Southeast reef, 136°, leads east¬ 
ward of the reef. 

West grounds are extensive flats of slate, partly dry at low water, 
which extend off the northwestern and southwestern coasts of Bic 
island; the outer point of these reefs, in 3 fathoms, lies 242°, nearly 
f mile from the southwestern point of the island, and may be ap¬ 
proached by the lead to not less than the depth of 5 fathoms, at low 
water. Southeast reef, open southward of Bic island, leads south¬ 
ward of West ground. 

Two small round rocks, always above water except in very high 
tides, lie 400 yards north-northwestward of Bic island and bear 
nearly 158° from the western end of Bicquette island. 

Water can be obtained from the bay between the eastern and south¬ 
eastern points of Bic island, but not always in dry seasons; it can be 
obtained also from a stream on the western side of a small bay of the 
mainland, 4 miles westward of cape Orignal. 

Bicquette island, lying If miles northward of the southwestern 
end of Bic island, is J mile long, f mile broad, and of moderate height, 
about 100 feet. 


BTCQUETTE ISLAND. 


317 

Light.— A circular white stone tower, 74 feet high, situated near 
the middle of Bicquette island, exhibits, at 109 feet above high water, 
a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 45 
seconds, and should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 17 miles. 

Fog signal. —A steam horn, placed in a white building with a r§d 
roof situated 50 feet north-northwestward of the lighthouse, sounds 
blasts of 10 seconds’ duration with intervals of 50 seconds during 
fogs and snowstorms. If the horn be disabled, a similar signal is 
made from a building 100 feet east-northeastward of the lighthouse. 

Hocks. —Several large rocks above water extend ^ mile eastward 
and southeastward of Bicquette island, narrowing the breadth of 
Bicquette channel, between them and Bic island, to about 800 yards. 
Two large rocks always above water, and a third which covers at 
high water, lie about 219° from the southwestern end of Bicquette 
island, nearly in a line, and extend 1 mile from the island. 

Northwest reef, lying 248°, miles from the western end of Bic¬ 
quette island, is formed of two rocks about 300 yards long, which 
just cover at high water. The western end of Bic island in line with 
the northwestern point of Ha Ha bay (which, however, can seldom 
be plainly made out, in consequence of the high land behind it) leads 
over the reef. Cape Orignal in line with the western point of Bic 
island, 114°, leads southwestward of the reef. The western beacons 
on Bic island in line lead close westward of the reef. 

Bicquette island and Northwest reef are bold to the northward, and 
there is deep water between the reef and the rocks southeastward of it,, 
but this passage should not be used for navigation, except in case of 
necessity. 

Bicquette channel, between Bic and Bicquette islands, should 
not be used for navigation, as there are no leading marks for running 
through, but in case of necessity it may be used with the assistance 
of the chart. The southwestern reef off Bicquette island is most in 
the way, and the two small round rocks on the Bic island side, 400 
yards offshore, and bearing nearly 202° from the western end of Bic¬ 
quette island, must be avoided. 

Directions.— To clear the southwestern reef off Bicquette island, 
do not bring the southern extremity of the rocks off the southeastern 
side of Bicquette island to bear eastward of 48°; and to clear the 
small round rocks off Bic island, which, however, always show, ex¬ 
cepting in very high tides, do not bring the northern side of Bic 
island, near its eastern end, to bear northward of 65°. These direc¬ 
tions are, however, insufficient without the chart, which must be used, 
for this is an intricate and dangerous place. The best time to run 
through is at low water, when all the reefs show; and in mid-channel 


318 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

there are depths of 9J to 5 fathoms, with irregular soundings and 
occasional foul ground. 

Anchorage.—There is excellent anchorage under either end of 
Bic island, within a distance of 3 miles, giving a sufficient berth to 
the reefs, and also between it and the main land, according to the 
wind; and it is better for a sailing vessel meeting an easterly wind to 
anchor than attempt to beat down the estuary in the long and foggy 
nights of the fall of the year. 

Directions—Bic channel. —Steam vessels bound up or down the 
St. Lawrence may go through Bic channel, between Bic island and 
the southern shore of the river, keeping rather nearer the island and 
guarding against the shoal off Barnaby island. Pass northward of 
Alcide rock, which is marked by a black buoy (for clearing marks see 
p. 321) and thence shape a course to pass about midway between Red 
Islet lightvessel and Green island. In thick weather it is advisable to 
pass northward of Bicquette island, and then to steer for about mid¬ 
way between Red Islet lightvessel and Green island. (See also the 
following directions. For directions above Green island, see p. 453.) 

Sailing vessels—With easterly winds. —Being northeastward 
of Bic island, with the first of an easterly gale, bear up before the 
weather becomes thick, and steer for Bic channel. Pass 1 mile south¬ 
ward of Southeast reef, not approaching it, or the southern side of 
Bic island, to a depth of less than 7 fathoms at low water. Run 
westward 1J miles past the western end of Bic island, not approach¬ 
ing West grounds nearer than the depth of 6 fathoms at low water, 
then haul northward and anchor with the southern side of Bic island 
bearing 62° and the northern side 40°, in 8 fathoms at low water, 
muddy bottom. In a large and heavy vessel it might be better to 
anchor farther westward of the island. 

In the position above given there is plenty of room to weigh with 
the first westerly wind, and run eastward through Bic channel. With 
a southerly wind and the ebb stream, it might perhaps be preferable 
to run to the northward and round Northwest reef, in which case 
do not go eastward into less than 8 fathoms at low water, and keep 
cape Orignal open westward of the western end of Bic island until 
northward of Northwest reef. 

In proceeding up the river and having passed northward or south¬ 
ward of Bic island, in the latter case being clear also of Alcide rock, 
steer to pass about 14 miles southeastward of Red Islet lightvessel. 

To proceed to the anchorage from northward of Bic island, run to 
the westward and pass about 1 mile northward of Northwest reef; 
when cape Orignal opens southwestward of Bic island, bearing 112°, 
haul to the southward, going no nearer to the reefs off Bicquette 
island than the depth of 8 fathoms, and anchor as before directed. 


DIRECTIONS. 


319 


Ill thick weather, when the land can not be seen, it is not advisable 
to attempt Bic channel without local knowledge. To pass northward 
of Bicquette island keep in a depth of not less than 30 fathoms until 
far enough westward to insure being clear of Northwest reef, then 
haul to southward for the anchorage. In this case the distance run 
must be carefully attended to, due allowance made for the tidal 
stream, and the soundings considered, but the principal thing is to 
make sure of being westward of Northwest reef before hauling to the 
southward. 

At night.—From some 5 miles off Father Point light, if the land 
can be seen, run in to a position with Father Point light bearing 65° 
distant 10 to 12 miles, observing that the light is not visible to the 
southward of this bearing. Thence shape a course through the middle 
of Bic channel, using caution and considering the soundings so as not 
to close the shore on either side. On reaching the western end of the 
channel, Bicquette light will open, and when the ship is clear of the 
West grounds, which will be when Bicquette light bears to the east¬ 
ward of 12 ° r haul to the northwestward and anchor on a bearing of 
the light. In the position given above for anchoring, Bicquette light 
bears 23°, distant 3 miles. 

If proceeding northward of Bic island, steer southwestward in a 
depth of about 30 fathoms, passing about 2 miles northward of Bic¬ 
quette light. When the light bears 78° haul to the southward for the 
anchorage. 

With westerly winds.—From the westward to anchor under Bic 
islands, after clearing Alcide rock (see p. 321), run along the south¬ 
ern sides of Bic island and Southeast reef; round the eastern end of 
the reef at a distance of not less than £ mile, and in a depth not less 
than 8 fathoms, and anchor with the eastern end of Southeast 
reef bearing 200°, distant j mile, and Bicquette light bearing 253°, 
distant 3J miles, in 10 fathoms at low water, clay bottom. 

Large ships may anchor farther eastward, but in the berth recom¬ 
mended there is plenty of room to cast to the southward and weather 
Southeast reef should a sudden shift of wind occur. If, however, 
proceeding from the anchorage northward round Bicquette island, 
beware of Northeast reef, and also, particularly if the wind be light, 
of the indraft of the flood stream through Bicquette channel between 
Bic and Bicquette islands. 

With northerly winds anchor anywhere in Bic channel, but the 
best berth is f mile off a small sandy point, nearly in the middle of 
Bic island, in 8 to 10 fathoms at low water, mud bottom. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Bic island at 2h. 15m.; springs rise 14 feet, neaps 8-| feet. The dura¬ 
tion of the flood stream is 5h. 50m., and that of the ebb 6h. 34m. 


320 


ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 


Westward of Bic island the flood, at its commencement, sets south- 
westward. There is but little flood stream at neaps in Bic channel, 
excepting close to the southern shore; at springs it runs through ihe 
channel at an average rate of 1J knots, being strongest near the main¬ 
land. It also runs through Bicquette channel, but the stream extends 
a very short distance outside Bicquette island. 

Eastward of Bic island the outer part of the flood stream divides, 
one part running toward and through Bic channel, the other toward 
and through Bicquette channel; both streams run at their full rate 
only until half flood, then become gradually weaker, turning north¬ 
westward (the Bic channel stream passing round the western end of 
Bic island), and to the northward and northeastward toward the end 
of the tide. 

This set of the latter part of the flood stream to the northward past 
the western end of Bic island should be considered when weighing 
from the western anchorage, or when approaching the island with 
light winds, especially at night or in thick weather. 

The flood stream continues close along the mainland, passing inside, 
and also very close outside Razade, Basque, and Apple islands; but it 
nowhere extends a sufficient distance offshore to be of use to ships 
beating to the westward, much below Green island. 

The stream of flood becomes weaker, and of less duration, westward 
of Bic island. Midway between Bic island and Razade islets there is 
slack water for about 1 hour at the end of the ebb; after which a weak 
flood, with a rate of J knot, makes during the first quarter of that 
tide. This is succeeded by the eddy flood, with a rate of 1^ to 2-| 
knots at the edge of the bank of soundings, which runs eastward, or 
in the same direction as the ebb, during the remainder of the flood 
tide. 

Because of the great excess of the east-going stream over the west¬ 
going, sailing vessels make little way to windward against a westerly 
wind on the bank of soundings between Bic island and Green island. 

The ebb at its commencement sets offshore, or from the southward, 
at Bic island anchorages, and this is particularly remarkable at the 
eastern anchorage; but it lasts only for a very short time, after which 
the stream runs fairly between the islands, and along the shore to the 
eastward, for the remainder of the tide. Its rate, in westerly winds, 
varies from 2 knots at neaps to 2^ knots at springs, but in easterly 
winds it is not so strong. 

Bank of soundings. —The southern bank of soundings, both east¬ 
ward and westward of Bic and Bicquette islands, is extensive, and the 
soundings on it are useful to vessels at night or in fogs. Vessels 
should therefore use the lead and be guided in great part by the 
chart. 


ALCIDE KOCK. 


321 


There is anchorage on this bank in 10 to 12 fathoms, with good 
holding ground all along the southern shore from Bic island to Green 
island. 

The shore of the mainland, trending southwestward 14 miles, 
oetween Ha Ha bay and Razade islets is high and rocky. The 
summit of the High land of Bic, 1,236 feet above high water, lies 
196°, 2J miles from cape Orignal. The hills in this locality are 
high and narrow ridges of graywacke rocks, parallel to the shore and 
to each other, and decreasing gradually in height on either side of 
the High land of Bic. These ridges, when nearly end on, from either 
up or down the estuary, present so remarkable an outline that the 
land can be made out from great distances. 

There are depths of 5 fathoms to within about 800 yards from the 
shore for 8J miles southwestward of the northwestern point of Ha Ha 
bay. 

Alcide rock, lying 206°, nearly 3§ miles from the western point of 
Bic island and 1.8 miles from the shore to the southward, is about 
6 feet long, and 2 feet wide, with 4 feet on it at low water. It rises 
from a rocky shoal, about 200 yards long, east-southeast and west- 
southwest, and 100 yards wide, immediately around which are depths 
of 5 to 10 fathoms. 

Clearing marks. —The southwestern (in the form of a reversed 
cross) and northeastern (in the form of a diamond) beacons on the 
western end of Bic island (see p. 316) in line, lead over Alcide rock; 
and the two white beacons on the mainland about 5 miles westward 
of cape Orignal—one'of which is of a diamond shape and the other 
of a sugar loaf—in line, also lead over the rock; therefore to clear the 
rock keep one set of these beacons open. Mount Camille, 2.036 feet 
high, open northward of cape Orignal leads northward of the rock. 

Buoy. —A black can buoy, No. 31 B, is moored in 9 fathoms close 
northward of Alcide rock, with the beacons on the southern shore in 
line and with the diamond shaped beacon on Bic island, just open 
northward of the reversed cross beacon. 

Ridge.— From the mainland about 8J miles westward of the north¬ 
western point of Ha Ha bay, the 4-fathom line of soundings runs 
west-south west ward for 2f miles and thence southwestward to North¬ 
east Razade islet; within this line is a ridge of rocky ground with 
irregular depths and with 17 feet least water about 3J miles to the 
eastward of Northeast Razade islet. Basque island, its own breadth 
open northward of Northeast Razade islet, leads northward of the 
ridge. Small vessels may stand close inshore, but those of over 10 
feet draft should not stand in farther than 7 fathoms at low and 9 
fathoms at high water. 


50918—08-21 



322 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 

Razade islets. —Northeast Razade islet lies about 16 miles west¬ 
ward of cape Orignal and 1J miles from the mainland to the south¬ 
ward; Southwest Razade is 1£ miles farther southwestward and 1£ 
miles offshore. These islets are each about £ mile long, rocky, low, 
and bare of trees. There is no passage for vessels between the islets 
and the southern shore; shoal water extends about 1 mile northeast¬ 
ward of Northeast Razade, about 400 yards northward of it, and 
about 1,400 yards northward of Southwest Razade. 

Basque island, lying southwestward 5 miles from Northeast Ra¬ 
zade islet, is 1£- miles long, parallel to the shore, and 400 yards wide. 
Its height is about 100 feet above the sea; it is rocky and partly 
wooded, with a house at its western end. There is no passage for 
ships between it and the mainland, from which it is distant 2 miles. 

A sandy spit extends £ mile southward from near the southwestern 
end of the island. Close off the end of this spit there is a long and 
narrow hole with 4 to 5 fathoms in it at low water, in Avhich small 
craft moor. 

Shoal water extends ^ mile northward of Basque island; a reef of 
rocks extends westward and northwestward from its western point, 
and on the western end of this reef, about 1,200 yards distant from 
the island, is a round rock which is uncovered at half tide. 

Trois Pistoles is a village situated on the mainland southeastward 
of Basque island, containing a station of the Intercolonial railway; it 
is a flourishing center to which an extensive traffic converges. At the 
village there is a pier extending out 900 feet in a 322° direction, from 
the extremity of the point just eastward of the village church. The 
pier is 30 feet wide, with an L 100 feet long extending to the east¬ 
ward at its outer end. The pier foundations are dry at low water. 

Light. —A pole on the outer end of this pier exhibits, at 20 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in clear 
weather, from all points of approach, a distance of 9 miles. 

Apple island, 2| miles southwestward of Basque island and 2£ 
miles from the mainland, is formed by one principal and several 
smaller adjoining rocks, the whole being 1 mile long, parallel to the 
shore, and 300 yards wide. It is some 30 to 40 feet above high water, 
and is without any trees. Between it and the main there is no 
passage for ships, but its northern side is bold-to, with a depth of 
4 fathoms at the distance of 200 yards. 

Green island, the northeastern point of which lies southwestward 
2f miles from Apple island, is 6£ miles long, northeast and southwest, 
and 1 mile wide. The island is of gray wacke and slate rock, is about 
250 feet high, and wooded. From its northeastern end a long and 
narrow point of rocks, always above water, extends more than £ 
mile from the trees on Green island toward Apple island; and 


GREEN ISLAND. 


323 


about half the whole distance toward Apple island is occupied by 
reefs of slate which dry at low water. Betw y een these reefs and Apple 
island there is a channel carrying a few feet of water and affording 
a passage for small craft, which run in between Green island and 
the mainland at high water. 

Shoal water. —The line of shoal water from Northeast Razade islet 
to Green island is continuous from each of these islands to the other, 
and it may be safely approached with care to 7 fathoms at low or 10 
fathoms at high water. 

Light. —A white polygonal tower, 56 feet high, on the northwest 
point of Green island, exhibits, at 60 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, w T hich should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 13 
miles. 

A brown dwelling is attached to the lighthouse. 

Fog signal. —An explosive fog signal is fired every 15 minutes 
during fog and snowstorms. If a vessel’s fog signal is heard in 
dangerous proximity, an additional fog signal is fired and repeated 
every 5 minutes while the vessel’s fog signal continues to be heard. 

Beacons. —At 136°, about } mile from the lighthouse, is a white 
beacon, which in line wdth the lighthouse leads northeastward of the 
tail of Red Islet reef. 

Green Island reef extends northward 1| miles from the light¬ 
house to the depth of 3 fathoms; thence it trends, with a serrated 
outline, eastward till it joins the shoal water connecting Green island 
and Apple island. Its northwestern side is straight, running from 
the northeastern end of the reef to the coast of Green island close 
westward of the lighthouse, off which it extends only 400 yards. 
The rocks on the reef dry, at low water, nearly } mile out from high- 
water mark. 

On the northeastern side this reef may be safely approached to the 
depth of 7 fathoms at low water, but on the northern and western 
sides there is deep water close-to, and at the distance of a little more 
than i mile on those sides there is a depth of 30 fathoms, which 
rapidly increases to about 40 fathoms. 

Caution. —Deep as is the water northward of this reef, the only 
guides, in a thick fog when the lights can not be seen, are the sound¬ 
ings and the fog signal; yet, as the ebb stream sets upon the reef at 
the rate of 5 knots, command of the vessel must not be lost for the 
purpose of getting bottom, and therefore a sounding machine becomes 
invaluable. 

Leading marks. —The summit of the high land southward of cape 
Orignal (the High land of Bic), open northward of Basque island 
(see chart), leads close nortlrward of Green Island reef. 


324 


ST. LA WHENCE LOWER RIVER-SOUTH SHORE. 


The eastern end of Great Pilgrim island in line with the south¬ 
western extreme of Green island, 208°, also leads northwestward of 
the reef in 5 fathoms; but Pilgrim islands are so distant that they 
can be seen from the reef only in fine weather. 

Anchorage. —There is excellent anchorage in westerly winds 
under Green Island reef, and this is the general rendezvous of vessels 
waiting for the flood to beat through between Green island and Red 
islet. But as the first of the flood sets to the southward and on the 
shoals, vessels must not anchor with the lighthouse bearing westward 
of 210°, or in less than 7 fathoms at low water. The position with 
the lighthouse bearing 210° and with a depth of 7 fathoms is 2J miles 
from the lighthouse, 1 mile from the eastern edge of the reef, and 
the same distance from the shoal water to the southward. Still more- 
room may be obtained in 9, 10, or 11 fathoms, bottom of stiff mud in 
either depth. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Green island at 2h. 45m.; springs rise 16 feet, neaps 9^ feet. 

The duration of the flood stream in the offing is 6h. 0m.; and that of 
the ebb 6h. 24m. At the anchorage with the light bearing 215°, dis¬ 
tant 3 miles, the first of the flood stream appears to set southward; 
at 2 hours flood, southwestward; at 4 hours flood, westward; at 6 
hours flood, northwestward. At first- the ebb sets northward; at 2 
hours ebb, northeastward; at 4 hours ebb, eastward; and at 6 hours 
ebb, southeastward. The water is never quite slack, the stream con¬ 
tinuing to run, more or less, during the whole time. The rate of the 
ebb on one occasion was 3 knots, and that of the flood 2 knots. 

Note.— The southern shore of the lower river and estuary has now 
been described to where the channel becomes narrow. The descrip¬ 
tion of the northern shore of the gulf and estuary will now be taken 
up from Belle Isle strait and carried as far westward as Green island. 
Then in Chapter X and beyond the description of the river above 
Green island will be given. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


COAST OF LABRADOR—STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE—PROVINCE 

OF QUEBEC—GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, NORTH SHORE— 

GREENLY ISLAND TO CAPE WHITTLE. 

Variation in 1908. 

Belle Isle light-34° 45' W. j Outer island_32° 05' W. 

Greenly island-33° 00' W. j Cape Whittle_30° 20' W. 

Little Mekattina island_31° 00' W. i 

Strait of Belle Isle. 

General remarks. —In this chapter only so much description of 
the strait of Belle Isle will be given as will be necessary for the navi¬ 
gator to pass through it. The strait and the coast on each side of it 
are fully described in Hydrographic Office publication, No. 73, 
Newfoundland and Labrador. 

* 

Belle isle, lying directly off the Atlantic entrance to the strait of 
Belle Isle is about 9J miles long northeast and southwest, and 3 miles 
wide, and is composed of a range of hills, bare of trees, which rises 
680 feet above the sea. These hills are principally of granite, alter¬ 
nating with clay and slate, and their sides form everywhere a steep 
coast, except at the northeastern end of the island, where two low 
points converge so as to form Black Joke cove, a narrow creek which 
shelters very small fishing vessels during the finest summer months. 
Shelter may also be obtained in Lark harbor, and in Valley cove, 2J 
miles southwestward of Lark island; but none of these coves are con¬ 
sidered safe early in spring, or late in autumn, because of the heavy 
swell which rolls into them from the eastward. 

Lark island, which is about 1,200 yards long, narrow, and 200 
feet high, lies off the middle of the northern part of Belle isle. Lark 
harbor, between Lark island and Belle isle, is only 400 yards wide, 
with deep water and indifferent holding ground; it is much exposed 
to easterly winds, but as it has two entrances, vessels easily get to sea. 

Black Joke cove, about 150 feet wide, with 12 feet water, is inside 
an islet joined to Belle isle at low water, and affords secure shelter to 
only two small vessels moored head and stern; but in heavy easterly 
gales, especially at high water springs, the seas break heavily over the 
ledge of rocks, and render the cove unsafe. 


325 







326 


STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 


Valley cove affords fair anchorage and shelter during easterly 
winds; the bottom is sand, and between the line of the points the 
soundings are 17 fathoms, decreasing gradually to the shore. 

The southern side of Belle isle affords no anchorage and has 
hardly a creek where a boat could find shelter. 

Belle isle is frequented by English and French fishermen. 

Bock. —A rock, with an estimated depth of 9 feet over it and upon 
which the sea has been seen to break heavily, lies with the southwest¬ 
ern end of Belle isle bearing 149°, distant \ mile; this rock is prob¬ 
ably that reported by the Ontario, in October, 1881, to exist about 1 
mile north-northwestward of the southwestern point of Belle isle. 

Light—Northeastern point. —A cylindrical red lighthouse, 55 
feet high, on the northeastern point of Belle isle, exhibits, at 137 
feet above high water, a flashing white light every 11 seconds, thus: 
Flash, J second; eclipse, 10J seconds, which should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 17 miles. 

Fog signal.—A diaphone trumpet, operated by compressed air, 
from a rectangular, red building, situated about 200 feet 45° from 
the lighthouse and 90 feet above high water, gives, during thick or 
foggy weather, 1 blast of 3J seconds’ duration every minute, thus: 
Blast 3J seconds, silent interval 56J seconds. 

Lights—Southern* point. —A circular white tower, 59 feet high, 
on the summit of the southern point of Belle isle, exhibits, at 470 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, which is visible from 
about 111°, through north to 243°, and should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 28 miles. 

The keeper’s dwelling, painted white, is attached to the lighthouse. 

A square white lighthouse with a red lantern, 31 feet high, situ¬ 
ated below the high lighthouse, exhibits, at 137 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance 
of 17 miles, except where obscured by the high land of Belle isle. 

In fog the high light may be obscured when the low light is visible, 
or vice versa. 

Fog signal. —A siren, operated by compressed air, from a small 
white building midway between the high and low lights at the south¬ 
ern point of Belle isle and 250 feet above high water, gives during 
thick or foggy weather two blasts in succession, of a high note and a 
low note, respectively, every 2 minutes, thus: Low blast, 24 seconds; 
silent interval, 2^ seconds; high blast, 2^ seconds; silent interval, 
1124 seconds. Should the fog siren become disabled, cotton powder 
bombs will be exploded every 10 minutes. If a vessel’s fog signal is 
heard in dangerous proximity, an additional bomb will be immedi¬ 
ately exploded, and the explosions will be continued at intervals of 
5 minutes until the vessel has passed the station. 


EASTERN ENTRANCE. 


327 


Marine signal station. —A signal and telegraph and ice-report 
station is established at the southern point of Belle isle, at the light¬ 
house, and is included in Lloyd’s system of reporting stations. A 
blue light burnt at this station indicates to a vessel firing distin¬ 
guishing rockets that her signals are recognized and will be reported. 
Belle isle is connected by cable with Chateau bay. and thus with the 
Canadian telegraph system. 

Wireless telegraph. —Vessels can communicate with Belle Isle 
signal station by wireless telegraph, and this system can be used for 
communicating between Belle isle and Chateau bay. The wireless 
station at Belle isle has the Marconi system and is operated bv the 
Canadian department of marine and fisheries. Its call letter is BL. 

Provision depot. —There is a depot of provisions for shipwrecked 
mariners at the low lighthouse on the southern point. 

Northeast ledge, 13°. 1J miles from the northeastern point of 
Belle isle, dries at low water springs; there is deep water in the chan¬ 
nel between the ledge and the island. 

Strait of Belle Isle. —The eastern entrance of the strait of Belle 
Isle, between St. Peter islands and Belle isle is 13 miles wide, and that 
between Belle isle and cape Bauld, Newfoundland, is 14 miles wide, 
but the narrowest part of the strait is southward of Amour point, 
where it is 9J miles wide. The western entrance of the strait between 
Greenly island and Ferolle point is nearly 2 miles wide: the point 
bearing from the island 169°. The length of the strait from the 
southern end of Belle isle to a position 7 miles south of Greenly 
island is about 73 miles. 

The northern shore is composed of granite and is steep, rising to 
flat topped ridges and summits 1,000 to 1,300 feet high, from York 
point westward to cape Diable; thence to Long point, at the western 
entrance of the strait, it is composed of sandstone lying on granite. 

Outer soundings. —The bank of soundings, on which the least 
water yet found is 86 fathoms, mud, lying about 28 miles eastward of 
the northeastern point of Belle isle, affords a valuable guide to vessels 
approaching the strait from the eastward in foggy weather. 

Westward of this bank and between it and the bank, stretching 
eastward some 8 miles from Belle isle, and on which the depths are less 
than 100 fathoms, the depths are 101 to 208 fathoms, sand. 

Tooker bank is composed of a series of small banks lying between 
lat. 51° 43J' and 51° 47' N., and long. 54° 57^' and 55° 00' W. The 
largest of these banks, within the 50-fathom line, is 1 mile long, north- 
northeast and south-southwest, and ^ mile wide, with a least depth of 
14 fathoms; this depth is situated 120°, 16| miles from Belle Isle 
Southeast lighthouse. Other heads of 36 to 50 fathoms lie northward 
and westward of this bank, and they are small and steep, being appar- 


328 


STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 


ently the summits of a very uneven ridge. Westward of these banks 
is a large gully, about 90 to 110 fathoms deep, from which the sound¬ 
ings gradually decrease to the depth of 60 fathoms and thence more 
suddenly toward the land. 

Soundings in the strait. —The deepest water in the strait of 
Belle Isle is on the Labrador side, but the line of deep water is not 
direct nor continuous through the strait, and it is remarkable that 
there is very deep water within about 2 miles off the dangerous 
Flower ledges on the Newfoundland side. The depth of water varies 
between 80 and 16 fathoms, and the bottom is in some places rock, and 
in others sand, broken shells, coral, or gravel. 

The strait, with the exception of Maudit bank and some shoals off 
the Newfoundland coast near its western end, is free from shoal 
obstructions to navigation in its fairway. 

Maudit bank. — (See Hydrographic Office publication No. 73, 
Newfoundland and Labrador. 

Fairway bank, lying 230°, about 14 miles from the southern point 
of Belle isle, is 2 miles in extent north-northwest and south-southeast, 
and 1^ miles east-northeast and west-southwest; the least water on the 
bank is 16 fathoms, but the general depth is 20 fathoms, rock bottom. 

Centre bank extends southwestward nearly 20 miles from about 
6J miles southward of the western point of Red bay; the depths on 
the bank are 24 to 30 fathoms. 

Tidal streams and currents. —The movement of the water in 
Belle Isle strait is predominantly tidal. When uninfluenced by the 
wind the stream runs east and west for nearly equal periods, and 
turns regularly in accordance with the rise and fall of the tide. On 
the whole, the westerly, or inward flow, seems to be slightly greater 
than the easterly or outward flow. 

It appears, as yet, impossible to predict with accuracy the direction 
of the streams in the strait, but under normal conditions the west¬ 
going stream begins about 4 hours before high water at Forteau bay, 
and the east-going stream about 2^ hours after high water there, the 
streams turning in direction with the hands of a watch. The ordinary 
rate during tfye strength of the streams is 1 to 2 knots an hour, but 
the greatest rates observed have been of the west-going stream, 3| 
knots, and of the east-going stream 2^ knots. The rates and directions 
of both streams are greatly affected bv any strong winds blowing at 
the time or just previously. 

On the Labrador side the west-going stream predominates, es¬ 
pecially toward the eastern end of the strait and near the shore, 
where it is so strong at times as to prevent the fishermen from haul¬ 
ing their nets. 


TIDAL STREAMS AND CURRENTS. 


329 


On the Newfoundland side, toward cape Norman, the reverse ap¬ 
pears to be the case. Certainly there is more slack water on that side 
than on the Labrador side. The east-going stream runs round cape 
Norman with considerable strength, while the west-going stream is 
comparatively weak, The streams do not always run fairly through 
the strait, and with both the east-going and the west-going streams 
there is an indraft toward Cook and Pistolet bays. 

A strong wind through the strait either way makes a drift, which 
causes the opposing tidal stream to slacken, and eventually overcomes 
it altogether. A continuous current then runs in the direction toward 
which the wind is blowing, but its rate increases or decreases ac¬ 
cording as the tidal stream is wdth or against it. This appears to take 
place earlier on the Labrador side of the strait than on the Newfound¬ 
land side, which is more under tidal influence. 

The general Arctic current setting southward past the Atlantic 
mouth of the strait is influenced by the tidal inflow and outflow of the 
strait itself; the greater inflow toward the strait takes place on the 
northern side of the entrance and the greater outflow on the southern 
side. 

The movement of icebergs is strong evidence of, at times at any 
rate, a preponderance of westerly flow of the body of water on the 
Labrador side of Belle Isle strait. During the summer of 1898 an un¬ 
usually small number of icebergs were in the strait, due probably to 
the general persistence of westerly winds, but whenever they were in 
the strait they slowly and persistently pursued their course to the 
westward, keeping on the Labrador side. A gale from the westward 
might cause a slight drift back to the eastward, but as soon as it was 
over the westerly course was again resumed unless, by grounding, 
the bergs remained stationary, until, by breaking up, they were light¬ 
ened sufficiently to drift again with the current. 

All broken ice drifts ashore on the Labrador coast, none, it is stated, 
ever reaching the Newfoundland coast, and no ice was seen in 1898 on 
that side. One small berg was observed a few miles northeastward of 
cape Norman, but apparently this berg drifted to the eastward and 
did not enter the strait. 

As far as could be seen, the icebergs entering the strait passed be¬ 
tween Belle isle and Labrador. The movements of icebergs, so much 
of their volume being immersed, are necessarily due to the resultant 
flow of the whole body of w r ater from the surface to the bottom. Many 
bergs were deep enough to ground in 55 fathoms. 

Although persistent strong westerly winds frequently caused the 
surface current to flow continuously eastward, the few observations 
made on undercurrents showed that they were less affected by the 
prevailing winds than the surface current; it is therefore possible. 


330 


STRAIT OF.BELLE ISLE. 


regarding the movement of the ice, that the body of the water on the 
Labrador side, taken as a whole, has a resultant flow westward. 

The ice, as it broke up, always eventually drifted ashore on the 
Labrador coast; no noticeable indraft affecting navigation was, how¬ 
ever, experienced anywhere, except westward of York point, where 
an indraft was frequently felt toward the land. 

Toward cape Norman it was observed that there was a preponder¬ 
ance of easterly set; and although farther westward this was not 
noticeable, it is probable that on the southern side of the strait there 
is a slight general preponderance of easterly set, from the fact that 
the shore is everywhere thickly strewn with driftwood, none of which 
is ever seen on the northern shore, and it may be presumed that this 
driftwood comes from the St. Lawrence river. 

The fishermen state that on several occasions bamboos have been 
washed up, in nearly every instance with a hole cut at the thick end, 
as if they had been used for fishing stakes, as in China, etc., and it 
is difficult to account for them. 

About the end of July, 1898, a lumber vessel was reported to have 
been wrecked westward of Blanc Sablon, and shortly afterwards 
large quantities of floating timber were observed along the New¬ 
foundland coast, and a quantity also came ashore at Green Island 
brook. None was seen on the Labrador side. 

Icebergs. (See p. 41.) 

Occasionally large pieces of icebergs drift into the anchorages on 
the northern shore of the strait, causing danger to the fishermen’s 
nets, and even sometimes to vessels at anchor, so that it may be 
necessary to get underway. No warning is given of the proximity 
of ice, as a rule, by change of temperature of the sea. On one occa¬ 
sion, within 100 yards of a large berg, the temperature of the sea was 
50° and its density 22, to windward; temperature 49° and density 
15, to leeward; the normal temperature of the sea being 51° and 
density 23. 

Fogs.—During summer dense fogs prevail all over the strait, and 
sometimes last for several days at a time. Thick fogs are equally 
prevalent with either direction of the wind; with westerly winds the 
fog commences to the westward and rolls gradually along the Labra¬ 
dor side, frequently extending only a short distance from that 
coast, so that by keeping over toward the Newfoundland side the fog 
may often be avoided. With easterly winds the fog is more general 
on both sides of the strait. The Newfoundland side almost invaria¬ 
bly clears first. These fogs cling closely to the water and the shore¬ 
line, and from a vessel’s masthead the summits of the Labrador hills 
may sometimes, though rarely, be seen over them. 

During a period of 40 days in July and August, when simultaneous 
observations were made on both sides of the strait, fogs, mist, etc., 


GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 831 

occurred on 60 per cent of the days on the Labrador side, and on 40 
per cent on the Newfoundland side. 

Landing 1 . —After strong easterly winds a heavy swell, lasting sev¬ 
eral days, sets through the strait and makes landing at most places 
on the coast of Newfoundland impossible. 

Navigation. —Steamers navigate the strait from July to October, 
inclusive. 

General directions. —From the eastward, with clear weather, 
make Belle isle or its lights, pass southward of the island and through 
the fairway of the strait. 

In making the eastern entrance of the strait in thick weather great 
caution is necessary and soundings should be constantly obtained. 
The position may possibly be ascertained by the fog signals on Belle 
isle, cape Bauld, and cape Norman. Midway between Belle isle and 
cape Norman the depths assist in estimating the position, there being 
a gradual decrease in depth from the entrance until the bank, which 
extends northeastward 15 miles from Pistolet bay, is passed; this 
bank has depths under 30 fathoms, and beyond it the water deepens 
to from 30 to 50 fathoms. 

In proceeding westward through the strait, if the vessel is in the 
middle, depths of 24 to 30 fathoms will be struck on Centre bank. 
Failure to strike this extensive bank indicates that the vessel has 
passed it on one side, but as the soundings are much alike on both 
sides it wffll be difficult to determine which. Some assistance may then 
be derived from the temperature of the surface water, wffiich is gen¬ 
erally, but not invariably, warmer on the Newfoundland side than on 
the Labrador side, there being sometimes a difference of as much as 
20° F. On the Newfoundland side it seldom falls below 50° during 
the navigable season. When passing Amour point the fog whistle 
may be heard. 

From the westward in clear weather make Greenly island, or its 
light, pass through the fairway of the strait and southward of 
Belle isle. 

In thick weather observe that the soundings in the western ap¬ 
proach are deeper on its northern than on its southern side. The 
position may possibly be ascertained by the fog signals at Greenly 
island and Amour point, after whidh there should not be much diffi¬ 
culty in getting to sea, assisted by the soundings and the fog signals 
at cape Norman, cape Bauld, and Belle isle. 

A sailing vessel bound eastward through the strait with a south¬ 
westerly wind and appearance of fog tow T ard night should, perhaps, 
stand off and on under easy sail, tacking by the deep-sea lead, till 
daylight, if not to the eastward of Ferolle point. If beyond that 
point, it may be w^ell to seel?: an anchorage. 


332 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


In a sailing vessel with light winds or calms, during foggy weather, 
it is better to bring up with a stream anchor anywhere in the strait 
rather than to drift about with the streams, but a lookout must be 
kept for drifting icebergs. 

Anchorages. —In thick weather it will probably be advisable to 
anchor in one of the bays on the northern side of the strait rather than 
continue under way. Black bay might afford a temporary anchorage 
in summer for a steamer. Red bay is a good small harbor, but it can 
not be entered by a large sailing vessel with easterly winds. Pin ware 
bay is the first anchorage available when proceeding westward with 
easterly winds, but then there is a heavy swell in the bay. Anse a 
Loup is the first good anchorage for a sailing vessel with easterly 
winds, but it is not worth while stopping there when bound westward, 
as then the strait is nearly cleared. Forteau bay is a fairly good road¬ 
stead, although a heavy swell sometimes comes in, and Blanc Sablon 
is considered a safe anchorage in summer. (For full description of 
both shores of Belle Isle strait see Hydrographic Office publication 
No. 73, Newfoundland and Labrador.) 

Gulf of St. Lawrence, North Shore. 

QUEBEC. 

General description of the coast. —The northern shore of the 
gulf of St. Lawrence, or the southern coast of that part of the north¬ 
eastern portion of the province of Quebec, lying between Long point 
and cape Whittle, the western end of Lake island, 136 miles to the 
westward, is broken into inlets and bays, and fringed with islands, 
rocks, and ledges, which frequently rise abruptly to within a few feet 
of the surface, from depths so great as to afford no warning by the 
lead. In some parts the islands and rocks are so numerous that only 
very small vessels can navigate among them. These vessels are aided 
by small beacons and cairns of stones, locally called squaupees, but 
which require local knowledge to distinguish them. 

Generally the mainland does not rise over 500 feet above the sea, 
and is often very much lower, as are all the islands, excepting Great 
and Little Mekattina. These two high islands, the High land of 
Mekattina, 685 feet above the sea, and Bradore hills are all very re¬ 
markable, and serve to assist in fixing the position of vessels from 
some distance. Bradore hills are three contiguous round backed 
mountains, situated 4 to 5 miles northeastward from the head of 
Bradore bay; the northwestern summit is 1.264 feet above the sea, 
and is the highest land on this coast. 

The mainland and islands are of granite rocks, with no trees ex¬ 
cepting at the heads of the bays, where there are occasionally small 
spruce and birch trees. When not entirely barren the mainland 


NAVIGATION-SOUNDINGS. 


333 


and islands are covered with moss or scrubby spruce bushes, and 
there are many ponds of dark bog water frequented by waterfowl 
and flocks of the Labrador curlew. 

Navigation—Caution.— It is dangerous to approach this coast 
or to navigate in its vicinity at night or in fog, and even with daylight 
and fine weather great caution is required. Although the navigation 
is everywhere more or less intricate, yet there are several harbors 
suitable for large vessels, which may be safely entered. When 
within the outer reefs, or near them, a lookout for the ledges from 
aloft is necessary. Drifting icebergs are frequently met. 

Tides and currents. —Inshore and among the islands the flood 
tidal stream sets weakly westward and the ebb weakly eastward; 
but both streams are much influenced by the winds. In the area 
between a line drawn from Rich point northward to Eskimo islands 
and the western end of Belle Isle strait, the currents are variable 
and uncertain, being intermediate between a current setting north¬ 
eastward on the western coast of Newfoundland and the tidal streams 
of Belle Isle strait. In the western part of this area the rate is 
usually less than 1 knot, and rarely greater than 1J knots, but 
toward the entrance of the strait it increases. In the offing of Es¬ 
kimo islands the stream usually sets along the land in either direc¬ 
tion, but at times it sets off and on shore for a whole tide. A current 
sometimes runs southeastward from the vicinity of Greenly island 
and sets strongly on the shore about Flower cove, coast of Newfound¬ 
land. 

On the northern shore of the gulf from Eskimo islands to cape 
Whittle, in calms or easterly winds, the general movement of the 
water is westward, but in westerly winds it is very variable. Be¬ 
tween cape Whittle and Heath point, Anticosti island, the currents 
are weak and affected by the wind. 

Of course the tidal streams through Belle Isle strait affect the 
currents and they must be considered. 

Caution. —The currents along this coast are very variable and 
uncertain and must be carefully watched. 

No lights. —As there is not a single light along this coast west¬ 
ward of Greenly island its navigation is extremely dangerous at 
night. 

Soundings. —The soundings off the coast are generally deep and 
irregular. From some 25 miles southeastward of Great Mekattina 
island, a bank, on which the depths are 34 to 50 fathoms with one or 
two shoaler patches, extends westward parallel to the coast for about 
50 miles. There is deeper water between this bank and the northern 
shore of the gulf, and also for some 30 miles southward of it toward 
Newfoundland. 


334 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Variation of the compass. —It must be remembered that in the 
136 miles of coast described in this chapter, the variation of the com¬ 
pass changes 3 degrees—from 33° W. to 30° W. It must also be 
remembered that in some places there is apt to be local magnetic dis¬ 
turbance of the compass needle. (See p. 38.) 

Climate. —The climate is very severe, and the difficulties of naviga¬ 
tion are much increased by the fogs which accompany the prevalent 
southerly winds. It is probable that the mean temperature of the 
year is not above 32° F. The ice does not usually leave the coast 
before June, and the young ice begins to form again in the pools and 
sheltered small bays in September, when frosts are frequent at night. 
At midsummer only a very few of the earliest plants are found in 
flower, the grass has not sprung up, and the moss still retains the 
brown color of winter; large masses of snow continue to occupy the 
ravines and hollows and the shaded northern sides of steep hills. 

In the sheltered bays the temperature is much higher and the fogs 
less frequent than among the outer islands, while, at the distance of 
some 15 miles inland, the water is said to be quite warm in summer, 
and the country thickly wooded with spruce, juniper, birch, and 
poplar trees, which grow in valleys where the soil is of sandy clay, 
only the summits of the hills being bare granite like the coast. The 
climate slightly improves in proceeding to the south westward. 

Inhabitants and productions. —A few Indians of the Mon- 
tagnais or Mountaineers tribe, may be found on the coast, which is 
also visited occasionally by a small number of Eskimo families. 

There are deer (caribou), bears, wolves, foxes, martens, otters, 
beavers, and Canadian porcupines in the interior, most of which are 
hunted for their skins by the few inhabitants of the coast. The 
Canadian partridge and the ptarmigan, or willow grouse, are also 
plentiful. 

The only permanent inhabitants are a few widely scattered fami¬ 
lies, residing at seal and salmon fishing, and fur trading establish¬ 
ments, at Bradore, Eskimo bay, St. Augustine harbor, Little Fish 
harbor, and Etamamu, which are visited periodically by small vessels 
from Quebec. These are the only people who could be relied on for 
assistance by shipwrecked crews, except perhaps a family residing on 
the island between Bonne Esperance and Salmon bay in summer and 
in Old Fort bay in winter. The remaining two or three families are 
very poor people, who seem just able to make out an indifferent liveli¬ 
hood by hunting and fishing. 

Seals and salmon are very plentiful. Codfish are abundant on the 
coast, especially eastward of Mistanoque; and the fishery for them 
is carried on not only by resident inhabitants, but also by vessels 
which visit the coast every summer. 


GREENLY ISLAND-PERROQUET ISLAND. 835 

With its severe and glooni}^ climate, and producing nothing that 
can support human life, this is one of the most barren and desolate 
coasts in the world. In many parts the scenery is not without beauty, 
but it is of a wild and dreary character, and the only inducement to 
visit the coast is its fisheries. 

For a description of the coast of Labrador to Greenly island and 
Long point see Hydrographic Office publication No. 73, Newfound¬ 
land and Labrador. 

Greenly island (ile Verte) consists of two hillocks joined by a 
plateau between two coves, the northern hillock being 84 feet high 
and the southern 63 feet high. The northern shore is bold, but off 
the southern are a rock, that dries at low water, and shoals, which 
together extend J mile southward. A large fishing establishment, 
owned by Job Brothers & Co., is situated in the eastern cove. Greenly 
island is the resort of puffins, which appear in great numbers sud¬ 
denly in June and disappear as suddenly in October. 

Light. —A white octagonal tower with a circular red lantern, the 
whole 86 feet high, on the southwestern slope of the southern hillock 
of Greenly island, exhibits, at 116 feet above high water, a flashing 
white light, giving 1 bright flash every 2£ seconds, thus: Flash J 
second, eclipse 2J seconds. The light should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 16 miles. 

The keeper’s dwelling is attached to the lighthouse and is painted 
white with a red roof. 

Fog signal.—A diaphone trumpet operated by compressed air 
gives during thick or foggy weather 1 blast of 5 seconds duration 
every minute, thus: Blast 5 seconds, silent interval 55 seconds. 

The fog-signal building is a rectangular white byilding with a red 
roof, situated 232 yards 125° from the lighthouse and 60 feet back 
from the water’s edge. 

» 

The coast from Long point, about 1J miles north-northwestward 
of Greenly island, trends northward \ mile to the rocky pointe a la 
Chasse, beyond which is Sandy bay; on the southern side of the bay 
and on the point are a few houses and a small chapel with a flagstaff 
near it. 

Perroquet bank, with 4-J fathoms over it, lies 250°, 1J miles from 
Long point. 

Perroquet island, nearly 1 mile northwestward of pointe a la 
Chasse, and about 800 yards off the northern point of Sandy bay, 
is 61 feet high and about £ mile across. Its southwestern side, which 
is fairly steep-to, is faced by cliff; the other sides are foul for a dis¬ 
tance of 200 to 400 yards. Numerous puffins resort here during 
summer. 


336 


GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Bradore bay. —The shore of the gulf trends northward 3^ miles 
from Sandy bay and thence westward; in the bight thus formed are 
the island of Ledges and numerous islets and rocks, within which is 
Bradore bay. The bay is not difficult of access in moderate weather, 
but it is not suitable for large vessels, as the anchorage space is open 
to the heavy sea that rolls in with southwesterly winds. Except for 
vessels able to enter Frigate harbor, or during strong easterly winds, 
the anchorage is inferior to that of Blanc Sablon, to the eastward. 

The land eastward of the bay is for some distance flat and marshy, 
with several large ponds; beyond this it rises in sandstone terraces 
to a rocky flat topped knoll, 297 feet above high water. 

Two streams, separated by the Bluff peninsula, run into the north¬ 
ern part of Bradore bay; the western stream is marked by a water¬ 
fall, and 2f miles westward of the peninsula is a large waterfall that 
is conspicuous from seaward. 

The land westward of the peninsula rises to a chain of bare stony 
hills nearly 500 feet in height, behind which are several ponds. Nu¬ 
merous islands and ledges front the coast, with narrow and shallow 
channels between. 

Island of Ledges (Basin island) is of irregular shape, but about 
1,600 yards across and 60 feet high; it is separated from the eastern 
shore of the bay by a channel nearly 1,200 yards wide. Off its east¬ 
ern coast there is a chain of islets, which are steep-to toward the chan¬ 
nel ; but between them and the island there are depths of only 6 feet 
to 3 fathoms. Numerous islets and ledges lie off the southern and 
western sides of the island, which must not be approached within a 
distance of 1J miles. 

Several rocks and shoals lie between island of Ledges and the 
northern shore of the bay, all of which break heavily in bad weather, 
and entrance to the harbor northward of this island must not be at¬ 
tempted under any circumstances. 

Frigate harbor lies at the northeastern part of the island of 
Ledges, and on its shores are a few houses and fishing stages. The 
water is sufficiently deep, but the anchorage space is only about 300 
yards across. 

The Basin lies southward of Frigate harbor and contains a fishing 
establishment connected with that at Blanc Sablon. This harbor is 
suitable for only small vessels. 

Gull rock, which dries at low water, lies nearly midway between 
the eastern shore of the entrance of the bay and the islets off the 
southeastern end of the island of Ledges. Shoal ground extends 200 
yards southward from it, and at the end of the shoal ground there is 
a rock with 6 feet water over it. From close southward of this 
6-foot rock a ledge with 3^ fathoms over it extends southward 
250 yards. 


EAST ROCK—BELLES AMOURS POINT. 


337 


East rock, with 4J fathoms water over it, lies 180°, distant ^ mile 
from Gull rock. Greenly Island lighthouse, bearing 211°, well open 
westward of Perroquet island, leads westward of these shoals. 

Bull rock, on the western side of the channel to Bradore bay, 
showing 3 feet above high water, lies 340 yards from the southern 
end of the island of Ledges. From it a shoal, with a depth of 16 
feet at its extreme, extends 400 yards southward. 

Directions. —To a vessel approaching Bradore bay, Bradore hills y 
some summits attaining heights of 1,135 to 1,264 feet, are conspicu¬ 
ous, and Greenly Island lighthouse is a good landmark. Avoid Per¬ 
roquet bank, which is situated 250°, 1.3 miles from Long point, and 
has 4J fathoms water over it, by not bringing Greenly Island light 
to bear southward of 133° until the summit of Perroquet island bears 
eastward 18° and then steer for a position 281°, f mile from 
Perroquet island; thence steer 4°, keeping Greenly Island light¬ 
house well open of Perroquet island till past East rock, and not 
shutting the lighthouse in with the western end of Perroquet 
island till past the 3£ fathoms shoal southward of Gull rock. 
The course given leads 375 yards eastward of Bull rock, which 
is visible, and northeastward of the chain of islets off the north¬ 
eastern side of the island of Ledges. To anchor in Frigate har¬ 
bor stand in between the northern of the Green islands, the name 
of the chain of larger islands eastward of island of Ledges, and 
Pigeon islet, the rocky islet 19 feet high at the northern end of 
the chain; large vessels, however, must pass northward of Pigeon islet, 
avoiding the shoal which extends nearly 200 yards northward of it, 
and anchor as convenient. 

With strong southwesterly winds a heavy swell rolls in between 
Gull and Bull rocks, and Blanc Sablon bay then affords better shelter 
and anchorage easier of access. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Bradore bay, at lOh. 
35m.; springs rise 4f feet, neaps 2f feet; neaps range If feet. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Bradore bay. 

The land separating Belles Amours bay, Middle bay, and Five 
Leagues harbor, all just to the westward of Bradore bay, is very 
remarkable. Low granite country, on which are ridges of bowlders, 
with coarse grass and moss, extends several miles inland to the range 
of steep granite hills, 400 feet to 500 feet high, which trends westward 
from the head of Bradore bay. This low country has a green and 
alluvial appearance from the sea, and not until a near approach is it 
seen to be rock and bowlders. 

Belles Amours point, about 6J miles westward of the island of 
Ledges, is a mound of bare granite, 60 to 70 feet high, at the south- 


50918—08-22 


338 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


eastern end of the low peninsula separating Belles Amours harbor 
from Middle bay. 

Belles Amours harbor. —Stony point, low and green, and Flat 
rocks, 1£ miles southeastward of it, form the eastern side of Belles 
Amours bay, and the land from Belles Amours point to Harbor point, 
trending north, forms its western side. Belles Amours harbor, about 
\ mile long, northeast and southwest, and £ mile broad, with general 
depths of 4J to 7 fathoms, lies within and to the southwestward of 
Harbor point, and is quite landlocked. 

Entrance—Shoals. —A rocky patch with 13 feet least water, which 
sometimes breaks, lies nearly midway between Belles Amours point 
and Flat rocks, and it divides the entrance of Belles Amours bay into 
Eastern and Western passages. In Western passage, between the 
patch and the point, there are some patches with 3£ fathoms, which is 
as much water as can be counted on in that channel. 

Niobe shoal, on which there is a depth of 11 feet, lies about 450 
yards southwestward of Flat rocks on the eastern side of Eastern 
passage. 

The ground is foul and the soundings are extremely irregular in 
Eastern passage. 

Harbor point, about 1£ miles north of Belles Amours point, rises 
to a bare granite hill about 150 feet high, with several beacons of 
stones upon it. Similar beacons are erected upon almost every hill, 
and are said to be for the guidance of travelers in winter. The coast 
of the promontory between Belles Amours and Harbor points is 
bordered with large bowlders, and shoal water extends 300 yards off 
it; within it is a large and shallow pond. The northwestern side of 
Harbor point is sand, extending, together with a flat which dries at 
low water, partly across the inner entrance of the harbor. The nar¬ 
rowest part of the entrance of the harbor, between this flat and the 
high and bold rocky land to the northward, is 200 yards wide, with 
6 fathoms water in it, mud bottom. At about 160 yards northward 
of Harbor point there is a small rock always above water; at 200 
yards farther in the same direction lies another small rock, which 
dries at low water. There is no passage, except for small craft, be¬ 
tween these rocks and Harbor point. The entrance channel passes 
northward and westward round these rocks, and then southwestward 
between them and the land to the northward. 

On the eastern side of the entrance to Belles Amours bay shoal 
water and large stones extend from Stony point northward to the 
point of North cove, which is suitable only for boats. 

Directions. —To enter Belles Amours harbor by Eastern passage, 
approach steering for Harbor point bearing about 315° so as to pass 
\ mile westward of Flat rocks. Continue this course, keeping Harbor 


BELLES AMOURS HARBOR. 


339 


point open westward of the western side of Stony point, and not 
approaching the western side of Stony point nearer than 300 yards. 
When about 200 yards from the eastern side of Harbor point steer 
327° till abreast of the rock above water off the point, when haul a 
little westward, and bring the eastern side of Harbor point and Pond 
point (see chart) in line. Keep this mark on astern until Mark 
point, on the northwestern side of the harbor, comes in line with Peak 
point, a remarkable rocky point in Middle bay, seen over the low land 
at the head of the harbor, and bearing 231°, when turn sharp to the 
westward, keeping at a distance of less than 200 yards from the high 
northwestern shore until well within the sandy spit, when haul to the 
southward, and anchor as convenient in 5 to 7 fathoms, mud. 

From the westward in approaching Belles Amours point observe 
the clearing mark for the Middle ledges, and keep Stony point well 
open of Belles Amours point. In entering by western passage, 
which is preferable with a westerly wind, pass Belles Amours point 
at a distance of 400 yards and keep at least 400 yards off the western 
shore of the bay, until past Pond point; then haul in gradually 
to within 200 yards of Harbor point, and proceed as before directed. 
In a sailing vessel, when the marks come on for hauling westward 
into the harbor, put the helm down and shoot the vessel in as far 
as she w T ill go, let go the anchor, and warp in to the anchorage; 
a vessel can sail in only with easterly and southerly winds. The 
ground is good for anchoring outside Harbor point, but not outside 
Stony point. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Belles Amours point 
at 9h. 0m.; springs rise 4J feet, neaps 2J feet. 

Water can be taken from streams running into the western corner 
of Belles Amours harbor, and also from a considerable stream flow¬ 
ing into the head of North cove, where there are a few trees. Wood 
for fuel is scarce in this locality. 

Middle point. —From Belles Amours point the southern coast of 
the peninsula of low land separating Belles Amours harbor and 
Middle bay trends west-southwestward 1^ miles to Middle point, 
which has several rocks off it within the distance of 200 yards. 

Middle ledges lie within about 1,400 yards southeastward of 
Middle point; several of them dry at low water, but the outer ledge, 
which is 1,200 yards offshore, has 15 feet least water on it. There 
is no safe passage inside the ledges. Stony point open of Belles 
Amours point, bearing 33°, leads southward of them. 

Middle bay is a fine open roadstead, clear of detached dangers, 
and extending northward 2 miles, with a width of over 1 mile. For 
1 mile within the entrance shoal water extends in places about 300 
yards off both sides, but farther in it is quite bold, excepting in the 


340 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


coves. The depth of water in the bay is generally 4 to 13 fathoms, 
sand; but a shoal with 3 fathoms water on it lies 300 yards south¬ 
ward of the northern entrance point of West cove. 

The usual anchorage in Middle bay, in easterly winds, is off 
Isthmus cove, in 10 fathoms, sand, and in westerly winds off West 
cove. It may be necessary to shift berth with a change of wind. 
There are no islands off this bay, and as it is sufficiently roomy for 
large ships to beat in and out, it affords a very convenient occasional 
stopping place, and it is the only open roadstead on this coast. 

Middle ledges and Barrier reefs are the only dangers in the way 
of vessels approaching Middle bay either from the eastward or the 
westward. 

Shallop cove, on the eastern side of Middle bay, f mile northward 
of Middle point, is sheltered by three small islets close to the shore, 
but is suitable only for boats. 

Peak Point promontory, which juts about 800 yards into the 
head of the bay, is high and composed of granite. Its southern end 
is forked, Peak point, the southeastern part, being a ragged, isolated 
mound or peak; off the western side at the distance of 100 yards 
there is a large rock above water. 

Isthmus cove, east-southeastward of Peak point, has a depth of 3 
fathoms, mud bottom. The cove is small, but two or three fishing 
vessels occasionally moor in it, under a reef which extends from the 
southern side of the cove northwestward toward Peak point. The 
reef affords indifferent shelter from southwesterly winds, which 
blow right in and cause a heavy sea. The entrance between the reef 
and Peak point is only 140 yards wide; and there is about the same 
space between the reef and the shore to the eastward. 

To enter Isthmus cove, keep Peak point close aboard, and when 
100 yards past it to the eastward, haul sharp round to the southward 
between the reef and the shore. The part of the cove which runs in 
northward of Peak point is shoal. From this cove to Belles Amours 
harbor, across the low isthmus, the distance is less than mile. 

West cove is on the western side of Middle bay 1 mile within the 
entrance. Its head is separated by a low and swampy isthmus from 
Five Leagues harbor. The anchorage with westerly winds is in 4 
fathoms off the mouth of the cove, avoiding the 3 fathoms shoal. 

Water can be taken from streams flowing into Isthmus cote and 
also the head of Middle bay, where are a few small trees. 

Five Leagues point, westward 1J miles from Middle point, is the 
southern end of a low peninsula, about 1 mile in length and ■£ mile 
broad, which separates Five Leagues harbor from Middle bay. On 
this peninsula, f mile northward from the point, there is a remarkable 


FIVE LEAGUES HARBOR. 


341 


isolated and precipitous hill nearly 200 feet high, which is a good 
mark for Five Leagues harbor from the westward. 

Leagues reef, partly above water, extends 4 mile southward from 
Five Leagues point. 

Barrier reefs. —The northeastern end of these reefs lies westward 
nearly ^ mile from Five Leagues point, and the reefs extend south- 
westward about 1J miles. They are in two portions, with a channel 
1 mile wide between them, but this channel is difficult, as the reefs 
overlap. Parts of the reefs are dry at low water and the sea almost 
always breaks on them. Belles Amours and Ledge points in line, 
bearing 64°, lead 1 mile southeastward of Barrier reefs. 

Five Leagues harbor, situated £ mile northwestward of Five 
Leagues point, is 1 mile deep, with 2£ fathoms water, but is not suit¬ 
able for vessels of over 100 tons. Two small rocks, which just cover 
at high water, lie west-southwestward of the southern entrance point 
of the harbor, which is a rocky islet connected to the shore at low 
water; the outer of these rocks is 320 yards from the point. A con¬ 
siderable swell comes in with southwesterly winds, and, but for the 
indifferent shelter afforded by Barrier reefs off its mouth, vessels 
could not lie in the harbor. There are two channels, each about 600 
yards wide, leading in; one from the southward through Eastern 
entrance, between the reefs and Five Leagues point; and one, from 
the westward, through Western entrance, between the reefs and the 
shore to the northwestward. 

Directions.— Using Eastern entrance, steer about 0°, passing 200 
yards south westward of Five Leagues point and its reef. Leave 
the two rocks off South point to the northeastward, passing be¬ 
tween them and the western point of the harbor, where the channel 
is 350 yards wide. When past these rocks, haul northeastward into 
the harbor, passing midway between South point and a large rock 
above water, 281°, 300 yards from the point. Anchor in the middle, 
200 yards within the entrance; for although there is water enough 
nearly to the head of the cove, and the anchorage is more secure far¬ 
ther in, yet the harbor becomes so narrow that vessels must be moored 
head and stern, and it requires local knowledge. 

Using Western entrance, from westward of Barrier reefs, bring the 
western entrance point of the harbor to bear 45°, and steer for it. 
When within the western Barrier reefs, there are two ledges, just 
under water, and several small islets on the mainland side. Leave the 
ledges, which can usually be seen, nearly J mile to the northwestward, 
and leave Bis islet, which is bold and is £ mile offshore, about 1 
mile from the entrance of the harbor and opposite the middle of the 
Barrier reefs, about 200 yards to the northwestward. Pass the west¬ 
ern point of the harbor close-to and continue as above directed. 


342 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Salmon bay.—Salmon islet bears 248°, 3f miles from Five 
Leagues point, and lies close to the southeastern side of Caribou 
island; shoal water and rocks surround the islet and extend nearly 
800 yards eastward of the island. Caribou island is 220 feet high, but 
from seaward it can not be distinguished from the mainland. Be¬ 
tween Caribou island and the mainland eastward of it is the eastern 
entrance to Salmon bay, 200 yards wide, but only 6 feet deep at low 
water; the other entrance to this bay, less than 200 yards wide, with a 
least depth of about 5 fathoms, is from Bonne Esperance bay to the 
northward of Caribou island. There are two houses just within the 
eastern entrance of Salmon bay, on the mainland side. 

There is plenty of water in the bay, which runs northward some 
2J miles. The chart is the only guide. 

Caution.—Soundings in moderate depths of water extend suffi¬ 
ciently far off the shore between Greenly island and Salmon bay to 
give warning of approach to the land. 

Eskimo (Esquimaux) islands commence at Salmon islet and 
continue westward 14 miles. These islands are of all shapes, sizes, and 
heights under 200 feet, and are named in order westward Eskimo 
(Esquimaux), Old Fort, and Dog islands. They are all bare of trees, 
excepting some that are near the mainland. Many small rocks and 
ledges lie around and within about 1J miles seaward of the islands. 
To attempt to describe all these islands and the channels between them 
would be useless, and the description would be well nigh impossible. 
The chart is the best guide, and only the principal shoals and chan¬ 
nels, with Bonne Esperance harbor, which is the best harbor in this 
locality, are briefly described herein. 

Whale island, the southern of all these islands, is about f mile 
long, north and south, and about J mile broad. It shows as the ex¬ 
treme to vessels close in to the coast, either to the eastward or the 
westward. 

Beacon.—The highest part of the island, which is a round hill 
near its middle, does not exceed 100 feet in height, and on it there is a 
white steel tripod beacon, 30 feet high, with slatwork sides. 

The island is a good mark for vessels bound to Bonne Esperance 
harbor. 

Whale reef, composed of rocks above and under water, extends 600 
yards off the southern point of Whale island; shoal water borders the 
northern point of the island only to the distance of about 140 yards. 

Southwest ledge, with 9 feet water, lies 226°, 700 yards from the 
southern point of Whale island. There are several rocks dry at low 
water, lying 200 yards off the eastern side of the same point. 

Whale patch, 101°, 1,200 yards from the northern point of Whale 
island, has a depth of 4 fathoms over it. 


BONNE ESPERANCE BAY AND HARBOR. 


343 


Bonne Esperance bay and harbor.—The southern point of 
Whale island bears 222°, 4^ miles from Salmon islet; and the islands 
which form Bonne Esperance bay and harbor lie northward of this 
line. The largest of these islands, being very steep, and composed of 
bare granite, look much higher than they really are, an effect that is 
exaggerated by the fact that the islands westward of them are much 
lower. There are beacons made of piles of stones upon almost every 
summit. 

The whole of Bonne Esperance bay forms an excellent harbor in 
which there is room for many vessels of large size, in general depths 
of 12 to 26 fathoms, mud. The harbor itself is a bight, about 600 
yards across each way, situated between Bonne Esperance and Grand 
islands. The main channel leading to the bay is between Goddard 
and Beacon islets. 

Goddard islet is the western of two low islets joined by a reef to the 
southwestern part of Caribou island. Bold rock at the end of a reef 
extending 275 yards southward of the southern point of Goddard 
islet is small, always above water, and quite bold. Goddard rock. 700 
yards from the same point, is also small, and dries at low water. The 
southern end of Red Head island (see chart) open southward of Bea¬ 
con islet, 242°, leads southeastward of Goddard rock. 

Beacon islet, which is low, about 250 yards long, and with a pile of 
stones on its summit, lies 221°, nearly 1 mile, from Goddard islet. 
Tail islet lies 400 yards southward, and Link and another low islet 
northward of Beacon islet. Red Head island lies f mile southwest - 
ward of Beacon islet. Fish islet, a large low rock, lies between Red 
Head and Whale islands. 

Northward of Red Head island are Chain and Bonne Esperance 
islands, the former being in two parts, joined by a narrow stony isth¬ 
mus, and the latter being 150 feet high and f mile long. Lion island 
is i mile northeastward of Bonne Esperance island; westward of 
Lion island there is a low islet and a narrow channel with 12 feet 
water between the islet and Bonne Esperance island; 100 yards east¬ 
ward of Lion island lies Whelp rock, always above water. 

The main channel, which passes between this rock on the west 
and Goddard and Caribou islands on the east, is 600 yards wide, with 
10 to 13 fathoms water, over rock, sand, and mud bottom. 

Shoals.—Middle patch, bearing 146°, 1,300 yards from Beacon 
islet, has a depth of 4 fathoms over it. There is foul and 
rocky ground, with depths of 5 to 10 fathoms between Middle and 
Whale patches, to clear which, in approaching the harbor from the 
westward, do not reduce the depth to less than 10 fathoms, until the 
leading marks for hauling into the harbor come on. 


344 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Watch rock, £ mile northeastward of Beacon islet, is small and 
above water; Breaking ledge, J mile, 327° from Watch rock, just 
covers at high water. 

Directions—Main channel.—The prevailing winds are favorable 
for entering Bonne Esperance harbor. 

From the eastward with an easterly wind steer toward Caribou 
island, and when mile southward of the island stand southwestward 
with the southern end of Red Head island open southward of Beacon 
islet 242°, to clear Goddard rock. The depth on the range is about 9 
fathoms at low water, until past the rock, when it deepens suddenly 
to 15 fo 19 fathoms in the entrance to the channel; keep the lead 
going. 

When in the entrance, haul in and bring Whelp rock in line with 
the western side of House island, 337°; this island is close under the 
mainland about 1 mile northward of Lion island, and is low, with a 
house on it, but it is not easily seen. Run in upon this range or bear¬ 
ing until past Bold rock, when haul a little to the eastward, and give 
Whelp rock a berth of 200 yards. "When inside of this rock bear up 
to 259° and pass between Bonne Esperance and Anchor islands into 
the harbor, which is 600 yards wide between Bonne Esperance and 
Grand islands, with a depth of 12 to 16 fathoms, over mud bottom. 
In the passage between Bonne Esperance and Anchor islands, w T hich 
is 400 j^ards in width, the depth is not less than 5 fathoms, except 
within 100 yards from either side. 

From the westward with a westerly wind, pass J mile southward of 
Whale island and steer about 50°, avoiding Whale and Middle patches, 
until Whelp rock and the western side of House island are in line 
bearing 337°; then haul in upon that range or bearing and proceed 
as before, except that if the wind is not free enough to allow the pas¬ 
sage between Bonne Esperance and Anchor islands being used, pro¬ 
ceed around Anchor island, and do not close Whelp rock in with the 
southwestern point of Goddard island until past Anchor reef. This 
reef, which covers at high water, lies nearly 400 yards northeastward 
of Anchor island, and the above range leads 100 yards northeastward 
of it. When the northern end of Anchor island bears 216°, Anchor 
reef is passed; then haul to the wind, and observing that shoal water 
extends 300 yards northward of Grand island (the large and high 
island next westward of Bonne Esperance island), tack into the har¬ 
bor or anchor anywhere in the bay, completely sheltered. When 
anchoring in the bay, be cautious, because the depth of water is great 
and irregular. 

Shallop channel, between Bonne Esperance and Grand islands, 
is very narrow, and has only 2 fathoms in it at low water. It is ap¬ 
proached from either side of Whale island, passing Fish islet, and 


ESKIMO CHANNEL AND BAY. 


345 


then keeping the western sides of Red Head, Chain, and Bonne Es¬ 
perance islands close aboard into the harbor. 

Eskimo (Esquimaux) channel leads direct to the eastern en¬ 
trance of Eskimo bay, and is approached through Whale channel, 
between Whale and Tent islands, which lie just to the westward. 
Whale channel is nearly f mile wide, and has depths between 10 and 
18 fathoms in it. The only covered shoal in it is Southwest ledge, 
for the rocks, which lie 4 mile southward of Tent island, are partly 
above water. 

The course through the middle of Whale channel, and across the 
deep, and open space northward of it, to the entrance of Eskimo chan¬ 
nel, is 5°. Eskimo channel is between Grand and Fair islands on the 
east, and Spit and Stone islands on the west; the narrowest part, 
between Fair and Stone islands, is 150 yards wide, with a least depth 
of 5 fathoms. Pass through the channel and steer 349° till close to 
the equally narrow entrance of Eskimo bay; then haul to the east¬ 
ward through Northwest channel into Bonne Esperance bay, keeping 
within 200 yards of the mainland, to avoid the shoal which extends 
from Fair island fully halfway across the channel. Steer for the 
southern end of the small and high Star island, passing close south- 
westward of it, and continue toward Anchor island till clear of the 
shoal which extends 400 yards northeastward of Grand island, when 
haul southward into the harbor. Eskimo channel might be practi¬ 
cable for steamers of moderate size, but it is too narrow for sailing 
vessels, excepting small craft. 

West channel, between Spit and Stone islands on the east and 
Eskimo island proper on the west, is suitable only for small vessels, 
because a 2 fathoms bar extends between Stone island and the western 
entrance point of the eastern entrance to Eskimo bay. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Bonne Esperance har¬ 
bor at 9h. 15m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 2J feet. 

Water and wood are abundant on the mainland, but not on the 
islands. 

Population. —There were 903 residents in Bonne Esperance harbor 
and its locality in'1901. 

Eskimo bay. —Eskimo island lies in the entrance of Eskimo bay. 
There are many islands outside it and from seaward it can not be 
distinguished from the mainland. 

The eastern entrance to Eskimo bay is a very narrow channel 
between the island and the mainland to the eastward. This channel 
continues northward for 1^ miles, and then opens into a wide space 
with two islets in it. In the northeastern part of this space is the 
entrance of Eskimo or St. Paul river, and on a sandy point, backed 
with spruce trees, on the western side of the river, about 2J miles 


346 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 

from Eskimo island, there are a house and trading post. The boats 
of the Gulnare ascended the river for 5 miles above the house, passing 
through two lakes, in the upper of which there are 26 fathoms water. 
These lakes are separated by shallow and narrow channels. The 
river, which is navigated by canoes for many miles inland, abounds 
with salmon. 

Only small vessels can pass through the eastern entrance to Eskimo 
bay; there is water enough for larger vessels in the western entrance, 
where there are numerous islands, but the navigation is intricate, 
and the chart is the only guide. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at the trading post. 

Channel. —There is a channel with 3 fathoms water in its shallow¬ 
est part, and in general with a great depth of water, between Dog 
islands and the main, through into Bonne Esperance bay; but the 
chart is the only guide. 

Fort rocks—Old Fort bay.—The southern Fort rock lies 252°, 
4 miles from the southern point of Whale island, and in this distance 
there is no navigable channel between the islands, excepting Whale 
channel. Fort rocks are a number of low rocks extending about 1 
mile southward of Old Fort island, which is of moderate height. 
From this island a number of smaller islands extend northward 
toward Eskimo bay; from Old Fort island a number of steep and 
high islands also extend northwestward, with deep but intricate 
channels between them, leading to Old Fort bay. 

Old Fort channel is a wide opening through the outer islands, and 
the only navigable one through the islands westward of Old Fort 
island, although there is a passage between these islands and the 
mainland. Old Fort channel leads in from sea between Fort rocks 
and Mermot islet, and farther in between Old Fort island and Chan¬ 
nel island, with Crumb island to the northeastward. Within the 
islands is a wide and open space, in the northeastern part of which is 
the mouth of Old Fort bay, which runs northeastward about 2 miles, 
with deep water to its head. 

From midway between Fort rocks and Mermot* islet the course in 
through Old Fort channel is about 6°, with deep water the whole 
way. Mermot islet, 1J miles westward of the southern Fort rock, is 
low, with a ledge extending J mile southward of it. In some places 
between the islands there is more than 50 fathoms water; and the 
nearer the main the fewer ledges. 

Dog islands. —Northwestward of Mermot islet lie Eider islands, 
and westward of them are Dog islands, which are surrounded by 
rocks and innumerable ledges. The southeastern of these rocks lies 
231°, lj miles from Mermot islet. The southwestern Dog islands are 


PORPOISE ROCKS-LOBSTER BAY. 


347 


very low, but those next the main, although small, are of considerable 
elevation. There is good anchorage between the islands and the 
main, but it can be reached easily only by running down with a west¬ 
erly wind from Shekatika (Shecatica) island close along the main¬ 
land and in the deep-water channel between the mainland and the 
scattered rocks and ledges lying off it. 

The north shore of the gulf from Dog islands to Shekatika island 
is composed of steep granite hills, not exceeding 300 feet in height, 
with deep water close to the land. 

Porpoise rocks are three small black rocks above water, lying 4 
miles westward of the outer Dog island. The two northern rocks are 
close together; the third rock is about 800 yards southward of them 
and 1J miles offshore. A sunken rock lies i mile, 236°, of the north¬ 
ern rock, and a shoal with 3^ fathoms water over it lies 42°, f mile 
from the southern rock. 

The passage between Dog islands and Porpoise rocks might be used 
in clear weather, when shoal water is readily seen, and when the sea 
is heavy.enough to break upon the ledges, but it is safer to pass inside 
Porpoise rocks and along the land where there are no shoals. 

Rocky bay.— The entrance to this bay is about 302°, 1} miles 
from the southern Porpoise rock, whence the bay extends, between 
steep and high rocky shores, north-northeastward If miles, with a 
width of about 250 yards. Its entrance has a depth of 39 fathoms, 
but the depth soon diminishes to 16 fathoms, and then decreases 
gradually to the head of the bay. One mile within the entrance, 
on the southeastern side, there is a house and fish stage at a little 
cove, in which small vessels anchor in 5 fathoms, mud, well sheltered 
from all winds. A small stream enters the head of this bay. 

Rock. —There is a rock with 1J fathoms water over it in the ap¬ 
proach to Rocky bay; it is of small extent, and has depths of from 
12 to 14 fathoms at a distance of 30 yards around it. The rock is 
situated on the following bearings: Boulet islet, 258°, distant 2.7 
miles; Rocky bay, eastern entrance point, 326°. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Rocky bay. 

Lobster bay, the entrance to which is about 1 mile westward of 
Rocky bay entrance, is an inlet extending, between high and steep 
rocky shores, northward 4 miles, with a width of 375 to 500 yards. 
In the entrance to the bay there is a depth of 35 fathoms water, which 
decreases to 14 fathoms half way up, above which there is anchorage 
to its head, with mud bottom, but completely open to southerly winds. 
Several very small streams enter the head of the inlet. Two small 
islets, close off the eastern entrance point of Lobster bay, are left on 
the starboard hand, entering. 

There is nothing in the way in running up either of these bays. 


348 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE.' 


The Boulet, 259°, 3J miles from the southern Porpoise rock, is 
a smooth round islet 250 yards across, green at the top, and about 
70 feet in height. Crab island lies \ mile west-northwestward of it, 
and Four rocks, within which is Inner islet, are 3 miles west-south- 
westward. These are the only islets along the coast between the 
Boulet and Shekatika island; but there are many rocks and ledges 
between them, and also off the Boulet, to seaward. The Boulet will 
serve to locate approximately a vessel off the coast. 

Peril rock, 168°, 1.4 miles from the Boulet, is very small, dries 
at half tide, and it is the outer shoal and greatest danger off this coast; 
the sea almost always breaks upon it, and also upon the others which 
lie between it and Four rocks. The hand lead gives no warning of 
approach to these rocks. 

Napetepee bay, the entrance to which is -J mile northward of 
Inner islet, is a straight and narrow Inlet, extending, between high 
and rocky shores, northward 4^ miles. In approaching this bay, 
Four rocks and Inner islet are left to the eastward. 

In entering Napetepee bay pass 200 yards westward of some rocks 
above water, lying just within the mouth of the bay. At about 600 
yards northward of these rocks the bay is 240 yards wide, with high 
and precipitous shores, especially on the western side. At 1J miles 
within the entrance there is a small islet. Pass westward of this islet, 
and then keep the eastern shore close aboard until through the nar¬ 
rows, which at -J mile farther in are only 160 yards wide, but the bay 
soon expands again to 600 yards. The depth of water decreases from 
30 fathoms in the entrance to 7 fathoms in the narrows, and then in¬ 
creases to 27 fathoms, with mud bottom. The bay affords no shelter 
from southerly winds, but much sea can not set into so narrow a place. 
Several small streams flow into this bay; the principal one being on the 
eastern side, f mile from its head, and it is the outlet of a considerable 
lake, which can be easily entered by boats only at high water. A 
river abounding with salmon flows into this lake. 

Directions.— Rocky, Lobster, and Napetepee bays have no rocks in 
them, but being narrow, with deep water, they are by no means de¬ 
sirable places for vessels to go into. A sailing vessel can not get out 
of them without a northerly wind, which seldom occurs in summer. 
Lobster and Rocky bays are preferable to Napetepee bay, and the 
best wajf to approach them is from the westward with a westerly 
wind, passing between Shekatika island and Four rocks, and then 
eastward close along the mainland, between it and Inner islet, Crab 
island, and the Boulet. 

The channel between these islets and the mainland is not less than 
600 yards wide, free from danger, and is 33 to 48 fathoms deep, mud 
bottom. 


MISTANOQUE BAY AND HARBOR. 


349 


Shekatika (Shecatica) island, the southern part of which lies 
282°, a little over 1 mile from Four rocks, is J mile long north-north¬ 
west and south-southeast, 200 to TOO yards wide, and 150 feet high. 

Mistanoque island, westward of Shekatika island, and separated 
from it by an unnavigable channel 300 yards wide, is nearly 1J miles 
long, parallel to the coast, 400 to 1,400 yards wide, broken into 
coves on the outside, and in the highest part is 120 feet above the 
sea. 

These islands are close to the mainland and difficult to make out 
from seaward, but their positions may be known by the Boulet, 
Napetepee bay opening, and Shag rock. 

Mistanoque bay, directly inside Mistanoque island, is about 300 
yards wide, with a depth of 23 fathoms in the entrance, and it ex¬ 
tends northward 3.1 miles, with a breadth of 550 yards. The depth 
in the lower part of this bay is from 27 fathoms in the middle to IT 
fathoms at the sides close to the rocks; within 800 yards of its head, 
the depth decreases to 12 and 4 fathoms, and affords convenient 
anchorage. The bottom is mud throughout, and there are no shoals. 
Wood and water are plentiful. 

Mistanoque harbor is a small cove on the northern side of Mis¬ 
tanoque island, situated directly opposite the mouth of the bay, in 
which the depth is 15 to 20 fathoms, mud. There is, however, an¬ 
chorage in less water, a short distance eastward, between the island 
and the eastern point of the bay, where the depth is 12 fathoms, but 
the channel is there only 160 yards wide. It is necessary to moor. 

Mistanoque harbor, though small and with inconveniently deep 
water, is one of the few ports on this coast suitable for moderate¬ 
sized vessels. The absence of shoals in its approach and the easy 
access in either of the prevailing winds, in consequence of its having 
two entrances, are great advantages over the other small harbors 
to the westward. 

Enter island lies nearly \ mile southwestward of Mistanoque 
island, and Diver island, from which a reef of rocks extends about 
300 yards southward, is 400 yards further west; both these islands 
are low. At 800 yards westward of them, with a navigable passage 
between, is a group of small islands. 

Directions. —The best channel is South passage, between Enter 
island and Mistanoque island, being 800 yards wide, with upward 
of 40 fathoms water in it, and bold to the rocks on either side. On 
approaching West passage of Mistanoque harbor, which is about 
150 yards wide, with 9 fathoms water in it, give the northwestern 
point of Mistanoque island a berth of about 100 yards and keep well 
over to the mainland side of the entrance; but once in this narrow 
channel, keep Mistanoque island aboard, because shoal water extends 
60 yards off the eastern part of the northern side of the passage. 


350 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


The approach to East passage, between Shekatika island and Four 
rocks, which are quite bold, is more than 1 mile wide, with very deep 
water; but the passage itself, between Shekatika and Mistanoque 
islands and the mainland, is suitable only for small vessels, being in 
places only 60 yards wide and having only 3 fathoms water. Give 
the northeastern point of Shekatika island a berth of 200 yards until 
the channel between it and the main opens, bearing 258°, for rocks 
extend 120 yards off that point. Pass the northern point of She¬ 
katika island (on which there is the hut of a seal fisherman) at a 
distance of about 25 yards, for there is shoal water across a very 
small bay of the main opposite to it; the channel here is only 60 
yards wide, with a depth of 3 fathoms. Thence continue westward 
through the middle of the passage. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Mistanoque harbor, 
at lOh. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Caution—Survey. —Captain Bayfield’s survey, from the strait of 
Belle Isle westward, ended at Mistanoque harbor, inclusive, and re¬ 
commenced again at Great Mekattina island. The intermediate 
coast was surveyed in 1768 by Lieut. Michael Lane, B. N., and 
although his survey does not possess exactness, yet it is sufficiently 
correct for the ordinary purposes of navigation. Still, however, 
navigation near the land between Mistanoque harbor and Great 
Mekattina island requires caution, as the survey is incomplete. 

All of this coast is now being resurveyed, and the changes will be 
published when obtained. 

The coast between Mistanoque island and cape Mekattina 225°, 
43 miles, is broken into considerable bays and inlets, in which are 
several large islands of moderate height, and partly covered with 
moss. Many smaller islands, islets, and rocks are interspersed, and 
there are outlying small islets, rocks, or ledges, in groups, or scat¬ 
tered here and there to seaward. Within the islands, in most of the 
channels and wide spaces between them, as well as in the bays of the 
mainland, there is a great depth of water, often exceeding 30 fathoms, 
and amounting in one or two places to 60 fathoms. In these deep 
water channels and bays, which are intricate, small rocks are not 
nearly so numerous as they are outside, and are for the most part 
above water. Both the mainland and islands are almost everywhere 
quite bold, and many parts of the channels between and among the 
islands and rocks are navigable by large ships to anchorage some 15 
miles in from the outer rocks. The entrances from sea to these chan¬ 
nels and bays, through the outer islets and rocks, are in general in¬ 
tricate, and had best not be attempted except by those having local 
knowledge. 

Shekatika bay lies between Mistanoque island and Cumberland 
island, which is about 2f miles to the westward. It extends north- 


SHAG ISLAND—SANDY HARBOR. 


351 


ward some 7 to 8 miles, and has many islands, branches, and narrow 
crooked passages, which are too intricate to be navigable without 
local knowledge. 

From Shekatika bay to Ha Ha bay the islands, great and small, 
and of different heights, are so numerous and so near together that 
the mainland can not be distinguished until one is among them. 

Shag island, 225°, 54 miles from Diver island, is remarkable, 
being small and high, with a round peaked hill looking green in the 
middle. It is the best landmark for making Mistanoque from the 
westward. Many rocks lie in an easterly direction from this island, 
the outer of which is Shag rock, If miles distant from the island. 

Three rocks are about 2J miles northeastward from Shag rock and 
If miles south-southwestward from Diver islet. 

Cumberland harbor. —The entrance to this harbor is between 
Dukes island on the west and Cumberland island on the east, and 
344°, 3 miles from Shag rock. It may be recognized by a high and 
remarkable hill on the mainland bearing 327° about 10J miles from 
the entrance; this is the highest hill in the locality, and at the top 
resembles a castle, having steep cliffs like walls. The islands form¬ 
ing the harbor are of moderate height, Cumberland island, the 
eastern one, appearing as two round hills. This harbor, the best and 
easiest of access on the coast, is excellent, and has depth and room 
enough for large vessels. A small rock lies 158°, about 1,200 yards 
from the western entrance point, which is about 400 yards distant 
from the eastern entrance point. 

Directions. —In approaching Cumberland harbor pass between 
Three rocks and Shag rock, and avoid the rock southward of the 
western entrance point. When within the outer points of the harbor 
haul over to the western side, and run along it to the inner point on 
that side, bearing 310° about f mile from the outer eastern entrance 
point; then haul eastward, and anchor in 7 to 20 fathoms of water 
over good ground. 

Water is abundant on the eastern side of the harbor; wood can be 
obtained from Shekatika bay. 

Sandy harbor, on the southern side of Sandy island 299°, 2f miles 
from Shag island, is safe with good ground. 

Directions. —On approaching Sandy harbor avoid a ledge under 
water bearing 147° from Shag island, distant 1 mile, and a similar 
ledge bearing 139° nearly 1 mile from the eastern side of Egg rocks. 

A small reef with shoal water extends % mile from Shag island 
toward this ledge, leaving a deep channel between, f mile wide. The 
southwestern extreme of Dukes island, bearing 321°, leads through 
the middle of this channel. 


352 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


To enter the harbor pass eastward of Egg rocks, which bear 271°, 
1^ miles from Shag island, and close the western extreme of Dukes 
island. Pass on either side of a small rock above water that lies to 
the northwestward and toward the eastern side of the entrance of the 
harbor, and then steer 355° into the harbor, the only rocks being vis¬ 
ible. When through the entrance channel, which is about 400 yards 
wide, haul westward and anchor in 5 to 6 fathoms. 

Water is plentiful, but no wood can be obtained in Sandy harbor. 

Port St. Augustine has a very narrow and intricate entrance and 
is fit only for small craft. The approach to the port is westward of 
St. Augustine chain, which is a chain of small islets, the outer one 
being a round smooth rock, with a high black rock mile westward 
of it. Between these last rocks there is a ledge, which shows at one- 
third ebb. The passage to the port is on either side of this ledge, 
and then northward along the western side of St. Augustine chain. 
There is a seal fishing and trading post at Port St. Augustine. 

Square channel, the largest channel through the islands toward 
the mainland, lies between Shag island and the southern extreme of 
St. Augustine chain, which bears 228°, 6^ miles from Shag island. 
The channel is very intricate, and at 15 miles up it in a west-north¬ 
westerly direction is the entrance of St. Augustine river. 

St. Augustine river, a stream of considerable length, flows into 
a bay full of rocky islands; its mouth is full of shifting sand banks. 
Small craft anchor in St. Augustine harbor outside the river. The 
river is formed of two branches, the northwestern and the northeast¬ 
ern, or main river, which receives the tributary, Aux Mouches; both 
branches are navigable by flats or canoes, but the river sometimes falls 
very low in summer. At the latter end of June salmon ascend the 
main river to a distance of 80 miles above the first rapids, and a large 
number of fish visit Aux Mouches every fall for the purpose of 
spawning. There is plenty of wood on the banks of this river. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system near the junction of the branches and river. 

Eagle harbor, in Long island, can be entered only by small vessels, 
the entrances being very narrow, although there is a considerable deep 
area within. The eastern passage, between the islets which form the 
harbor and Long island, bears about 350°, 2^ miles from Fox islands, 
and is the best, but has a depth of only 3 fathoms water. This part 
of the coast is dangerous, being bordered with small, low islets and 
rocks, both above and under water, and a chart upon a large scale is 
absolutely necessary to enter Eagle harbor. The approach to it, how¬ 
ever, is on either side of Fox islands, which are situated southwest- 
ward about 12 miles from St. Augustine chain. 


HA HA BAY-GREAT MEKATTINA ISLAND. 353 

Ha Ha bay. —Seal point, about 4f miles northwestward of Boule 
islet, which lies close oft' the northern end of Great Mekattina (Mecat- 
tina) island, is the western entrance point of Ha Ha bay. The islands 
to the eastward contract the best channel into this bay to the breadth 
of about 4 mile, but there is plenty of water, and all rocks show above 
water. This channel is close along the mainland, between Seal point 
and Round islet, leaving all the islets and rocks to the eastward. The 
bay extends northward about 8 miles, with a depth of water of 64 
fathoms in one place, and there are many good anchorages. 

Fish harbor, situated northwestward 44 miles from Boule islet, 
is a small cove of the mainland running in to the southwestward, 
with Wood islet, which is covered with wood, lying off the entrance. 
There is a passage on either side of Wood islet, but the northern is the 
best, as there is a ledge, partly above water, in the bay southward of 
the island, and a rock, with 2 feet least water on it, lying 220° nearly 
4 mile from the eastern point of Wood islet, the other rocks in 
the approach to this harbor being above water. In the harbor there 
are 7 or 8 fathoms, with good holding ground; it is, however, suitable 
only for small vessels, which have room to moor. 

Water and wood are obtainable. 

Great Mekattina (Mecattina) island, about 3J miles long, 
north and south, and about 3 miles wide, is distant 2J miles from Red 
point, the nearest part of the mainland to the westward. The central 
and highest part of the island rises about 500 feet above the sea; the 
hills, which are granite, are fissured in a remarkable manner by empty 
basaltic dikes traversing the island, from one side to the other, north 
and south. Round head, the southwestern end of the island, is a 
high peninsula connected by a 1ow t isthmus to the island. 

Boule islet is high, round, and nearly joined to the northwestern 
point of Great Mekattina island. A small rock above water lies close 
off its western end, and at 800 yards farther westward is a patch 
of rocks with about 4 fathoms least water. An islet and small rock 
lie off the southeastern point of the island at distances of 4 and 1 mile, 
respectively. Treble Hill island lies 73°, 3 miles from Bluff head, 
the high northern point of the island: Flat island lies 121°, 2J miles 
from its southern point; and the two Murr islets, w T hich are about 4 
mile apart, of considerable height, flat at the top, and precipitous all 
around, lie 191° about 34 miles from the same point. Treble Hill 
and Flat islands are bold all around, and so also are Murr islets, 
which swarm with sea fowl. Murr rocks are two small and low rocks 
above water, lying 124° about | mile from the southern Murr islet. 
A ledge, on which the sea generally breaks, lies 20° nearly | mile 
from the eastern Murr rock. 

50918—08-23 


354 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Beacon. —A white beacon, consisting of a steel tripod, 30 feet high, 
with wooden slatwork, stands on Flat island. 

Island harbor is a cove, 1 mile deep and about 400 yards wide, 
between Bluff head and Boule islet. This harbor is sheltered from 
northeasterly winds by a cluster of small islets and rocks lying off its 
mouth, on either side of which there is a safe passage. In navigating 
the eastern passage, keep Bluff head aboard; and in the western 
passage, pass between the cluster and a small solitary rock, lying 4 
mile westward of it, and 200 yards from Great Mekattina island. 
The anchorage is near the head of the cove, in 14 to 20 fathoms water, 
over good holding ground, and both wood and water may be obtained 
there. 

Gull islet lies about 267°, 2J miles from Round head, and a ledge, 
with 3 feet water over it, is situated 338° 600 yards from the islet. 
To clear this ledge keep either the mainland or the islet aboard. 

Mekattina island lies f mile southwestward of Gull islet, and 
Mutton island, which is quite bold, J mile farther southwestward; 
both these islands are close to the mainland. 

Mekattina harbor, between Mekattina island and the mainland, 
is safe but small, being about 56 yards wide in the western entrance, 
and about 130 yards wide within. A vessel of any size must moor 
head and stern, with hawsers also to the shore. The depth in the har¬ 
bor is 6 to 7 fathoms over good ground, but only 3 fathoms at low 
water can be carried in through either entrance. 

In the small bay between Mutton and Mekattina islands, wherein 
is the western entrance, there is no anchorage as the water is deep; 
but there is no danger and it is necessary only to keep in mid-channel 
to pass safely through. 

The mainland directly within Mekattina harbor rises about 700 feet 
above the sea, and is the highest part of what is named the High land 
of Mekattina. 

Directions. —In the narrow western entrance into Mekattina har¬ 
bor, keep in the middle. 

The eastern entrance is rendered difficult by a reef of rocks under 
water running northward across it from the northern part of the 
island, and this entrance should be attempted only with local knowl¬ 
edge. In fine weather there is anchorage outside, between the north¬ 
eastern end of the island and the main, and a boat can then be sent in 
to examine the channel. 

For the eastern entrance, from the northeastern point of Mekattina 
island steer about 315° to the mainland, and keep it close aboard 
until the western point of the island is in line with the mainland 
point at the eastern entrance; the latter point is the southern point of 
Dead cove, which is small, open to the eastward, and immediately 


PORTAGE BAY AND HARBOR. 


355 


northwestward of the eastern entrance to the harbor. Keep this range 
on until the northwestern extreme of the island and the northwestern 
extreme of Gull islet are in line. Being then within the reef, haul 
southward, toward the island, to avoid a ledge which stretches off 
the southeastern point of Dead cove. When close to the island steer 
southwestward into the harbor. 

Caution. —These directions may be useful to small vessels in light 
winds, smooth sea, and fine weather; but under any circumstances the 
slightest mistake or want of care on the part of the helmsman would 
place a vessel on shore, for the channel is so narrow that there is 
scarcely room for a vessel to take the turns which are required. Great 
caution is necessary as the whole of the locality has not been properly 
examined. 

Water and wood can be obtained in Mekattina harbor. 

Portage bay, the entrance to which is about \ mile westward of 
Mutton island, extends about 1J miles northwestward, between steep 
and high granite hills which are traversed by large basaltic dikes. 
A rapid river flows into the head of the bay. The deep water an¬ 
chorage space extends only about 400 yards within the entrance, 
but there is a snug cove on the eastern side for small vessels. 

Shoals. —A ledge with 15 feet least water over it lies about 154°, 
800 yards from the southwestern end of Mutton island; a similar 
ledge lies 22°, £ mile from the southern Seal rock, which is situated 
near the mainland f mile northward of cape Mekattina. 

Shoal water extends 200 yards eastward of Seal rocks. 

Portage harbor is within a small and moderately high islet in the 
mouth and toward the eastern side of Portage bay. In this harbor 
a vessel of considerable size might find shelter in time of need, al¬ 
though it is inconveniently small. 

Directions.— In approaching Portage bay, except in a vessel of 
light draft, avoid the two 15-foot ledges. The passage into Portage 
harbor, eastward of the islet, has a depth of 2 fathoms water in it, 
and is so narrow as to be available only for very small vessels. The 
western entrance is about 200 yards wide, and has a depth of 6 to 8 
fathoms in it; and there is deeper water within, mud bottom. By 
this entrance, haul to the eastward, when within the island, and 
anchor off the entrance of the cove, or within it, as may suit the vessel. 

Portage and Mekattina harbors are much frequented by vessels 
engaged in the whale fishery. The scenery in both is strikingly 
beautiful. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system near the head of Portage bay. 

Cape Mekattina is the southern end of a remarkable promontory 
of the mainland, which is about 3J miles in length, and of moderate 


356 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


height for some distance from its extremity, but it rises 685 feet 
above the sea about 3 miles northwestward. The granite of this 
promontory is traversed, north and south, by enormous basaltic 
dikes which cut completely through the promontory into Portage 
bay, ascending again on its eastern side, and extending beyond the 
summits of the hills. 

There is a small islet less than 200 yards from the end of the cape 
with no channel between. Entrance island, about 400 yards across, 
lies nearly 400 yards farther out. Dyke island is 400 yards farther 
southeastward, and is composed of two islands at high water, but 
there is no passage even for a boat between; it is about 1,600 yards 
long northwest and southeast, 800 yards wide, and 150 feet high. 
In Dyke island several of the basaltic dikes are empty as low down as 
the sea level, and divide the island by immense open fissures, so that 
it can be easily distinguished. Nearly 1 mile southeastward of Dyke 
island are the two Outer rocks which are above water; and between 
them and the island there are several rocks and ledges with no safe 
passage through. All these islands and rocks lie nearly in a line 
southeastward from the cape, from which Outer rocks are distant 
2.4 miles. 

There is a clear channel, about 2 miles wide, between Murr islets 
and Outer rocks, with a depth exceeding 80 fathoms. There is also 
a safe passage on either side of Entrance island; that between En¬ 
trance and Dyke islands being the best, with a depth of 13 fathoms 
water in it; shoal water extends about 100 yards off the eastern side 
of Entrance island, but Dyke island is quite bold. 

The coast from cape Mekattina to cape Whittle, trending in gen¬ 
eral about southwest, is as dangerous as can well be imagined to a 
stranger falling in with it at night or in thick weather, and even to 
those who are quite acquainted with it the navigation is not easy. 
There have been instances of vessels, after having beaten about the 
gulf with adverse winds and bad weather in the fall of the year, 
being wrecked on this coast. 

The distance from cape Mekattina to cape Whittle is 55 miles, 
but the line between them passes T or 8 miles within the outer islands 
and rocks, so that it is necessary to steer 227° from Murr rocks to 
pass outside St. Mary reefs, which are the outer dangers off the 
coast. 

The depth of water immediately off, and even within, the outej* 
islands and rocks is in general very great, often exceeding 70 or 80 
fathoms, so that there is no warning by the lead; but at 12 or 15 
miles offshore there are occasional banks of sand and gravel, with 
from 30 to 50 fathoms water. The outer islands are entirely bare 
of wood, but there are more trees on the mainland than there are 


LITTLE MEKATTINA ISLAND-HERRIOT ISLES. 357 

in some parts of the coast farther toward the northeastward, indi¬ 
cating a slight improvement in the climate to the southwestward. 

Little Mekattina island, the eastern point of which, named point 
Antrobus, bears 223°, 15 miles from cape Mekattina, is about 7 
miles long, north and south, and about 3 miles wide. De Salaberry 
bay runs in on its western side and nearly divides it into two parts, 
joined by a very narrow isthmus with De Salaberry bay on the west 
and bay of Hocks on the east. The greater or southern part of the 
island is high and remarkable, its highest hill being about 570 feet 
in height. The part of the island northward of the isthmus is a low 
and mossy swamp, resting on sand, with isolated ridges and mounds 
of granite piercing through it in places. Within the island, to the 
northward and westward, are extensive hats of sand with bowlder 
stones and small rocky islets. 

Little Mekattina river hows through these hats by several shal¬ 
low channels, the largest of which passes into Aylmer sound to the 
westward, and the shallowest into bay of Hocks eastward of the 
island. The latter channel has only 3 feet in it at low water, so that 
it is then possible to wade across it and from the island to the main¬ 
land. The river is large, and falls 30 feet over granite a short dis¬ 
tance within the entrance and about 2^ miles northwestward of the 
island. 

Tuttle Mekattina island, having thus no channel between it and the 
mainland available for vessels and scarcely even for boats at low 
water, may be considered as forming the southwestern side of a 
large bay. Mekattina promontor} 7 forms the eastern side of this 
bay, which is filled with numerous islands and rocks, among which 
navigation is impracticable. 

Fin rocks lie nearly 250 yards off Whale head, the southern ex¬ 
treme of Gore islands, and 215°, 10 miles from cape Mekattina. 

Herriot isles are situated 245°, 2 miles from Whale head; Scale 
rock, with 2 fathoms over it, lies southeastward 800 yards, and Tail 
rocks 217°, 500 yards from these isles. Single rock, small and just 
above water, lies 1,200 yards southwestward of Tail rocks, and a rock, 
with 3 fathoms over it, lies 174°, 300 yards; another, with 1 fathom 
westward 300 yards, and a third, with 2 fathoms, 337°, 300 yards 
from it. Between Herriot isles, with those to the northwestward of 
it, and Little Mekattina island there is a large open bay, the head 
of which is bay of Rocks. Point Antrobus, a small peninsula at 
the eastern end of Little Mekattina island, is the southwestern point 
of this bay, and a ledge extends 200 yards southeastward from it. 

Caution. —Eden islands lie northwestward 1^ miles from Single 
rock, and all the bay within or to the northward and eastward of this 
line is full of sunken rocks and shoal rocky patches, which have deep 
water around them. 


358 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Little Mekattina cove, on the eastern side of Little Mekattina 
island and about f mile northward of point Antrobus, is § mile long 
and 140 to 280 yards wide, between high, bold, and precipitous rocks. 
There is a depth of 10 fathoms water in the entrance and IT fath¬ 
oms, mud bottom, within. It is open northeastward, but as the 
islands are distant only 3 miles in that direction, a vessel well moored 
would be quite safe in it; it is, however, too small and the depth 
of water in it is too great for it to be a favorite resort. Cove point, 
the eastern entrance point, is bold. 

Water can be obtained at the head of the cove. 

Population. —There were 213 inhabitants in 1901, distributed 
among the harbors in the vicinity of Little Mekattina island. 

Pocks. —The eastern Cat rock lies 17° nearly 1 mile from Cove 
point, and the western Cat rock is 400 yards south westward of it; 
both these rocks are above water. Staff island, 300 yards northwest¬ 
ward of the eastern Cat rock, is about 150 yards across, and at 
200 yards eastward of it there is a rocky patch dry at low water, 
which can be seen from aloft; there is also a ledge with 2 fathoms 
least water, 320 yards northeastward of the northern end of the islet. 
From this ledge the eastern extremes of Eden islands and the small 
and high Nob islet are in line bearing 31°. 

Hare harbor.—The entrance to this harbor, between Daly and 
Price islands, lies about 2 miles northward of Cove point. The 
harbor, formed between several islands and Little Mekattina island, 
extends 2 miles north-northwestward, with a width of 400 to 1,000 
yards and general depths of 4 to 10 fathoms, but there are several 
rocks and ledges in it, most of which are visible. The entrance is about 
320 yards wide with 20 fathoms water. As the harbor is open to the 
southeastward, the prevailing westerly or easterly winds are favor¬ 
able for sailing in, and are generally accompanied with a smooth sea 
in the entrance; only when the wind is well to the southward is 
there any swell, and even then it never affects vessels in the harbor. 

Rocks. —Watch rock, small and above water, is about 340 yards 
within the entrance, and about 150 yards off Price island. 

Bold islet, 160 yards westward of the northern end of Price island, 
is very small and steep-to. 

Safe rock, 400 yards north-northwestward from the northeastern 
end of Daly island, is very small, above water, and steep-to on its 
eastern side. 

Rag ledge, nearly midway between Safe rock and Bold islet, just 
dries at low water. It can generally be seen from aloft, and has 
clear and deep channels, 300 yards wide, on either side of it. 

Foul rock, 329°, 1,200 yards from the southern point of Price 
island, is a 2 fathoms patch. 


HARE HARBOR. 


359 


Directions. —From the westward pass point Antrobus at a dis¬ 
tance of not less than 600 yards, pass eastward of the eastern Cat 
rock, and not less than J mile eastward of Staff island in order to 
clear the shoals off it. 

From eastward of Staff island steer about 0° till the entrance of 
the harbor bears 306°, when steer directly for it, taking care not to 
use the channel between Price and Eden islands by mistake, as there 
are numerous ledges in it. Daly island, on the western side of the 
entrance, lies close to the shore, with only a boat channel between, 
which can not be seen through from outside. Its eastern side 
is steep-to. 

Give the southern end of Price island a berth of at least 60 yards. 
Pass westward of Watch rock, eastward of Safe rock, and on either 
side of Rag ledge; the channel westward of the ledge is, however, the 
best, and the course from the center of the entrance through it, so 
as to pass about 100 yards from Safe rock, is 324°. 

When within Rag ledge choose an anchorage by the lead, for there 
are several patches of rock with 4 to 6 fathoms, although the bottom 
is generally mud, with 8 to 10 fathoms water. In anchoring avoid 
Foul rock; and to pass westward of it keep more than half way over 
between the islands forming the eastern side of the harbor and its 
western shore, or from the position abreast Rag ledge steer nothing 
to the eastward of 337°. The most secure anchorage in the harbor 
is nearly \ mile northward of Foul rock, and eastward of Cluster 
point, which consists of some low small islets and rocks extending 
from Little Mekattina island. 

From the eastward, pass \ mile southward of Fin rocks, about 
800 yards southeastward of Scale rock, and J mile southeastward of 
Single rock. Then, steer 295° for a position 4 mile southwestward 
of Single rock, taking care not to close it within J mile, whence make 
a direct course 305° to the entrance of the harbor and proceed as 
before directed. 

Water, etc.—There is a good watering place in the small cove on 
the western side of Hare harbor, and wood may be obtained in 
various places. Two men were some years ago, and may still be, 
employed in the salmon and seal fisheries, either in the entrance of 
Little Mekattina river or near Little Mekattina cove, during summer, 
but they did not remain during winter. There are plenty of blue 
and cloud berries, etc., on the hills of Little Mekattina island. From 
the high parts of Little Mekattina island there is a fine and extensive 
view of very peculiar scenery; the nearer objects are steep precipices, 
deep glens, and dark stagnant ponds fringed with dwarf spruce, 
juniper, birch, and poplar, the whole conveying an idea of extreme 
barrenness. 


360 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


The south coast of Little Mekattina island, extending from point 
Antrobus 3 miles southwestward to cape Mackinnon, is high and 
bold, with remarkable beaches of white bowlder stones occasionally. 
There is a long cove close to the eastward of cape Mackinnon, but 
it is of no use to shipping. 

Aylmer sound is between Little Mekattina island on the east and 
Harrington islands together with the mainland on the west, and it is 
navigable northward about 4 miles from westward of. cape Mac¬ 
kinnon. Cape Airey, the southern point of Harrington islands, lies 
233°, 5 miles from cape Mackinnon, and between them is the entrance 
to the sound; Craig point is about a mile north-northwestward of 
cape Mackinnon, and the breadth of the sound from this point, about 
266° to Paynter islands, is only 2 miles, and so it continues as far as 
it is navigable. Paynter islands, 4 miles northward of cape Airey 
and close to the mainland, are small. 

Aid and Close islets, on the eastern side of the sound are small; 
Aid islet, the outer, lies 295° nearly 1 mile from cape Mackinnon 
and 800 yards offshore; Close islet lies about midway between the 
cape and Aid islet, and about 200 yards offshore. There is probably 
a deep channel between Aid islet and Little Mekattina island. 

Spray reef, 256°, 1^ miles from cape Mackinnon, is small, awash at 
low water, and steep-to around. This is the only reef in the entrance 
of the sound that is not always visible, and vessels had better pass 
westward of it, because the passage between it and Aid islet has not 
been sounded, although it is probably clear and deep. 

The only rocks on the western side of Aylmer sound are above 
water and close to the shore. 

Doyle islands, four in number, appear from the entrance of the 
sound as only two; the two western islands are very low and close 
together, being joined at low water; the two eastern are of moderate 
height, and also close together. The northeastern point of the islands 
bears 352°, 2 miles from Craig point. In the channel between these 
islands, and also between them and Crescent point, northwestward 
of them, there are several small rocks and ledges; but the passage 
eastward of the islands and between them and the ledges which lie 
across the mouth of De Salaberry bay is safe. This passage is \ mile 
wide, with 18 to 23 fathoms water in it, the eastern side of the islands 
being bold. 

Lou road.— From the northern point of the eastern Doyle island, 
Boot point, the southern entrance point of Louisa harbor, bears 14°, 
distant 1,200 yards. Within or northeastward of Doyle islands, be¬ 
tween them and Louisa harbor, is Lou road, a fine roomy roadstead, 
with anchorage in 12 to 4 fathoms, mud bottom; the soundings in the 
road, which is 1 mile long, west and east, and about 1,200 yards broad, 


LOUISA HARBOR-NETAGAMU RIVER. 


361 


decrease gradually to the westward. The roadstead is bounded on 
the north by banks of sand and stones, dry at low water, which extend 
across from Dickson islands, forming the northwestern side of Louisa 
harbor, to Crescent point. It is through these banks that most of the 
water from Mekattina river flows to sea. 

Louisa harbor is about 400 yards wide at the entrance, which is 
situated about 4°, 1 mile from the eastern Doyle, island, and the 
anchorage space within, having depths of 3 to 5 fathoms, mud bottom, 
is i mile north and south, and 1 mile east and west. The harbor is 
open south westward, but all sea is broken by Doyle islands. The 
entrance points are quite bold; and the best anchorage is 300 yards 
within them, in 4 fathoms, and in the southern part of the harbor. 

Directions. —Approaching Aylmer sound, keep clear of Block 
reef, and in the sound guard against Spray reef by bearings of 
cape Mackinnon, cape Airey, and Paynter islands. There are 
irregular soundings with as little as 11 fathoms, rocky bottom, 
here and there in the sound, but generally the depth is 19 to 23 
fathoms, rock, sand, and mud bottom. The ground can not be trusted 
until within Doyle islands. For Louisa harbor, or Lou road, keep 
the eastern side of Doyle islands aboard, to avoid the ledges lying 
across the entrance of De Salaberry bay. When inside the islands 
either anchor in the road or run into the harbor, as convenient. 

Harrington islands extend northward 4 miles from cape Airey 
to the mainland, and there is no channel within them, because of the 
great number of small rocks. The largest of these islands is about 
1.4 miles long, north and south, and J mile wide; several of the others 
are nearly as large. The islands are moderately high, the highest 
being estimated to rise 300 feet above the sea. Between the outer 
islands and the largest island there is indifferent anchorage and 
deep water, but the channels leading to it are so narrow and intricate 
that it is dangerous to attempt to navigate them except in small 
vessels and with intimate local knowledge. 

Black reef, 166°, 2 miles from cape Airey, is a grdup of low black 
rocks above water, about 300 yards across and bold, but with very 
irregular soundings, of 6 to 70 fathoms, rock bottom, around it. 

Major reef, 255°, H miles from cape Airey, is awash at low water, 
and very small. 

Netagamu islands, about west-south westward 4J miles from cape 
Airey, are small; and there is a remarkable mound on the largest. 
Between these islands and Harrington islands there is a bay of the 
mainland, with clay cliffs, a sandy beach at its head, and very many 
small rocks across its mouth. 

Netagamu river. —The outer entrance to this river is north¬ 
westward 1.6 miles from the western Netagamu island; and a 


362 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


semicircular bar of sand, dry at low water with the exception of a 
narrow channel with 3 feet water in it, extends 1 mile from the outer 
to the inner entrance, and is extremely dangerous to boats because of 
the heavy surf. The inner entrance has a sandy beach, backed with 
a thick growth of spruce trees on either side of it. The river is a large 
stream with deep water from the narrow inner entrance for about 
1.4 miles, or close up to the falls, which descend perpendicularly 50 
feet, on either side of an island, and into a basin 4 mile wide. These 
falls can be partly seen from seaward, when bearing about 25°. The 
current in the river is rapid, and the bottom of the channel is rock; 
but small vessels can be secured on the eastern side 1 mile within 
the entrance, where there are two huts, the temporary residence of 
salmon fishermen during the season. The hills of the mainland, 4 or 
5 miles westward of this river, rise 400 to 500 feet above the sea. 

St. Mary islands lie 6 miles off the mainland, and their north¬ 
eastern end bears 218°, 10 miles from cape Airey. These two islands 
are so close together that they form practically one narrow island 
extending 214° about 3 miles, of bare steep granite, rising 200 feet 
above the sea and bold all around. 

Cliff islands, 1,400 yards westward of the northwestern point of 
St. Mary islands, consist of one round and steep island 4 mile across, 
and several small islets and rocks close westward of it, with deep 
water between them. A ledge above water extends about 500 yards 
southward of the western islets, and a small ledge lies about 200 yards 
eastward of the large island. 

Boat islands, the eastern of which bears west-southwestward a 
little more than f mile from the southwestern Cliff island, with a 
clear channel between, are a cluster of small islands close together, 
occupying a space If miles long, southwest and northeast, and about 
f mile wide. 

Centre reef, 277°, 2f miles from the northwestern point of St. 
Mary island, is above water and may be passed on either side at the 
distance of 400 yards. 

Bold rock, southwestward 14 miles from Centre reef, is above 
water. There are some sunken rocks in the passage between this rock 
and Middle islands. 

Middle islands are a chain of islands, nearly joined at low water, 
with several small islets adjacent, covering a space of 34 miles south¬ 
west and northeast and about 1 mile wide. The western island is 
2f miles long and 150 feet high. There is good anchorage in 10 to 
12 fathoms between the western island and two smaller islands 
northward of it; but the anchorage is too small for large vessels and 
too intricate to be used; it can be approached only from the eastward. 


SOUTHWEST ISLANDS-WATAGHEISTIC SOUND. 


368 


Middle islands lie 1J miles from the mainland, and there is no 
safe channel between, owing to the numerous islets and rocks. There 
is a safe channel, nearly 1 mile wide, between these islands and Boat 
islands, to the southeastward. In all these channels the soundings 
are irregular and the ground foul, with a depth in some places of 
15 fathoms and in others 40 to 50 fathoms. 

Southwest islands. —Numerous detached islets and rocks extend 
southwestward about 2f miles from Middle islands. Southwest 
islands, the southwestern of these islets, are a group of small islets, 
of which the western is high and round. 

Tender reef, 315°, 1,600 yards from the northern St. Mary reef, 
and 222°, lj miles from the southwestern Boat island, is small and 
awash at low water. 

St. Mary reefs are four ledges just under water, on some of 
which the sea always breaks. The northern ledge lies 200°, 2 miles 
from the southwestern Boat island; two ledges lie 138°, 600 yards 
and 1,200 yards from the northern ledge; and the southern ledge of 
the reefs lies 188°, 900 yards from the southern of these two ledges. 

There is a patch of 12 fathoms lying 2 miles southeastward of St. 
Mary reefs and one of 8 fathoms nearly as far southwestward of 
them. 

Channels. —The soundings around and between all these rocks and 
islets are generally deep and irregular, and no warning of approach 
to them is given by the hand lead. The channels between Tender reef 
and Southwest islands, and between St. Mary reefs and Boat islands, 
are believed to be clear, at any rate, of shoals with 3 fathoms or less 
water over them; this is because the sea often breaks in that depth, 
and such breakers have not been seen. 

Watagheistic island, lying in the mouth of a large bay of the 
mainland, is hilly, 3 miles long, northeast and southwest, over 1| miles 
wide, and much broken into coves; it is difficult to distinguish from 
seaward. The eastern end of Watagheistic island bears 329°, 6J miles 
from Cliff islands, and between them there are many islets, rocks, and 
reefs. 

Cove island, the largest of these islets, etc., is % mile across, and is 
surrounded with rocks and ledges; it bears 309°, 4 miles from the 
northern point of St. Mary islands, and there are thickly scattered 
rocks both above and under water all the way from it to Netagamu 
islands, 6J miles northeastward. 

Watagheistic sound is a secure harbor between Watagheistic 
island and the mainland. The eastern entrance is narrow and intri¬ 
cate, but the western entrance is ^ mile wide; and although there are 
several rocks and ledges in it, it may be used, with proper care, by 
large vessels. 


364 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Montcalm rock is a rock with a flat top about 14 feet across, 
having a depth of 12 feet over it, lying in the approach to Watagheis- 
tic sound, northward of Bold rock, on the following bearings: Bold 
rock 149°. Mound island east tangent in one with the east tangent of 
Bare rocks 5°. Most northern island off Seal-net point, north tan¬ 
gent 275°. 

Caution.—Watagheistic sound can not be reached without passing 
through 7 miles of dangerous navigation, which should not be at¬ 
tempted unless absolutely necessary. The use of the following direc¬ 
tions must be accompanied with a good lookout from aloft, for it is 
not certain that all the ledges have been found, although there is every 
reason for supposing that none have escaped notice. 

Directions—Northeastern entrance.—From the westward with 
a westerly wind, pass between Tender reef and Southwest islands, 
then between Middle and Boat islands, and southward of Bold rock, 
steering about 33°, or run down outside St. Mary reefs, and then 
pass between Boat and Cliff islands, which is the safer route. 

Leave Bold rock 800 yards to the westward, the channel between 
that rock and Centre reef being clear, and steer 330° for a position 
westward 500 yards from Bare rock. Parts of the reefs extending 
southwestward from Cove island and parts of Cutter reefs, which lie 
298°, about 1.6 miles from Bold rock, are above water, and may be 
seen when passing them. Black ledge must not be closed, as it has 
not been examined. Then steer about 347°, direct for Beacon islet, 
until 4 mile from Beacon islet, when alter course to about 23° and 
pass the islet, and a reef and a 3 fathoms patch, which together ex¬ 
tend 23°, 800 yards from it; then, giving the islet a berth of \ mile, 
haul in 306°. 

A deep bay lies in the northeastern side of Watagheistic island 
about 1,200 yards within Beacon islet. Steer for the narrow channel 
between the northern entrance point of this bay and two small islets 
which lie nearly 300 yards north-northeastward of it. Leave an islet 
nearly filling the entrance of another deep cove in Watagheistic 
island close to the westward, and then steer 281° through the channel 
between Watagheistic island and the islands to the northeastward, 
which extend nearly across to the mainland in that direction. Keep 
rather toward the Watagheistic island side of the channel. The chan¬ 
nel is at first only about 170 yards wide, but it soon opens to 320 yards, 
with a depth of 15 fathoms in the middle, mud bottom, where there 
is secure anchorage. 

To proceed into Upper sound, avoid a reef lying 4 mile northwest¬ 
ward of the northern point of Watagheistic island, and across the 
mouth of the channel, by turning sharp around the point of the island 
on the northeastern side of channel and steering 0°. There is no 
safe channel eastward of Cove island. 


WATAGHEISTIC SOUND-DIRECTIONS. 


365 


Southwestern entrance. —From the eastward with an easterly 
wind, steer for the northern point of St. Mary islands, pass it at the 
distance of 400 yards, and then steer 265° to pass about, but not less 
than £ mile southward of Centre reef, when shape a course 199° for 
a position about 800 yards eastward of Seal islets. 

These islets form the northern entrance point of Boussier bay, 
which is full of islets and rocks. In the middle of the channel to the 
westward between Watagheistic island and the mainland there are 
two small islets, which in line bear 257°; the outer of these islets is 
about £ mile within the channel; they are £ mile from each other and 
quite bold. In line with these two islets and 77°, 700 yards from the 
eastern one lies Kettle rock, very small and just covered at low water. 
This rock lies in a line from the western side of Seal islands to a 
point of a shoal cove on the southern side of Watagheistic island,, 
which is open to the westward; there is a rock awash at 160 yards 
southward of the western entrance point of this cove and northward 
of Kettle rock. The channels on either side of Kettle rock, which is 
quite bold, are each £ mile wide and are 20 to 26 fathoms deep. Pro¬ 
ceed westward through the channel, passing on either side of Kettle 
rock, and clearing it by not bringing the islets westward of it in line 
while in its vicinity; pass on either side of these islets, and then haul 
to the northward and anchor under the southwestern end of Watag¬ 
heistic island in 17 to 20 fathoms, mud bottom, and well sheltered 
from all winds. 

The channel into Upper sound, northward of Watagheistic island, is 
navigable throughout for large vessels, with a convenient depth of 
water and good ground for anchoring, and a chart is the only guide 
necessary. 

Water and wood are abundant. A hunter and salmon fisherman 
lives in Hamelle harbor, at the northeastern extremity of the sound, 
and another lives in Boussier bay. 

Telegraph station. —There is a telegraph office at Seal-net point 
(point au Maurier), the southwestern entrance point (on the main¬ 
land) of Watagheistic sound. 

Caution. —There is no good anchorage on the route to, or outside, 
either entrance to Watagheistic sound, the soundings being irregular, 
with deep water and generally foul ground. The breakers on every 
side, on the numerous rocks and ledges, make the place look, as it 
really is, extremely dangerous. 

The mainland between Middle islands and Wapitagun island, 
about 8£ miles to the southwestward, is broken into coves, with very 
numerous islets and rocks, extending some 2 miles off it, among which 
navigation is practicable only for a very small vessel, with local 
knowledge. 


366 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Etamamu river enters a bay open southward, full of islets and 
rocks, and situated 4 miles northward of the northeastern entrance of 
Wapitagun harbor. The river, consisting of a succession of rapids, 
is generally narrow; it, however, widens in several places, forming 
lakes with still, deep water. Early in spring or after rain it is almost 
impossible to ascend the river; at certain seasons of the year, how¬ 
ever, a boat can ascend 4 miles from the mouth, but then only with 
great difficulty. At the mouth of this river there is a trading and 
salmon fishery post, at which two men reside all the year. 

Mistassini reef, a small patch with less than 6 feet water over it, 
lies 268°, 7J miles from the southern St. Mary reef, and about 71°, 
1.6 miles from East passage into Wapitagun harbor. 

South Makers ledge, 241°, 9J miles from the southern St. Mary 
reef, with general depths of 10 to 40 fathoms, rock, between the 
ledge and reef, is a rock, which is never entirely covered when the sea 
is smooth, extending, above and under water, 270 yards northeast and 
southwest, and 100 yards northwest and southeast. A patch of 4 
fathoms bears 119°, distant 400 yards from it. The soundings are 
very irregular round the ledge; there are 54 fathoms f mile north¬ 
eastward, and nearly 60 fathoms 2 miles southeastward of it. 

Mistassini, or the Great Stone, on the eastern part of Outer Wa¬ 
pitagun islands, 333°, 3J miles from South Makers ledge, is a re¬ 
markable block of granite, resembling a mortar, especially when seen 
from the southwestward, and has been called the Gun by the fisher¬ 
men. It is an excellent guide to East passage into Wapitagun har¬ 
bor, the entrance to which is f mile northeastward of it. 

Outer Wapitagun islands, which are of bare granite and about 
70 feet high, are so close together that they appear like one island, 
extending 2.3 miles northeast and southwest. 

Wapitagun harbor, a narrow channel running between Outer 
Wapitagun islands and Wapitagun island, which is northwestward 
of them, is completely sheltered. West passage into the harbor is 2 
miles southwestward from the Mistassini. 

Cormorant point, the southeastern extreme of Lake island, bears 
250°, 1,200 yards from the western extreme of Outer Wapitagun 
islands. Nearly midway between these points, but northward of the 
line joining them, there is a small islet which is left to the north¬ 
ward in entering the harbor; the entrance through West passage is 
sharp round the southwestern extreme of Outer Wapitagun islands. 
West passage is about 160 yards wide, and East passage is 120 yards 
wide in places. The harbor is not more than 280 yards wide, except 
where there are small bays, and, although deep, its navigation is so 
intricate that it is unsuitable for vessels exceeding 150 tons. 


WAPITAGUN HARBOR. 


367 


Lake island, on the western side of West passage, is about 2J 
miles in length, east and west, and of irregular shape. Its southern 
coast between Cormorant point and cape Whittle, its western extreme, 
is very remarkable, running straight about 259°, and being composed 
of dark red granite craggy cliffs, upward of 100 feet in height, stained 
white by the cormorants. 

Cormorant rocks lie directly between South Makers ledge and 
cape Whittle, which bears 285°, 6.4 miles, leaving a channel between 
the rocks and the ledge nearly 2J miles wide. The soundings in this 
channel are irregular, varying between 12 and 30 fathoms. A rocky 
shoal, with 4 fathoms on it, stretches 164°, 350 yards from the south¬ 
eastern Cormorant rock; another with 2 fathoms lies 35°, 1,200 yards 
from Nest rock; and a 2-fathoms patch bears 11°, J mile from Slime 
rock, the northeastern Cormorant rock. There is no channel between 
Cormorant rocks, or between them and Lake island, excepting for 
small craft, and for those with intimate local knowledge. 

Rock.—A rocky patch, with 2 fathoms least water over it, and 
about 300 yards across, lies 66°, 1.2 miles from Slime rock. 

Directions.—In approaching and entering Wapitagun harbor it 
is necessary to keep a lookout from aloft for shoal water. East pas¬ 
sage into Wapitagun harbor, between Outer Wapitagun islands and 
others to the eastward, has a rock and ledge above water on the 
western side of its entrance; therefore in entering keep the eastern 
side aboard, steering about 296°. Three small islets lie ^ mile within 
the entrance, and northward of them is a cove in Wapitagun island 
extending westward round a steep rocky point, which has a small 
sunken rock close off it to the eastward; in this cove there is safe 
anchorage in 2J fathoms. To run into the harbor, leave the three 
islets to the southward, passing close to them and then bear up south- 
westward between them and the steep rocky point of the cove. The 
passage southward of the three islets is only 60 yards wide, and there 
is a ledge in it, which may be seen from aloft; but the passage to 
the northward of the islets is much the safer. 

To enter Wapitagun harbor by West passage, and with a westerly 
wind, give a good berth to Cormorant rocks and approach between 
these rocks and South Makers ledge, steering 330°, so as to pass ^ 
mile eastward of the eastern Cormorant rock. This rock is about 
240 yards eastward of Nest rock, which is covered with birds and 
stained white by them. Steer now about 316° and pass about 300 
yards eastward of the small 2 fathoms ledge, which lies 800 yards 
northeastward of the eastern Cormorant rock, and also of the 2 
fathoms ledge, which bears 11°, % mile from Slime rock. Pass not 
less than 600 yards eastward of Slime rock. 


368 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


From close eastward of this ledge steer about 310° directly for 
the islet in the channel between the southwestern extreme of Outer 
Wapitagun islands and Cormorant point, taking care to pass east¬ 
ward of Long ledge, which lies midway between Slime rock and 
Cormorant point, by not opening the high eastern end of Lake island 
westward of the islet in the channel. Having passed Long ledge, 
steer about 270° and bring the western end of the islet to bear 330°, 
and steer for it in order to clear the 7-foot ledge lying 300 yards 
southward from the southwestern extreme of Outer Wapitagun 
islands, which should not be approached nearer than 400 yards until 
this ledge is passed. 

The patch which lies 240 yards south-southwestward of the islet 
is quite bold; and to clear it do not bring the western end of the islet 
eastward of 330°. When within 400 yards of the islet and the 
harbor begins to open to the northeastward, if in a sailing vessel, 
take in the after sail instantly and bear up quickly for the entrance, 
leaving the islet to the northward. Within the entrances the rocks 
are bold and the water smooth and there is anchorage anywhere, 
the general depths being 16 to 20 fathoms. The best berth is in a 
small bay on the southern side of the harbor, 1,200 yards within 
West passage, in 7 fathoms. The bottom within the harbor is every¬ 
where mud, but outside it is all rocky, with irregular soundings. 

Caution.—In entering this harbor, the vessel, having been placed 
under proper and reduced sail for the purpose, must be smartly 
handled, and it is necessary to have a leading wind and fine weather, 
so that the ledges may be seen from aloft. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Wapitagun harbor at 
lOh. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. The streams usually 
run past the entrances of the harbor, the flood setting westward and 
the ebb eastward, at rates of 4 to 1 knot; but both streams are much 
influenced by the winds. 

Water can be obtained on Lake and Wapitagun islands; there is 
no wood on the islands, but it can be procured by sending boats to 
the mainland, about 3 miles northward of the harbor. 


CHAPTER IX. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC— GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE, NORTH 
SHORE—CAPE WHITTLE TO POINT DES MONTS, INCLUD¬ 
ING THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 


Variation in 1908. 

Cape Whittle-30° 20' W. Sheldrake point_26° 30' W. 

Natashkwan point-28° 20' W. Point des Monts_24° 15' W. 

St. Margaret point_25° 20' W. 

The coast from cape Whittle, the southwestern point of Lake 
island to Natashkwan (Natashquan) point, westward 62 miles from 
the cape, is for the first 49 of these miles composed of granite, which 
rises into steep hills and ridges, with rounded summits, having 
morasses and stagnant ponds between them; thence to Natashkwan 
point it is sand. The mainland is low near the coast, gradually in¬ 
creasing in height toward the heads of the bays, but even there it 
seldom reaches 200 feet. The innumerable small islands, islets, and 
rocks which fringe the coast for distances of 5 miles seaward in 
places follow the same rule, being higher toward the mainland. The 
islands are bare of wood, and so also is the mainland, excepting up 
the bays or on sandy tracts, which are always covered with a thick 
growth of spruce, with occasional birch and poplar. 

The appearance of this coast from the distance of about 12 miles 
is so little diversified that it is almost impossible to distinguish one 
part of it from another, and only when one approaches within about 
4 miles of the outer rocks does its broken and dangerous nature 
become apparent. 

Soundings.—The outer rocks, both above and under water, are 
so bold that the hand lead gives no warning; but the deep-sea lead 
will find soundings in moderate, but irregular, depths off all this 
coast sufficient to indicate approach to it, as these depths are less 
than 50 fathoms within 5 miles from the outer rocks. 

Tidal streams.—The tidal streams are weak and irregular, and 
they are influenced, both in rate and direction, by the winds. 

Navigation.—Although this coast is generally dangerous from 
its nature, especially at night or in fog, yet with caution and a 

50918—08-24 369 








370 


GULP OP ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


constant use of the deep-sea lead it may be safely approached; a 
vessel may even stand close in to the outer rocks and breakers on a 
clear sunny day, provided a trustworthy lookout is kept from aloft 
for shallow water; the bottom can then be seen in about 4 fathoms 
water. 

General remarks.—What was written in the previous chapter 
concerning fogs, icebergs, climate, inhabitants, etc., applies only in 
a less degree to the coast now under consideration; and the same 
caution is necessary on this coast as was enjoined on that between 
Greenly island and cape Whittle. 

Caution—Magnetic variation.—As will be seen by the table of 
variation given at the head of the chapter, the variation decreases 
from 30° to 24°, a total of 6°, between the points forming the limits 
of the coast described. Caution is therefore necessary. 

Local magnetic disturbance must also be guarded against along 
this coast. 

Whittle rocks, two half tide rocks situated 2^ miles southwest- 
ward of cape Whittle, are the outer of the many small rocks, above 
and under water, lying to the southward and westward of the cape. 

These rocks are all steep, with 20 to 40 fathoms of water between 
them; small fishing vessels navigate among them, and generally also 
among the islands and rocks of this coast, by the eye, for every rock 
upon which such small vessels would strike can be seen in clear 
weather. 

Wireless telegraph.—There is a wireless telegraph station, the 
call letter of which is WE, at cape Whittle. 

Wolf bay, the first inlet of the mainland westward of cape Whit¬ 
tle, is about 7 miles deep north-northeastward; but a number of 
rocks and ledges and a few shoals under water extend across its 
mouth from cape Whittle to Wolf island, the channels through them 
being intricate and deep. If it should be necessary to enter so dan¬ 
gerous a place, it can be done only by looking out for the ledges 
from aloft in fine, clear weather, or by avoiding the broken water 
when there is a heavy sea. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office at Wolf bay. 

Wolf island, westward 6J miles from cape Whittle, is about f 
mile long, and from a short distance appears as two hills, about 150 
feet high. It is one of the higher and larger of the outer islands 
in this vicinity, and may therefore be easily recognized. 

Outer islet, about 198°, f mile from Wolf island, is small and low; 
it is the outer one of a chain of islands, which extends 4J miles from 
the point of the mainland dividing Wolf and Coacoacho bays. 

Beacon.—A white beacon, 30 feet high, consisting of a steel tripod 
with wooden slatwork, stands on this islet. 


COACOACHO BAY. 


371 


Grange rock, the eastern of three ledges lying off the entrance to 
Coacoacho bay, is a narrow ridge of rocks about f mile long north¬ 
east and southwest, with a least depth of 15 feet over it, and is 
shown by breakers only when there is a heavy sea running. From the 
southwestern end of the ridge Outer islet bears 11°. There is deep 
water around the ridge. 

South breaker, w T hich also shows only in heavy weather when the ' 
sea breaks on it, lies 257°, 2 miles from Outer islet, and has less than 
12 feet of water on it. This breaker is near the inner end of a ridge 
of rocks, which extends south-southwestward J mile from it,. and 
has a depth of 16 feet water near its outer end. 

Southwest breaker, with only 3 feet of water on it, lies 300°, 
2£ miles from South breaker, and 239°, 2J miles from Audubon point, 
the southwestern entrance point to Coacoacho bay. There are clear 
channels between these two ledges, which can be seen from aloft in 
clear weather. 

Coacoacho bay (meaning Great Owl bay) is the only place in this 
vicinity affording anchorage to large vessels. The approach to the 
bay on the southeastern side is formed by Outer islet, Wolf island, 
and the islets and rocks between them and the mainland; and on the 
northwestern side by Audubon rocks and islets. 

The bay may be considered to lie within point Emery, the termina¬ 
tion of the low rocks extending about 1,200 yards southwestward 
from Emery island, which is close off the mainland, southeastward, 
and point Milne, the western entrance point of the bay northwest¬ 
ward, and the bay extends with a width of about -J mile north-north¬ 
eastward 3 miles to Low rocks; it affords anchorage sufficiently 
sheltered for safety for those vessels having good anchors and cables. 

The Basin is an excellent harbor in the head of the bay, and Ter¬ 
tiary Shell bay, an arm extending 34°, is equally as safe as the Basin. 

Milne reef, in the inner part of the bay, extends nearly J mile 
190° from Low rocks; it partly dries at low tides. 

Directions.—Coacoacho bay is not at all difficult to enter, al¬ 
though the number of islets and rocks in every direction makes it 
appear so. To enter through the most direct channel between Grange 
rock and South breaker; while over 3 miles from Outer islet, bring 
it to bear 38° and steer for it on that bearing until the vessel is 
within Grange rock and South breaker, or until Outer islet is distant 
1 mile. Then steer 355° and pass 800 yards westward of the rocks 
which lie about \ mile north-northwestward of Outer islet, and when 
abreast of them bring point Emery, the southern end of the low 
rocks extending from Emery island, in line 8° with the extreme 
point of the mainland on the western side of the bay near the head. 

Steer in upon this range until some rocks, lying a little more than 
a mile 90° from Audubon islets, dry at low water and always visible, 


372 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


bear about 279°. Then haul to 350°, and leave Emery rocks, which 
are quite bold, to the eastward, whence proceed, steering 15° into 
the bay. To pass westward of Milne reef, keep Audubon point shut 
in behind Milne point and Crocodile islet 209°, which islet is 1 mile 
within point Milne and close otf the northwestern side of the bay. 
The bottom, outside, is either rock or sand, w T ith a depth of 12 to 30 
fathoms; but just within Emery island the bottom is mud, with a 
depth of 10 to 20 fathoms. The farther in the bay, the better the 
ground, and the less the sw T ell with southwesterly winds, the only 
winds that send any swell into the bay. The best berth is on the 
western side of the bay, ^ mile within Crocodile islet, in 9 fathoms, 
mud. 

For the Basin, keep the northwestern side of the bay aboard until 
within mile of the island in the head of the bay; then sheer east¬ 
ward toward that island, to avoid a shoal of bowlders, which ex¬ 
tends nearly 400 yards off the western side of the bay. The channel 
between this shoal and the island is only 200 yards Avide, but deep 
enough for large vessels. Pass 100 yards westward of the island and 
when abreast its inner end turn westward into the mouth of a small 
bay where the vessel may anchor in 8 fathoms, mud, quite sheltered. 
The Basin becomes shoal immediately northeastward of this anchor¬ 
age where an island lies in Coacoacho river entrance. 

For Tertiary Shell bay, leave a small rock above water mile 
within its entrance, to the southeastward; the shores of the bay on 
either side are quite bold. This bay is about 250 yards wide 
mile from the entrance, but it becomes wider within, Avith 5 to 11 
fathoms water, mud bottom, and is quite landlocked. 

In approaching Coacoacho bay from the westward pass between 
Southwest and South breakers, with the northern end of Wolf island 
bearing 60°; or between South breaker and Grange rock as above 
directed. 

Coacoacho river flows through a wide and shallow channel full of 
bowlders, and discharges the waters of a large lake, to which boats 
can ascend with the tide. Its shores are wooded with spruce trees; 
water may be obtained near the western side of the entrance. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Coacoacho bay at 
lOh. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

There is very little tidal stream in the bay, but weak and irregular 
flood and ebb streams set through and between the islands. 

The coast for 12 miles Avestward of Coacoacho bay, or to the en¬ 
trance of Olomanoshibo river, or Paint river, called also by the Cana¬ 
dians la Eomaine, is bordered by innumerable islets and rocks, which 
extend about 4J miles off it. 


WASHIKUTI BAY. 


373 


Olomanosliibo (Olomanosheebo) river, or Paint river, is of 
considerable size, and falls 20 feet over granite into the head of a bay 
4 miles deep but so shoal that boats can scarcely enter it at low 
water. There is a trading post named la Romaine, of the Hudson 
Bay company on the eastern side of the river near the falls; neither 
the post nor the falls can be seen from seaward, being hidden by the 
islands; but the place may be recognized by the low sandy cliffs, 
thickly wooded with spruce trees, on either side of the entrance of 
the bay. The tide flows 2 miles up the river. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of . the Canadian 
telegraph system at la Romaine, the Hudson Bay Company’s post. 

The coast from Olomanosliibo river entrance to Washikuti (Wash- 
shecootai) bay, a distance of 10 miles, continues broken, and is bor¬ 
dered with islets and rocks. 

Treble islet lies about 24 miles southwestward of Olomanosliibo 
river entrance. 

Loon rocks lie about 253°, 2 miles from Treble islet, 3 miles from 
the mainland, and are the outer rocks off this coast, and always above 
water. 

Washikuti bay (meaning Cloudberry bay), 10 miles westward of 
Olomanoshibo river, is 2^ miles wide, and has off its entrance several 
rocky small ledges which make access to it difficult. The eastern 
entrance point of the bay has many small rocks and islets off it. 
Cloudberry point is the western entrance point of this bay, and has 
some rocks also off it. At 3 miles within Cloudberry point the bay 
contracts to a very narrow inlet, having several rocks and islets in it, 
and from 4 to 2| fathoms watel, mud bottom, for 4 miles up, whence 
it is shallow for 4 miles farther, or to the falls of a considerable river, 
where there is a trading post and salmon fishery of the Hudson Bay 
company. 

This inlet is completely open to winds from the southwestward, 
and affords scarcely any shelter for the first 5 miles within Cloud¬ 
berry point. Vessels of considerable size might find shelter in it in 
time of need, but it is too intricate for general navigation, and di¬ 
rections for it can not be written. The masters of coasting vessels, 
who have local knowledge, keep a lookout man aloft when entering 
the bay. 

Rocks.—A rock is reported to lie 192°, 1J miles from Cloudberry 
point. A rock, with 6 feet water on it, lies 101°, 1.7 miles from 
Cloudberry point. 

Beacon.—A conical beacon, 25 feet high, stands on an island at 
the head of Washikuti bay, and this beacon, bearing 15°, leads into 
the bay clear of all shoals and westward of the fi-foot rock. 


374 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Muskwaro (Musquarro) point bears about 262°, 4J miles from 
Cloudberry point, and between the two is a bay full of small islets 
and rocks. 

Muskwaro river entrance, where there is a Hudson Bay Com¬ 
pany’s post, is situated 2 miles 15° from Muskwaro point. The river 
becomes rapid a short distance within the entrance and is useless 
except to boats or very small vessels; 6 feet can be carried in at low 
water, but it is a very intricate and dangerous place. Its position is 
indicated by the houses on the eastern side of the entrance, and also a 
remarkable red and precipitous ridge of granite, about 200 feet high, 
about 2 miles westward of the river. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office at Muskwaro. 

Curlew point, 5 miles, 262° from Muskwaro point, is the eastern 
entrance point of Kegashka bay; and \ mile off the point there are 
several bare rocks and ledges always above water. The coast between 
Muskwaro and Curlew points is very broken and has extending off it, 

for about If miles, many islets and rocks. 

Rock.—A rocky shoal, with 24 feet least water over it, is reported 
to lie about If miles 195° from Curlew point. 

Kegashka bay, situated between Curlew and Kegashka points, 
is 3 miles wide and 1J miles deep to the northward. In the western 
half of the bay there are several small islets, too far apart to afford 
much shelter from the sea; it is only in the northwestern corner of 
the bay, within Kegashka Point island, that there is anchorage secure 
in southerly winds. In this anchorage there is room for several 
small craft, but for only one vessel of moderate size, and she must 
moor with open hawse to the eastward, and a third anchor on shore 
to the southwestward, so as to be able to haul in close under the 
point when it blows hard from the southward. The depth of water 
within the islets is 4 to 6 fathoms, fine sand bottom. This is a wild 
place, although, during summer, small vessels shelter there suffi¬ 
ciently to run but little risk. 

Kegashka point is the southern point of Kegashka Point island, 
which is separated from a rocky peninsula by a very narrow channel, 
dry at low water; the peninsula is united to the mainland by a nar¬ 
row sandy isthmus covered with grass. Both the island and pen¬ 
insula are distinguished by being partly covered with spruce trees. 
There are also a few spruce trees on an islet, f mile westward of the 
point, and as no other islands on this coast are wooded, the bay may 
be recognized by the trees. There is a fine sandy beach, and low 
sandy cliffs in the northwestern corner of the bay; and there are 
similar cliffs for about 1 mile westward of the isthmus above men¬ 
tioned. This sandy tract is densely wooded with dwarf spruce, 
which circumstance also distinguishes this bay, and is the origin of 


KEGASHKA BAY. 


375 


its name Kegashka, which signifies impenetrable woods. Green 
island, nearly 1 mile eastward of Kegashka point, is about 600 yards 
across, and composed of low granite, covered with grass, and is the 
outer and largest islet sheltering the bay. There are several small 
islets and rocks inside, or northward, and also eastward of Green 
island; and Black islet, small and low, lies between it and the north¬ 
eastern part of Kegashka Point island. 

Directions.—The safest channel into Kegashka bay, between 
Black islet and Kegashka Point island, is 340 yards wide, with a 
depth of 7 fathoms water, and quite clear. The other channels have 
rocks in them. From the westward give Kegashka point a berth of £ 
mile, then run 9° along the eastern side of the island, which is quite 
bold, leaving all the islets to the eastward. Steer between Black islet 
and the northeastern end of Kegashka Point island, and haul round 
the latter to the northwestward, at the distance of 200 yards; and 
when the same distance within it, anchor in 5 fathoms and moor as 
above directed. 

From the eastward, give the low and small islets off Curlew point 
a berth of 4 mile, to avoid the ledges off them, which dry at low water; 
then steer to pass not less than 200 yards outside Green island. Keep 
285° till the northeastern end of Kegashka Point island bears 330°, 
then haul in and pass between the northeastern end of Kegashka 
Point island and Black islet, as above directed, giving the southern 
side of that islet a berth of at least 200 yards. 

There are no ledges or rocks off Kegashka bay entrance, except 
the reported 24-foot rocky shoal southwestward of Curlew point. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Kegashka bay at 
lOh. 45m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Water and wood can be obtained on the western shore of Kegashka 
bay, where there are several Canadian families (consisting of 50 per¬ 
sons) who live by gardening, keeping cattle and sheep, and, in winter, 
fishing and hunting; their houses are visible from seaward. 

Kegashka river has its entrance 3J miles westward of Kegashka 
point, and affords shelter only for boats. It falls 40 feet 1 mile with¬ 
in the entrance, where there is a fishing station of the Hudson Bay 
company; neither the falls nor the house at the station can be seen 
from seaward. 

Rocks and foul ground extend about 1^ miles 173° from the river 
entrance and its western point. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at Kegashka. 

The coast.—At 2J miles westward of Kegashka river entrance 
fine sandy beaches, in front of sandy cliffs about 70 feet high, and a 
country thickly wooded with spruce trees, commence and continue 


376 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—■‘NORTH SHORE. 


to Natashkwan (Natashquan) point, a distance of 134 miles. At 
about 2-J miles eastward of Natashkwan point the sandy ridge with 
spruce trees rises into mont Joli, a slight mound about 100 feet high, 
but very little higher than the rest of the country and scarcely 
noticeable. 

Ruisseau rock, 253°, 8 miles from Kegashka point and about 185°, 
14 miles from the entrance of the small stream named Long river, 
has only 2 feet water on it. In the vicinity of the .rock vessels should 
not go into a depth of less than 17 fathoms. 

Natashkwan point is the southwestern extreme of a remarkable 
sandy promontory, and the southern point of the northern shore of 
the Gulf, eastward of the Seven islands. The sandy cliffs end at 
the point. 

Cod bank, 1 mile. 196° from Natashkwan point, is a small shoal 
with about 4 fathoms on it at low water over gravel bottom. 

Natashkwan cod banks.—Parallel to the coast from Muskwaro 
point to Natashkwan point, and at distances varying from 6 to 11 
miles, there are banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, with a depth 
of 23 to 40 fathoms water over them, though there are more than 
50 fathoms in some places between these banks and the land. Cod¬ 
fish are often caught in abundance upon these banks, principally 
by American schooners. 

The coast, trending northwestward 34 miles, then northward 4 
miles and then westward from Natashkwan point to St. Genevieve 
island, the eastern Mingan island, a distance of 53 miles, is low near 
the sea, rising a short distance inland to mounds and ridges, which 
do not exceed 400 feet in height. The land is composed of primary 
rocks, with the exception of a sandy tract at Agwanus and Nabisipi 
(Nabesippi) rivers. The sandy tracts are always thickly wooded 
with spruce trees, and the country generally is here less bare than 
it is to the eastward. 

The coast is broken into many coves and small bays, affording 
shelter everywhere to boats, and occasionally to very small craft. 
Small and bare islets and rocks are very numerous along it, but 
they do not extend more than 2 miles off the mainland. 

When there is a heavy sea it breaks on all these rocks, thus indi¬ 
cating their positions, or they can be seen from aloft in clear weather; 
under other circumstances the land should not be approached to a 
depth less than 20 fathoms, that depth being in many places not 
more than 1 mile from the outer ledges. 

Banks of sand, gravel, and broken shells, covered with about 30 
to 60 fathoms water, extend off this coast for many miles, and there 
is a deep-water channel between them and Anticosti. 



N AT ASH K W AN RIVER. 


377 


Currents.—The easterly current along the coast in westerly winds 
has a rate which seldom exceeds 4 knot, and is usually much less, so 
that a vessel can always make way to windward in moderate weather. 

Tidal streams.—Inshore there are weak tidal streams which are 
apparently very irregular. It is important, however, to remember 
that there is a strong indraft during the flood into Natashkwan river 
and the bay off Little Natashkwan river, and that the ebb stream 
sets strongly about east-southeastward off Natashkwan point, caus¬ 
ing in southerly winds a very heavy sea upon the banks off the 
point. 

Southeastward of St. Genevieve island there is a strong indraft 
toward the channel between that island and the main during the 
flood or northwest-going stream, the ebb setting strongly southeast¬ 
ward. The rate of these streams seldom exceeds 1 knot an hour. 

Natashkwan river (the name meaning “ Where the seals land ”) 
enters the sea at about 4 miles north-northwestward of Natashkwan 
point. The mouth of the river, between low sandy points, is 1 mile 
wide, but is nearly all occupied by a low sandy island, with narrow 
channels on either side of it. The northern channel is nearly dry at 
times, but the southern has a depth of 6 feet at low water and 9 feet 
at high water neaps and 11 feet at high water springs. There is 
the same deptli within, and small vessels lie alongside the steep sandy 
bank on the southern side of the river 4 mile within the entrance, 
where are the houses of the Hudson Bay Company’s post. The bar 
of sand, on which there is usually a heavy surf, extends out } mile, 
and is so steep to seaward that there is a depth of 20 fathoms J mile 
off it. Codfish are taken in great numbers off this bar in June, and 
the river abounds with salmon. 

The river above the trading post is full of sand banks, dry at low 
water, and navigable for boats onty for a few miles to the first 
rapids, above which and about 12 miles inland from the entrance 
it is said to become lost in a great morass. It discharges a great 
quantity of water in spring. The sandy beach trends northward 
for 34 miles from the entrance and terminates at the mouth of Little 
Natashkwan river, a small stream, which admits boats only at high 
water. The islets and rocks off the entrance of the river form the 
eastern side of Little Natashkwan harbor entrance. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at Natashkwan. 

Little Natashkwan harbor, formed by a number of islets and 
rock-, is suitable only for vessels not exceeding 100 tons. The en¬ 
trance of the harbor lies about 4 miles northward of Natashkwan 
river bar, and Central reef of rocks, which is situated in it, has a 
channel on either side; these channels are not more than 180 yards 


378 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 

wide, between reefs, the extent of which, under water, can not be 
seen, because the water is discolored by the dark streams of the 
neighboring rivers. 

The depth that can be carried at low water through the western 
channel is 3 fathoms, and that through the eastern channel is 5 
fathoms. The anchorage space within the reefs is about \ mile 
across each way, and has depths of 3 to 5 fathoms, over sand and 
mud bottom. This anchorage is sheltered by the main and islets 
from all except southerly winds, in which direction there are 
reefs of rocks, parts of which are always above water. With a 
strong southwesterly wind some sea comes over these reefs at high 
water, but never enough to endanger a vessel during summer. There 
are several rocky patches, with 2J to 3 fathoms over them, off the 
mouth of the harbor; these, with the want of space to work in, and the 
difficulty of getting out with the prevailing southerly winds of sum¬ 
mer, render this place of little general use; but it is a valuable 
harbor for the fishermen, whose schooners of 30 to 100 tons are well 
suited to the size of the place, which is contiguous to excellent fishing 
ground, and affords every facility for drying fish. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 32 feet high, situated at the 
southwestern extremity of the western and largest island on the 
eastern side of the entrance to Little Natashkwan harbor, exhibits 
at 33 feet above high water a fixed white light that should be seen 
in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

Sphinx rock, about 150 yards southwestward of the southwest¬ 
ern point of the western islet off the entrance of Little Natashkwan 
river, is a pinnacle with 9 feet water over it, and a depth of 5 fathoms 
at the distance of 20 yards around it. 

Central reef is about 350 yards long, north-northeast and south- 
southwest, and 200 yards wide, within depths of 3 fathoms, and it 
is partly above water. The rocks above water are bold to the south¬ 
ward and also to the eastward, but shoal water extends 140 j^ards 
north-northeastward, and about the same distance west-northwest¬ 
ward from the northern rock above water. 

Directions.—The harbor should not be entered without a pilot. 

Bring the lighthouse at Natashkwan to bear 3° and steer for it 
until the vessel is in 12 fathoms water, and the southeastern of the 
rocks at the termination of the sandy beach bears 53°. Then steer 
346° for Beacon islet, the southern large islet on the western side of 
the harbor. It is of gray granite, rather high and round backed, 
with a wooden cross on it. 

This course leads aboutlOOyards to the southwestward of a2J-fathom 
shoal lying about 203°, 450 yards from the lighthouse and about 200 
yards eastward of the shoals on the western side of the harbor. But 


LITTLE NATASHKWAN HARBOR-AGWANUS RIVER. 379 

the course must not be trusted to clear these reefs, as it passes so closely 
to them, and it is necessary to use great caution, and look out for the 
reefs and conn the ship from aloft. If the weather is not clear it 
might be necessary to mark the reefs. 

On approaching Central reef steer to pa^fe through the fairway 
of the channel either eastward or westward of it, as may be preferred. 
In the eastern channel give the eastern side of the rocks of Central 
reef above water a berth of about 100 yards, bearing in mind, in 
hauling round the northern and northeastern ends of the reef, that% 
it extends under water northeastward 140 yards from the rocks 
above water. 

In the western channel give the rocks of the reef that are above 
water a berth of 200 yards, and use great caution in passing the 
15-foot northwestern extreme of the reef, which is about 140 yards 
from the northern rock of the reef above water, although vessels of 
little draft can pass over the northwestern part of the reef. The 3 
fathoms channel here is only about 120 yards wide. 

The best anchorage berth is nearly in the middle of the harbor, in 
4 fathoms, sand and mud bottom, with the rocks of Central reef 
that are above water bearing 183°, distant 360 yards, and Beacon 
Islet cross 269°. 

Tides.—It is high w r ater, full and change, in Little Natashkwan 
harbor at llh. 0m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Inhabitants.—In 1901 probably about 365 people resided in this 
locality, and the majority live on the eastern side of Little Natash- 
kwan river, where there is a Roman Catholic church. There is a 
Jersey establishment on the north shore of the harbor. 

Washtawooka bay (meaning Crooked bay), 5 miles westward of 
Little Natashkwan harbor, is full of small islets, rocks, and ledges, 
which afford shelter to shallops and boats, but render the bay very 
intricate and dangerous. Shag islet, about 134°, 1^ miles from a 
projecting point of the mainland eastward of the bay, is a large black 
rock, and the outer of the rocks in this direction; but foul ground 
extends 196°, 1 mile from the same point. 

Agwanus river, about 275°, 3 miles from Washtawooka bay is 
a large stream, with rapids and falls at 1^ miles from the entrance, 
which is narrow, and has 6 feet in it at low water. There is no 
bar, but many small rocks, above and under water, extend 14 miles 
off its mouth, and render the approach extremely dangerous. The 
eastern entrance point is of rock, the western of sand, and there is a 
small islet f mile within the mouth of the river. Depths of 9 to 12 
feet can be carried up to this islet, above which the river expands into 
a basin, J mile wide, with a depth of 5 fathoms close up to the foot of 
the rapids. A sandy beach extends from 1J miles eastward of this 
river westward to Nabisipi (Nabesippi) river. 


380 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at Agwanus. 

Nabisipi (Nabesippi) river (meaning Man river), which is 
small and admits boats only in fine weather, enters the sea at a sandy 
point, 5 miles westward from Agwanus river. On the western bank, 
a short distance within the entrance, stand a house and store, the 
trading post of the Hudson Bay company, which is visible from sea¬ 
ward. 

0 Pashashibu (Pashasheeboo) bay, about 297°, 6 miles from the 
entrance of Nabisipi river, is open to the south-southeastward and 
difficult of access. 

Mushkoniatawee bay, westward about 2f miles from Pashashibu 
bay, is 400 yards wide, with 5 fathoms water in and beyond the 
entrance; it is open to southerly winds, but is tolerably secure for 
small craft, which lie close to the rocks. 

Washatnagunashka bay, about 5 miles farther westward, is 
1£ miles wide, with a chain of rocks above and under water across its 
mouth, which chain does not afford shelter, yet the rocks in it are 
so close together and so numerous that any attempt to pass through 
is attended with great difficulty and danger. There is a depth of 3 
fathoms in the entrance, and 4 to 5 fathoms inside. 

All three of these bays are small and full of small islets and rocks, 
which render navigation at their entrances difficult and dangerous. 
They are occasionally, but not often, entered by small coasting vessels, 
whose masters are intimately acquainted with the coast, and well 
they may be, for only those who know every rock and ledge could 
take a vessel in. 

Watshishu (Watcheesho), about 275°, 5 miles from Washatna¬ 
gunashka bay, is a granite peninsula, 127 feet high, and bare of trees. 
From a distance seaward it appears like an islet, higher than the rest 
of the islets in the vicinity. There is a fishing post of the Hudson 
Bay company in a cove among the rocks westward of it. The penin¬ 
sula and Saddle hill, 332°, nearly 6 miles from it and 374 feet high, 
are both very remarkable and serve to indicate to a vessel off the 
coast her position. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office at Watshishu. 

Quetachu Manikuagan (Quetachoo Manicouagon) bay, 4 
miles westward of Watshishu, is 2-J miles wide, and has depths of 3 
to 14 fathoms, but is so full of rocks and ledges as to be useless, ex¬ 
cept to small craft, and is open to the south westward. 

Piashti (Peashtebai), westward of Quetachu Manikuagan bay, 
is a much smaller bay, capable of affording shelter only to boats, and 
open to the southward. 


APPEETETAT BAY-MINGAN ISLANDS. 


381 


Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at Piashti. 

Appeetetat bay, 8 miles 2G3° from Piasliti, is full of rocks, with 
ledges under water off, and also within, its entrance. A depth of 4 
fathoms can be carried into this bay, but it is not used even by small 
vessels, because there is an excellent harbor within St. Genevieve 
island, only 3 miles westward of it. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at East point, Appeetetat 
bay, at llh. 10m.; springs rise about 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

The Mingan islands are of limestone, containing ammonites, 
orthoceratites, and other organic remains, many of which are similar 
to those of Anticosti. This limestone dips slightly to the southward, 
so that the islands are bold, and frequently cliffy, on their northern, 
eastern, and western sides, while they are low and shelving toward 
the south, in which direction there are reefs of flat limestone and 
other shoals. Ancient beaches, formed of water-worn pebbles of 
limestone, and flower-pot rocks, precisely similar to those which are 
forming at present, out of cliffs that are washed by the waves, are 
met with in most of the islands, far above the level of the highest 
tides. 

It is estimated that these islands nowhere rise over 300 feet above 
the sea, and generally they are much lower; although possessing very 
little soil, they are thickly wooded Avith spruce, birch, and poplar, 
on the side toward the mainland; but toward the sea barren tracts 
often occur, composed either of bare limestone or of banks and 
ridges of limestone gravel. 

The coast of the mainland from St. Genevieve island westward to 
Mingan river is in some places granite and in others limestone, the 
latter rock lying immediately over the former; while from Mingan 
river to river St. John it is of sand and clay, low and thickly wooded,, 
and with a fine sandy beach. About 7 miles inland and north- 
northeastward of Large island hills rise 1,000 feet above the sea. 
Mount St. John, 1,416 feet high, about 18 miles farther northwest¬ 
ward, is the highest point of the mainland in this locality. With 
these exceptions, the mainland is low, and it is particularly so abreast 
the eastern islands, where the hills are far back in the country. 

Local magnetic disturbance. (See p. 38.) 

Supplies.—Wood and water can readily be obtained from the prin¬ 
cipal Mingan islands; wild berries are abundant in their season, and 
so are different kinds of wild fowl. Quadrupeds are scarce; but 
there are plenty of seals upon the limestone reefs, and a few codfish 
off the coast. 

Tidal streams.—The tidal streams are not strong among Mingan 
islands, the rate not exceeding 1 knot, except in very narrow chan- 


382 GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 

nels. They are much influenced by the winds, but in fine settled 
weather there is a constant alternation of the flood and ebb streams 
between the islands and the main, and also within 2 to 3 miles south¬ 
ward of the islands. 

St. Genevieve island, the eastern of the Mingan islands, is about 
1J miles across either way. Its northeastern point is a bluff head¬ 
land, and the end of the highest part of the island, which is about 
200 feet above the sea, and slopes irregularly to the southward. 

Mount St. Genevieve, situated about 1 mile inland from the north 
shore of the gulf of St. Lawrence, and 337°, 2£ miles from the north¬ 
eastern point of St. Genevieve island, is an isolated limestone table 
hill resting on granite, and 332 feet high. 

East Saint and West Saint are two low and bare rocks, nearly 
600 yards apart on the bearing 254° and 74°, and lying a little more 
than -J mile southward of St, Genevieve island. The channel between 
them and the island has a depth of 5 fathoms, but the ground is foul, 
and sunken reefs extend from both East and West Saint from 600 to 
800 yards southward, southeastward, and south westward. 

Bowen rocks are two sunken patches lying 293° and 113° 1,200 
yards from each other. 

The northwestern Bowen rock, with 3 feet least water, lies 81°, 1.1 
miles from East Saint, and with the southern side of East Saint in 
line with the middle of West Saint. 

The southeastern Bowen rock, with 6 feet least water, lies 93°, 1.7 
miles from East Saint, which is just open northward of West Saint. 
These rocks lie also nearly in a line from the southeastern point of 
St. Genevieve island, at distances of 1.3 and 2 miles, respectively. 
The soundings between and close to Bowen rocks, and also for rather 
more than 1 mile southward of them and Saints rocks, are extremely 
irregular, varying from 4 fathoms, rock, to 43 fathoms, sand, some¬ 
times in a distance of 300 yards. This locality should be considered 
dangerous and should be avoided by mariners. 

Hunting island, nearly 1 mile westward of St. Genevieve island, 
is about 3.8 miles long east and west, and T| miles wide; it is low, 
thickly wooded, broken into many coves, and fringed with small 
islets and rocks on all sides, except toward the mainland. Off the 
southwestern point, 1J miles, lie Wood and Gun islands, leaving no 
passage between; reefs extend southward nearly 800 yards from 
Wood island and 400 yards from Gun island. Both these islands 
are low, and Gun island is bare of trees, but covered with grass and 
peat, in which innumerable puffins burrow and rear their young. 

Garde rock, rather more than 1 mile southward of the middle of 
the southern coast of Hunting island, is above water and is the termi¬ 
nation of a long ridge of sunken rocks, one of the many ledges that 


COLLINS SHOAL-SAINTS CHANNEL. 383 

lie off the southern side of Hunting island. Several reefs also lie off 
the southeastern end of the island, within a distance of f mile. 

There is no safe navigable passage between Garde rock and Hunt¬ 
ing island. 

Collins shoal, 157°, 3£ miles from the southeastern point of Hunt¬ 
ing island, is a small patch of rocks, with 12 feet least water over it. 
From the shoal the eastern point of St. Genevieve island is just open 
eastward of West Saint, bearing 11°, and the northern point of Wood 
island is in line with the southern side of Garde rock, bearing 288°. 

Caution.—The soundings are irregular, from 4 to 17 fathoms over 
rocky bottom, between Collins shoal and the reefs off the southeast¬ 
ern point of Hunting island, and unknown rocks may exist there; 
mariners, therefore, should not use this locality for navigation. 

St. Genevieve and Betchewun harbors.—St. Genevieve harbor 
is situated between St. Genevieve island and the mainland, and 
Betchewun harbor between Hunting island and the mainland. Both 
are excellent harbors, not difficult of access or egress, and are avail¬ 
able for large vessels. They are reached through two channels, East 
and Saints. 

East channel lies between the northeastern end of St. Genevieve 
island and the mainland, where the distance across is about 1 mile, 
but the navigable width of the channel is reduced to about £ mile 
by the rocks and shoal water off Ledge point, which is formed of 
numerous blocks of granite close together. From Ledge point shoal 
water extends directly across Pillage bay to Partridge point. 

Saints channel lies between St. Genevieve and Hunting islands. 
The breadth of the channel in the approach, between the shoal off 
West Saint rock and the shoals off the southeastern part of Hunting 
island, is nearly 1 mile; the breadth of the channel between the reef 
off the southwestern point of St. Genevieve island and Hunting island 
is ^ mile. This is the narrowest part of the channel, and everywhere 
within this channel the ground is good for anchoring, and so little 
sea comes in that the whole space may be considered a large and deep 
harbor. 

There is an inner harbor at Betchewun westward of Low islet, 
but the channel westward from it, between Hunting island and the 
mainland, is suitable only for boats. 

Directions.—East channel is the best with easterly winds, and 
may be used with moderate westerly winds during the flood tide 
by vessels that can work in so narrow a channel; but great care is 
necessary in standing northward, especially off Ledge point. 

With an easterly wind, while well seaward of Bowen rocks, bring, 
and approach with, the northeastern point of St. Genevieve island 
in line with Indian point, a low wooded point of the mainland, form- 


384 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


ing the eastern entrance point of Pillage bay, bearing 298°. This 
range leads | mile northeastward of Bowen rocks, and passes them 
in 20 to 30 fathoms water, over fine sand and coral. 

When the southeastern point of St. Genevieve island and West 
Saint come in line, steer a little toward the north, so as to give a 
sufficient berth to a flat shoal, Avhich extends nearly 600 yards from 
the northeastern side of St. Genevieve island. Pound the north¬ 
eastern point of St. Genevieve island at the distance of 200 yards, 
pass close to the shingly northern point of that island, and anchor in 
10 fathoms, mud bottom, midway between the northern point of St. 
Genevieve island and Anchor island, which lies 400 yards northward 
of the northwestern point of St. Genevieve island. 

To proceed to Betchewun harbor, pass northward of Anchor 
island, which is quite bold on that side, and steer for the entrance 
of Betchewun harbor, which is between the northern point of Hunt¬ 
ing island and Partridge point. Mount Partridge, on the north¬ 
eastern part of Partridge point, is a wooded and steep sided hill; 
the northeastern point of Hunting island is a cliffy mound, with a 
cove on its eastern side; this point is bold, and must be passed close- 
to, in order to avoid the shoal which extends 600 yards southward of 
Partridge point, and diminishes the navigable breadth of the 
entrance to TOO yards. From the entrance steer for Low islet, which 
is in the middle of the harbor, and anchor with its southern end 
bearing 252°, distant 600 to 800 yards. The depth of water in the 
harbor is 9 to 18 fathoms, mud bottom. 

Saints channel.—While well seaward of Collins shoal, not less 
than 5 miles from St. Genevieve island, bring and approach with 
the western points of St. Genevieve and Anchor islands in line, 
bearing 332°, until the northern extremes of East and West Saints 
rocks are in line, bearing 74°. The eastern extremes of mount 
Partridge and of an island joined to Hunting island at low water 
are then also in line, bearing 300°; keep this last range on, and steer 
southwestward of a reef extending 550 yards from the southwestern 
point of St. Genevieve island, until the eastern extreme of mount 
St. Genevieve, seen over the sandy southeastern point of Anchor 
island, is in line with the western point of St. Genevieve island, 
bearing 0°. Then steer 331° through the middle of the channel, and 
proceed either to St. Genevieve harbor, round Anchor island, giving 
its western end a berth of 400 yards, or to Betchewun harbor along 
the northeastern side of Hunting island, which is bold-to. The 
above route leads through the channel in not less than 20 fathoms 
water until about J mile from Anchor island. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, in 
Betchewun harbor at llh. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 


CHARLES ISLAND-TRIL0B1TE BAY. 


385 


The tidal streams between St. Genevieve and Hunting islands and 
the mainland are much influenced by the winds; but the rate seldom 
amounts to 1 knot, and is usually much less, excepting through the 
shallow and narrow channel at the western end of Betchewun har¬ 
bor, where there is at times a complete rapid. 

Water and wood can be procured. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office at Betchewun. 

Charles island is 3 miles long, west-northwest and east-southeast, 
and 1J miles wide. It is about 200 feet high, generally bold and 
cliffy; but about 157°, f mile from its eastern point there is a 
patch of rocky ground with 5 fathoms least water, as yet found; 
there may, however, be less water, and the locality should be avoided. 

Puffin bay lies between Hunting and Charles islands, and its en¬ 
trance, between Gun island and the eastern point of Charles island, 
is nearly 2J miles wide, and open to southerly winds. In the north¬ 
eastern corner of this bay is the narrow entrance (between shoals 
off Ragg point and Hunting island) to Ragg bay, which has tolerable 
anchorage in its northwestern part, but has very deep water on the 
side toward Hunting island; Ragg bay is separated from Betchewun 
harbor by the reefs between the island and the main. 

The only directions necessary for Puffin bay are to steer 0° fairly 
between the eastern point of Charles island and Gun island and look 
out for the shoal w r ater at the head of the bay. 

Anchorage.—Within the eastern point of Charles island and mid¬ 
way toward Shoal cove, at 400 yards from the island, there is good 
anchorage in 7 fathoms, mud bottom; but southeasterly winds send 
in a considerable swell. 

Charles harbor, between Charles island and the main, is J mile 
wide and f mile in length, but its entrances are only 160 yards wide. 
The depth in the harbor is 4 to 6-J fathoms, mud bottom, and in both 
entrances 7 fathoms, but there is a depth of only 4 fathoms in the 
approach through Puffin bay. The harbor is quite secure. 

The tidal streams, when influenced by strong winds, occasion¬ 
ally have a rate of 2 knots in the entrances of the harbor, but gen¬ 
erally the streams are weak. 

Whale island, -] mile eastward of Ammonite point and f mile 
westward of Charles island, is bold and cliffy on its southern and 
eastern sides, but there is shoal water between the island and the 
mainland northwestward of it. 

Trilobite bay, between Charles and Whale islands, is an excellent 
anchorage, well sheltered from all but southerly winds. The bay 
is connected with Charles harbor by a deep but very narrow chan¬ 
nel, and from the eastern entrance into Charles harbor shoal water 
50918—08-25 


386 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


extends about 1,200 yards off the mainland to the westward, and 
nearly fills up the northern part of the bay. The only directions 
necessary for Trilobite bay are to steer 0° fairly between Whale and 
Charles islands and look out for the shoal water at the head of 
the bay. 

Directions.—For Charles harbor from Puffin bay, approach 
with the northeastern point of Charles island, which is high and 
cliffy, bearing 286°; round it at distances of 200 to 350 yards, and 
haul westward into the harbor. 

From Trilobite bay, round the northern point of Charles island, 
which is the southwestern entrance point of the harbor, at a dis¬ 
tance of 120 to 280 yards, and steer about 99° into the harbor. This 
entrance of the harbor is too narrow for convenient use. 

Ammonite reef, which includes a small islet, extends J mile south- 
Avard of Ammonite point. Gun island open southward of Charles 
island leads about 4 mile southward of the reef; and the north¬ 
western point of Charles island well open southward of Whale 
island leads southeastward of it. This last range is useful only to 
vessels standing into Trilobite bay. 

Clearwater point, about 2 miles westward of Ammonite point, is 
low, and shoal water extends 600 yards southward of it. 

The coast between this point and Eskimo (Esquimaux) point, 
bearing 286°, 6J miles from it, forms a bay, the shores of which are 
high and conspicuous cliffs of limestone, or of sand and clay. Shoal 
water extends a considerable distance from the shore all around this 
bay; and north-northeastward of Sea Cow island the 3-fathom line 
of soundings is 1 mile from the sandy beach. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Clearwater point at 
llh. 30m.; springs rise 5 feet, neaps 3 feet. 

Clearwater shoals.—A rocky 3 fathoms shoal lies 247°, 14 miles 
from Clearwater point; there is a similar 3 fathoms shoal at 1J miles, 
another of 2 fathoms at 1.8 miles, and a third of 3 fathoms at 2 miles, 
271° from Clearwater point. 

Clearing marks.—The northern point of Fright island in line 
with the southern extreme of Eskimo island, and open southward of 
Green island, bearing 280°, leads close south-southwestward of these 
shoals; and the southern points of Gull and Fright islands in line, 
bearing 278°, lead 4 mile south-southwestward of them. 

Walrus island.—The southern point of Walrus island lies 269°, 
4J miles from Clearwater point, and the island is about 1,400 yards 
long, north and south, 500 yards wide, steep and precipitous, except 
at its southern end, from which a reef extends 400 yards. 

Sea Cow island, 400 yards north-northeastward of Walrus island, 
is nearly 1 mile long, north-northeast and south-southwest, J mile 


SEA COW CHANNEL-ESKIMO HARBOR. 


387 


wide, steep and precipitous, except to the south-southeastward, in 
which direction a reef extends f mile. 

Sea Cow channel, between the shoals off Sea Cow island and 
Clearwater shoals, is 1.3 miles wide and is clear; in proceeding 
through it to Eskimo harbor from the eastward, pass southward of 
Clearwater shoals and approach with the northeastern points of 
Walrus and Eskimo islands in line, 302°; when the northern point 
of Fright island is in line with the southern point of Eskimo island, 
280°, steer about 329° and round the northeastern side of Sea Cow 
island at a distance of not less than 400 yards, whence make a direct 
course to the entrance of the harbor. 

Walrus channel, between Walrus and Green islands, is the best 
in easterly winds, being nearly 1 mile wide, with 8 fathoms least 
water. Approach this channel with the northeastern point of Eskimo 
island bearing 332°. 

When Eskimo Point range lights come into line, steer for them 
344°, and so into the harbor. 

Green island, westward nearly 1 mile from Walrus island and 
eastward 800 yards from the southeastern point of Eskimo island, is 
small, low, and covered with grass, with reefs stretching northward 
and southward nearly 600 yards from it, but bold on its eastern and 
western sides. 

Gull island, about 211°, \ mile from the southeastern point of 
Eskimo island, is small, low, and covered with grass; there is no 
navigable passage between it and Eskimo island. The southern point 
of Gull island is bold, with deep water 400 yards from it. 

Eskimo (Esquimaux) island, the southeastern point of which 
lies 273°, 6 miles from Clearwater point, is 2.8 miles long, east and 
west, lj miles wide, and 200 to 250 feet high toward its northern 
side, sloping to the southward, From the southwestern side of the 
island extends a shoal the extreme point of which bears 217°, \ mile 
from the western point of the island. 

Eskimo harbor lies between Eskimo island and Eskimo point, on 
the mainland, including the shoals which extend from the point 
across the bays on either side. Eskimo point, having the outlet of a 
small river on its western side, is composed of sand, and is quite bold 
to the southward. The northeastern and northwestern points of 
Eskimo island are also bold, with deep water 140 yards off them. 
The anchorage space within this secure harbor is nearly 1J miles 
long, east and west, with an average breadth of 800 yards, and a 
depth of 5 to 15 fathoms, sand bottom. It is advisable to anchor 
within the line joining the northwestern and northeastern points of 
the island, and in not more than 11 fathoms water, where there is 
shelter from all winds. 


388 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Range lights.—A pole standing 75 feet back from the water’s 
edge on Eskimo point exhibits, at 38 feet above high water, a fixed 
red light, that should be visible in clear weather a distance of 7 
miles. 

A similar pole, situated 159 yards 344° from the first pole, exhibits, 
at 58 feet above high water, a similar light to the first. 

The two lights in line 344° lead through Walrus channel into 
Eskimo harbor. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, in 
Eskimo harbor at about Oh. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps 3^ feet. 
The flood tidal stream usually sets westward and the ebb eastward, 
with a rate of about 1 knot, in Eskimo harbor and off the coast in 
its vicinity. The streams are much influenced by the winds, and the 
ebb sometimes attains a rate of 2 knots in westerly winds. 

Eskimo point is the chief town on the northern shore of the gulf, 
and it contains a Roman Catholic church, a convent, a hospital, 
stores, etc. It is an important trading post for the traffic of fish, 
furs, and oil. 

There were 1,818 residents at Eskimo point in 1901. 

Communication.—A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every ten days during the navigable season for 
Eskimo point. 

Telegraph station.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian 
telegraph system at Eskimo point. 

Pier.—There is a pier at the town, 185 feet long, with a depth of 
24 feet at its outer end at low water. 

Water may be procured from the river at Eskimo point, or from 
small streams on the island, and wood is plentiful. 

Fright island, west-southwestward nearly 1 mile from the south¬ 
western point of Eskimo island, is about § mile long, north and 
south, and 800 yards wide; it is clear at 200 yards off its southern 
and southwestern sides; but reefs extend 400 yards off its eastern 
side, 500 yards off its northwestern point, and 700 yards off its 
northeastern point. 

The channel between the reefs off Eskimo and Fright islands, lead¬ 
ing northeastward toward Eskimo harbor, is nearly 800 yards wide, 
with deep water, but as there are no leading marks for it and the 
reefs on either side are extremely dangerous it is not recommended. 

Quin island, northward 800 yards from Fright island, is nearly 
1J miles long, north and south, about 800 yards wide, and it is bold, 
with the exception of Quin reef, which extends westward % mile and 
northward 200 yards from its northern point. 

The northern point of Sea Cow island open northward of the north¬ 
ern point of Eskimo island 99° leads northeastward of Quin reef. 


FRIGHT CHANNEL-NIAPISCA CHANNEL. 389 

Fright channel, between Quin island and the reefs off Fright 
island, is deep, but only 400 yards wide. It is not recommended, but 
if necessary to use it with a westerly wind when proceeding to Eskimo 
harbor, haul up eastward of Niapisca island, till the southern end of 
Quin island is in line with the southern side of the cove on the north¬ 
western side of Eskimo island, bearing 87°, then pass close round the 
southern side of Quin island, which is quite bold, and thence direct 
to the harbor. 

Quin channel, the best when approaching Eskimo harbor from 
the westward, is 1,400 yards wide between Quin island and point aux 
Morts on the mainland, but reefs on either side reduce the navigable 
breadth to 900 yards. The depth in the channel is 5 to 7 fathoms over 
rock, gravel, and sand bottom. Shoal water extends southward 400 
yards from point aux Morts, and the small islets westward of it. 

The northern and northeastern points of Eskimo island in line 
106° leads south-southwestward of the shoal off point aux Morts. 

Having passed Quin island steer to round the northern point of 
Eskimo island at the distance of 300 yards, and thence into the 
harbor. 

Niapisca island is about 2 miles long, north-northeast and south- 
southwest, | mile wide, and rises in three principal hills to about 200 
feet above the sea; it is only partly wooded. Reefs of flat limestone 
extend J mile southward and southeastward from the island, and be¬ 
tween its eastern and southeastern points a remarkable group of 
flower pot rocks stands on the limestone just above high water mark. 
A reef extends ^ mile northeastward from the eastern point of the 
island, which is the southern point of a bay. Reefs also extend 600 
to 800 yards from the western side of the island. 

Niapisca channel, between Niapisca and Fright islands, leads to 
the entrance of Quin channel, which turns eastward to Eskimo har¬ 
bor ; it is the best with westerly winds, and should be used. The chan¬ 
nel between the reefs of Fright island and those off Niapisca island 
is 1 mile wide in its narrowest part, w T ith deep water. 

In running for this channel from the westward, approach with 
the northwestern point of Fright island in line with the southeastern 
end of Quin island 46°; this range leads 400 yards southward of 
Niapisca reefs. Be careful, therefore, not to open those islands clear 
of each other until Moniac island (2-J miles north-northwestward of 
Niapisca island) is open to the eastward of Niapisca island. As soon 
as that has happened steer about 5° through the channel, and when 
Moutange island (next westward of Moniac island) opens north¬ 
eastward of Niapisca island, steer 304° and pass eastward of the reef 
extending northeastward from the eastern point of Niapisca island. 
Now haul up to the westward, if necessary, to clear Quin reef, not only 


390 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


until the northern point of Eskimo island is open northward of Quin 
island, but also until the northern point of Sea Cow island is just 
open northward of Eskimo island 99°, and steer through Quin chan¬ 
nel. Having passed Quin island, continue the course toward the 
northern point of Eskimo island. Steer to round it at the distance of 
300 yards and into the harbor. 

Tidal streams.—In Niapisca channel the stream sets northward 
during the flood, and southward during the ebb, but these streams 
are much influenced in rate, direction, and duration by the winds. 

Moniac island, 349°, 2J miles from Niapisca island, is 600 to 
1,000 yards across. Shoals extend about 400 yards southward of the 
island. 

Moutange island, 1J miles farther westward, is 4 to 1 mile 
across. It is situated off a bay full of little islets, and into which 
several small rivers flow. Shoals extend 600 yards southward of the 
island. 

These two islands are distant f mile from the mainland, but shoals 
within and between them nearly dry at low water; and rocky ground, 
with irregular soundings of 4 to 10 fathoms, extends 1 mile south¬ 
ward of both islands. 

Sand Lark reef, 276°, 3J miles from Moutange island, and rather 
over 1 mile from the mainland, is small and low. Shoal water ex¬ 
tends 200 yards off the reef, but its northern side is steep-to. 

A rocky patch with 5 fathoms water over it, lies 101°, 1.4 miles 
from the reef or in a direct line from the reef to the southwestern 
side of Moutange island; as this locality has not been carefully exam¬ 
ined, it should be avoided. 

Quarry island, 2.3 miles long, east and west, with an average 
width of 1^ miles, and about 200 feet high, is separated from Niapisca 
island by a channel nearly 800 yards wide, with a small islet in it, 
but no safe, navigable passage, because of a shoal in the bay to the 
southward, and of a reef which stretches eastward beyond the small 
islet. Reefs also extend 800 yards from the southeastern side of 
Quarry island. 

The eastern part of the island is a peninsula and much smaller 
than the western part. The southwestern point is a small, narrow 
IDeninsula. 

Quarry cove, on the northern side of Quarry island and § mile 
northwestward of the eastern end of the island, is about 450 yards 
wide, and 800 yards deep, with 22 fathoms water in the entrance, 
shoaling gradually to 5 fathoms, with mud bottom, close to its head. 
The islands and shoals along the mainland are 3 miles northward of 
this cove, which thus becomes completely landlocked, but forms a very 


QUARRY CHANNEL-HULK ROCK. 391 

small harbor. In entering keep the western side of the cove close 
aboard, and anchor near the middle in 9 to 10 fathoms. 

Water can be taken from a small stream in the southwestern corner 
of Quarry cove. 

Quarry channel, between Quarry island and Large island, which 
is about 800 yards to the westward, is clear, with a navigable breadth 
of about 650 yards. Approach with the channel bearing 354°, and 
then steer through its middle on that course until 1,200 yards within 
the southwestern point of Quarry island; then keep that island close 
aboard, as it is quite bold on that side to the northward, while shoal 
water extends 300 yards from Large island. 

The flood stream sets northward through this channel, and the ebb 
southward; the rate of both streams is about 1 knot. 

Large island, of an oval shape, 3| miles long, north-northeast and 
south-southwest, 2-J miles wide, and attaining a height of about 200 
feet, is thickly wooded. Reefs of flat limestone extend about J mile 
off its southern and southwestern points, and 300 to 800 yards off its 
western side. The range for the southern end of these reefs in 2 
fathoms is the southern points of Niapisca and Fright islands in line 
79°. On the western side of the island, 1 mile northward of its 
southwestern point, there are many flower pot and arched rocks stand¬ 
ing on the flat limestone above the present high water mark. 

The western side of the island is bold northward of the flower pot 
columns. 

Middle reef, 276°, 2.3 miles from the southwestern point of Large 
island, and just within the line joining the southern points of that 
island and Mingan island, is 4 mile long, nearly north and south, and 
600 yards wide. The centra] point of the reef, about 60 yards across, 
is above water. The eastern side of the two Birch islands in line 
346° leads close along the eastern side of the reef in 4 fathoms. 

Outer Birch island, 1 mil#northward of Middle reef, is about 
1 mile across and 300 feet in height; it has a remarkable flower pot 
rock on its southwestern point. Its eastern side is quite bold, but 
reefs extend 250 yards off its northwestern and southern sides, and 
nearly J mile southwestward of the island. 

Inner Birch island.—The body of this island is about 1 mile long, 
nearly west and east, and a little more than J mile wide; its western 
point is long and low, extending \ mile westward from the body of 
the island, with a curve to the southward; off this point a reef ex¬ 
tends \ mile westward, and there is deep water 200 yards from its 
extreme. 

Hulk rock.—One-half mile southward of the same point lies a 
small low islet, close to the southern point of which is a very re¬ 
markable rock named Hulk rock, from its resemblance to a hulk. 


392 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


This islet and rock are connected to the low western point of Inner 
Birch island by a reef of flat limestone, dry at low water, which ex¬ 
tends 600 yards south-southwestward, and 400 yards westward from 
the rock. Shoal water extends 300 yards off the eastern side of the 
islet. 

From the southern point of Inner Birch island shoal water extends 
\ mile southwestward. 

The channel between Birch islands is 600 yards wide, but the 
ground is all foul, and not more than 4 fathoms could be carried 
through without local knowledge. 

Large channel, between Middle reef and Birch islands on the west 
and Large island on the east, is 1.7 miles wide, and has deep water; 
it should be used b}^ vessels proceeding to Mingan harbor with an 
easterly wind. Those using this channel must look out for the reef 
off the southwestern side of Large island. 

There is little warning by the lead of approach to the Large island 
side, but £ mile eastward of Middle reef there are depths of 13 
fathoms. (See Birch channel, p. 394.) 

Middle Reef channel, between Outer Birch island and Middle 
reef, is almost 1 mile wide, with depths of 12 to 30 fathoms. 

Those using the channel must beware of the reef on the southwest 
side of Outer Birch island. 

Tidal streams.—The flood stream sets southwestward between 
Birch islands, and also through Middle Reef channel. 

Harbor island, 1.7 miles northward of Inner Birch island and 
about 400 yards off the mainland, is 1.8 miles long, east and west, 
£ mile broad, composed of limestone, about 100 feet high, thickly 
wooded, precipitous and bold on its northern side, but shelving and 
shoal for £ mile to the southward from the shore of the island. Reefs 
extend £ mile off the eastern and western ends of the island. 

Wacouta rock, situated with theteastern point of Harbor island 
bearing 51°, distant 1,600 yards, is about 200 yards in length, east and 
west, and quite narrow, with a depth of 10 feet over it. Close on 
its northern side there is a depth of 5 fathoms, but its southern side 
slopes gradually into a depth of 3 fathoms. 

The rock is smooth, flat on top, and sharp at the ends which drop 
gradually into deep water. 

Mingan harbor is the narrow and well sheltered space between 
Harbor island and the mainland, which is low and has a fine sandy 
beach. 

The mainland recedes from the island in the eastern part of the 
harbor, which would be open to easterly winds but for a sandy shoal, 
dry at low water, which extends 1,400 yards from the entrance of 
Mingan river, and affords protection from eastward. Mingan river 


MINGAN HARBOR. 


393 

is capable of admitting boats only at high water, and its mouth is 
northward of the eastern end of the island. The eastern entrance 
of the harbor, between the above sandy shoal and the island, is 400 
yards wide; the western entrance, between the mainland and the 
island, is nearly as wide, the whole breadth in both entrances being 
in deep water. The anchorage space in the harbor is about 1 mile 
long and £ mile wide, with depths of 9 to 13 fathoms over fine sand. 

Although the entrances are narrow, there is little difficulty in 
taking in a vessel of moderate size. 

Directions.—Approach Mingan harbor from the eastward, with 
the northern side of Harbor island bearing 289°, and the houses of 
the Hudson Bay Company’s post open fully their own breadth north¬ 
ward of the island. Steer for those houses so open, leaving the 
eastern end of the island 300 yards to the southward, but keeping 
Sandy point on the mainland, at the western entrance of the harbor, 
shut in behind the northern side of the island, for these points in line 
lead over the southwestern part of the sandy shoal off Mingan river. 
After passing the eastern end of the island, run along its northern 
>ide at the distance of 200 yards, and anchor anywhere near the 
middle of the harbor, in 9 to 13 fathoms, sand bottom. 

From the westward, run in toward the sandy beach of the main¬ 
land at about £ mile westward of the island, until Sandy point, on 
the mainland, at the western entrance of the harbor, is in line with 
the face of the clay cliffs eastward of the Hudson Bay Company’s 
houses, bearing 71°. Bun upon this range along the beach, pass 
Sandy point at the distance of 100 yards, and anchor as above 
directed. 

Mingan harbor is quite secure, and like Eskimo harbor, it has the 
advantage that vessels can enter or leave it with either easterly or 
westerty winds. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, in Mingan harbor at 
lh. 16m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

Communication.—A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every 10 days during the season and calls at 
Mingan harbor. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian telegraph 
system at Mingan. 

Mingan island, 3£ miles westward of Hulk rock, and 4J miles 
westward of Outer Birch island, is If miles long, north and south, 
and, including tAvo small islands close to its Avestern side, nearly 1 
mile broad; it is about 100 feet in height and bare of trees. Shoal 
water extends only 600 yards off its southern point; but to the south - 
westward and westward, the reefs, including the islets, run out 
nearly 1,200 yards. On its northern and eastern sides the island is 
bold/ 


394 


GULP OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Birch channel, between Birch islands and Mingan island, is the 
best channel by which to proceed to Mingan harbor with westerly 
winds, as it is 3 miles wide, deep, and clear of dangers. 

Mingan patch, 191°, 3 miles from the southern point of Mingan 
island, and with the southeastern point of Outer Birch island in line 
with the northern point of Large island, is a patch of rocky ground, 
with 9 fathoms water on it, but with a heavy swell upon it at times. 
Between the patch and the island there are depths of 13 to 22 fathoms 
water. 

The Perroquets, the western islands of the Mingan group, are 
four small islets, low, and bare of trees, lying in two groups £ mile 
apart northwest and southeast. The northwestern islet is the high¬ 
est of the four; it is surrounded with cliffs, and has a superstratum 
of peat on its flat top, in which great numbers of puffins burrow and 
rear their young. The other islet of this group is 300 yards to the 
southeastward. Shoal water extends off the northwestern islet J 
mile both eastward and westward, but at 400 yards northward of it 
there is a depth of 14 fathoms. 

The two eastern islets have a reef of flat limestone extending 
1,400 yards southward, and there is a shoal 600 yards northward of 
them, and a narrow channel between them and the other two, but it 
should not be used for navigation. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 55 feet high, with a red lan¬ 
tern, and with a dwelling attached, on the northwestern Perroquet 
islet, at 83 feet from the northern cliff and 228 feet from the western 
cliff, exhibits, at 87 feet above high water, a revolving white light 
which attains its greatest brilliancy every 30 seconds, and should be 
seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

Mingan island intercepts the light between the bearings of 270° 
and 293°. 

Perroquet channel, Between the Perroquets and Mingan island, 
is 1J miles wide, with depths of 15 to 39 fathoms near its middle. 
Through the channel the flood stream sets south-^southwestward, and 
the ebb south-southeastward. 

Mingan channel lies between Niapisca island and the other 
islands of the Mingan group westward of it, on the south, and the 
mainland and Moniac, Moutange, and Harbor islands, on the north. 
The islands on the southern side of the channel are bold on their 
northern sides, but on the northern side of the channel uneven and 
rocky ground extends about a mile southward of the islands. When 
working in the channel vessels should not stand northward beyond 
1J miles from the outer islands or into less than 10 fathoms, (For 
Wacouta rock, see p. 392.) 


ST. JOHN EIVEE. 


395 


Sounding’s. Banks of soundings, with less than 30 fathoms water, 
extend southward of the Mingan islands, for a distance of 3 miles 
from Walrus island, and 5 miles from Mingan island. There is 
much greater depth of water in some of the channels between the 
islands than there is on these banks. 

The coast of the mainland from Mingan harbor to Long point, 5. 1 , 
miles to the westward, is a fine sandy beach. There is a fishing es¬ 
tablishment on Long point. 

From Long point, a broad beach of fine sand reaches to St. John 
river, and an irregular band of shoal water extends for f mile outside 
this beach. 

Immediately westward of Long point a sandy shoal of 1 to 9 
fathoms extends off the beach to within 1 mile of the Perroquets. 
There is often a great ripple off this shoal caused by the flood or 
west-going stream being turned to the southwestward by Long point. 

Communication.—A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every 10 days during the season and calls at 
Long point. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office of the Canadian telegraph 
system at Long point. 

St. John river.—This large stream flows into the gulf at 6£ miles 
307° from the northwestern Perroquet. It is occasionally frequented 
by fishing schooners early in the season, and boats have ascended its 
course for 6 miles, carrying a depth of 1 to 3 fathoms at low water. 
Above this point there is no tide and the river becomes too rapid to 
be navigated, except by canoes or flat bottomed boats. The course 
of the river, for several miles above the entrance, is between high 
cliffs of stratified sand and gravel over clay, with occasional small 
sandy islands; and at some 16 miles from the sea, following the 
stream, there are said to be high falls over granite rocks. The coun¬ 
try on either side is covered with a thick growth of small spruce 
trees. The entrance of the river, between the clay cliffs on the 
western and a sandy point on the eastern side, is 260 yards wide. 
Immediately within the entrance the breadth increases to nearly 
J mile, and then decreases again gradually, but is nowhere less than 
200 yards in the first 6 miles. 

There were two log houses on the right bank ^ mile within the 
entrance, where a party of men occasionally resided to fish for salmon, 
and vessels anchored close to them in 2 fathoms at low water. 

Bar.—An extensive bar of sand, ^ mile outside the entrance, shifts 
with every gale of wind, and has seldom more than 3 feet over it at 
low water. Southerly and westerly winds cause a heavy surf which 
renders the bar impassable. 


396 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Anchorage.—There is good anchorage outside the bar, which may 
be safely approached by the lead, the soundings decreasing gradually 
from 20 fathoms at 2-J miles to 3 fathoms at § mile from the mouth 
of the river, over sand and clay bottom. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at the entrance of St. 
John river at lh. 20m.; springs rise 7 feet, neaps 4 feet. 

Communication.—A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every 10 days during the season and calls at 
St. John river. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office at St. John river. 

Mount St. John, at 12°, 11 miles from the entrance of St. John 
river, is an isolated saddle backed hill, 1,416 feet high. 

The coast between St. John and Magpie rivers is white cliffs, with 
a superstratum of sand, which is fast consolidating into sandstone by 
means of the red oxide of iron furnished by numerous small streams. 

Magpie hay is 8 miles wide between St. John river and Magpie 
point, which bears 272°, 7J miles from the river. There is good 
anchorage with offshore winds in the bay, and vessels may stand in 
to 7 fathoms at low water in every part of it, but southerly and 
westerly winds roll in a very heavy sea. 

Magpie river, the entrance to which is nearly in the middle of 
Magpie bay, and 295°, 5 miles from St. John river entrance, is a 
large and rapid stream, with several rocks above and under water off 
its eastern entrance point, and nearly f mile offshore. 

The entrance of this river, between steep rocks, is only 60 feet wide, 
and the ebb stream rushes out of it in a torrent 5 fathoms deep. At 
300 yards within this narrow entrance the river falls about 30 feet 
over granite rocks. There are 7 to 9 feet at low water over the bar 
outside, but this river is of no use for navigation even by boats. 

Range lights.—At Rambler cove, Magpie bay, in front of Magpie 
village, just eastward of Magpie point, a pole standing 50 yards back 
from the water’s edge exhibits, at 58 feet above high water, a fixed 
red light that should be visible in clear weather a distance of 9 miles. 

A similar pole, situated 93 yards 305° from the above pole, exhibits 
at 113 feet above high water a similar fixed red light. A white 
diamond shaped slatted target has been attached to the front 
light pole of the range, and a trapezoidal shaped slatted target, 4 
feet wide at the top, 6 feet wide at the bottom, and 6J feet high, has 
been attached to the rear pole. 

The two lights in line 305° lead in to the anchorage in Magpie bay. 
Magpie Bay range lights are intended to indicate the anchorage in 
Rambler cove, and enable vessels entering the cove to avoid two rocks, 
awash at high water, which lie some distance offshore eastward of 
Magpie point. 


MAGPIE RIVER. 


397 


The anchorage for Rambler cove—that is, for Magpie village—is 
between Magpie point and these rocks. 

Rocks.— A rock, with 3 fathoms water on it, is reported to lie 
about 179°, 1 mile from Magpie river entrance, but its existence is 
doubtful. 

Rather more than f mile westward of Magpie river, and nearly 
i mile offshore on the western side of Magpie bay, there is a rocky 
shoal, on which the sea almost always breaks at low water. 

Communication.— A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every 10 days during the season and calls at 
Magpie. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office at Magpie. 

The coast between Magpie and Trout rivers, trending nearly west¬ 
ward, a distance of about 58 miles, is composed of primary rock 
rising immediately from the sea in steep, although often rounded, 
hills, which are either bare or partly wooded with small trees of the 
pine species. The hills nearest the gulf are about 200 to 300 feet in 
height, but at some 24 miles inland is a range rising 500 to 700 feet 
above the sea. 

The appearance of this coast from seaward is slightly undulating, 
bold, unbroken, and of such similarity that it is very difficult to make 
out one part of it from another when the observer is at a distance of 
about 6 miles or more; but upon a nearer approach, the mouths of 
the rivers and the features of the land can generally be seen, and the 
position of a vessel thereby be at least approximately fixed. 

This whole coast from the Mingan islands westward is very dif¬ 
ferent from that to the eastward, being very much less broken and 
much less fringed with islands and rocks; also less barren. 

Caution.— This coast is not so bold as it appears from a distance* 
for there are many rocks off it both above and under water, several of 
which are nearly 1 mile from the shore. 

Unless bound to a place on this coast, between Magpie and Bouleau 
rivers, strangers should not approach it nearer than the depth of 20 
fathoms; and between Bouleau river and St. Charles point nearer 
than 40 fathoms, for that depth in several places is within 1 mile of 
the rocks. 

Local magnetic disturbance. —Black oxide of iron, besides being 
a constituent mineral in the granite rocks of this coast, is found 
abundantly in nests and veins, particularly in the vicinity of Shel¬ 
drake river. Its magnetic action on the needle of a compass on shore 
is such as to cause the variation obtained by it to vary from 14° to 29° 
west. In boats, while sounding, a similar disturbing influence on 
the compass has been sensibly felt, but diminishing or increasing as 
the water deepened or shoaled. In the Gulnare, at about 2 miles 


398 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


from the shore, or within the 50-fathom line, the error from this 
cause never exceeded 6 degrees, and at the distance of about 5 miles it 
became insensible. 

Ridge point lies 261°, 3^ miles from Magpie point. 

Four-fathoms ridge, a narrow ridge of rocky ground with 4 to 6 
fathoms over it at 1ow t water, extends 4J miles, westward from Ridge 
point across a rocky bay, in which there are one large and several 
small rocks above water. The western end of this rocky ground is 
nearly 1 mile southward of Thunder point. A very heavy sea rises 
upon the ridge at times, and it then becomes dangerous to large ves¬ 
sels. There is a depth of 20 fathoms water close outside it in some 
parts, and of 30 fathoms near its western end. 

Cod bank. —From about 2 miles westward of Ridge point a bank of 
sand, gravel, and broken shells extends southwestward 11 miles; the 
depths on it are 34 to 41 fathoms with 52 to 63 fathoms around; cod¬ 
fish abound on this bank. 

At about 6 miles farther in the same direction is a bank about 3 
miles long north and south and 1 mile wide, with 49 fathoms, mud, 
on it, and 52 to 69 fathoms around. 

Sheldrake point lies 263°, 9f miles from Ridge point. 

Communication.— A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
leaves Quebec about every 10 days during the season and calls at 
Thunder river and at Sheldrake. 

Telegraph. —There are telegraph offices at Thunder river, 6 miles 
westward of Ridge point, and at Sheldrake. 

Sheldrake (Sawbill) river flows into the bay between Sheldrake 
point and Ore point, which bears 274°, 3J miles from the former; it 
may be distinguished by the cla}^ cliffs immediately within the en¬ 
trance, and the peculiar hills on either side of it, which are barren and 
of gray feldspar, thickly studded with small round mounds. 

This river affords shelter to boats and small coasting craft, but, in 
consequence of the heavy surf, it can be entered only in very fine 
weather. It has scarcely any bar, but the entrance at the western ex¬ 
tremity of a long and narrow spit of sand, which extends across the 
mouth of the river, is very narrow, with depths of 4 to 11 feet in it, 
according to the time of the tide, at ordinary springs; at high water 
neaps there is seldom more than 9 feet. This depth continues but a 
very short distance within the entrance. 

Shallop river, 6J miles westward of Ore point, affords shelter only 
to boats, and can be entered only when there is no surf. Off this river 
and also off Sandy river, a small stream about 2J miles farther west¬ 
ward, there are several rocks, both above and under water. The outer 
of these rocks lies fully \ mile from the shore. 


MANITOU RIVER-BOULEAU RIVER. 


399 


Communication. —The North Shore steamer calls at Shallop. 

Manitou river, the entrance of which is 274° about 2 miles 
from that of Sandy river, is the largest on this coast, excepting the 
St. John and Moisie rivers, and it may be distinguished by two re¬ 
markable patches of clay cliff, one of which is close eastward, and the 
other about 1 mile westward of its entrance, and both of which are 
visible from many miles seaward. 

Directions. —To enter the river, keep close along the rocky western 
side of Manitou point, the eastern entrance point, leaving on the port 
hand the sandy spit close within the point, which spit stretches out 
from the sandy western entrance point. The channel does not shift 
its position, but is more or less deep and wide according to the season 
and the recent winds. Generally the channel is about 60 yards wide, 
with a depth of 5 feet in it at low water, or 9 feet at high water neaps, 
and 12 feet at high water springs. Strong southerly and westerly 
winds cause a heavy surf, and render the entrance impracticable. A 
short distance within the entrance there are 9 feet at low water, deep¬ 
ening gradually to 5 fathoms at the first rapid, 1 mile up the river. 
Farther up, ^ mile, the river falls in one unbroken sheet of water, 120 
feet perpendicularly, over sienite and porphyry, and forms a most 
beautiful cascade. 

Water may be taken from a small stream on the western shore, a 
Jiort distance within the entrance; or from up the river where the 
water is fresh. 

Anchorage.— There is good anchorage off Manitou river in fine 
weather with the wind offshore in 15 fathoms, mud, with the en¬ 
trance of the river bearing 23°, 1^ miles. 

Small vessels anchor farther inshore westward of the bar and in 
the bay between Manitou point and Buchan point, which bears 274°, 
3 miles from the former. The soundings decrease regularly in toward 
the land, with sand and clay bottom, but there is a small rocky shoal 
at 257°, 2J miles from the entrance of the river and about J mile 
offshore, with a depth of 7 fathoms within it and 9 fathoms close 
outside it. 

Buchan, Tortue (Fall), and Hotteurs rivers fall in cascades 
into the sea, or close to it, between Buchan point and Bouleau river 
entrance, and thus form good marks from seaward; there is, besides, 
a remarkable white patch close westward of Buchan river. 

Bouleau (Bason) river, the entrance of which is 264°, 8 miles 
from Buchan point and 10 miles westward of Manitou river, has 
a spit of large stones extending about 300 yards off its eastern en¬ 
trance point. The entrance is very narrow, with a varying depth, 
which is less or more according to the prevalence or infrequency of 


400 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


southwesterly winds; but there is generally enough water for very 
small coasting craft or large boats. There are rapids J mile within 
the entrance. 

Cape Cormorant, 1J miles westward of Houleau river, is a small 
peninsula, on the inner side of which are the log huts of a trading 
post always occupied, but which are scarcely noticeable from sea¬ 
ward. 

Blaskowitz point lies 5J miles westward of cape Cormorant, and 
between them are Cormorant islets, joined to the mainland at low 
water, and not readily distinguishable from it. 

Cormorant reef, off Cormorant islets, at 248°, 2f miles from cape 
Cormorant, and about 1 mile from the mainland, is small, with a 
least depth of 12 feet over it. From the inner edge of the reef 
Blaskowitz and St. Charles points are in line, bearing 266°, so that 
St. Charles point well open of Blaskowitz point leads southward of 
the reef. 

The coast between cape Cormorant and St. Charles point, lying 
264°, 10^ miles, is fringed with rocks above and below water and is 
broken into coves, two of which are nearly 1 mile deep, full of rocks, 
and afford shelter only to boats. 

St. Charles point has a large cove on its eastern side, and on its 
western side the land trends west-northwestward toward Trout river. 

St. Charles reef, lying off St. Charles point, is so bold that there 
is no warning by the hand lead, and very little by the deep sea lead. 
It is composed of numerous rocks near each other, with a considerable 
depth of water between them; some of the rocks are always above 
water. The outer patches, which are always covered, lie rather more 
than j mile south-southwestward of St. Charles point, and the reef 
continues to the first cove at 1-| miles northwestward of the point, 
but does not there extend so far offshore. 

Caution.— When beating westward vessels should take care not to 
be becalmed westward of St. Charles reef, lest the heavy southwest¬ 
erly swell, which is frequent on this coast, should set toward the 
reef, where the water is too deep to anchor until close to the breakers. 

Moisie (Moisic) bay is situated between St. Charles point and 
Moisie point, which lies 248°, 11 miles. Trout river, a small stream, 
falls into the head of this bay. The shore of the bay, which trends 
west-northwestward 6J miles from St. Charles point to Trout river 
entrance, is rocky, whence a bold sandy beach extends south-south- 
westward to Moisie river. 

The soundings are regular in the bay, with deep water, over clay 
and sand. 

Seal House cove, on the east side of Moisie bay and 2-J miles west- 
northwestward of St. Charles point, affords shelter only to boats. 


MOISIE RIVER. 


401 


On the cove are two log houses, which are occasionally occupied as a 
fishing and trading post. 

Hills. —The granite hills on the northeastern side of Moisie bay 
leave the shore at Trout river and continue northwestward inland 
until they join the ridges in rear of Seven Islands bay. Between 
the hills and the sea there is an extensive tract of low sandy country, 
thickly wooded, which seems to have been formed, in the course of 
time, by the action of the rivers and the sea. 

Moisie river flows into the sea on the eastern side of Moisie point, 
which is the southern extremity of the low sandy country. The river 
is larger than the St. John, and discharges a great quantity of water 
in the spring after the melting of the winter snows, and brings down 
from the interior great quantities of sand, which so obstructs its wide 
and shallow channel in the first 2^ miles from the sea that boats 
can not ascend at low water. 

The entrance of the river is about 600 yards wfide, with a least 
depth of 9 feet. Immediately within the entrance the river becomes 
shallow, expanding into a space 2^ miles w T ide and full of sand bars 
at low water; thence the breadth of the river decreases to J mile at 
2J miles above the entrance, where the sand bars cease. The river 
has then a clear channel, with a depth of 9 feet water, between steep 
sandy banks or cliffs for 1 mile farther, where its breadth is I mile. 
The river has not been examined above this point, where the current 
is rapid in spring. The traders state that flat bottomed boats can 
ascend to the first rapids, at the distance, by the stream, of 20 miles 
from the sea. The bar, which is of sand and dry at half tide, ex¬ 
tends nearly % mile west-southwestward from the long, low, and 
narrow eastern entrance point, and nearly parallel to the eastern side 
of the western entrance (Moisie) point, which is a peninsula. 

The entrance channel of the river, between this bar and the western 
point, has a north-northeasterly direction, and continues for the dis¬ 
tance of 1,200 yards with a breadth of J mile and a depth varying 
with the seasons and the prevailing winds; southerly and easterly 
winds having a tendency to block up the channel. It is supposed 
that there is seldom a less depth than 9 feet at low water under the 
western entrance point, which is the only place where a small vessel 
can find shelter, close to two log houses occasionally employed as 
a salmon fishery by the Hudson Bay company. But the shelter 
afforded here is very imperfect during southerly and easterly gales, 
which send in so heavy a sea that after breaking completely over the 
bar and across the entrance it still causes danger to vessels. 

Tides.—it is high water, full and change, at the entrance of Moisie 
river, at lh. 30m.; springs rise 5 to 8 feet. 

Population. —There were 171 residents at Moisie river in 1901. 


50918—08-26 


402 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Moisie about every 10 days during the season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Moisie river. 

Moisie shoal. —Although the bar of Moisie river is so bold that 
there are 50 fathoms water at the distance of f mile southward and 
southeastward of it, yet the shallow water continues from it 3J miles 
to the west-southwestward, past Moisie point, forming an extensive 
triangular sandy shoal, with 1J to 3 fathoms on it at low water. 

Moisie rock, near the southern part of Moisie shoal, 232°, 2J 
miles from Moisie point, and 1.6 miles from shore, has 3 feet 
water over it. This is an extremely dangerous rock, the 3-fathoms 
line passing about 300 yards southward of the rock, and immediately 
seaward of this line the water deepens to 25 fathoms. The rock can 
generally be seen, in fine weather, from the change in the color of the 
water and from the breakers on it when the sea is heavy. 

There is no close leading mark for avoiding this shoal, but the 
northern point of Manowin island, in line with the southern point of 
Great Boule island 261°, leads 1 mile southward of the edge of the 
shoal, and in over 30 fathoms water. 

Boule bay is situated between Moisie shoal and Sandy point 281°, 
about 8-J miles. 

East rocks, which are low, bare of trees, and always above water, 
lie in Boule bay about 268°, 6| miles from Moisie point, and they are 
out of the way of sailing vessels, which should not stand into this 
embayed place, since there is generally a heavy southerly swell rolling 
in, which would render it difficult to beat out. 

Seven islands are high and steep, composed of primary rocks, 
very thinly wooded, and can be made out from a distance of 20 miles, 
being unlike any other islands in the gulf. The islands are six in 
number, but the peninsula forming the western entrance point of 
Seven Islands bay appears as an island from a distance seaward, 
being 737 feet high, and higher than any of the islands. East and 
West rocks are in the group. 

Little Boule island, 1.7 miles westward of East rocks, and about 
the same distance southward of the mainland, is nearly circular in 
shape, and a little more than f mile across. 

Great Boule island, 300 yards southward of Little Boule, is about 
2.2 miles long, north-northeast and south-southwest, 600 yards to 
1 mile wide, and 695 feet high. The narrow passage between 
Great and Little Boule islands is deep, but the tidal streams in it are 
strong, the flood setting west-southwestward and the ebb east-north¬ 
eastward, and the passage is subject to sudden and baffling flaws of 
wind. 


GREAT BASQUE ISLAND-SEVEN ISLANDS BAY. 403 

Great Basque island, separated from Sandy point by East chan¬ 
nel, and 1.7 miles west-southwestward of Little Boule island, is 1.9 
miles long, north-northwest and south-southeast, nearly 1 mile wide, 
and 500 feet high. 

Little Basque island, J mile southward of Great Basque island, 
is 1.2 miles long, north-northwest and south-southeast, J mile broad 
at its northern end, and tapers to a point at its southern end. 

The passage between Great and Little Basque islands has several 
rocks above water in it, and it is shoal; the tidal streams are strong. 

Manowin and Carousel islands lie west-southwestward of Little 
Basque island, and together extend 2.4 miles northwest and south¬ 
east, with a width of about 800 yards; the islands are separated by a 
channel 6 feet deep and a few yards wide. Manowin, the northern 
island, is 457 feet high; Carousel, the southern, is much lower. 

Light. —A square lighthouse, 39 feet high, with dwelling attached, 
and painted white with one red horizontal band, on Carousel island, 
exhibits, at 190 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 20 miles. 

Fog signal.—A dia phone trumpet operated by compressed air in 
a rectangular white building with a red roof, sounds, during thick 
or foggy weather, 1 blast of 5 seconds duration every 90 seconds: 
Thus, blast 5 seconds, silent interval 85 seconds. 

The trumpet is elevated 184 feet above high water and projects 
from the southern gable of the building in a 142° direction. 

West rocks, between Manowin island and the peninsula which 
forms the western entrance point of Seven Islands bay, are small and 
low. 

Caution. —The narrow pass between Manowin island and West 
rocks is rendered intricate by rocks which nearly cover at high water, 
and dangerous by the tidal streams which set strongly toward and 
through it; the flood westward, and the ebb eastward. 

Seven Islands bay is 2| miles wide at the entrance between Sandy 
point and point Chasse, which bears 246°; the bay thence extends 
about 6 miles northward and westward, with a deep water space 
about 3 miles wide, and nearly landlocked, being completely sheltered 
from seaward by Seven islands. The bottom is of clay, and there 
are no shoals, excepting the mud banks, which fill up the northern 
part of the bay. 

A fine, broad, bold, sandy beach extends 3 miles northwestward 
from Sandy point to the entrance of the principal river, near which 
is the Hudson Bay Company’s trading post. The houses at this post 
can not be seen from the outer parts of the bay, but there is a wooden 
store on the beach. 


404 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


About 4 miles and 8 miles north-northwestward of the bay there 
are two parallel ranges of mountains running east-northeastward 
and west-southwestward; the summits of the nearer range are up¬ 
ward of 1,300, and those of the more distant upward of 1,700 feet 
above the sea. These mountains, the high peninsula, the bold and 
hilly islands, and the other features around the bay, form a scene of 
great beauty. They also render the position of the bay conspicuous. 

Anchorage. —The best anchorage berth in Seven Islands bay for 
a vessel of large draft is in 9 fathoms, clay bottom, with Sandy point 
and the northern side of Little Boule island in line 109°, and point 
Chasse in line with the western side of West rocks 189°. From this 
position the northern end of the sandy beach near the entrance of the 
river bears 0°; the sandy beach to the eastward is distant nearly 1 
mile, and the 3 fathoms edge of the shoals, which occupy the northern 
part of the bay, is distant f mile. Smaller vessels anchor in 6 fath¬ 
oms about 600 yards nearer the wooden store, which is as near as any 
vessel should anchor. 

In this anchorage the swell with a strong southerly wind is consid¬ 
erable, but not enough to endanger a vessel, although sufficient to pre¬ 
vent boats from landing. The anchorage, in 13 fathoms, soft clay, in 
the southwestern part of the bay, is smooth and quite landlocked. 

Clark city is a new (1904) settlement on the western shore of the 
bay. Extensive pulp and saw mills have been constructed on St. 
Margaret river, about 9 miles inland, and a railway has been built 
from the mills to a point called point Noire, on the western side of 
Seven Islands bay, where there is a wharf, which is 1,100 feet long, 
with a depth of 26 feet at low water at its outer end. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Seven islands about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Seven Islands bay. 

Water can be obtained at high tide from the river which flows 
past the Hudson Bay Company ? s post. 

Seven Islands bay approach.—East channel, between Great 
Basque island and Sandy point, is 1,100 yards wide, but there is a 
rock in its middle, covered only at high tides, from which a reef, with 
6 to 9 feet water over it, extends eastward £ mile. The passage on 
either side of the reef is 400 yards wide and has deep water. 

Middle channel, between Basque islands on the east and Carousel, 
Manowin, West rocks, and the peninsula forming the western entrance 
point of Seven Islands bay on the west, is the best channel, being If 
miles wide, and clear of dangers, and deep to within 100 yards off 
the shore, excepting at point Chasse, where a reef extends 250 yards 
from the shore. This channel is preferable for sailing vessels in all 


SEVEN ISLANDS BAY. 


405 


winds except northerly and northwesterly, with which, to prevent 
beating against them, it might be desirable to enter by West channel. 

West channel, between West rocks and point Croix, the southern 
end of the peninsula, is } mile wide, clear of dangers, and deep. 
However, three rocks lie 200 yards northward of West rocks, but 
they always show, except in very high tides and the smoothest sea. 
Therefore, West rocks should not be approached nearer than 400 
yards; the peninsula side of the channel is bold. 

Caution is necessary here during the ebb or east-going stream, 
which, being turned off by point Croix, sets toward West rocks. 

Directions. —East channel is approached from between Boule 
islands and East rocks, or from between Boule and Basque islands, 
both routes being clear of dangers and deep; the islands are so bold 
that any part of them may be approached to the distance of 200 yards. 

In going through East channel, which in a sailing vessel should not 
be attempted without a fair wind, keep 200 yards either from Great 
Basque island, or from Sandy point; the latter is preferable. 

In Middle and West channels simply give the shore a berth of 400 
yards in every part. 

The water is too deep for anchoring in the channels, and the bot¬ 
tom is generally rock, except to the eastward and northward of Boule 
islands. The ground is not fit for anchoring until well into Seven 
Islands bay. The water is very deep outside these islands, which are 
so bold that they may be approached closely. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, in Seven Islands bay, at 
lh. 40m.; springs rise 9 feet, neaps 5 feet. 

The rate of the tidal streams in the bay, and in the principal chan¬ 
nels among Seven islands, seldom reaches 1 knot, but in the narrow 
channels between Boule islands, Basque islands, and in East and 
West channels, it reaches 2 knots at springs, or even more in the nar¬ 
rowest of these channels when accelerated by strong winds. The 
flood setting westward, strikes Boule islands, and passes around and 
between them and Basque islands. That portion which passes south¬ 
ward of Great Boule island turns toward Carousel island and West 
channel; the greater part of the stream, which passes within Boule 
islands, enters Seven Islands bay by East channel. There is very 
little flood stream in Middle channel, excepting an eddy setting out¬ 
ward or southwestward close along the southeastern coast of the 
peninsula, and the narrow stream from between Basque islands, 
which sets across toward West channel. 

The ebb stream sets fairly out of Seven Islands bay, part of it by 
East channel and part o* it by Middle channel, where it meets the 
east-going stream through West channel, which turns it to the east¬ 
ward, past and southward of Basque and Boule islands. 


406 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


Winds. —In fine nights the wind is almost always light and baffling 
among Seven islands, particularly if it is westerly in the offing. At 
such times there is generally a northerly land wind in Seven Islands 
bay, but it seldom reaches far out among the islands in the early part 
of the night, although it often does toward the morning. 

The coast between point Croix and point de Monts, which bears 
217°, distant 62 miles, is of very moderate height, the country near 
the sea being formed of small and low granitic hills, partly wooded 
with spruce trees. Marshes and ponds are frequent between the hills; 
sandy beaches occur occasionally, and the sandy tracts in rear of them 
are always the most densely wooded parts. The higher hills are, 
generally, far inland. The coast between the points mentioned forms 
a large bight about 9 miles deep in its largest part; and in this bight 
are several smaller bights or bays. 

There are no detached dangers off this coast, which is much bolder 
than its appearance indicates; and although the water is deep off 
every point of it, yet, with few exceptions, deep sea soundings give 
warning of approach to the land. (See local magnetic disturbance, 
p. 38.) 

St. Margaret bay. —St. Margaret point bears 245°, 12^ miles from 
point Croix, and St. Margaret bay, lying between, is clear of shoals. 
The water shoals gradually in the bay outside St. Margaret River 
bar, with sand bottom, from 18 fathoms at 1 mile from the 3 fath¬ 
oms line of soundings. There is a sandy beach for a considerable 
distance on either side of the mouth of the river. 

St. Margaret river flows into St. Margaret bay nearly in the 
middle of its head at 6 miles from point Croix, and, although a large 
stream, it affords shelter only to boats. A bar of sand extends f mile 
seaward from the entrance, and has several small channels through it, 
only 3 feet deep. Immediately within the entrance, which" is 350 
yards wide, the water is 6 feet deep, but only 3 feet can be carried up 
to the low falls, which are over granite rocks, 3J miles above the en¬ 
trance. Below the falls the river flows between cliffs of sand and clay 
and is full of sand bars, dry at low water. 

Telegraph station.— There is a telegraph office at St. Margaret 
river. 

St. Margaret point is rocky, of moderate height, and has a 
round hill a short distance back from it. Several rocks, which cover 
at high water, extend nearly £ mile off this point. These rocks are 
very bold, and at 1| miles outside of them there is no bottom at 70 
fathoms. 

The coast between St. Margaret point and Great Cawee island, 
which bears 219°, distant 15J miles, is low, and fringed with small 
islets and rocks close to the shore, which may with caution be closely 


CAWEE ISLANDS. 


407 


approached by the lead, but the depth of 20 fathoms is near enough 
to it in ordinary navigation. Rock river and many other small 
streams discharge into the bay which lies between the point and the 
island. Off this coast the deep sea soundings are very irregular; in 
some parts there is a depth of 50 fathoms at 4 to 5 miles offshore; in 
others, as off May islets, 54 miles north-northeastward of Great Cawee 
island, there is no bottom at 60 fathoms within 2 miles of the rocks. 

Cawee islands are two hilly gray granite islands, nearly bare of 
trees. Great Cawee island, the larger and higher, is triangular in 
shape, each side being about J mile long, and about 250 feet high. 
Little Cawee island, lying 1J miles farther southwestward, is nearly 
600 yards long, northeast and southwest, and 200 yards wide; there 
are several rocks above water close off it to the southwest, and a reef 
extends nearly 400 yards northwestward of its western part. 

An islet, about 200 yards across, lies about 200 yards northeastward 
of this island. 

Water. —There is neither wood nor water in Cawee islands, but 
both can be obtained from the mainland. 

Cawee rock, 205°, 600 yards from the southern point of Great 
Cawee island, is small, round, high, and so bold that a large ship 
might lie alongside of it. 

Great Cawee cove, on the northern side of Great Cawee island, 
is secure for boats, and has plenty of deep water, but its entrance is 
too narrow for vessels. There is a small island at its entrance. 

Great Cawee shoal, 500 yards north-northeastward of the mouth 
of the cove, has a depth of 15 feet water over it. From the shoal, the 
northern end of the island, situated at the entrance of the cove, is in 
line with the point of the mainland to the westward. 

Cawee ledge, 11°, 4 mile from Great Cawee shoal and 600 yards 
off the mainland, is small, round, and awash at low water. From 
the ledge the southern side of Large rocks is in line with the point 
of the main to the westward, and the southern side of Little Cawee 
island is just shut in by the northern side of Great Cawee island. 

Rock. —A small rock above water lies 328°, 600 yards from Great 
Cawee shoal and about 300 yards off the mainland. 

Large rocks, 400 yards west-northwestward from the island at 
the entrance of Great Cawee cove, and 300 yards from the mainland, 
are two large rocks close together; a reef extends southwestward 400 
yards from their southwestern point. 

Anchorage.— There is anchorage in the mouth of the bay on the 
inner or northwestern side of Great Cawee island, in 7 fathoms, mud 
bottom, at 200 yards from the island. It is completely sheltered with 
winds from west-southwest, through west and north, to northeast, 


408 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE-NORTH SHORE. 


and tolerably so with all easterly winds, although some swell rolls 
around the island, but southwesterly winds blow right in, and send 
in a very heavy sea. 

Directions. —For this anchorage from the eastward steer 289°, 
\ mile northeastward of Great Cawee island, to avoid Great Cawee 
shoal, until the point of the mainland to the westward is midway be¬ 
tween the northern side of the island at the entrance of Great Cawee 
cove and Large rocks. Keep this range on until between Large rocks 
and the island, when haul into the mouth of the small bay on the 
northwestern side of Great Cawee island, and anchor in 7 fathoms. 
There are about 12 fathoms in the middle of the channel, and up¬ 
ward of 9 fathoms can be carried through, but the depths are ir¬ 
regular. 

From the westward pass between Little Cawee island and the main 
by keeping in mid-channel; but it is better to run between Little and 
Great Cawee islands, hauling close around the western point of the 
latter into the anchorage. This route is clear, excepting for Cawee 
rock, which is always visible. 

Caution. —This is a very dangerous and intricate place, and the 
anchorage between Great Cawee island and the main is too small for 
large vessels, being only 400 yards wide. It may, however, be 
used as an occasional place of shelter for small vessels, and even as a 
place of refuge for a large vessel in distress, for the ground is so 
good that a vessel well moored there might ride out a summer gale. 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, at Cawee islands at 
lh. 50m.; springs rise 9 feet, neaps 5 feet. The tidal streams run fair 
through between the islands and the mainland, the flood setting south- 
westward, and the ebb northeastward, at a rate which seldom exceeds 
1J knots, and which is generally much less. 

Sproule point of the mainland lies w T est-northwestward f mile 
from Little Cawee island. Keefs extend off it 200 yards toward 
Little Cawee island, and 800 yards south-southwestward. 

Lobster bay is between Sproule point and Crooked islands, which 
are a group of small islets and rocks extending f mile from the 
shore at 3 miles southwestward of Sproule point, and are bold 
to the southward and eastward. Shallow water extends about 800 
yards off the northwestern side of the bay, and its northern part or 
head is occupied by an extensive flat of sand and bowlders, dry at 
low water, on which lobsters abound. The bay is an excellent open 
roadstead, with plenty of room for large vessels. 

There is anchorage in the bay midway between the reef off Sproule 
point and Crooked islands, in from 12 fathoms to 5 fathoms, accord¬ 
ing as the distance is 1^ miles or 1 mile from the 3 fathoms edge 
of the flats in the head of the bay. The bottom is fine sand over clay, 
and the bay is sheltered, except from winds between east-northeast, 


PENTECOTE RIVER-NORTH REEF. 


409 


through east and south to south-southwest, which blow right in, 
with a heavy sea and thick weather. 

Pentecote (Pentecost) river flows into the sea on the south¬ 
western side of a rocky point situated miles southwestward of 
Crooked islands; the southwestern entrance point is sand. Alluvial 
hill, 2 miles south-southwestward of the mouth of the river, is a remark¬ 
able, round and wooded hill. The first reach of the river is toward 
this hill, leaving a very narrow sandy ridge between it and the sea. 
Steep cliffs of sand and clay form the banks of the river for 2J miles, 
to which distance only it is navigable for boats. The entrance of the 
river is 30 yards wide, with a depth of 7 feet, and the river has 9 feet 
within for a short distance; at high water 12 to 16 feet can be carried 
in, so that this river is capable of affording shelter to coasting craft 
as well as boats; but it is very difficult to take a sailing vessel in 
through the narrow entrance, and it is impossible during the ebb 
stream, which is very rapid. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Pentecote about every 10 days during the season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Pentecote river. 

The coast. —A fine, bold, sandy beach extends about southward 
7 miles from Pentecote river entrance to English point. 

English point.— A shoal of large stones extends 600 yards off 
English point, and on the southwestern side the shoal may be ap¬ 
proached to the depth of 6 fathoms at low water, but on the south¬ 
eastern and eastern sides it is very bold, there being 15 fathoms at the 
distance of 600 yards and 30 fathoms at f mile from the 3 fathoms 
line of soundings. 

The land at about 1^ miles behind English point and thence south- 
south westward for about 5 miles is high. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at English point about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph.— There is a telegraph station at English point. 

Egg island, about 188°, 2.2 miles from English point, is about 
j mile long, nearly north and south, narrow, low, and composed of 
granite rocks, without trees. The southern end and western side of 
the island are bold. 

North reef, the southern end of which is 349°, 800 yards from 
Egg island, is 600 yards long, nearly north and south, narrow and 
low, but always above water; it is black and is bold toward the main¬ 
land and also toward English point, from which its northern end is 
distant 1^ miles. A reef under water extends southward J mile from 
these rocks, leaving a very narrow 3-fathoin channel between them 
and Egg island. 


410 


GULF OF ST. LA WHENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Northeast reef extends 1,200 yards from the northeastern point 
of Egg island and is the greatest danger between Seven islands and 
point de Monts. Some of its rocks show at low tides, and the sea 
generally breaks on them at low water. This reef breaks the swell 
rolling in between North reef and Egg island, and is thus a shelter 
to the anchorage. 

Light.—An octagonal lighthouse, built over the keepers’ dwelling 
(the whole being 48 feet high), and painted white with one red ver¬ 
tical stripe, is situated at about 200 yards from the southern end of 
Egg island, and exhibits, at 74 feet above high water, a revolving 
white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy every 90 seconds, 
and should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

Anchorage.—Egg island, with its rocks and reefs, forms a nat¬ 
ural breakwater, 1.3 miles long, which inclines slightly toward the 
coast at its northern end so as, with the shoal off English point, to 
shelter the anchorage from easterly winds. The northern end of 
North reef, the northern part of the breakwater, is distant from the 
mainland nearly f mile, and the southern end of Egg island, the 
southern part of the breakwater, more than 1 mile; but large flats 
extend from the mainland and diminish the navigable breadth of 
the channel to about 600 yards in the narrowest point, which is 
abreast the reef of the mainland southwestward of North reef and 
nearly opposite'the northern end of Egg island. The best anchorage 
is south-southwestward of this narrow part, where the breadth, from 
the 3 fathoms edge of the shoal off the main to Egg island, is 1,200 
yards. 

Along the inner sides of Egg island and of North reef, except near 
their northern ends, the water is deep, from 7 to 20 fathoms, the 
soundings decreasing gradually toward the mainland. The best 
depth to anchor in is about 9 fathoms; the bottom is clay in the deep 
water toward the island, and sand from the depth of 9 fathoms 
toward the mainland. There is little danger of dragging an anchor 
uphill toward the main; but with violent squalls off the land, a 
good scope of cable out is necessary, for should the anchor start a 
vessel might drift on the rocks before she could be brought up. 

It is advisable, in order to have as much room as possible with a 
moderate depth of water, not to anchor northward of a line joining 
the middle of Egg island and Roadstead point, which is a rounded 
point of the mainland bearing 290° from it. The best position is 
with the southern end of Egg island bearing 121° and the inner side 
of North reef 20°. This position is sheltered from north-northeast 
through north to south-southwest by the mainland, and from east- 
southeast to north-northeast by the island, with its rocks and reefs. 
Winds from between south-southwest and east-southeast are seldom 


EGG ISLAND. 


411 


strong, and even with them some shelter may perhaps be found by 
shifting berth to the eastward, where there is 7 fathoms, sand. 

The anchorage at Egg island is too small to be a resort for large 
vessels, but as a place of refuge it might be of value, especially as 
the greater part of the coast is destitute of harbors. 

Directions. —From the southward and westward round the south¬ 
ern end of Egg island, and haul into the anchorage. To run north- 
northeastward through between the island and the main, stand in to 
the northward until English point is open an angle of 6° to the 
northward of North reef, then steer for English point, giving the 
western side of North reef a berth of 200 yards, until J mile north¬ 
eastward of the reef. Then haul eastward out to sea. 

Do not approach Northeast reef, for there are 20 fathoms at the 
distance of J mile from it in every seaward direction, and conse¬ 
quently little warning by the lead. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Egg island at 2h. 
0m.; springs rise 11 feet, neaps 6 feet. 

The rate of the tidal streams between Egg island and the main is 
4 to 1 knot, the flood setting south-southwestward and the ebb north- 
northeastward. A part of the ebb stream sets toward and out 
through the narrow 3 fathoms channel between the island and North 
reef, and a part of the flood comes in through the same channel. 

Water.— There is no water on Egg island, but it can be taken from 
small streams on either side of Roadstead point. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Egg island about every 10 days during the 
season. 

The coast.— Calumet river is a small stream flowing into the sea 
at 231°, 2J miles from Egg island. Along the coast for 1 mile south- 
southwestward of its entrance there are reefs of large stones extend¬ 
ing out 1,200 yards from high-water mark, with a depth of 15 fath¬ 
oms at \ mile seaward of them. South-southwestward of these rocks, 
as far as Trinity bay, the coast is clear, with 20 fathoms at 4 to 1 
mile and 40 fathoms at 2 to 3 miles from it, and may be approached 
with safety if due caution is used. 

Caribou point, 6J miles from Calumet river entrance, is a small 
rocky peninsula, with sandy coves on either side of its isthmus, in 
which boats sometimes shelter. 

Communication.—A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Caribou point about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph station at Caribou point. 


412 


GULF OF ST. LAWRENCE—NORTH SHORE. 


Trinity bay, about 208°, 5J miles from Caribou point, is 2 
miles wide and nearly 1 mile deep, with a fine sandy beach extend¬ 
ing from Trinity river, wdiich flows into the bay about f mile west¬ 
ward of the northeastern entrance point, to the southern entrance 
point of the bay. This point is rocky, and off the northeastern en¬ 
trance point are two low black rocks. The depth of water between 
the entrance points is from 5 to 7 fathoms at low water, over sandy 
bottom. 

Anchorage. —This bay affords excellent anchorage in a moderate 
depth of water, with good ground and plenty of room to weigh in 
any wind. It is a valuable place in westerly winds, for sailing ves¬ 
sels bound up the St. Lawrence, to await an opportunity of proceed¬ 
ing round point de Monts and up the estuary. 

Trinity river is a small and rapid stream, abounding with trout 
and salmon, from which water can be procured only at high water, 
because of the large stones about its entrance. 

Directions. —In approaching Trinity bay, either from the north¬ 
eastward or southwestward, do not close the land to less than the 
depth of 15 fathoms until the bay opens; then haul in and anchor in 
7 fathoms at low water, with Point de Monts lighthouse (seen just 
within a small rock about 1J miles southwestward of the bay) bear¬ 
ing 215°, the outer of the two rocks off the northeastern point of the 
bay 15°, and the entrance of the river 325°; this position is rather 
more than J mile distant, from the southwestern point of the bay. 
Vessels of heavy draft may anchor farther out and in deeper water, 
and small craft in 3 fathoms, close under the southwestern point. 

Communication.— A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Trinity bay about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph. —There are telegraph offices at Trinity bay East and 
Trinity bay West, 2J miles apart. 

Point de Monts lighthouse, close to the sea, southwestward 5 
miles from Trinity bay, and northeastward about 1J miles from point 
de Monts, is circular, 90 feet high, and painted white with two red 
horizontal bands ; it exhibits, at 93 feet above high water,a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 15 miles. 
The light is obscured w T hen bearing southward of 70° by higher land, 
and from northeastward of Caribou point the light is not visible 
southward of 209°. 

Fog signal. —During thick and foggy weather an explosive fog 
signal, giving one report, is fired every 15 minutes from a position 
near Point de Monts lighthouse; if a vessel’s under way fog signal 
is heard in dangerous proximity, an additional signal is fired and 


POINT DE MONTS. 413 

repeated every 5 minutes while the vessel’s fog signal continues to 
be heard. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a signal and 
telegraph station at this lighthouse. 

Caution. —Vessels eastward of point de Monts at night, when the 
land can not be seen, should tack when the light bears 224°, but if 
between Trinity bay and the light, 235° is near enough. Vessels 
may, however, approach closer, using due caution, by the lead. Ves¬ 
sels westward of the light should tack as soon as it bears 60°. 

The bearing on which the light disappears leads only 1 mile from 
the bar off Godbout river. 

Rocks.— A ledge of rocks with 9 feet least water lies 201° from the 
lighthouse, 111° from the point, and ^ mile offshore. 

A rock with 2 fathoms on it lies 179°, J mile from the lighthouse; 
and a rock with a little more water lies 88°, ^ mile from the light¬ 
house. These rocks must be guarded against when making the light 
in thick weather, or when keeping close to the land with a northerly 
wind;.and the depth of 15 fathoms is quite near enough to approach 
them at any time, this depth being not more than 400 yards distant 
from the first, and about twice that distance from the two last of 
these rocks. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at point de Monts at 
Oh. 0m.; springs rise 12 feet, neaps 6 feet. 

Population. —In 1901 there were 529 residents in the neighborhood 
of point de Monts. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at point de Monts about every 10 days during the 


season. 


CHAPTER X. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC-LOWER ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, 
NORTH SHORE—POINT HE MONTS TO SAGUENAY RIVER, 
ANH THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

Variation in 1908. 

Point de Monts_ 24° 15' W. | Port Neuf_ 21° 56' W. 

Bersimis point_ 22° 41' W. Saguenay river_21° 10' W. 

Lower St. Lawrence—North shore. —The land, which on the 
eastern side of point de Monts is rather low, begins to rise immedi¬ 
ately westward of that point, and granite hills, very sparingly 
wooded, and not above 1,000 feet in height, form the north shore of 
the estuary as far as St. Giles point, westward 30J miles from point 
de Monts. This shore is bold, there being little or no warning by the 
lead; nor is there any good anchorage sufficiently roomy for occa¬ 
sional use by shipping. 

St. Augustine cove, 1^ miles westward of point de Monts, af¬ 
fords shelter only to boats. 

Godbout (Goodbout) river, 8J miles westward from point de 
Monts, flows into the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, and has 
a bar of sand, which extends nearly mile from the eastern entrance 
point, dries in great part at low water, and is bold to seaward. There 
is usually at low water not more than 4 to 5 feet over this bar, on 
which a heavy surf very frequently breaks; and the river is of use 
only to boats because of the difficult and narrow entrance, although 
there are 15 to 16 feet of water over the bar at high water springs. 
At this river there is a trading and salmon fishing post of the Hud¬ 
son Bay company, the houses of which are visible from seaward. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Godbout river at 
lh. 52m.; springs rise 11 feeh, neaps 6 feet. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Godbout river about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Godbout river. 

Anchorage. —There are anchorages on either side of the bar of 
Godbout river, but they are too near the shore to be of general use. 


414 







GODBOUT RIVER—ST. NICHOLAS HARBOR. 


415 


The anchorage about midway between the bar and the first rocky 
point westward of it, at or about 1 mile westward of the bar, may 
occasionally be useful to small vessels in easterly winds. 

At this anchorage, which is safe only in summer, the bottom is of 
coarse sand; the tidal streams are weak and irregular, rendering it 
difficult to keep the anchor clear in calm weather; they also frequently 
set toward the shore, coming in with long ripplings parallel to it. 

Directions.—For this anchorage observe that the first rocky point 
westward of the bar and the eastern entrance point of St. Nicholas 
harbor in line, bearing 273°, just clears the bar; therefore keep the 
eastern entrance point of St. Nicholas harbor open until the houses 
at Godbout river bear 20°, when the bar will have been passed. Then 
bring and keep the points in line, anchoring when the eastern end of 
the high clay and wooded banks on the western side of the river, 
where it turns inland, and which can be seen over the sandy beach, 
bears 10°. The houses at Godbout river then bear 60°, cape St. Nicho¬ 
las 257°, and the outer extreme of the bar 88°, and the depth is 6 to 
7 fathoms at low water. Toward the shore the depth is 3^ fathoms 
at the distance of 100 yards and then 3 fathoms for nearly 400 yards 
farther in, whence the water is shoal to the beach, distant about 
J mile from the anchorage. To seaward the water deepens rapidly to 
30 fathoms at the distance of 600 yards. 

St. Nicholas harbor lies westward 7 miles from Godbout bar, and 
is a narrow inlet between granite hills 500 to 700 feet in height, ex¬ 
tending northwestward 1.3 miles; it is so secure that a vessel might 
be placed on shore and repaired; and on the southwestern side a vessel 
can lie alongside the rocks. There is a depth of 9J fathoms in the 
deepest part of the harbor, sandy bottom. 

The breadth of the harbor inside is 380 yards, and at the entrance 
is only 150 yards. The shoals on the eastern side of the entrance dry 
out so far as to leave a channel between them and Cross point, the 
western entrance point of the harbor, only 60 yards wide, with a 
depth of 5 feet at low water springs. 

The .depth that can be carried in at high water is 12 feet at neaps, 
and 17 feet at springs. The bottom in the entrance is sand, with some 
few large stones upon it, which can be seen and avoided if the tide be 
not high enough to pass over them. The entrance is in the middle of 
a small bay, } mile wide and rather more than J mile deep to Cross 
point, which projects into the bay and is rocky, with a small wooden 
cross upon it, ^whence it takes its name. An extensive shoal of sand 
and bowlders, which dries at half tide, extends southwestward nearly 
700 yards from the eastern point of the bay and continues northward 
to the harbor entrance. This shoal, which is quite bold, can always 
be seen, and it completely shuts out the sea from the harbor in south- 
. erly and easterly winds. The shoals on the western side extend 800 


416 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER—NORTH SHORE. 

yards across a small bay westward of Cross point and also 200 yards 
offshore. 

The anchorage between these shoals, in the bay off the mouth of 
the harbor, is only 600 yards wide and is therefore too small to be of 
any use to large vessels, but the ground is good, and the depth con¬ 
venient for anchoring those vessels that can enter, preparatory to 
warping into the harbor. 

The stones on the bar of this harbor might be removed, and it has 
been ascertained, by boring, that the channel could be deepened to 
any desirable extent. 

Directions—Caution. —A southeasterly wind blows into St. Nich¬ 
olas harbor, and is consequently the most favorable wind for running 
in, but if such a wind is strong at high water, when the shoals are 
covered, there is generally some sea outside the narrow entrance; an 
accident then might be serious, and therefore it is onh r in very fine 
weather that the entrance should be attempted with the wind from 
this direction. 

A northwesterly wind blows right out of the harbor, and often 
with great violence. A southwesterly wind is the safest for entering, 
for the entrance and bay outside are then quite smooth; this wind 
will seldom take a vessel completely in, but it usually enables her to 
shoot so far within Cross point that a line may be sent ashore, or a 
kedge sent ahead, to warp into the harbor, and preparations for 
doing this should be made well beforehand. 

Entrance should be made in the last quarter flood; then if the 
ground is touched no damage is caused, and there is time to warp in 
before the tide begins to fall. 

To enter St. Nicholas harbor from off the mouth of the bay, bring 
Cross point to bear 358°, then steer so as to leave it between 50 yards 
and 30 yards distant on the port hand. If the wind permits, run in, 
at the same distance from the western shore, until the water deepens; 
but should the wind fail, or there be light baffling flaws out of the 
harbor, as often happens during westerly winds, send a line to the 
western shore, or anchor underfoot as soon as the way is lost, and 
warp into deep water. 

The shoal water, which may be called the bar, and commences at 
Cross point, continues 400 yards within it, and the channel is rendered 
narrow, by shoals off the eastern shore, for a similar distance farther 
up the harbor. To have as much room as possible, anchor farther in 
than Three rocks, which are large and on the eastern side of the 
harbor. 

To go to sea, wait for a northwesterly wind; or take advantage of 
the land wind in the early morning, which often occurs in fine weather 
when westerly winds prevail; or warp out in a light breeze or calm 
to a position from which sail can be made. 


CAPE ST. NICHOLAS-MANIKUAGAN RIVER. 417 

I 

Tides.— It is high water, full and change, in St. Nicholas harbor 
at lh. 55m.; springs rise .12 feet, neaps 7 feet. 

Water. —There are several small streams on the eastern side of 
St. Nicholas harbor where water can be taken; it can also be taken, 
at high water, from the two small rivers at the head of the harbor. 

Cape St. Nicholas, 216°, 2J miles from Cross point, is a high, bare 
granite point. 

St. Pancras cove, westward 9 miles from cape St. Nicholas, being 
only about 320 yards wide, between steep rocks, and open to the 
southward, with very deep water, is of no use to ships. There is a 
depth of 32 fathoms in its entrance, whence it shoals gradually to 
17 fathoms at J mile from its head. The sea is never heavy in the 
cove, and it affords shelter to boats. 

There is a smaller cove westward of the western entrance point of 
St. Pancras cove, whence the land, which is high and rocky, trends 
about southwestward 2 miles to St. Pancras point. 

Comeau rock, situated about 1,000 yards southward of the east¬ 
ern entrance point of St. Pancras cove, is a circular rocky patch, 
about 50 yards across, with a least depth of 10 feet over it. 

English bay, between St. Pancras point and St. Giles point, 
which bears 222°, distant 3f miles from it, is not a good anchorage, 
as the water in it is deep; a heavy sea rolls into the bay in easterly 
winds, and its shores are high and rocky. Anchorage might be 
obtained close to its western shore in 17 fathoms at low water, and 
a vessel here would be well sheltered from all but easterly winds, 
but the position is very dangerous, for should a strong wind from 
that quarter set in it would not be possible to weather the eastern 
side of Manikuagan shoal during the flood stream. 

Buoys. —There are buoys for local use in English bay. 

Manikuagan (Manicouagan) river. —St. Giles point, the 
northern entrance point of Manikuagan river, is high and rocky, like 
the shore of the St. Lawrence, to the eastward of it. Manikuagan 
point, the southern entrance point of the river, and the northeastern 
end of which bears 217°, 3.3 miles from St. Giles point, is low and 
thickly wooded, with a broad sandy beach, like the shore of the river 
southwestward to Outarde bay. This complete change in the char¬ 
acter of the land indicates to a vessel her approach toward the 
dangerous Manikuagan shoal. 

Manikuagan river flows through narrow channels between shoals 
that dry at low water, and over a bar which extends from St. Giles 
point to the northeastern end of Manikuagan shoal, into Manikua¬ 
gan bay. The shallow channels between the shoals unite in the 
inner entrance of the river at 6 miles westward of St. Giles point, 


50918—08-27 


418 


ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-NORTH SHORE. 


where the river is narrow and about 4 fathoms deep. The falls, 
where the river discharges a great body of water down a narrow and 
sloping channel between steep granite rocks, are 3 miles farther up 
northwestward, and a boat can approach close to them. 

Buoys. —There are buoys for local use in Manikuagan river. 

Anchorage. —The principal channel into the river is on the north¬ 
ern side of its entrance, and Manikuagan hole, a deep place in the 
channel, close to St. Giles point, and extending 11 miles within it, is 
If miles long, about 800 yards wide, with a depth 3 to 5 fathoms, 
mud bottom. Although this place appears completely open to 
easterly winds, no swell of consequence rolls into it, and a vessel well 
moored on its northern side within St. Giles point would probably 
be in safety. To get there it is necessary to pass over the bar which 
extends 2 miles eastward from St. Giles point; this bar has 7 feet over 
it at low water springs. The seaward side of the bar is extremely 
bold, there being 30 fathoms, sand bottom, close to it, and 50 
fathoms, mud bottom, at the distance of 1 mile. The bar then 
sweeps round till it joins Manikuagan shoal, which is dry at low 
water for nearly 5 miles, 52°, from the northern end of Manikuagan 
point. 

Directions. —This is altogether too wild and dangerous a place to 
be of general use for navigation. 

If entering the river from necessity, while seaward of the bar bring 
St. Giles point to bear 236° and steer directly for it, and when the 
head of English bay bears 337° the bar is close-to. Proceed over 
the bar with St. Giles point on the same bearing, 236°, until the 
points on the western side of English bay bear 354°; then steer 
about 213° along the southeastern edge of the shoal, which dries at 
low water off St. Giles point, until the point on the northern side of 
the river, at about 5J miles westward of St. Giles point, opens south¬ 
ward of St. Giles point, when steer to pass St. Giles point at the 
distance of 200 yards and anchor J mile within it, in 3 to 4 fathoms 
at low water. (See Local magnetic disturbance, p. 38.) 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Manikuagan river entrance at 2h. 15m.; springs rise 12 feet, neaps 
7 feet. The ebb stream, setting eastward, runs out over Manikuagan 
bar at the rate of about 11 knots, and the flood, setting westward, 
is nearly as strong. 

Population. —There were 128 residents at Manikuagan in 1891. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Manikuagan about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Manikuagan point is the eastern end of Manikuagan peninsula, 
and it extends northward and southward 3J miles with a curve to 


MANIKUAGAN SHOAL. 


419 


the eastward; the point is low and thickly wooded, with a broad 
sandy beach. 

The coast of the peninsula westward to Outarde point, a distance 
of 12 miles, is low sandy cliffs, with a sandy beach. 

Marine signal and telegraph station. —There is a telegraph 
and signal station at point Paradis, on the southern side of Manikua¬ 
gan point. 

Manikuagan shoal is of sand, with many large bowlders over its 
eastern and southern parts, probably deposited there by the ice. 
The eastern point of this extensive shoal is 2.3 miles, 88°, from St. 
Giles point, and 55° from the northeastern end of Manikaugan point. 

St. Pancras cove bearing 10° leads along the eastern side of the 
shoal, which is so bold that there are 60 fathoms of water at the dis¬ 
tance of little more than 1J miles, and 40 fathoms at half that dis¬ 
tance from the breakers; this side of the shoal dries nearly out to its 
edge at low tides. The southern point of the shoal extends 2J miles 
southward of the southern end of Manikuagan point, and here only is 
there any sufficient warning by the deep sea lead; with the -southern 
end of Manikuagan point bearing between 337° and 303° there is a 
depth of 60 fathoms, very fine sand bottom, at 3J miles from the 
3-fathom line, toward which the water shoals gradually, till close to 
it, where there are 17 fathoms. The shoal dries out at low tides in 
this part, and also farther westward, from 1 to 1J miles from the 
beach. 

The shoal continues from its southern point 16 miles southwest- 
ward, the outline of its edge corresponding to the shape of the sandy 
coast of the peninsula as far as Outarde point, off which it extends 
1J mile southward, and, filling up all the eastern part of Outarde 
bay, stretches out its western part southwestward fully 3J miles from 
Outarde point. This western part of the shoal is the Outarde shoal. 

Whistling buoy.—A conical red whistling buoy is moored in 34 
fathoms about J mile from the edge of Manikuagan shoal, with the 
southern end of Manikuagan point bearing 323°, distant 3J miles. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Outarde point. 

Tidal streams. —The tidal streams are tolerably regular and not 
very strong along Manikuagan shoal, the rate of either stream not 
exceeding 2 knots at any time, and being usually much less. There is 
often a heavy sea, particularly in a windward tide, off the shoal, and 
great ripplings are very common off its eastern and southern parts, 
where they have been observed to move faster than the tidal streams; 
they often give to the streams an appearance of a rapidity which 
does not exist. 

Outarde river flows southwestward into Outarde bay northward 
of Outarde point. This river can be ascended by boats to the fall*?, 


420 


ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-NORTH SHORE. 


which are over granite rocks, and are 7 miles above the point. These 
falls are only If miles from Manikuagan river, and the two rivers 
therefore form the low, sandy country between Outarde and Mani¬ 
kuagan points into a great peninsula. 

Outarde river is entered by several intricate and narrow channels 
through Outarde shoal in which, for the distance of about 4 miles, 
there are only 2 to 3 feet of water at low tide. 

The water of this river holds a white earth in suspension, and fre¬ 
quently covers the whole of Outarde bay, floating on the heavier sea 
water, and giving the bay the appearance of being shoal. A vessel 
passing through this superstratum of fresh water displaces it, and 
leaves a blue streak in her wake. 

Outarde bay lies between Outarde point and Bersimis point, 
which bears 217°, 9f miles from it, and the bay has in it three small 
rocky islands which appear as two from seaward and serve to indi¬ 
cate the position of the bay; they are far within the edge of the 
shoal, which extends quite round the bay. 

Anchorage. —Good anchorage can be obtained in Outarde bay, in 
14 fathoms, mud, with Bersimis point bearing 190°, 3f miles, and 
Manikuagan point 64°; this position is nearly -J mile from the 3 
fathoms edge of the shoal on the western side of the bay. 

There is also anchorage for a distance of f mile on either side of 
this position, either toward Bersimis point, or toward the small 
islands to the northeastward, but the above berth is the best. Small 
vessels may lie closer to the shoal to the westward in 6 fathoms. This 
anchorage is excellent in westerly gales, and may occasionally be very 
useful to vessels bound up the St. Lawrence. 

Directions. —Approaching this anchorage from the westward, 
beware of Bersimis River bar, which is extremely steep. The rocky 
point situated 0°, 5 miles from Bersimis point, bearing 336° or west¬ 
ward of that, leads eastward of Bersimis River bar. After passing 
the bar haul in to the northward for the anchorage, but do not reduce 
the depth to less than 10 fathoms. 

Tidal streams. —The rate of the ebb tidal stream seldom exceeds 
2 knots, and that of the flood is much less. The direction of these 
streams in the western part of Outarde bay is reversed by the effect 
of Outarde river, so that the flood sets north-northwestward and 
north-northeastward, and the ebb south-southwestward and east- 
southeastward. 

Bersimis river flows east-southeastward and enters the sea on the 
northern side of Bersimis point, which for f mile from its extreme 
is low and bare sand. The northern entrance point of the river is 
also sand, and it bears 314°, 1 mile from Bersimis point, but the wide 
mouth of the river between the two points is closed by sands dry 


BERSIMIS RIVER. 


421 


at low water, with the exception of a very narrow channel. The 
river for 3 miles within the entrance is wide and full of sand shoals. 

Range light-beacons. —Two white masts, each surmounted by a 
white diamond, are erected on the beach within the northern entrance 
point of Bersimis river. The masts are 360 feet apart, the outer 
one being 20 feet and the inner one 30 feet high. Each mast exhibits 
a fixed white light, which is visible through a small arc on both sides 
of their line of bearing, and should be seen in clear weather a 
distance of 5 miles. The outer light is 30 feet and the inner 40 
feet above high water. The beacons, or their lights, in line, bearing 
297°, lead in 4 feet at law water over the bar. The masts are capable 
of being moved to suit the frequent changes in the position of the 
channel. 

The bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water and shifts fre¬ 
quently, being completely open to southerly and easterly gales; it 
extends nearly 1J miles eastward of Bersimis point. Within the 
bar the channel is always close to Bersimis point, and keeps on that 
(southern) side inward through the wide part, with a depth of 9 
feet at low water. 

Bersimis river is difficult to enter, but small vessels used to be taken 
in by local pilots. 

This river discharges a great volume of water, especially in spring, 
and the water at 2 miles within its entrance is fresh enough at the last 
of the ebb for drinking. The river is navigable to the falls, which are 
30 to 40 feet high, and over granite rocks, and are nearly 40 miles 
distant from the entrance, by the course of the river. The banks of 
the river are high and precipitous, being either granite or cliffs of 
sand and gravel over clay. The basins and valleys between the hills 
are filled with the last-named deposits, which support a thick 
growth of trees of the pine and spruce species; and good timber is 
to be met with occasionally. The breadth of the river varies from 
200 to 600 yards, and its depth is usually 2 to 5 fathoms; there is 
one place in which the depth amounts to 12 fathoms, but a depth of 
2 fathoms is as much as could be carried up the foot of the falls. 

At 6 miles up the river the channel is contracted by shoals of sand 
and bowlders to the breadth of 100 yards for a distance of 1 mile. 
Through this narrow part the rate of the ebb stream is 4 knots; above 
it, the rate is 1 to 2J knots. Boats could row up this river to the 
foot of the falls, and a steamer could ascend it with ease, but the 
winds are generally too light and baffling between its high banks for 
a sailing vessel. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Bersimis river at 
2h. 0m.; springs rise 12 feet, neaps 7 feet. The flood tidal stream is 
felt 10 miles up the river. 


422 


ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER-NORTH SHORE. 


Telegraph. —There is a telegraph station at Bersimis. 

Bersimis point is low sand and difficult to be seen at night; at 2 
miles from the point the land becomes wooded with spruce trees. 
Southward of the point the sand shoal extends f mile from the sandy 
beach, yet it is so bold that the lead affords no warning, there being 
CO fathoms, mud bottom, at 1 mile from the edge of the shoal. The 
whole shoal around the point is equally steep, so that caution is re¬ 
quired in this vicinity, especially by vessels beating at night or in 
foggy weather. 

The shore from the southern extreme of Bersimis Point peninsula 
trends approximately southwestward 17 miles to Laval island, and 
thence southward 13 miles to Mille Vaches point. In all this dis¬ 
tance, if the extreme points be excepted, the soundings afford some 
warning of approach to the shore, but in places great caution is neces¬ 
sary. 

Tidal streams.— The tidal streams are regular, but the flood is 
rather stronger than the ebb within 6 miles of the shore, where the 
rate of either stream seldom exceeds 14 knots, and is often much less. 

Jeremy island. —The shore from Bersimis point is low and 
sandy for 5J miles southwestward to Jeremy island, which is very 
small, rocky, and close to the mainland, where there is a trading post 
of the Hudson Bay company. The buildings of this trading post 
can usually be seen, but if not, its position is indicated by some 
patches of white sand and clay cliffs, close eastward of the island. 
Vessels may stand in and anchor off this place by the lead, but the 
anchorage is bad, and shoal water extends 1 mile from the shore. 

Cape Colombier. —A rocky and broken shore trends from Jeremy 
island southwestward 5 miles to cape Colombier, which is a rocky 
peninsula, with a small islet on its western side. 

Gulnare shoal is a narrow ridge of granite rock about 2 miles 
long, parallel to the coast, with depths of 2 to 3 fathoms over it at 
low water. The southwestern end of this shoal bears 169° and its 
northeastern end 96° from the eastern point of cape Colombier, from 
which both ends of the shoal are distant If miles. The northern end 
of Laval island, nearly in line with point Orient, which lies 234°, 
miles from cape Colombier, bearing 252°, leads 400 yards southward 
of this shoal in 20 fathoms water. There is a depth of 23 fathoms 
close to the southwestern end of the shoal, and also along its south¬ 
ern side, while there are 3 to 5 fathoms between it and the shore. 

Plongeur bay, which lies between cape Colombier and Wildfowl 
reef, may be known by a round and rocky peninsula on its western 
side. The inner part of the bay is full of rocks dry at low water, 
and the whole bay is shoal. 


WILDFOWL REEF—PORTNEUF RIVER. 


423 


Wildfowl reef, the outer part of which is southwest 4 miles from 
cape Colombier, is a large bed of rocks extending f mile from the 
shore between Plongeur bay and point Orient. There are 9 fathoms 
water at 600 yards outside this reef. 

Caution is necessary when standing toward the shore from Gul- 
nare shoal to Wildfowl reef, inclusive; the depth of 30 fathoms is 
quite near enough. But southwestward of the reef, until within 2 
miles of Portneuf, vessels may, with safety, stand in to 6 fathoms 
at low water. 

Laval bay is situated within Laval island at 4 miles westward of 
Wildfowd reef, and 13°, 8J miles from Portneuf. The bay may be 
recognized by Laval island, which is rock}^. 

Laval bay is all dry at low water, but vessels may safely stand in 
toward it, the water shoaling gradually from 10 fathoms at 2J miles 
from the shore. There is good anchorage in 6 fathoms, clay bottom, 
olf the clay cliffs southwestward of the bay. 

The shore. —Clay cliffs commence at 1J miles southwestward of 
Laval bay and continue for nearly 5J miles, whence a low, narrow, 
and sandy peninsula, having on it a clump of pine trees, and form¬ 
ing the eastern side of Portneuf river entrance, extends southward 
2 miles. 

Light. —A square lighthouse, 38 feet high, painted white with two 
red vertical stripes, near the end of the peninsula, exhibits, at 40 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 11 miles. 

Marine signal station. —There is a signal and telegraph station 
at this lighthouse. 

Portneuf river entrance runs northward between the sandy penin¬ 
sula above mentioned and the mainland, but it is nearly dry at low 
water. Within the junction of the peninsula with the sand and clay 
cliffs the river turns abruptly westward and inland; below that 
turn its sandy channel is too shallow for a boat at low water, and 
at 1£ miles above it rapids commence. At high water neaps 7 feet, 
and at high water springs 12 feet of water may be carried in be¬ 
tween the peninsula and the mainland, and a small vessel may lie 
safely aground on the sand. (See Local magnetic disturbance, 
p. 38.) 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Portneuf, on the west¬ 
ern shore, at \ a mile within the entrance, at 2h. 10m:; springs rise 14 
feet, neaps 8J feet. 

Portneuf is situated on the western shore of the river entrance 
321°, f mile from the end of the peninsula; at this port there is an 
establishment belonging to the Hudson Bay company, who have a 


424 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER—NORTH SHORE. 

lease of the seigniory of Portneuf. This post and salmon fishery 
stands upon a steep sandy bank, and contains a small wooden church 
for the Indians, a dwelling house, a store, and several smaller build¬ 
ings, which are visible from seaward. 

Portneuf sands. —The eastern patch of these shoals, with 3f fath¬ 
oms least water, lies about 57°, 1 j miles from the southern end of the 
sand and clay cliffs at the northern end of the peninsula. The sands 
extend nearly 1 mile eastward of the peninsula, whence they con¬ 
tinue southwestward; at about 2 miles from the end of the penin¬ 
sula their edge is 1J- miles from the beach, and it then turns to a posi¬ 
tion about 1 mile southeastward of Mille Vaches point. The sands 
are steep between the bearings 68° from Portneuf, and 158° from 
Mille Vaches point, where there are 20 to 30 fathoms close along their 
edge, and 40 to 50 fathoms at the distance of 1 mile. 

Mille Vaches point, 216°, 4 miles from Portneuf lighthouse, is 
low, sandy, and wooded with spruce trees. Between this point and 
Bicquette island the shoals on either side of the river are so bold and 
the set of the tidal streams and currents so uncertain that great cau¬ 
tion is necessary when running up in foggy weather. 

Mille Vaches bay lies between Mille Vaches point and Esqua- 
mine islets, which bear 217°, distant 11J miles from the point; and 
several small rivers descend by falls or rapids down the granite shores 
into the bay. The principal of these rivers is Mille Vaches (Saut de 
Mouton), 254°, 4J miles from Mille Vaches point; this river has a 
fall of 80 feet, visible from seaward when abreast of it. 

All the interior of this bay is occupied by shoals of sand, mud, and 
large bowlders, which dry at low water. In the western part of the 
bay the shoals are steep, but in the space of 44 miles, comprised be¬ 
tween Mille Vaches point bearing 338° and Mille Vaches river bearing 
338°, there is good warning by the lead, the depth being 30 fathoms 
at 2 to 3 miles from the 3 fathoms edge of the shoals. 

Anchorage. —There is anchorage in Mille Vaches bay in 15 fath¬ 
oms, sand and mud bottom, with Mille Vaches point in line with the 
inner or northern side of the pine trees on the peninsula of Portneuf, 
bearing 34°, about 3 miles from the point, and J mile from the shoals, 
sheltered from southwest, through north, to north-northeast. The 
ground is good and there is not much tide. 

Population. —There were about 1,150 inhabitants in the neigbor- 
hood of Mille Vaches bay in 1901. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Mille Vaches. 

Esquamine islets (lies Escoumains) are two large rocks nearly 
12 miles southwestward from Mille Vaches point, and have three 
small rocks nearly 1 mile southward of them. 


ESCOUMAINS RIVER—BERGERON VILLAGE. 425 

The shore from these islets to Little Bergeron cove, 16 miles south- 
westward, consists of granite rock, steep and bold, and free from dan¬ 
ger, excepting a flat which occupies the bay southwestward of cape 
Bon Desir, but which does not extend more than £ mile outside a 
line joining the points of the bay. Along this shore there are up¬ 
ward of 50 fathoms water close to the rocks. 

Escoumains river is a considerable stream situated 5 miles south- 
westward of Esquamine islets. There are numerous bowlders in the 
entrance, and these are being removed. A small bank with 7 fathoms 
water, on which vessels anchor to load wood, lies off the southern 
entrance point. 

On the northern side of the entrance is a large settlement with a 
population of 490 in 1901, and containing a saw and pulp mill and 
a church. 

Range lights. —At Escoumains two masts, 20 and 25 feet high, 
respectively, exhibit at 30 feet and 47 feet above high water fixed 
red lights that should be seen on the range line in clear weather a 
distance of 2 miles. 

The front mast stands on the edge of the public road about 100 
feet back from the shore, a short distance southward of the church, 
on ground 10 feet above high-water mark. 

The rear mast stands 402 feet, 286° from the front mast, and the 
masts or their lights in line lead into Escoumains harbor clear of all 
dangers. But they can be used only by small craft with local knowl¬ 
edge. 

Communication. —A vessel of the North Shore Steamship line 
from Quebec calls at Escoumains about every 10 days during the 
season. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Escoumains. 

Bon Desir bay, about 4£ miles southwestward of Escoumains 
river, is frequented by schooners to load cord wood and timber; the 
entrance of the bay is much obstructed by bowlders. 

Great and Little Bergeron coves are two small bays, separated 
by Bergeron point; both are full of large bowlders, which dry at 
low water, and both have small streams flowing into their heads. 
Little Bergeron cove is the southwestern one, and it is 6 miles north¬ 
eastward of Saguenay river entrance. In both these coves the bowl¬ 
ders have been removed for some distance in the channels to the 
streams, and a landing pier with 8 feet water at its outer end is built 
at Great Bergeron. 

Bergeron village contains a church, post-office, four sawmills, 
and tv r o cheese factories. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Great Bergeron. 


426 ST. LAWRENCE LOWER RIVER—NORTH SHORE. 

Tidal streams.— The tidal streams along this part of the coast are 
regular, with a rate increasing as the comparatively narrow pass on 
either side of Red islet is approached. The flood is the stronger 
stream, the ebb being deflected toward the southern shore by the 
stream out of Saguenay river. The flood does not extend more than 
6 miles off the northern shore below Bergeron coves, and the closer 
to that shore the stronger is the stream; its rate off Mille Vaches 
point, where it does not extend far from shore, is 1J to 2 knots; and 
off Bergeron coves 2 to 3 knots, at springs. 

Saguenay River. 

Saguenay river, which enters the St. Lawrence between point 
Vaches and Lark point, is a very remarkable and extraordinary river, 
inasmuch as it nearly resembles a long and narrow mountain loch 
for the first 50 miles above its confluence with the St. Lawrence. 

In this distance the Saguenay is from 1,200 yards to 2 miles wide, 
filling up a deep transverse valley through mountains of sienitic 
granite and gneiss. These mountains rise everywhere more or less 
abruptly from the water, forming, in places, precipitous headlands 
over 1,000 feet in height, and, when seen one beyond the other up 
magnificent reaches of the river many miles in length, they produce 
scenery which, although wild and barren, is yet full of grandeur and 
beauty. The granite hills are generally quite bare, but the valleys, 
through which the rapid tributary streams descend, are filled with a 
deep deposit of sand and clay, and are thickly wooded. At Ha Ha 
bay and at Chicoutimi there are considerable tracts of good land, as 
there are also around lake St. John. This country now is becoming 
rapidly settled. 

Within the part of the Saguenay where the mountains of the banks 
are highest the water is almost as deep as the mountains are high. 
Between the shoals at the entrance of the river there is a bar, on 
which there are 11 fathoms water; within the bar the depth increases 
to 20 and 80 fathoms, while above point Noire, for a distance of many 
miles, the depth reaches from 100 to 147 fathoms in the middle of 
the channel, and 100 fathoms on either side, often within less than 
the same number of feet of the precipitous shores. It is this great 
depth, the mountainous shores, and the impetuous stream that have 
rendered the Saguenay so celebrated, and that render its features so 
remarkable. The bed of the Saguenay, for many miles, is over 100 
fathoms below that of the St. Lawrence at their point of junction; so 
that if the waters were to fall sufficiently to lay dry the bed of the 
latter river there would still remain a depth of more than 100 
fathoms in the Saguenay. 


PILOTS—TIDES AND TIDAL STREAks. 427 

There are anchorages occasionally, but they are some miles apart, 
and there are none, of course, in the great depths between them. In 
the case of a vessel becalmed, however, there is little or no danger, 
since there are no shoals in the channel when once within the entrance, 
and a boat ahead serves to keep her clear of the shore, while in a few 
places, perhaps, a line might be made fast to the rocks. 

The Saguenay is navigable for large ships nearly to point Roches, 
57 miles from the St. Lawrence; and small vessels (sailing vessels re¬ 
quire the assistance of the flood stream) can ascend to Chicoutimi, 8 
miles farther. Just above point Roches the river suddenly shoals, and 
there are only 7 feet water in its narrow and intricate channels, 
which lie between shoals composed of large bowlders. Above this 
shallowest part, where at low water there is a complete rapid, the 
depth, between shoals of large stones, varies from 2 to 8 fathoms, and 
the river contracts to little more than J mile in width, retaining that 
breadth nearly to Terres Rompues rapid at 6 miles above Chicoutimi. 

The Saguenay discharges the water of lake St. John, contributing 
to the St. Lawrence a quantity of water inferior only to that which is 
supplied by the Ottawa. 

Pilots. —The pilotage service on the Saguenay is under the con¬ 
trol of the Canadian minister of marine and fisheries. The Sague¬ 
nay is not within the port of Quebec. Special pilots stationed at 
Father point are employed for the Saquenay. 

Communication. —There is daily steam communication during the 
summer from Quebec, the vessels calling at Tadoussac, Chicoutimi, 
Ha Ha bay, St. Jean bay, and again at Tadoussac in the order given. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Tadoussac, at the entrance of the Saguenay, at 2h. 45m.; springs rise 
17 feet, neaps 10 feet. 

At Chicoutimi it is high water, full and change, at 4h. 11m.; 
springs rise 12 feet, neaps 8 feet. 

Approximate height of the tide at every hour after low and high 
water ordinary springs: 


Place. 

Hours 
after low 
water. 

Flood 

tide. 

Hours 
after high 
water. ! 

Ebb 

tide. 






h. m. 

Ft. in. 

h. 

m. | 

Ft. 

in 

At Tadoussac. 




0 0 

0 

0 

0 

0 ! 

17 

0 





1 0 

1 

3 

1 

0 

15 

0 





2 0 

4 

6 

2 

0 

12 

0 





3 0 

8 

0 

3 

0 

8 

0 




# 

4 0 

12 

0 

4 

0 

4 

0 





5 0 

15 

6 

5 

0 

1 

0 





6 8 

17 

0 

6 

16 

• 0 

0 


As the whole rise and fall at neaps is less than at springs, the pro¬ 
portionate part of the rise and fall for every hour is also less, and an 
allowance must be made accordingly. 












428 


SAGUENAY RIVER. 


At Tadoussac, the duration of the flood stream is 6h. 8m., and 
that of the ebb 6h. 15m. 

The flood stream in the Saguenay is very weak, and above St. Mar¬ 
guerite river it is almost imperceptible, excepting a weak stream close 
to the shores. The water, however, has been observed at the depth of 
several fathoms to flow up, while on the surface it was stationary or 
descending. The tide flows to Terres Rompues rapid, about 6 miles 
above Chicoutimi, and 71 miles from the St. Lawrence. The rate 
of the ebb stream varies from 3 to 5 knots, according to the breadth of 
the river; it is strongest in the mouth of the river, where it some¬ 
times runs at the rate of 7 knots, and sets strongly over Lark Islet reef 
and Point Vaches reef. 

The meeting of the spring ebb streams down the Saguenay and the 
St. Lawrence causes breaking and whirling eddies and ripplings, so 
strong as to interfere with the steerage of a vessel, unless kept at a 
good speed. These streams, opposed to a heavy northeasterly gale, 
cause an exceedingly high, cross, and breaking sea, in which no boat 
could live, and which is even considered dangerous to small vessels. 
On the flood, at such times, there is not more sea near the Saguenay 
than in other parts of the St. Lawrence. 

The following remarks on the currents in the Saguenay were made 
in a report to the Canadian government in 1875: 

From St. Jean bay to point Roches, situated 36 miles to the north¬ 
westward, the surface stream is not strong at any time; in many parts 
there is a variable undercurrent, especially during springs, strong 
with the flood, but scarcely perceptible during the ebb. This under¬ 
current acting on sailing vessels drawing from 19 to 25 feet, some¬ 
times renders them unmanageable even when assisted by a tug. 

From point Roches to the entrance of Chicoutimi river the stream 
is steady and even, in some parts setting on to the shoals, but without 
any undercurrent. 

At springs a large body of water passes over Chicoutimi shoals (at 
a very rapid rate during the ebb), and falling suddenly into deep 
water, seems to strike downward at once, leaving but a slight stream 
on the surface. The strong flood streams over the bar at the entrance 
of the Saguenay, falling suddenly into deep water may also con¬ 
tribute to a certain extent to checking the strength of the surface 
current of the river. • 

Tide tables for Tadoussac and Chicoutimi are published by the 
Canadian department of marine* and fisheries, and by the U. S. 
Coast and Geodetic Survey. 

Entrance of the Saguenay. —Lark point and point Vaches, Lark 
islet, the entrance points of the Saguenay, and the reefs off them, 
together with the leading marks and buoys for clearing them, as far 


SAGUENAY RIVER ENTRANCE-TADOUSSAC. 


429 


as required for navigating the St. Lawrence, also the anchorages of 
Moulin Baude and of Basque road, are described in pages 455^57. 

The entrance channel between Prince shoal, Bar reef, and Lark 
Islet reef on the south, and Vaches patch and reef on the north, is J 
mile wide, with deep water and very irregular soundings. The shal¬ 
lowest part is on the bar between Bar reef and Vaches patch, where 
there is a least depth of 11 fathoms; immediately within the bar the 
depth increases, and off point Rouge it exceeds 80 fathoms. The 
river is J mile wide from point Hot, the northwestern point of 
Tadoussac harbor, marked by a beacon, across to point Noire, which 
point has a curious white mark on its southern side. 

Lights—Buoys. —For the light on Lark islet, lightvessel on 
Prince shoal, and buoys at the entrance of the Saguena}^, see pages 
455 and 456. 

Range lights.—A square white tower with sloping sides, 27 feet 
high, near the eastern extreme of point Noire, exhibits at 60 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, that should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 13 miles. 

A square white tower with sloping sides, 27 feet high, situated 
279°, 519 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 131 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, that should be seen in clear 
weather, a distance of 15 miles. 

These lights in line, 279°, lead into Saguenay river between Vaches 
patch on the north and Prince shoal and Bar reef on the south, but 
vessels of heavy draft must keep the rear light slightly open north¬ 
ward of the front light, or the range a little open on the port bow, 
until past Bar reef. 

St. Catherine bay is on the southern side of the entrance of the 
Saguenay, between Lark islet and point Noire, and it affords anchor¬ 
age in 20 to 30 fathoms water, out of the strength of the streams, but 
exposed to considerable swell in easterly winds. On the northwestern 
side of this bay there are several large iron rings in the steep granite 
shore, which were probably used for mooring or heaving down ves- 
vels in the time of the French. 

Tadoussac (Tadousac) harbor, on the northern side of the en- 
trans of the Saguenay at 1 mile within point Vaches, is a bay 
lying between points Rouge and Ilot, with a sandy beach at its head, 
and is 1,200 yards wide and 800 yards deep. The anchorage is in 
7 to 18 fathoms, clay bottom. Vessels must moor, with a heavy 
anchor, ,close inshore, for the gusts from the northwestward are vio¬ 
lent at times, and should the anchor start there would be little chance 
of bringing up again before the vessel had dragged her anchor down 
hill into deep water; and, although the anchorage is out of the regu¬ 
lar tidal streams, yet eddies often set into the bay, causing a vessel 


430 


SAGUENAY RIVER. 


to swing around several times in a tide, so that it is almost impossible 
to keep a clear anchor. 

The harbor is completely sheltered by either land or reefs, except¬ 
ing toward the southeastward, and there Red islet and the southern 
shore of the St. Lawrence beyond it, at no great distance, prevent any 
sea, of consequence even to a boat, from entering the harbor. 

Tadoussac village is situated on a semicircular terrace of sand 
and clay at the head of the bay, which is backed by steep, high, and 
rugged hills of granite. It is the chief town of Saguenay county, and 
a watering place much frequented by tourists during summer. The 
village contains three churches (one of which is the oldest church in 
Canada, having been erected in 1747), four hotels and stores, a tele¬ 
graph office, and many handsome villas. It was formerly the prin¬ 
cipal of those posts for trading with the Indians which were known 
as the King’s Posts, were leased to the Hudson Bay company in 
1829.® 

The village contained 511 inhabitants in 1901. 

Supplies in small quantities may be obtained here. 

Communication.— There is daily communication during summer, 
from June to October, with Quebec by steamer. 

Telegraph.— There is a telegraph office at Tadoussac. 

L’anse a l’Eau, the small cove next westward of Tadoussac, is the 
seat of a fish hatchery, and has a wharf on its northern shore where 
the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation company lie. 
The telegraph cable that crosses the Saguenay is landed in this cove. 

La Boule point is a high and round-backed hill, forming a steep 
headland, at 4 miles above Tadoussac, and is the extreme point seen 
on the northeastern side of the river. 

Directions. —Winds from south-southwest, through south to north- 
northeast, enable sailing vessels to enter the Saguenay on the flood 
tide. Southwesterly winds, which prevail in summer, do not blow 
far up, and vessels are then becalmed under the mountainous shores; 
but northeasterly winds, or winds up the St. Lawrence, draw also 
up the Saguenay, and are the only winds which can be depended on 
for running a vessel up to the anchorages above Tadoussac. North¬ 
westerly winds often blow down the river in furious squalls, especially 
in the fall of the year. 

In a sailing vessel, approach the Saguenay entrance early on the 
flood with a breeze which can be depended on, and plenty of daylight 

°The French explored the Saguenay before the middle of the sixteenth cen¬ 
tury, and Tadoussac soon after became, and remained till the settlement of 
Canada, their principal post on the St. Lawrence for carrying on the fur trade 
with the Indians. 



DIRECTIONS—ANCHORAGES. 


431 


to reach Tadoussac anchorage. Be sure to remember that the ebb sets 
like a rapid over Lark islet and Point Vaches reefs, and that it is dan¬ 
gerous to be becalmed just within either of these dangers, because the 
water is so deep that it is difficult to anchor. If impossible to reach 
Tadoussac and it is toward nightfall, or if the tide or the wind be 
unfavorable, anchor as convenient off Moulin Baude or in Basque 
road, and await an opportunity for running in, unless the vessel has 
a pilot qualified to beat her in with safety. 

On arriving near the entrance either from the southwestward or 
northeastward, bring Brandy Pots (see p. 441) open eastward of 
White islet, bearing 194°; steer on that range and pass well eastward 
of Yaches patch with the rocky patches to the eastward of it, Prince 
shoal, and Lark reefs. When the rear range lighthouse at point 
Noire is slightly open northward of the front lighthouse, head for the 
range in that way and keep it so until past Bar reef, and then haul 
gradually into Tadoussac harbor. Or steer on the Brandy Pots— 
White Islet range, until point la Boule is just open southwestward of 
point Ilot, 283°, when haul in for that range and steer into the river, 
passing southward of Yaches patch and Point Yaches reef, observing 
that points Ilot and la Boule in line pass over the southwestern part 
of Point Yaches reef, and must be kept open to clear it; when 
as far in as point Rouge, haul into the harbor. If the range marks 
can not be distinguished, enter the river, passing J to f mile northward 
of Prince Shoal lightvessel, and about 600 yards southward of 
Yaches Patch buoy, Avhence steer to pass midway between Point 
Yaches reef and Lark Islet reef and on into the harbor. In mooring 
in the harbor let go the outer anchor in 16 fathoms and the inner 
one close to the low-water mark. 

Grosse Roche, called Sacre Coeur, is situated on the left bank of 
the Saguenay at about 5 miles above point la Boule. It is an im¬ 
portant settlement, and contains one church, post-office, telegraph 
office, several stores, and two cheese factories. A wharf is to be con¬ 
structed here. 

Light.— A lantern rising from the red roof of a square white 
dwelling, the whole 35 feet high, on the eastern bank of the Saguenay, 
about 1 mile above Grosse Roche, exhibits, at 36 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in clear weather, a dis¬ 
tance of 6 miles. The light is visible up and down stream. 

ANCHORAGES IN THE SAGUENAY. 

Barque cove, rather more than 1 mile above Tadoussac and on the 
same side of the river, is 400 yards deep. One or two vessels can 
moor in it. 


432 


SAGUENAY RIVER. 


St. Etienne bay and river are lOf miles up the Saguenay, and on 
its southwestern shore. The bay is 1 mile wide, and forms a harbor 
where several vessels may ride in 10 to 30 fathoms water, clay bottom, 
along the edge of the bank, which dries out f mile from the shore. 

A small village, having a church with a spire, and a pier, is situated 
at the northwestern side of this bay, and there is a sawmill on the 
river at the southwestern part of the bay. 

Telegraph. —St. fitienne is connected with the Canadian telegraph 
system. 

St. Louis isle is 16 miles up the river, and there is excellent anchor¬ 
age, either under its eastern end or between it and the southern shore, 
in 10 to 30 fathoms water, sand and mud bottom. 

St. Barthelemi isle, 1 mile higher up and on the northern side of 
the river, lies close to the mouth of the Cacard river. One or two 
vessels might anchor northwestward of the isle in 6 to 20 fathoms 
water. The place is small. 

St. Jean bay (anse St. Jean), on the southern shore and 22 miles 
up the Saguenay, is If miles wide and 1f miles deep; there is a small 
islet off its northwestern point. St. Jean river and several small 
streams enter at its head. Off these streams and along the edge of 
the bank, which dries out f mile from the shore, there is good anchor¬ 
age for several vessels in 8 to 40 fathoms water, mud bottom. On the 
southern side of this bay there is a small village that has a telegraph 
office, a church, and a pier 366 feet long, with 7-f feet water at its 
outer end; on the western side of the bay there is a prominent water¬ 
fall. 

Light. —A brown mast, 16 feet high, close to the freight shed at 
the outer end of the pier in St. Jean bay, exhibits, at 16 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, that should be seen, in clear weather, 
a distance of 8 miles. 

Eternite cove, on the southwestern side of the river and 6 miles 
above St. Jean bay, is \ mile wide, If miles deep, with a river of the 
same name flowing into its head. At the head of this cove, vessels 
lie securely and quite landlocked in 8 to 30 fathoms, mud bottom. 

Cap PEternite is the southern entrance point, and cap a la Trinite 
the northern entrance point of Eternite cove. Cap a la Trinite re¬ 
sembles three steps when seen from up or down the river; on the low¬ 
est, and about 400 feet above high water, is an image of the Virgin, 32 
feet high; and on the next above, about 700 feet above high water, is a 
cross; the highest step rises to the height of 1,500 feet above high 
water. 

la Niche, a curious hole in the cliffs, is on the southwestern shore, 
about 2 miles northwestward of cap a la Trinite. 


DESCENTE DES FEMMES-PETITES ISLES. 


433 


Descente des Femmes, on the northern shore 11^ miles above cap 
a la Trinite, is a cove 700 yards long, with a depth of 20 fathoms at 
its entrance, decreasing to 5 fathoms near its head. Several vessels 
can moor securely in it. 

Tableau is a new settlement here, and as the only communica¬ 
tion is by water, a wharf 193 feet long and 25 feet wide is built; 
houses extend round this cove, and round those on either side of it. 

The Saguenay turns suddenly northward 5 miles above this cove, 
between cape East and cape West, but the previous westerly direction 
of the river is continued for 6 miles beyond cape West to the head of 
Ha Ha bay or to a distance of 55 miles from the entrance of the river. 

Light. —An open frame tower on the southern extremity of cape 
East opposite the entrance to Ha Ha bay, exhibits, at 36 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 11 miles over an arc of 205° from 278° through north 
and east to 124°. The light is unwatched. 

Ha Ha bay is 6 miles deep and 1 £ to 2f miles wide, the widest part 
being at its head, where four considerable streams fall into it. The 
best anchorage is in 7 to 30 fathoms, clay bottom, on either side of a 
small islet joined to the shore at low water in the southwestern corner 
of the bay. There is room for a considerable number of vessels, but 
the anchorage is rather open to easterly winds. 

This bay is fairly well settled, and is cultivated from Fort point, 
the southeastern entrance point of the bay, westward and northward 
to the northern cove at the head. St. Alexis, a considerable village, 
containing a church with a spire, and a sawmill, is situated on the 
shores of La Grande baie, the southwestern arm; a pier is built here. 
St. Alphonse, which also has a church with a spire, is situated on the 
northwestern arm of the bay. There is a pier at St. Alphonse to 
which steamers moor. 

In 1901 there were 507 residents at Bagotville and St. Alphonse. 

Telegraph.—There is a telegraph office at each of these villages. 

Light. —A brown mast rising from the freight shed at the outer 
end of the pier at St. Alphonse, exhibits, at 34 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light. 

Petites isles, on the northern shore of the Saguenay at 4J miles 
above cape East, are three small rocky islets joined to the shore at 
low water. The bay to the eastward of them forms a small but secure 
anchorage with a depth of 6 to 17 fathoms, mud bottom. 

The Saguenay, which is here nearly 2 miles wide, with a depth 
of 65 fathoms, is, at 2 miles to the westward, contracted to f mile by 
a high, rocky point projecting from its northern shore; but expands 


50918—08 - 28 



434 


SAGUENAY RIVER. 


again nearly to the previous breadth in the next 3 miles, which is the 
distance from the rocky point to point Roches. On the northern 
side of the river, from the high, rocky point to within 1 mile of point 
Roches, there is good anchorage in depths up to 20 fathoms. 

St. Fulgence, or l’anse au Foin, is a small village on the northern 
shore of the Saguenay about 8-J miles below Chicoutimi and about 1 
mile above the high, rocky point. It contains one Roman Catholic 
church, four stores, and two sawmills. There is a block, 60 feet long 
and 30 feet wide, sunk in 10 feet water at about 2,500 feet from high- 
water mark, to give shelter to the small craft employed loading 
steamers in the bay; there is a wharf at the village. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office here. 

Point Roches is 57 miles from the river entrance, and here the 
navigation ends for shipping, but vessels of small draft proceed to 
Chicoutimi, 6 miles farther. 

The 3-fathom line of soundings runs nearly north and south 1 
mile eastward of point Roches, and between that line and the point 
the water is all shoal, forming flats. 

Anchorage—Buoys.— A black and white checkered can buoy is 
moored in 5 fathoms on the eastern edge of the flats below point 
Roches. 

A red spar buoy is moored in 7 fathoms at 93°, 550 yards from the 
checkered buoy, and about 300 feet from a rocky spit with 7 feet 
water on it and which shoals to 2 feet inshore. 

These buoys indicate the best anchorage for deep draft vessels 
waiting cargo from Chicoutimi. 

When coming to the anchorage, after passing the high rocky point, 
keep a moderate distance off the northern shore, and anchor in 11 to 
14 fathoms water, with cape West open of the high rocky point, an 
angle of about 2°, and a hut, on a platform pier which has been built 
well out on the shoal off point Roches and is conspicuous, in line with 
a clearing on top of bluff, bearing 314°, where a vessel with a full 
cable out can swing clear of the two buoys. 

There is a good anchorage for vessels of light draft from 400 to 
800 yards, 281° from the spar buoy, or inside the checkered buoy. 

Directions are unnecessary for ascending the Saguenay from 
Tadoussac to the above mentioned anchorages, as there is neither a 
rock nor a shoal in the fairway. 

The Saguenay is still 1J miles wide at point Roches, but contracts 
rapidly above it, and assumes at the same time the usual character of 
a river, such as mud banks on either side dry at low water, shoals of 
large bowlder stones, drift trees, etc. The water also is fresh at low T 
water. Work is being prosecuted for improving the upper reaches 
of Saguenay (1908). 




RANGE LIGHTS. 


*435 


There is a least depth of 7 feet at low water in the channel from 
point Roches to Chicoutimi. Vessels at Chicoutimi lie off river 
Moulin. 

Local knowledge is required to proceed above the anchorage below 
point Roches. 

Lights. —Five sets of range lights indicate the channel to Chicou¬ 
timi, and there is a fixed red light at Chicoutimi pier that should be 
visible from all points of approach by water in clear weather a dis¬ 
tance of 5 miles. 

RANGE LIGHTS. 

Poste St. Martin range. —The front light is a fixed white light 
exhibited from a square white tower 47 feet high, on the southern 
bank of the Saguenay at river St. Martin, 100 feet from the bank. 
The light is 47 feet above high water and is visible in clear weather 
a distance of 7 miles. 

The back light is a fixed white light exhibited from a brown square 
skeleton tower, surmounted by an inclosed watchroom, and a square 
lantern painted white; the tower is 2,060 feet 288° from the front 
tower, and is 82 feet high. The light is 81 feet above high water and 
is visible in clear weather a distance of 7 miles. 

The lights in line 288° lead through the middle of the deep water 
channel clear of the flats off Anse au Foin and the eastern extremity 
of the Batture aux Loups Marins to intersection with River Valin 
range. 

River Valin range. —The front light is a fixed white light exhib¬ 
ited from a square white tower, 19 feet high, with diamond slatwork 
facing range line, on the northern bank of the Saguenay, eastward 
of the mouth of river Valin. The light is 18 feet above high water 
and is visible in clear weather a distance of 9 miles. 

The back light is fixed white, exhibited from the top of a white- 
slatted framework with white shed, having a red roof, at the base of 
the .framework, the whole being 35 feet high, and situated 315°, 710 
feet from the front tower. The light is 35 feet above high water and 
visible in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

The lights in line 315° lead toward northern shore of the river to 
intersection with Savards range. 

Savards range.— The front light is fixed white, exhibited from a 
square white tower 17 feet high, with diamond day mark facing line 
of range, situated on the northern bank of the Saguenay, east of the 
Caribou river. The light is 16 feet above high water and is visible 
in clear weather a distance of 8 miles. 

The back light is fixed white, exhibited from a square white tower 
31 feet high, with an irregular beacon attached, situated 292°, 490 


436 


SAGUENAY RIVER. 


feet from the front tower. The light is 39 feet above high water, 
and visible in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 

The lights in line 292° lead along the northern part of the channel 
to intersection with Caribou River range. 

Caribou River range. —The front light is fixed white, exhibited 
from a square white tower, 17 feet high, with a beacon facing the line 
of range, and situated on the northern bank of the Saguenay, west¬ 
ward of the Caribou river, in an alder swamp. The light is 14 feet 
above high water, and visible in clear weather a distance of 3 miles. 

The back light is fixed white, exhibited from a white lantern with 
red roof, on top of a red square skeleton tower, the whole 36 feet 
high, and situated 820 feet, 277°, from the front tower. The light is 
40 feet above high water, and visible in clear weather a distance of 
3 miles. 

The lights in line 277° lead to the intersection with Riviere du 
Moulin range, opposite the mouth of the river Caribou. 

Riviere du Moulin range. —The front light is fixed white, exhib¬ 
ited from a square white tower, 31 feet high, situated on the southern 
bank of the Saguenay, eastward of the mouth of the river du Moulin. 
The light is 32 feet above high water and is visible in clear weather 
a distance of 2 miles. 

The back light is fixed white, exhibited from a square white tower 
31 feet high and situated in the trees on hillside, 751 feet, 215°, from 
the front tower. The light is 79 feet above high water and visible 
in clear weather a distance of 2 miles. 

The lights in line 215° lead up from their intersection with Cari¬ 
bou River range to the channel on the southern side of the Saguenay 
above Lachance river. 

Buoys.—The channel between point Roches and Chicoutimi is 
marked by seven red and six black can buoys, which are to be used ac¬ 
cording to the regular buoyage system of Canada; red buoys to be 
left on starboard hand in entering, and black buoys on the port hand. 

Tugs.—There are two first-class tugs of over 300 tons and a small 
one of 21 tons, at Chicoutimi. 

Chicoutimi town is a large village at the head of navigation, con¬ 
taining a large cathedral with a spire, a marine hospital, in front of 
which is a large obelisk, a convent, a court house, a hotel, and many 
other buildings. There is a pier at which the Richelieu and Ontario 
Navigation company’s steam vessels call two to six times a week dur¬ 
ing summer, from June to October, with passengers, mails, and 
freight. The Chicoutimi paper mills produce about 100,000 tons of 
wood pulp annually. The development of this and the lumber in¬ 
dustry here has been remarkable. 

In 1901 the population of the town was 3,826. 


STE. ANNE DU SAGUENAY. 


437 


Telegraph.— There is a telegraph office at Chicoutimi. 

Ste. Anne du Saguenay, a village of about 2,000 inhabitants, is 
situated opposite the town of Chicoutimi. The parish contains, be¬ 
sides the church and post-office, seven stores, four cheese factories, a 
limekiln, brickyard, a pottery, and a sawmill. Both sides of the 
river in the locality are cultivated, and there are many farmhouses 
in the fields. 

There is a pier at the village 494 feet in length, with a depth of 
7£ feet at low water at its outer end. During the season of naviga¬ 
tion a steamboat performs a regular ferry' service every hour be¬ 
tween Ste. Anne and Chicoutimi. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Ste. Anne. 

Chicoutimi river falls into the Saguenay, to which it is the larg¬ 
est tributary, on its southwestern side at 1 mile above the town. A 
short distance within its entrance it falls 40 to 50 feet, through a 
narrow, rocky, and rugged channel. 

Several of the early missionaries, whose tombstones may still be 
seen, were buried in the chapel that formerly stood on the left bank 
of Chicoutimi river, now the site of large sawmills. 

The Saguenay from Terres Rompues rapid to lake St. John, a 
distance of some 30 miles, is said to be so full of heavy rapids as to 
be dangerous to canoes, therefore the more circuitous route up the 
Chicoutimi, through lake Kenogami, and down Metabetshuan river 
is preferred. At the mouth of this last named river, on the southern 
shore of lake St. John, stands a king’s post, leased by the Hudson 
Bay company. The post was established fT t by the Jesuit mission¬ 
aries in the 16th century, and traces of tlijir cultivation still remain. 


CHAPTER XI. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC—LOWER ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, 
BOTH SHORES —GREEN ISLAND AND RED ISLET TO 
SOUTH TRAVERSE AND COUDRES ISLAND. 


Variation in 1908. 

Red islet_21° 00' W. I North end of Coudres is- 

South end of Hare island- 20° 48' W. | land- •- -19° 48' W. 

General remarks. —The estuary of the St. Lawrence has been con¬ 
sidered to end and the river proper to begin at Green island, simply 
because the adoption of such a division, at a part where the navi¬ 
gable channel becomes divided, contracted, and difficult, as it does 
at Green island, conveniently separates the sailing directions into 
parts corresponding with that distinctive change in the nature of 
the navigation. 

The preceding chapters are intended to enable the seaman, with 
the aid of the charts, to navigate his vessel into the Gulf and as 
high up the river as Green island. This chapter commences at 
what may be considered the first difficult pass in ascending the St. 
Lawrence; the difficulty arising, not only from the dangerous reefs 
off Green island, Red islet, and the Saguenay river, but also from 
the great velocity and the transverse directions of the tidal streams. 

Some descriptions and directions have already been given about 
the passage on either side of Red islet and its reef, Green Island 
light and reef, and the anchorage under that reef; and those descrip¬ 
tions and directions should be read carefully in connection with this 
chapter. (See p. 323.) 

The whole distance from Green Island lighthouse to Lower 
(South) Traverse lighthouse is 54 miles. For the first 30 miles of 
this distance the river is divided into two channels, North and South, 
by Red islet, White islet, and Hare island, with the reefs and banks 
attached to, or extending from, them. All of these dangers, lying 
in the same direction, form a narrow, but not continuous, ridge of 
graywacke and slate rocks, nearly in the middle of the river, while 
for the remainder of the 54 miles, from the southwestern end of Hare 
Island bank to the northeastern end of Middle ground of South 
Traverse, a distance of 24 miles, the river is clear of detached shoals. 


438 





RED ISLET-RED ISLET BANK. 


439 


It is true, however, that some 10 miles of this distance are occupied 
by English bank, upon which the least water is 5f fathoms, and 
most of the soundings are but a fathom or two less than those 
surrounding the bank. 

In this chapter the islands mentioned above, with their reefs and 
banks and anchorages, will be first described and then the mainland 
on each side of the river, with the channels between the mainland 
and the dangers. 

Red islet, White islet, and Hare island, with the Banks Extend¬ 
ing from Them, and also English bank. 

Red islet, bearing 281°, 1.5 miles from the lighthouse on the north¬ 
ern point of Green island, is small, low, and composed of shingle 
partly covered with grass and resting on slate rock. 

Light. —A circular gray stone tower, 64 feet high, with a red lan¬ 
tern, and a white dwelling having a brown roof attached to the tower, 
on the middle of Red islet, exhibits, at 68 feet above high water, a 
group revolving white light, showing 3 flashes at intervals of 10 
seconds between their points of greatest brilliancy, followed by an 
interval of 30 seconds, during the greater part of which the light is 
totally eclipsed, thus completing the revolution in 50 seconds; the 
light should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

Red Islet bank. —Red islet is quite bold at its southwestern end, 
but a rocky bank or reef, nearly dry in some parts at low water, ex¬ 
tends north-northeastward 2.8 miles from it with a*width of 1^ miles, 
within the 5-fathom line. There is good warning by the lead in ap¬ 
proaching this bank from the northeastward, but caution is necessary 
when approaching from the northward and westward, because the 
water is deep and the ebb stream sets strongly upon it on that side. 
In fine summer weather, a vessel becalmed or bound up may safely 
anchor to await the flood stream, in 10 fathoms at low water, east¬ 
ward and southeastward of this bank, where there is good ground, and 
the strength of the ebb is much broken by the bank. If necessary a 
vessel might also anchor in 10 fathoms at 400 yards southward of the 
islet, but the ebb stream runs there at the rate of 6J knots an hour. 

Lightvessel. —A schooner, painted red, with “ Red Island light¬ 
ship No. 3 55 in white on her sides, is moored in 20 fathoms with Red 
Islet lighthouse bearing 228°, distant 3.3 miles, and exhibits two 
fixed white lights, one on the foremast 34 feet above the sea, the 
other on the mainmast 22 feet above the sea, both of which should 
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 11 miles. 

Fog signal. —During thick or foggy weather and snowstorms, the 
lightvessel sounds, by means of a steam fog whistle, 1 blast of 10 sec¬ 
onds duration every minute. 


440 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Submarine fog bell. —A submarine bell fitted to Red Island light- 
vessel, during thick or foggy weather, strikes the lightvessePs num¬ 
ber, “ 3,” every 14 seconds, thus: 3 strokes at intervals of 2 seconds 
between strokes; interval 10 seconds. There may be slight variations 
in these intervals. 

Buoys. —A conical steel buoy, painted red and numbered 34B, is 
moored with Red Islet lighthouse bearing 208°, distant 2.9 miles, 
and marks the northeastern end of Red Islet bank. 

A red can buoy with a flag, No. 36B, is moored with Red Islet 
lighthouse bearing 248°, distant 1.1 miles, and marks the south¬ 
eastern edge of Red Islet bank. 

Leading marks. —The southeastern beacon on Green island, in 
line with Green Island lighthouse, bearing 136°, leads northeastward 
of Red Islet bank; both the beacon and lighthouse are white. White 
islet, twice its own breadth, open northward of Hare island 212°, 
leads southeastward; but as these marks are distant, and may be ob¬ 
scured by mist or fog, the lead should not be neglected, nor the bank 
approached to less than the depth of 9 fathoms at low water. There 
are no marks for leading northward and westward of this bank, nor 
do the soundings there afford sufficient warning for the safety of a 
vessel. 

White islet, 9J miles 210° from Red islet, is small, 38 feet high, 
wooded, and presents the appearance of a clump of trees on Hare 
Island North reef. 

Hare Island North reef, or White Islet reef (battures de l’ile 
Blanche), is composed of a narrow ridge of slate with numerous 
bowlders on and skirting it, extending northeastward 3.3 miles from 
White islet, and southwestward from the islet to Hare island. White 
islet is the only conspicuous object on the reef, although there are 
other small heaps of bowlders that never cover. The flood stream sets 
westward very strongly on and over the northeastern end of this reef, 
and therefore it must be guarded against. 

Bock. —There is a rock with 3 feet least water over it just off the 
northern end of the reef on the following bearings: Northeastern ex¬ 
treme White islet 209°, distant 2.8 miles. Cacouna Island summit 
(station) 108°, distant 5.6 miles. Vessels should not pass between 
White Islet Reef lightship and this rock, because the tides set very 
strongly over it and across the reef. 

Lightvessel. —A lightvessel with two masts and painted red, 
with “ White Island reef, No. 5,” in white on her sides, is moored in 
8 fathoms water about 650 yards northeastward of the northeastern 
end of White Islet reef, and exhibits two fixed white lights, one on 
the foremast at 24 feet and the other on the mainmast at 27 feet 


HAKE ISLAND-BRANDY POTS. 441 

above the sea, both of which should be seen, in clear weather, a dis¬ 
tance of 10 miles. 

Fog signal. —During thick or foggy weather and snowstorms the 
lightvessel sounds, by means of a steam fog whistle, 2 blasts every 2 
minutes and 44 seconds, thus: Blast, 8 seconds; silence, 8 seconds; 
blast, 8 seconds; silence, 2 minutes and 20 seconds. 

Submarine fog bell.—A submarine bell fitted to White Island 
Reef lightvessel, during thick or foggy weather strikes the light- 
vessel’s number, “ 5,” every 18 seconds, thus: 5 strokes at intervals 
of 2 seconds between strokes; interval, 10 seconds. There may be 
slight variations in these intervals. 

Leading marks. —The beacon at Cacouna, on the eastern shore of 
the mainland, open westward of the church leads eastward; and Hare 
island well open southward of White islet leads southward of the 
northeastern part of the reef. At night or in foggy weather this reef 
should not be approached nearer than a depth of 10 fathoms at low 
water. 

Hare island, the northeastern end of which bears 198°, distant 1.6 
miles from White islet, is nearly joined to that islet at low water, 
when the passage between is not available even for boats. The island 
is 7.2 miles long, nearly southwest and northeast, with a greatest 
width of about f mile; it rises, apparently in an inclined plane from 
both ends, to a summit 323 feet high, situated 2.3 miles from its 
northeastern end. and it is densely wooded. There are a few houses 
on the southeastern side of the island 1^ miles from its northeastern 
end and a solitary house 2 miles southwestward of them. 

A narrow isolated reef, 2 feet high, and extending nca:ly f mile 
northeast and southwest, lies 600 yards south-southeasiwaid of the 
northeastern end of Hare island, and a small wooded islet is joined 
at low water to its southwestern end. 

Beacons. —A diamond shaped and a pyramidal beacon stand close 
westward of the eastern houses mentioned above, and at 1 mile from 
the southwestern end of the island there are two pyramidal beacons 
and one diamond beacon. 

Brandy Pots are three islands joined together at low water, situ- 
uated eastward of Hare island, about If miles southward from its 
northeastern end. The channel separating these islands from Hare 
island is 800 yards wide, with a reef nearly in the middle, and through 
which a greatest depth of 9 feet can be carried at low water, though 
there is a curious deep hole at its. southwestern entrance. 

The northwestern Brandy Pot is the largest, being about 800 yards 
long, nearly northeast and southwest, and 200 yards wide; it rises 170 
feet into a wooded conical summit and falls in cliffs to the northward. 
The northeastern islet is small and wooded, and about 30 feet high. 


442 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


The eastern islet is white and almost bare of trees. Its southeastern 
extreme has deep water close-to. 

Light.—A circular gray tower, having a red lantern, rising from 
the middle of a square white dwelling with a red roof, the whole 
building being 39 feet high, and situated at 84 yards within the south¬ 
eastern end of the eastern Brandy Pot, exhibits at 71 feet above 
high water a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather 
a distance of 10 miles. 

Brandy Pot bank, on which the depths are less than 3 fathoms, 
extends southeastward of Hare island and both northeastward and 
southwestward of Brandy Pots. 

An isolated rock with 12 feet water on it is situated 209°, 1J miles 
from Brandy Pots lighthouse and a little more than J mile from the 
nearest point of Hare island. A shoal with 18 feet water over it 
is situated 209°, 3^ miles from Brandy Pots lighthouse; a rock with 
16 feet water over it, 600 yards west-southwestward of the shoal; 
and a bank with 17 feet water on it is situated 104°, 900 yards from 
the southwestern point of Hare island. 

Leading mark.—To clear the outer depth of 17 feet on the bank 
northeastward of Brandy Pots, keep the whole of Pilgrim islands 
well open southeastward of Brandy Pots. 

Anchorage.—Small vessels seek shelter northeastward or south- 
westward of Brandy Pots, according to the wind, in 13 to 16 feet 
water. 

Large vessels anchor as convenient in Brandy Pots channel or 
Hare Island channel south of Middle bank. The holding ground 
is good throughout. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Brandy Pots at 3h. 0m.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps 10 feet. 

Height of tide at every hour after low and high water ordinary 
spring tides: 


Place. 

After low 
water. 

Flood tide. 

After high 
water. 

Ebb tide. 

At Brandy Pots. 

h. m. 

Ft. in. 

h. m. 

Ft. in 


0 0 

0 0 

0 0 

17 0 


1 0 

1 3 

1 0 

15 0 


2 0 

4 7 

2 0 

12 0 


3 0 

9 5 

3 0 

8 6 


4 0 

13 8 

4 0 

5 6 


5 0 

16 0 

5 0 

3 0 


5 50 

17 0 

6 0 

6 34 

1 0 
0 0 


In neap tides, the rise and fall not being so great as in ordinary 
springs, the proportionate rise and fall for every hour is also less, 
and an allowance must be made accordingly. 











HARE ISLAND SOUTH REEF-BARRETT LEDGES. 


443 


In Brandy Pot channel the flood stream begins 3h. 50m. after 
high water at Quebec, and it runs for 6h. 5m.; the ebb stream begins 
2h. 30m. before high water at Quebec, and it runs for 6h. 20m. 

The rate of the tidal streams is 2J to 3J knots in the southern 
channel. 

Hare island South reef (battures de Pile aux Lievres).—The 
nearest portion of this reef that dries at low water is 1J miles south- 
westward of Hare island, whence the reef extends southwestward 
about 3J miles. The channel between Hare island and the reef has 
a greatest depth of 18 feet at low water, and the tidal streams sweep 
through it at a rate of 4 to 5 knots at springs, eddying with strong 
swirls on the ebb. 

The local steamers between Murray bay and Riviere du Loup use 
this channel. 

On Hare island South reef there are four islets; the two north¬ 
eastern are covered with grass and a few small bushes 6 feet above 
high water, and the southwestern is a sand bank covered with grass 
and is 4 feet high; the largest is between these, and has some spruce 
trees on its summit, the highest of which is 22 feet high. 

Hare Island knoll.—Northeastward of the eastern end of Hare 
Island South reef and about 1.4 miles southeastward of the south¬ 
western end of Hare island is Hare Island knoll, on which is a depth 
of 15 feet. 

Buoy.—A conical red buoy, No. 48 B, is moored about 200 yards 
north-northeastward of the knoll. 

Hare Island bank extends south-southwestward 6 miles from 
South reef, and also runs along its entire eastern side, extending out 
about J mile. 

Buoy.—A red conical buoy, No. 52 B, is moored in 5 fathoms water 
on the southeastern edge of the bank at about 1 mile from its south¬ 
western end, with the two white beacons on the eastern end of Grande 
island in line. 

Barrett ledges are two small rocks with deep water between and 
around them. The northeastern rock has 7 feet water over it and is 
situated 74°, 2.4 miles from Brandy Pots lighthouse, and the south¬ 
western, with 12 feet water over it, lies 230°, 800 yards from the 
eastern rock. 

Lightbuoy.—A red and black horizontally striped pillar light 
and bell buoy, No. 38B, is moored close northeastward of the north¬ 
eastern rock, and exhibits an intermittent white light, the light being 
eclipsed about every 6 seconds. 

Buoy.—A red and black horizontally striped can buoy, No. 40 B, is 
moored close northeastward of the southwestern rock, with a dia- 


444 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


mond-shaped beacon in line with the northeastern extreme of Brandy 
pots. 

Leading marks.—The highest hill over St. Andre, open eastward 
of Great Pilgrim island, bearing 199°, leads southeastward, and Hare 
island summit, in line with the northeastern extreme of Brandy Pots, 
bearing 253°, leads northward of these ledges. 

Marmen rock, with 7 feet water over it, is 107°, 1.6 miles from 
Brandy Pots lighthouse. Middle shoal, with 9 feet water on it, lies 
300 yards southwestward of Marmen rock, and Demers rock, with 11 
feet water over it, lies 700 yards southwestward of Middle shoal, and 
123° nearly LJ miles from Brandy Pots lighthouse. 

Buoys.—A red and black horizontally striped can buoy, No. 42 B, 
is moored close northeastward of Marmen rock; and a red and black 
horizontally striped can buoy, No. 44 B, is moored close southwest¬ 
ward of Demers rock. 

Leading marks.—Mount Eboulements summit, shut in with the 
southwestern extreme of Hare island, bearing 232°, leads close north¬ 
westward, and the apparent eastern summit on the southern shore of 
the river in line with the northern extreme of Cacouna island, bearing 
49°, leads close southeastward of these banks. 

Middle bank extends about southwestward from Middle shoal to 
Hare Island bank, and the greatest depth on it is 27 feet, A patch, 
with 17 feet water on it, lies on this bank at 90°, 2 miles from the 
southwestern end of Hare island, and a shoal, with 18 feet water over 
it, lies at 800 yards north-northeastward of that patch, with the east¬ 
ern end of White islet in line with the southwestern end of Brandy 
Pots, 14°. 

Buoy.—A red and black horizontally striped can buoy, No. 46B, is 
moored in 25 feet water on the southeastern edge of Middle bank and 
southward of the 17-foot patch, with the two pyramidal beacons on 
Hare island in line and White islet about midway between Brandy 
Pots and Hare island. 

Leading mark.—The northeastern extreme of Hare island in line 
with the eastern end of Brandy Pots, bearing 351°, leads across the 
northeastern end of Middle bank in 27 feet water. 

Brandy Pot channel is between Barrett ledges and Middle bank 
on the east, and Hare island, Brandy Pots, and Brandy Pots bank 
on the west. The least depth in the channel is 11 fathoms; but to 
go from it to South channel the shoal water northeastward of Hare 
Island bank must be crossed. 

Morin shoal lies nearly in midstream about 8 miles above Hare 
Island bank and between Kamouraska and Murray bays; it is about 
i mile long, nearly northeast and southwest, and 300 yards broad 


ENGLISH BANK—ISLE VERTE VILLAGE. 


445 


within the 10-fathom line. The least depth on the shoal, which is 
hard ground, is 3J fathoms near its southwestern end. 

Light, whistling and bell buoy.—A combination light, whist¬ 
ling and bell buoy, painted red and black in horizontal bands, is 
moored on the shoalest part of the shoal, with Kamouraska light¬ 
house bearing 77°, distant 7.3 miles, and it exhibits a white light, 
eclipsed at short intervals. The light is carried on a skeleton super¬ 
structure, 30 feet above the sea, and should be seen, in clear weather, 
a distance of 12 miles. 

English bank extends from about 4 miles northwestward of 
Orignaux point southwestward 10 miles to Middle ground, with a 
general width of 1 mile; from the northeastern end of the bank depths 
of 9 to 12 fathoms continue north-northeastward to Morin shoal and 
northward for about 5 miles. The least depth on the bank is 5 fath¬ 
oms, and there are depths of 6 fathoms on the ridge of the bank east¬ 
ward to a line drawn about 320° from Ouelle point. The bank and 
the shoal water northward of it afford good anchorage, which is 
much used by vessels with a foul wind to await a favorable tidal 
stream. 

South Shore, Green Island to St. Eoch des Aulnaies. 

Green island.— (See p. 322.) The western coast of Green island 
trends southwestward 4| miles from the lighthouse, and is bold and 
rocky. The southwestern point of the island is low and bare; from 
it a reef extends southwestward 1 mile, curving northward beyond the 
general direction of the coast, so that from the western end of the 
reef the lighthouse bears 40°. The northwestern side of this reef is 
so bold that there is no warning by the lead, and at night vessels 
should not approach it to less than 25 fathoms water, nor bring the 
light to bear northward of 48° until the northeastern end of Ca- 
couna island bears 137°. which bearing leads to the westward. 

The channel between Green island and the mainland is f mile wide 
in its narrowest part, and it dries at low water, except in a boat 
channel. 

Tidal streams.—The flood stream sets strongly over the tail of 
the reef off the southwestern end of Green island toward Cacouna 
island, and the ebb in the contrary direction. During the flood there 
is generally a great rippling off the end of the reef caused by the 
meeting of the streams from either side of Green island. 

Isle Verte village is situated on the mainland eastward of Green 
island; it contains flour, carding, and saw mills, and its population in 
1902 was about 4,600. There is a station of the Intercolonial railway, 
and a pier 1,283 feet long. 


446 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Anchorage.—Midway between the southwestern end of Green 
island southern reef and Cacouna rock there is good anchorage and 
shelter from easterly winds, in 6 fathoms, mud bottom, but as there 
might be difficulty in getting out with a westerly wind it is seldom 
used. 

Riviere des Vases lies on the mainland about midway between 
Green island and Cacouna; on the eastern side of the river there is a 
wharf with a depth alongside it of 6 feet at high water. The chief 
trade here consists in the marine grass, called “ herbes a barnaches,” 
which is gathered in boats and landed inside the river. 

Cacouna island, the eastern end of which lies southward 2£ miles 
from the southwestern end of Green island, is about 1.4 miles long, 
northeast and southwest, 600 yards wide, and 281 feet high; it is gen¬ 
erally wooded, over gray rocks, faced by cliffs on the northern side, 
and is rendered conspicuous by its isolated position and elevation, 
which is greater than that of the adjacent land. 

The island is distant about J mile from the mainland, the passage 
between being dry except at very high tides, and there is a causeway 
to it that rarely covers. There is a depth of 6 fathoms water at 200 
yards from the southwestern point of the island. 

Cacouna rock, 25 feet high, is joined to the northern end of 
Cacouna island, from which it is distant 600 yards, by a reef of slate 
that dries at low water. 

Cacouna, a thriving village, with a population of 589 in 1901, is 
situated on the mainland southeastward of the southwestern end of 
Cacouna island, and is much frequented by tourists in summer. It 
has a large Roman Catholic church with a spire, a small Episcopal 
church with a spire, and a Presbyterian church with a belfry; the last 
is not visible from seaward. 

A large hotel with three projecting wings, painted white, stands 
near the edge of the cliff that rises close southAvestward of the pyra¬ 
midal beacon which stands below the church. Numerous villas of 
the summer residents and houses of the stationary population line 
the road for some distance southwestward of the hotel. The beach 
here is one of the prettiest on the St. Lawrence. 

The post and telegraph office stands opposite the church. 

There is a wharf at Cacouna with a depth alongside it of about 
12^ feet at high water. 

Percee rock is in two parts that together extend 1.2 miles parallel 
to, and distant nearly 1 mile from, the south shore of the St. LaAV- 
rence. The northeastern part is 1.8 miles above Cacouna island, and 
is a small round rock 9 inches above high Avater; the southwestern 
part is 1 foot high, nearly 1 mile long, and very narrow. Shoal water 


RIVIERE DU LOUP. 447 

surrounds the rock from 200 to 400 yards, and a tortuous channel 
with 3J fathoms water in it lies between the reef and the shore. 

Leading marks.—The eastern extreme of Green island, open 
northwestward of Cacouna rock, bearing 37°, leads northwestward, 
and the apparent extreme point northeastward of Cacouna island, in 
line with the eastern end of that island, bearing 39°, leads close south¬ 
ward of the rocks. At night these rocks should not be approached to 
a depth less than 8 fathoms. 

Riviere du Loup, the entrance to which is 5J miles southwestward 
of Cacouna island, is a considerable stream, with a depth of 2 feet 
in its entrance at low water, but the river dries across at a short 
distance within the inner end of the pier described below. A depth 
of about 10 feet can be carried at high water to the mills near the 
bridge, a distance of 1.3 miles. Near the bridge water can be pro¬ 
cured with considerable difficulty. 

A pier extends about 1,600 feet from the northern entrance point 
of the river, with a depth of 16 feet at low water alongside its head. 
A railway in connection with the Intercolonial system extends to the 
end of the pier. 

A small hotel and telegraph office stand at the inner end of the pier, 
and a flagstaff on the point. This point is a favorite watering place, 
and during summer, from June to October, has daily communication 
with Quebec by steamer. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 35 feet high, on the end of the 
pier at Riviere du Loup point, exhibits at 36 feet above high water a 
fixed white light which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
11 miles. 

Marine signal and telegraph station.—There is a signal and 
telegraph station at the lighthouse. 

Anchorage off Riviere du Loup point in depths of 4 to 5 fathoms, 
with good holding ground, is sheltered from all but northerly winds, 
which are rare. There is a depth of 4 fathoms at 400 yards from the 
pier: the deeper water is with the court-house in line with Riviere 
du Loup point. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at Riviere du Loup pier 
at 3h. 10m.; springs rise 16£ feet, neaps 10J feet; neaps range 7 feet. 

Riviere du Loup or Fraserville town, situated close inshore of 
the entrance to the river, and the chief town of the county of Temis- 
couata, had a population of 4,569 in 1901. It contains a prominent 
stone church with a spire; the court-house, a conspicuous square stone 
building at about 250 yards westward of the church; a small 
Protestant church with a square tower; and several manufactories, 
including two pulp mills. There are post and telegraph offices in 


448 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Fraserville, and the engineering works of the Intercolonial railway 
are grouped about its railway station. The Temiscouata railway 
runs from Riviere du Loup to Edmundston, where it connects with 
the Canadian Pacific system. 

Supplies of all kinds can be obtained here. The Intercolonial rail¬ 
way supplies coal, which can be taken in from trucks at the end of the 
pier; about 1,600 tons are kept in stock at Riviere du Loup, and about 
the same amount both at St. Flavie and St. Charles junction, but any 
quantity can be brought from the Pictou collieries in 50 hours, or 
from Springhill in 39 hours. 

The coast.—The land in the vicinity of Fraserville consists of a 
series of ridges parallel to the shore, and separated by valleys under 
cultivation. From the valley just southward of the ridge that ter¬ 
minates in Riviere du Loup point, rises a remarkable isolated hill, 280 
feet high, that from the westward appears as a sharp cone. The 
shore ridges, all of which are faced by cliff on the river side, extend 
to Notre Dame du Portage, the cliff about 2 miles southwestward of 
Fraserville being surmounted by a flagstaff and a summer house, 186 
feet above high water. Behind these ridges the main hills are almost 
flat in outline, and slope gradually seaward from elevations of 400 to 
550 feet. 

Notre Dame du Portage parish church, which has a spire, is close 
to the shore 5 miles southwestward of Riviere du Loup point. 

Loup bank extends southwestward from Riviere du Loup point 
towards Pilgrim islands, in which direction it shallows gradually. 

Leading mark.—Riviere du Loup lighthouse, well open south¬ 
ward of the isolated conical hill, bearing 61°, leads northwestward 
of the depth of 18 feet on this bank, and also of Pilgrim shoal. 

Pilgrim shoal.—The northeastern end of this shoal lies southwest¬ 
ward 4J miles from Riviere du Loup lighthouse, and the shoal ex¬ 
tends about 5 miles southwestward or nearly parallel to the southern 
shore of the river, from which it is distant 3| miles. The south¬ 
western end of the shoal lies 10°, 1.8 miles from Long Pilgrim light¬ 
house. The least depth on the shoal is 13 feet near its southwestern 
end, but the general depth on it is 16 to 18 feet; the channel between 
the shoal and Loup bank is 400 yards wide at its narrowest part, and 
carries a depth of 19 feet. 

Leading marks.—The mark for clearing Loup bank leads north¬ 
ward of the shoal; the eastern end of Green island, well open north¬ 
ward of Cacouna rock, bearing 38°, or the northwestern sides of 
Grande and Burnt islands (Kamoukaska) in line, bearing 211°, leads 
westward of this shoal. 


PILGRIM ISLANDS—ST. ANDRE VILLAGE. 


449 


Light and bell buoy.—A black cylindrical gas and bell buoy, No. 
51B, surmounted by a steel frame supporting a bell and lantern, is 
moored in 5 fathoms water on the southwestern side of Pilgrim shoal 
with the northeastern end of Great Pilgrim island bearing 110°, 
distant 1.8 miles, and it exhibits an intermittent white light, the 
light being eclipsed about every 6 seconds. 

Pilgrim islands are a group of four islands and some rocks ex¬ 
tending northeastward and southwestward about 4£ miles. The 
channel between these islands and the main is shoal. 

Great Pilgrim, the eastern island, the eastern end of which is 
situated 220°, 5| miles from Riviere du Loup point, is about f mile 
long, northeastward and southwestward, and 250 yards wide. It is 
of bare gray rock partly covered with turf, and with small wood in the 
hollows between the hills. Each end rises to a round hill, the eastern 
218 feet and the western 223 feet above high water, and between these 
is a smaller summit faced by gray cliffs. 

Middle Pilgrim island is partly wooded and 181 feet high. The 
other smaller islands present generally the same characteristics. 

Long Pilgrim, the western island, is about 3 miles long, north- 
northeastward and south-south westward, narrow; and its eastern 
end rises to a partly wooded hill, 128 feet high, from which the 
island extends in a narrow ridge faced by gray cliff to a small, bare 
islet, 10 feet high, at its southwestern end. At high water there is a 
gap at J mile northeastward from its southwestern end, through 
which boats can pass when the water is smooth. 

Light.—A circular white lighthouse with a red lantern roof, rising 
from the middle of a square dwelling, the whole building being 39 
feet high, on the top of Long Pilgrim island, at If miles from its 
northeastern end and 108 yards within its western coast, exhibits at 
136 feet above high water a fixed white light which should be seen 
in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Anchorage.—There is anchorage for small craft in westerly winds 
under Long Pilgrim island, and off Great Pilgrim island in 15 feet 
water. 

St. Andre village, containing a church built of stone, with a 
spire, is situated on the southern shore of the St. Lawrence south- 
eastward of the southwestern end of Long Pilgrim island. At the 
eastern end of the village is a large factory for the manufacture of 
agricultural implements; the village also contains a foundry. The 
population is about 2,500 (1902). 

A wharf, consisting of an earthen embankment 850 feet long and 
of 9 piers connected by platforms with 30-foot spans, extends from the 


50918—08-29 



450 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


village. The Intercolonial railway passes one of its stations at about 
3 miles inland from the village. 

Point St. Andre, a round island about 800 yards long, north and 
south, 300 yards wide, and 126 feet high, is joined to the mainland at 
•J mile southwestward of St. Andre by a grassy flat 350 yards wide 
that covers only at high water. 

The shore in this locality rises to several remarkable hills, the 
highest, at 1.3 miles 185° from St. Andre church, being a conical 
hill, 630 feet high, with a similar hill, 565 feet high, at \ mile north¬ 
ward of it. 

St. Alexandre church, the spire of which rises 585 feet above high 
water, inland 4.4 miles, 84° from St. Andre church, is occasionally 
visible from the channels in the river. 

St. Andre bank extends southwestward between Pilgrim and 
Kamouraska islands, and in many places it dries out more than 1 
mile from the shore of the mainland; its western edge is very steep. 

Leading mark.—The southeastern sides of Grande and Burnt 
islands in line, bearing 211°, lead along it at 300 to 400 yards from 
the 3-fathom line of soundings until near Grande island. 

Kamouraska islands lie nearly 6 miles southwestward of Pilgrim 
islands, and 24 miles from mainland, to which they are joined by 
shoals that dry at low water. Grande island, the northeastern, and 
Burnt island extend about 2 miles along the western edge of the bank, 
which stretches off the eastern shore of the river. 

These islands are narrow ridges of graywacke rock about § mile 
long, and are bold to the westward, there being 20 fathoms water 
close to them. Crow island lies about f mile southward of Burnt 
island and the same distance offshore; there are also two small and 
bare rocky islets within Burnt island. Carts can cross from the main¬ 
land to Crow island at low water. There is no water on the islands. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 39 feet high, with a dwelling 
attached, situated at 240 yards from the northeastern end of Grande 
island, and 160 yards from the water, exhibits at 105 feet above high 
water a revolving white light, which attains its greatest brilliancy 
every \ minute, and should be seen in clear weather a distance of 16 
miles. The lighthouse lantern and the dwelling roofs are painted red. 

Beacons.—There are two white beacons on the northeastern end 
of Grande island, which in line, bearing 159°, lead to the red buoy on 
the southwestern end of Hare Island bank. 

Kamouraska village, on the shore of the river southeastward of 
Crow island, is a favorite summer resort; it contained a population of 
578 in 1901. Near the village church, which has a spire, there is a 
wharf and a good landing, and fresh water can be obtained when the 
tidal rise enables boats to cross the shoals. 


KAMOURASKA BAY-ORIGNAUX POINT. 


451 


Kamouraska bay, southward of the village and between it and 
cape Diable, is well sheltered, and small vessels safely lie aground and 
winter there, on a mud bottom, which driea at low water. Vessels in 
distress, having lost their anchors, may run in at high water between 
the reef off cape Diable and Crow island, leaving the island i to J 
mile to the northeastward in passing, and then haul southwestward 
into the bay within the reef. At high spring tides there is a depth of 
13 to 14 feet of water over the mud, but at neap tides there is seldom 
more than 9 to 10 feet. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage off Kamouraska with the 
prevailing winds up and down the river, but it is open to northwest¬ 
erly winds. The best berth is Avith Kamouraska church, just open 
southwestward of Crow island, bearing 113°, and Grande island, just 
open northAvard of Burnt island, bearing 41°. There is a depth of 
7 fathoms over stiff mud at 800 yards from the 3 fathoms edge of the 
bank. Large vessels may anchor farther Avestward. 

Cape Diable lies southwestward nearly 3 miles from Crow island, 
across Kamouraska bay, and reefs of slate extend from it northward 
more than midway to Crow island, and northwestward J mile, in 
which direction the distance out to the 3 fathoms edge of the bank is 
nearly 1| miles. 

Orignaux point is a low point extending from some low hillocks, 
at 7f miles southwestward from cape Diable. From the point a pier 
extends 1,200 feet, with a crosshead, alongside which there is a depth 
of 11 feet at low water. Close southward of the pier a large hotel 
and some small houses stand on the hillocks. The outer end of the 
pier is the terminus of a branch of the Intercolonial railway, Avhich 
runs from Riviere Ouelle station, and trains connect with a steamer 
which crosses to Murray bay and other places on the north shore 
several times a day during the summer. 

Light.—A rectangular white lighthouse with a red roof, sur¬ 
mounted by an octagonal white lantern, 32 feet high, on the end of 
the pier at Orignaux point, exhibits at 36 feet above high water a 
fixed white light, that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
10 miles. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage also about a mile north¬ 
westward of the pier in 6 fathoms water, and as close in as convenient, 
there being a depth of 18 feet at 600 yards from the pier. 

Vessels loading timber from riviere Ouelle generally anchor here. 

Shoal Abater.— From off Orignaux point the edge of the shoal 
water trends southwestward, gradually increasing its distance from 
the shore, to the shoals of St. Anne, whence it turns southward, grad¬ 
ually decreasing its distance from the shore. 


452 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Orignaux point at 3h. 47m.; springs rise 17^ feet, neaps 13 feet; neaps 
range 9f feet. The flood stream begins in the offing 5h. Om. after 
high water at Quebec, and it runs 5h. 55m. The ebb stream begins 
in the offing lh. 35m. before high water at Quebec, and it runs 6h. 30m. 

Riviere Quelle flows into the St. Lawrence just southward of 
Ouelle point, a prominent projection at 3.8 miles southwestward of 
Orignaux point, and the western prominent projection along this 
part of the coast. The point rises gradually to a height of 108 feet, 
the western summit of a partly wooded ridge that extends some dis¬ 
tance inland. A depth of 12 feet at high water can be carried up 
riviere Ouelle as far as the wharf, which is situated on the southern 
side of the river at 1^ miles from the point. 

The best channel passes southward of a small islet about midway to 
the wharf. Notre Dame de Liesse church, which has a spire, stands 
close eastward of the bridge that spans the river at 2 miles from 
Ouelle point. 

Ste. Anne de la Pocatiere village, which contains a conspicuous 
church with a spire and a large college, stands on the slope of mont 
Ste. Anne, a prominent round hill, 395 feet high, situated 167°, 3.7 
miles from Ouelle point. Several conspicuous isolated hills lie south- 
westward of mont Ste. Anne; and mont Boutot, a remarkable trun¬ 
cated cone 708 feet above high water, lies 2J miles northeastward of 
Ste. Anne. 

St. Roch des Aulnaies (Aulnets) is a small village situated 
southwestward 6^ miles from Ste. Anne de la Pocatiere, and it con¬ 
tains a church with two small spires, which stands close to the shore. 
Houses are situated along the road between these villages. 

Beacons.—There is a pyramidal beacon close to the church, and 
another on an elevation at 131° nearly J mile from the first beacon. 

A pyramidal beacon stands just southward of the edge of the cliff 
at 1J miles southwestward of the church, and inland at 130°, \ mile 
from it stands one shaped like a diamond. 

There is a pier at St. Roch des Aulnaies. 

Coast.—The shore from St. Roch des Aulnaies takes a southwest¬ 
erly direction for about 7 miles to St, Jean Port Joli and is generally 
bordered by small cliffs, the ends of slopes from wooded hills that 
rise 320 and 290 feet above high water. 

Shoals of Ste. Anne extend about 5 miles westward from the 
shores of Ste. Anne bay, which lies between Ouelle point and St. 
Roch des Aulnaies. 

The water shoals very rapidly along the greater part of the outer 
edge of the shoals, the distance between depths of 5 and 3 fathoms 
being less than 200 yards, and thence to 6 feet less than 800 yards. 


SHOALS OF STE. ANNE-SOUTH CHANNEL. 


453 


Buoys. —A black can buoy, No. 53B, lies in 7 fathoms on the 
northern edge of Ste. Anne shoals, with Orignaux Point lighthouse 
bearing 56°, distant 5.7 miles. 

A black can buoy, No. 55B, lies in 5 fathoms on the western point 
of the shoals, with Ouelle point bearing 73°, distant 6^ miles, and 
Lower Traverse lighthouse 217°, distant 2.9 miles. 

Leading mark. —Cape Diable, well open northward of Orignaux 
Point lighthouse, bearing 56°, leads northwestward of, but close to, 
Ste. Anne shoals southwestward of a line drawn about 310° from 
Ouelle point. 

Caution. —The first of the flood stream sets directly on to the 
shoulder of the bank in the vicinity of the lower buoy, and obliquely 
to the westward. These shoals are dangerous and caution must be 
observed in their vicinity. 

Anchorage. —There is excellent anchorage in from 7 to 10 fath¬ 
oms, stiff mud bottom, along the edge of the bank from Kamouraska 
islands to Ste. Anne upper buoy, No. 55B. 

The shoals trend southwestward 2.9 miles from Ste. Anne upper 
buoy to Lower Traverse lighthouse. 

South channel. Green island to the northeastern entrance of 
South Traverse. 

General remarks. —South channel is preferred for navigation 
to North channel, for the following reasons: In that part of it which 
is below the Traverse the tidal streams are not so strong, nor is the 
water so inconveniently deep, as in the corresponding part of North 
channel, and it possesses water enough for vessels of heavy draft 
at all times of tide, with good anchorage in almost every part. 

Vessels of heavy draft should not use Brandy Pots channel, west¬ 
ward of Middle bank, as there are not more than 21 feet at low water 
in crossing over the southwestern part of Middle bank to the main 
channel, but such vessels should pass eastward of Barrett ledges, Mid¬ 
dle shoal, and Middle bank, where the channel is direct. With the as¬ 
sistance of the buoys large vessels beat up or down South channel 
with safety. 

Directions from Green island to the northeastern entrance 
of South Traverse (see pp. 318 and 319).—Steering a course from 
Bic island, pass about 2 miles off Green Island reef, or about 1^ miles 
southeastward of Red Islet lightvessel. To avoid Green Island reef 
keep the High land of Bic well open northward of Basque island. 
When the eastern beacon on Green island is in line with the light¬ 
house, steer 205° to pass southeastward of Barrett ledge. The highest 
hill of St. Andre, open eastward of Great Pilgrim island, bearing 


454 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


199°, leads southeastward of these shoals, but except in thick weather 
the buoy should be the guide. From a position about 1,200 yards 
southeastward of Barrett Ledge bell and lightbuoy, and with the buoy 
abeam, steer 216°, with Green Island lighthouse just shutting in 
with the western end of Green island astern. When Fraserville 
church bears 83° keep a little to the westward and bring the north¬ 
western sides of Grande and Burnt islands in line, bearing 211°, and 
keep the range on steering in the fairway, passing 600 yards north¬ 
westward of Pilgrim Shoal lightbuoy to a position about 1 mile 
northwestward of Long Pilgrim lighthouse, having the lighthouse 
abeam. Thence steer 217° to pass about f mile northwestward of 
Grande Island lighthouse, whence steer a direct course 227° toward 
Middle Ground lightbuoy, thus giving Orignaux point and the shoals 
off Ouelle point a good berth. 

In following these directions care must be given to the state of the 
tides and to the clearing marks for the dangers already given. 

At night from Bic island steer to pass between Bed Islet bank and 
Green island, and when Bed Islet lightvessel bears about 320° dis¬ 
tant 1J miles and Green Island light 140° distant 2f miles, steer 208° 
direct for Barrett Ledge lightbuoy, but upon approaching it of course 
steer to the southward so as to leave it on the starboard hand. When 
past Green island the lights of White Island Beef lightvessel, Bed 
islet, and Brandy Pots are guides. Having passed about \ mile 
southeastward of Barrett Ledge lightbuoy, steer 218° to pass J mile 
northwestward of Pilgrim Shoal light and bell buoy. Now steer 
214°, passing 1.4 miles northwestward of Long Pilgrim light and 
about | mile northwestward of Grande Island light, whence steer a 
direct course 227° toward Middle Ground lightbuoy. 

Caution. —The vessel’s position should be frequently ascertained 
by bearings and soundings, particularly when near Ste. Anne shoals 
at the beginning of the flood stream. 

Tidal streams. —(See p. 475.) 

North Shore, Little Bergeron Cove to Cape Corbeau and Coudres 

Island. 

The north shore.— The northern shore of the St. Lawrence from 
Saguenay river to cape St. Joseph, a distance of about 48 miles, is 
bold and mountainous. The granite hills in most parts rise immedi¬ 
ately from the river, forming steep or precipitous headlands. Near 
the entrance of the Saguenay these hills are not above 1,000 feet high, 
but mount fiboulements, 43 miles to the southwestward, rises 2,551 
feet above high water. 

Vaches point. —The northern shore of the river from Little Ber¬ 
geron cove trends southwestward 5 miles to Vaches point, the north- 


MOULIN BAUDE ANCHORAGE—PRINCE SHOAL. 455 

eastern entrance point of Saguenay river, from which Red Islet 
lighthouse bears 129°, distant 64 miles. This shore is bordered for 
about 400 yards by bowlders, and at 14 miles from Little Bergeron 
cove shoal water commences, extending to a position about 1.2 miles 
eastward of Vaches point. The most noticeable landmarks in the 
neighborhood are the high clay cliffs near the Saguenay and the sand 
hills at Vaches point. 

Moulin Baude anchorage, in 7 fathoms, mud, is 65°, 24 miles 
from point Vaches, with Red islet and the southwestern end of Green 
island in line 153°. It is of use for vessels, coming up under the 
northern shore with a scant northwesterly wind at the end of the 
flood and close of the day, to wait for the next flood or for daylight, 
and also for vessels waiting for a wind to enter the Saguenay. The 
position given is 800 yards distant from the 3-fathom line of sound¬ 
ings, nearly 1 mile offshore, and the water becomes deep immediately 
outside it. 

Vaches Point reef dries out 4 mile southeastward from Vaches 
point. 

Vaches patch, with 13 feet water over it, lies If miles 103° 
from Vaches point, and is a continuation of Vaches Point reef. 

Buoy. —A red conical buoy, No. 94 B, is moored 150 yards south- 
westward of the patch. 

Rocky patches. —Two rocky patches lie about 14 miles north- 
eastward of Vaches patch; the least depth found on them was 7 
fathoms, but they may be extending eastward, and the depth over 
them may be decreasing. 

Lights at point Noire, the western entrance point of the Saguenay 
(see p. 429.) 

Prince shoal, a narrow ridge of stones and bowlders, with 17 feet 
least water, extends nearly 1 mile about northwest and southeast, and 
the eastern patch of the shoal lies 91°, 2f miles from Lark islet. This 
shoal is reported to have much less water than 17 feet. 

Lightvessel.— A lightvessel, painted red, with “ Prince shoal No. 
7 ” on her sides in white letters, is moored in 4 fathoms on the southern 
edge of the western of the two southern patches of Prince shoal, and 
exhibits three fixed lights, thus: A white light on the foremast at 25 
feet above water; a white light on the mainmast at 31 feet above 
water; and a red light on the stay between the masts at 49 feet above 
water; these lights should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 9 
miles. The lightvessel has two masts and carries a red ball at the 
mainmast head, which is lowered, and the mainmast light, also is not 
lighted, when she is out of position. 


456 


ST. LA WHENCE RIVER. 


Fog signal. —In thick weather the lightvessel sounds by means 
of a steam fog whistle 2 blasts, each of 4 seconds duration, every 
minute, thus: Blast 4 seconds, silent interval 4 seconds, blast 4 sec¬ 
onds, silent interval 48 seconds. 

Submarine fog bell. —A submarine bell, fitted to Prince Shoal 
lightvessel, during thick weather strikes the lightvessel’s number, 
“ 7,” every 22 seconds, thus: 7 strokes at intervals of 2 seconds^ be¬ 
tween the strokes; interval, 10 seconds. There may be slight varia¬ 
tions in these intervals. 

Bar reef extends westward about 1 mile from a point -§ mile west¬ 
ward of the southwestern patch of Prince shoal; the least depth on 
this reef is 9 feet. 

Lark point (pointe a l’Alouette), the southwestern entrance point 
of the Saguenay, is 2J miles 182° from Vaches point, and is com¬ 
posed of clay cliffs. 

Lark islet (lie aux Morts) is composed of shingle and bowlders, 
is small and low, and lies 1 mile 57° from Lark point, to which it is 
joined by sand and bowlders dry at low water. 

Light. — A square white lighthouse, 40 feet high, on the middle of 
Lark islet, exhibits, at 35 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

There is a white dwelling house near the lighthouse. 

Lark reef (battures de l’Alouette) is composed of sand and bowl¬ 
ders, dry at low water nearly out to the edge of the shoal water, 
which extends all the way from a point 1J miles 55° from Lark 
point to a position 136°, 3£ miles from Lark point, whence the shoal 
water turns sharply to the westward of southwest and joins the 
shore of the mainland just southwestward of Basque road. Lark 
patch, near the southern end of this reef, never covers. Between this 
extensive reef, including Bar reef and Prince shoal on the south and 
Vaches Point reef on the north, is the entrance of Saguenay river. 

Buoy. —A red conical buoy, No. 96 B, is moored on the southeast¬ 
ern extreme of the reef with Lark Islet lighthouse bearing 334°, 3£ 
miles. 

Leading marks. —Brandy Pots, open southeastward of White 
islet, bearing 195°, leads about £ mile southeastward of Prince 
shoal and Lark reef; it also clears the rocky patches with a least 
depth of 7 fathoms, which lie 1£ miles eastward of Vaches patch. 
The western half of Cacouna island open westward of Red islet, 
bearing 163°, leads eastward of these patches; and the southwestern 
end of Red islet in line with the southwestern end of Green island, 
152°, leads westward of them. 

Canard river is a small stream which is celebrated for wild ducks 
and the entrance of which is at the western termination of the clay 


ECHAFAJJD ISLET-CAPE DOGS. 457 

cliffs, 2J miles southwestward of Lark point; a boat can approach 
the river only near high water. 

Echafaud islet is a small, steep, and rocky islet lying off the 
mouth of a cove full of rocks, 5 miles southwestward of Lark point. 
Lark reef terminates close southward of Echafaud islet, and from the 
islet the southern side of Lark reef trends eastward for about 5 miles. 

Cape Basque, south-southwestward 6| miles from Lark point, is a 
very bold mountainous headland, with a depth of 20 fathoms close 
to it. 

Basque road, between cape Basque and Lark reef, is a good an¬ 
chorage, sheltered by the reef from easterly winds, and by the main¬ 
land from northerly and westerly winds as far southward as 203°. 
There is room for many vessels, but the best berth is with Echafaud 
islet bearing 272° distant rather less than 1 mile, in 10 fathoms, clay 
bottom, and nearly \ mile from the 3-fathom line. There is anchor¬ 
age farther out in 13 fathoms, but the farther out the stronger the 
stream. At the anchorage recommended the tidal streams are not 
strong, and the holding ground is good. There is no anchorage off 
the northern shore anywhere southwestward of this to Murray bay, a 
distance of 28 miles. 

Bay of Rocks, having an island and many large rocks in it, is 
about 2^ miles south-southwestward of cape Basque, and affords 
shelter only to boats. There is a telegraph office here. 

Cape Dogs, 5J miles south-southwestward of cape Basque, is quite 
bold, high, precipitous, and composed of bare granite. 

The shore from cape Dogs trends south-southwes : ward 10 miles 
to cape Salmon, and is generally bold. At about 2 miles south- 
southwestward of cape Dogs is Shettle port, at 4J miles is riviere 
Noire, and at 7£ miles is Port Parsley; these places are suitable only 
for boats. Improvements have recently (1902) been made at riviere 
Noire, which appears now to be a harbor available for small craft; 
there is a village and a wharf at the river. 

Lights. —An octagonal white tower with a red roof, rising from 
the red roof of the drab freight shed on the wharf at the village of 
St. Simeon, situated on the St. Lawrence, i mile above the mouth of 
the river Noire, exhibits, at 40 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 11 miles. 
The light is visible over an arc of 163° from 210°, through west and 
north to 13°. 

Fog signal. —A fog horn answers vessels’ fog signals. 

A square white lighthouse, with a red lantern, rising from the 
middle of the southeastern side of a dwelling, the whole building 


458 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


being 46 feet high, and situated on a point about 900 yards north- 
northeastward of cape Salmon, and locally known as pointe des 
Roches, exhibits, at 82 feet above high water, a revolving white light, 
which attains its greatest brilliancy every 15 seconds, and should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 14 miles. 

The light is obscured by the land when bearing eastward of 35°. 

Fog signal.—A steam fog horn, placed on the edge of the cliff 
southeastward of the lighthouse, gives blasts of 8 seconds duration 
with intervals of 22 seconds. 

Cape Salmon is high and bold. 

The bay between cape Salmon and cape Eagle, southwestward 5J 
miles from it, is formed by the shore trending westward and then 
south-southwestward; it is 1 mile from entrance to head, but affords 
no anchorage in consequence of the great depth of water. At about 
1J miles westward of cape Salmon is Port Salmon, a small cove which 
large boats enter at high water. 

The settlements on the northern shore of the St. Lawrence are con¬ 
tinuous from Port Salmon along the river bank to Quebec, but east¬ 
ward of the port they are more dispersed. 

St. Fidele village is situated about 1J miles above Port Salmon; 
it has a telegraph office and a wharf. 

Cape Eagle, 5J miles southwestward from cape Salmon, is bold, 
high, and precipitous. 

The shore from cape Eagle trends north-northwestward for about 
600 yards and then southwestward 4f miles to cap a l’Aigle. It is 
clear of outlying dangers, but shoal water extends nearly 4 mile off it, 
about 3 miles southwestward of cape Eagle. 

Light.—A mast, 35 feet high on the end of a pier extending south¬ 
eastward from the eastern part of cap a l’Aigle, exhibits, at 38 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 6 miles. 

Murray bay, or Mai baie, lies between cap a l’Aigle and pointe au 
Pic, which bears 216°, 2.8 miles from it, and the bay is 1 mile deep 
from entrance to head, but it is nearly all dry at low water, except¬ 
ing the shallow channels through which the river Mai Baie discharges. 
This river, flowing down a beautiful valley from two or three small 
lakes among the hills, is rapid and unnavigable. 

Shoal.—The flat which fills Murray bay commences about j mile 
westward of cap a l’Aigle; thence its outer edge in 3 fathoms trends 
approximately southwestward to a position J mile eastward of Mur¬ 
ray Bay pier, and thence westward to the land northward of that pier. 
The southwestern end of the flat has depths of 4 feet over it in some 
places. 


MURRAY BAY. 


459 


Buoy. —A red conical buoy, No. 100B, is moored on the south¬ 
eastern extreme of the shoal off pointe au Pic in 2£ fathoms water, 
with the pier light bearing 247°, distant £ mile. 

Leading mark. —St. Irenee church, bearing 225° and well open 
southeastward of cape Sain, leads southeastward of this shoal, and 
vessels approaching the pier should keep its northeastern side hidden 
by the southeastern front. 

Pier. —A pier, known as Murray Bay pier, extends southeastward 
from the shore at nearly 200 yards northeastward of pointe au Pic. 
It has a depth of 18 feet at its end at lowest tides. 

Light. —A white lantern on the red roof of the freight shed on 
Murray Bay pier exhibits, at 36 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 10 miles. 

Anchorage. —The anchorage off Murray bay is close under the 
high rocky shore, with pointe le Heu, the northern point of the bay, 
bearing 261°, distant about 800 yards, and pointe au Pic 208°. The 
bottom here is clay, good holding ground, and the depth 12 fathoms, 
but the edge of the shoal water is distant only about £ mile. This 
position is out of the strength of the tidal streams, well sheltered 
from the prevailing winds, and a vessel well moored is safe, although 
inconveniently near the shore unless she be taking in cargo. There 
is anchorage a little farther out in about 16 fathoms, but the tidal 
streams are there very strong. 

Anchorage has been obtained by a steamer in 17 fathoms, with the 
outer end of Murray Bay pier bearing 280°, distant about 800 yards. 

Directions. —From the eastward for the anchorage off pointe le 
lieu give the shore a berth of £ mile, in order to avoid the shoal 
w T ater which extends nearly £ mile offshore about midway between 
cape Eagle and point le Heu. From the westward keep St. Irenee 
church well open southeastward of cape Sain, in order to clear the 
edge of the shoal flat which fills Murray bay, and when St. Etienne 
(Murray bay) church bears 295° haul into the anchorage. 

Murray bay is one of the best known and most frequented sum¬ 
mer resorts on the northern shore of the St. Lawrence, and there are 
not many places in Canada that can be justly compared with it for 
beauty of scenery. The viJlage, which contains St. Etienne church, 
is situated on both sides of the mouth of river Mai Bale, and the set¬ 
tlements extend some miles back from the St. Lawrence. There are 
grist and saw mills on the river, and lumber cut at the sawmills is 
shipped to Quebec mostly in small schooners, which lie aground near, 
or in the entrance of, the river. Occasionally vessels anchor off the 
bay and take in cargoes of lumber. In 1901 the population of Mai 
baie was 826 and of pointe au Pic 537. 


460 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Slight shocks of earthquake are not infrequent at Murray bay and 
between it and bay St. Paul, 20 miles southwestward. 

Communication. —During summer, from June to October, steam¬ 
ers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, running to 
and from Quebec, call at Murray Bay pier daily, and the traffic is 
heavy. 

Telegraph. —There is a telegraph office at Murray bay. 

The shore from pointe au Pic trends southwestward for 4f miles, 
when it turns southward for about 2 miles to Jareux point; it is bold 
to about 200 yards off it for the first 2 miles of this distance; thence 
it is bordered by a shoal for about f mile. 

St. Irenee village lies 4§ miles south-southwestward of pointe au 
Pic; it contains a church, several sawmills, two grist mills, and a 
cheese factory. A pier extends from the shore abreast the village, 
at which steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation company 
call. 

Light. —A small square lantern on the apex of the brown roof of 
the drab colored freight shed, at the outer end of St. Irenee pier, 
exhibits, at 32 feet above high water, a fixed light, which shows red 
to the eastward or downstream, and white to the westward and 
southwestward. It should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 
7 miles. 

Fog signal. —At St. Irenee lighthouse a hand fog horn answers 
the fog signals of vessels in the neighborhood. 

The shore at Jareux point becomes steep and trends south-south- 
westward If miles to cape Corneille. 

Little Mai bay lies between cape Corneille and Goose cape, 1.2 
miles farther south-southwestward, and is filled with a reef, which, 
however, does not extend beyond the line of its entrance points. 

Goose cape is a small wooded bluff, the end of a spur of the higher 
ranges; it is bold, and landing may be effected, in ordinary weather, 
in a small cove westward of the lighthouse. The ebb stream off the 
cape is rapid. From the cape a shingle beach extends westward. 

Light. —A square white lighthouse, 42 feet high, with dwelling 
attached, on Goose cape, exhibits, at 55 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, that should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 
miles. 

Mount Eboulements, 312°, H miles from Goose cape, is 2,551 feet 
high, and the highest peak of the ranges that form the northwestern 
side of the river in this locality: it is surrounded by smaller conical 
mountains. 

Cape Martin bears 249°, 2.9 miles from Goose cape and is a con¬ 
spicuous, sharp, projecting cliff. Shoal water lies in the bay between 


CAPE MARTIN-ST. JOSEPH BANK. 


461 


these points, and attains, at about midway between them, a distance 
of nearly 1,200 yards from the shore. 

Anchorage between Goose cape and cape Martin in T to 8 fathoms 
is good and sheltered from easterly winds. The best berth is with 
the western end of the shingle beach that extends westward from 
Goose cape bearing 295°. 

Tidal streams. —The tidal streams, however, are irregular here 
and occasionally strong; thus in a vessel at anchor too far out in 8f 
fathoms, and only neaps, the first of the flood came round Goose cape 
with a great rippling, and set slanting on the shore at the rate of 5> 
knots, which soon decreased to 3f knots. About 1 hour from its 
commencement the rate of the stream increased to 4J knots, and after 
continuing so for a short time it decreased to 2-f knots, which rate 
it retained for the remainder of the tide, setting fairly along shore. 
Farther out, in 10 fathoms, the ebb also is strong. 

Leading mark. —Cape St. Joseph in line with cape Martin, bear¬ 
ing 251°, leads close southward of the depth of 18 feet at low water, 
within this anchorage. 

Eboulements bay, between cape Martin and cape St. Joseph, 3 
miles to the westward, is about 3 miles across and 1,200 yards deep, 
but it dries at low water, except in some channels through which 
riviere du Moulin discharges. In this bay small craft lie on the mud 
within the large bowlders on the edge of the shoals. 

Les Eboulements village, which contains the church of Notre 
Dame des Eboulements, 1,186 feet above high water, is situated north¬ 
westward If miles from cape Martin. Its population is about 900. 

There is also a settlement on the shores of Eboulements bay. 

The country in this locality is well cultivated, even on the steep 
slopes of the mountains. 

Cape St. Joseph is the end of a promontory which is faced by 
sand cliffs; and a pier, with a depth of 9f feet at its end at low water, 
extends from the middle of the promontory. From these features 
the cape is easily recognized. 

Light. —A lantern on the roof of a brown shed at the end of cape 
St, Joseph pier, exhibits, at 22 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, that should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 9 miles from 
all points of approach by water. 

Fog signal.—A hand fog horn at the lighthouse at cape St. Joseph 
answers the fog signals of vessels in the vicinity. 

Cape Corbeau lies about 3| miles westward of cape St. Joseph. 

St. Joseph bank dries for about \ mile off the shore for 1 mile 
westward of cape St. Joseph, whence the bank gradually closes to 
cape Corbeau. 


462 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


There is a conspicuous landslip on the shore at 1\ miles westward 
of cape St. Joseph. 

Light—Pier. —A lantern on the top of a drab colored freight 
shed at the end of a pier extending about 500 yards from cape Cor- 
beau, exhibits, at 31 feet above high water, a fixed white light, that 
should be seen in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 

Directions. —To clear the shoal water eastward and westward of 
cape St. Joseph, when going westward, keep the landslip open south¬ 
ward of the pier at cape St. Joseph, bearing 265°, until Goose cape 
is in line with cape Martin, bearing 64°, which latter range leads in 
mid-channel to St. Paul bay. 

North channel, Little Bergeron cove to cape CorbExXcj. 

General remarks. —The channel northwestward of Red islet and 
its bank, and between the 3 fathoms limits of the latter and the shoals 
off Saguenay river, is 2J miles wide, with very deep water. North 
channel, farther southwestward, is much wider, being nowhere less 
than 3J miles in width. 

North channel, from Red islet to Goose cape, is usually over 30 and 
sometimes over 50 fathoms in depth, and it affords no anchorage ex¬ 
cept those just described. Anchorage, however, might be obtained 
on the northwestern side of Hare Island bank, and on English bank, 
but only in fine weather could vessels ride in such exposed situations. 

This want of good and convenient anchorages renders this part of 
North channel unsuitable for ordinary navigation, especially by 
sailing vessels. 

In South channel, above Cacouna, there is anchorage almost every¬ 
where; but in North channel, in a calm, a sailing vessel is carried 
by the strong tidal streams, and might be set on shore if in the 
vicinity of Red islet or the shoals off the Saguenay. 

North channel is a fine, wide, and straight channel, free from 
detached shoals, but it should not be attempted with easterly winds 
and thick weather nor at night. The ebb streams setting down the 
St. Lawrence and out of the Saguenay, at the rate of about 6 knots, 
meeting the high swell sent up the estuary in northeasterly gales, 
causes a very heavy cross breaking sea, which it is difficult to dis¬ 
tinguish from shoal water. 

Directions. —If, however, the circumstances make it desirable to 
take North channel, when off Little Bergeron cove, bring White 
islet open its own breadth northward of Brandy Pots bearing 195°, 
and proceed southwestward with this range on. Prince Shoal light- 
vessel is a good guide. 

Do not bring White islet to touch Brandy Pots, because this line 
passes nearly over the rocky patches eastward of Yaches shoal, on 


TIDAL STREAMS. 


463 


which soundings of 7 fathoms have been obtained, but there may be 
less water. The southwestern half of Cacouna island open south- 
westward of Red islet, bearing 163°, leads eastward of these patches. 
There is no difficulty, when proceeding against the ebb stream, in 
passing northward and westward of the patches. 

When Red Islet lighthouse bears 69°, or the red conical buoy on 
the southeastern extreme of Lark reef is abeam, steer directly up 
the middle of the channel between Hare island and the northern 
shore to Coudres island. In the event of the wind and tide failing, 
anchorage may be obtained on Hare Island bank, English bank, 
Murray bay, and westward of Goose cape. (For directions up North 
channel from Coudres island to Quebec, see page 466.) 

Tidal streams—Red islet to South Traverse and Coudres 
island.—The direction of the tidal streams is indicated by arrows on 
the charts. 

The principal flood stream ascends along the northern side of the 
estuary of the St. Lawrence. One part of this stream sets from below 
Bergeron coves toward and over the tail of Red Islet bank, curves 
round that bank to the southward, and then passes into North 
channel between Red islet and Hare Island North reef. At the same 
time a smaller flood stream ascends along the southern shore close 
outside Razade, Basque, Apple, and Green islands, and also inside 
them after the shoals are covered. When these two flood streams 
meet the last of the ebb, and afterwards each other, between Green 
island and Red islet, they cause high breaking ripplings, which can 
be heard at some distance on a still night, and which appear like 
broken water on a shoal. Each of these two flood streams is strongest 
near its own side, and there is consequently little or no flood in mid- 
channel, particularly at neaps and with westerly winds. 

Westward of Cacouna island the flood in South channel sets fairly 
up the river on either side of Barrett ledges, Middle shoal, and 
Middle bank, but its strongest part passes up the deep water north¬ 
westward of these shoals, between them and Brandy Pots and Hare 
island, where its rate is 2£ to 3 knots at springs. On arriving at 
Hare Island bank, a great part of this stream passes between that 
bank and Hare island into North channel; the remainder runs over 
the tail of the bank back into South channel. The flood then sets 
fairly up South channel, and between Pilgrim islands and Hare 
Island bank, above which it becomes very weak, especially at neaps, 
until abreast Orignaux point, whence it gradually increases in 
strength, being aided by a branch of the northern stream setting 
between English and Hare Island banks, until it attains its greatest 
rate of 7J knots in South Traverse. 

Another part of the principal flood stream passes between Red Islet 
bank and the shoals off the Saguenay, whilst a third part ascends that 


464 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


river for a distance of TO miles, or to the rapids. When the flood, 
stream first makes, it meets the ebb stream down the channel north¬ 
ward of Hare island, and causes a tremendous rippling, extending 
from Lark reef to Red islet. Above Red islet, the principal flood 
stream, after sweeping round westward past bay of Rocks, pursues 
a tolerably fair course up North channel as high as cape Eagle, off 
which it divides again; the southern part proceeding southward of 
English bank, on its way to South Traverse; whilst the northern 
part passes between English bank and the north shore up to Goose 
cape. 

Off Goose cape this northern part of the flood stream again divides; 
one, the lesser and weaker part, passing southward of Coudres island, 
throws off, at the first of the tide, branches to the southward, which 
pass over the western part of English bank, on either side of Middle 
ground, and between the latter and the shoals eastward of the reefs 
off Seal islands, into South channel. This seems to arise from the 
flood being earlier in North than in South channel, and hence the 
first of the flood for about 1 hour sets southward at South Traverse, 
and on Ste. Anne and St. Roch shoals. The other and principal part 
passes between Coudres island and the northern shore, where «it at¬ 
tains a rate of 5 knots at springs. 

Generally the direction of the ebb stream is always nearly the 
contrary to that of the flood, excepting between Red islet and Green 
island, and eastward of Red islet. The principal part of the ebb 
down North channel, being turned to the southeastward by Lark 
reef, comes through between Hare island, North reef, and Red islet, 
setting toward the northeastern end of Green island at a rate of 
5 to 6 knots at springs. The ebb stream out of Saguenay river is 
equally strong, and sets toward the northern end of Red Islet bank, 
whence curving to the eastward, it unites with the St. Lawrence ebb, 
from which it can be readily distinguished by the dark color of its 
water, and both together set down the estuary, as has already been 
explained. 

The flood and ebb are less unequal in duration in North than in 
South channel, and in both channels the flood and ebb streams, upon 
an average, continue f and 1 hour, respectively, after high and low 
water on the shore. 

The times of high and low water on the shore do not seem to be 
much affected by winds, but the amount of the tidal rise and fall, 
and the duration of the streams, are considerably affected by strong 
winds; nevertheless, as an approximation near enough for practical 
purposes, when the stream of flood makes in mid-channel the tide has 
risen on the shore at Brandy Pots 1J feet, and at South Traverse 2J 
feet; and when the ebb stream makes, the tide has fallen about 2 feet 
on the shore. 


CHAPTEE XII. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC—ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, SOUTH, 
MIDDLE, AND NORTH CHANNELS TO QUEBEC. 

Variation in 1908. 

St. Roch des Aulnaies_19° 50' W. Saut au Cochon_18° 50' W. 

Quebec___17° 05' W. 

Note. —The St. Lawrence above Ouelle point on the east, and cape 
St. Joseph on the west, which were described in the last chapter, is 
divided into three channels by shoals and islands, and the navigation 
becomes very intricate. The eastern entrances of all three of these 
channels are rendered more or less difficult by their narrowness, the 
want of good anchorage in them, or the rate of the tidal streams. 

South channel lies along the southern shore and between it and 
the shoals and islands occupying the central part of the river from 
South Traverse to Quebec. This channel, which is buoyed, is gen¬ 
erally used for navigation; it is preferable to the others, having ex¬ 
cellent anchorage, and moderate rates of the tidal streams in every 
part, except for a few miles in the Traverse. Vessels of heavy draft 
proceed by it to Quebec at all times of tide, but there is a depth of 
only 23 feet at low water over the bar at the southwestern end of 
Beaujeu channel, or that part of South channel which lies between 
Beaujeu bank and Crane island, and not more than 17 feet at low 
water southeastward of Beaujeu bank. Therefore, in this part of the 
channel, great caution must be used and great attention given to the 
tidal data. 

Middle channel lies between the shoals and islands, which form 
the western side of South channel, and the long line of shoals and 
reefs which extend from Coudres island to Beaux island. In one 
part of it, near the eastern entrance of Middle Traverse there are not 
more than 2£ fathoms at low water. Above this shallow part, there 
is room and water enough for vessels of heavy draft, until at the 
group of islands between Crane island and Orleans island, where 
Middle channel communicates with South channel by various narrow 
passages between the islands, in which there is plenty of water at all 
times, but very rapid tidal streams. Although, by placing buoys 
where requisite, it is possible to take large vessels up to Quebec by 

465 


50918—08-30 





466 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Middle channel were it actually necessary to do so, yet it is too intri¬ 
cate and difficult for general navigation. This channel is, therefore, 
not further described in this book. 

North channel runs along between the high northern shore of 
the river on the northwest and Coudres island and the line of shoals 
which extends from the latter to Neptune rock and Burnt Cape ledges 
on the southeast, and thence through North Traverse between the 
shoals which reach from Burnt Cape ledges nearly to Beaux island, 
and those which lie off the northeastern end of Orleans island. 
From North Traverse this channel continues between Beaux and 
Madame islands on the eastern side, and Orleans island on the west¬ 
ern, till it unites with South channel opposite St. Vallier. 

This channel was formerly in general use, but it is now little known 
to the majority of the pilots. It is broader than South channel, but 
the streams are much more rapid, and in the Narrows at its western 
end there is a depth of only 24 feet at low water. 

Starting from Green island to Quebec, at the beginning of a fair 
tidal stream, a steamer with a speed of about 10 knots may, however, 
gain 1 hour in the passage by taking North rather than South 
channel. 

The anchorage generally in North channel is not good, the bottom 
being foul from St. Paul bay southwestward to cape Maillard, and 
the tidal stream being very rapid. There is, however, anchorage on 
the western edge of the bank on the southeastern side of the channel, 
in a depth of about 10 fathoms. 

Between Coudres island and the northern shore of the river, there 
is anchorage only in St. Paul bay and Prairie bay, both of which 
afford security in any weather; but with northerly winds heavy 
squalls come down from the north shore hills. 

Above Coudres island to Brule bank the channel is straight, 1J to 
2 ^ miles wide, and entirely clear. The depth of water is not incon¬ 
veniently great, nowhere exceeding 18 fathoms at low water in mid¬ 
channel; but it is generally about 11 or 12 fathoms, shoaling toward 
the sides of the channel, where there is good anchorage out of the 
strength of the streams. There is, however, much more sea and tide 
in this long and open reach than in the corresponding parts of South 
channel; and in the fall of the year the northwesterly squalls off the 
mountains are heavy and frequent. Altogether, for general naviga¬ 
tion, though South channel is preferable, North channel is good, and 
it frequently remains free from ice for some time after South channel 
becomes unnavigable in the fall of the year. 

Orleans channel, between Orleans island and the northwestern 
shore of the St. Lawrence, is a good passage for small vessels, but is 
not available for those of heavy draft. 


SOUTH CHANNEL. 


467 


South channel, the South Traverse to Crane island. 

The southern shore of the lower St. Lawrence from St. Roch 
point to St. Thomas, a distance of 24 miles, trends south-southwest- 
w^ard, is low, and composed of slate; inland it rises gradually in a 
series of ridges to a long wooded range, which is 4J to 6 miles distant 
from the river, and attains a height of 1,666 feet. The houses are 
almost continuous on this shore, with villages near the churches. 

Supplies in small quantities, with the exception of coal, may gen¬ 
erally be obtained at the villages. 

St. Jean Port Joli.—The village of St. Jean Port Joli, at 7 miles 
south-southwestward of St. Roch des Aulnaies, contains a church 
which has a spire. 

Pier.—There is a pier at St. Jean Port Joli 454 feet long, which 
has a depth of 5 feet at low water at its outer end. 

The shore from St. Jean Port Joli continues south-southwestward, 
and at a distance of 2J miles is Port Joli, where there is a stream 
which admits small craft at half tide. 

Railway and telegraph.—There are stations of the Intercolonial 
railway at about 1 mile inland from the villages of St. Jean Port 
Joli, L’Islet, St. Ignace, and St. Thomas. The railway stations are 
connected by telegraph with the universal system. 

Trois Saumons river, 1 mile south-southwestward of Port Joli, 
has a large sawmill near its mouth; the river admits small craft at 
about half tide. 

L’Islet village is situated 2} miles southwestward of the entrance 
of Trois Saumons river; its church has two spires. At 1 mile north¬ 
eastward of L’Islet church, and about 2.2 miles from Trois Saumons 
river, there is a conspicuous cross on a cliff 59 feet high. 

Signal station.—The telegraph and signal station at L’Islet is 
situated 300 yards northeastward of the church, and close westward 
of the convent, which is a square stone building surmounted by a 
turret. 

Pier—Beacon.—The pier at L’lslet is 1,105 feet long, with a depth 
of 8 feet at low water close to its outer end; a black frame beacon 
stands on the end of this pier. 

The shore from L’Islet trends southwestward for nearly 5£ miles 
to a point on which there is a disused mill, whence there is a 
bight about 1 $ miles across to cape St. Ignace. This bight dries at 
low water. 

St. Eugene church, at about 3 miles southward of L’lslet, has a 
spire. 

There is a small pier, which dries at about half tide, at anse a 
Giles, 3£ miles southwestward of L’lslet. 


468 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Cape St. Ignace is a conical mound 52 feet high covered with 
small bushes. There is a wharf on the eastern side of the cape, but 
it can be approached only at or near high water. 

St. Ignace village is about } mile inland from the cape; its church 
has a spire. 

The shore from cape St. Ignace trends southwestward 4£ miles to 
a channel through which the united rivers Bras St. Nicholas, flowing 
from the eastward, and riviere du Sud, from the southwestward, dis¬ 
charge their waters. The combined streams fall in a cascade about 
30 feet high to a small bight, called the basin, at J mile within St. 
Thomas pier. 

There is a small pier at 1£ miles southwestward of cape St. Ignace, 
but it dries at about half tide. 

St. Thomas de Montmagny village is on both banks of riviere 
du Sud at £ mile within the entrance; its church has one spire. 

The village, which has a population of 1,919 inhabitants, contains a 
sawmill, a pulp mill, two foundries, and iron works. Important ship¬ 
pings of lumber are made to European markets. 

St. Thomas pier, 205 feet long, at the western entrance point of 
riviere du Sud, has a depth of 4 feet at its end at low water. 

The channel from St. Thomas pier and basin through St. Thomas 
bank to the river St. Lawrence trends northeastward in one bend and 
is marked by buoys, but it nearly dries at low water. 

Bank.—A bank which dries at low water extends £ mile off cape 
St. Ignace, and continues along the shore to the southwestward, 
attaining a distance of 1 mile offshore at £ mile eastward of the 
river entrance. St. Thomas bank is a continuation of this bank. 
(See p. 475.) 

The high-water bank near St. Thomas is receding, and each year 
more is broken away by ice and sea;‘the low-water line, however, is 
not changing much. 

Lights.—A white open framework tower 26 feet high at the outer 
end of St. Thomas pier at the western entrance of the riviere du Sud, 
exhibits at 26 feet above high water a fixed red light that should be 
seen in clear weather a distance of 3 miles. 

A white framework tower 36 feet high, situated 164°, 657 yards 
from the preceding light, exhibits at 44 feet above high water a fixed 
red light that should be seen, through a small arc on each side of the 
range line, in clear weather a distance of 3 miles. 

These lights are leading lights for entering the harbor only, which 
should not be attempted without local knowledge. 

The shore from St. Thomas pier continues southwestward for 3 
miles to St. Thomas point, which is low. St. Thomas bank. (See 
p. 475.) 


ST. ROCH SHOALS. 


469 


St. Roch shoals join those of Ste. Anne and continue southwest- 
ward at a considerable distance from the shore from St. Roch to St. 
Thomas. 

South Traverse is a channel 450 yards wide at its narrowest part, 
between St. Roch shoals on the east and Middle ground with the 
shoals between it and Goose island on the west. 

Lights—Lower Traverse lighthouse, a brown cylindrical tower 
surmounting a rectangular building on a concrete base, altogether 
50 feet high, situated on the northern end of St. Roch shoals, with 
Upper Traverse lighthouse bearing 206°, distant 1.6 miles, exhibits, 
at 55 feet above high water, a flashing white light, thus: Light, 1 
second; eclipse, 4 seconds, which should be seen, in clear weather, a 
distance of 13 miles. 

Fog signal.—A diaphone trumpet at the lighthouse gives 1 blast 
of 3 seconds’ duration every minute, thus: Blast, 3 seconds; interval, 
57 seconds, during thick and foggy weather. The trumpet, which is 
worked by compressed air, projects from the northern side of the 
lighthouse and is 20 feet above high water. 

Upper Traverse lighthouse, a square white building with a red 
roof, above which rises a square white tower with a red lantern, the 
height of the lighthouse being 42 feet, situated on a concrete base on 
the northwestern edge of St. Roch shoals with St. Roch church bear¬ 
ing 107°, distant 3.9 miles, exhibits at 47 feet above high water a 
fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
12 miles. 

Fog signal.—A bell is sounded by hand at short intervals during 
thick weather, fog, or snow storms. 

Middle ground forms the northwestern side of the northeastern 
part of South Traverse channel. 

Middle ground lightbuoy.—The northeastern end of the shoal 
is marked by a cylindrical red lightbuoy, No. 56B, moored in 31 feet, 
which exhibits an intermittent white light every 7 seconds, thus: 
Light 4 seconds, eclipsed 3 seconds, visible 8 miles. 

South Traverse Middle ground lightbuoy.—The southeast¬ 
ern edge of the shoal is marked by a red cylindrical lightbuoy, No. 
58B, situated north-northeastward of Lower Traverse lighthouse, and 
it exhibits an intermittent white light every 10 seconds, thus: Light 
7 seconds, eclipsed 3 seconds, visible 8 miles. 

Upper Traverse lightbuoy.—The southwestern end of the shoal 
is marked, at 900 yards 291° from Upper Traverse lighthouse, by a 
red cylindrical lightbuoy, No. 60B, which exhibits an intermittent 
white light every 13 seconds, thus: Light 7 seconds, eclipsed 6 sec¬ 
onds, visible 8 miles. 


470 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


St. B-och shoals—Buoys.—A black can buoy, No. 61B, is moored 
westward of St. Koch shoals with Upper Traverse lighthouse bear¬ 
ing 22°, distant 3.2 miles, nearly. 

A black can buoy, No. 63B, is moored westward of St. Roch shoals 
with St. Jean Port Joli church bearing 144°, distant 2f miles. 

Channel patch is a narrow ridge directly in the way of vessels 
using South channel, extending about a mile north-northeastward 
and south-southwestward, with depths of 21 to 25 feet water over it. 
From the shoalest part of the patch, which is about 400 yards from 
its southwestern end, Stone Pillar bears 213°, distant 2.6 miles. The 
passage westward of Channel patch must not be used for navigation. 

Lightbuoy.—The shoalest part of the patch is marked by a bell 
and light buoy, No. 64B, painted red and black in horizontal stripes, 
and showing an intermittent white light, eclipsed every 6 seconds. 
This buoy alters its position about 200 yards with the tidal streams. 

Shoals.—Several shoals with depths of 15 to 21 feet over them lie 
between Channel patch and Stone Pillar; the highest part of Goose 
Island reef just open southward of Stone Pillar, bearing 218°, leads 
southeastward of them. 

The northern edge of the shoal ground off St. Jean Port Joli is 
distant only J mile southeastward of Channel patch, and here there 
are two 19-foot shoals, with 8 fathoms at 300 yards northwestward 
of them. 

Port Joli shoal—Lightbuoy.—A cylindrical black lightbuoy, 
No. 65B, is moored in 5 fathoms on the western side of the northern 
of two 2f-fathom patches off Port Joli, with Stone Pillar light 
bearing 253°, distant a little more than 1 mile, and it exhibits an 
intermittent white light every 12 seconds, thus: Light 7 seconds, 
eclipsed 5 seconds, visible 8 miles. 

Seal islands, situated in the middle of the river and north¬ 
westward, 6 miles from Port Joli, are three islets, each about 6 feet 
high, and the highest parts of a long slate reef which is covered at 
high water. There are three houses on the eastern islet, with a cross 
and two high bushes near them; on the western islet is a conspicuous 
spruce tree surrounded by low bushes. The reef is surrounded by 
shoal water. 

The Pillars are two small and steep islets of graywacke rock 
named Wood Pillar and Stone Pillar. 

Wood Pillar, 289°, 3f miles from Port Joli, is 600 yards long 
and 81 feet above high water. There is a beacon on this islet which 
is partly obscured by trees, and can be seen only from a short distance. 
Middle rock, 900 yards, 60° from Wood Pillar, to which it is connected 
by a shoal, dries 17 feet at low water. A shoal which extends 2^ 


STONE PILLAR-GOOSE ISLAND REEF. 471 

miles northeastward from Wood Pillar continues from it southwest- 
ward to the northeastern point of Goose island. 

Stone Pillar, 1J miles eastward from Wood Pillar, is quite bare. 
(See p. 470.) Shoals between Stone Pillar and Channel Patch. 

Light.—A circular, gray stone lighthouse, with a red lantern, 52 
feet high, at about 100 yards from the southern point of Stone Pillar, 
exhibits, at 75 feet above high water, a revolving white light, which 
attains its greatest brilliancy every 4 minute, and should be seen, in 
clear weather, a distance of 13 miles. 

There is a white dwelling with a brown roof near the lighthouse. 

Algernon,, or South, rock, which covers at half tide, is steep-to 
on all sides but the northeastern, from which shoal water extends 300 
yards to a depth of 18 feet. A rock, with a depth of 18 feet over it, is 
situated 34°, distant 700 yards; and a shoal with 2G feet water 37° 
t mile, respectively, from Algernon rock. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, with a red roof, 32 feet high, 
built on a cribwork pier on Algernon rock, exhibits, at 36 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, 
a distance of 6 miles. 

Leading marks.—The highest part of Goose Island reef just open 
southward of Algernon Rock lighthouse, bearing 223°, leads south¬ 
ward of the shoals northeastward of Algernon rock; and the whole 
of Crane island well open southward of Goose Island reef, bearing 
227°, leads southward of Algernon rock and of the shoals between 
it and Goose Island reef. 

Goose Island reef, 2.3 miles southw^estward of Stone Pillar, con¬ 
sists of a ledge of rock, 1.7 miles in length, and trending southwest- 
ward vfith the river. Several small heads of the reef are above water 
at all times of tide; the highest part, a rugged conical mound, 29 feet 
high, is situated near the southwestern part of the reef. An isolated 
rock, which dries 2 feet at low water, lies nearly 4 mile 38° from the 
northeastern end of the reef; it is connected with the reef by shoal 
water, and a 3-fathom patch lies 400 yards southeastward of it. 
There are four other shoal spots between Stone Pillar and Goose 
Island reef, wdth depths of 11 to 16 feet over them. Several small 
detached rocks lie off the southeastern side of Goose Island reef, but 
they do not extend more than 200 yards from it; a rock with a depth 
of 8 feet is situated midway between the southwestern end of Goose 
Island reef and Goose island. 

A long spit, with depths of 9 to 17 feet over it, extends nearly 1| 
miles from the southwestern end of Goose Island reef. 

Leading mark.—Stone Pillar lighthouse, open southeastward of 
the highest part of Goose Island reef, bearing 36°, leads southeast- 


472 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


ward of this spit, and the deepest water in the channel is about 800 
yards southeastward of Goose Island reef and the spit. 

Goose island, the main part of which is 2.8 miles long northeast 
and southwest, with a greatest width of a little more than 4 mile, is 
composed of wooded, hilly ground, divided by a valley into northern 
and southern ranges; near its southwestern extreme are two round 
summits, 203 feet high. A chain of hillocks, that from a distance 
appear like islands, and on which are several conspicuous houses, with 
barns near, extends southwestward from the northern range. This 
range, which is 168 feet high, falls in cliffy banks, and at its north¬ 
eastern end is a large white barn, which is very conspicuous from the 
northward. A large red sugar-loaf beacon stands on a small de¬ 
tached islet close southward of the northeastern end of Goose island. 

Goose Island meadows (battures de l’ile aux Oies) extend 4^ miles 
southwestward from the southwestern end of Goose island and con¬ 
nect it with Crane island; the meadows are only just above high 
water ordinal springs, and are intersected by numerous streams that 
have cut deep channels in the mud, and are impassable from half 
flood to half ebb. 

These meadows yield a large quantity of coarse hay, which is di¬ 
vided among the inhabitants of Goose and Crane islands, who export 
the hay to Quebec and to the villages on the shores of the St. Law¬ 
rence. After the harvest the meadows are covered with haystacks, 
which are erected on framework to prevent the loss that would oth¬ 
erwise be occasioned by exceptionally high tides, and from a distance 
these stacks resemble small houses. 

Several rocks lie off the southeastern coast of Goose island, all of 
which cover at high water, except rocher aux Grelons, which is 4 
feet above high water and situated about 192°, \ mile from the high¬ 
est part of the island and on the outer edge of the reef that dries at 
low water, and Hospital rock, which is 10 feet high, and situated 4 
mile 241° from rocher aux Grelons. Chapel rock, 24 feet high, is on 
the meadows at 279°, 900 yards from Hospital rock, and is named 
from a church which formerly stood there, the foundations of which 
still exist. 

Beacon.—A white diamond-shaped beacon, about 30 feet high, 
stands on the southern coast of Goose Island meadows at a little more 
than 2 miles southwestward of Hospital rock. 

Vessels could be laid on shore in case of necessity, for instance, to 
winter safe from the ice, in that part of the bay between Goose 
and Crane islands which is included between distances of \ mile 
and 2 miles southwestward of Hospital rock, where the bottom is mud, 
dry at low water. There are but few places fit for this purpose in the 
St. Lawrence. 


DUNSCOMB ROCK-BEAUJEU BANK. 


473 


Dunscomb rock, 168°, 1,600 yards from Hospital rock, has 14 feet 
water over it, with 5 fathoms close-to. From the rock the summit of 
cape Tourmente is in line with the summit of Onion island, bearing 
263°, and the northwestern side of Wood Pillar is in line with the 
southeastern extreme of the rocks southeastward of Goose island. 

Shoal.—From Dunscomb rock the edge of the shoal water extend¬ 
ing off Goose Island meadows trends southwestward to about J mile 
off Macpherson point, the northeastern point of Crane island. 

Buoy.—-A red conical buoy, No. 68B, is moored on the edge of 
this shoal at 42°, If miles from Macpherson point. 

Crane island is about 3.3 miles long, northeast and southwest, 
f mile wide, and is generally flat in outline, its greatest height being 
132 feet, near its southwestern end. The lower parts of the land are 
cultivated, but the summit and southwestern slope are wooded. A 
house and the barns near it, at the northeastern extreme of the 
island, are conspicuous; there are numerous beacons on its south¬ 
eastern side; and on its northwestern side there is an almost con¬ 
tinuous line of houses, with St. Antoine church, built of brick and 
surmounted by a spire, in the middle of them. 

The population of the island is about 750; and the inhabitants, 
who all live on its northwestern side, are engaged chiefly in farming. 

Piers.—A pier on the southeastern side of Crane island is 639 feet 
long, with a depth of 4 feet water at its outer end at low water 
springs. 

In 1902 a pier was constructed on the northwestern side of the 
island; it is 730 feet long, with a depth of 14 feet at its end at high- 
water neaps. This pier is meant to facilitate the shipping of the farm 
produce from the island. 

Light.—An octagonal white lighthouse, with a red lantern, 48 feet 
high, at the end of the pier on the southeastern side of Crime island, 
about 1.2 miles eastward of point aux Pins, the southwestern point 
of Crane island, exhibits, at 48 feet above high water, an intermittent 
white light, every 15 seconds, showing thus—light, 10 seconds, eclipse 
5 seconds, that should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 
miles. 

Beaujeu bank, the northern end of w T hich lies 186°, 2.2 miles 
nearly from Hospital rock, is a narrow shoal of sand and gravel over 
slate, extending southwestward about 2 miles, with only 10 feet at low 
water over some parts of it. Its southwestern end approaches to 
within f mile of Crane island. 

Lightbuoys.—A cylindrical light and bell buoy, surmounted by 
a steel frame supporting a bell and lantern, No. 67B, painted red and 
black in horizontal stripes, and showing an intermittent white light, 


474 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


is moored off the northeastern extreme of Beaujeu bank, with L’Islet 
church bearing 68°, distant 4 miles. 

A similar buoy, No. 69B, painted red and black in horizontal 
stripes, and showing an intermittent white light, is moored with 
Crane Island lighthouse bearing 227°, distant 2 miles. 

Beacons.—On the coast of Crane island at about 600 yards south- 
westward of Macpherson point are two diamond-shaped beacons, 
which in line 286° lead to lightbuoy No. 69B, at the southwestern end 
of Beaujeu bank. 

Light.—A red steel tower surmounting a square stone beacon 
situated on the shoals at 146°, 600 yards from the southeastern of the 
beacons marking lightbuoy No. 69B, shows an unwatched intermit¬ 
tent white light, elevated 27 feet above high water, which should 
be seen from a distance of 10 miles. This light in line with Crane 
Island Pier light, bearing 223°, leads through Beaujeu channel from 
Goose Island reef to West Narrows passage. 

Shoals.—Southwestward of the diamond-shaped beacons Crane 
Island shoals extend 600 yards offshore. This distance decreases 
to 300 yards at Crane Island light. 

Buoy.—A red buoy, No. 70B, is moored in 24 feet on the south¬ 
eastern extreme of Crane Island south shoal at 244° nearly 400 yards 
from lightbuoy No. 69B, at the southwestern end of Beaujeu bank. 

Beaujeu channel, between Beaujeu bank and the shoals off 
Goose Island meadows, is about -J mile wide, and has depths of 6 to 9 
fathoms; but West Narrows passage, between the southwestern end 
of Beaujeu bank and the shoals off Crane island, is a bar only 300 
yards wide and 23 to 36 feet deep. 

Beacons—Prohibited anchorage.—On Macpherson point, the 
northeastern point of Crane island, are two white sugar-loaf beacons, 
bearing 284° and 104° from each other; and on the coast of the island 
about 1 mile farther southwestward are two white sugar-loaf beacons 
on a similar bearing. These pairs of beacons, each in line, mark a 
space within which anchorage is prohibited, as it is necessary that 
the lighthouse and buoys may be easily made out in order to cross the 
bar at the head of Beaujeu bank safely. 

Channel southeastward of Beaujeu bank.—The depth in this 
channel is irregular, varying from o fathoms to 17 feet, and there is 
one rocky patch of 17 feet that is difficult to avoid, so that, as the chan¬ 
nel is not buoyed, only that depth could be depended on to be car¬ 
ried through at low water springs, although perhaps with local 
knowledge a least depth of 3J fathoms might be obtained. The chan¬ 
nel is J to f mile wide. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 75B, is moored northward of a 16- 
foot shoal on the southern side of the channel, with Crane Island 


ST. THOMAS BANK. 


475 


lighthouse bearing 356°, distant nearly f mile. Two sugarloaf-shaped 
beacons situated at the southwestern end of Crane island are cross 
marks for this buoy. 

Submarine cable.—Just eastward of this buoy a submarine cable 
passes from the western side of Crane Island wharf to a point on the 
southern shore of the river, halfway between the village of St. 
Thomas de Montmagny and Methot’s wharf. 

A large sign warning vessels not to anchor in the vicinity is placed 
on Crane Island wharf. 

St. Thomas bank extends rather more than 2 miles northward 
and also westward offshore at the village of St. Thomas; it is com¬ 
posed of sand, mud, and stones, and dries at low water nearly to its 
northern edge, which is very steep. Bowlders are visible at low 
water beyond the northeastern extreme of that part of the bank 
which dries. 

Lightbuoy.—A black spherical lightbuoy, No. 77B, which shows 
an intermittent white light, thus, light 8 seconds, eclipse 7 seconds, 
is moored on the northern extreme of the bank, in 5 fathoms, with 
Haystack island in line with the western extreme of Crane island, 
and the red sugar-loaf beacon in line with the white diamond beacon 
on the southern side of Crane island. 

Clearing marks.—The southeastern end of Bellechasse island 
and St. Vallier point in line leads northward of St. Thomas bank; 
therefore the whole of the island should not be opened northward of 
the point, but this mark can seldom be seen. The apparent northern 
extreme of the range of hills on the southern shore just open south¬ 
ward of Crane Island lighthouse, bearing 51°, leads northward of St. 
Thomas bank in the deepest water. 

Tides and tidal streams.—The rise and fall of the tide at St. 
Roch des Aulnaies, for every hour after low and high water, is given 
in the following table, and from it the depth of water at any time, 
over any shallow part of the river in this vicinity, may be easily 
deduced. 

Height of the tide every hour after low and high water ordinary 
spring tides: 


* Place. 

After low 
water. 

Flood tide. 

After high 
water. 

Ebb tide. 


h. 

to. 

Ft. in. 

h. 

TO. 

Ft. in. 

At St Roch des Aulnaies. 

0 

0 

0 0 

0 

0 

17 0 


1 

0 

2 6 

1 

0 

14 9 


2 

0 

5 3 

2 

0 

11 9 


3 

0 

9 6 

3 

0 

8 6 


4 

0 

13 6 

4 

0 

5 6 


5 

0 

16 3 

5 

0 

3 0 


5 

35 

17 0 

6 

0 

1 6 





6 

50 

0 0 












476 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


At neap tides, the rise and fall not being so great as at ordinary 
springs, the proportionate part of the rise and fall for every hour 
is also less, and an allowance must be made accordingly. 

In the Lower Traverse the flood stream begins 6h. Om. after high 
water at Quebec, and it runs 5h. 45m.; the ebb stream begins Oh. 45m. 
before high water at Quebec, and it runs 6h. 45m. 

In the Upper Traverse the flood stream begins 6h. Om. after high 
water at Quebec, and it runs 5h. 25m.; the ebb stream begins lh. Om. 
before high water at Quebec, and it runs 7h. Om. 

The times of these changes, however, vary considerably. 

The flood stream begins much earlier in North channel than in 
South, and the first of the stream therefore comes from the north¬ 
ward, setting southward upon Ste. Anne and St. Roch shoals, but 
inclining gradually more to the westward, until at a quarter-flood it 
sets south-south westward fairly through South Traverse. After 
half flood it sets southwestward and toward the end of the tide 
still more to the westward; perhaps this is because, the time of high 
water being somewhat earlier in North channel, the water has begun 
to fall there before the flood has quite ceased in South channel. 

The ebb stream sets nearly in the contrary direction to the flood, 
the first of the ebb setting off from Ste. Anne and St. Roch shoals 
through the channels westward of Middle ground, and northward 
over the tail of that shoal. 

Above the Pillars both streams set fairly up and down the river. 

It is high water, full and change, at l’lslet at 5h. 11m.; springs 
rise 18 feet, neaps 13 feet. The flood stream in the offing begins at 
Oh. 30m. after low water on the shore, or 6h. Om. after high water at 
Quebec, and it runs 5h. 30m.; the ebb stream begins at Oh. 30m. after 
high water on the shore, or Oh. 57m. before high water at Quebec, and 
it runs 6h. 50m. 

It is high water, full and change, at West narrows, Beaujeu channel, 
at 5h. 24m.; springs rise 18J feet, neaps 13 feet; neaps range 11 feet. 

Rates.—In South Traverse, below about a mile above Upper Trav¬ 
erse lighthouse, the rate of the ebb is 7 to 8 knots, and that of the flood 
6 to 7-| knots. The rates of the flood and ebb streams decrease gradu¬ 
ally westward until about 1^ miles below Channel patch, where the 
ebb stream attains a rate of 4J knots at springs; the rate of this stream 
increases to 5J knots southward of the Pillars, and decreases to 3 knots 
at Crane island, while the flood stream runs about 1 knot an hour less 
at the respective localities. 

Caution.—Attention must be given to the rate and height of the 
tides between Green island and Quebec. Vessels of heavy draft must 
of course be taken over the shoal spots at the proper stage of the tide. 


DIRECTIONS. 


477 


Directions for South Traverse.—In bad and thick weather great 
consideration is necessary as to running through South Traverse, 
especially at night, and in ships of much draft. It is generally desir¬ 
able for steamers coming up the river to pass South Traverse with 
the flood, for the ebb is so rapid between the buoys that, except in a 
vessel with great speed, little progress will be made against it. 

In approaching South Traverse from the eastward, when nearing 
Middle Ground lightbuoy, haul to the southward, leaving the buoy 
2 mile to the westward, and keep cape Diable well open of Orignaux 
Point lighthouse, bearing 56°, until Lower Traverse lighthouse is in 
line with Upper Traverse lighthouse, bearing 205°, or Upper Traverse 
lighthouse is in line with Stone Pillar lighthouse, bearing 205°, and 
enter the Traverse w r ith either of these marks on. The first of the 
flood stream sets southward toward St. Roch shoals, and the ebb in 
the contrary direction. 

When about 1^ miles below Lower Traverse lighthouse steer so as 
to leave South Traverse Middle Ground lightbuoy on the starboard 
hand, and pass 300 yards westward of Lower Traverse lighthouse, 
about 400 yards westward of Upper Traverse lighthouse, and about 
400 yards eastward of Upper Traverse lightbuoy. Thence steer about 
199° to leave Channel Patch lightbuoy 400 yards on the starboard 
hand and the two black buoys on the western edge of St. Roch shoals 
on the port hand. The courses alone must not be trusted, for the set 
of the streams can not be determined exactly; but the lead, buoys, 
and lighthouses are the only sure guide; therefore courses are not 
given. 

Do not close the shoals on the western side of the channel which 
extend southward and southwestward from Upper Traverse through 
South Traverse. From eastward of Channel Patch lightbuoy steer to 
pass 400 yards westward of St. Jean Port Joli black lightbuoy, and 
then a similar distance eastward of Algernon rock. After passing 
Algernon rock keep Crane Island well open southward of Goose 
Island reef, bearing 226°, to clear the shoals between them, and open 
that mark gradually so as to pass 800 yards southeastward of Goose 
Island reef. 

Beaujeu channel.—When Hospital rock bears 308°, gradually 
bring Stone Pillar lighthouse‘ just open southward of the southern 
extreme of the highest part of Goose Island reef, bearing 37°, and 
keep that range on astern, passing 600 yards northwestward of the 
lightbuoy off the northeastern end of Beaujeu bank, through the 
fairway of Beaujeu channel, and direct to the lightbuoy on the 
southwestern end of Beaujeu bank. In passing leave the red buoy 
off Goose Island meadows 500 yards to the northwestward. It may 
be more convenient to use the range of Beaujeu Channel light and 


478 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Crane Island Pier light. In this case pick up that range as soon as 
possible after passing Algernon rock, and keep it on 223° until the 
lightbuoy at the southwestern end of Beaujeu bank is about £ mile 
ahead. In either case leave the lightbuoy 100 yards on the port 
hand, and pass between that buoy and the red buoy to the south- 
westward, with the beacon on Goose Island meadows in line with 
the middle of la Grosse montagne (the western hill of Goose island), 
bearing 8°. When Channel rock, situated 350 yards northeastward 
of Macpherson point and which dries 9 feet at low water, is visible, 
the beacon should be its own height open eastward of this rock when 
the above range is on. Keep the range on until the southwestern 
prohibited anchorage beacons are in line, or Crane Island lighthouse 
bears 236°, then steer to pass £ mile southeastward of that lighthouse. 
(For continuation, see p. 491.) 

To pass southeastward of Beaujeu bank, where the depth is 
not more than 17 feet at low water, when 1£ miles southwestward of 
Goose Island reef, bring Stone Pillar its own breadth open south¬ 
eastward of Goose Island reef, bearing 32°, and keep this range on 
astern, steering 400 yards southeastward of the northeastern light¬ 
buoy of Beaujeu bank. From southeastward of this buoy continue 
212°, until St. Vallier point is open southward of Crane Island light¬ 
house, bearing 232°, when steer for St. Vallier point; this course 
leads about 800 yards southward of the southwestern lightbuoy of 
Beaujeu bank. Having reached this position, keep away to the 
southward and run along the southeastern coast of Crane island at 
about 600 yards distance, passing \ mile southeastward of Crane 
Island lighthouse, and the same distance northwestward of the black 
buoy on the patch lying nearly f mile from Crane Island lighthouse. 

Caution.—The South Traverse should not be attempted at night, 
except with a pilot. 

Anchorages in South Traverse.—There is anchorage off Ste. 
Anne shoals in 6 fathoms at low water up to within 1£ miles from 
Lower Traverse lighthouse, where the ground is better, and the tidal 
stream is less than on the tail of Middle ground; but the latter is the 
better position for a sailing vessel for weighing with the first of the 
flood in northerly winds. Anchorage has been obtained for one tide, 
in fine weather, on the edge of St. ftoch shoals, between Traverse 
lighthouses; but this position is not recommended, for the ebb stream 
runs there at the rate of 8 knots, and the ground is not to be depended 
on; hence, if the anchor once started it would be difficult to bring 
the ship up again, and there w T ould be great danger of losing the 
anchor. In a sailing vessel, should the wind fail, or the flood be 
done, if an anchorage about 2 miles above Upper Traverse lighthouse 
can not be gained, it is advisable to run down below Lower Traverse 
lighthouse. 


SOUTH CHANNEL ABOVE CRANE ISLAND. 


479 


Anchorage off St. Roch shoals is indifferent until above St. Jean 
Port Joli church, but along the edge of the bank off the southern 
shore, from southeastward of the Pillars to Crane island, the holding 
ground is a stiff clay, and so good that it is sometimes difficult to 
weigh an anchor. There is excellent anchorage in westerly winds 
off Crane island at 1 mile above Beaujeu bank in 6 fathoms at low 
water, and there is equally good anchorage with easterly winds under 
the western end of the island in 5 fathoms. Outward-bound sailing 
vessels meeting a strong easterly wind anywhere above Upper Tra¬ 
verse lighthouse should run back to this anchorage. 

South channel, above Crane island—South shore, from St. 

Thomas point to point Levis. 

St. Thomas point, 3 miles west of the entrance of the riviere du 
Sud, is low. (See p. 468.) 

Wye rock, about 3 miles northward of St. Thomas point, is about 
400 yards long, northeast and southwest, and 100 yards broad, with 
a depth of 1 foot over it at low water. It is separated from St. 
Thomas bank by a channel nearly mile wide, but with depths 
greater than 3 fathoms, only 200 yards wide. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 79B, is moored in fathoms, north¬ 
westward of Wye rock, with St. Thomas point bearing 166°, distant 
a little more than f mile. 

Leading marks.—The apparent northern extreme of the range of 
hills on the southern shore just open southward of Crane Island 
lighthouse 51°, leads in the deepest water in South channel, north¬ 
ward of Wye rock; the chapel near the summit of cape Tourmente, 
on the northern shore of the river, in line with the flagstaff on Grosse 
isle, bearing 321°, leads northeastward of Wye rock in 15 feet water: 
and the same chapel, in line with the western pier on Grosse isle, 
bearing 325°, leads westward of that rock. The Seminaire, on the 
northern shore of the river at about 2} miles southwestward of cape 
Tourmente, is rarely visible from South channel, except when the 
sun is shining on it. 

The south shore from St. Thomas point trends southwestward for 
4r| miles; it then turns northwestward for J mile to Berthier East 
point. From this point it continues southwestward 1J miles to point 
Rouge. 

Trou de Berthier is 4 mile westward of Berthier East point. Ber¬ 
thier village, which has 1,364 inhabitants, is situated about 4 mile 
southward of the trou, and its church has a single spire. There is 
a pier at point Yerte, the eastern entrance point of the trou, with a 
depth of 14 feet close to its outer end at low water. 


480 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, 


There is a large traffic in farm produce here, and a coasting steamer 
plies daily during the season between Berthier and Quebec. 

Rocks.—Two rocks 300 yards apart, and with depths of 1 foot and 
6 feet over them, lie 800 yards offshore between Berthier East point 
and Berthier pier. These rocks are heads of a narrow ledge with 
depths of 9 to 17 feet over it, running parallel to the shore, and with 
its northeastern extreme bearing 339° 800 yards from Berthier East 
point. Bellechasse light, bearing southward of 235°, leads north¬ 
ward of the above shoal water. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Berthier at 5h. 40m.; springs rise 174 feet, neaps 14 feet. The flood 
stream in the offing begins at lh. 10m. after low water on the shore, 
or 4h. 40m. before high water at Quebec, and it runs for 5h. 5m. 
The ebb stream begins at lh. 5m. after high water on the shore, or 
Oh. 25m. after high water at Quebec, and it runs for 7h. 20m. 

Bellechasse island, the eastern end of which bears 315°, distant 
nearly f mile from point Rouge, comprises three principal and sev¬ 
eral small rocks joined together at low water; it is 600 yards long, 
northeast and southwest, and narrow. There are not more than 3 
fathoms water in the channel between it and the main. 

Light.—A square, white lighthouse, 40 feet high, with a red roof 
and a dwelling attached, on the eastern summit of Bellechasse island, 
exhibits, at 54 feet above high water, an intermittent white light every 
17 seconds—showing thus: Light, 10 seconds; eclipse, 7 seconds—that 
should be seen in clear weather a distance of 12 miles. 

Pointed rock, 250 yards northeastward of the middle of the island, 
has 6 feet water over it. A rock that dries 2 feet at low water lies 
200 yards southwestward, and a shoal with 12 feet over it lies west¬ 
ward 400 yards from the southwestern end of Bellechasse island. 

Anse de Berthier, lying between point Rouge and St. Vallier 
point, 270°, 1.7 miles, is about 1 mile from entrance to head, but it is 
nearly all dry at low water. 

St. Vallier point is the end of a wooded bluff 128 feet high, and it 
is the first prominent point on the southern shore westward of the 
Traverses. 

Shoal.—A shoal with 15 feet water over it lies 16°, -J mile from St. 
Vallier point. 

The shore from St. Vallier point trends southwestward 2.6 miles; 
it then turns westward, with two projecting points, for 2 miles to 
point St. Michel. 

St. Vallier village and church stand on the shore at about 2 miles 
southwestward of St. Vallier point. There is a beacon on the shore 


ST. VALUER BANK—BEAUMONT REEFS. 481 

northward of the church, and in line with the latter leads to the 
buoy off Madame reef. 

St. Vallier bank fills the whole bay between St. Yallier and St. 
Michel points, and extends nearly { mile north-northeastward of 
St. Michel point. 

A rock, with 12 feet water on it, lies nearly 1J miles westward 
from St. Vallier point. 

Leading* marks.—The end of the pier at point Verte shut in with 
the southwestern end of Bellechasse island, bearing about 74°, leads 
northward, and Beaumont church, open northward of point Durant¬ 
aye, bearing about 232°, leads northwestward of these shoals. 

St. Michel point is low. Beefs of slate extend eastward of it, with 
shoal water in continuation, but there is deep water at | mile north¬ 
ward of the reefs. 

St. Michel village is about 1-J miles southwestward of the point, 
and has a church with a spire. The chapel of Notre Dame de 
Lourdes, on a wooded bluff close westward of the village, has a fine 
spire. The site of the village is picturesque, and it is somewhat 
frequented as a summer resort. A pier, 1,100 feet long, which is 
almost dry at low water, extends from the shore near the village; 
several rocks lie off the end of the pier, but a channel appears to 
have been dredged to it. A coasting steamer calls here twice daily 
for the traffic in farm produce from the surrounding country. 

The shore from St. Michel village trends about westward nearly 
1 mile to point Durantaye, and thence approximately southwest- 
ward 4J miles to Beaumont church, which has a spire, and stands on 
a cliff. A waterfall runs over the cliff at 1 mile westward of the 
church and close to a ruined mill at the base. Westward of this 
mill the w T ater is deep close to the low water line, which, however, 
is 400 yards from the high water mark. 

Beaumont reefs lie off Beaumont village and comprise a line of 
bowlders, the eastern end of which dries 4 feet at low water, and 
numerous bowlders extending, at Beaumont, 800 yards from the 
shore, but gradually closing point Durantaye. 

Lightbuoy.—A black can lightbuoy, with an open conical top- 
mark, No. 87B, is moored in 18 feet water close northward of the 
eastern part of the reef, about f mile from the southern shore, and 
168° nearly J mile from St. Laurent lighthouse. It exhibits, at 9 
feet above the water, an intermittent white light. 

Leading mark.—St. Joseph de Lauzon church well open of Mar- 
tiniere point, bearing 258°, leads northward of Beaumont reefs. 


50918—08-31 


482 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Martiniere point, westward 4.3 miles from Beaumont, is the 
base of a small wooded hillock. A diamond-shaped beacon stands 
close to the point. 

The shore from point Martiniere trends westward for 2J miles 
and then southwestward 1 mile to point Levis. 

Lauzon village, which has 3,416 inhabitants, is situated about a 
mile below point Levis. St. Joseph church, in the village, is a con¬ 
spicuous building with a spire, and close to it are a large college and 
convent, each surmounted by a statue. 

Bienville village, within point Levis, contained 851 inhabitants in 
1901. 

Point Levis shoal is formed by irregular soundings within the 
10-fathom line, which from 400 yards off Martiniere point trends 
westward for If miles, when it turns toward point Levis. In a north¬ 
easterly direction from St. Joseph church there is a depth of 24 feet 
at \ mile offshore, and westward of this position shoal water con¬ 
tinues, gradually closing point Levis. Westward of the shoal, point 
Levis is steep-to. 

Lightbuoy.—A black cylindrical lightbuoy, No. 89B, is moored 
on the edge of Point Levis shoal, with the flagstaff at Levis Dock 
Landing stage bearing 104° distant 275 yards. The buoy exhibits an 
intermittent white light. 

Leading marks.—A small fall in the land, 1 mile westward of 
Durantaye point in line with the southern extreme of Orleans island, 
bearing 80°, leads northward; and the spire of St. John church at 
Quebec, in line with the southwestern end of the Immigration offices 
on Commissioners’ wharf, bearing 236°, also leads northward of this 
shoal. (See also p. 489.) 

South Channel, above Crane Island—Islands and Shoals Form¬ 
ing its Northern Side. 

The islands in order westward and southwestward of Crane island 
(lie aux Grues) are Haystack (ile Ronde), Mill (lie aux Chevaux), 
Race (ile Longue), Margaret, Cliff (ile a Sottise) islands, and Grosse 
isle. The highest of all these is Grosse isle, which rises 214 feet above 
high water. 

Between these islands there are narrow and intricate passes, lead¬ 
ing into Middle Traverse, with water enough for vessels of heavy 
draft, but they are little used for navigation and the chart is the 
guide to them. 

Southwestward of Grosse isle are Reaux and Madame islands, com¬ 
posed of slate rock, low, wooded, and connected together by reefs of 
slate nearly dry at low water. All of the above-named islands and the 


CRANE ISLAND SPIT-GROSSE ISLE ROCK. 


483 


reefs of slate rock, thinly covered with sand and mud, which extend 
from almost all of them, bound South channel on its northern side 
for nearly 13 miles southwestward of Crane island. 

Crane Island spit, with less depths than 18 feet, extends south- 
westward If miles from point Aux Pins; the shallowest part of the 
shoal, with 5 feet water over it, lies about f mile from the point. 

Buoy.—The southwestern end of this spit is marked by a conical 
red buoy, No. 78B, moored with two beacons on the southern coast of 
Crane island in line. 

Beacons.—The eastern of these beacons, painted red, is situated 
250 yards westward of Crane Island wharf; and the western, painted 
white, 200 yards farther westward. These beacons in line, bearing 
64°, lead, in not less than 24 feet water, southward of and very 
close to Crane Island spit, but, with that depth, only as far westward 
as the red buoy. 

Leading mark.—The southeastern extreme of Crow island in line 
with the western extreme of Middle island, bearing 19°. leads north¬ 
westward of Crane Island spit and buoy, in about 19 feet water. 

Bank.—A narrow bank, having several shoals with 20 to 23 feet 
water on them, extends southwestward from Crane Island spit and 
connects it to the bank extending southwestward from Margaret tail. 

Margaret tail, extending southwestward If miles from Margaret 
and Cliff islands, which are nearly joined at low water, is slate, some 
parts of it being awash at low tides. 

Lightbuoy.—A red lightbuoy, No. SOB, showing an intermittent 
white light, is moored in 4f fathoms at the southwestern extreme of 
Margaret tail, and with St. Thomas point bearing 151°, distant nearly 
1£ miles. This buoy is also a quarantine buoy, and has “ Quar¬ 
antine ” in yellow letters on the body of the buoy. 

Leading mark.—St. Antoine church on Crane island in line with 
the southern end of Haystack island, bearing 51°, leads southward of 
Margaret tail and the buoy, but in a least depth of only 22 feet. 

Grosse Isle patch is a rocky shoal, 1,200 yards long, northeast and 
southwest, 300 yards wide, and with 7 feet least water, lying west¬ 
ward of Margaret tail; and the channel between them is f mile wide, 
with a depth of 5f fathoms in the fairway. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 81B, is moored in 4 fathoms water 
at the northeastern end of the patch. 

Grosse Isle rock—Buoy.—This rock, with 7 feet water over it, 
lies nearly 400 yards off the southern side of Grosse isle and f mile 
from the western pier; a red conical buoy, No. 82B, is moored on the 
rock. 


484 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


A rock with 15 feet water over it lies westward of Grosse Isle 
patch, and with the outer end of Grosse Isle western pier bearing 
15°, distant 1,200 yards. 

Grosse isle may be easily recognized from the number of build¬ 
ings on it forming the quarantine establishment. There are two 
piers on the southern coast, one 600 yards from the western end, which 
has a depth of 15 feet at low water alongside it; the other, near the 
middle of the island, having 11 feet at its outer end. The hospital, 
a conspicuous brick building, is l mile from the eastern end, and the 
superintendent’s house is immediately behind the flagstaff. The 
churches visible from South channel are the Episcopal church, a 
brown building with a low tower, on an eminence immediately north¬ 
eastward of the western pier; and the Roman Catholic church, with 
a small spire, situated near the middle of the southern coast, and 
visible only from the eastward and westward, being obscured from 
the southward by a rocky mound in front of it. 

Directions and leading marks.—Proceeding to the quarantine 
station, bring the northwestern end of Two Heads island in line 
with the western end of Cliff island, bearing 21°, and steer on the 
range northwestward of Margaret tail, and between it and Grosse 
Isle patch until Grosse Isle Patch buoy bears about 341°. when round 
the buoy into the anchorage; or if proceeding to Quarantine pass, 
steer northward after passing Grosse Isle Patch buoy until Crow 
island is open northward of the rocks of le rocher Rouge, and then 
steer on that range into Quarantine pass, northwestward of the shoal 
off Cliff island. 

The Episcopal church at Grosse isle in line with the inner end of 
the western pier, bearing 359°, leads in 3| fathoms between the 15- 
foot rock, westward of Grosse Isle patch, and that patch; and the 
summit of Margaret island in line with the northern end of Cliff 
island, bearing 52°, leads northward of Grosse Isle patch to the quar¬ 
antine anchorage. A good cross mark for that anchorage is the 
Episcopal church just open eastward of the western pier. The north¬ 
ern end of Race island, a little open southward of Margaret island, 
bearing 51°, leads in 23 feet southward of Grosse Isle patch. 

Quarantine anchorages.—All merchant vessels are obliged to 
communicate with the quarantine authorities at Rimouski, and if not 
there at Grosse isle, whence they are allowed to proceed if granted 
pratique. These vessels, if necessary, anchor in 5 fathoms outside 
Grosse Isle patch and westward of Margaret tail, and this is one of 
the best anchorages in the river for riding out an easterly gale. Ves¬ 
sels in quarantine generally lie between Grosse Isle patch and Grosse 
isle, to be near the establishment, but the anchorage farther eastward 
in Quarantine pass, northward of Margaret island, is far preferable. 


GROSSE ISLE TAIL-MADAME REEF. 485 

Anchorage.—The inner anchorage at Grosse isle is useful only as 
a place for vessels to ride quarantine; but the anchorage outside 
Grosse Isle patch is a convenient place for which sailing vessels, on 
the approach of a strong easterly wind, may bear up, when there is 
not tidal stream enough for them to reach the anchorage under Crane 
island, 4 miles farther eastward. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
Grosse isle at 5h. 21m.; springs rise 19 feet, neaps 13 feet. The 
flood stream begins at lh. Om. after low water on the shore, or 5h. 
Om. before high water at Quebec, and it runs for 5h. 10m. The ebb 
stream begins at lh, 5m. after high water on the shore, or Oh. 10m. 
after high water at Quebec, and it runs for 7h. 10m. The tides rise 
and fall nearly as at Quebec, except that the rise after low water is 
not quite so rapid. 

Grosse Isle tail extends soutliwestward from Grosse isle and is 
joined by a bar, with 15 feet over it at low water, to the banks of 
Madame island. Two shoals with 11 feet water on them lie on this 
bar about midway between Grosse Isle tail and the banks of Madame 
island. 

Leading mark.—The western fall of the hill over cape Tourmente 
in line with the small rock near the eastern end of Reaux island, 
bearing 333°, leads over the bar in about 15 feet water. 

Banks of Madame island, in their eastern part, extend 1.7 
miles southward of Reaux island, and thence southwestward to 
where they join Madame reef. 

Leading mark.—Race island open southward of Margaret island 
leads southward of these banks, and also southward of Grosse Isle 
tail and Grosse Isle patch. 

Madame reef, the southwestern end of a slioal extending south- 
westward 2J miles from the southwestern end of Madame island, 
and really a continuation of the banks of Madame island, is about 
1,200 yards long northeast and southwest, 300 yards wide, and dries 
7| feet at low water. 

Lightbuoy.—A red lightbuoy, No. 86B, showing an intermittent 
white light, is moored in 4f fathoms at the southwestern end of 
Madame reef, with Bellechasse lighthouse bearing about 91°, distant 
3.1 miles. 

Leading marks.—Berthier church open southward of Bellechasse 
island, bearing 92°, leads southward, and cape Tourmente chapel in 
line with the eastern end of Orleans island, bearing 22°, leads north¬ 
westward of this reef. 

Water.—It is said that good water can be obtained on the northern 
side of Madame reef, as the principal impurities of the river have 
subsided before the stream reaches that locality. 


486 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Orleans island, the northeastern end of which lies 4.6 miles north¬ 
westward of Grosse isle, extends about 236°, 18 miles, with an average 
width of 3J miles, and it divides the river St. Lawrence into two 
channels. The island is usually well cultivated on the slopes and in 
the valleys between the hills; the summits are generally wooded and 
attain a height of 550 feet at about 3 miles from its southwestern 
end. Near its northeastern end the island rises gradually from a 
hillock 210 feet high to about 500 feet in the summit over Ste. Famille, 
and it is wooded down to the river. 

The southern coast is generally composed of a small cliff which 
increases in height toward the southwestern end of the island and 
at the mouths of the rivers. On the northern coast the cliff is at 
some distance back from the St. Lawrence, the intermediate space 
being flat and cultivated. The south coast is bordered by bare flat 
rock that extends generally about 200 yards from the high water 
mark, while the north coast is fringed by a mud flat on which a 
coarse grass grows, and which is indented by numerous creeks. 
These are impassable at about half tide, and are used by bateaux for 
loading and discharging cargoes. 

St. Frangois parish, at the lower (northeastern) end of the island, 
extends across the island and about halfway to St. Jean. The 
church, at 210°, 1J miles from point Argentenaye, the northeastern 
end of the island, stands on the slope of a hill, and has a spire. 
There is a wharf on the northern side of the parish, but it is acces¬ 
sible only at high tide, and no regular coasting vessel frequents the 
north channel. A wharf, with a depth of 12 feet at its end at low 
water springs, has been constructed on the southern side at about 
i mile above the church of St. Frangois, and a daily line of market 
steamers runs between this and Quebec. • 

Lights.—There are two lighthouses at St. Frangois; the north¬ 
eastern or front lighthouse, a square white building with a red roof, 
28 feet high, situated on the shore at 75°, 525 yards from St. Frangois 
church, exhibits, at 30 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 10 miles. 

The southwestern or rear lighthouse, a square white building with a 
red roof, 30 feet high, situated in a field at 222°, 1,410 yards from the 
front lighthouse, exhibits, at 77 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 14 miles. 

Tho alignment of these lighthouses leads partly through North 
channel Traverse. 

River Bellefine flows into the St. Lawrence at 2.3 miles south- 
westward of St. Frangois, through a small pool that affords good 
shelter to boats and small craft; boats can enter about an hour before 
or after low water, and small craft can enter according to their draft. 


ST. JEAN—ST. PATRICK HOLE. 487 

There is good anchorage off river Bellefine in 5J to 6 fathoms, 
mud bottom. 

St. Jean, 3^ miles south-southwestward of river Bellefine, is a long 
straggling village containing a church, with a spire, which stands 
close to the water’s edge. 

A pier, with 9 feet water at its outer end, extends from this village 
at 600 yards southwestward of the church. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse with a red roof, 30 feet high, 
at the outer end of St. Jean pier, exhibits at 30 feet above high water 
a fixed white light that should be seen, in clear weather, a distance 
of 10 miles. 

Rivers.—River la Fleur flows into the St. Lawrence at 1^ miles, 
and river Maheux at 2j miles, respectively, southwestward of St. Jean 
pier. 

These rivers run through deep ravines and generally afford shelter 
to small craft which lie aground at low water within their entrances. 

Anchorage is good off these rivers; but parallel to the shore, and 
generally 600 yards distant from the low water line, is a rocky ledge 
with depths of 5J to 7 fathoms over it. Vessels should anchor be¬ 
tween this ledge and the coast of Orleans island. 

St. Laurent village is 6 miles southwestward of St. Jean, though 
the houses are nearty continuous from one to the other. At St. 
Laurent there is a church, with a spire, close to the shore, and a con¬ 
vent just eastward of the church. 

A pier, with 13 feet water at its outer end, extends from the island 
near the church. The freight shed, a rectanuglar drab building with 
a red roof, stands over the slip in the middle of the end of the pier. 

Light. —An octagonal metal lantern, painted white with a green 
roof, on the roof of the freight shed on St. Laurent pier, at 55 feet 
from its outer end and 38 feet above the deck of the pier, exhibits, at 
33 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in 
cle^r weather, a distance of 11 miles. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, at 
St. Laurent at 6h. 20m.; springs rise 17J feet, neaps 14J feet. 

The flood stream in the offing begins at Oh. 55m. after low water on 
the shore, or 4h. 6m. before high water at Quebec, and it runs for 
5h. 0m. 

The ebb stream begins at lh. 10m. after high water on the shore, or 
Oh. 54m. after high water at Quebec, and it runs for 7h. 25m. 

St. Patrick hole, H miles westward of St. Laurent, is off the 
mouth of St. Patrick river, a small stream ending in a ravine which 
is faced by cliffs on both sides. 

There is good anchorage here in 8 to 9 fathoms. 


488 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Marand rocks consist of several rocky patches that completely fill 
the western cove on the southern coast of Orleans island; this cove 
extends about 1^ miles eastward of St. Petronille lighthouse. 

Buoy.—A red spar buoy, No. 88B, is moored in 3J fathoms off the 
southern side of Marand rocks, with St. Petronille lighthouse bear¬ 
ing 279°, distant nearly f mile. 

Leading marks.—The chimney of the lunatic asylum at Beau- 
port, well open southward of the pier at the southwestern point of 
Orleans island, bearing 274°, or St. Laurent lighthouse open south¬ 
ward of the southern end of Orleans island, bearing 78°, leads south¬ 
ward of these rocks. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse having sloping sides and a 
square lantern with a red roof, 34 feet high, on point de l’anse du 
Fort, St. Petronille, at the western end of Orleans island, exhibits, at 
33 feet above high water, an intermittent white light every 8 seconds, 
thus: Light 5 seconds, eclipsed 3 seconds, which should be seen in 
clear weather a distance of 3 miles. 

The southwestern point (named West point) of Orleans island 
is marked by a large hotel, and a pier, between which and Quebec a 
steam ferry plies regularly. 

St. Petronille church, which has a spire, dominates the point, and 
an Episcopal church with a small spire stands between it and the 
hotel. 

Anchorage.—There is anchorage almost anywhere clear of the 
shoals between Crane island and Quebec; but the best holding ground 
is generally on the northern side of the channel. A good position 
with strong westerly winds is under point St. Jean; many vessels 
await a favorable wind, southward of the western point of Orleans 
island. 

With a strong westerly wind and the ebb stream good anchors 
and cables are necessary. 

Quebec harbor comprises the St. Lawrence river and its navigable 
tribuaries between St. Patrick hole and Carouge point (cape 
Rouge), both inclusive, at about 8 miles above the city. It affords 
excellent anchorage over its greater part, the water between the 
banks off each shore being free from dangers and deep. 

The management of the harbor is vested in the Harbor Commission. 

Beauport, a large village about 24 miles northeastward of Quebec, 
to which it is nearly joined by houses, has a large church with two 
steeples. Almost midway between Beauport church and Quebec is 
the lunatic asylum, a large collection of buildings, with a flagstaff 
rising from the middle of a mansard roof, and a large black chimney. 
The falls of Montmorency are situated about 2J miles northeastward 
of Beauport. 


QUEBEC HARBOR. 


489 


Beauport bank, fronting the village of Beauport and extending 
to Princess Louise embankment, Quebec, is a flat of slate covered with 
mud that extends in some parts nearly f mile from the shore, and is 
fringed by shoal water for a further distance of ^ mile to the depth 
of 8 fathoms. St. Charles river flows by several channels over the 
southwestern part of this bank into the St. Lawrence. 

Buoys.—A red conical buoy with a flag, No. 138B, is moored in 
about 4J fathoms water on the southeastern side of Beauport bank, 
with the eastern corner of Princess Louise embankment bearing 214°, 
distant 2.2 miles. A conical red buoy, No. 140B, is moored in 6 fath¬ 
oms water off the mouth of St. Charles river, with the northeastern 
corner of Princess Louise embankment bearing 206°, distant TOO 
yards. 

Clearing marks.—A marine tower, 113 feet high, covered with 
galvanized iron, in connection with a large elevator on the cross wall 
near the southern side of Princess Louise basin, in line with the 
lighthouse at the northeastern angle of Princess Louise embankment, 
or the lights exhibited from them in line, bearing 230°, leads between 
Beauport bank and Point Levis shoal to Commissioners’ wharf. 
L’Ange Gardien (on the northwestern shore of the St. Lawrence) 
lighthouses in line, bearing 26°, lead between Beauport bank and the 
shoals off Orleans island; St. John Church spire in line with the 
northern end of the northern Immigration offices at Princess Louise 
basin, bearing 228°, leads southward of the bank westward to St. 
Charles River buoy; and the southeastern end of Parliament house 
at Quebec in line with the northern end of the Immigration offices on 
Commissioners’ wharf, bearing 219°, leads southeastward of the bank 
when westward of the line of Beauport church bearing 220°. 

Fly or La Mouche bank lies off the northwestern side of the 
harbor between Diamond harbor and point Pizeau; a portion of the 
northeastern part of the bank dries at low water, and the bowlders on 
its southwestern part also dry. 

The narrow channel westward of Diamond harbor, between the 
bank and the northwestern shore of Quebec harbor, is 20 to 12 feet 
deep, the deepest water being generally at the booms which are laid 
between the blocks for vessels to load. 

Red spar buoys mark the northwestern side of La Mouche bank 
and are laid generally in a depth of 9 feet at low water. 

Lightbuoy.—A red cylindrical gas buoy showing an intermittent 
white light is moored on the northeastern edge of La Mouche bank 
on the following bearings: St. Columba Sillery church 123°, Quebec 
jail 328°. The buoy is numbered 10 Q. 

Clearing mark.—Pointe au Pavilion, Orleans island, in line with 
point Levis, bearing 39°, leads southeastward of La Mouche bank. 


490 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Southeastern shore—Shoal.—Southwestward of the Grand 
Trunk railway wharf at Levis, which is marked with the name of the 
company, the shore dries at low water nearly to the ends of the long 
piers that extend off it. The shore dries for 700 yards off Hadlow 
cove, and there are large bowlders on its outer part. 

A shoal bank extends about 600 yards off the mouth of Echemin 
river, opposite point Pizeau. 

Clearing marks.—The statue on the hospital of St. Joseph de la 
JDelivrance open northwestward of a large black shed on the pier 
next southwestward of the Grand Trunk Railway wharf, bearing 45°, 
leads northwestward of the shoal till northwestward of the entrance 
of riviere de la Scie; and thence St. Nicholas church, the first west¬ 
ward of St. Romuald and of New Liverpool on the southern shore, 
in line with the extreme of that shore, bearing 242°, leads northward 
of the western part of this bank. 

Levis, situated on the eastern shore of the harbor above point 
Levis, is an important town of 7,783 inhabitants; it contains a great 
number of prominent buildings, the most noticeable being the college, 
the church of Notre Dame, and the hospital of St. Joseph de la 
Delivrance, which is surmounted by a statue and a spire. 

The terminal stations of the Intercolonial and Grand Trunk rail¬ 
ways are on this shore, from which there is communication by steam 
ferry to Quebec. 

Quebec city consists of two parts, the upper town, built on the 
ridge which forms the northwestern side of the river, and the lower 
town, situated on the plateau between the base of that ridge and St. 
Charles river, this part embracing the parishes of St. Roch and St. 
Sauveur. 

In the upper town are the principal residences, public buildings, 
churches, gardens, and retail shops; and in the lower town are the 
banks, warehouses, and wholesale and retail stores. The population 
of the whole city in 1901 was 68,840. 

The highest point of the city is the citadel, which is 340 feet above 
high water, and the most prominent buildings seen from the eastward 
are Laval university, Parliament house, and St. John church. The 
custom-house, a stone building with a dome surmounted by a flag¬ 
staff, stands at the northeastern end of the town. 

Lights.—A small square, skeleton, brown tower, 74 feet high, on 
the northeastern angle of Princess Louise embankment, near the 
Immigration offices, exhibits, at 80 feet above high water, a fixed red 
electric arc light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
4 miles over a small arc on each side of the range line. 

The eastern face of the marine tower, 113 feet high, situated on 
the cross wall, Princess Louise basin, and 230°, 563 yards from the 


QUEBEC HARBOR. 


491 

preceding light, exhibits, at 103 feet above high water, a fixed red 
electric arc light, which should be seen in, and through a small arc 
on each side of, the direction of the range line in clear weather a 
distance of 8 miles. 

These lights in line lead between Point Levis shoal and Beauport 
bank to Commissioners’ wharf, Princess Louise basin. 

Anchorage.—The water in the middle of the river, southeastward 
of Beauport bank, is 19 to 32 fathoms deep, and anchorage there 
should be avoided if possible. 

There is anchorage off the city of Quebec in 12 to 15 fathoms, but 
the water continues about 30 fathoms deep off the town of Levis. 
The depth decreases southwestward until between Hadlow and Wolfe 
coves there is no greater depth than 15 fathoms. This is the best 
part of the harbor for anchorage, as a bank, with less than 10 fathoms 
water on it, extends midway across the river from the northwestern 
shore, the outer edge of the bank being 700 yards distant from la 
Mouche bank. 

There is believed to be a patch of rock or a sunken wreck, situated 
with the time ball bearing 264°, distant about 575 yards, and an¬ 
chorage should not be taken in this immediate vicinity. 

Prohibited anchorage.—Anchorage is prohibited between lines 
drawn from the southeastern corner of Crawford’s wharf to the 
southeastern corner of Barras wharf, on the northeast, and from the 
middle of Champlain Market hall to the northwestern corner of 
Simpsorr’s wharf, on the southwest. The first of these lines runs in 
a direction of 105°, and the second in the same direction. 

This space is indicated in daytime by sign boards and at night by 
red lights on both sides of the river. 

The ferry, and the telegraph, telephone, and electric light cables 
cross the harbor from Quebec to Levis in this area. 

Directions—Crane island to Quebec.—From \ mile south-south¬ 
eastward of Crane Island lighthouse, steer to pass about 200 yards 
north-northwestward of St. Thomas Bank lightbuoy, and then bring 
the apparent northern extreme of the hills on the southern shore of 
the river just open southward of Crane Island lighthouse, 51°, and 
keep this range on astern, passing about 400 yards north-northwest¬ 
ward of Wye Rock buoy. Keep the same range on until about 2 miles 
southwestward of Wye Rock buoy. Then steer to pass J mile south¬ 
ward of St. Jean lighthouse; this course passes f mile northward of 
Bellechasse Island lighthouse, and \ mile southward of Madame Reef 
lightbuoy. From southward of St. Jean lighthouse steer for a posi¬ 
tion midway between St. Laurent lighthouse and Beaumont reefs 
lightbuoy. Thence continue westward with the coast of Orleans 
island aboard, but keep St. Laurent lighthouse open southward of 


492 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


the southern end of Orleans island in order to clear Marand rocks, 
which are marked by a red spar buoy. When St. Petronille light¬ 
house bears 290°, steer 275° until the marine tower and the light¬ 
house at the Princess Louise basin are in line, bearing 230°,* then keep 
this range on, steering between Point Levis shoal and Beauport bank 
to Commissioners’ wharf, or to about J mile above Point Levis light- 
buoy, when haul southwestward and proceed to the desired wharf 
or anchor at discretion as recommended. 

If approaching the harbor at night, it may be advisable to anchor off 
St. Patrick hole, or under the western end of Orleans island, to avoid 
the risk of running among the shipping in the dark. 

Tides. —It is high water, full and change, at Quebec at 6h. 35m.; 
springs rise 18 feet, neaps 12J feet; neaps range 10 feet. 

The a. m. tides are the highest from the spring equinox to the 
autumnal equinox, and the p. m. tides during the remainder of the 
year. 

The greatest semidiurnal inequality yet observed is 4 feet (in Sep¬ 
tember, 1888), but the average difference between the a. m. and p. m. 
heights of high water is about 2J feet. The inequality in the time of 
high water is not so marked; the most regular was observed in June, 
1888, when the p. m. tides were 24 minutes earlier than the a. m. tides. 
There is very little inequality in the height of low water, but that in 
the time is most marked, a difference of 1 hour having been ob¬ 
served in June, 1888. The average difference was J hour. The 
highest tides observed were during the freshets at the end of May or 
early in June, and at the autumnal equinoctial tides (October 8, 
1887). The former rose 2J feet, and the latter 2 feet above ordinary 
spring tide level. 

The highest of the spring tides generally occurs on (he second or 
third morning after the change of moon, and the lowest tide at one 
tide either before or after the highest. These remarks apply gen¬ 
erally to St. Lawrence river. 

As a rule the water rises higher with strong northeasterly winds, 
and falls lower wdth southwesterly winds. 

The height of the tide at Quebec at every hour after low and high 
water at ordinary springs is: 













QUEBEC HARBOR. 


49 $ 


At neaps the whole tidal rise is not as great as at ordinary springs, 
and in using the above table an allowance must be made accordingly. 

Tide tables for Quebec are published by the United States Coast 
and Geodetic Survey and by the marine and fisheries department of 
Canada. 

Mean tide level. —A register, kept at Levis dry dock for the year 
1897, shows that the mean tide level is 17.56 feet above the sill of 
that dock, and that this mean tide level is subject to fluctuation, being 
in February, 1897, nearly a foot below, and in May a foot above the 
mean annual tide level of that year. The extreme range of the tide 
occurred in March, and amounted to 24.4 feet, but the mean extreme* 
range was 20 feet—that is, 10 feet above and below the mean level. 

Tidal streams. —The flood stream begins at 3h. 55m. before high 
water on the shore, and runs 5h. 0m.; the ebb stream begins at lh. 
5m. after high water on the shore, and runs 7h. 30m. Close to the 
shore the stream turns about 20 minutes after high and low water, 
the flood making first on the north shore and the ebb on the south 
shore. 

The tidal streams run generally in the direction of the river, the 
ebb stream being strongest on the southern shore, and the flood on 
the northern shore. The flood stream sets rather toward Beauport 
bank, and should be guarded against. The ebb attains a rate of 44 
knots off point Levis, and the flood of 34 knots off the Citadel. 

Table showing tidal data. 


Place. 

3 . 


Neaps. 

Semidiurnal inequality. 

Flood stream af¬ 
ter low water. 

Ebb stream after 
high water. 

Duration of— 

High water, i 
and change 

Springs rise. 

Rise. 

Range. 

Greatest in 
height of 
high water. 

Average. 

Greatest in 
time of low 
water. 

Average. 

Flood. 

Ebb. 


h. m. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

Ft. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

h. m. 

Rivi6re du Loup. 

3 10 

16* 

10* 

7 

3* 

2* 

0 32 

0 15 

0 46 

0 29 

6 5 

6 20 

Off Orignaux point ... 

3 47 

17* 

13 

9* 

3* 

2* 



0 30 

1 10 

5 55 

6 30 

Bay St Paul 

4 23 

18£ 

13 

10 

4 

2* 







St Jean Port Joli 

4 58 

17i 

12 

9* 

3* 

2* 

0 52 

0 27 



5 53 

6 30 

L’ islet 

5 11 

18 

13 

10* 



0 30 

0 30 

5 30 

6 50 

Grosse isle 

5 21 

19 

13 

11 





1 0 

1 5 

5 10 

7 10 

Berthier. 

5 40 

17* 

14 

11 

3* 

2* 

0 52 

0 32 

1 10 

1 5 

5 5 

7 20 

St. Laurent. 

6 20 

17* 

14* 

11 

5* 

2* 

0 46 

0 30 

0 55 

1 10 

5 0 

7 25 

Quebec. 

6 35 

18 

12* 

10 

4 

2* 

1 0 

0 30 

1 10 

1 5 

5 0 

7 30 

Ste. Anne de Beaupr6. 

6 2 

17* 

12* 

9* 

3 

1* 

0 55 

0,30 

0 45 

1 0 

5 10 

7 15- 


Princess Louise tidal basin, at the northeastern side of Quebec, 
has an area of 21 acres, with a quay frontage of 1,100 yards, and a 
depth of 25 feet at low water. Immediately along the face of the 
quay wall the depth is 24 feet, but at 10 feet distant therefrom there 
is a depth of 25£ feet at low water spring tides. The entrance to the 
tidal basin is 200 feet wide. 




































494 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Princess Louise wet dock, opening from the tidal basin, is about 
800 yards long, 200 yards in average breadth, with an area of 40 acres, 
and a quay frontage of about 1,130 yards. The depth of water in 
the dock is 22 to 30 feet, and the depth on the sill of the gates 35 feet, 
at high water springs. The width of the entrance from the tidal 
basin is 66 feet. 

Vessels can enter the wet dock at each time of high water. 

Lines of railway for the shipment of freight to and from all parts 
of Canada extend to this dock and basin. 

Wharves. —There are numerous wharves at Quebec and at Levis, 
the depths alongside which range from 19 to 40 feet, but any vessel 
can lie close to them by regulating the distance off according to draft. 
Large vessels can moor alongside Commissioners’ wharf. Point a 
Carey wharf is 350 feet long, and has a depth of 40 feet at low water 
ordinary springs alongside it; large vessels are recommended to go 
alongside this wharf with head downstream, and with the starboard 
anchor down to haul off by. To afford more accommodation for sea¬ 
going steamers the breakwater has been extended 962 feet northward, 
the total length being 2,260 feet, giving 4 berths for largest steamers, 
and the new work has a depth of 42 feet at low water along its outer 
face. 

Docks—Levis or Harbor Commissioners’ dry dock is situated 
on the Levis side of the river at about 1 mile eastward of Levis point. 
Its length on blocks is 600 feet, breadth of entrance, 61J feet, and 
depth of water on blocks 23J feet at high water springs. 

There are two warping buoys off the entrance of this dock. 

Davie’s floating docks Ho. 1 and Ho. 2 are situated at Levis, 
dose northeastward of the ferry. The length of No. 1 is 236 feet, 
breadth of entrance 41 feet, and it will take a vessel drawing 13 feet 
water. Vessels longer than this dock have been accommodated by 
building a water-tight compartment at the end. The lifting power 
of this dock is 2,175 tons. 

The length of No. 2 is 180 feet, breadth of entrance 39 feet, and it 
can take a vessel drawing 13 feet. Its lifting power is 1,605 tons. 

Russell’s floating dock is situated at Levis, and i mile south¬ 
ward of the ferry wharf. It is 225 feet long over all, 41^ feet broad 
at entrance, and takes a vessel drawing 15^ feet; it has a lifting power 
of 2,500 tons. 

Davie’s marine railway is situated close to the two floating 
docks bearing that name; the length of cradle is 150 feet, and can 
take on a vessel drawing 10 feet. 

Russell’s gridiron, 200 feet in length, is close to Russell’s floating 
dock. 


QUEBEC HARBOR. 


495 


Roche stone graving dock, with a length of 375 feet, a breadth 
of 51 feet, and a depth over the sill of 16 feet at high water is sit¬ 
uated in Wolfe’s cove. 

Repairs. —Large repairs to hull, machinery, and boilers can be 
executed at Quebec. There is a 25-ton crane and a 9-ton steam haim 
mer. Forgings too large to be made at Quebec are executed at New 
Glasgow' and forwarded by rail. Steel castings are made in Mon¬ 
treal by the Montreal Steel company. 

Pilotage rates. —The rates from Bic island, or any place below 
the anchorage of Brandy Pots, off Hare island, to Quebec, between 
May 1 and November 10, are $3.87; between November 10 and 
November 19, $4.95; after November 19 and earlier than March 1, 
$6.02; and from March 1 to May 1, $4.41 for each foot draft of water. 

From the anchorage off Brandy Pots, or any place between it and 
St. Roch point, to Quebec, the rates are § of the above. 

From St. Roch point, or any place between it and point aux Pins, 
Crane island, to Quebec, the rates are 4 of those from Bic to Quebec. 
From point aux Pins, or any place between that and St. Patrick hole 
to Quebec, the rates are % of those from Bic to Quebec. 

From Quebec to Bic or the place where the pilot may be landed 
in the river below Quebec, the rates are, from May 1 to November 
10, $3.40; from November 10 to November 19, $4.46; after November 
19 and earlier than March 1, $5.54; and from March 1 to May 1, 
$3.93 for each foot of draft. 

The pilotage charge for moving a vessel from any wharf in the 
harbor of Quebec between point a Carey, below, and the western end 
of Allan’s wharf above, to any other wharf within the same limits 
is $2.50; and the charge for moving a vessel from any place, not be¬ 
ing a wharf, within the above limits to any other place, not being a 
wharf, within the same limits, is $5. 

In 1902, 105 pilots of the Quebec pilot commissioners effected 
pilotages. 

The Canadian Marine and Fisheries department controls the pilot¬ 
age between Quebec and Montreal. 

Tugs may be obtained by telegram from any of the telegraph and 
signal stations. There are 5 first class and 10 smaller tugs at Quebec, 
3 tugs at Batiscan, 3 at Sorel, and one at Three Rivers. The charges 
are fixed by agreement, although a nominal tariff is in existence. 

The wrecking steamer Lord Strathcona is stationed at Quebec 
under contract w T ith the Canadian government, and is available at 
any time, four hours’ notice being sufficient. 

Ice.— The river seldom, if ever, freezes across below Quebec, but it is 
almost filled with ice that fluctuates with wind and tidal stream from 


496 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


shore to shore; the ebb strearii and westerly winds carrying it to the 
southward, and the flood stream with easterly winds to the north¬ 
ward. 

As an average the first arrival of steam vessels at Quebec from 
Montreal occurs on April 27, the first arrival from sea on April 28, 
and the last departure for sea on November 27. The ferry steamers 
cross from Quebec to Levis till near the end of January, and would 
occasionally run all the winter, but are compelled to lay up so that 
the ice may consolidate across the river. The bridge thus formed 
breaks up usually late in March or early in April, though it has 
remained till April 24.^ 

Supplies. —Provisions of all kinds can be obtained at Quebec. 
Water may be obtained by boat from the hydrants in the city, or from 
the river. Vessels in Princess Louise docks are supplied with water 
free of cost. 

Coal.— Vessels can coal either from lighters or at the wharves. 
The greatest quantity of coal is brought from Nova Scotia, but there 
are occasional cargoes of English, Welsh, and Scotch coal. 

About 25,000 tons are generally stored at the various coal depots. 

Wood can be bought without difficulty; it is generally stored in 
large quantities near the Canadian Pacific Railway station in the 
lower town. Bateaux are continuously employed in carrying wood 
from the numerous localities on the north shore of the river, where 
it is cut. 

Trade. —The total value of the exports from Quebec in 1902 was 
$4,438,492, and of the imports $6,941,665. 

Customs. —There are no special customs regulations. 

Sailors’ home, hospitals, etc.— There is no sailors’ home at 
Quebec. Seamen are shipped under the direction of the Marine 
department. Sick seamen are cared for at the Jeffrey Hale hos¬ 
pitals and the hotel Dieu. 

The United States is represented by a consul, a vice-consul, and 
a consular agent. 

Communication. —Quebec is in communication with European 
ports as follows: Liverpool, Glasgow, and London, weekly, by the 
Allan line; Liverpool and Glasgow, weekly, by the Dominion line: 
Antwerp, London, Hull, Leith, and Newcastle, fortnightly, by the 
Leyland line; Manchester, about every 10 days, by Manchester 
liners; Hamburg, irregularly by Hamburg-American line; Cape¬ 
town and ports in South Africa, monthly, by the Canada-South 
Africa line; Rotterdam, Canadian, Ocean and Ireland line, fort¬ 
nightly; Antwerp, by the Canadian Pacific Atlantic lines, weekly: 
Glasgow, by the Donaldson line, weekly; Belfast and Dublin, by 


QUEBEC. 


497 


the Head line, weekly; Cardiff, by the Lord line, monthly; Thomp¬ 
son line, weekly to London, fortnightly to Leith, monthly to Aber¬ 
deen. 

A steamer of the Quebec Steamship company runs fortnightly 
from Quebec to Summerside, Charlottetown, and Pictou, calling at 
the principal ports in the gulf on the way; and a steamer of the 
Gaspe Steamship line runs fortnightly to Douglastown and Gaspe 
basin, calling at all ports on the southern side of the lower St. 
Lawrence. 

A steamer of the North Shore Steamship line carries the mails 
to the settlements on the northern shore of the estuary and gulf as 
far as Eskimo point, calling also at English point, Anticosti, and 
sailing from Quebec every 10 days. The steam vessel King Edward 
sails from Quebec every 10 days for north shore ports as far as 
Natashkwan, and makes one trip every season to Blanc Sablon. 
Steamers of the Bichelieu and Ontario Steam Navigation company 
run from Montreal to Quebec, Murray bay, Tadoussac, and Sague¬ 
nay river, three times a week from June 1 to 15, and thence daily 
(except Sundays) till September 17. Local steamers run to the 
near villages twice a week; to Ste. Anne de Beaupre daily; and 
ferries run to Orleans island and to New Liverpool several times 
in the day. 

There is communication by rail with all parts of Canada and the 
United States. 

The telegraph office at Quebec belongs to the Great North Western 
Telegraph company of Canada, and there is communication with the 
telegraph systems of the world. 

Time signal.—A time signal is made at the citadel daily, except 
on Sundays, and is a ball which is hoisted halfway up its mast at 
J hour before, and to the masthead at 5 minutes before, the signal. 
This ball is dropped at lh. 0m. Osec. mean time of the meridian of 
75° W. longitude, which is equivalent to 6h. 0m. Osec. Greenwich 
mean time. 

If the signal fails in accuracy the ball is hoisted halfway up its 
mast and kept there for ^ hour. 

The time signal mast is in latitude 46° 48' 23" N., longitude 71° 
12' 35" W. 

Weather.— Snow generally begins to fall early in October; the 
hills become white in November and continue so till May. The 
snowfall between December and March is heavy. Patches of snow 
remain in the valleys till June. 

The wind blows generally up or down the river, the proportion of 
southwesterly winds being about 5 to 4 of northeasterly winds. Fog 


50918—08-32 


498 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


prevails principally in July and August, and smoke is very common 
in August and September, but no time of the year is free from fog. 

The average height of the barometer for the year is 29.96 in.; for 
January, 30.00 in., and for June, 29.89 in. The mean temperature is 
39°; it is highest at 96° in August, and lowest at —34°.3 in January. 

Storm signals are shown from the citadel at Quebec. 

North Channel, North Traverse, and Orleans Channel (con¬ 
tinued from p. 463). 

North channel above Groose cape is not generally used for naviga¬ 
tion, yet cases may occur, as, for instance, when South channel is 
obstructed by ice, in which it may be necessary to use it. 

The entrance to North channel, between the reef which extends 
northeastward about one mile from Baleine point, the northeastern 
end of Coudres island, and the shoals which stretch across fiboule- 
ments bay, is 1J miles wide, and the depth in it reaches 30 fathoms. 
The narrowest part of the channel northwestward of Coudres island 
is 1 mile wide, and lies between Prairie shoal, off Prairie point, and 
the mainland near cape Corbeau. 

St. Paul bay, between cape Corbeau and cape cle la Baie (or cap 
d’Arret), dries nearly to the line of these points, and there is no 
passage into either of the rivers at the head of the bay at low water. 
The point in the middle of the bay, separating the mouths of the 
rivers, is wooded and has on it a conspicuous sand hill, 30 feet high. 
The village of St. Pierre et St. Paul is situated near the bridge which 
crosses riviere du Gouffre, the eastern stream, at about 1 mile from 
the entrance, and contains a church with two spires which is visible 
from some parts of the channel. The population of the village is 
about 1,400. 

Tidal stream. —The ebb stream sweeps round this bay at a rate 
of 7i knots at springs, and makes a ripple which is dangerous for 
boats. 

Anchorage. —There is a limited space between the northwestern 
edge of the tidal stream and the shoal water of the bay, where small 
vessels anchor securely in 5 fathoms water; it is situated at about 
J mile eastward of the middle of the bay, and about 200 yards distant 
from the depth of 18 feet at low water. 

The northern shore of the river, westward of St. Paul bay, trends 
south-southwestward and rises steeply to the summits of high wooded 
hills, that attain a height of 2,650 feet northwestward, nearly 2 miles 
from cape Maillard. At 1J miles south-southwestward from cape de 
la Baie, a small strip of low flat land, lying between the foot of the 
hills and high-water mark, commences, and extends south-southwest- 


LA BATE BANK-I#ONGUE POINTE. 


499 


ward to Grande point, a distance of 5 miles. Numerous houses, form¬ 
ing the parish of Petite riviere, are built on this flat; and among 
them is St. Frangois Xavier church, with a single spire. Several 
valleys indent the hills, the most marked being about 2 miles north¬ 
eastward of St. Frangois Xavier church. 

La Baie bank.—A plateau of rock covered with mud and bowlders, 
and which dries at low water, extends 1,200 yards off cape de la 
Baie, and thence fringes the shore generally for the distance of 
about J mile as far southwestward as Petite riviere, a distance of 3} 
miles. Southwestward of this the plateau continues at from 1,000 to 
600 yards off the land to Sault au Cochon, a farther distance of 8 miles, 
where the water is deep to within about 300 yards of the shore. From 
cape de la Baie south-southwestward to Sault au Cochon the water 
deepens to 5 fathoms about 400 yards off the flat, which dries at low 
water. 

Buoy.—A conical red buoy, No. 104 B, is moored in 4 fathoms 
water, close southward of Claude shoal, the highest accumulation of 
bowlders off cape de la Baie, and with that cape bearing 324°, distant 
nearly J mile. 

Lightbuoy.—A red spar buoy, No. 106 B, showing an intermittent 
white light, automatically eclipsed at short intervals, is moored in 5 
fathoms, off Grande point on the following bearings: Wharf at Sault 
au Cochon, 216°; sawmill at Grande point, 300 3 . 

Clearing marks.—Cape Gribanne open southeastward of cape 
Maillard, bearing 212°, leads eastward of this shoal when northeast¬ 
ward of Petite riviere; and the first notch in the hills northwestward 
of mount Eboulements in line with cape Branche, the western end of 
Coudres island, bearing 34°, leads eastward of the shoal when south- 
westward of St. Frangois Xavier church. 

Cape Maillard, about 3^ miles south-southwestward of Petite 
riviere, rises to la petite butte Bonde, a conical wooded hill 774 feet 
high, at about 600 yards inland, and is conspicuous from the north¬ 
eastward and southwestward. There are two small shingle beaches, 
named Petit Abattis and PAbattis, situated south-southwestward of 
cape Maillard; and on l’Abattis, which is 1J miles distant from that 
cape, there are several conspicuous houses. 

Sault au Cochon village contains a group of houses, a small 
church, a disused mill, and a wharf which marks the limit of the low- 
water line. Southwestward of Sault au Cochon the low-water line 
extends only a short distance from high-water mark. 

Cape Gribanne lies 4J miles southwestward of Sault au Cochon. 

Longue pointe, a rocky ledge, extends southeastward from the 
land at 800 yards northeastward of cape Gribanne, with depths of 8, 


500 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 

12, and 21 feet over it, at distances of 600, 800, and 1,000 yards, 
respectively, from the shore. 

Buoy.—A conical red buoy, No. 108 B, is moored in 5 fathoms 
water close eastward of this ledge. 

Clearing mark.—The houses at l’Abattis well open southeastward 
of the wharf at Sault au Cochon, bearing 24°, leads close southeast¬ 
ward of this ledge, in about 7 fathoms. 

Landing may be effected in boats after half flood at l’Abattis, 
Petit Abattis, and Grande point, and generally along the coast of 
the parish of Petite Riviere; but care must be taken to avoid the 
bowlders that stand above the general level of the flat ground between 
high and low water marks. The best landing place is Petit De- 
barquement, on either side of a small mound joined to the main by a 
sandy beach at 1 mile northeastward of cape Gribanne. 

Cape Brule lies 2.1 miles southwestward of cape Gribanne. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 34 feet high, on the edge of 
the cliff at cape Brule, exhibits at 148 feet above high water a fixed 
white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 15 
miles. 

There is a dwelling near this lighthouse. 

Range lights.—An open framed tower, 24 feet high, situated 324° 
60 feet from the main lighthouse, exhibits at 128 feet above high 
water a fixed white light, which should be seen in clear weather a dis¬ 
tance of 15 miles. 

An open-framed tower, 34 feet high, situated 14°, 330 feet from the 
preceding lighthouse, exhibits at 158 feet above high water a fixed 
white light, which should be seen in clear weather a distance of 15 
miles. 

These lights in line 14° lead between Traverse spit and Bride bank, 
and with the preceding light are known locally as those of montee 
du Lac. 

Coudres island.—Baleine point, the eastern end of Coudres island, 
lies southwestward 5 miles from Goose cape, and the island extends 
southwestward 5.9 miles from the point, with an average width of 2 
miles. Baleine point, the northeastern point of the island, slopes 
from a wooded mound 63 feet high and appears as an island from a 
short distance. The northwestern coast of the island rises steeply to 
wooded hills 390 feet high, southeastward of which is a cultivated 
valley separating the hills from a ridge 62 feet high and faced by a 
cliff that extends generally along the southeastern coast. Numerous 
houses are built on this ridge, and a round stone mill stands near its 
middle. 

The southern points of the island are at the base of bold bluffs, 
and a mound 90 feet high known as la butte a Gaillard rises north- 


PRAIRIE BAY. 


501 


ward of le Havre, the western of the two coves at the southern end 
of the island. The point extending southward from la butte a Gail- 
lard is a wooded hillock 40 feet high, and appears as an island from a 
short distance. Cape Branche, the western point of the island, rises 
to a steep, wooded bluff 180 feet high. 

St. Louis church, with two spires, is situated on the northern shore 
of PAnse, the eastern cove at the southern end of the island. 

Coudres island is surrounded by reefs, on several of which are large 
rows of stakes with nets affixed to catch the marsouin, or white fish, 
that frequent this part of river St. Lawrence in the early part of the 
summer. 

The population of the island is 1,500. 

Prairie bay lies on the northwestern side of Coudres island be¬ 
tween cap a l’Aigle and Prairie point, and is one of the most sheltered 
anchorages in the river. The shore dries at low water 300 yards 
from the high water mark, and depths less than 5 fathoms extend 
600 yards farther. 

Goose cape shelters Prairie bay from easterly gales, and prevents 
any sea of consequence from rolling in, so that this anchorage is quite 
safe in all winds; the clay bottom being good holding ground, and 
the tidal stream easy if the vessel be not anchored too far out. The 
anchorage space is nearly 1 mile long, and about 600 yards wide, 
in depths of 3 fathoms to 10 fathoms, which latter depth is about } 
mile from the shore, and beyond which the water deepens suddenly, 
and the streams are rapid. The best berth is in 6 fathoms, near the 
middle of the bay, where an easterly gale has been ridden out with 
ease and safety. This is a good anchorage for vessels to run for 
when meeting an easterly wind below South Traverse. 

Pier.—A pier extends from cap a l’Aigle, and it has a depth of 
IT feet at its outer end at low water. 

Light.—A lantern on a mast 20 feet high, at the outer end of the 
pier at cap a l’Aigle, the eastern entrance point of Prairie bay, ex¬ 
hibits, at 25 feet above high water, a fixed white light, that should be 
seen, in clear weather, a distance of 5 miles. 

Prairie shoal extends j mile offshore between Prairie point and 
cape Branche; numerous bowlders of the shoal, dry at low water, 
about 1,200 yards offshore. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 103 B, is moored in 13 feet water 
off this shoal. 

Clearing marks.—The church of Notre Dame des Eboulements 
open northward of the inner end of the pier at cape St. Joseph, bear¬ 
ing 50°, leads close northward, and l’Islet d’en haut, at the south¬ 
western end of Coudres island, open westward of cape Branche, bear¬ 
ing 166°, leads westward of this shoal. 


502 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


The two points on the northeastern side of St. Paul bay in line, 
bearing 293°, lead northeastward of the shoal. 

Directions. —From below Middle ground stand over toward les 
fiboulements, going no nearer to the reef off the northeastern end 
of Coudres island than the depth of 10 fathoms. When cap a l’Aigle 
bears 256° steer along the coast of Coudres island, passing close to 
cap a l’Aigle into the anchorage. From the southwestward, approach 
with the church of Notre Dame des Eboulements open northward of 
the inner end of the pier at cape St. Joseph, bearing 50°, until St. 
Pierre church is shut in behind the northeastern side of St. Paul bay, 
or the points on the northeastern side of that bay are in line, when 
haul into the anchorage. Vessels should moor at Prairie bay, or at 
least have a hedge out to insure keeping a clear anchor. 

Tides and tidal streams. —It is high water, full and change, at 
Prairie bay at 4h. 25m.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps lCMr feet. In the 
bay the flood stream is longer than the ebb, the water flowing for 6h. 
20m., and ebbing for 6h. 0m., and this differs from the streams in 
every other part of the river. The flood stream, at the anchorage in 
6 fathoms, is stronger than the ebb, its rate being about 4 knots at 
springs. The ebb stream is turned off to a great extent by Prairie 
shoal; its rate for the first 2 hours is about 2 knots; it then slacks 
for about 5 minutes so completely, that a vessel will swing to the 
wind; the stream then becomes stronger and regular during the re¬ 
mainder of the tide, its rate being about 3-J knots at springs. 

Anchorage under Coudres island in easterly winds is very good, 
the best position being in 7 fathoms, with the southern point of 
Coudres island bearing about 65°. 

Coudres bank extends southwestward from Coudres island and 
shoals rapidly within the depth of 5 fathoms. There is good anchor¬ 
age on its western side in 7 to 8 fathoms. 

Clearing mark. —The landslip near cape St. Joseph, open north¬ 
westward of cape Branche, bearing 26°, leads northwestward of this 
bank till abreast cape Maillard. Vessels anchoring may swing into 
this line, but not farther northward than the southwestern point of 
Coudres island bearing 84°. 

Neptune rock (rocher de Sault au Cochon) lies nearly 15 miles 
southwestward of Coudres island, and nearly f mile southeastward 
of the edge of the shoals. It is about 200 yards in length, northeast 
and southwest, and has two heads, both of which are 1 foot above 
high water spring tides. There are shoals and many rocks that dry 
between Neptune rock and Burnt Cape ledges to the southwestward 
and some between Neptune rock and Coudres island to the northeast¬ 
ward. 


BURNT CAPE LEDGES-WESTERN NARROWS. 


503 


Burnt Cape ledges are an extensive chain of graywacke and slate 
rocks. The southwestern end is an islet 12 feet high, which bears 
98°, 1} miles from cape Briile; and on the reef southeastward of this 
islet there is a hut with a roof 8 feet above high water. 

Brule bank.—The northeastern end of Brule bank in 3 fathoms 
bears 67°, 1.4 miles from cape Brule, and the bank, a sand flat which 
partly dries 5 feet at low water, extends thence southwestward 3.8 
miles. The southwestern part of the bank is joined by shoal water to 
the shoals extending southwestward from Burnt Cape ledges. The 
channel between Briile bank and the northwestern shore is 1,200 yards 
wide, and has depths of 54 to 13 fathoms water in it. This is the only 
channel, but Brule cul de sac, an inlet in the banks, lies between the 
northeastern part of Bride bank and Burnt Cape ledges, and must be 
avoided by keeping the north shore aboard after arriving off the 
eastern part of the ledge. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 109 B, is moored in 4 fathoms off the 
northeastern end of Brule bank, with cape Brule principal lighthouse 
bearing 238°, distant 1.8 miles. 

Leading mark.—The western end of Two Heads island in line 
with the southwestern end of Burnt Cape ledges, bearing 151°, leads 
over the northeastern end of Brule bank in a depth of 18 feet. 

Eastern narrows of North Traverse, between the southwestern 
end of Brule bank and the northeastern point of Traverse spit, lies 
southward 2.G miles from cape Bride, and has a least depth of 4 fath¬ 
oms in its fairway. Traverse spit is an extensive reef of slate extend¬ 
ing northeastward 3.6 miles from the northeastern end of Orleans 
island. The narrows is only 300 yards wide, with depths greater than 
3 fathoms; but a large part of the spit, as well as of Bride bank, dries 
soon after half ebb, and thereby greatly lessens the difficulty of the 
passage. 

Buoys.—A black can buoy, No. Ill B, is moored in 3 fathoms on 
the eastern side of Eastern narrows and at the southwestern extreme 
of Brule bank; and a red cylindrical gas buojr, No. 110 B, exhibiting 
an intermittent white light, is moored at the northeastern end of 
Traverse spit and on the western side of Eastern narrows. 

Western narrows, between Traverse spit and West sand, is 300 
yards wide, with depths over 18 feet, but has a depth of 4| fathoms 
in its fairway. Between Eastern and Western narrows there is a 
least depth of 4 fathoms in the fairway. West sand lies southward 
of Traverse spit and extends southward 1.1 miles with a greatest 
width of nearly COO yards. The depths over it are generally 10 to 12 
feet, but over its shoalest, part the depth is only 5 feet. 

Buoy.—A black can buoy, No. 113 B, is moored in 28 feet water 
close northeastward of this shoal. 


504 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


Clearing marks.—The southern extremes of Orleans island just 
open of each other, bearing 214°, leads northwestward; and the 
southwestern end of the islet at the southwestern end of Grosse isle 
in line w T ith the northeastern side of the islet eastward of Reaux 
island, bearing 109°, leads close northeastward of West sand. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at North Traverse, 
Orleans island, at 5h. 40m.; springs rise IT feet, neaps 13 feet. 

Cape Tourmente, south'westward 1.9 miles from cape Brule, marks 
the southwestern end of the land rising steeply from the river. Its 
summit is a densely wooded hill, 1,874 feet high, nearly f mile 
northward of the cape, on the slope of which, and at 1,692 feet above 
high water, is a small chapel, the spire of which is visible from many 
parts of the river. 

North channel—Directions.—From southward of cape St. Joseph 
keep cape Martin and Goose cape in line astern, bearing 64°, until 
Flslet d’en liaut opens westward of cape Branche, when steer south- 
westward up the channel. 

In passing do not close cape Branche to less than 4 mile nor to 
less than 10 fathoms water, and even that with due caution, for the 
bank off Coudres island is steep-to southward of the cape. After 
passing Coudres island the edge of the bank may be approached to 
7 fathoms until abreast Neptune rock. 

If on the northwestern side of the channel, keep cape Gribanne 
open southeastward of cape Maillard, bearing 212°, in order to clear 
the shoal off cape de la Baie, until as far southwestward as Petite 
Riviere. Farther southwestward, where the shoal extends nearly f 
mile offshore, keep the first notch in the hills northwestward of mount 
fiboulements in line with cape Branche, bearing 34°, till off Sault au 
Cochon, after which the shore becomes bold. 

After passing Sault au Cochon the houses at l’Abattis well open 
of the wharf at Sault au Cochon, bearing 24°, just clears Longue 
pointe, after which keep the northern shore well on board until abreast 
cape Brule. Then bring and keep the leading lighthouses (open 
framed towers), on that cape in line, bearing 14°, through Eastern 
narrows, between the buoys there, until the upper St. Francois 
lighthouse is slightly open southeastward of the lower one, bearing 
222°. Steer with these lighthouses so open, but before the islet at the 
southwestern end of Grosse isle is in line with the islet eastward of 
Reaux island, bearing 109°, bring the southern extremes of Orleans 
island just open of each other, bearing 214°, to pass close northward 
of West Sand buoy and between West sand and Traverse spit. When 
St. Yallier church opens westward of Madame island, or St. Joachim 
church is shut in with Orleans island, steer to pass \ mile eastward of 
St. Frangois front lighthouse, whence gradually close the coast of 


TIDAL STREAMS-LIGHTS. 


505 


Orleans island to the distance of J mile, and steer into South channel, 
thence proceeding to Quebec as directed on page 491. 

Tidal streams.—The streams in North channel attain their great¬ 
est rate between Coudres island and St. Paul bay, where the rate of 
the ebb is 7^ knots, and of the flood about 6 knots, at springs. The 
streams set fairly through North Traverse, and attain a rate of 3J to 
4 knots at springs. In strong breezes opposed to these streams there 
is a high breaking sea that is very dangerous for boats. In North 
channel the streams turn at about the same times as those in the 
opposite part of South channel. 

Channels.—Besides Western narrows there is an inferior channel, 
named West Sand passage, between West and Center sands, as wide 
as Western narrows, but with only 3£ fathoms water in it. For this, 
and another channel southward of Center sands, the chart must be 
the guide. 

Orleans channel is not suitable for vessels drawing over 15 feet 
water, as there are several shoals nearly in mid-channel with that 
depth, and it should not be attempted without a pilot or some local 
knowledge. 

Lights.—The following leading lights facilitate the navigation of 
this channel: 

Ste. Famille,—A mast, 50 feet high, with a white shed at its base, 
on the beach near a stone mill, at Ste. Famille, exhibits, at 50 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen in clear 
weather a distance of 12 miles. 

A square white lighthouse with a red roof, 21 feet high, at about 
i mile southwestward of the church at Ste. Famille, and 800 yards 
52° from the preceding light, exhibits, at 245 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light that should be seen in clear weather a distance of 
16 miles. 

These lights in line 52° lead through best water clear of all obstruc¬ 
tions from intersection with St. Pierre range off Batture des Islets to 
intersection with L’Ange Gardien range off pointe au Pavilion black 
buoy No. 135 B. 

Point St. Pierre. —A square white lighthouse, with a red roof, 23 
feet high, on point St. Pierre, and close to the high-water mark, 
exhibits, at 20 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should 
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of 9 miles. 

A mast 50 feet high, with a white shed having a red roof, at its 
base, and situated 218°, 180 yards from the preceding lighthouse, ex¬ 
hibits, at 50 feet above high water, a fixed white light that should be 
seen, in clear weather, a distance of 12 miles. 

These lights in line 218° lead clear of all obstructions from mid¬ 
channel opposite Ste. Famille wharf to intersection with Ste. Famille 
range. 


506 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


L’Ange Gardien.—A square white lighthouse, with a red roof, 23 
feet high, on the beach between l’Ange Gardien village and Montmo¬ 
rency falls, on the mainland, northwestern shore, exhibits, at 20 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 9 miles. 

A square white lighthouse, with a red roof, 21 feet high, situated 
26°, 473 yards from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 33 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light that should be seen, in clear 
weather, a distance of 11 miles. 

These lights in line 26° lead clear of all obstructions from inter¬ 
section with Ste. Famille range to junction of Orleans channel with 
South channel opposite west point of Orleans island. 

Buoys.—A red conical ‘buoy, No. 120 B, is moored on the south¬ 
eastern edge of Seminaire spit, with cape Brule bearing 32°, 2.9 miles. 

A black can buoy, No. 121 B, is moored on the northwestern edge 
of Traverse spit. 

A black can buoy, No. 123 B, is moored on the northern edge of 
the shoal which lies in mid-channel southward of Ste. Anne river. 

A black can buoy, No. 125 B, is moored on the northwestern edge 
of the shoal in mid-channel southward of Ste. Anne river. 

A red conical buoy, No. 126 B, is moored at the eastern end of the 
spit extending from the batture des Islets, a bank of bowlders that 
dries at low water situated nearly in mid-channel northeastward of 
point St. Pierre. 

A black can buoy, No. 127 B, is moored on the northwestern edge 
of the shoal extending off Orleans island between Ste. Famille and 
point St. Pierre. 

Red conical buoys, Nos. 128 B, 130 B, 132 B, 134 B, are moored on 
the southeastern edge, the southern edge, the southwestern edge, and 
the western edge, respectively, of the batture des Islets. 

A black can buoy, No. 135 B, is moored on the northwestern edge 
of the bowlders off pointe au Pavilion, but not of the shoal lying east¬ 
ward of it. 

A red conical buoy, No. 136 B, is moored on the southeastern corner 
of the sand bank that extends from the north shore off Beauport. 

Directions for Orleans channel.—From about J mile off cape 
Brule steer to pass a similar distance southeastward of the red buoy 
on Seminaire spit; then steer southwestward and bring the apparent 
northwestern extreme of Orleans island, westward of the pier at St. 
Francois, in line with the northern end of that pier, bearing 243°. 
Keep this range on passing 200 yards northward of Traverse Spit 
buoy, and keep the range until the church of Ste. Anne de Beaupre 
is in line with the sharp peak on the western summit of the ridge 
northward of Chateau Richer, bearing 257°; when steer on that 
range, passing between the banks. 


TIDES AND TIDAL STREAMS. 


507 


When Chateau Richer church is in line with the northern fall of 
the hills over l’Ange Gaidien, bearing 235°, steer on that range until 
Parliament house, at Quebec, is in line with the apparent northwest¬ 
ern extreme of Orleans island, bearing 224°. This large leads in mid¬ 
channel between the shoals until St. Pierre lighthouses are in line, 
bearing 218°, when steer with them in line until Ste. Famille light¬ 
houses are in line, bearing 52°. Keep these lighthouses in line astern 
until Beauport church south spire is midway between the extremes of 
the two western of Hall’s wharves at Montmorency falls, bea: ing 23G°. 
This range leads northward of the shoal extending northward of 
pointe au Pavilion, and when l’Ange Gardien lights aie in line, 
bearing 2G°, keep them so astern until Quebec range lights are in 
line, when steer for them,and proceed as before directed. 

Tides and tidal streams.—It is high water, full and change, 
at Ste. Anne de Beaupre at Gh. 2m.; springs rise 174 feet, neaps 12} 
feet; neaps range feet; the flood stream begins 4h. 10m. before high 
water on the shore, and it runs 5h. 10m.; the ebb stream begins lh. 
0m. after high water on the shore, and it runs 7h. 15m. The tidal 
streams run generally in the line of the channel, and attain a rate of 
3 to 4 knots at springs. 

The following table has been placed in its component parts under 
the places to which it refers. It is inserted here in full for con¬ 
venience. 


Table showing approximately the height of the tide at every hour after loio and 
high water in ordinary spring tides. 



Hours 

Flood tide. 

Hours 

Ebb 

tide. 

Place. 









aneriow 







water. 

Height. 

water. 

Height. 


h. 

m. 

Ft. 

in. 

h. 

m. 

Ft. 

in. 

Tn/^Anoon^ OTitronPA to fijUTUPTl^ V T*1VPT* . 

0 

0 

0 

0 1. w. 

0 

0 

17 

0 h. w. 

aUUUoStlc, CllllallCv lO uag Uvmij 11 ’ . 

1 

0 

1 

3 

1 

0 

15 

0 


2 

0 

4 

6 

2 

0 

12 

0 


3 

0 

8 

0 

3 

0 

8 

0 


4 

0 

12 

0 

4 

0 

4 

0 


5 

0 

15 

6 

5 

0 

1 

0 


6 

8 

17 

0 h. w. 

6 

16 

0 

0 1. w. 


0 

0 

0 

0 1. w. 

0 

0 

17 

0 h. w. 


1 

0 

1 

3 

1 

0 

15 

0 


2 

0 

4 

7 

2 

0 

12 

0 


3 

0 

9 

5 

3 

0 

8 

6 


4 

0 

13 

8 

4 

0 

5 

6 


5 

0 

16 

0 

5 

0 

3 

0 


5 

50 

17 

0 h. w. 

6 

0 

1 

0 






6 

34 

0 

0 1. w. 

O* DaaR Hoc A nln q ipc .. 

0 

0 

0 

0 1. w. 

0 

0 

17 

0 h. w. 


1 

0 

2 

6 

1 

0 

14 

9 


2 

0 

5 

3 

2 

0 

11 

9 


3 

0 

9 

6 

3 

0 

8 

6 


4 

0 

13 

6 

4 

0 

5 

6 


5 

0 

16 

3 

5 

0 

3 

0 


5 

35 

17 

0 h. w. 

6 

0 

1 

6 






6 

50 

0 

0 1. W 


0 

0 

0 

0 1. w. 

0 

0 

17 

6 h. w. 


1 

0 

5 

6 

1 

0 

15 

0 


2 

0 

10 

6 

2 

0 

11 

4 


3 

0 

14 

9 

3 

0 

8 

0 


4 

0 

16 

3 

4 

0 

5 

10 


4 

50 

17 

6 h. w. 

5 

0 

3 

4 






6 

0 

1 

6 






7 

0 

0 

2 






7 

30 

0 

0 1. w. 




















CHAPTER XIII. 


PROVINCE OF QUEBEC—ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, QUEBEC 
TO MONTREAL. 

Variation in 1908. 

Quebec_17° 05' W. I Three Rivers_16° 14' W. 

Sorel__15° 02' W. | Montreal_14° 42' W. 

Note. —The distance between Quebec and Montreal by the river 
St. Lawrence is 139 miles; of this distance about 88 miles is naturally 
deep water, and through the remaining parts, which are obstructed 
by banks and flats, a ship channel has been dredged to the depth of 
30 feet at low water. 

The present navigable channel between Quebec and Sorel has a 
least depth of 30 feet at ordinary low water, and a minimum width 
of 300 feet, while between Sorel and Montreal the channel has a 
minimum width of 450 feet, with widths of 500 to 750 feet at all 
curves, and a least depth of 30 feet at the lowest water of 1897, or 
about 31^ feet at ordinary low water. 

Dredging in progress.—Dredging is in progress in the river to 
give a clear navigable channel between Quebec and Sorel, having 
a least width of 450 feet, with widths of 500 to 750 feet in the bends, 
and a clear depth of 30 feet at the extreme low w r ater of 1897. The 
length remaining to be dredged at the end of the navigable season 
of 1904 was 17f miles. 

The new channel will give nearly 4 feet greater draft for naviga¬ 
tion than the old channel. 

Fluctuation in depth.—The river has a very great annual fluc¬ 
tuation. Its average height above ordinary low water is, in May, 
6J feet; June, 4J feet; July, 3f feet; August, 1J feet; September, 
1 foot; October, 4 inches; November, 9 inches. 

The total rise in water level in the river at ordinary low water 
from Quebec to Montreal is about 29 feet, thus: From Quebec to 
Portneuf, 4 feet; Portneuf to Batiscan, 10J feet; Batiscan to Three 
Divers, 3^ feet; Three Rivers to Montreal, 11 feet. 

The low water of 1897, the lowest on record, except the short period 
of extraordinary low water in 1895, has been adopted as the river 
level, at which the channel would be made 30 feet in depth. 

508 







WEATHER—BUOYAGE. 


509 


The navigable depth in the channel dredged to the depth of 30 feet 
at lowest water of 1897 was in 1904: In May, 39 feet 11 inches; in 
June, 38 feet 1 inch; in July, 34 feet 5 inches; in August, 33 feet 
1 inch; in September, 33 feet 1 inch; in October, 34 feet 0 inch; in 
November, 32 feet 11 inches. The greatest depth from May to No¬ 
vember was 41 feet 0 inch, and the least, at the end of November, 
31 feet 9 inches. 

Weather. —The weather on the St. Lawrence, between Quebec 
and Montreal, is remarkably favorable for navigation. Fogs are 
most infrequent and of short duration. Smoke rarely affects day 
navigation. Snowstorms do not last over 24 hours; and in these a 
ship should anchor and await fine weather. 

Navigability. —Vessels drawing 30 feet can now navigate the 
St. Lawrence up to#Montreal. The completed sections of the ship 
channel between Quebec and Sorel are being marked with leading 
lights and lightbuoys to facilitate navigation both by day and night 
for all vessels inward bound, as well as light colliers outward. The 
part between Sorel and Montreal has been completed throughout, and 
the largest vessels that can reach Sorel may proceed with safety to 
Montreal at night. 

The best time to leave Quebec, when ascending the river in a 
steamer with a speed of 15 knots, is at the top of high water, as the 
flood stream is then carried as far as it goes. 

Ice. (See pp. 495 and 544.) 

Pilots are indispensable in the St. Lawrence above Quebec, and 
they are obtainable at the pilotage offices at Quebec and Montreal. 
The pilotage system between Quebec and Montreal is under the con¬ 
trol of the department of marine and fisheries, and every pilot when 
engaged to pilot any vessel must, as late as possible before his depart¬ 
ure, obtain information as to the state of the buoys, beacons, and 
channel. 

Pilot charges. —The pilotage dues for any seagoing steam vessel 
between Quebec harbor and Three Rivers, or any place above Port- 
neuf and below Three Rivers, is $1.75 for each foot draft of water; 
between Quebec and Sorel, or any place above Three Rivers and below 
Sorel, $1.87J for each foot of draft; between Quebec and Montreal, or 
any place above Sorel and below Montreal, $2.50 for each foot of 
draft, both upward and downward. 

From Montreal to Sorel, or any place above Sorel and below 
Hochelaga, and from Sorel or any place above Sorel and below 
Hochelaga, to Montreal, the rate is $1 for each foot of draft. 

Buoyage. —The river channel is marked by numerous buoys and 
lightbuoys, which, 4n accordance with the Canadian system, are 


510 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

black, with odd numbers, on the port hand, and red, with even num¬ 
bers, on the starboard hand, ascending the river. The numbers in¬ 
crease ascending the river. The buoys are also marked with letters, 
thus: Q in Quebec district, C in Champlain district, L in Lake St. 
Peter district- and M in Montreal district. 

Their positions are shown on the charts. 

All the pert hand spar buoys and a few isolated starboard hand 
spar buoys have tops of fir trees lashed to them, which make them 
very conspicuous. (1904.) 

In the dredged channels the buoys are moored to the edges of the 
cut, and, owing to the rapidi-y of the current, it is necessary to allow 
considerable slack in their moorings, as if tautly moored the current 
would r ‘ther drag the anchors or drag the buoys under water. There¬ 
fore, allowance should be made for the swing o^the buoys in passing 
them. 

Only the lightbuoys are described herein. 

Passing vessels.—No vessel between Quebec and Montreal may 
pass another vessel proceeding in the same direction in any dredged 
channel (excepting the straight reaches in lake St. Peter), nor in the 
undredged channels, unless there is a distance of 350 feet between the 
vessels as they pass. In every case a vessel overtaking another and 
intending to pass shall signal the other when at a distance of ^ mile, 
by giving cue prolonged blast of the steam whistle, and the other shall 
answer by a similar signal. Then, while the one vessel is overtaking 
and passing the other, if there be not more than 350 feet between 
them, the latter shall slacken her speed to dead slow, and the former 
shall also slacken her speed to a rate merely sufficient to allow her 
to pass the other. 

All up-going vessels, on each occasion, before meeting down-going 
vessels at sharp turns, narrow passages, or where navigation is intri¬ 
cate, shall stop and, if necessary, come to a position of safety below 
the point of danger and remain there until the channel is clear. 

Tides.—It is high water, full and change, at— 

Quebec at 6h. 35m.; springs rise 18 feet, neaps rise 12^ feet. 

St. Nicholas at 7h. 10m.; springs rise 17 feet, neaps rise 11J 
feet. 

Platon point at 8h. 16m.; springs rise 14J feet, neaps rise 9J 
feet. 

Cape a la Roche at 9h. 30m.; springs rise 6 feet, neaps rise 4 
feet. 

Champlain at llh. lm.; springs rise 3 feet, neaps rise 2 feet. 

Three Rivers at llh. 30m.; springs rise 1 foot. 

Point du Lac, tide ends. 

7 / 


TIDAL STREAMS-CURRENT. 


511 


1 rom Quebec to Batiscan, a distance of 51 miles, the tidal rise may 
be taken advantage of, but from Batiscan to Three Rivers, IT miles 
farther up, owing to uncertainty of time and height, it can not be 
depended on for navigation. 

At spring tides above Three Rivers the water is banked up, and 
remains higher than during neaps; with this exception the tide is 
not felt above Three Rivers. 

Easterly gales are said to cause spring tides to rise 1 to 2 feet higher 
at Three Rivers, and a rise of 3 to 4 inches at springs at point du Lac. 

Tide tables are published by the Canadian department of marine 
and fisheries for St. Croix bar, together with tide tables for Quebec. 

Tidal streams.—Between Quebec and cape a la Roche both flood 
and ebb streams are felt. In the vicinity of point aux Trembles (IT 
miles above Quebec), the flood stream begins at 50 minutes after low 
water, and runs 4J hours; the ebb begins 10 minutes after high water 
and runs 7J hours. Near Portneuf the ebb stream begins at high 
water and runs 9 hours; the flood runs for about 2 hours, but it is 
scarcely perceptible at neaps. 

Current.—Above cape a la Roche the current is always down, and 
between that cape and lake St. Peter the effect of the tide is an 
increase or decrease in the rate of the downward current. 

Rate.—The rate of the current varies throughout ; its general 
average is 2J miles an hour. It is greatest at Richelieu rapids; at cape 
a la Roche; and at St. Marys rapid, in Montreal harbor. No reliable 
rates have been obtained, but in some parts of the river it is about 1 
mile an hour; in lake St. Peter about f mile an hour; and in St. 
Marys rapid about 6 to 7 miles an hour. It is usually greater in 
spring than at other times of the year. 

The river St. Lawrence, at just above the entrance of Chaudiere 
river (which is on the southern shore 5 miles above Quebec), is rather 
less than 800 yards wide, between steep, high, and partly wooded 
banks, composed of graywacke and slate rocks, and of great beauty. 
The channel of the river is farther reduced at low water by rocky 
shoals, which dry out from the shore on either side. The breadth of 
the stream is then only 575 yards, but the depth is nearly 30 fathoms, 
and the rate of the ebb stream about 6 knots, and that of the flood 5 
knots. 

Sault pass.—This narrow pass is called the Sault; and it is here 
that the drift ice packs and forms an ice bridge, over which a sleigh 
road is made almost every winter. In this chapter no effort is made 
to describe the banks of the river, the numerous islands, villages, 
and settlements. There are so many that their description would be 


512 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 


impracticable and it is entirely unnecessary, as the seaman visiting 
the St. Lawrence river will be concerned only with the principal ports. 
Therefore the aids to navigation and channels are the only things 
described. 

Kailway bridge. —A railway bridge is built across the river at 
the Sault pass and about 670 yards westward of Chaudiere river 
mouth. There is a clear headway under the bridge of 150 feet at 
ordinary high water for a width of 1,200 feet. The cantilever piers 
stand on the edge of the deep water channel on both sides of the river, 
and are 1,800 feet apart. Vessels should keep in mid-channel under 
the bridge. 

Lights. —A fixed white light is exhibited at 35 feet above high 
water from each of the cantilever piers of the bridge, and they should 
be seen, in clear weather, a distance of about 2 miles. 

Anchorage. —There is excellent anchorage off Carouge (cap 
Rouge), on the northern shore, about 2 miles above Sault pass. 

The river from abreast Carouge expands into a reach from 2 to 
2J miles wide, which extends westward for some 20 miles. The high 
and steep banks on either side form occasionally precipitous head¬ 
lands, while the fields and houses of the peasantry, and the villages, 
6 to 7 miles apart, with their stone churches and tinned steeples, often 
situated on the projecting points and headlands, afford altogether 
scenery of considerable beauty. 

There are no difficulties in the navigation, even for large ships, as 
high up as Portneuf, which is on the northern shore, 32 miles above 
Quebec. 

Point a Basile range lights. —A square white lighthouse with 
a red lantern, 49 feet high, on point a Basile, on the southern shore 
of the river opposite Carouge, exhibits, at 93 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, which should be seen, in clear weather, a distance 
of 15 miles. 

A square open framework lighthouse with sloping sides, and 
wooden slats toward the front lighthouse, painted white, with a red 
lantern, and 32 feet high, at 79°, 1,367 yards from the preceding light, 
exhibits, at 200 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen on the range line from a distance of 14 miles. 

These two lights in line form a range for descending the river, and 
in descending vessels should bring them in line, 79°, when abreast 
of Frechettes islands and keep the range on until Confederation point 
is abeam. 

In ascending, vessels should pick up the back range when Confed¬ 
eration point is abeam and carry it to Frechettes islands. 


SEMAPHORE SIGNALS. 


513 


St. Augustin shoal extends off the northern shore of the river 
at 5 to 6 miles above point a Basile. The navigable channel over its 
southern part or bar has been dredged to a depth of 27 feet at ex¬ 
treme low water, and Point a Basile lighthouses in line astern, 79°, 
lead through the fairway. This is the shallowest part of the river 
between Quebec and Montreal, and vessels of heavy draft should not 
pass it at extreme low water. 

St. Augustine Shoal lightbuoy. —A black cylindrical gas buoy, 
No. 15 Q, with a domed top, carrying a lantern on a framework, 9^ 
feet above the water, is moored off point Nicholas at the lower end 
of St. Augustin shoal. The buoy shows an intermittent white light 
every 6 seconds, thus: Light 4 seconds, eclipsed 2 seconds, visible 8 
miles. 

Semaphore. —A semaphore is placed on point Nicholas to indi¬ 
cate the depth of water in the channel over St. Augustin bar. 

Semaphore signals, showing depth of water in feet. 


Looking up stream. 
21 22 23 24 25 26 


27 28 


i-rrrtrt 


29 


30 31 


32 


33 


34 


35 



AL. 



The lower arm indicates inches to be 
added to the feet shown by the upper arm. 

Ball at head of flagpole indicates rising 
tide. 


/ 






50918—08-33 







514 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO‘ MONTREAL. 

Looking downstream . 

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 

limit t 

29 30 31 32 33 34 35 ' 

1 ttt ttf 

23' 3" 23' 6" 23' 9" 

The lower arm indicates inches to be 
added to the feet shown by the upper arm. 

Ball at head of flagpole indicates rising 
tide. 

Tides.—It is high water at St. Augustin shoal at 45 minutes 
before high water at St. Croix, and low water at the shoal at 65 min¬ 
utes before low water at St. Croix. 

Trembles shoals, together with les Ecureuils (Paget) bank, 
commence at about 16 miles above Quebec and extend westward 
along the northern shore of the river for about 8 miles up the river, 
leaving a channel between the shoals and bank and the southern shore, 
in some places only 800 yards wide. 

Trembles Shoal lightbuoy, situated in 7 fathoms water on the 
southeastern side of the shoal and about 1J miles southeastward from 
Point aux Trembles church, is a red cylindrical buoy, No. 24 Q, with 
a domed top carrying a lantern on an open-work frame 94 feet above 
the water, and exhibits an intermittent white light every 12 seconds, 
thus: Light, 7 seconds; eclipse, 5 seconds; visible 8 miles. 

St. Antoine range lights.—The front lighthouse of the down¬ 
stream range and the rear lighthouse of the upstream range is a 
brown, square, skeleton tower, with an inclosed white upper part and 
a red lantern roof, 65 feet high, on a black cribwork pier situated on 
the eastern side of St. Antoine point on the southern side of the river; 



DIRECTIONS—ST. CROIX BAR. 


515 


and it exhibits, at 68 feet above high water, a fixed white light, vis¬ 
ible 9 miles. 

The back lighthouse of the downstream range is a similar tower, 
situated 228°, 275 yards from the front lighthouse of the downstream 
range, and it exhibits, at 208 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, visible 16 miles. 

The front lighthouse of the upstream range is white, square, with a 
red roof, and 30 feet high; it is situated on the western side of St. 
Antoine point, and it exhibits, at 36 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, visible 6 miles on the range line. 

Directions. —Vessels leaving Quebec should steer in mid-chan¬ 
nel about 195° until abreast Princes pier on the eastern shore of the 
river; then 226° to within about £■ mile of the railway bridge. At 
this point change course to 247° and steer that course through Sault 
pass and until Point a Basile range comes nearly on astern. Get 
that range and keep it to Frechettes islands near the northern bank 
of the river, steering 259°. When leaving the alignment of Point a 
Basile lighthouses, take that of St. Antoine downstream lighthouses, 
228°; after passing Trembles Shoal lightbuoy steer to pass about 200 
yards southward of lightbuoy No. 28 Q, and about the same distance 
northward of black can buoy No. 27 Q moored near the edge of the 
shoal to the westward of point St. Antoine, and then steer about 
238° until St. Antoine upstream lighthouses are in line astern, 71°, 
when steer on that range until past red buoy No. 32 Q. 

Point St. Antoine lightbuoy. —A red cylindrical lightbuoy, 
No. 28 Q, showing an intermittent white light, is moored on the 
northern side of the channel off point St. Antoine. 

St. Croix bar is about § mile westward of the western part of les 
Ecureuils bank; a channel 500 feet wide has been dredged over the 
bar to the depth of 29 feet. 

St. Croix lightbuoy. —A red cylindrical gas buoy, No. 34 Q, 
showing an intermittent white light, is moored at the southeastern 
end of the cutting over St. Croix bar. 

St. Croix Bar range lights. —Two square white lighthouses with 
red lantern roofs are situated upon the high south bank of the river, 
the front one, 23 feet high, at about 100 yards from the shore, and 1.7 
miles eastward from St. Croix village, and the rear lighthouse, 54 
feet high, at 115°, 470 yards from the front lighthouse. Each ex¬ 
hibits a fixed white light, visible 8 miles, the front light being 186 
feet and the rear light 238 feet above high water. The lights in 
line, 115°, lead through St. Croix Bar dredged channel. The front 
light is visible over a small arc on the line of the dredged channel, 
and also downstream from the northeastward. The rear light is 
visible in the direction of the range line. 


516 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

The distance from the alignment of the leading lights to the edge 
of the middle ground on the southwestern side of the channel is only 
250 feet. Great caution is therefore necessary in navigating this 
channel. 

St. Croix light. —A square white lighthouse, 41 feet high, on the 
shore, near high water mark, at about J mile northward of St. Croix 
church, exhibits, at 41 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
visible 6 miles. 

The river from St. Croix bar continues northwestward for about 
4J miles to Platon point; then turns sharply southwestward around 
a shoal extending 1J miles westward from the point. This shoal 
is composed of shale covered with mud and strewn with bowlders 
and rocky patches that cover at high water. The turn of the river 
around Platon point forms a large peninsula of which the point is 
the northern extremity. 

Two obstructing shoals off cape Sante have been deepened, for a 
width of 500 feet, to 29 feet at extreme low water. 

Platon Point lightbuoy. —A black cylindrical gas buoy, No. 49 Q, 
is moored in 5 fathoms, on the edge of the shoal water at about 800 
yards northwestward of the outer end of Platon wharf, and it ex¬ 
hibits an intermittent white light, visible 4 miles. 

This buoy marks the turn of the channel off Platon point, but the 
light must not be depended on. 

Portneuf village is situated on the northern shore of the river 
northwestward from Platon point. It has paper, saw, flour, and card¬ 
ing mills, and a nail factory. 

Directions. —As soon as buoy No. 32 Q is passed, steer about 266° 
in order to run onto the range line of St. Croix Bar lights, 200 yards 
southward of lightbuoy No. 34 Q. Get the back range as accurately 
and as quickly as possible, and keep on it across the bar. The range 
may also be kept up to the turn around Platon point. Keep it on until 
Platon Point lightbuoy No. 49 Q bears 243°, when steer about 264° 
for the range line of the Portneuf lights, being very careful not to 
cross the range line. Get on this range accurately as soon as possible 
and hold it to its intersection with the Lotbiniere range. 

Richelieu rapid, the first great difficulty in the navigation, com¬ 
mences just above Portneuf and extends nearly to Grondine, a dis¬ 
tance of about 7 miles southwestward. In the narrowest part of the 
rapid the channel runs between extensive shoals formed of bowlders, 
and is only 460 yards wide at low water. The water is 7 to 10 fath¬ 
oms in depth, except on Boulard bar, situated about 1| miles above 
Richelieu island, where a channel has been dredged to the depth of 
29 feet for a width of 500 feet. The flood stream has a rate of J knot 
and it lasts for only about 1 hour, while the ebb runs at the rate of 


RANGE LIGHTS. 


517 


7 knots at springs. The pass is therefore difficult and dangerous, and 
steamers depart from Quebec at such times as to arrive at the foot of 
Richelieu rapid with the flood stream. 

Portneuf range lights.—On the northern shore of the river, on the 
rising ground at about f mile eastward of Portneuf, is a white light¬ 
house consisting of a dwelling with a lantern on its roof, 30 feet high; 
and at 28°, 180 yards from it, is a white lighthouse, 26 feet high; 
each exhibits a fixed white light, the front light being 120 feet, and 
the rear light 200 feet above high water, both visible 5 miles. 

These lights in line astern 28° lead through the northeastern portion 
of Richelieu channel to the alignment of Lotbiniere lights. 

Richelieu Island light.—A white octagonal lighthouse, 35 feet 
high, on the middle of the island, exhibits, at 27 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, visible 6 miles. 

Lotbiniere range lights.—On the southern shore, about 2J miles 
above Richelieu island, is a square white lighthouse with a red roof, 
17 feet high, and there is a similar lighthouse, bearing 222°, 950 
yards from it. Each exhibits a fixed white light, the front at 23 feet 
and the rear at 85 feet above high water, and they are visible 8 and 
10 miles, respectively. 

These lights in line 222° lead through Richelieu rapid from the 
alignment of Portneuf lights to that of Boulard Bar lights. 

Boulard Bar range lights.—On Richelieu Island reef, about 400 
yards, 6° from the island, is a white octagonal lighthouse, 42 feet 
high, on a red-brown circular pier and with a red lantern, which ex¬ 
hibits, at 40 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 9 miles. 

On the edge of the cliff, at about 1.4 miles above Platon point, is a 
red square skeleton tower, with a white slat work on the upper portion 
of its side facing the channel, and an inclosed white upper part, 61 
feet high, which exhibits, at 160 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, visible over a small arc in the direction of the range line a 
distance of 11 miles. 

These lights in line astern 53° lead from the alignment of Lot¬ 
biniere lights through the middle of the dredged channel across Bou¬ 
lard bar nearly up to Batture Simon lightbuoy No. 68 Q. 

Platon range lights.—Two white lighthouses, in line bearing 55° 
and 169 yards apart, each with a black vertical stripe on the side 
facing the channel, on the southern shore, about 14 miles below Riche¬ 
lieu island, exhibit, at 130 and 152 feet above high water, fixed white 
lights, visible 12 miles, but they do not lead through the dredged 
channel, and mariners must not be guided by them. 

Batture Simon lightbuoy.—A red spar gas-buoy, with an open 
conical topmark, No. 68 Q, is moored at the southern end of batture 
Simon, and exhibits an intermittent white light, visible 4 miles. 


518 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

Light.—A square white lighthouse, 8 feet high, on Langlais point, 
on the southern shore, f mile below Great Chene river, exhibits, at 35 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 5 miles. 

Leading mark.—From southeastward of Batture Simon light- 
buoy, Lotbiniere church and an elm tree in line astern 61° leads 
to the alignment of Cape Charles lighthouses. 

Horseback bar is southeastward of Grondine, and a channel has 
been dredged through it to the depth of 27J feet for a width of 300 
feet. 

Horseback Bar lightbuoys, Nos. 73 Q and 77 Q, moored at 
each end of Horseback Bar dredged channel, are black spar gas buoys, 
and each exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Grondine point is a low forked point extending southward 
from the northern shore of the river. From the point shoals extend 
southward and westward, those extending southward nearly meeting 
the shoals on the southern shore. A channel has been dredged 
through the shoals. Southward of the point the river turns west. 

Cape Charles range lights.—A white polygonal lighthouse, 12 
feet high, on cape Charles, southern shore of the river, exhibits, at 
92 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen 6 
miles. This is the front lighthouse. 

A red square skeleton lighthouse, with an inclosed white upper 
part, 61 feet high, at 232°, 417 yards from the preceding lighthouse, 
exhibits, at 145 feet above high water, a fixed white light, which 
should be seen 12 miles. This is the back lighthouse. 

These lights form St. Charles lower range and in line lead through 
the middle of the dredged channel over Horseback bar from below 
black buoy No. 73 Q, to the alignment of Ste. Emilie range lights. 

An additional fixed white light is exhibited from a mast at 96° 
80 yards from the front lighthouse, in line with which light it leads 
between cape a la Roche and cape Charles. This forms St. Charles 
upper range. 

The channel from about 1 mile above Horseback bar, runs through 
cuttings with a minimum width of 300 feet and a depth of 27^ feet for 
about 7 miles. 

Lightbuoy No. 80 Q, moored at the lower end of cape Charles 
dredged channel, is a red spar gas buoy, which exhibits an intermit¬ 
tent white light. 

Directions.—After getting on Lotbiniere range, keep on it until 
Boulard Bar range is coming on astern. Bring that range on and 
steer on it across the bar and in the channel until Deschambault 
point bears about 40°, when steer so as to bring that point and the 
slope of the mountain northeastward of it in line, bearing 42°. 


RANGE LIGHTS. 


519 


Keep this range on until nearly abreast lightbuoy No. 68 Q, when 
Lotbiniere church and an elm tree southwestward of it will be nearly 
in ra,nge astern. Bring this back range on and keep it until Cape 
Charles lower range is nearly on; bring this range-on and steer on it 
through the dredged channel over Horseback bar nearly to Ste. 
Emilie range line. 

Ste. Emilie—Range lights.—A square white lighthouse with a 
red vertical stripe facing the range line on its western side, 30 feet 
high, on top of a bank on the southern shore to the southward of 
Grondine, 1 mile above the village of Ste. Emilie, exhibits, at 114 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible 16 miles on the range 
line. 

A similar lighthouse, at 93°, 1,140 yards from the preceding light¬ 
house, exhibits, at 131 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
visible 16 miles in all directions of approach. 

These lights in line astern 93°, lead midway between buoys Nos. 
79 and 80 Q, off cape Charles to the curve of cape a la Roche. 

Lightbuoy No. 90 Q, moored in the middle of cape a la Roche 
curve, is a red spar gas buoy, which exhibits an intermittent white 
light. 

Semaphore.—A semaphore stands at about \ mile westward of 
Cape a la Roche church to indicate the depth of water in Cape a la 
Roche dredged channel. (For signals, see p. 513.) 

Grondine Point range lights.—The front lighthouse, a square 
red skeleton tower, 29 feet high, on Grondine point, exhibits, at 33 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 7 miles on the range 
line. 

The rear lighthouse, a square white building, 61 feet high, situated 
67°, nearly 1.4 miles from the front lighthouse, exhibits, at 66 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible 8 miles on the range line. 

Lightbuoy No. 97 Q, moored at the upper end of Cape a la Roche 
dredged channel, is a black steel spar buoy, exhibiting an intermittent 
white light. 

Grondine upper range lights.—The front lighthouse, a square 
white building, 18 feet high, situated on the northern shore of the 
river at 1.4 miles northwestward of Grondine point, exhibits, at 28 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 8 miles on the range 
line. 

The rear lighthouse, a square white building, 40 feet high, situated 
45°, 1.1 miles nearly from the front lighthouse, exhibits, at 68 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible 9 miles on the range line. 

The river at cape a la Roche, 2 miles below Grondine point, turns 
southwestward for 6 miles to Batiscan river on the northern shore. 
For most of this distance the channel is toward the southern shore, 


520 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 


but just below Batiscan river it shifts to the northern shore. Much 
of the distance runs through dredged channels. 

Ste. Anne shoals extend southward and southeastward from Ste. 
Anne river on the northern shore toward cape Levrard on the south¬ 
ern shore. Between the 18-foot lines on each side the channel is 400 
yards wide, but in its narrowest part the water is deep. 

Lightbuoys.—No. 107 Q gas buoy, moored off cape Levrard, is 
a black spar buoy, surmounted by a lantern exhibiting an intermittent 
white light. 

No. 110 Q gas buoy, moored at the turn above cape Levrard, is a 
similar red buoy, showing an intermittent white light. 

No. 117 Q gas buoy, moored at the upper end of Batiscan dredged 
channel, is a similar black buoy, exhibiting an intermittent white 
light. 

St. Pierre des Becquets light.—A white octagonal lighthouse, 30 
feet high, on the summit of St. Pierre point, on the southern shore, 
at about 5£ miles above cape a la Roche, exhibits, at 85 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light, which should be seen 5 miles. 

Batiscan range lights.—The front lighthouse, white, octagonal, 
and 18 feet high, on the northern shore of the river, westward of 
St. Pierre point, exhibits, at 20 feet above high water, a fixed wdiite 
light, visible 4 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, white, octagonal, and 36 feet high, at 240°, 
683 yards from the front lighthouse, exhibits, at 42 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light, visible 4 miles. 

Anchorage.—There is good anchorage off the village of Batiscan, 
about £ mile westward of lightbuoy No. 123 Q. 

Directions.—Proceeding upward, with Ste. Emilie range lights 
in line astern 93°, leave that line and take that of Grondine point 
range lights astern 67° at cape a la Roche bend, making the turn 
after passing buoys Nos. 87 Q and 88 Q, and completing it before 
reaching buoys Nos. 91 Q and 92 Q. Keep the alignment of Grondine 
Point lights until past buoy No. 97 Q, when gradually turn into the 
alignment of Grondine upper range lights astern 45° (the channel is 
wide at this bend), and keep this alignment until opposite lightbuoy 
No. 110 Q, when turn and bring Batiscan range lights into line 
240°, taking care not to run past their alignment. Keep Batiscan 
lights in line until past buoys Nos. 117 Q and 118 Q, then turn south- 
westward with Batiscan church and the pine trees to the southwest- 
ward in line, and pass through the cutting marked by buoy No. 
119 Q. 

The river above buoy No. 119 Q turns southward for about 4 miles 
to abreast Citrouille point, and there is one cutting off Batiscan. The 


LIGHTBUOYS—RANGE LIGHTS. 521 

channel continues on the northern and western sides; on the southern 
side shoals fringe the bank for \ to 1J miles. 

Lightbuoys.—No. 123 Q gas buoy, moored at the lower end of 
Batiscan anchorage, is a black spar, and it exhibits an intermittent 
white light. 

No. 129 Q gas buoy, moored at the lower end of Batture Perron 
cutting, off Batiscan, is a black spar, and it exhibits an intermittent 
white light. 

Citrouille Point light.—A square white lighthouse, with a red 
lantern on the middle of its roof, 41 feet high, on a pier on the beach 
at Citrouille or Champlain point, exhibits, at 40 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, visible 11 miles. 

Gentilly range lights.—The front lighthouse is a square white 
building, surmounted by a square white lantern with a red roof, the 
whole being 23 feet high, situated on a concrete pier 29 feet high, on 
the flats a little more than 1-| miles, 18° from Gentilly church. It 
exhibits at 45 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in 
the line of range 7 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is an open framework square tower painted 
brown, but with an inclosed watch room painted white, and sur¬ 
mounted by a white lantern having a red roof, and with the upper 
part of the framework, facing the channel, covered with white slat 
work. The whole building is 81 feet high, situated 1J miles 198° 
from the preceding light, and exhibits at 101 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, visible in the line of range 8 miles. 

These two lights in line 198° lead through the dredged 30-foot 
channel from the bend just above buoy No. 119 Q to the bend at 
Batture Perron southeastward of Batiscan village. 

The river at Citrouille point takes a westerly direction for about 
3J miles to Champlain village, and thence a southwesterly direction 
for 10 miles to Three Rivers. There is a cutting, 27^ feet deep, 
through Pouillier Grandmont, about f mile southwestward of Cit¬ 
rouille point; and there is also a cutting Pouillier Carpentier, off 
Champlain village. 

Citrouille Point lightbuoy No. 2 C, moored at the lower end of 
Pouillier Grandmont cutting, is a red spar, and exhibits an inter¬ 
mittent white light. 

Champlain upper range lights.—The front lighthouse is a 
square white building, lantern roof red, 30 feet high, situated about 
f mile above Champlain Village church, and exhibits, at 40 feet above 
high water, a fixed white light visible in the line of range, 6 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a square brown skeleton tower with white 
si at work on upper portion of side facing channel and a white in- 


522 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

closed watch room, lantern roof red. It is 95 feet high and situated 
265° from the front lighthouse, and exhibits, at 109 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light visible in the range line, 6 miles. 

These two lights in line 265° lead through the 30-foot channel 
from buoy No. 2 C to just above buoy No. 16 C off Champlain. 

The river.—Champlain and Gentilly villages are opposite each 
other and about 3 miles apart. Gentilly shoal occupies nearly all the 
southern portion of the river between them. A considerable change 
takes place here in the character of the country, for the high banks, 
which form the southern shore of the river westward from opposite 
Quebec, turn inland and the shores on both sides become low and of 
an alluvial appearance. A channel 450 feet wide and 30 feet deep 
has been dredged from Bigot island situated southwestward of 
Champlain to Becancour bend. 

Pouillier Carpentier lightbuoy No. 15 C, moored at the upper 
end of the cutting above Pouillier Carpentier, is a black spar gas 
buoy, and it exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Champlain range lights.—The front lighthouse, square, white, 
and 23 feet high, surmounted by a white octagonal lantern, situated 
300 yards above Champlain church, exhibits, at 34 feet above high 
water, a fixed white light visible in the line of range, 4 miles. The 
rear lighthouse is a brown square skeleton tower with white slat 
work on upper portion of side facing range line, white inclosed watch 
room, and white lantern with a red roof. The whole structure is 92 
feet high, situated 40°, 675 yards from the front lighthouse, and 
exhibits a fixed white light visible in the range line, 4 miles. 

These lights in line astern 40° lead through the dredged channel 
from above buoy No. 16 C to buoy No. 20 C, southeastward of Bigot 
island. 

Bigot Island lightbuoy No. 20 C, moored to the southeastward 
of Bigot island, is a red spar gas buoy, and it exhibits an intermittent 
white light. 

Becancour range lights.--Two white fixed range lights, visible 
in the range line a distance of 6 miles, are shown to the southward 
of Becancour point. The front light is shown from a white, square 
building 34 feet high situated on the flats near the western entrance 
to the Becancour river. The rear light is showrn from a red steel 
skeleton tower with white slatwork facing range line, 63 feet high, 
situated 1.1 miles 229° from the front light. 

These two lights in line, 229°, lead through the dredged channel 
from just above buoy No. 20 C to Becancour bend at buoy No. 30 C. 

Lightbuoy No. 23 C, situated a little more than £ mile south¬ 
ward of the western end of Bigot island, is black and exhibits an 
intermittent white light. 


DIRECTIONS-RANGE LIGHTS. 523 

Lightbuoy No. 30 C, on the northeastern side of batture Fran- 
coeur, is a red spar and exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Directions.—From buoy No. 119 Q (see p. 520) swing to the south¬ 
ward and pick up Gentilly range. Get on the range and keep on it 
until abreast buoy No. 132 Q, southeastward of Batiscan village, 
when steer 204° until Citrouille Point light bears 323°. Then haul 
to the westward and get on Champlain upper range; be careful not 
to cross the range line; and in hauling around Citrouille point to get 
on the range keep pointed as nearly as possible between buoys No. 2 C 
and No. 1 C, No. 2 C being a lightbuoy. When on the range keep 
on it until past buoys No. 15 C and No. 16 C. 

After passing buoys Nos. 15 C and 16 C, bend toward buoy No. 
IT C, and when Champlain range lights are brought in line astern 
steer 220° with the range on astern nearly up to lightbuoy No. 20 C. 
From buoy No. 20 C steer 229°, with the Becancour lighthouses in 
line, past buoys Nos. 23 C, 25 C, and 27 C. Now steer round batture 
Francoeur, marked by red lightbuoy No. 30 C and red spar buoy 
No. 34 C, and get quickly on the following range: 

Cape Madeleine range lights.—Two white fixed range lights, 
visible on the range line a distance of 4 miles, are shown from the 
northern part of cape Madeleine. The front light is shown from a 
white, square, wooden building, 23 feet high, 680 yards 35° from 
Cape Madeleine steeple. The rear light is shown from a brown, 
square, steel framework tower, 63 feet high, with white wood slat 
work on upper portion of side facing channel, white inclosed upper 
part, lantern roof red, which is situated 257°, 750 yards from the 
front light. 

These two lights in line 257° lead through Becancour traverse. 

Cape Madeleine lower range lights.—The front lighthouse is a 
white square building, with white octagonal lantern having a red 
roof, all 30 feet high, situated 400 feet from the river bank on north¬ 
ern shore 2^ miles below Cape Madeleine church, and it exhibits, at 
51 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in range line 
7 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a square, brown, steel skeleton tower, with 
white wooden slat work on upper portion of side facing channel, 
white inclosed upper part, red roof on lantern, all 87 feet high, 
situated 935 yards 43° from front light, and it exhibits, at 108 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the range line 
7 miles. 

These two lights in line, bearing 43°, a back range, when ascending 
the river lead through the channel from a point abreast Cape Made¬ 
leine Village front light to the bend at the red spar buoy No. 54 C. 


524 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

Cape Madeleine upper range lights.—This range should not be 
used by vessels, and is mentioned here simply to prevent its being 
mistaken for the village or the lower range. 

The front lighthouse is situated near the river bank 2 miles below 
the cape, and is a white octagonal building, 16 feet high, which ex¬ 
hibits, at 40 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the 
line of range 6 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a white octagonal building, 40 feet high, 
situated 285 yards 249° from the front lighthouse, and exhibits, at 
55 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the line of 
range 6 miles. 

These two lights in line are used to clear Provencher shoal, using 
the north channel, but they are not used in ordinary navigation of 
the river. 

Lightbuoy No. 39 C, at the western end of Becancour traverse, 
is a black spar and exhibits an intermittent white light. 

The river channel from lightbuoy No. 39 C passes between Tau- 
reau shoal, on which there is a depth of 19 feet, and a shoal south¬ 
ward of it, and continues southwestward to Three Rivers. 

Lightbuoy No. 43 C, situated eastward of Cape Madeleine front 
light, is a black spar and exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Lightbuoy No. 55 C, situated southeastward of Cochon island, 
is black and exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Three Rivers shoal lies about 400 yards off the town and extends 
a little more than J mile northeast and southwest, with a width of 
300 yards; the ship channel passes on its northwestern side, which is 
marked by black spar buoy No. 57 C, on the northern edge of the 
shoal, and by black lightbuoy No. 59 C, which exhibits an inter¬ 
mittent white light, on its upper end. 

Three Rivers town, the capital of St. Maurice county and one of 
the oldest towns in the province, being founded in 1618, is situated 
on the north shore of the St. Lawrence and on the southwestern side 
of the entrance of St. Maurice river. It contains a Roman Catholic 
cathedral, several churches, a college, a convent, two banks, two 
printing offices, and supports two weekly newspapers. Its population 
in 1901 was 9,981. 

Trade.—The principal exports are lumber, wood pulp, and paper. 
The Laurentide company at Grande Mere, near Three Rivers, are 
making 125 tons of paper and 50 tons of cardboard from wood pulp 
daily. 

Wharves.—There is a depth of 30 feet at the wharves, where there 
are facilities for loading and unloading. There is a deep-water wharf 
with a frontage of 1,968 feet on the river side and an ice breaker of 
timber at its upper end to afford protection from ice. 


THREE RIVERS TOWN—LAKE ST. PETER. 525 

Communication.—Three Rivers town is connected with Quebec 
and Montreal by the North Shore (Canadian Pacific) railway, and 
Doucet, on the opposite shore of the river, is connected to Arthabaska 
by a branch of the Grand Trunk, the main line of which touches 
Arthabaska. The Richelieu and Ontario company’s steamers, run¬ 
ning between Quebec and Montreal, call daily. 

The river from Three Rivers takes south-southwesterty and south¬ 
westerly directions for 5J miles, above which the channel, part of it 
dredged, passes between Force and Iron shoals, on the north, and 
Outardes shoal on the south, for 1 mile into lake St. Peter. 

Port St. Francis range lights.—The front lighthouse, a white, 
octagonal building, 18 feet high, is situated on St. Francis wharf, at 
about 5J miles above Three Rivers town, and it exhibits, at 14 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light visible 4 miles on the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, a brown, square, skeleton tower, with white 
slat work on its western side, 31 feet high, on a pier 62°, 183 yards 
from the preceding lighthouse, exhibits, at 36 feet above high water, 
a fixed white light, visible 11 miles from all directions of approach. 

These lights in line lead from southward of Force shoal to south¬ 
ward of Iron shoal. 

Lightbuoy No. 6 L, moored southward of Force shoal, is a red 
spar buoy showing on intermittent white light. 

Lake St. Peter.—The distance up this lake from point du Lac, 
which is westward 1.9 miles from Port St. Francis wharf, to Riche¬ 
lieu islands is about 18 miles, of which about 4 miles are over a flat 
of sand and clay, on which there is a depth of lflj feet at the low 
w r ater in autumn. A ship channel, 450 feet wide, with a depth of 30 
feet in it at ordinary low water, has been dredged through the lake. 

Nicolet traverse commences at about 1,200 yards westward from 
buoy No. 10 L, and it is about 1 mile in length, whence the channel 
turns to a direction westward of southwest through the lower pool. 

Nicolet range lights.—The front lighthouse is a white, square 
building on a pier situated on the flats on the east side of the mouth 
of the river Nicolet; the building is 19 feet high, and exhibits, at 45 
feet above high water, a fixed white light visible in the line of range 
4 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a brown, square skeleton tower, with white 
wooden slat work on upper portion of side facing the channel, sur¬ 
mounted by white wooden watch room, and octagonal lantern. The 
building is 82 feet high, situated 1,417 yards, 108° from the front 
light, and exhibits, at 96 feet above high water, a fixed white light 
visible in the line of range 5 miles. 


526 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

The two lights in line lead through the dredged channel in Nicolet 
Traverse on a course 288° from black gas buoy No. 13 L to black gas 
buoy No. 17 L. 

Nicolet Traverse lightbuoys.—No. 13 L is a black cylindrical 
buoy, moored at the lower end of Nicolet traverse and showing an 
intermittent white light. 

No. 17 L is a similar buoy showing a similar light and moored at 
the upper end of the traverse. 

Point du Lac range lights. —The front lighthouse is a square 
white building with a red roof, surmounted by a red lantern, the 
whole 27 feet high, situated on a pier on the northern edge of the 
curve in lake St. Peter above Point du Lac, and exhibits at 45 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible 12 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a brown, square skeleton steel tower, sur¬ 
mounted by an inclosed white watch room and a red lantern, all 
102 feet high, situated 55°, 1J miles from the front light, and ex¬ 
hibits, at 137 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 17 
miles. 

The lights in line astern bearing 55° lead from the curve in lake 
St. Peter, above Point du Lac, to lightbuoy No. 57 L, at Yamachiche 
bend. 

Lightbuoy No. 25 L is a black steel cylindrical buoy, moored at 
the upper end of the curve just above Point du Lac, showing an in¬ 
termittent white light. 

Lightbuoy No. 41 L is a black steel cylindrical buoy showing an 
intermittent white light, moored on the southeastern side of the cut, 
opposite Yamachiche point. 

Yamachiche Bend lightbuoy No. 57 L is a black cylindrical 
gas buoy, which shows an intermittent white light, thus: Light, 10 
seconds; eclipse, 10 seconds; moored at Yamachiche bend, with Ya¬ 
machiche church bearing 351° distant 4.3 miles. 

Anchorage. —Anchorage for the accommodation of heavy draft 
vessels has been formed by widening the curve opposite the light¬ 
buoy No. 57 L. For a distance of 2,800 feet on each side of the 
lightbuoy the channel is dredged to a depth of 30 feet, lowest water 
of 1897, and to a width of 450 feet at the extremities, gradually in¬ 
creasing to 800 feet opposite the lightbuoy, the northern boundary 
of the dredged triangle being a tangent 5,600 feet long. Buoys 
mark the limits of the anchorage, red spar buoy No. 56 L being 
moored 800 feet opposite the lightbuoy. 

Lightbuoy No. 79 L is a black cylindrical buoy showing an 
intermittent white light, moored at the lower end of curve No. 2, 
marking the point to leave Lake St. Peter downstream range and 
take the curve to get on curve No. 2 upstream range. • 


LAKE ST. PETEK. 


527 


Lake St. Peter Curve No. 2 range lights. —The front light¬ 
house, common to two ranges, the downstream and the upstream, 
is a red octagonal lantern rising from red roof of a square white 
dwelling, on a pier 2.2 miles south-southeastward of the mouth of 
riviere du Loup. The building is 28 feet high and exhibits, at 49 
feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 6 miles. 

The rear lighthouse of the downstream range is a red, square, skel¬ 
eton tower rising from the walls of a white dwelling standing on a 
pier 667 yards, 248°, from the front lighthouse, the whole surmounted 
by a red octagonal lantern. The whole building is 73 feet high and 
exhibits, at 94 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 6 
miles. 

These two lights in line, 248°, lead from lightbuoy No. 57 L to 
lightbuoy No. 79 L. 

The rear lighthouse of the upstream range is an exactly similar 
structure to the rear lighthouse of the downstream range, and it 
exhibits, at 94 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 6 
miles. It is situated 42°, 667 yards from the front lighthouse. 

This light in line astern with the front light bearing 42° leads from 
lightbuoy No. 85 L at the upper end of curve No. 2 to the intersec¬ 
tion of the range line with the range line of He aux Raisins range 
lights off West lightship No. 1. 

Louiseville range lights. —-A pole 20 feet high, with white dia¬ 
mond-shaped slatwork attached, situated on western side of riviere du 
Loup about \ mile above its mouth, exhibits, from a lantern 25 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible in line of range 6 miles. 

A similar pole, 40 feet high, situated 200 yards, 345°, from the 
front pole, exhibits, from a lantern 45 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light visible in the line of range 6 miles. 

The two lights in line, 345°, lead into riviere du Loup from lake St. 
Peter. 

Lightbuoy No. 85 L is a black, steel, cylindrical buoy showing 
an intermittent white light, moored at the upper end of curve No. 2, 
and marking the point where it is necessary to be on Lake St. Peter 
curve No. 2, upstream range. 

Lightbuoy No. 97 L is a black, steel, cylindrical buoy showing 
an intermittent white light, moored at the lower end of curve No. 1, 
where it is necessary to take the curve for getting on lie aux Raisins 
range. 

Lightbuoy No. 103 L is a black, steel, cylindrical buoy showing 
an intermittent white light, moored at the upper end of curve No. 1, 
where it is necessary to be on lie aux Raisins range. 

Western lightvessel No. 1, painted red with “ No. 1 ” in white 
letters on her sides, and having a white octagonal tower with a red 


528 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

lantern roof amidships, is moored at a bend of the channel, where the 
channel takes or leaves He aux Raisins range, and about 2.6 miles, 
223°, from Lake St. Peter Curve No. 2 range lights, and exhibits, at 
22 feet above high water, 2 fixed white lights, visible 9 miles. 

St. Francis River lights. —Two masts placed off the mouth of 
St. Francis river, the outer one being on the northeastern end of a 
low grassy islet, exhibit a fixed white and a fixed red light respec¬ 
tively, visible 4 miles, to guide vessels into the river. 

lie aux Raisins range lights.— The front lighthouse, on a pier 
on the northern side of the island, is white, square, surmounted by a 
square white lantern with a red roof and 22 feet high; it exhibits, at 
36 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 7 miles. 

The rear lighthouse on the southwestern side of the island at 191°, 
671 yards from the front light, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, 
surmounted by a white watch room and lantern, 85 feet high, which 
exhibits, at 86 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 7 
miles. 

The alignment of these lighthouses leads from Western light vessel 
through the dredged channel into deep water at the upper end of 
the lake. 

Directions (see p. 523).-—Proceeding through Becancour traverse 
on Cape Madeleine range, steer on the range 257° to lightbuoy No. 
39 C; and thence swing to the southward, keeping lightbuoy No. 
43 C on the port bow. When past this buoy, get on Cape Madeleine 
lower range astern and steer on it 223° to buoy No. 54 C east of isle 
aux Cochons. Leaving this buoy on the starboard hand, steer 236°, 
leaving buoy No. 57 C on the port hand. Thence steer past the town 
of Three Rivers, to leave buoy No. 59 C on the port hand, and from 
that buoy steer 209° until opposite Hanson point, when steer in mid- 
channel around the bend, and then continue in mid-channel 233°, 
pointed fairly between buoys No. 5 L and No. 6 L, the latter being 
a lightbuoy. When past buoy No. 6 L, get on Port St. Francis range, 
and keep the range on astern, steering 242° around Force shoal, 
leaving buoy No. 8 L on starboard hand, and steer for buoy No. 
13 L, keeping it a little on the port bow. By the time this buoy is 
reached get well on Nicolet back range and keep it on astern, steering 
287° through Nicolet traverse, nearly to buoy No. 20 L. Just before 
reaching this buoy steer to the southward, leaving buoys No. 19 L 
and No. 21 L on the port hand, and steering so as to bring Point 
du Lac range on astern above buoy No. 23 L. Keep the range on 
astern, steering 235° to lightbuoy No. 57 L, at Yamachiche bend. 
Leaving this buoy on the port hand, take Lake St. Peter curve No. 2, 
downstream range ahead, and keep it on a course 248° to lightbuoy 
No. 79 L, whence take the curve, keeping between the buoys, to light- 


RANGE LIGHTS. 


529 


buoy No. 85 L. Leaving this buoy on the port hand, bring on astern 
Lake St. Peter curve No. 2, upstream range, and keep it, steering 222° 
to lightbuov No. 97 L, whence take the curve, keeping between the 
buoys, and leaving the lightship on the starboard hand, to lightbupy 
No. 108 L. At this buoy take lie aux Raisins range 191° ahead, 
through the dredged channel at upper end of lake St. Peter. 

These directions must be followed closely, because the dredged 
channel is only 450 feet wide; therefore the ranges must be taken 
and left quickly. The channel is so well buoyed, however, that with 
ordinary care it is not easy to go wrong. 

The ship channel at the upper end of lake St. Peter passes 
northwestward of ile aux Raisins, between Stone and Boat islands, 
and southward of iles de Grace and St. Ignace. On the southern 
side of the channel and at 2J miles above isle de Grace is the town of 
Sorel. 

This and the succeeding parts of the navigation must be carefully 
attended to; the river is divided into numerous channels and the 
buoys and ranges are the only guides to the correct one. 

Anchorage.—There is limited anchorage space in 6 and 7 
fathoms, southeastward of Flat island, with black buoy No. 113 L 
bearing 144°, distant 300 yards, and Ile aux Raisins front light bear¬ 
ing 166°, distant f mile. 

Range lights —lie du Moine lower range. —The front light¬ 
house is a square white building surmounted by a lantern with a red 
roof, all 19 feet high and built on a pier 24 feet high, situated on 
Boat island (ile du Barques), about 1 mile from its eastern end. The 
lighthouse exhibits at 41 feet above high water a fixed white light, 
visible in the range line 10 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a square brown skeleton tower with white 
slat work on upper portion of side facing channel; white inclosed 
upper part, and lantern roof red, all 86 feet high. The tower stands 
on a pier 19 feet high, situated on ile du Moine, 219°, 3,230 yards 
from the front light, and exhibits, at 108 feet above high water, a 
fixed white light visible in the line of range 5 miles. 

These two lights in line 219° lead from the intersection of their 
range line with Ile aux Raisins range, i mile above lightbuoy No. 
Ill L, to the intersection of their range line with Gallia Bay upper 
range just above buoy No. 120 L. 

The rear light of this range is also the rear light of Ile du Moine 
upper range. 

Gallia Bay upper range. —The front lighthouse, a square white 
building, surmounted by a square white lantern, with a red roof, all 
19 feet high, standing on a pier, on the southern side of Stone island 


50918—08-34 


530 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

(ile a Lapierre), equidistant from its eastern and western ends, 
exhibits, at 41 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible, in 
the range line, 2 miles. 

The rear lighthouse is a white cylindrical steel tower, 5 feet in 
diameter, surmounted by a red square wooden lantern, all 52 feet 
high, standing on a concrete pier, 220 yards, 249°, from the front 
light, and it exhibits, at 73 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
visible, in the line of range, 2 miles. 

These lights in line, 249°, lead up from the intersection of their 
range line with that of Ile du Moine lower range, near buoy No. 
120 L, to the intersection of their range line with Gallia Bay lower 
range line just westward of light-buoy No. 123 L. 

Gallia Bay lower range. —The front lighthouse is a square white 
wooden building, surmounted by a square white lantern, with a red 
roof, all 19 feet high, standing on a concrete pier, on the southern 
side of Stone island, about 1 mile from its eastern end, and it exhibits, 
at 38 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible, in the line of 
range, 2 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, a white cylindrical steel tower, 5 feet in diam¬ 
eter, surmounted by a square red lantern, all 52 feet high, standing 
on a pier 200 yards, 30°, from the front light, exhibits, at 71 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible, in the range line 2 
miles. 

These lights in line 30° astern lead up from the intersection of- 
their range line with Gallia Bay upper range just west of lightbuoy 
No. 123 L, to the intersection of their range line with Ste. Anne de 
Sorel range at the bend off the southeastern point of ile a Lapierre. 

Ste. Anne de Sorel range. —The front lighthouse, a square white 
building surmounted by a square red lantern, all 19 feet high, stands 
on a concrete pier, on the southern shore of the St. Lawrence, about 
2J miles below Sorel, and exhibits, at 35 feet above high water, a fixed 
white light, visible, in the line of range 2 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, a brown square steel skeleton tower, with 
white wooden slat work on upper portion of side facing channel, 
white inclosed watch room, and lantern roof red, the whole being 80 
feet high, stands 723 j^ards, 235°, from the front lighthouse and ex¬ 
hibits at 98 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible, in the 
line of range 5 miles. 

These two lights in line, 235°, lead up from the intersection of 
their range line with Gallia Bay lower range, at the bend off the 
southeast point of ile a Lapierre, nearly to the intersection of their 
range line with Ile du Moine upper range near lightbuoy No. 136 L. 

lie du Moine upper range.— A square white building 21 feet 
high, surmounted by a square white lantern, standing on a square 


RANGE LIGHTS-LIGHTBUOYS. 


531 


concrete pier 25 feet high, on the southwestern end of ile du Moine, 
exhibits, at 43 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the 
line of range 5 miles. 

The rear light is a fixed white light, visible in the line of range 
5 miles, and is exhibited from a square brown skeleton tower standing 
530 yards, 83°, from the front lighthouse. It is also the rear light¬ 
house of Ile du Moine lower range, and is described on p. 529. 

These two lights in line astern 83° lead up through the dredged 
channel from the curve below Ste. Anne de Sorel at lightbuoy No. 
136 L to the intersection of their range line with Ile de Grace range 
at Nepigon Shoal lightbuoy No. 146 L. 

Ile de Grace range. —The front lighthouse, a square white build¬ 
ing having a steel frame sheathed with asbestos, surmounted by a 
square white lantern, all 19 feet high, standing on a square concrete 
pier with sloping sides, on the southern side of ile de Grace, exhibits, 
at 36 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the line of 
range 5 miles. 

The rear light is exhibited from a square brown skeleton tower, 
with white, wooden slatwork on upper portion of side facing chan¬ 
nel; white, inclosed watch room and a white, square lantern with a 
red roof, the whole 63 feet high. The tower stands on the south¬ 
eastern end of ile de Grace, 633 yards, 75°, from the front lighthouse, 
on a concrete pier with sloping sides and pointed upstream end. 
The light is fixed white, exhibited at 80 feet above high water, and 
visible in the range line 5 miles. 

These two lights in line astern 75° lead up from the intersection of 
their range line with Ile du Moine upper range at Nepigon Shoal 
lightbuoy No. 146 L to near the western end of ile St. Ignace, where 
the river turns abruptly southward. 

Lightbuoys.—No. Ill is a steel cylindrical buoy showing an 
intermittent white light, moored in lie aux Eaisins traverse near the 
intersection of Ile aux Eaisins range with Ile du Moine lower range. 

No. 123 L is a black steel spar showing an intermittent white 
light, moored off pointe aux Soldats, near the intersection of Gallia 
Bay upper and lower ranges. 

No. 136 L is a red steel spar showing an intermittent white 
light, moored southward of ile de Grace, northward of the intersec¬ 
tion of Ile du Moine upper and Ste. Anne de Sorel ranges. 

No. 146 L is a red steel spar showing an intermittent white 
light, moored on Nepigon shoal just north of the intersection of Ile de 
Grace and Ile du Moine upper ranges. 

Sorel town, on the right bank of Eichelieu river entrance, on the 
southern shore of the St. Lawrence, contains manufactories of en¬ 
gines, mill and agricultural machinery, leather, bricks, etc.; saw and 


532 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

grist mills; has two weekly newspapers, two banks, several hotels, 
three or four churches, and a number of stores. The population in 
1901 was 7,057. 

Sorel is connected with Montreal by the South Shore railway. A 
branch of the Canadian Pacific railroad ends at the town, and a rail¬ 
road runs from it to St. Hyacinthe, where there is a junction with 
the Grand Trunk railroad. 

Anchorage* —There is anchorage for heavy draft vessels off Sorel, 
to the southward of He de Grace range line, and either eastward or 
westward of Richelieu river entrance, the better position being to the 
eastward. 

Richelieu river flows past the western side of Sorel town into 
the St. Lawrence. At about 35 miles southward of its entrance it 
expands into Chambly basin, and at the head of the river, 80 miles 
from the entrance, is lake Champlain. The river forms an important 
part of the navigation between St. Lawrence and Hudson rivers. 

There is a depth of 4 to 5 fathoms for about 2 miles within the 
mouth of the river, and it is a good and safe place for vessels to win¬ 
ter in, and they are sometimes sent here from Montreal for that 
purpose. 

Range lights. —A fixed red gaslight is shown from each of two 
red, steel skeleton lighthouses, 35 and 50 feet high, on the wharves 
at Sorel and on the eastern side of the river’s mouth, which in line 
171° lead into the river, but through a channel suitable only for ves¬ 
sels of light draft. 

Range beacons. —Two diamond shaped beacons on the western 
side of the river’s mouth, in line bearing 203°, lead into the river in 
a least depth of 24 feet. 

Richelieu and Champlain navigation. —The system of navi¬ 
gation between river St. Lawrence and lake Champlain, commencing 
at Sorel, extends along Richelieu river, through St. Ours lock to 
Chambly basin, thence by Chambly canal to St. Johns, and down 
Richelieu river to lake Champlain. The southern end of lake Cham¬ 
plain is entered at Whitehall, and connection is obtained with Hudson 
river, by which the city of New York is directly reached. 

The distances are: Sorel to St. Ours lock, 14 miles; St. Ours lock to 
Chambly canal, 32 miles; Chambly canal, 12 miles; Chambly canal 
to U. S. boundary line, 23 miles; boundary line to Champlain canal, 
southern end of lake Champlain, 111 miles; Champlain canal to 
junction with Erie canal, 66 miles; Erie canal from junction to 
Albany, 7 miles; Albany to New York, via Hudson river, 146 miles; 
total distance, 411 miles. The above are statute miles. 

At St. Ours, Richelieu river is divided by a small island into two 
channels. St. Ours lock is in the eastern channel; it is 200 feet long, 


RANGE LIGHTS. 


533 


45 feet wide, has 5 feet rise or lockage, and a depth of 7 feet on the 
sills at low water. The length of the dam in the eastern channel is 
300 feet, and that in the western channel 690 feet. 

There is a navigable depth in the Richelieu of 7 feet, between St. 
Ours lock and Chambly basin. 

Chambly canal succeeds the 32 miles of navigable water between 
St. Ours lock and Chambly basin; it overcomes the rapids between 
Chambly and St. Johns. The canal is 12 miles long, with a width of 
60 feet at surface, and 36 feet at bottom; there are 9 locks, of ivhich 
the smallest is 118 feet long and 22J feet wide, with 7 feet water on 
the sills, and a rise or lockage of 74 feet. 

The number of vessels passed through Chambly canal during 1900 
was 2,841 of an aggregate tonnage of 300,755 tons. 

St. Lawrence river continues westward for about a mile above 
Sorel; it then takes nearly a southerly direction, and is clear and 
deep in the fairway southward to Lanoraie, a distance of 6 miles, 
above which the ship channel passes through dredged cuttings be¬ 
tween ile St. Ours and the land eastward of it, and between the 
shoals off Lavaltrie and Contrecoeur. 

Ile du Pads range lights. —The front lighthouse, a square white 
building, surmounted by a square white lantern, all 19 feet high, 
stands on the eastern side of Ile aux Cochons, on a concrete pier 
22 feet high, square, with battered sides. The lighthouse exhibits 
at 39 feet above high water a fixed white light, visible '6 miles in the 
range line. 

The rear lighthouse, a brown square steel skeleton tower, with white 
wooden slat work on upper part of side facing channel inclosed white 
upper part and white lantern, with a red roof, all 69 feet high, 
stands on the southwestern end of Ile du Pads, 15°, 653 yards from 
the front lighthouse. It exhibits at 71 feet above high water a fixed 
white light, visible in the line of range 6 miles. 

The two lights in line astern 15° lead up from the upper end of Ile 
aux Foins to the intersection of their range line with that of Laval¬ 
trie range, or to mid-channel abreast a windmill on the eastern shore 
of the river. 

Lavaltrie range lights. —A white lighthouse, with red vertical 
stripes on sides facing up and down stream, 13 feet high, on a small 
pier on the southeastern side of Lavaltrie island, exhibits, at 17 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light visible 8 miles. 

A square, red, open steel frame lighthouse, with a red lantern and 
white slatwork target, with vertical red stripe, 32 feet high, on a 
small pier, 320 yards 207° from the front light, exhibits, at 33 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible 10 miles. 


534 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 


These two lights in line 207° lead up from the intersection of this 
range with He du Pads range, to J mile below lightbuoy No. 5 M., 
and thence through Flat Islands channel. 

Caution.—This range can not be used by deep draft vessels be¬ 
yond the point J mile below lightbuoy No. 5 M. Such vessels must 
take St. Ours Traverse range at that point. 

The river from lightbuoy No. 5 M, northward of ile St. Ours, all 
the way to Montreal, takes a southerly direction and is divided by 
numerous islands into two or more channels. Therefore the buoys 
and range lights must be carefully followed. 

Ile aux Foins lightbuoy No. 1 M, is a black cylindrical buoy, 
showing an intermittent white light, moored at the upper end of the 
curve at Ile aux Foins. 

St. Ours lightbuoy No. 5 M, situated a little more than f 
mile 168° from Lanoraie wharf, is a black spar gas buoy, which ex¬ 
hibits an intermittent white light, thus: Light, 7 seconds; eclipse, 5 
seconds. 

St. Ours Traverse range lights.— The front lighthouse, on the 
beach on the eastern shore of the river at 1.1 miles above the southern 
end of ile St. Ours, is white, square, 33 feet high, with a red roof, 
and it exhibits, at 50 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 
4 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, on the river bank at 181°, 900 yards from the 
front lighthouse, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, 64 feet high, with 
a white slatwork on the upper part of side facing channel, and an 
inclosed white upper part with a red roof, which exhibits, at 87 feet 
above high river, a fixed white light, visible 4 miles in the range line. 

These lights in line lead up from lightbuoy No. 5 M to Bellmouth 
curve. 

Bellmouth Curve lightbuoys—No. 16 M is a red spar, moored 
at the lower end of Bellmouth curve and exhibits an intermittent red 
light. 

No. 20 M, situated at the middle of Bellmouth curve, is a red spar 
gas buoy, which exhibits a fixed red light. 

No. 24 1 is a red spar, moored at the upper end of Bellmouth 
curve, and exhibits an intermittent red light. 

Petite Traverse range lights.— The front lighthouse, on the 
• river bank east of the southern end of ile St. Ours, is square, white, 
with a red lantern roof, 33 feet high, and exhibits a fixed white light, 
visible 4 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, at 47°, 610 yards from the front light, is a 
brown, square, skeleton tower, 64 feet high, with a white slatwork on 
upper part of side facing channel, and an inclosed white upper part 


\ RANGE LIGHTS. 535 

with a red roof, which exhibits, at 117 feet above high river, a fixed 
white light, visible 5 miles in the range line. 

These lights in line astern 47° lead through Petite traverse from 
Bellmouth curve to black lightbuoy No. 31 M. 

Contrecoeur Bend lightbuoy No. 31 M is moored at the western 
end of Petite traverse and the northeastern end of Contrecoeur course; 
it is a black steel spar buoy which exhibits an intermittent white 
light, thus: Light, 7 seconds; eclipse, 5 seconds. 

Contrecoeur Course range lights. —The front lighthouse, on the 
river bank eastward from the northern end of ile St. Ours, is white, 
square, with a red lantern roof, and 33 feet high; it exhibits, at 63 feet 
above high river, a fixed white light, visible 5 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 33°, 852 yards from the front light¬ 
house, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, with white slatwork on the 
upper part of side facing channel, and an inclosed white upper part, 
with a red roof, and 64 feet high; it exhibits, at 127 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light visible 5 miles in the range line. 

These lights in line astern, 33°, lead through Contracoeur course 
from lightbuoy No. 31 M to lightbuoy No. 45 M, where this range 
intersects Contracoeur Traverse range. 

Contrecoeur Junction lightbuoy No. 45 M, moored at the 
southwestern end of Contrecoeur course and the northern end of Con¬ 
trecoeur Traverse dredged channel, is a black gas buoy showing an 
intermittent white light, thus: Light, 6 seconds; eclipse, 5 seconds. 

Contrecoeur Traverse range lights. — The front lighthouse, situ¬ 
ated 227°, 2-J miles from Contrecoeur church, is square, white, 27 
feet high, on a concrete pier, and it exhibits, at 35 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light, visible 6 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 194°, 703 yards from the front light¬ 
house, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, with white slatwork on the 
upper part of side facing channel, and an inclosed white upper part 
with a red roof, 64 feet high; and it exhibits, at 95 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light visible 6 miles in the range line. 

These lights in line, 194°, lead through Contrecoeur traverse from 
lightbuoy No. 45 M, until Contrecoeur beacon towers lights or 
Vercheres Village range lights are in line. 

Contrecoeur Towers range lights. —A square white tower, 38 
feet high, with a red roof, is situated on the flats off Contrecoeur 
village, with Contrecoeur church bearing 123°, distant J mile nearly; 
it exhibits at 31 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 6 
miles in the range line. 

A square skeleton tower, 68 feet high, with a white slatwork upper 
part on side facing channel, stands on an island at 40°, 1^ miles 


536 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER—QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

from the preceding tower; it exhibits a fixed white light, visible 6 
miles in the range line. 

Vercheres Village range lights. —The front lighthouse, situ¬ 
ated 104°, 127 yards from Vercheres wharf, is white, square, with a 
red roof, and 31 feet high, it exhibits, at 44 feet above high river, a 
fixed white light, visible 12 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 220°, 650 yards from the front light¬ 
house, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, with an inclosed white 
upper part and a red lantern roof; it exhibits, at 85 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light, visible 15 njiles in the range line. 

Vercheres Village range lights in line ahead 220° or Contrecceur 
Towers range lights in line astern 40° lead through the dredged 
channel between Contrecceur and Vercheres traverses from buoy No. 
49 M to lightbuoy No. 82 M. 

Plum Island lightbuoy No. 82 M, moored off the upper end of 
lie aux Prunes (Plum island), is a red, steel spar showing an inter¬ 
mittent red light. 

Vercheres Traverse range lights. —The front lighthouse, situ¬ 
ated 43°, 2,857 yards from Vercheres church, is square, white, with a 
red lantern roof and 23 feet high; it exhibits, at 36 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light, visible 11 miles in the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 55°, 633 yards from the front light¬ 
house, is white, circular, lantern white, octagonal, with a red roof, 
all 41 feet high, and it exhibits, at 43 feet above high river, a fixed 
white light, visible 12 miles in the range line. 

These lights in line lead through the channel from the alignment 
of Vercheres Village range lights at lightbuoy No. 82 M to the align¬ 
ment of lie Bouchard range lights at lightbuoy No. 89 M. 

lie Bouchard range lights. —The front lighthouse, situated on 
a cribwork pier off the eastern end of ile Marie, is square, white, with 
a red lantern roof, 28 feet high, and it exhibits, at 39 feet above high 
river, a fixed white light, visible 8 miles on the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, on the southeastern coast of ile Bouchard, 
opposite the lower end of Plum island, and 37°, 2,733 yards from 
the front light, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, with an inclosed 
white upper part and a red lantern roof, 65 feet high; it exhibits, at 
75 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 8 miles in the 
range line. 

Verclieres lightbuoy No. 89 M is moored on the southeastern 
side of the channel at about J mile above Vercheres point; it is a 
black spar buoy, and it exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Ile Belorier range lights. —The front lighthouse, situated on 
a cribwork pier on the eastern coast of ile Delorier, is white, square, 


DIRECTIONS. 


587 


with a red lantern roof, 19 feet high, and it exhibits, at 37 fee.t above 
high river, a fixed white light, visible 11 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, on the eastern coast of ile Ste. Therese at 
nearly 1,200 yards from its northern end and 3,140 yards 217° from 
the front light, is a brown, square, skeleton tower, with an enclosed 
white upper part, and a red lantern roof, all 65 feet high; it exhibits, 
at <3 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 14 miles in 
the range line. 

Ile Delorier range lights in line ahead 217°, or Ile Bouchard range 
lights in line astern 37°, lead through the channel from the align¬ 
ment of Vercheres Traverse range lights to lightbuoy No. 117 M. 

Directions.— (See p. 529.)—Steer on lie Aux Raisins range 191°, 
through the dredged channel at the upper end of lake St. Peter, 
to a little above black lightbuoy No. Ill L, and begin to haul to 
the westward for lie du Moine lower range, which should be well 
on at ^ mile above the buoy. Steer on this range 219° to buoy No. 
120 L, and there swing around the bend, keeping the lead going, and 
get on Gallia Bay upper range. Steer on this range 249° nearly 
up to lightbuoy No. 123 L, but commence to swing to the southward 
just before reaching the buoy in order to bring Gallia Bay lower 
range on astern by the time the buoy is passed. Get the range 
quickly and keep it on astern, steering 210° until Ste. Anne de Sorel 
range is nearly on ahead 235°. 

Keep Ste. Anne de Sorel range on until lightbuoy No. 136 L bears 
270°, when steer to the westward around the buoy and bring on 
astern Ile du Moine upper range, steering 263° nearly up to light¬ 
buoy No. 146 L. Just before reaching the buoy steer a little to the 
southward, so as to bring Ile de Grace range on astern 75° just beyond 
the buoy. Keep Ile de Grace range on astern until Ile du Pads 
front light bears 314°, when commence the turn around the bend 
above Sorel; make the turn, of course keeping lightbuoy No. 1 M 
on the port bow. By the time the buoy is reached and the turn com¬ 
pleted, Ile du Pads range should be on astern. 

Keep Ile du Pads range on astern, steering 195° until abreast a 
windmill on the eastern shore of the river, when steer 206° with 
lightbuoy No. 5 M on the port bow. Instead of steering this course, 
an alternative is to keep Ile du Pads range on astern until Lavaltrie 
range comes nearly on, and then take that range. But as the inter¬ 
section of these ranges is nearly at the limit of visibility of Lavaltrie 
range, the latter may be difficult to pick up. The fairway of the 
riyer is clear and wide and the first direction is therefore probably 
preferable. In either case, when about \ mile below lightbuoy No. 
5 M, steer to the southward, bring on St. Ours Channel range ahead, 


538 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

and steer on it 181° to lightbuoy No. 16 M. Now steer around Bell- 
mouth curve, keeping between the buoys, and bring on astern Petite 
Traverse range, bearing 47° as near buoy No. 23 M as possible. 
Keep on this range, steering 227° nearly up to lightbuoy No. 31 M. 
Just before reaching this buoy, steer so as to bring on astern Con- 
trecceur Course range, and keep on it, steering 213° until nearty 
up to lightbuoy No. 45 M, and then bring on ahead Contrecoeur 
Traverse range, bearing 194°. 

Contrecoeur traverse is less than 1 mile long, and the ship must 
therefore be handled quickly. Steer on Contrecoeur Traverse range, 
to within about 200 yards of buoy No. 49 M, whence steer to the 
westward and swing gradually on to Vercheres Village range ahead 
or Contrecoeur Towers range astern. Steer on either range, 220°, 
nearly up to lightbuoy No. 82 M, where bring on astern Vercheres 
Traverse raqge, keeping on it through Vercheres traverse, past the 
village to lightbuoy No. 89 M. At the buoy swing on to ile Delorier 
range ahead or ile Bouchard range astern. 

It must be remembered that at many of the turns the channel is 
narrow and the turns must be quickly made. The seaman must be 
well acquainted with the steering and speed qualities of his ship, and 
must handle her according to his best judgment. 

Cape St. Michael lightbuoy No. 117 M, situated on the south¬ 
eastern side of the channel eastward of the northern end of ile Delo¬ 
rier, is a black spar buoy, which exhibits an intermittent white light. 

lie Delorier lightbuoy No. 124 M, situated 300 yards south¬ 
ward of the southern part of Delorier island, is a red spar buoy and 
it exhibits a fixed white light. 

Repentigny range lights. —Two fixed white lights are exhib¬ 
ited from two white lighthouses at Repentigny which, in line lead 
through Isle Bague channel. But this channel is not suitable for 
vessels of heavy draft. 

Isle Bague light. —A white octagonal lighthouse on isle Bague 
exhibits, at 24 feet above high river, a fixed white light visible 4 miles. 

Ile Ste. Therese lower range lights.— The front lighthouse, on 
the eastern coast of ile Ste. Therese at about mile from its northern 
end is white, with a red roof, on an open post foundation, and 16 feet 
high; it exhibits, at 22 feet above high river, a fixed w T hite light, vis¬ 
ible 10 miles over a small arc on each side of the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 200 yards 217° from the front light¬ 
house, is square, white, with a red roof, and 42 feet high; it exhibits, 
at 48 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 12 miles over 
a small arc on each side of the range line. 

These lights in line lead through the dredged channel from light¬ 
buoy No. 124 M up to Varennes curve. 


RANGE LIGHTS. 


589 


Boucherville range lights.—Two masts on the northern end of 
isle St. Joseph exhibit two fixed white lights, which lead from Va¬ 
rennes into Boucherville channel. The masts have black diamond 
shapes attached to them. 

Caution. —Be careful not to get these lights mixed with anj 7 of 
the ship channel range lights. 

Varennes Curve light buoy No. 129 M, moored at the lower 
end of the curve is a black steel spar, showing an intermittent white 
light. 

Varennes Curve light buoy No. 133 M, moored in the middle 
of the curve 1,200 yards northwestward from Varennes church, is a 
black spar buoy, exhibiting an intermittent white light. 

lie a PAigle range lights. —The front lighthouse, situated on 
the western coast of the isle near its northern end, is a white pentag¬ 
onal lantern on a concrete pier, 30 feet high, and it exhibits a fixed 
white light, visible 2 miles on the range line. 

The rear lighthouse, situated on the eastern coast of the island at 
183°, 515 yards from the front lighthouse, is a square white tower 
on a concrete pier, 52 feet high, and it exhibits a fixed white light, 
visible 2 miles on the range line. 

These lights in line 83° lead through the channel from lightbuoy 
No. 133 M to abreast the lower end of ile au Beurre. 

The ship channel then passes between iles Ste. Therese and'aux 
Vaches, on the northwest, and ile a l’Aigle on the southeast. 

Ile aux Vaches Traverse range lights. —The front lighthouse 
is the front lighthouse of Ile a l’Aigle range. 

The rear lighthouse, situated in Varennes village at 34° 1,887 yards 
from the front lighthouse, is a red skeleton tower, with white slat- 
work on upper portion of side facing channel, and an inclosed white 
upper part 61 feet high, and it exhibits, at 80 feet above high river* 
a fixed white light, visible 4 miles on the range line. 

These lights in line astern, 34°, lead up from the bend below Ile 
aux Vaches light to the alignment of Ste. Therese upper range lights, 
or to lightbuoy No. 149 M. 

Pointe aux Trembles Bend lightbuoy No. 149 M, moored at a 
bend in the channel and northeastward nearly 1 mile from Point aux 
Trembles church, is a black spar gas buoy, exhibiting an intermittent 
white light. 

Ile Ste. Therese upper range lights. —The front lighthouse, 
situated on the southeastern coast of ile aux Vaches, is white octag¬ 
onal, 17 feet high, and on a concrete pier; it exhibits, at 32 feet 
above high river, a fixed white light, visible 4 miles on the range line. 


540 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

The rear lighthouse, on the southeastern coast of Ste. Therese island 
at 25°, 1,677 yards from the front lighthouse, is square, 71 feet high, 
and consists of an open framework of red steel, with wooden white 
slats on the upper portion of the side facing the range, surmounted 
by an inclosed watch room and a lantern, all built on a concrete pier; 
it exhibits, at 84 feet above high river, a fixed white light, visible 4 
miles on the range line. 

These lights in line astern, 25°, lead through the dredged channel 
off pointe aux Trembles, from lightbuoy No. 149 M to buoy No. 
163 M, at the head of the channel. 

The channel from buoy No. 163 M curves southward for about 1 
mile. 

Pointe anx Trembles Curve lightbuoy No. 167 M, moored at 
the middle of Pointe aux Trembles curve, is a black spar gas buoy, 
exhibiting an intermittent white light. 

Longue Point Traverse range lights. —The front lighthouse, 
on top of river bank, about 1\ miles below Longue Point church, is a 
square white building surmounted by a white octagonal lantern, all 
23 feet high, exhibiting, at 41 feet above high water, a fixed white 
light, visible in the range line 4 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, situated 338 yards 348° from the front light, 
is a square white building, 45 feet high, which exhibits, at 65 feet 
above high water, a fixed white light, visible in the line of range 4 
miles. 

These lights in line astern, 348°, lead up through Longue Point 
traverse from about J mile above lightbuoy No. 167 M to just above 
buoy No. 171 M, where the harbor limits begin. 

Longue Point lightbuoy No. 174 M, moored 160°, 600 yards 
from Longue point, is a red spar gas buoy, exhibiting an intermittent 
white light. 

He Ponde range lights. —The front lighthouse, situated on the 
northeastern side of ile Ponde, is a square white building, sur¬ 
mounted by an octagonal red lantern, all 32 feet high, on a concrete 
pier, and exhibits, at 43 feet above high water, a fixed white light, 
visible 5 miles. 

The rear lighthouse, situated on the Guard pier, miles, 202°, 
from the front light, is a square brown open framework tower, with 
white slat work on upper part of side facing range, inclosed upper part 
and white octagonal lantern, with a red roof, all 64 feet high; it ex¬ 
hibits, at 97 feet above high water, a fixed white light, visible 6 miles. 

The lights in line 202° lead up from the intersection of their range 
line near buoy No. 174 M, with Longue Point Traverse range, to the 
intersection of their range line with Bellerive Park range, near light 
buoy No. 181 M. 


LIGHTBUOYS-RANGE LIGHTS. 


541 


Pouillier a Gagnon lightbuoy No. 177 M, moored on the south¬ 
eastern side of the channel at 1.4 miles above Longue Point church, 
is a black spar buoy, which exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Longueuil lightbuoy No. 181 M, moored at the northeastern 
end of Longueuil Shoal cutting, is a black spar gas buoy, which 
exhibits an intermittent white light. 

Longueuil lightbuoy No. 191 M, moored to the westward of 
Longueuil shoal, between Nos. 181 M and 193 M, is a black spar, 
exhibiting an intermittent white light. 

The channel, after rounding lightbuoy No. 174 M, leads directly 
toward lightbuoy No. 181 M; thence past lightbuoy No. 191 M, to 
193 M; thence to lightbuoy No. 195 M, and thence to the wharves. 

Lightbuoy No. 193 M is a black spar moored about § mile below 
ile Ronde, exhibiting an intermittent white light. 

Lightbuoy No. 194 M, moored off Dezery street, opposite light¬ 
buoy No. 193 M, is a red spar buoy, exhibiting an intermittent red 
light. 

Bellerive Park leading lights.— Two fixed red electric arc lights 
are exhibited from a pole on the wharf and from a pole at 218°, 193 
yards from the first; they are visible 2 miles on the range line. These 
lights in line lead up the middle of the ship channel from lightbuoy 
No. 181 M to the turn below lightbuoy No. 195 M. 

St. Peter’s church, Montreal, is situated 218° nearly j mile from 
the front range light pole. 

Ile Ronde lightbuoy No. 195 M, moored 400 yards northward 
of ile Konde, is a black spar gas buoy, which exhibits an intermittent 
white light. 

Ile Ronde lightbuoy No. 196 M, moored off Frontenac street, 
Montreal, opposite lightbuoy No. 195 M, is a red spar, exhibiting an 
intermittent red light. 

Hochelaga range lights. —Lamps attached to the day beacon on 
Hochelaga wharf, and to the day beacon on shore at 12°, 337 yards 
from it, both situated near Laurier pier, exhibit, at 27 and 40 feet 
above high river, two fixed red electric arc lights, visible 3 miles on 
the range line. 

These lights in line astern, 12°, lead up through the dredged chan¬ 
nel at St. Mary rapid from the turn at lightbuoy No. 195 M, into 
Montreal harbor, and about midway between the eastern end of 
Jacques Cartier pier and the northern end of the guard pier. 

Directions from lightbuoy No. 89 M to Montreal. —From 
lightbuoy No. 89 M (see p. 538) steer 217° on Ile Delorier range 
ahead or Ile Bouchard range astern to lightbuoy No. 117 M. From 
this buoy the channel makes two curves to lightbuoy No. 124 M, and 


542 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

there are no ranges, therefore the seaman must be guided by the 
buoys. From lightbuoy No. 117 M steer to leave buoy No. 122 M on 
the starboard hand, and from that buoy steer 189° for nearly 4 mile 
or until the light on ile Delorier bears 350°, when the ship should be 
nearly abreast lightbuoy No. 124 M and nearly on Ile Ste. Therese 
lower range. Get on this range at once and steer on it 217° nearly 
up to lightbuoy No. 129 M, at the lower end of Varennes curve. 

About 300 yards below lightbuoy No. 129 M leave the range and 
take the curve. Make the turn very carefully, as there are shoals on 
either side. After leaving the range, steer a little to the westward, 
keeping lightbuoy No. 129 M well on port bow; give the buoy a good 
berth and swing to the southward, keeping lightbuoy No. 133 M on 
the port bow, but not too much so. As soon as possible after round¬ 
ing lightbuoy No. 133 M, get on Ile a 1’Aigle range and steer on it 
183° until the single light on the southeastern side of ile Ste. Therese 
bears 225°. 

Now steer 202° in mid-channel between ile Ste. Therese and ile 
aux Vaches on the northwest and ile a l’Aigle on the southeast. 
When the light on ile aux Vaches bears 267°, get on Ile aux Vaches 
Traverse range astern, and steer on it 214° through the traverse 
nearly to the intersection of Ile aux Vaches Traverse range and Ile 
Ste. Therese upper range. Take this last range astern and steer on it 
205° to buoy No. 163 M. Leave the buoy on the port hand and steer 
around the bend, being guided by the buoys, until past lightbuoy 
No. 167 M. 

Steer now so as to get on Longue Point Traverse range at about J 
mile above lightbuoy No. 167 M, and then keep on the range astern, 
steering 168° through the traverse to buoy No. 171 M. From that 
buoy steer a little to the southward to give lightbuoy No. 174 M a 
berth of 150 yards, and then to get on Ile Ronde range as soon as 
possible after passing the buoy. Steer 202° on Ile Ronde range to 
lightbuoy No. 181 M, whence take Bellerive Park range, steering on 
it 218° to lightbuoy No. 193 M. 

At this buoy leave the range and steer fairly between lightbuoys 
No. 195 M and No. 196 M, keeping on the course until Hochelaga 
range is nearly on astern. Bring the range on and steer on it 192°, 
going to wharf as desired, and guarding against shoal off the Guard 
pier. 

In deep draft ships keep on Bellerive Park range until lightbuoy 
No. 194 M, and two beacons, one on Laurier pier and one on Suther¬ 
land pier, are nearly in line, bearing 20°. Take this range astern 
and steer on it until lightbuoy No. 196 M is nearly in line with two 
beacons on shore bearing 8° ; take this last range and proceed to wharf 
as desired. 


MONTREAL HARBOR. 


543 


Montreal harbor is that portion of the St. Lawrence river which 
extends south-south westward from Longue point for about 6 miles to 
about f mile below Victoria bridge. It is the end of the deep draft 
navigation of the river, and it is capable of sheltering a large number 
of vessels. 

Shoal water extends nearly all the way across the river from the 
eastern shore, abreast the city, leaving a deep water harbor and chan¬ 
nel only a little more than £ mile wide in its widest part. 

The Victoria bridge, on which the Grand Trunk railroad and two 
roadways cross the river, is a steel truss bridge about 7,000 feet long, 
and has 24 spans of 254 feet each, with one of 348 feet over the steam¬ 
boat channel. 

The Canadian Pacific railroad crosses the river at the foot of lake 
St. Louis, about 6 miles above Montreal. 

Wharves.—Along the river bank at Montreal, for about 4£ miles, 
there is a line of wharves, piers, and warehouses that is constantly 
being extended and improved. There is a large amount of addi¬ 
tional wharfage at Maisonneuve, about 1£ miles below ile Ronde. 
Three deep water piers, Jacques Cartier, King Edward, and Alexan¬ 
dra, extend into the harbor within and to the westward of the Guard 
pier, between Victoria pier and Windmill Point basin. This basin, 
close to the entrances to Lachine canal, is nearly £ mile in length 
and about 300 feet in width; there is a wharf on its eastern side and 
one also on its western side. 

Repairs.—Large repairs to hull, machinery, and boilers can be 
made by the Laurie Engine company, Caledonian Ironworks, Gartle 
& Co., and the Allan Steamship company. This last company has 
a floating crane capable of lifting 25 to 30 tons. 

Dry docks.—No. 1, Government dock, is situated in Lachine 
canal about £ mile from the entrance. It is 300 feet long, 45 feet 
broad, with a depth of 10 feet on the sill; before reaching it, two 
canal locks, each 270 feet long and 45 feet broad, with a depth of 18 
feet on the sills, have to be passed. 

No. 2, Cantinas dock, is also situated in the Lachine canal, about 
1£ miles from the entrance. It is 360 feet long, 45 feet broad, and 
has 10 feet water on the sill; before reaching it, a third lock of the 
same dimensions as the other two has to be passed. 

Wet dock.—No. 1 basin, consisting of the old and the new basins, 
is situated between the first and the second pairs of locks of the 
Lachine canal. Its area is 3£ acres, length 540 feet, and breadth 200 
feet; it is entered by either of two locks 270 feet long, 45 feet broad, 
and with 18 feet water on the sills. 

Supplies of all kinds can be obtained at Montreal. 


544 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

Pilotage.—There are about 55 pilots in Montreal pilotage district, 
for and above Quebec harbor. 

The pilotage dues for the removal of any vessel from one wharf 
to another, within the limits of the harbor, or from any of the 
wharves into Lachine canal; or out of the canal to any of the 
wharves, or from the foot of the current, or from Longueuil into the 
harbor, or from the harbor to the foot of the current, or to Long¬ 
ueuil, are, for each service, $5. (For pilotage fees between Quebec 
and Montreal see page 509.) 

Guard pier.—The guard or Mackay pier extends about 350°, 2,330 
yards from near the Montreal end of Victoria bridge. 

Ice.—The ice flowing down St. Lawrence river each spring from 
above Montreal is checked in its progress by the narrow passage 
between ile Ronde and Montreal. This check causes a considerable 
rise in the river level at Montreal, the water occasionally covering 
the wharves, and leaving great quantities of ice on those wharves 
not protected by the guard pier. 

This movement of the ice is locally known as “ the shove.” The 
shove of 1901 was a remarkable one. On April 14 of that year 
the ice was blocked or shoved bodily 100 feet upstream between the 
guard pier and Jacques Cartier pier, the water on the sill of La- 
chine lock reaching the height of 40 feet 2 inches. On the 17th the 
blockade gave way, and the water fell at the rate of 1 foot per hour 
for seven hours. From the head of the harbor to Victoria pier the 
wharves were left practically free of ice, but outside the area pro¬ 
tected by the guard pier a quantity of ice approximating 78,730 
cubic yards was left on the wharves. 

Wintering.—Vessels can not winter in Montreal harbor, as they 
would be there exposed to the pressure of drift ice, except in the 
canals; but they are sent either to Sorel (see p. 531) or to Boucher - 
ville islands, which are situated off the eastern bank of the St. Law¬ 
rence between pointe aux Trembles and Longue point. These are 
the only places where large vessels are safe from the ice; but there 
are many places where small river craft may be secured. 

Opening and closing of navigation.—The average date of the 
first arrival from sea is April 28, and that of the last departure for 
sea November 24. For ten years from 1893-1902 the dates of the 
first arrival have varied between April 17 and May 3, and those of 
the last departure from November 23 to December 4. 

Note.— Although the St. Lawrence between Montreal and Quebec 
is well marked by range lights and buoys, it is not expected that 
the large trans-Atlantic steamers will leave Montreal during the 
night; their time for sailing is usually fixed in advance. Vessels of 
light draft, however, can leave at any time when they are ready in 


MONTREAL. 


545 


clear weather. Inward-bound vessels can proceed to Montreal in 
ordinary weather. 

Time signal.—A time ball is hoisted to the masthead at the tower 
of the harbor commissioner’s building at about lib. 55m. a. m., and 
dropped (by electricity from McGill University observatory) at 
noon Eastern Standard time, or mean time of the 75th meridian of 
West longitude, corresponding to 5h. Om. Osec. Greenwich mean time. 

The signal is made daily, except on Sundays, during the season of 
navigation, and it may be depended on to less than ^ second. 

Should the ball for any reason fail to drop at noon, it will, if possi¬ 
ble, be dropped at lh. Om. Os. p. m. Eastern Standard time. 

Hospital.—At Montreal, sick seamen are sent either to the general 
hospital or to Notre Dame hospital. 

Montreal, the chief city and commercial capital of Canada, the 
principal port of entry, and the center of the railway systems, is situ¬ 
ated on the eastern side of Montreal island, which is formed by the 
junction of St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers. The city stands on a 
series of natural terraces at the foot of mount Royal, which rises to 
the height of 760 feet at about If miles from the St. Lawrence, and 
it is divided into lower and upper towns, the former being the trading 
quarter and the latter the residential. The city has two cathedrals, 
many churches, three large hospitals, McGill university, a branch of 
Laval university, and several colleges. The majority of the inhab¬ 
itants are of French origin and are Roman Catholics. The city was 
founded in 1642 and taken from the French in 1760. Its population 
was 267,730 in 1901. 

Communication.—Montreal is in communication by rail with all 
parts of Canada and the United States by means of the Grand Trunk, 
the Canadian Pacific, the New York Central and Hudson River, and 
the Intercolonial roads. 

The following steamship lines run to Europe, etc.: Allan line, 
weekly to Liverpool and Glasgow; fortnightly to London and to 
Cherbourg or Havre. Canada-South African line, monthly to Cape¬ 
town and other South African ports. Canadian Ocean and Inland 
line, fortnightly to Rotterdam. Canadian Pacific Atlantic lines, 
weekly to Liverpool, Bristol, and Antwerp; every 10 days to Lon¬ 
don. Dominion line, weekly to Liverpool; fortnightly to Bristol. 
Donaldson line, weekly to Glasgow. Hamburg-American line, every 
10 days to Hamburg. Hansa-St. Lawrence line, fortnightly to Ant¬ 
werp. Head line, weekly to Belfast and Dublin. Leyland line, fort¬ 
nightly to Antwerp. Lord line, monthly to Cardiff. Manchester line, 
weekly to Manchester. Thomson line, weekly to London; fortnightly 
to Leith; monthly to Aberdeen. 


50918—08-35 


546 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER-QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 


During the winter nearly all of these lines transfer to Portland, 
Me., or to St. John or Halifax, and cut down the number of sail¬ 
ings. The Allan line stops its London and Cherbourg service en¬ 
tirely. The Hamburg-American and Hansa-St. Lawrence lines stop 
entirely; so does the Lord line. The Thomson line stops its Leith 
and Aberdeen service. 

Telegraph.—The city is connected with all parts of Canada and 
the United States by telegraph. 

Position.—The transit pier of the observatory of McGill univer¬ 
sity is in latitude 45° 30' 22" N.; longitude 73° 34' 40" W. 

Climate.—The climate of Montreal is somewhat severe in winter, 
the mean temperature for the coldest winter month, January, being 
13.3° F.; but the thermometer often being 10° to 15° below 0°. 

The summers are sometimes hot, the highest mean temperature 
being 69.5° F. in July, but the thermometer sometimes reaches 90°. 

Fogs are not frequent. 

Gales are apt to blow in November, December, January, February, 
and March, particularly in the last two. 

Trade.—The principal industries are manufactories of woolen and 
cotton goods, rubber, ropes, boots and shoes, clothing, tobacco, and 
works connected with the railway. There are also iron foundries, 
sugar refineries, sawmills, etc. 

The principal exports are lumber, grain, flour, meal, eggs, cheese, 
butter, apples, cattle, sheep, and horses, and the principal imports are 
coal, cement, and iron. 

The United States is represented by a consul-general and by a 
vice and deputy consul-general. 


CHAPTER XIV. 


ST. LAWRENCE RIVER ABOVE MONTREAL-GENERAL DE¬ 
SCRIPTION OF THE CANAL, RIVER, AND TAKE NAVI¬ 
GATION. 

Note. —In this chapter only a very general description of the navi¬ 
gation is given. For detailed information and sailing directions the 
seaman is referred to Hydrographic Office publications, Nos. 108 D, 
108 C, 108 B, and 108 A; all of the Great Lakes. 

The river St. Lawrence is closed to navigation immediately 
above Montreal by Lachine rapids, the first of a series of rapids 
which obstruct the river. 

These impediments are so far avoided by canals, constructed by the 
Dominion government and by the United States and the State gov¬ 
ernments, that vessels 255 feet in length and drawing 14 feet of water, 
can navigate between Montreal and lake Erie; and vessels of 20 feet 
draft between lakes Erie, Huron, and Superior by passing through 
the American St. Marys Falls canal, or of IT feet 6 inches draft by 
passing through the Canadian Sault St. Marie canal. 

Canal and lake vessels.—The canal type of steam vessel is about 
255 feet in length over all, 42 feet beam, and 26 feet molded depth; 
built of steel. These vessels carry about 2,000 to 3,000 tons on a 
draft of 14 feet water, and they are available both for the lakes and 
for crossing the Atlantic if required. 

Many of the vessels employed in the Great Lakes are steel freight 
steamers of 450 to 500 feet in length, and of 7,000 to 8,000 net tons 
capacity, with quadruple expansion engines of 1,800 to 3,000 horse 
power, and generally with water tube boilers. 

Lighting.—The approaches to the canals and the channels 
through the intermediate river reaches are well defined and are 
lighted with lights and gas buoys, admitting of safe navigation, if 
the vessel is in the hands of competent pilots, both by day and night. 
There are also numerous lights on the shores of the Great Lakes. 
(See publications named above.) 

Opening and closing of navigation.—Lachine and Soulanges 
canals open about May 1 and close about December 1. Lake Ontario 
never freezes except near the shore and navigation is rarely inter¬ 
rupted. Lakes Erie, Huron, Michigan, and Superior are usually 

547 



548 ST. LAWRENCE RIVER ABOVE MONTREAL. 

closed to navigation by ice from about the middle of December to 
the middle of April. 

All Canadian canals are closed on Sundays from 6 a. m. to 9 a. m. 
Lake navigation.—The principal difficulties of lake navigation 
are fog and snow. There are no tides or tidal streams and the cur¬ 
rents are weak. 

Montreal to lake Superior.—The through route from Montreal 
to the head of lake Superior has a minimum depth of 14 feet water, 


and is as follows: 

Miles. 

La chine canal_ 85 

Lake St. Louis and river St. Lawrence_ 16 

Soulanges canal (or Beauharnois canal, only 9 feet deep, 

11 i miles)_ 14 

Lake St. Francis and river St. Lawrence_ 33 

Cornwall canal_ 11 

River St. Lawrence_ 5 

Farrans Point canal___ 1 

River St. Lawrence_ 10 

Rapide Plat canal_ 34 

River St. Lawrence_ 4 

Galops canal_ 71 

River St. Lawrence and lake Ontario_ 236 

Welland canal_1_ 26f 

Lake Erie, Detroit river, lake St. Clair, lake Huron, etc_ 580 

Sault Ste. Marie canal, or St. Mary Falls canal_ 11 

Lake Superior to Port Arthur_ 266 


Total distance_ 1, 2231 

To Duluth_1,357 

To Chicago_1,286 


Lachine canal extends from Montreal harbor to the town of 
Lachine, overcoming St. Louis rapids; it is 8J miles long; has 5 locks, 
each 270 feet long and 45 feet wide, with a total rise or lockage of 45 
feet. The depth of water on the sills is 14 feet to 18 feet, and the 
average width of the canal is 150 feet. The canal consists of one 
channel, with two distinct systems of locks, the new and the old; the 
latter are still available and have a depth of 9 feet on the sills. There 
are two lock entrances at each end. 

Lake St. Louis and river St. Lawrence.—From the head of 
Lachine canal to the foot of Soulanges canal the distance, by lake St. 
Louis and river St. Lawrence, is 16 miles, and the least water in the 
channel is 28 feet. 

Soulanges canal, on the northern bank of the river, extends from 
Cascade point to Coteau landing, overcoming Cascade rapids, Cedar 
rapids, and Coteau rapids; it is 14 miles long; has 4 lift locks and 
one guard lock, each 280 feet long and 45 feet wide, with a total rise 
or lockage of 84 feet; the depth of water on the sills is 15 feet; the 





















BEAUHARNOIS CANAL—RAPIDE PLAT CANAL. 549 

breadth of the canal at the bottom is 100 feet and at the water surface 
164 feet. It is lighted by 219 electric arc lights of 2,000 candlepower 
each. 

Beauharnois canal, on the southern bank of the river, is 111 miles 
long from Melocheville to Valleyfield, and overcomes the same rapids 
as the Soulanges canal. It is 80 feet wide at the bottom and 120 feet 
at the water surface; it has 9 locks, each 200 feet long and 45 feet 
wide, with a depth of 9 feet water on the sills, and a total rise or lock¬ 
age of 82 feet. 

Lake St. Francis and river St. Lawrence. —From the head of 
Soulanges canal to the foot of Cornwall canal the distance, by lake 
St. I rancis and river St. Lawrence, is 33 miles, and it is navigable 
for vessels drawing up to 14 feet. 

Cornwall canal, Ontario, extends past Long Sault rapids from 
the town of Cornwall to Dickenson’s landing; it is 11 miles long; has 
6 locks, each 270 feet long and 45 feet wide, with a total rise or lock¬ 
age of 48 feet; the depth of water on the sills is 14 feet; the breadth 
of the canal at the bottom is 100 feet and at the water surface 164 feet. 
The old lift locks, 200 feet long and 45 feet wide, with 9 feet water 
on their sills, are also available. 

River St. Lawrence. —From the head of Cornwall canal to the 
foot of Farrans Point canal the distance on St. Lawrence river 
is 5 miles. 

Farrans Point canal, Ontario, overcomes Farrans Point rapid; 
descending vessels run the rapid with ease and safety. The canal is 
1 mile long; and has 1 lock 800 feet long and 45 feet wide (this lock 
enables the full tow to be passed at one lockage) ; there is also an 
old lock 200 feet long and 45 feet wide; the total rise or lockage is 3J 
feet; the depth of water on the sills of the new lock is 14 feet, and on 
those of the old lock 9 feet; the breadth of the canal is 90 feet at the 
bottom and 154 feet at the w T ater surface. 

River St. Lawrence. —From the head of Farrans Point canal 
there is a navigable stretch of 10J miles on the St. Lawrence to the 
foot of Rapide Plat canal. 

Rapide Plat or Morrisburg canal, Ontario, extends from Mor- 
risburg, just below Rapide Plat, to Flaggs bay, enabling vessels 
ascending the river to pass the rapid at Rapide Plat; descending ves¬ 
sels run the rapid safely. This canal is 3§ miles long; it has 2 locks, 
each 270 feet long and 45 feet wide, with a total rise or lockage of 11£ 
feet; the depth of water on the sills is 14 feet; the breadth of the 
canal is 80 feet at the bottom and 152 feet at the water surface. 

River St. Lawrence. —From the head of Rapide Plat canal to 
Iroquois, at the foot of Galops canal, the distance on the St. Law¬ 
rence is 4^ miles. 


550 


GREAT LAKES. 


Galops canal enables vessels to overcome the rapids at point aux 
Iroquois, point Cardinal, and Galops; it is 7£ miles long, and has 3 
locks, of which 2 are 270 feet long and 45 feet wide, and one 800 
feet long and 45 feet wide, with a total rise or lockage of 15J feet; 
the depth of water on sills is 14 feet; the breadth of the canal is 80 
feet at the bottom and 144 feet at the water surface. 

Farrans Point, Rapide Plat, and Galops canals are collectively 
known as the Williamsburg canals. 

St. Lawrence river from the head of Galops canal to Kingston, 
Ontario, and Cape Vincent, New York, at the entrance to lake 
Ontario, a distance of about 70 miles, is naturally navigable, and the 
water is deep. 

Lake Ontario is the eastern and smallest of the great lakes; it 
is 198 miles long and 54 miles broad at its widest part; its greatest 
depth is 738 feet, and its surface is 247 feet above mean sea level and 
326 feet below lake Erie. Its basin drains 29,760 square miles, in¬ 
cluding the lake surface of 7,250 square miles. Its principal tribu¬ 
taries are the Niagara, Genesee, and Oswego rivers on its southern 
shore, and the Trent on its northern shore. 

The principal Canadian ports on the lake are Kingston, Toronto, 
and Hamilton. Oswego is the principal United States port. 

Murray canal, extending through Murray isthmus, situated about 
57 miles westward of Kingston, gives connection between the head¬ 
waters of bay of Quinte and lake Ontario, enabling vessels to avoid 
open lake navigation. The length of the canal is 5J miles; the 
breadth at the water surface is 120 feet and at the bottom 80 feet, 
and the depth 11 feet; there are no locks. 

Welland canal connects Port Dalhousie, situated about 32 miles 
from the western end of lake Ontario, with Port Colborne, near the 
eastern end of lake Erie, avoiding Niagara river and falls. It has 
tw T o entrances at Port Dalhousie, one for the old and the other for 
the new canals, as there are two lines from Port Dalhousie to Allan- 
burgh, a distance of Ilf miles, whence to Port Colborne there is only 
one channel. The whole new canal is 26f miles long; it has 26 locks, 
each 270 feet long and 45 feet wide, with a depth of 14 feet over the 
sills, and a total rise or lockage of 326f feet. 

Welland canal has two branches, one, Welland river, from Port 
Robinson (2 miles southward of Allanburgh) to Chippewa, on Nia¬ 
gara river at 3 miles above the falls; the other, from near Welland 
town, by canal feeder, to Port Maitland on lake Erie, 17 miles westward 
from Port Colborne. The length of the Chippewa branch is 8J miles, 
the dimensions of the smaller of the two locks, 150 feet by 26^ feet, 
and depth of water nearly 9 feet. The length of the Port Maitland 
branch is about 18 miles, with one lock 185 feet long, 45 feet broad, 
and 11 feet water over the sill. 


LAKE ERIE—LAKE HURON. 


551 


Works are in progress at Port Colborne to enable vessels drawing 
20 feet water to enter the head of the canal and transfer their cargoes 
through elevators into vessels suitable for navigating the canals to 
Montreal. 

Navigation westward.— -From the head of Welland canal there 
is navigation through lake Erie, Detroit river, lake St. Clair, St. 
Clair river, lake Huron, and St. Mary river to the Sault canal, a 
distance of about 580 miles. 

Lake Erie, the southernmost of the great lakes, is nearly elliptical 
in shape, its greatest length, east and west, being 2G0 miles, and its 
greatest breadth, north and south, 58 miles. Its area is about 10,000 
square miles; its surface is 573 feet above mean sea level, and 326 feet 
above that of lake Ontario, this great descent being taken up by 
Niagara river and falls. Its shores are generally bold and high. 
The peculiar features of the lake are its shallowness, the greatest 
recorded depth being 210 feet, and the depth, excepting eastward and 
southeastward of Long point, rarely exceeding 102 feet, and its clayey 
shores. There is an immense trade on the lake. 

Erie canal, in United States territory, connects Buffalo on lake 
Erie with Troy and Albany on the Hudson river, and with lake 
Ontario at Oswego. The canal from Buffalo to Albany is 351 miles 
long and it has a depth of 7 feet; it is 70 feet wide at the surface and 
524 feet at the bottom, and it has 72 locks, each flO feet long and 
18 feet wide. It accommodates vessels up to 240 tons. 

Ports. —There are few harbors on the Canadian shores of lake 
Erie, but on the United States side there are ten great ports dredged 
to accommodate the largest lake steamers. 

Detroit river, St. Clair lake and river, connecting lakes Erie 
and Huron, are practically one river enlarged in the middle by lake 
St. Clair, which is about 25 miles across and shallow. Navigation 
is afforded to vessels drawing 20 feet, to which depth channels have 
been dredged through the shallows. The city of Detroit is near the 
head of Detroit river on the United States side, and it has deep water 
alongside its numerous wharves. The town of Windsor is on the 
Canadian side, and it is the terminus of several railways. 

The Canadian town of Sarnia and the United States town of Port 
Huron, Mich., are at the mouth of St. Clair river, and they are con¬ 
nected by the Grand Trunk railway, which passes through a tunnel 
under the river. 

Lake Huron is 221 miles long from St. Clair river to Spectacle 
reef, and it is 98 miles across on the parallel of 45° N. latitude. It 
has a greatest depth of 750 feet, and is 581 feet above the sea. The 
northern and northeastern shores of the lake are sandstone and lime¬ 
stone, and where metamorphic rocks are found the surface is broken 


552 


GREAT LAKES. 


and hilly, rising to elevations of 600 feet or more above the lake, 
while the southern shores are comparatively flat and of great fertility. 

Georgian bay lies in the northeastern part of lake Huron. Depot 
harbor, on the northeastern shore of the bay, is a natural harbor, 
about 660 yards wide, deep enough to accommodate the largest ves¬ 
sels employed on the lakes, and perfectly safe in all winds. In con¬ 
nection with the harbor the Canada Atlantic Transit company oper¬ 
ates between Chicago, Milwaukee, Duluth, and Depft harbor a num¬ 
ber of steamers of 4,000 to 7,500 tons. These vessels make return 
trips every week, and each has a capacity of 130,000 to 275,000 bushels 
of corn. Large quantities of flour, pork, starch, etc., are also trans¬ 
ported for British and continental ports. The wharves and other 
facilities of Depot harbor were built by the Canada Atlantic railway, 
of which it is the western terminus. 

Owen sound, on the southwestern shore of the bay, is the center 
of an extensive agricultural district; it is the terminus of branches 
of the Canadian Pacific and Grand Trunk railways. Several lines of 
steamers run to and from Owen Sound. Meaford, CollingAvood, 
Penetanguishene, and Midland are shipping places in the southeast¬ 
ern part of the bay, connected with branches of the Grand Trunk 
railway. 

Algoma Mills is situated on the northern shore of North channel 
of lake Huron; i.t is a station on the Canadian Pacific railway. An 
extensive lumbering business is done here, and some 75,000 tons of 
coal are annually imported. 

The most important port on the United States side is Bay City, 
at the head of Saginaw bay, in Michigan. 

Mackinac strait (pronounced Mackinaw) leads from the north¬ 
western part of lake Huron into lake Michigan; it is 3J miles wide 
in its narrowest part. The water in the strait is generally deep, and 
the shoals near the usual routes are marked by lighthouses, liglitves- 
sels, or buoys. Railway ferry ice-breaking steamers ply across the 
strait. 

Lake Michigan is the second largest fresh water lake in the 
world; its length, in a north and south direction is 320 miles, with 
an average width of 65 miles; its area is 22,400 square miles. Its 
surface is 581 feet above the mean level of the sea, and it has a great¬ 
est depth of 858 feet. The lake, which is wholly within the United 
States, is connected by canal with Illinois river, and so with the gulf 
of Mexico. The shores of the lake are generally low and sandy, and 
the land rises gradually from them. The land in the vicinity of the 
lake is very fine for agricultural purposes, and there is an enormous 
trade in all grains, fruits, live stock, and lumber, with their products. 


ST. MARYS RIVER-LAKE SUPERIOR. 


553 


Chicago, Ill., the principal port in the lake, is in its southwestern 
corner. The number of vessels arriving and departing from the port 
is greater than that of any other port in the United States, though 
the tonnage is less than that of New York. The number of vessels 
making direct passages to Europe is increasing. Many railways enter 
the city, and afford facilities for transporting goods to all parts of the 
country. The grain elevators are noticeable, vessels being loaded and 
unloaded by machinery. The principal trade is in live stock, pork 
and beef packing, and other products of the farm and dairy, flour, 
grain, seed, iron and steel manufactures, leather, shoes, chemicals, 
wine, brewing and distilling, cigars, tobacco, etc. 

Milwaukee is in Wisconsin and is, next to Chicago, the largest city 
on the lake, and is situated on the shore of Milwaukee bay on the 
western side of the lake. It has a large commerce, and vessels now 
vail there direct from Europe. 

St. Marys river is the connecting link between lakes Huron and 
Superior, and it is 82^ miles in length from Detour point on lake 
Huron to Iroquois point on lake Superior. The only places of any 
importance are the Canadian and United States towns of Sault Ste. 
Marie, situated on either side of the river near St. Marys rapids 
(Sault is pronounced Soo). At these rapids the river descends 22 feet 
in f mile. Canals are constructed to avoid St. Marys rapids. 

Sault Ste. Marie canal, the Canadian canal, is cut through red 
sandstone rock on the northern side of the rapids; it is crossed by a 
swing bridge of the Canadian Pacific railway. The canal is 5,967 feet 
in length, and it has one lock, 900 feet long and 60 feet wide, having 
a depth of 20 feet 3 inches on the sills at the lowest known level, and 
a total rise or lockage of 18 feet; the breadth of the canal at the 
bottom is 141 feet 8 inches, and at the surface 150 feet. 

The present depth of the lower approaches to this canal is limited 
to the accommodation of vessels of 17 feet 6 inches draft, but they are 
being deepened to 21 feet 6 inches, which will enable the depth of the 
lock to be utilized to its full extent. 

St. Marys Falls canal, the United States canal, on the southern 
side of St. Marys rapids, is 7,000 feet in length, with a least width of 
108 feet at a movable dam at its upper end. It has one lock, 800 feet 
long and 100 feet wide, with 21 feet water on the sills, and a rise or 
lockage of 18 feet. 

Both canals are lighted by electric arc lights; and they are free 
from toll. 

Lake Superior is the largest lake in the world; its greatest length 
is 412 miles and breadth 167 miles; its area is 31,200 square miles; its 
greatest depth about 1.008 feet. The surface of the lake is 602 feet 
above the mean level of the sea. The water is cold, its temperature 


554 


GREAT LAKES. 


not rising much above freezing point even in midsummer, and it is 
very clear. Mirage is frequent and deceptive. Nipigon, Black, and 
Thunder bays, on the northern side of the lake, contain good an¬ 
chorages. 

From the Sault the distance through lake Superior to Port Arthur 
is 2G6 miles, and to Duluth 400 miles. 

Port Arthur, in Thunder bay, is an important station of the Cana¬ 
dian Pacific railway. Duluth is a port of the United States in the 
western end of the lake, and it is connected with the railway system of 
the United States. The city of Superior is 5| miles southeastward 
of it. 

Surveys. —The hydrographic survey of the Canadian shores of the 
Great lakes is in progress; a vessel has been employed surveying the 
shores of Georgian bay, lakes Erie and Huron since 1883, but no sur¬ 
vey ha^ been made of the shores of lakes Ontario and Superior since 
that of Lieutenant Bayfield, R. N., in 1823-1825. The United States 
shores of the Great lakes were surveyed from 1855-1876, and changes 
are reported as they occur. 

Charts of the Canadian shores of the Great lakes are published by 
the British Admiralty. Georgian bay and North Channel Pilot, gen¬ 
eral sailing directions for Georgian bay and North channel of lake 
Huron, with their many excellent harbors, is published bv the Cana¬ 
dian government. 

Charts of the lakes and United States shores are published by the 
United States Corps of Engineers. 

The sailing directions are published by the United States Hydro- 
graphic Office, under the numbers given in the note at the head of the 
chapter. 

Dry docks. —The principal dry docks on the Canadian shores of 
the Great lakes are at Kingston and Toronto in lake Ontario, Col- 
lingwood and Owen sound in Georgian bay; and on the United States 
shores of the lakes at Buffalo, Cleveland, Lc.rain, and Toledo in lake 
Erie, Detroit on the river of that name, Port Huron on St. Clair 
river, Bay City on lake Huron, Chicago, Manitowoc, and Milwaukee 
on lake Michigan, and West Superior on lake Superior. 

Repairs to hulls, boilers, and machinery can be executed at the 
above places. 

For dimensions of the dry docks, floating docks, and patent slips, 
as well as particulars as to repairs, see Dock book of the British Ad¬ 
miralty, and Docking facilities of the world, published by U. S. Naval 
Intelligence Office. 

Montreal to Ottawa and Kingston. —This route extends from 
Montreal harbor to the port of Kingston, passing through Lachine 
canal (see p. 548), the navigable sections of the lower river Ottawa, 


TRENT CANAL. 555 

and Ottawa canals, to the city of Ottawa, thence by Rideau river and 
canal to Kingston, on lake Ontario, a total distance of 246 miles. 

The sections are, Lachine canal, 8J miles; Lachine canal to Ste. 
Anne’s lock, 15 miles; Ste. Anne’s lock, £ mile; Ste. Anne’s lock to 
Carillon canal, 27 miles; Carillon canal, f mile; Carillon canal to 
Grenville canal, 6J miles; Grenville canal, f mile; Grenville canal 
to Ottawa, 56 miles; Ottawa to Kingston by Rideau navigation, 126J 
miles. The navigable depth is 9 feet from Montreal to Ottawa, with 
locks 200 feet long and 45 feet wide; and 4^ feet from Ottawa to 
Kingston, with locks 134 feet long and 33 feet wide. 

Trent canal.—The term “ Trent canal ” is applied to a series of 
water stretches, which do not form a connected system of navigation 
and are at present efficient only for local use, but, by woij.cs in progress 
and contemplation, it will become a through route between lake On¬ 
tario and Huron. The series is composed of a chain of lakes and 
rivers, extending from Trenton, on the bay of Quinte, through Trent 
river, Rice lake, Otonabee river, lakes Clear, Stony, Lovesick, Deer, 
Buckhorn, Chemung, Pigeon, Sturgeon, and Cameron to lake Balsam, 
the summit water, 165 miles from Trenton; thence by canal and Tal¬ 
bot river to lake Simcoe, and Severn river to Georgian bay, the total 
distance being about 200 miles, of which only about 15 to 20 miles will 
be actual canal. All sections of this work have been contracted for 
and the system will probably be in operation in 1910. 

Montreal, Ottawa, and Georgian Bay canal.—Surveys have 
been made for opening a 14-foot navigation from Montreal to Geor¬ 
gian bay, via Ottawa river, lake Nipissing, and French river, with a 
depth of 16 feet in the open reaches, and locks 280 feet long and 45 
feet wide. Estimates have also been prepared for a 20-foot naviga¬ 
tion by the same route. Some sections of the work are under way. 


Meteorological table compiled from 7 to 15 years' 1 observations. 

[Place.—B elle Isle. Obs. A- Latitude 51° 53' N., longitude 55° 22' W.] 


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[Place.—H eath Point, Anticosti. Obs. A- Latitude 49° 05' N., longitude 61° 42' W.] 


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a 

o 

S 


• >> 


o3 3 4 h ‘ , • , ^ g .B 3 

3 »h £. -r- ^ os k, r„4J o r Q 2 

g-gS&slt^oS 


Ifl ft* 
(N 


00 w 
1 


X) 

B 

03 


42 

O 


,*_i m \q X 

l^ E a 

(D'C flj W 


00 

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£ 














































































































Meteorological table compiled from 8 to 24 years ’ observations. 
[Place.— Quebec. Obs. A. Latitude 46° 49' N., longitude 71° 12' W.] 


558 


Temperature. 

Absolute. 

•aSuBH 

MOHOiOOiO'ONOOM'N 

0 Hifl'I'HdO'ONtOfflOiN 

aot'.t'-.aoi^ciroiocoooooo 

1130.3 

1 

^ i 

•ujjv 

MNi0CO«5O«O1<OIN 

0 H H <PJ c4 OO 1-H Q CO <N "4 Tji 00 
COCCIM HCOVMNr-i>-i(N 

Mil II 

1-34.3 

•XBJ\[ 

fl)NO>OOO l OOOP'l ,1 0 

° i^>Ti5e4o>o6c'iiocdoorHO'^ 
J3*^»ot^ocojo»o>co<»«o»o 

96.0 

Barometer. 

Absolute. 

•UJK 

• ■^rnMNacoaii-100 00‘C - ^' 
t oaot'~ocirHco<PJC'OtO''r l <MOsoc 
e. 

^oooooocsosCTiaiOiOOJOOoo 

1 28.71 

GO 

•XBK 

.hOOhOhhNhOWN^ 

Oor^oooo^oio^^coiooi^oo 

►Sooooooooocfoo 

cocococococoeococooococo 

30.88 

•s2oj SifBp jo jaqurnN 

o rH H rH1 O O O rH rH 04 rH 

05 

oo 

•saiBS s^ep jo aaqran^ 

OOOOJOO^COWCO^OOO 

rH rH rH 

r>- 

Wind. 

Number of days from— 

Calm. 

rH rH rH rH rH O O O O rH rH rH 

00 

NW. 

ooco-'fdicocococo-'C'ioooeo 

05 

CO 

£ 

COOON'V^NNOOOCDOOOO 

00 

£ 

CO 

OONNCOCONNNNNOJ 

T}1 

00 

to 

O O* rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH CD 

05 

SE. 

O O O O >-i >-i r-1 C<» o o • 

CO 

E. 


05 

rH 

NE. 

Giis»o:rc<M050or^iOoc^co 

rH rH 

04 

O 

rH 


rH O rH 04 rH rH 04 04 rH rH rH rH 

Tt< 

rH 

•ajBos qjoj 
-UBag; ‘aojoj 


04 

Rain. 

•s^Bp 

jo aaquin^ 

(M (N Tr N ^ IQ x> lO ni 05 cc 

rH rH rH rH rH rH 

»o 

, CO 

rH 

% 

TTO moj, 

teHCiCcocoocos^ocoeo 

g'^COOCMNWOOCOOOO 

*'■< o rn ct co cd H H cd c4 —i 

o 

co 

04 

•^unouiB 

uBaux ‘oi oj o ‘spnojo 

(OOOOOC0^CONN 

co 

s 

‘iCjipjuinq aAij'Bia'U 

(Nr-cc^(^»oooDoa>iOM 

oooooor^t^t^t>*r^oot^oooo 

£ 

00 

Temperature. 

Mean. 

Min. 

° HO^CJHHdlONOCCOj 
H<M^iO»O^OTfcO<DJ 

31.0 

. 

I 

Max. 

up-^OOcOrHCOCCiMiCiOiCCO 

° oocioio-HH-ico^dicco 
HWeO^ONNN^CiQCOCl 

00 

•aSuBj 
jfjIBp UBOH 

OCO^^OlO'OrHNHOilQ 
° soo-jffloodootd'i'Hi' 

rH rH rH rH 04 04 04 rH r -1 rH rH rH 

00 

co 

•UBapj 

COON^CO(NH0TfOCTtlT}1 

0 05 cd .4 O -4 cs K CO ifj cvi 03 id 
"-<<NCO l O<OcO«5iO't'iMi—I 

39.0 

(M 

Barometer, 
reduced to 
32° and sea 
level. 

•aSuBj 

amaa^xg 

JNNOOWOOOOOCMMOC^O 

gOOHOS^HHCOOOCOXO 

rH 04 rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH 04 

2.17 

oo 

•jqStaq ubbjv 

.OKCOa5^05HWH040H 

eoOOOOOOOOOOCOO 

52. 

COOOOOOPCJOCOO 
^ CO 04 04 04 04 04 04 04 C0CC CO CO 

29. 96 

- 

Month. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June. 

July. 

August. 

September. 

Octoher. 

November. 

December. 

Means and totals... 

Years’ observations 







































































































Meteorological table compiled from 8 to S3 years' observations. 

iPlace.— Charlottetown. Obs. a Latitude 46° 14' N., longitude63° 07' W.] 


559 


Temperature. 

Absolute. 

a3ung 

o ... 

OOtOtOOOCOrt^NHrHOOl 

t—«oco;eioiaTT'Tj5iou5»osc 

114.7 

* rH 

<N 

-mpt 

00 IN 00 cO (N IN >-i •'T N 05 

«5cdTj'c^iocoe«5»0'crioeot>: 
nhh cs eo co n »-t 

III 1 

-26. 7 

xnpt 

NOONOrl<OfflONOOOOO 

r^cocjoosuot^oowjcdoiiN 

‘O^iOI^-t^-oOOOoOoOt^cOUO 

o 

28 

Barometer. 

Absolute. 

-mpt 

•S; i: 3£'£;'-' 00i:s| <^ co, «<nc© 
Coc0i0t^.o0f-Ir-I0<e*5 00 05 00 c0 

.. 

►Soocoooooc5050505oooooooo 

^<NiNN(NiN<N<N<NNNNN 

28.52 

’ rH 

•xnpt 

6}0iG005Oi0^i0M ,, 1 , ONCi0 

.. 

1^000000000000 

cocoeoeoecfocofoeocoe'^eo 

30.94 1 

| ‘sSoj sAnp jo jaqumM 

OHrtOHOOHHrtHH 

o 

rH 

rH 

, ‘sainS sAnp jo aaqum^t 

MNMhOhOhhhww 

Oi 

rH 

rH 

Wind. 

Number of days from— 

Calm. 

■.0^'-c0c0»0^-c0co^0^0•'a^•^ , 

o 

> oo 

NW. 

S)>OiOCONNlMMiOcONN 

to 

£ 


rH 

to 

sw. 

coc^co^^^r^cot^r^toto 

to 

CO 

OJC^COrH^Tjmjl^COC^rHrH 

rH 

CO 

w 

CO 

ON«NNNhNHHM(N 


hi 

Wh^n^Whnhhhh 

18 I 

NE. 

coco^r^tococ^c^c^coco-^ 

rH 


iN(N--*(NC«S<N<NiN<Ne<5C<5<N 

co 

<N 

•ainos JJOJ 
-nnag ‘OOJO.J 

rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH 

rH 

TT 

rH 

Rain. 

•sAnp 

jo laqumjsj; 

OtOt^OcOrjiiOrrCO^JC^QO 

rH rH i-H r—t rH rH i-H rH 

Tjl 

CO 

, co 

rH 

•IIBj irjox 

(JQOO^COINO^COOOOIOOQ 

gNHN00050N' , J'OiOCO 

^O'-i'-i'-ioicocococO'q'iN^-i 

30. GO 

•^UnOUTB 1 ^cOOCDOOOOvDNNN 

UBaur ‘oi oi o ‘spnojo ( 

CO 

o 

IN 

■Ajjpimnq oajjbioh 

cor^Tfooioi'-CiCiooococo 

oooooot^t^r^t^r^t^oooooo 

rH 

00 

CO 

rH 

Temperature. 

Mean. 

Min. 

NOINOCOOOHO*ONN^ 

° ffiHoidoioiNccoddoo 

i-iHcqcO'5 | >ou5ioireoH 

34.4 

•2 

Max. 

»OOOOON‘OOTP05iOOO^ 

a >CNwcocod(Nd^c5HH 
WlNCO-^iOONNcCO^CC 

49.1 

•a3um 
Aqnp unapt 

WO^MOJNiO^f’I’OOOC 

rH H rH rH H rH rH rH rH rH rH rH 

14.7 

•unapt 

OWOOOJWXiOOXO^’H 

° doo^doNN^fTrNNidid 
HHlMCOTOCCiO^COCS 

41.4 

CO 

CO 

Barometer, 
reduced to 
32° and 
sea level. 

•aSuni 
auioa jx a 

•OONOXXXCINCOCX 

JWMhCiO^WMOOOOIh 

^*"H (N rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH C'J 

2. 42 

rH 

•jq8iaq unapt 

.iOOQOJQ^hhiOhOJ^W 
coOXCOOOiOOiC. OOJCbOJ 
~. 

29. 93 

CO 

Month. 

J anuary. 

February. 

March... 

April. 

May. 

June. 

J ulv. 

August. 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

Means and totals. 

Years’ observations 












































































































560 


«<8 

i 

o 

•r 


C3 

I 


-o 

o 


% 




o 

Co 


o 

<w 

r-»j 

•e» 


o 


tO 

a 


« 

©> 

*<s> 

Cs> 

O 

*—-j 

o 

5~ 

o 




£ 


o 

o 

to 

03 

T3 

3 

’5) 

3 

o 




o 

CO 

'S' 

O) 

-3 

3 

+2 

a3 


< 

tn 

,3 

o 

Q 

£ 

< 

G 

00 

h-l 

s? 

o 

e-i 

w 

05 

pq 

w 

G 

H 

a 

I 

►< 

w 

S5 

G 

t« 

CQ 

I 

© 

o 

a3 

S 


Temperature. 

Absolute. 

•aSurag 

OOOOt'IMr-icOCOCOOOOO 

cot-^ofPr-ico , 3''-4ooi'-'^'c < i 

00t'-00t'-tC'<3*OiO‘O‘©l''-t^ 

© 

© 

rH 

rH 

. ^ 

CM 

•uxpi 

OONN'ti^^lN^'OOO 

ic^p^dwoowoooiwt-^ 

CM CM CM CM <M CO CO CM CM hH 

II 1 1 II 

—25.0 

•XtJH 

OOCO^OiOOOOMOO 

OOfCCNfOH^OOOH^CO 

lOtOiC^OOaoOClOOX'sDO 

91.5 

Barometer. 

Absolute. 

•uik 

.t'OOOeOOOiOMOlKJiO 
aoic»0t^03i0>0>'-'’—1 O 00 N 'l' 

►Soooooooooooicrloiojoooood 

^(N(NIN<NO)C<(N(N(N(NIN(N 

28.45 

, 

rH 


Ins. 
30.92 

30.95 

30.94 

30.66 

30. 62 

30.50 

30. 53 

30. 41 

30. 56 

30. 66 

30. 84 

30.82 

30.95 

•sSoj sAbp jo jaqmnK 

HrtfqtO'JINNNiMINC^IN 

© 

CM 

rH 

•saj^S s^p jo joqum^ 

NIMMHHHOOOINHM 

© 

rH 

> 00 

Wind. 

Number of days from— 

| 

o 

©©©co^co^r^^©©© 

Tf 

© 

i 

Oit't^N®lO'fMNNCC© 

8 

© 

CM 

£ 

■^CCW(NHHH(N(N(NCCCO 

sw. 

C»OI>h*OHCO^HHNC 

rH rH rH rH rH rH 

rH 

rH 

CO 

rH © H O *"H rH H rH rH rH © 

oo 

SE. 

rH »-H CM rH r-H CM t-H CM r-H r-H r-H CM 

© 

rH 

W 

r-H CM CM CO CM CM r-H rH r-H r-H r-H r-H 

00 

rH 

NE 

CMCOCO©©^CMCOCMCOCOCO 

00 

CO 

£ 

r-H r-H CM CM *“H r-H r-H r-H r-H r-H r-H r-H 

rfl 

rH 

•ajBos jjoj 
- nraag ‘aojog 

rH rH rH r-H r-H rH r-H r-H r-H rH rH r-H 

rH 

rH 

.3 

c3 

PS 

•sAnp 

jo iaquin>i 

t^©ooo©^©^co©cooo 

r-H rH rH r-H rH rH r-H rH 

40.63 138 

. © 
rH 

qiBj iujox 

C^CM*Ot^-©OOrHCM^rHCOCOCO 

£»^©©r--©©©©CM^Tt^CM 

k ~'C'ir-5e4c4roco'^ 5 coeo'^'<jico 

•junouro 

tream ‘oi oj o ‘spnojo 

NONNNNNCDOt^XQO 


CO 

CM 

•Xjipimnq aAijiqag 

NNiOCNNCC-lHCl^tN 

oooooooot^t'-oooooooooooo 

CM 

00 

rH 

Temperature. 

Mean. 

Min. 

t^t^©CM©O0©O0t^rH©© 

o. 

CMCMOOCOcDiOM^NOHH 

HHHCMfC^»OiO^COfC(M 

33.5 

• s 

Max. 

0 CO ©© CM rH CM © 00 © CM rH 

©©©TtiCMrHt^CM©^^^ 

CMCMCO' , J 1 ©©©l>-©© , <T'CO 

49.2 

•afkrai 
jfgcp u'Bopf 

Q COC5HiONCONNHiO(NO 
©©t-.©©©cot^o6©cocM 

rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH rH 

15.7 1 

•uboh 

^ © © © CO © CO CM CM ^ 00 CM 

0. 

I ©©©lOrr^HHCO©©^^ 

CMCMCMCO''K©©©©^rCOCM 

41.3 

© 

CO 

Barometer, 
reduced to 
32° and 
sea level. 

•03toj 
amajjx a 

•©©oo©©o^©cor^©t^ 

gcOTf*rHt^©COCOCM©t^OCO 
^""H CMCMCMrHrHrHrHrHrHrHCM CM 

2. 50 

tH. 

rH 

•jqStaq uraapf 

.rH©00©©COCO©rH00^^f 
CO©0000©©©©©0©©00 
C*. 

►^©©©©©©©©o©©© 

CMCMCMCMCMCMCMCMCOCMCMCM 

29.93 

© 

CM 

Month. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June.. 

July. 

August. 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

Means and totals. 

Years’ observa- 
i tions. 

F" pp>! ijgS 
















































































































Meteorological table compiled from 8 to 29 years' observations. 



•ai^os ^iojnr?ag 
‘aojoj puiA\ uinurrx'Bpf 

05OC50i00t'»N^N0505O 

*""* t —1 

O 

rH 

00 


6 

H 

;3 

i 6 

•aSuug 

OtOOOOOOiO'fiNiOOM 

° o>£5co^t<'iO'^'cdo6t^oc'id'^ 
OOt>f't^CDlOTt'^T'U , 555oOCO 

119.9 



44> 

03 

*H 

<D 

04 

a 

a> 

Eh 

Absolut 

•ujk 

o-^nooio^ooHioosN 

o <d'ji id 00 c4 GO CO ed .-4 id 
INNH 

M 1 II 

o 

o 

(N 

1 

. -a* 

(N 



owwosoaHMooH 
° 4r^qoelo6c4ed<Nesoo6o 

lOioidococoiojasosooSia 

93.9 



Barometer. 

Absolute. 

'M 

•SS t ^ NO( *c i 3eN^^N 

!o®ooooH^HHTfoioo® 

^cccpccojaiaiaicsccoscdao 

<M<NCN<N<N<N<N<M<N<N<N<N 

§ 

CO 

CN 

CO 



.<ffl.-HcD<NOCt^COiO<NCO<pcO 

eoffiOfflaoiONCOOt'Ot-l 

sg . 

kCO^-OCOCOOCO-H-H 

cocococococococococococo 

31.13 

t-H 


•sSoj s.£i?p jo jaqumjs[ 

NhhhhOOOHCIWW 

CO 

rH 

lO 

r-H 


■sajuS sAcp jo iaqiunjs[ 

CO-H(MCCOCO(MO(NCONN 

t-H t-H 

rr 

CO 


r—> 

£ 



Calm. 

T—tOOOOOOOO^HOrH 

CO 


CO 

o 

CO 


| 

NW. 

COCO'3<<N<N-'}<C®<NC®<NCC<N 

CO 

CO 


CD 

T3 

3 


B 

o 

Sh 

£ 

®COiOMiO®lONffliOU5iO 

co 


■M 

*5d 

a 

O 


m 

>> 

d 



3 


& 

”6 

B 

o 

m 


• »o 

> 00 

O 

CO 

o 


5 

,Q 

| 

SE. 

HHCOCOWWWrHWNCOW 

1C 

<N 


40 

o 


5? 


<Ni-l.-<.-ICO<N<N<N<NrT<<N<N 

t-H 

04 


-4—> 

4^ 



NE. 

(NC1CQ^CO(MCOhhC1CO(M 

O 

CO 


A 




lOTtiTjiioiocccoiOTtiioco'O' 

o 

lO 


<1 

7} 


•ait?os pioj 
-nBag'aoiog 

INMNMNNNINNIMINN 

04 


33 

O 

d 

JO 

•sAep 

jaqiunjsr 

^TJIOHOOO^COOINO 

t-H t-H r-H t-h t-h t— < H r—1 

134 

CO 

► t-H 

►4 

h 

w 

pj 

*3 

« 

-\m FJOj, 

,:oo®®ocffi®Ti*oa,H’t 

j235C5COiOCi.--H^COC®''rcO 

HocOi-HiNcoHcdodedcNi-H 

28.16 

E-i 

O 

•^unouiB 

uuaiu ‘oi oj o ‘spnoio 

o®eoooiaoo®Nt' 

CO 

C4 

a 

l 

•iqipuunq aAi^cjag 

^COCOOnOOHCOONHrf 

ococr^ocor^i^t'-t'-r-ccco 

CO 

CO 

t-H 

[Place 


a 

a 

Min. 

OiHCOCOiOINiOHNOOINiO 

° lOoiccddcrHc’^NOci 

HCO^OC'sOOCOMh 

00 

CO 



£ 

3 

44> 

d 

f-i 

1 

Max. 

(MOHO^HLONrnNH^ 

° (N^rcoo^cor^iot^c^octc 

C* <M CO O CO *» t> CO lO CO 04 

50.4 

*o 

t-H 


<D 

ft 

s 

<U 

E-i 

•aSu^i 
AtfBp u^apf 

NOJOOWHOJC-O^CiOOi 
° cd^fTjit^ooiOttjididrriaicd 

r— 1 t-H t-H t-H r-H t-H t-H t-H t-H t-H r-H t-H 

15.6 



•uuajv 

CCCOHNiOOSiOMNCOON 

0 citDddio-fl'dNfflio^oo 

riHM'fl'iOsafflOir'MH 

Sf 

CO 

CO 


Barometer, 
reduced to 
32° and sea 
level. 

•aSuT?! 
auiaa % x g 

.;ccthc5ioooo5^mo(N‘Oc 

gClMC^CCOiOCC^NCH 

CO 

CO 

oi 

CO 

t-H 


•-jqStaq ucapf 

.iOOiOvOCOOOiO(M<Mr-HfO 

ccooa.coooioccoo 

^ocQaioigidciddcd 

^COCOCMOHMC^(N(NCOCOCOCO 

29. 9S 

Oi 


Month. 

January. 

February. 

March.... 

April. 

May. 

June. 

July . 

August . 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

Means and 
totals. 

i rJ1 

h a 
o.2 

H4> 

* d 

73 > 

ce o> 

O C Q 
>* 

•fW 


50918—08-3G 

































































































INDEX. 


A* -W' uSBB? Page. 


Abattis, I’. 499 

Abercrombie point. 150 

Aggermore rock. 169 

Agwanus river. 379 

Aid islet. 360 

Aigle, cap k 1’, Coudres island, light. 501 

-Murray bay, light.458 

-ile k P, range lights. 539 

Airey, cape. 360 

Aitkins point, shoal, buoy. 223 

Albany. 532 

Alberton. 243 

Albion mines. 147 

Alchorn point. 199 

Alcide rock. 318, 321 

-clearing marks. 321 

Aldouin river. 184 

Alemek bay, village.272 

Alexander point. 272 

Algernon (South) rock, light.471 

Algoma Mills. 552 

Allanburgh. 550 

Alluvial hill. 409 

Alouette, batture de P.456 

-pointe a P. 456 

Alright island, cape, reef. 84 

Alston point. 278 

American bank. 296 

Amet isle, light. 156 

-shoals. 157 

-sound. 156 

-directions. 160 

-—, tides and tidal streams... 162 

Amherst fort. 200 

-light. 202 

-harbor. 80, 87 

-tides. 92 

-island. 80, 86, 89 

-light. 89 

-village. 87 


Page. 

Ammonite point and reef.386 

Anchor island, reef, Bonne Esp6rance 

bay. 344 

-Saints channel. 384 

Andromache rocks. 88 

Ange Gardien, P, lights. 506 

Annandale village, range lights. 227 

Anse, P, Coudres island.501 

Anticosti island. 93 

-channel north of, current.. 53 

-directions.. 65 

-climate. 94 

-communication. 95 

-fisheries. 94 

-general directions south of. 63 

-ice report. 95 

-lights. 95 

-lightvessel. 64, 95 

-meteorological table.557 

-north coast. 105 

-population. 94 

-productions. 94 

-rivers. 95 

-soundings. 97 

-south coast, current.49, 50 

-to point de Monts, direc¬ 
tions. 67 

Antigonish harbor, village.123 

Antrobus point. 357 

Appeetetat bay. 381 

Apple island. 322 

Arctic current. 49 

Argentaye point. 486 

Arignole cape, reef.315 

Arisaig point, light, village. 143 

Arnold bluff. 301 

Arret, cap d’. 498 

Arthabaska. 525 

Arthur, port. 554 

Artimon bank. 61 


563 










































































































564 


INDEX. 


Page. I 

Atlantic cove. 75, 76 

Audubon point, islets, rocks.371 

Augustin cove. 209 

Aulds creek. 235 

Aux Mouches river. 352 

Aylesbury cape. 238 

Aylmer sound. 357, 360 

-directions. 361 

B. 

Bagot bluff light. 99 | 

Bagotville. 433 

Bague isle light. 538 

--channel. 538 

Baie bank, la, buoy. 499 

-cape de la. 499 

Bailey brook. 143 

Balache point, rock. 116 

-light. 117 

Balance, cape. 309 

Bald, cape. 173 

Baleine point, Coudres island... 498, 500 

Ballantyne cove. 123 

Balsam lake. 555 

Banks point. 227 

Banquereau bank. 60 

Bar light, Pictou. 148 

—— reef, Saguenay river entrance.. 456 

Barachois de Mai baie. 296 

-harbor, Amet sound. 159 

Bare rocks. 364 

Barnaby island. 260 

-—— lower St. Lawrence... 313, 314 

-road. 315 

Barometer. 47 

Barque cove. 431 

Barques, ile du. 529 

Barrett ledges lightbuoy. 443 

Barrier reefs, Five Leagues harbor... 341 

Barrio head. 120 

Bartibog island. 255 

-river. 255, 256 

Basile, point lights. 512 

Basin, Amherst island. 89 

-head, Prince Edward island 230 

'-island. 336 

-Tatamagouche bay. 159 

-The, Bradore bay. 336 

—-Coacoacho bay. 371, 372 

Bason river. 399 

Basque, cape, road. 457 

-harbor. 86 

-island. 322 

-islands, Seven Islands bay.403 


Page. 

Basse bay. 272 

Bathurst harbor, range lights. 278 

-islet. 278 

-town. 268, 279 

Batiscan, range lights, village. 520 

—— river. 519 

Battery point, Charlottetown. 199 

-—--Pictou. 150 

-Restigouche river. 286 

Batture aux Loups Marin. 435 

-de Pile aux Lievres. 443 

-de Pile Blanche. 440 

--des Islets. 506 

-Perron. 521 

-Francoeur; lightbuoy. 523 

-Simon, lightbuoy. 517 

Battures de PAlouette. 456 

--Pile aux Oies. 472 

Bay city. 552 

-Verte. 169 

-directions, tides. 170 

Bayfield island. 121 

Beach point, Murray harbor. 219 

Beacon Hill islet, Bonne Esperance 

bay. 343 

-Little Natashkwan har¬ 
bor. 378 

-- --Watagheistic sound. 364 

-point.. 207 

Bear bay, Anticosti; anchorage.107 

-cape; light, tides. 190 

-- head, Anticosti. 106 

-river. 107 

-tides. 118 

-hill, cape St. Lawrence... 136 

-head. 112 

—*-island, light, gut of Canso.. 112 

-reef, gut of Canso. 112 

-Prince Edward island. 218 

Beaton point. 231 

Beaub&re island. 259 

Beaufils, anse au. 294 

-bay. 294 

Beauharnois canal. 549 

Beaujeu, bank, lightbuoys.473 

-light. 474 

-channel. 474 

-directions. 477 

Beaumont, reefs, lightbuoy. 481 

-village. 481 

Beauport bank. 489 

-village.488 

Becancour point, river, bend.522 

-range lights. 522 
























































































































INDEX. 


Page. 

Becancour traverse. 523, 524 

Becket river. 130 

Becscie river. 95,101 

-telegraph station. 102 

Bedeque bay. 210 

-harbor. 210 

-directions, tides. 212 

Bedford bay. 234 

Belfast pier. 195 

Bell, point, reef, Prince Edward is¬ 
land . 192 

-river. 99 

Belle isle. 325 

-lights. 326 

-strait. 37,325,327 

-anchorages. 332 

-current. 48, 63 

-fogs. 330 

-general directions_331 

-ice, icebergs.41,330 

-landing, navigation. . 331 

-meteorological table.. 556 

-soundings. 328 

--—- tidal streams and cur¬ 
rents. 53, 328 

--—— to St. Lawrence river, 

directions. 63 

-winds. 45 

Bellechasse island; light. 480 

Belledune point. 279 

Bellefine river. 486 

Bellerive park lights. 541 

Bellevue farm. 198 

Belles Amours bay, harbor. 338, 339 

-point. 337 

Bellmouth curve lightbuoys. 534 

Belloni point. 277 

Bergeman point. 167 

Bergeron coves. 425 

-tidal streams. 426 

-point...425 

-village. 425 

Bernache point. 272 

Bersimis point. 420,422 

-river. 420,421 

-range lights. 421 

Berthier, anse de.480 

-East point. 479 

-tidal data. 493 

-trou de. 479 

-village. 479 

Betchewun harbor. 383, 385 

Betts point, buoy. 165 

Betty point. 144 


565 


Page. 

Beurre, ileau. 539 

Bic channel, directions. 318 

-High land of.321 

-island. 316 

-soundings off. 320 

-tides. 319 

Bicoques islets. 315 

Bicquette channel. 317 

-island. 316 

-light. 317 

Bienville village. 482 

Big cove. 187 

-Dick rock. 75 

Bigot, island; lightbuoys. 522 

Billhook island. 238 

-lights. 239 

-point. 221 

Birch channel. 394 

—— islands. 391 

-point. 266 

-light, fog signal.267 

Bird rocks; light, fog signal. 76, 77 

-to Anticosti island, direc¬ 
tions. 65 

Bis islet. 341 

Black bay, Belle Isle strait. 332 

I-lake Superior. 554 

I -brook. 255 

-islet, Kegashka bay. 375 

-Joke cove. 325 

-Lands gully, fishing lights. 187 

-ledge, Watagheistic sound. 364 


-point and rock, cape St. Law¬ 
rence . 136 

-Cascapediac bay. 288 

-— Prince Edward island-193 


west shore of gulf of St. 


Lawrence. 280 

-pond, Prince Edward island... 216 

-reef, cape Airey. 361 

-river, Cove Head bay. 235 

-Vin bay. 254 

-rock point, Prince Edward 

island. 190, 218 

j Blackland point. 246, 260, 262 

| Blackville. 260 

Blanc Sab Ion. l ... 332, 336 

! Blanche, batture de Pile. 440 

| Blaskowitz point. 400 

I Blockhouse point. 199 

j -light. 200 

Blue, cape. 120 

Bluff head, Great Mekattina island.. 353 
-peninsula. 336 










































































































































566 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Boat harbor, Powell point. 146 

-island. 529 

-islands. 362 

Bois Brftl4 cove. 298 

Bold islet, Hare harbor. 358 

-rock, Bonne Esp 6 rance bay_343 

-St. Mary islands. 362 

Bon Amie, point, rocks, light.281 

-D4sir, bay, cape. 425 

Bonaventure island.’... 294 

-tidal streams and currents. 296 

-point, river, village. 289 

-light. 289 

Bonne Esp4rance bay, harbor. 343 

-directions. 344 

-tides.345 

-island. 343 

Boot point. 360 

Boss point, spit. 170 

Bouchagan river. 174 

Bouchard, lie; range lights. 536 

Boucherville channel, range lights.. 539 

-islands. 544 

Boughton bay. 227 

-island, point. 221 , 226 

-ledge. 226 

-or Grand river, range lights.227 

-spit. 227 

Boulard bar. 516 

-range lights. 517 

Boule bay.402 

-islet. 353 

Bouleau river. 399 

Bouleaux point. 174 

Boulet islet. 348 

Boussier bay. 365 

Boutot, mont. 452 

Bowen rocks. 382 

Bowman bank. 121 

-head. 121 

Box river. 100 

Brackley point.... 236 

Bradore bay. 334, 336 

-directions, tides. 337 

-hills. 332,337 

Brae river. 215 

Branche, cape. 499, 501 

Brandy Pot bank. 442 

-channel. 444 

-tidal streams. 443 

--Pots islands. 441,442 

-light. 442 

-tides. 507 


Page. 

Brasd’Or. 29,137 

-St. Nicholas river. 468 

Breaking ledge. 344 

Brideau point. 275 

Brighton beach, range lights. 201 

Broad cove. 132 

Brockelsby head. 206 

-river. 207 

Bruce point. 226 

Brudenell islet. 226 

-point, buoy. 223 

-river. 226 

Bruin, cape. 173 

Bruld bank. 500, 503 

-cape, Gasp4 bay. 299 

-lights, St. Lawrence river. 500 

-cul de sac. 503 

-harbor. 159 

-peninsula, point, shoals. 158 

-point. 272 

Brush wharf, range lights. 196 

Bryon island. 77 

-light. 78 

-water, telegraph cables_ 79 

Buchan point, river. 399 

Buchanan point. 195 

Buckhorn lake. 555 

Buctouche outer bar. 181 

-river. 182 

-buoys and beacons. 183 

-directions, tides. 183 

-road. 181 

-sand bar, light. 181 

-village. 182 

Bull rock, Bradore bay. 337 

Buoyage, Canadian system of. 55 

-season. 56 

Buoys, wreck marking. 57 

Burnt cape ledges. 503 

-church, settlement. 260 

-island, Kamouraska islands.450 

-river. 260 

Byers cove, anchorage. 113 

c. 

Cabane bay. 89 

Cabot strait. 37 

-currents. 48 

-directions. 62 

-ice, the Bridge. 39 

Cacard river. 432 

Cacouna, island, rock, village.446 

Cahil rock. 113 


























































































































INDEX. 


567 


Page. 


Cailles, les. 308 

Calumet river. 411 

Cameron lake. 555 

Camille, mount. 71,312,321 

Campbell cove, Prince Edward 

island. 232 

Campbellton. 287 

-range lights. 286 

Canada, climate, extent. 27 

-communication. 33 

-holidays, money, weights, meas¬ 
ures. 36 

-lightvessels, buoyage. 55 

-physical features and geology... 31 

-railroads. 35 

-standard time. 36 

-storm signals. 47 

-telegraph. 36 

Canal and lake vessels. 547 

Canals above Montreal; navigation 

season. 547 

-and channels above Montreal; 

lighting. 547 

Canard river.456 

Canoe cove. 206 

Canseau point, spit. 200 

Canso bank. 61 

-cape. 61 

-gut of. 37,110 

-anchorages.113 

-caution.. Ill 

-directions. 117 

-ice. Ill 

-railway ferry.113 

-tides and tidal streams 118 

Cantwell point. 162 

Cape Breton island; climate, coal, 

products. 29, 30 

-meteorological table.. 560 

-northwest coast.. 129,130 

-physical features and 

geology. 32 

-west coast. 125 

-George headland. 123 

-John peninsula. 157 

Capes, the. 135 

Caplin river. 289 

Capuchin cove. 309 

Caraquet bank. 276, 277 

-bay, range lights. 275 

-channel. 274 

-harbor. 274 

-island; light. 274 



Page. 

Caraquet shoal. 

. 274 

-village. 

.27fi 

Carey, points, wharf. 

.494 

Cardigan bay. 

.221 

-northeast shore. 

..227 

-point. 

. 221,222 

-headland. 

. 222 

-river. 

.. 221,222,226 

-shoal; buoys. 

. 222 

Cardinal point. 


Caribou bay. 

.272 

-channel, Nova Scotia; directions 155 

-cove. 

. 272 

-harbor. 

. 152 

-directions, tides. 

. 153 

- island, Bonne 

Esp6rance 

bay. 

. 342,343 

-Nova Scotia. 

. 152 

-point, Gull island; light. 153 

-north shore, St. 

Lawrence 

gulf.: 

.411 

-Nova Scotia. 

. 145 

-Shippegan harbor.272 

- reef. 

. 153 

-river. 

.152 

-range lights, 

Saguenay 

river. 

.436 

-West gully. 

. 152 

Carillon canal. 

. 555 

Carleton bay. 

. 284 

-head. 

. 209 

-mount. 

. 281,287 

-mountain range. 

. 288 

-road, village. 

. 287 

Carlisle point. 

...... 269,290 

Carouge.. 

. 512 

-point. 

. 488 

Carousel island; light. 

. 403 

Carron point; lights. 

. 278 

Cascade point, rapids.. 

. 548 

Cascapediac bay, river— 

. 288 

Cascumpeque bay.. 

. 241 

-harbor; lights. 

. 242 

-tides. 

. 139,243 

-narrows. 

. 241 

Cassie point; light, fog signal.179 

Cat rocks.. 

. 358 

Catherine pond.. 

. 126 

Caulfield point.. 

. 162 

Caveau point; range lights. 

. 134 

-shoals.. 

. 135 

Cavendish inlet.. 

. 241 

Cawee islands. 

. 407 


























































































































568 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Cawee ledge; rock. 407 

Cedar rapids. 548 

Center sand. 505 

Central reef. 378 

Centre bank. 328 

-reef...’.. 362 

Chain island. 343 

Chaleur bay. 268, 281 

Chamber point. 159 

Chambly basin, canal. 532 

Champlain canal. 532 

-lake. 532 

-range lights. 521, 522 

-village, point. 521, 522 

-tides. 510 

Chance harbor. 145 

Channel island. 346 

-patch, lightbuoy. 470 

-tidal streams. 476 

Chapel pier. 227 

-rock, Lower St. Lawrence.472 

Charles, cape; range lights. 518 

-channel lightbuoy.518 

-harbor, island, Mingan group... 385 

Charleton point. 106 

Charlo river... 281 

Charlottetown. 189, 204, 205 

•-harbor. 199, 200 

-buoys. 201 

-directions. 203, 204 

-tides. 202 

-meteorological table. 559 

Charlow bank. 229 

Charts, correction of. 7 

-use of. 9 

Chass5, point. 403,404 

-pointe k la. 335 

Chat (Chatte); cape. 302, 308 

-light. 308 

-river. 308 

Chateau bay. 327 

-Richer. 506 

Chatham. 257 

--coal, supplies. 258 

Chaudiere river. 511 

Chemung lake. 555 

Chene bank. 176 

-point. 178 

Chepstow point. 231 

Cheticamp Eastern harbor; range 

lights. 134,135 

-(Chetican) island. 133 

-point. 133 


Page. 

Cheticamp point light. 134 

Cheval point. 250, 254 

Chevaux, ile aux. 482 

Chicago. 553 

Chicoutimi; channel, range lights... 435 

-river. 437 

-town. 436 

-tides. 427 

China point. 195 

Chippewa. 550 

Church point. 181 

Citrouille point; light, lightbuoy.... 521 

Clark city. 404 

Claude river. 302, 306 

-shoal. 499 

Clear lake. 555 

Clearwater point, shoals.386 

Cliff cape. 166 

-island. 482, 483 

-islands. 362 

Clifton. 277 

Clorydorme point. 302, 305 

-range lights. 305 

Close islet. 360 

Cloudberry bay, point. 373 

Cluster point. 359 

Coacoacho bay. 371, 372 

-river. 372 

Coal Mine cove. 131 

-places obtainable. 59 

-point, Merigomish island. 143 

Cobequid range. 32 

Cocagne harbor; head. 179 

-island..' 181 

-point. 174 

-river. 180 

-range lights. 180 

Cochon island. 524 

Cochons, ile aux, light.533 

Cock cove, Beau-fils bay. 294 

-Rimouski county. 312 

-point, Rimouski county. 312 

Cod bank, Natashkwan point. 376 

-Ridge point. 398 

Cody point. 219 

Coffin island, Magdalen islands. 82 

Colborne, port, lake Erie. 550 

Cold Spring head; light. 169 

Cole point. 146 

Collingwood. 552 

Collins shoal. 383 

Colombier, cape. 422 

Colquhoun point. 144 























































































































INDEX. 


569 


Page. 

Columbine shoals. 82 

Colville bay and river. 228 

Comeau rock. 417 

Communication; railroads. 35 

-steamship. 33 

-telegraph, waterways, sledge... 36 

Compass, deviation of. 38 

Confederation point. 512 

Conn house. 159 

Contrecceur bend lightbuoy.:. 535 

-course range lights. 535 

-junction lightbuoy. 535 

-traverse range lights. 535 

-towers range lights. 535 

-village. 535 

Conway inlet; lights. 241 

Corbeau, cape. 461 

-light. 462 

Cormorant cape, islets, reef,.400 

-point, Anticosti. 98 

-point. 366 

-rocks.367 

Corneille cape. 460 

Cornwall canal, town. 549 

Coteau landing, rapids. 548 

Coudres bank. 502 

-island. 500,501 

-anchorage. 502 

Cove head bay, range lights. 235 

-island. 363 

-point. 358 

Cow bay. 29 

Crab island. 348 

Craig point. 360 

Craignish church. 125 

Crane island, light. 473 

-anchorage. 479 

-shoals. 474 

-spit. 483 

-tidal streams. 476 

-to Quebec, anchorage. 488 

--directions. 491 

Crapaud road, channel basin. 206 

-directions, tides. 208 

Crebbing head. 124 

Crescent point. 360 

Critchet cove. 112 

-point. 112 

Crocodile islet. 372 

Croix point. 405 

-to point de Monts. 406 

Crooked bay. 379 

Crooked islands. 408 


Page. 

Cross point. 415 

Crow island, Kamouraska islands.... 450 

-St. Lawrence river. 483 

Crumb island. 346 

Cumberland basin. 169 

-cove. 209 

-harbor. 351 

j -island. 350,351 

Curlew point. 374 

Currents. 48 

Cutter reefs. 3*64 

I). 

Dalhousie bay. 282 

I -(Douglas) island. 282 

-harbor, lights. 282 

-directions, tides. 283 

-hill, Pictou. 148 

-Restigouche river.. 285 

-point. 279,282 

-port, lake Ontario. 550 

-town. 268,284 

Daly island. 358 

Daniel hill. 291 

-port, lights. 292 

Darnley basin, range lights. 239 

-point range lights. 238 

Dartmouth river. 300 

De Monts, point. 412 

---light. 412 

; -Salaberry bay. 357 

Dead cove. 354 

Deadman islet. 89, 90 

-pond. 137 

Dean point. 231 

-shoal. 127 

Deep hole, Shediac harbor. 176 

Deer lake. 555 

Delorier ile, lightbuoy. 538 

-range lights. 536 

Delory island. 121 

Demers rock. 444 

Demoiselle hill... 86 

Depot harbor. 552 

Descent des Femmes. 433 

Deschambault point. 518 

D’Espoir, cape, light. 294 

Detour point. 553 

Detroit, river, city. 551 

1 Deviation of compass. 38 

Diable, cape, Lower St. Lawrence_ 451 

Diamond harbor. 489 






















































































































570 


INDEX. 


Pago. 

Dickensons landing. 549 

Dickson islands. 361 

Diver island. 349 

Dixon point.. 181 

--- range lights. 182 

- rock.:.. 116 

Docks in St. Lawrence gulf and river. 59 
Doctor, island, point, reef, Caribou 

harbor. 151 

-spit. 151 

Dog islands. 346 

Dogs, cape. 457 

Donax point. 276 

Doolan pond, anchorage off. 113 

Doucet. 525 

Douglas island. 282 

Douglastown, Gasp6. 297, 298 

-Miramichi river, light. 258 

Douse point, range lights. 195 

Doyle islands. 360 

-reef. 82 

Duchess point. 201 

Dukes island. 351 

Duluth..... 554 

Dunk river. 210 

Dunn point. 143 

Duns lake.•.. 123 

Dunscomb rock. 473 

Durantaye point. 481 

Dutchman point, rock. 214 

Duthie point, light. 289 

Dyke island. 356 


E. 

Eachren point. 124 

Eagle cape, Anticosti; reefs. 102 

-Lower St. Lawrence. 458 

- harbor. 352 

East cape, Anticosti. 95 

-lightvessel. 95 

-— to Table head; tidal streams. 109 

-Saguenay river. 433 

- Caribou. 152 

- channel, St. Genevieve harbor. 383 

-Seven islands bay.404 

-Magdalen islands. 81 

-lake. 230 

■- patch, Amet shoals. 157 

-point, Appeetetat bay. 381 

-Magdalen islands. 81, 91 

-Pictou island. 154 

-Prince Edward island, 

light, fog signal. 230 


Page. 

East point, Prince Edward island, 

tides and tidal streams. 230 


-reef... 231 

- river, Pictou. 147 

-rock, Bradore bay. 337 

- rocks, Boule bay. 402 

- Saint rock. 382 

Eastern bank, Hillsborough bay.198 

- maritime provinces of Canada.. 27 

- narrows, North Traverse, buoys. 503 

- passage, Amet sound, directions. 161 

Eboulements, bay. 461 

- mount. 454, 460 

- village. 461 

Echaufaud islet. 457 

Echemin river. 490 

Ecureuils bank, les. 514 

Eddy, cove. 113 

- point, light, fog signal. Ill 

- spit, buoy. r . 112 

Eden islands. 357 

Edmundston. 448 

Eel bay. 284 

Egg island, English point... 409, 410, 411 

-light. 410 

- - Miramichi bay. 252 

- rocks. 351 

Egl inton cove and point. 228 

Egmont bank. 214 

-bay, cape, Prince Edward island 

light. 214 

-tides. 215 

Eider islands. 346 

Elie, point h . 84 

Elliot river. 200 

Ellis bay. 102 

-anchorage, directions.103 

-beacons, range lights. 102 

-supplies, tides. 104 

Elm Tree point, light. 280 

Emerald junction. 209 

Emersion point. 125 

Emery, point, island. 371 

-rocks. 372 

Enfer, cap & P. 292 

English bank. 445 

-bay, Anticosti, anchorage, bea¬ 
cons, lights. 105 

-Manikuagan bay. 417 

-point, Egg island. 409 

Enmore river. 215 

Enragee point. 133,135 

Enter island. 349 













































































































INDEX. 


571 


Page. 

Entrance island. 356 

Entry island. 84,88 

-light. 88 

Ephraim island. 169,171 

Erie canal. 532,551 

-lake. 547,551 

Escoumains harbor. 425 

-lies.424 

-river, range lights. 425 

Escuminac point, light, fog signal... 245 

-reef, buoy. 246 

-river. 188 

-village. 246 

Eskimo bay. 334, 345 

-(Esquimaux) channel. 345 

-island. 387 

-islands. 333,342 

-current off. 49 

-harbor.38.7 

-island. 345 

-point. 387 

-range lights.388 

-(town). 388 

-river (St. Paul). 345 

Espoir, cape, light. 294 

Esquamine islets. 424 

-to Little Bergeron cove_425 

Etamamu river. 366 

Etang du Nord. 90 

Eternity, cap P.432 

-cove, river.432 

Evans point. 145 

F. 

Fair island. 345 

Fairway bank. 328 

Falcon point. 201 

Fall river. 399 

Fame point light.. 304 

-current off. 50 

Farrans point canal. 549 

-rapid. 549 

Father point light. 312 

-lightbuoy. 313 

Femmes, descente des. 433 

Ferry point. 200 

Fifteen point, beacon. 214 

-church. 213 

Fin rocks. 357 

Finlay point. 131 

Fish harbor, wood and water. 353 

-island. 238 

-range lights. 239 


Page. 

Fish islet. 343 

Fisherman ledge and channel. 277 

Fishermans bank. 218 

Fishing point, light. 167 

Fitzroy rock, light and whistling 

buoy. 197 

Five Leagues harbor. 341 

-point. 340 

Fixing position. 15 

Flaggs bay. 549 

Flat island, Gasp4 bay. 296 

-light. 297 

-Great Mekattina island_353 

-St. Lawrence river.529 

-islands channel. 534 

Flat point, Cape Breton island.125 

-river. 194 

-rocks.338 

Fleur river, la.487 

Fleurant point. 284, 285 

Flower cove.333 

-ledges.328 

-pot rock, cape Gasp6.298 

Fly bank; lightbuoy.. 489 

Fog bells, submarine. 44 

-signals, general remarks. 12 

Fogs. 42 

Foins, lie aux.533 

-lightbuoy.534 

Force shoal. 525 

Forks buoy. 165 

Fort point.433 

-de l’anse du.488 

-rocks.346 

Forteau bay, anchorage.332 

Fortune bay and river. 228 

Foul rock. 358 

Four fathoms ridge.398 

-rocks. 348 

Fox bay, Anticosti. 94,108 

-gully.246 

-Wallace harbor. 166 

-Miramichi bay. 247, 248 

-lights.247 

-islands, St. Lawrence gulf, 

north shore.352 

--point. 108 

Francoeur, batture, lightbuoy.523 

Fraser farm, Pictou, lights. 148 

Fraserville. 447 

Frechettes islands. 512 

French island and creek. 184 

-river, Georgian bay. 555 



























































































































572 


INDEX. 


Page. 

French river, Merigomish harbor.... 144 

-Miramichibay. 247,252 

-point. 252 

-Prince Edward island.237 

-village.247 

Frenchmans barn. 143 

Friar head. 133 

Frigate harbor. 336 

-point. 302, 305 

Fright channel.389 

-island. 388 

Fullertons bar.286 

G. 

Gaillard, la butte &. 500 

Galantry head. 62 

Gales. 46 

Gallia bay; range lights. 529, 530 

Gallows point. 196 

Galops canal, point. 550 

Garde point.285 

-lightvessel. 286 

-rock.382 

Gascons, anse aux, light.292 

Gaspd basin.300 

-tides. 301 

-bay...297 

-communication.268 

-northeastern shore. 299 

-southwestern shore.298 

-cape.298 

-light. 299 

——--current off. 50 

-harbor. 299, 300 

-peninsula; physical features ... 33 

-village, light. 301 

Gaspereau river. 169 

Gaudin point, spit; buoy. 223 

General navigation. 7 

Genesee river. 550 

Gentilly, range lights. 521 

-village, shoal. 522 

George bay. 119,125 

-tidal streams. 124 

-cape George bay. 118,119,124 

-light. 124 

Georgetown. 225 

-harbor. 221 

-anchorage, entrance, range 

lights. 223 

-tides. 225 

Georgeville. 142 

Georgian bay. 552 


Page. 

Ghost beach. Ill 

Giddis point. 181 

Giles, anse &, pier. 467 

Gilmour cove and mill. 257 

Glac6 bay. 29 

Godbout (Goodbout) river.414,415 

Goddard islet and rock. 343 

Goose cape, light. 460 

-to cape Martin, anchorage, 

tidal streams. 461 

-island. 472 

-*-meadows.472 

-reef, spit. 471 

-lake light, signal station. 269 

-point. 94, 98 

Gore islands. 357 

Gouffre, riviere du. 498 

Governor island, shoals. 197 

Grace, lie de, range lights. 531 

Graham point, ledge, pond. 220 

Grand Entry harbor, light, buoys, di¬ 
rections, lagoon.... 83 

-tides. 92 

-Etang, light, Cape Breton island 133 

-lower St. Lawrence_ 302, 305 

-islands. 343 

-river, Chaleur bay; light. 293 

-Malpeque bay. 238 

-— settlement. 241 

-— Rustico harbor, lights. 236 

Grandance settlement. 136 

Grande Anse settlement. 277 

-Gr&ve. 299 

-island, light. 450 

-Matte river. 306 

-point, lightbuoy. 499 

—— Vallee. 302,305 

-- range lights. 305 

Grandigue bank... 179 

-point. 174 

Grandoon island, buoy. 250 

Grange rock. 371 

Grant beach, range lights. 255 

Grave point. 221 

Gravois point. 162 

Graystone wharf buoy. 165 

Great Bank of Newfoundland. 62 

-Basque island. 403 

—— Bergeron cove. 425 

-Bird rock* light, fog signal. 77 

--- Boule island. 402 

-Cawee island, cove, shoal. 407 

-Chene river.^.518 


























































































































\ 


INDEX. 573 


Page. 

Great Fox river. 302, 303 

- - - range lights, settle¬ 
ment. 304 

-lagoon. 81,91 

-lakes, surveys, dry docks, re¬ 
pairs. 554 

-Mekattina(Mecattina) island. 332,353 

-Owl bay. 371 

-Pabou. 293 

-Pilgrim island. 449 

-Pond (Grand Etang). 305 

-stone. 366 1 

Green island, Eskimo islands. 387 I 

-Kegashka bay.375 

-lower St. Lawrence 322, 445 I 

-light. 323 j 

-reef. 323 j 

-tides. 324, 445 : 

-point, Cape Breton island. 131 I 

-New Brunswick. 264 | 

Greenly island. 335 

-light. 335 

Gr61ons, rocher aux. 472 

Grenville canal. 555 

-harbor, range lights. 237 

Gribanne, cape. 499 I 

Gridley, cape. 86 

Griffin cove. 302, 303 j 

-range lights. 303 j 

-river. 303 I 

Grindstone island. 85,90 j 

-light. 90 j 

-point, light. 277 | 

-village. 85 

Grondine point. 518 

-range lights. 519 

Gros cape. 134 

Grosse isle, Lower St. Lawrence.482, 

484, 485 


Lower St. Lawrence quar¬ 
antine. 314 ! 

Lower St. Lawrence tidal' 


data. 493 

-Magdalen islands. 91, 92 

-patch, rock, buoy. 483 

-tail.485 

-montagne, la. 478 

-Roche settlement, light. 431 

Grues, lie aux.482 

Guard pier. 544 

-— light. 540 

Guernsey cove, point. 190 

Gulf shore settlement. 166 


Page. 


Gull Cliff bay. 109 

-island, Caribou channel.152 

-light. 153 

-Eskimo islands. 387 

-Magdalen islands. 90 

-islet, Mekattina island. 354 

-rock, Brad ore bay. 336 

-spit. 152 

Gully, the. 61 

Gulnare point. 174 

--shoal. 422 

-to Wildfowl reef, caution.. 423 

Gun island. 382 

Guy point. 107 

H. 

Ha ha bay, Belle isle strait. 353 

-lower St. Lawrence.315 

-— Saguenay river. 433 

Hadlow cove. 490 

Haldimand, cape. 298 

-river. 214 

Halifax. 148 

Hamelle harbor. 365 

Hamilton. 550 

Hanson point. 528 

Harbor island. 392 

-point, Belles Amours harbor_338 

Hardwood point. 144 

Hare harbor. 358, 359 

—— island, Lower St. Lawrence, 

beacons. 441 

-Lower St. Lawrence, North 

reef. 440 

---Lower St. Lawrence, South 

reef. 443 

-bank. 443 

-knoll. 443 

Harper point, light. 269 

Harrington islands. 360,361 

Hastings, port. 115 

-anchorage, directions, tides 116 

Haszard point range lights.198 

Havre Bouche, lights, tides.120 

-le, cove. 501 

Hawkesbury, port. 113 

-anchorage, directions.114 

-communication, quaran¬ 
tine, repairs. 115 

Hawksbill point. 155 

Hay island, Miramichi bay; range 
lights. 261 




























































































































574 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Haystack islan'd. 482 

Heart shoal. 170 

Heath point; light, fog signal. 96,97 

-reef. 97 

-tides and tidal streams, 

winds. 98 

-meteorological table.557 

Heffernan point. 117,125 

Henry, cape, Anticosti. 102,107 

-island. 119,127 

-light. 128 

Heron channel. 280 

-island; light. 280 

-rock. 281 

Herring cove. 246 

-point. 269 

Herriot isles. 357 

Hervey cove, point, and reef. 230 

Heu, pointe le. 459 

High cliff point. 106 

-hill. 142 

-land of Bic. 321 

-Mekattina. 332 

-rock. 88 

Hillsborough bay. 194 

-river. 200, 233 

Hird point pier. 210 

Hochelaga range lights. 541 

Holland cove. 113,115 

Hood, port. 126 

-anchorage, directions.128 

-light. 127 

-tides. 129 

-village. 126 

Hope river. 237 

Horseback bar, lightbuoys.518 

Horseshoe bar. 248 

-buoys, lightvessel.249 

-shoal, Miramichi bay. 248 

-buoy. 249 

-shoals, Malpeque harbor.238 

Horton point, shoal, spit. 164 

Hospital cape and rock. 90 

-rock.472 

Hospitals, marine. 59 

Hotteurs river. 399 

House harbor. 85 

-island. 344 

Howe bay.228 

--point. 229 

-port. 168 

Huckleberry island, gully. 246 

Hudson river. 532 

Hughes point. 186 


Page. 

Hulk rock. 391 

Humes hill. 219 

Hunter river. 235 

Hunting island. 382 

Huntley rock. 197 

Huron, lake. 547,551 

-port. 551 

Hydrographic Bulletins. 9 

I. 

Ice, Cabot strait. 39 

-Belle isle strait. 41 

-gulf of St. Lawrence. 40 

-Lower St. Lawrence'.. 41 

-signals respecting. 42 

Illinois river. 552 

Ilot point, beacon. 429 

Indian head. 210 

j -island, Bedeque harbor. 210 

-(Bathurst) islet. 278 

-point, bay Verte. 169 

--Buctouche. 181 

-range lights. 182 

-Cascapediac bay. 288 

-Pillage bay. 383 

-Bestigouche river. 284 

-Shippigan gully. 265 

-rocks. 192 

-spit. 210 

-light. 211 

-town. 260 

Information relating to navigational 

aids.. 7 

Inman rock. 206 

Inner bar, Miramichi bay. 248 

-Birch island. 391 

-islet, Napetepee bay. 348 

Inverness village. 132 

Iron shoal. 525 

Iroquois. 549 

-point aux. 550 

I Island harbor. 354 

I -of Ledges.336 

-shoal. 210 

Isle Verte village. 445 

Islets, batture des. 506 

Isthmus cove. 340 

—— point. 127 

J. 

Jack, cape; shoal buoy. 120 

-shoal. 117 

Jackson point. 170 

Jacquet river. 280 






























































































































INDEX. 


575 


Page. 

James, cape Anticosti. 107 

-Gasp6 bay. 299 

Jareux point. 460 

Jeremy island. 422 

Jerome ledge. 135 

Jerry island. 163 

Jib Sheet shoals. 186 ! 

John bay. 158 

-cape. 156 j 

-river. 158 j 

-village. 158 ! 

Joli, mount. 376 

-port.467 

Joseph point. 107 

Jourimain, cape. 172 

--islands, light. 172 ; 

-shoals. 173 | 

Judique bank, clearing marks. 125 

-shoal, buoy, clearing marks. 125 j 

-village, pond. 126 

Juniper point. 227 

Jupiter river. 95,101 J 

Justaucorps. 127 j 

-point. 128 | 

K. 

Kamouraska bay.. 451 

-islands, village. 450 

Kate point. 127 

Kavanagh point, port Hawkesbury.. 114 I 

Keaton point. 116 | 

Kegashka bay. 374 

-point. 374 | 

-island. 374 | 

-river. 375 j 

Kenneth bank. 193 j 

Kenogami lake. 437 | 

Kettle rock. 365 j 

Kildare, cape. 244 

-river. 241 

King head. 143,144 I 

Kingston. 550 

Knight point. 229 | 

Knoll shoal, buoy.222 

Kouchibouguac bay. 186 

-river.. 187,188 

Kouchibouguacis river. 187 

Kouchibouguet river. 174 

L. 

L’Abattis.499 

L’Anse k l’Eau. 430 

-a Louise...302 

-au Foin village. 434 


Page. 

La Boule point. 430 

La Butte Ronde. 84 

-Croix point. 99 

-Grande baie. 433 

-Romaine. 372,373 

-Table Roulante. 295 

Lac, point du, range lights. 525, 526 

-tides. 510 

Lachance river. 436 

Lachine canal. 548 

-rapids. 547 

-town. 548 

Lake island. 367 

-navigation. 548 

Lalime (Lanim) point. 286 

Langlais point; light. 518 

Lanoraie. 533 

Lapierre, lie k . 530 

Large channel. 392 

-island. 391 

-rocks.407 

Lark harbor, island. 325 

-islet. 428,456 

-light.456 

-reef. 456 

-point. 428,456 

Launching bay. 227 

Laurent shoal. 169 

Laurentian range. 31 

Lauzon village. 482 

Laval bay, island. 423 

Lavaltrie island, range lights. 533 

Lazy bay. 163 

L’Islet d’en haut. 501 

Le Trou, cape.. - 90 

Leagues reef. 841 

Leander shoal. 294 

Leards range lights. 207 

Ledge point, Belles Amours bay.... 341 

-St. Genevieve harbor. 383 

Ledges, island of. 336 

Legget shoal. 257 

Lennox island. 241 

Les Cailles. 308 

-Eboulements village. 461 

-Mechins. 302 

Leslie cove.85,86 

Levis dock. 482 

-point. 482 

-shoal. 482 

-town. 490 

Levrard, cape; lightbuoys. 520 

Lewis head. 166 

-reef. 167 




















































































































576 


INDEX. 


Page. > 

Li&vres, batture de File aux. 443 j 

Lightvessels, riding lights, numbers. 55 

Light Lists, correction of. 7 

Lights, exhibition of. 54 

-general remarks. 11 

Limekiln bank. 258 

Limestone creek. 168 

Link islet.*. 343 

Linzee cape. 125,127 

Lion island. 343 

L’Islet village. 467 

-tidal data.493 

-tides. 476 

Lloyd’s signal stations. 58 

Little Alemek bay. 272 j 

-Basque island. 403 j 

—— Belledune point. 279 

-light. 280 

-Bergeron cove. 425 

-Boule island. 402 

-Cawee island. 407 

-Channel range lights. 241 

-Dutchman rock. 213 

-point. 210 

-Fish harbor; settlement. 334 

-Fox river. 302 

-Gasp6..,. 299 

-harbor, Nova Scotia. 145 

-Magdalen.. 302 

-Mai bay. 460 

-Matane river. 309 

-Mekattina cove. 358 

-island. 332, 357 i 

-river. 357 

-Metis bay. 310 

—•-river. 311 

-Natashkwan harbor. 377, 378 

-light. 378 

-river. 377 

-Pabou. 293 

-river, Cascapediac bay.288 

-Howe bay. 228 

■-Pomquet road. 121 

-Rustico harbor. 236 

-sands. 191 

-Shemogue river. 173 

-Shippigan. 270 

--Tracadie gully, light. 263 

-harbor. 120 | 

Livingston cove, Northumberland 

strait. 142 

Livingstone bay. 222 


Page. 

Lobster bay, Cawee islands. 408 

-St. Lawrence gulf, north 

shore. 347 

Local magnetic disturbance.. .^. 38 

-Sheldrake river. 397 

Logan point.. 146 

Loggieville (Black brook). 255 

Long island. 352 

-ledge. 368 

-Pilgrim island, light.449 

-point Amet sound. 159 

-Belle isle strait. 332, 335 

-Cape Breton island. 125 

-Lake Erie. 551 

-Mingan channel. 395 

-river. 376 

—— Sault rapids. 549 

-spit, East point; clearing marks. 81 

Longue ile. 482 

-point lightbuoy. 540 

-traverse, range lights. 540 

-pointe, ledge.499 

Longueuil lightbuoys. 541 

-- shoal. 541 

Loon rocks. 373 

Lotbini5re range lights. 517 

Lou road. 360 

Loudon beach. 146 

Louisa harbor. 361 

Louiseville range lights. 527 

Loup, anse a. 332 

-bank. 448 

— river. 285 

-riviere du, Lower St. Lawrence, 

light. 447 

-St. Peter lake. 527 

-tidal data. 493 

-town, point. 447 

Loups Marin, batture aux. 435 

Lovesick lake. 555 

Low islet. 383 

-rocks. 371 

-village. 184 

Lower Caraquet. 274 

-Neguac village; range lights. 262 

-St. Lawrence; current... 50 

-ice. 41 

-pilotage rates. 495 

-pilots. 60,312 

-quarantine. 314 

-tidal streams. 53 

-Traverse; light. 469 





































































































































INDEX. 


577 


Page. 

Lower Traverse; tidal streams. 476 

Lump shoal. 248, 249 

-buoy. 249 

M. 

Mabou cape. 131 

-high land. 131 

-river. 130 

-lights, tides. 131 

Macdonald reef; buoy. 146 

Macdougal point. 193,194 

Macfarlane point; range lights. 164 

Maclnnis point. 195 

Mackay point, Cape Breton island.. 126 

Mackeen point.... 116 

Mackinac strait. 552 

Mackenzie head, shoal. 145 

-Wallace harbor. 163,166 

Mackinnon, cape. 360 

Macnair point. 115 

MacPhee shoal. 226 

Macpherson point. 473 

-beacons. 474 

Madagascar rock. 117 

Madame island, Lower St. Lawrence. 482, 

485 

-banks. 485 

-reef; lightbuoy. 485 

Madden cove, point, anchorage. 113 

Madeleine cape, range lights.... 523,524 

-village. 523 

Magdalen, cape. 302,305 

-light. 306 

-islands. 79 

-communication, harbors, 

inhabitants, seals. 80 

-directions, north coast- 91 

-lagoon. 83 

-supplies. 81 

-tides and tidal streams- 92 

-river. 305,306 

Magnetic variation. 38 

Magpie bay. 396 

-range lights. 396 

-point. 396 

-river. 396 

-to Trout river; coast, local 

magnetic disturbance.... 397 

-village. 396 

Maguacha point, spit. 281 

Maheux, river. 487 

Maillard, cape. 499 

50918—08-37 


Page. 

Maisonneuve. 543 

Maitland flat. 226 

-point shoal. 226 

-port. 550 

Major reef. 361 

Mai baie. 458 

-river. 458 

-bay, light. 296 

Malcolm point. 255 

Malignant bay. 142 

Malpeque bay. 238 

-range lights. 238, 239 

-harbor. 238 

-anchorage, directions, tides 240 

-settlement. 240 

Man-of-war river. 380 

Manikuagan (Manicouagan) bay, 

point. 417 

-hole. 418 

-peninsula. 418 

-point magnetic disturbance. 38 

-telegraph and signal sta¬ 
tion. 419 

-river. 417, 418 

-shoal; whistling buoy.419 

Manitou point, river. 399 

Manowin island. 403 

Maquereau point. 269, 293 

-light.293 

Marand rocks. 488,492 

Marcelle point. 272 

March water. 240 

Margaree harbor. 133 

-river, range lights. 132 

-tides. 133 

Margaret island. 482 

-tail, lightbuoy.483 

Marie ile. 536 

Marine hospitals. 50 

Mark point. 330 

Marie head. 206 

Marmen rock. 444 

Marsh island. 300 

-river. 187 

Martin cape.•-. 460 

-river. 302,307 

-light. 307 

-shoal; clearing mark. 112 

Martini^re point. 482 

Matane. 302 

-paps of. 308 

-river. 309, 310 




















































































































578 ' 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Matane river lights. 310 

*-village, St. Jerome de.310 

-- St. Ulric de. 310 

Matapedia. 268 

Maudit bank. 328 

Maurier, point au. 365 

May islets. 407 

McAuslin island.235 

McCallums creek. 235 

McConnell point. 301 

McDonald river. 95 

McEacherns farm, lights. 234 

Mclsaac point, rock. 123 

McNairs cove. 124 

McWilliam cove. 216 

Meadow island. 300 

Meaford. 552 

Meat cove. 76,136 

Medea rock; buoy. 174 

Mekattina, cape. 355 

-harbor. 354 

-high land of. 354 

-island. 354 

-promontory. 357 

Melford point. 112 

Melocheville. 549 

Merigomish harbor. 143 

-tides. 144 

-island. 143 

-village. 144 

Mermot islet. 346 

Metabetshuan river. 437 

Meteorological tables. 556-561 

Metis bay. 311 

-point, light. 311 

-river. 312 

Meule cape, rocks, buoy. 85 

Michaux, cape. 309 

Michigan, lake. 547, 552 

Middle bank, Nova Scotia banks.... 61 

-St. Lawrence river. 444 

-bay. 339 

-channel, Lower St. Lawrence... 465 

-Seven Islands bay. 404 

-ground, Charlottetown harbor.. 201 

-Dalhousie harbor. 282 

-Miramichi river. 254 

-South Traverse channel; 

lightbuoy. 469 

-South Traverse channel; 

tidal streams. 476 

-Wallace harbor. 165 


Page. 

Middle island, Miramichi river; light 257 


-St. Lawrence river. 483 

-islands, Watagheistic sound ap¬ 
proach. 362 

-ledges, Belles Amours harbor... 339 

-passage, Amet sound, direc¬ 
tions . 161 

-patch, Bonne Esperance bay... 343 

-Pilgrim island. 449 

-point, Belles Amours harbor-339 

-reef, Mingan islands.391 

-channel. 392 

-river, Bathurst harbor. 278 

-Pictou harbor. 148 

--rock Wood Pillar islet.470 

-shoal Marmen rock.444 

-shoals, Pictou bank, buoy. 155 

Midland. 552 

Mill creek, Cove Head bay...235 

— Port Hood. 117,127 

-island. 482 

Millbrook. 152,159 

Milles Vaches bay. 424 

-point, river. 424 

-tides. 426 

Milne bank. 231 

-point. 371 

-reef. 371 

Milwaukee. 553 

-bay. 553 

Miminegash pond, range lights. 217 

-reef. 217 

Mingan channel. 394 

-harbor. 392,393 

-island. 393 

-islands. 381 

-magnetic disturbance. 38 

-soundings. 395 

-tidal streams. 381 

-patch. 394 

-river. 392,393 

Miramichi bar. 248 

-bay. 246 

-directions. 251 

-bay, range lights. 246, 247 

-lightvessel. 249 

-tides and tidal streams_250 

-Inner bay. 249 

-river. 246,255,256 

Misaine bank. 61 

Miscou banks. 267 

-tidal streams. 268 























































































































INDEX. 


579 


Page. 

Miscou channel. 270 

-flat. 270 

— gully, light. 266 

-harbor. 270 

-island. 266 

Miscouche bank. 211,213 

-church. 213 

-point. 213 

— shoals. 211 

— gas buoy. 213 

Mistanoque bay. 334, 349 

-harbor. 349, 350 

-island. 349 

Mistassini (Great Stone). 366 

-reef. 366 

Mizzenette ledge. 276 

— point. 274 

-sands. 274 

Moine, ile du, range lights. 529, 530 

Moisie (Moisic) bay, point. 400 

-river. 401 

-rock, shoal. 402 

Molus river. 184 

Moncton. 178 

Money, Canadian. 36 

-point. 137 

Moniac island. 390 

Monk head.122 

Montague river. 223, 226 

Montcalm rock. 364 

Montgomery island, light. 282 

Montmorency falls. 488 

Montreal city. 545, 546 

-meteorological table. 561 

-harbor. 543, 544 

-Ottawa, and Georgian bay canal. 555 

-and Kingston, route. 554 

-to lake Superior, route. 548 

Mont3, point de. 412, 413 

-current. 51 

-general directions_ 68 

-light, fog signal.412 

-tides and tidal streams 

. 51, 53, 54, 413 

Moodie cove. 147 

Moody point. 255 

Morin shoal. 444 

— light, whistling, and bell 

buoy. 445 

Morrel river. 233 

Morrisburg canal, town. 549 

Morrison beach. 226 

Morts ile aux. 456 


Page. 

Morts point aux. 389 

Mosquito sands. 227 

Mouche bank, la, light buoy. 489 

Moulin Baude anchorage. 455 

-rivi&re du, range lights. 436 

Mound island. 364 

Mount Louis bay. 302, 306 

——-range lights. 307 

---river. 306 

-Stewart. 225 

Moutange island. 390 

Mud point. 183 

Mulgrave, port...115 

Mullegash point. 160 

Mullin point, range lights..,. 164 

Murdoch point. 254 

-shoal. 146 

Murphy point. 158 

Murr islets, rocks. 353 

Murray bay. 458, 459 

-light. 459 

-village. 459, 460 

-canal, isthmus. 550 

-cove. 113,115 

-harbor, range lights. 219 

-tides, directions. 220 

-head. 218 

-river. 219 

Mushkoniatawee bay. 380 

Muskwaro (Musquarro) point, river.. 374 

Mushroul point. 188 

Mussel bank, Buctouche river. 183 

-Restigouche river. 286 

-Bed buoy. 252 

Muttock point. 195 

Mutton island. 354 

Mya point. 271 

N. 

Nabisipi (Nabesippi) river. 380 

Nail head, pond. 217 

Napan bay. 254 

-point. 254 

Napetepee bay., 348 

Narrows buoy, Miramichi river. 255 

Nash River bay. 280 

Natashkwan cod banks. 376 

-(Natashquan) point.376 

-to St. Genevieve island; 

coast, currents, tidal 

streams. 376, 377 

-river. 377 

Neguac gully; range lights. 261 
























































































































580 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Neguac sand bar. 261 

Nelson town., 258 

Nepigon shoal lightbuoy. 531 

Neptune rock. 502 

Nest rock. 367 

Netagamu islands, river. 361 

New Brunswick province; physical 

features. 32 

-products, trade, climate... 30 

-Glasgow town. 150 

-Carlisle town; light. 290 

-Liverpool. 490 

New London harbor, range lights, 

settlement. 237 

-York. 532 

Newcastle. 258 

Newfoundland, south coast, currents 48 

-west coast, current. 49 

Newport, light. 293 

-point. 293 

Niagara river. 37, 550 

Niapisca channel. 389, 390 

-island, reefs. 389 

Niche, la. 432 

Nicholas point, semaphore. 513 

Nicolet range lights. 525 

-river. 525 

-traverse. 525 

-lightbuoys. 526 

Niobe shoal. 338 

Nipigon bay. 554 

Nipisiguit bay. 269 

-river. 278 

Nipissing lake. 555 

Nob islet. 358 

Noire point, lights, Saguenay river.. 429 

-Seven Islands bay. 404 

--rivi6re. 457 

Norman, cape, tides. 329 

North bank. 183 

-beach, Perc6bay. 295 

-Bird rock. 77 

-branch, Wallace harbor. 163 

-Canso light. 117,119 

-cape, Cape Breton island, cur¬ 
rents, light, tides. 137 

-Magdalen islands. 91 

-rocks. 91 

-channel, Lower St. Lawrence, 

directions. 462,466,498,504 

-channel Lower St. Lawrence, 

tidal streams. 463, 505 

-coast of Anticosti, current.105 


Page. 


North cove, Belles Amours bay.338 

-gully of Tracadie. 263 

-range lights. 264 

-patch, Buchtouche outer bar... 181 

-point, Anticosti, current.105 

-Miscou island. 267 

-Prince Edward island. 217 

--light. 218 

-reef, Egg island. 409 

-river, Bathurst harbor.278 

-river, Caraquet bay. 275 

-(Grand) Rustico harbor, lights.. 236 

-Sydney. 29 

-Tracadie lagoon, river. 263 

-Traverse, Lower St. Lawrence, 

tides. 505 

Northeast cape, East island. 81 

-ledge, Belle isle. 327 

-point, light, St. Paul island- 75 

-Razade islet. 322 

—— reef, Bic island. 316 

-Egg island. 410 

Northwest arm, Gaspe bay.300 

-Miramichi river.259 

-light. 260 

-reef, Bicquette island. 317 

-spit, Entry island. 88 

Northport, range lights. 242 

Northumberland strait, directions... 141 

-east shore. 214 

-fogs, tides, tidal streams... 138 

-ice. 40 

-north shore. 190 

Norton shoal, point. 278 

Notices to Mariners. 8 

Notre Dame du Portage. 448 

-mountains. 32, 33 

Nouvelle basin. 287 

-bay. 284 

-point. 291 

-river. 287,291 

Nova Scotia banks. 60 

-north coast. 142 

-province, climate, prod¬ 
ucts, trade, fisheries.. 29,30 

- - - physical features, 

geology. 32 


o. 


Oak channel. 250 

-island. 163 

-bar. 163 












































































































INDEX. 


581 


Page. 

Oak point, range lights, Miramichi 


bay.250 

- - - - Restigouche 

river.... 286 

-tree point. 153 

Observation, cape. 106 

Ogden pond. 123 

O’Hara point wharf; light. 301 

Oies, battures de l’lle aux. 472 

Oil river. 95 

-use of. 23 

Old Bic road and harbor. 315 

-Fort bay settlement. 334, 346 

-channel and island. 346 [ 

-gully of Tracadie. 263 

Old Harry cove. 82 | 

-head. 82 j 

-Horseshoe channel, range lights 247 i 

-Store point. 219 

-Woman rock. 298 | 

Olding island. 144 i 

Olomanoshibo (Olomanosheebo) 

river. 373 ! 

Onion island. 473 j 

Ontario, lake. 37,547,550 i 

-province, climate, products, 

trade. 27-28 

-physical features, geology. 31 

Ore point. 398 I 

Orient point. 422 

Orignal, bay, cape, reef. 315 

Orignaux point, light. 451 

-tidal data. 493 J 

Orleans channel. 466,505 

-lights. 505 j 

-directions. 506 ! 

-island. 486 , 

Orwell bay. 195 j 

-river. 195 j 

Oswego river, city. 550 j 

Otonabee river. 555 ! 

Ottawa, city, canal, river. 555 j 

Otter river. 95, 99 I 

Ouelle, rivi&re and point. 452 j 

Outarde bay. 420 j 

-point. 420 | 

-river. 419 

-shoal. Lower St. Lawrence.. 419,420 

Outardes shoal. 525 

Outer Birch island. 391 

-islet, Wolf island; beacon. 370 

-rocks, cape Mekattina. 356 

-Wapitagun islands. 366 


Page. 


Owen sound. 552 

Oxley point. 168 

Oyster island, buoy. 165 

-pond. 82 


P. 

Pacquet point. 179 

Pads, lie du, range lights.533 

Paget bank. 514 

Paint river. 373 

Palmer point. 162 

Palmers wharf light. 207 

Pandora point. 270 

Panmure head; light. 220 

-island. 220 

-ledge. 221 

-shoal and spit, buoys. 221 

Paradis point. 419 

Park point. 112 

Parsley, port.M57 

Partridge point. 383 

-mount. 384 

Pashashibu (Pashasheebo) bay. 380 

Paspebiac bay, point, sandspit. 290 

-light. 290 

-town. 268, 290 

Paul bluff. 207 

Pavilion, pointe au. 507 

-river. 100 

Paynter islands. 360 

Peacock cove. 173 

Peak point. 339 

-promontory. 340 

Pearl reef. 84, 88 

Pecten point. 270 

Penetanguishene. 552 

Peninsula point. 158 

-The, Gasp6. 300 

Pentecdte (Pentecost) river. 409 

Perce bay reef, rock, town, mountain. 295 

-cape. 89 

-point. 295 

Perc6e rock. 446, 447 

Percival river. 215 

Peril rock. 348 

Perron, batture. 521 

Perroquet bank, Belle isle strait.335 

-clearing marks. 337 

-island. 335 

-channel. 394 

Perroquets islets; light. 394 

Peter point, Bathurst. 278 

-Gasp6 bay. 296 














































































































582 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Petit Abattis. 499 

-Debarquement. 500 

-Rocher settlement; lights.280 

Petitcodiac river. 178 

Petite riviere parish. 499 

-traverse, range lights. 534 

-Vallee. 302 

Petites isles. 433 

Phelan point. 210 

Philip bar. 167 

-port. 168 

-river... 166,168 

Piashti bay (Peashtebai). 380 

Pic, pointe au. 458 

Pictou bank.. 146,155 

-bar. 147 

-:-light. 148 

-custom-house, light. 148 

-harbor. 145,147 

- L -coal, communication, sup¬ 
plies. 151 

-directions, tides. 149 

--lights... 148 

-island. 146,153 

-lights. 154 

-landing. 150 

•-road, directions. 146 

-town. 150 

Pierre de Gros cap. 91 

-river. 306 

Pigeon islet. t . 337 

-lake. 555 

Pilgrim islands. 449 

-shoal. 448 

-- light and bell buoy. 449 

Pillage bay. 382 

Pillar point. 292 

Pillars islets.. 470 

—-tides, tidal streams. 476 

Pillet, cape; church. 173 

Pilot charts. 9 

Piloting. 19 

Pilots for Lower St. Lawrence. 60 

Pinette harbor. 194 

-point. 193 I 

-shoals. 194 

Pins, point aux. 473 j 

Pin ware bay. 332 

Pirate cove, island. 114 

-point. 113 

Pizeau point. 489 

Plaister cove. 115 

Plateau island. 296 


Page. 


Platon point, lightbuoy. 516 

-range lights. 517 

-tides. 510 

Pleasant bay, Cape Breton island.... 136 

-Magdalen islands.... 80, 84, 86 

Pleureuse point, river. 306 

Plongeur bay. 422 

Plum island, lightbuoy. 536 

Point a Carey wharf. 494 

-Levis shoal. 482 

-Seche. 302 

Pointed rock. 480 

Pokemouche river, lagoon, gully, 

light. 264 

-village. 265 

Pokeshaw bay, settlement. 277 

Pokesuedie island, shoal; light, fog 

signal. 271 

-point. 273 

Pomquet banks, harbor; tides.122 

-island, light. 121 

-point, river. 122 

-road; anchorage, directions.122 

Pond point. 339 

Poplar island bridge. 200 

Porcupine, cape. Ill 

——-tidal stream. 118 

Porpoise rocks. 347 

Port Hill settlement. 241 

-Howe settlement. 168 

-Huron. 551 

-Joli shoal; lightbuoy.470 

-Philip settlement. 168 

-Selkirk wharf. 196 

Portage bay. 355 

-harbor. 355 

--island, light. 248 

--channel. 249 

—----range lights. 247 

-la butte de. 91 

Portneuf, St. Lawrence lower river.. 423 

-magnetic disturbance. 38 

-river, light. 423 

--sands. 424 

-village. 516 

-range lights. 517 

Portsmouth point. 126 

-shoal. 128 

Pgste St. Martin range lights....435 

Potato river. 95 

Pouillier a Gagnon lightbuoy. 541 

-Carpentier cutting. 521 

— lightbuoy. 522 

























































































































INDEX. 


583 


Page. 

Pouillier Grandmont cutting. 521 

Powell point. 146 

Pownell bay. 197 

-peninsula. 197 

Prairie bay, light. 501 

-tides, directions. 502 

-point. 501 

-shoal. 501 

Premier shoal. 114 

Presqu ’ile. 135 

Preston beach, range lights. 246 

Price island. 358 

Priest point. 183 

Prim island. 195 

-point, light. 194 

— peninsula. 194 

-reefs. 195 

Prince Edward island, east coast.... 218 
— province, products, 

trade, climate. 30, 

31,189 

— physical features, ge¬ 

ology. 33 

— north coast. 231 

-south coast. 190 

-west coast. 216 

-shoal, lightvessel.455,456 

Princess Louise basin. 493 

-— light. 490 

-marine tower. 489 

-dock. 494 

-embankment, lights. 490 

Prinsta bay. 107 

Provencher shoal. 524 

Prunes, ile aux... 536 

Puffin bay. 385 

Pugwash bay, point, reef. 166 

-harbor, road, light. 167 

-tides. 168 

-river. 168 

— village, junction. 168 


Q. 

Quarantine anchorages, establish¬ 


ment, Grosse isle. 484 

— Lower St. Lawrence. 314 

— pass. 484 

-Rimouski. 484 

Quarry channel. 391 

-cove, island. 390 

— head, point. 121 

Quart point. 253 


Page. 

Quebec city. 490 

— communication, hospitals, 

supplies. 496 

meteorological table. 558 

-time signal, weather. 497 

-harbor. 488 

-anchorage, directions. 491 

-- docks. 494 

-ice, pilotage, tugs. 495 

-—lights. 490 

- tides. 492,493, 507, 510 

to Montreal; current, tidal 

streams. 510, 511 

—— to Montreal. 508-511 

— province; products, trade, cli¬ 
mate . 28 


— physical features, geol¬ 


ogy. 31,33 

Quetachu Manikuagan (Quetachoo 

Manicouagon) bay. 380 

Quin channel. 389 

-island, reef. 388 

Quinte, bay of. 550 


R. 


Race island. 482 

Raft gully. 263 

Rag ledge. 358 

Ragg bay and point. 385 

Ragged point. 127 

Raisins, ile aux; range lights. 528 

Rambler cove. 396 

Rapide Plat canal. 549 

Razade islets. 322 

Reaux island. 482 

Red bay, Belle isle strait. 332 

-cape. 86 

-head, Egmont bay. 214 

-— island, Bonne Esperance 

bay. 343 

-islet, Lower St. Lawrence, light. 439 

— bank, lightvessel. 439, 440 

--reef, clearing marks. 323 

-point, Chaleur bay. 289 

--north shore of gulf. 353 

Reddish point. 292 

Reef point, Anticosti. 108 

-Nova Scotia. 157 

Reid point. 220 

Renouard point. 179 

Repairs; places where effected. 59 

Repentigny range lights. 538 

























































































































584 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Restigouche river. 281, 284 ' 

-—directions. 283 i 

Rexton town. 186 ! 

Rice cove. 206 j 

-lake. 555 | 

-point. 198 | 

Richelieu and Champlain navigation 532 j 

-channel. 517 

-island light. 517 

--reef. 517 

-rapid. 516 j 

--river, range lights. 532 | 

Richibucto bar, bell buoy, range 

lights. 185 | 

-channel, range lights. 185 j 

-head. 183 

-light. 184 

-point. 186 j 

—— river. 184 j 

-tides. 186 

-town. 186 | 

Richmond village. 289 j 

Rideau canal, river. 555 ! 

-navigation. 555 

Ridge point. 398 

Rifleman reef, buoy. 193 

Rimouski river. 314 | 

-road. 313 | 

--light, lightbuoy. 314 | 

-village. 314 | 

Rivi&re Blanche village. 310 

-du Loup point, town. 447 j 

Roadstead point. 410 

Roaring Bull point. 145 

Robert, cape. 107 | 

Robinson, port. 550 

Roche, cape a la; channel, lightbuoy, 

semaphore.... 519 

-tides. 510 

Roches point. 434 

-pointe de. 458 

Rochette village and church. 279 

Rock point. 215 

-river. 407 

Rocks, bay of, Little Mekattina 

island. 357 

-Lower St. Lawrence.. 457 

Rocky bank, Magdalen islands. 90 

-bay north shore of gulf. 347 

Roger hill. 148 

—— point, gut of Canso. 113 

-Pictou island. 153 

Rogers point, John river. 158 

Roix shoal. 309 


Page. 

Rollo bay.:. 228 

Romaine, la; trading post. 372,373 

Ronde, lie (Haystack island).482 

-lie, lightbuoys. 541 

-range lights. 540 

-— la butte. 84 

-petite butte. 499 

Rosebank point buoy. 201 

Roseville pond. 216 

Rosier, cape. 302,303 

-light. 303 

Ross point, buoy. 164 

Rouge, cape. 488, 512 

-le rocher. 484 

-point, Saguenay river. 429 

--St. Lawrence river.479 

Round head. 353 

-islet. 353 

-rock. 311 

Roy island and ledge. 144 

Royal, mount. 545 

Royalty point and sand. 238 

Ruisseau rock. 376 

Rustico harbors. 235 

s. 

Sable island. 61 

Sackville. 172 

Sacr6 Coeur. 431 

Saddle hill. 380 

-island, reef; Mullegash point... 160 

Safe rock. 358 

Saginaw bay. 552 

Saguenay cliffs. 455 

-river. 426,437 

-pilots. 313,427 

--tides, tidal streams. .. 427, 428 

-entrance, directions.430 

Sailing Directions, correction of. 8 

Sain cape. 459 

Saint Adelaide de Pabou. 293 

-Alexis village. 433 

-Alphonse village, light. 433 

-Andr6 bank. 450 

-point. 450 

-village. 449 

-Andrew banks. 256 

—-point, Georgetown harbor. 221 

-light. 223 

-Miramichi river. 255 

-Anne. 137 

-cape. 307 

-des Monts village. 307 

-range lights.308 




























































































































INDEX. 


585 


Page. 

Saint Anne mountains. 307,308 

-point. 308 

-river. 307 

-Antoine. 302 

-point. 514 

-lightbuoy. 515 

-range lights.514 

-Augustin bar. 513 

-shoal lightbuoy.513 

-Augustine chain of islets. 352 

-cove. 414 

-harbor. 334,352 

-port, river. 352 

-Barthelemi isle. 432 

-Catherine bay. 429 

-Charles junction.. 448 

-point, Moisie bay. 400 

-reef. 400 

-river, Quebec.489 

-Clair lake, river. 551 

-Croix bar; lightbuoy, range lights 515 

-light. 516 

-village. 515 

-Etienne bay, river, village .... 432 

-F61icit6, fog signal. 309 

-Fidel e village. 458 

-Fla vie. 448 

-Francis lake, river. 549 

-port, lights. 525 

-river lights. 528 

-Francois parish, lights. 486 

-Fulgence village. 434 

-Genevieve island.382 

-indraft. 377 

-harbor. 383 

-mount. 382 

-George cove. 299 

-Giles point. 414,417 

-Hyacinthe. 532 

-Ignace cape, village. 468 

-tie. 529 

-Iren6e village, light. 460 

-Jacques river, church.215 

-Jean, anse. 432 

-bay, river, light. 432 

-point. 488 

-Port Joli village. 467 

-tidal data. 493 

-village; light. 487 

-Jerome de Matane. 310 

-John lake.437 

-mount. 381, 396 

-river, Gasp6 bay. 298 


north shore of gulf. 395, 396 






t 


Page. 

Saint Johns. 532 

-Joseph bank. 461 

-cape. 461,462 

-light. 461 

-isle. 539 

-Laurent cape. 169 

-village, light. 487 

-tidal data. 493 

-Lawrence bay, cape, lights_136 

-estuary, directions down.. 72 

-south shore. 302 

-gulf. 37 

-currents. 50 

-fogs, fog signals. 42 

-ice. 38,40 

-north shore. 332-334 


and river, barometer. 47 

-deviation, 

local mag¬ 
netic dis¬ 
turbance, 
magnetic 
variation. 38 


-gales. 46 

-general di¬ 
rections.. 62 

-marine signal 

stations... 57 

-navigation .. 37 

-storm signals. 47 

-submarine fog 

bells. 44 

-tidal streams 52,53 

-tides. 51 

- winds and 

weather... 44 
-wireless tele¬ 
graph sta¬ 
tions . 58 

Lower, pilots. 312 

-tidal data. 53 

river system. 37 

-Green island to the 

northeastern en¬ 
trance of South 
Traverse directions. 453 

-ice. 41 

-navigation above 

Montreal. 547 

-Quebec to Mon¬ 
treal . 508,509 

-to Belle isle strait, 

directions. 64 

-Cabot strait, direc¬ 
tions. 63 














































































































































INDEX. 


586 


Page. 


Saint Louis isle. 432 

-lake. 548 

-rapids. 548 

-river. 37 

-village. 188 

-Margaret bay, point, river. 406 

--point to Great Cawee 

island, coast. 406 

-Martin river, range lights. 435 

—— Mary bay. 222 

-cliffs. 101 

--islands. 362 

-rapid. 541 

-reefs. 363 

-Marys river, rapids, falls canal. 553 

-Maurice river. 524 

-Michael, cape, lightbuoy. 538 

-Michel point, village. 481 

-Nicholas, cape. 417 

-harbor. 415,416 

-tides. 510 

-river. 184 

-Ours, lie. 533,534 

--lightbuoy. 534 

--lock. 532 

-traverse range lights. 534 

-Pancras cove, point.417 

-Patrick hole, river. 487 

-Paul, bay. 498 

-tidal data.493 

-island. 74-77,137 

-lights. 75 

-to Bird rocks and Magdalen 

islands, directions. 64 

-river. 345 

-Peter bay, Cape Breton island . 29 

—-harbor (bay). 232 

-range lights.233 

--lake. 525 

----range lights.527 

-river. 233 

-town. 233 

-Peters island, light. 198 

-shoals, buoy. 199 

-spit and road. 199 

-Petronille, light. 488 

-Pierre bank. 60 

-des Becquets point, lights. 520 

-et St. Paul village. 498 

-island. 62 

-point, lights. 505 

-Roch des Aulnaies (Aulnets) 

village.452 

— height of tide 475, 507 


Page. 

Saint island parish. 490 

-shoals. 469, 470 

-anchorage. 479 

-Romuald. 490 

-Sauveur. 490 

-Simeon village, light. 457 

-Thomas bank. 468,475 

--lightbuoy. 475 

-de Montmagny village-468 

-pier, point, range lights 468,479 

-—- village. 467 

-Ulrich de Matane. 310 

-—— Vallier bank. 481 

-point, village. 480 

Sainte Anne de Beaupre, tides. 507 

-tidal data.---493 

-la Pocati6re village.. 452 

-pointe au Pere 

village. 312 

-Sorel range lights. 530 

-des Monts village. 302 

-du Saguenay. 437 

--mont. 452 

--river. 506 

-shoals, lower. 452,453 

-upper. 520 

--river. 520 

-Annes lock. 555 

-Claire. 95 

-Emilie range lights. 519 

-Famille range lights. 505 

-Felicite. 302 

—- Therese ile range lights. 537, 538, 539 

Saints channel. 383 

-directions. 384 

-rocks. 382 

Salmon bay, islet. 342 

-cape, port, light. 458 

-(Belloni) point. 277, 278 

-light. 278 

-river, Anticosti. 95 

-Cape Breton island. 130 

Salt Lake bay. 95,100 

Salutation point. 209 

Sand Lark reef. 390 

Sandbury cove. 213 

Sandtop cape. 109 

Sandy bay. 335 

-beach. 299 

— point, light. 300 

--harbor, island. 351 

— Hook. 86 

-channel. 87 

flat. 86 

































































































































































TNDEX. 


587 


Page. 

Sandy Hook shoal. 87 

— Island, range lights. 242 

-point, Caraquet island. 275 

• -Mingan harbor. 393 

* -Seven Islands bay. 403 

-river. 398 

Sapin point, ledge, settlement, light. 188 

Sarnia town. 551 

Sault au Cochon. 499 

--rocherde. 502 

— pass.1. 511 

--Ste. Marie canal, towns. 553 

-The, lights. 512 

Saut de Mouton. 424 

Savage harbor. 233 

-range lights. 234 

-island. 242 

-point. 144 

Savards range lights. 435 

Sawbill river. 398 

Scale rock. 357 

Scaumenac mount. 281 

-point. 286 

Scie, riviere de la. 490 

Scollop patch. 276 

Scoudouc river. 178 

Sea Cow channel. 387 

— -head, light. 209 

— -island. 386 

— Trout point. 197,199 

-Wolf island, light. 132 

Seal bank. 179 

-house cove. 400 

-islands, Lower St. Lawrence-470 

-islets. 365 

-net point. 364, 365 

—— point. 353 

-river. 195 

-rock. 299 

— rocks, Belle Isle strait. 355 

-Doctor point. 151 

Semaphore signals at point Nicholas 

and Cape a la Roche. 513 

Seminaire spit. 506 

-The.... 479 

Serpent point, reef. 304 

Seven islands. 402 

-bay. 403,404 

-directions, tides. 405 

— -winds. 406 

--magnetic disturbance. 38 

Severn river. 555 

Shag island and rock, Shekatika bay. 351 

— Magdalen islands. 84 


Page. 

Shag islet. 379 

-rock, Meat cove. 136 

Shallop channel. 344 

-cove. 340 

-creek. 95,100 

-river. 95, 398 

-rock. 230 

Shea, point, pier. 87 

Shediac bay.'.. 174 

-harbor. 175 

-range lights. 176 

— -—- tides, directions. 177 

-island. 174 

— -North channel, range lights 175 

— range lights. 175 

-point. 179 

-river, village. 178,179 

Shekatika bay, wood. 350 

-(Shecatica) island. 349 

Sheldrake island, range lights. 254 

-point, river. 398 

-river, magnetic disturbance_397 

-shoals. 255 

Shemogue river. 173 

Shettle, port. 457 

Shickshoc mountains. 33,307 

Shilelah cove. 259 

Ship bar.,. 164 

-channel, Malpeque bay. 238 

-Wallace harbor. 163 

— flat, Shippigan flat, buoy. 271 

-— point. 112 

— rock, buoy, clearing mark. 112 

Shippigan channel, buoys. 273 

-—flat. 271 

-gully, lights, fog signal. 265 

— --point. 272 

-harbor. 265, 272 

-directions, tidal streams... 273 

-island. 266 

-shoals. 273 

-(Shippegan) sound. 271 

-- village and church. 272 

Ships Head rock. 298 

Shoal cove. 385 

Shockpish river. 183 

Sight point. 131 

Signal stations, marine. 57 

Signals respecting ice. 42 

Simcoe lake. 555 

Simms point. 238 

Simon inlet. 272 

Single rock. 357 

Tree point. 291 
































































































































588 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Skait point. 273 

Skinner reef, buoy. 152 

Slime rock. 367 

Smith island. 126,127 

-point, Northumberland strait... 166 

-port Hood. 127 

-Prince Edward island.220 

Snake point. 174,175 

Solander point.... 227 

Soldats, pointe aux. 531 

Sorel town. 531 

Sottise, tie &. 482 

Soulanges canal. 547, 548 

Souris harbor; lights. 229 

-head. 228,229 

-village. 229 

South beach, Perc6 bay. 295 

-branch, Wallace harbor. 163 

-breaker. 371 

-cape, Amherst island, light. 89 

-channel, Lower St. Lawrence 

453, 465 

• -Lower St. Lawrence, above 

Crane island. 479,482 

• -Lower St. Lawrence, above 

Ouelle point. 465 

-Lower St. Lawrence, South 

Traverse to Crane island. 467 

■-Lower St. Lawrence, tidal 

streams. 463 

-Makers ledge. 366 

-point, Anticosti. 99 

---Five Leagues harbor. 341 

-river, Caraquet bay. 275 

-settlement. 219 

-rock; light. 471 

-(Little) Rustico harbor. 236 

-Tracadie gully; light.263 

-Tracadie river. 263 

-Traverse channel. 469 

-anchorages. 478 

-directions. 477 

-Middle ground lightbuoy. 469 

-tidal streams. 476 

Southeast reef, Bic island. 316 

Southwest arm, Gaspd bay. 298, 300 

-Miramichi river. 259 

--Cape Breton island. 130 

-breaker. 371 

-cape, Amherst island. 89 

-islands. 363 

• -ledge. 342 

-Razade islet. 322 


Page. 

Southwest river. 237 

-point; Anticosti. 100 

-anchorage, tides. 101 

-light. 100 

-gt. Paul island. 75 

Spear, cape. 169 

-shoal. 170 

Spectacle reef. 551 

Sphinx rock. 378 

Spit island. 345 

-point. 254 

-shoal. 248,249 

-buoy. 249 

Spithead, port Hood. 126 

-shoal, Hillsborough bay; buoy... 199 

Spray reef. 360 

Springhill. 29, 448 

Sproule point. 408 

Spry point. 227 

Square channel. 352 

Squaw bay. 197 

-shoal. 198 

Squirrel pond, mount. 133 

Staff island. 358 

Standard time. 36 

Stanhope, cape. 235 

Stanley river.;. 237 

Star island. 345 

Stewart point. 193 

Stone island, Bonne Esp6rance bay .. 345 

-St. Lawrence river. 529 

-Pillar islet; light. 471 

Stonehaven, light. 277 

Stony lake. 555 

-point, Belles Amours harbor ... 338 

Storm signals. 47 

Sturgeon bay. 222 

--lake. 555 

-river. 222 

Submarine fog bells. 44 

Sud, riviere du; lower St. Lawrence.. 468 

Sugarloaf hill, Malignant bay. 142 

-Restigouche river. 284, 285 

Summerside pier; lights. 211 

-town. 212,213 

Superior, lake. 37, 547, 553 

Surveyor pond. 232 

Susan cape, creek. 126 

Swanton point. 228 

Swash way, Miramichi bay. 249 

-buoy. 249 

-range lights. 247 

Sydney. 29 

-meteorological table.. 560 

























































































































INDEX. 


589 


T. Page. : 

Table head and hill, Anticosti. 108 ! 

-roulante, la. 295 

Tabusintac gully, lagoon, and river.. 262 

Tadoussac (Tadousac) harbor. 429 

-village. 430 

-harbor; tides_^. 427,428,507 

Tail islet. 343 

-rocks. 357 

Talbot river. 555 

Tatamagouche bay. 159 

-anchorage, tides. 160 

-river. 160 

Taureau shoal. 524 

Telegraph cables. 59 

-wireless. 58 

Tender reef. 363 

Tent island. 345 | 

Terras point. 218, 220 

Terres Rompues rapid. 437 

Tertiary Shell bay. 371, 372 

Tetagouche river. 278 

Three Rivers harbor. 221 

-tides. 510 

-shoal. 524 

-town. 524 

-rocks, St. Nicolas harbor... 416 

-Shekatika bay. 351 

-tides, anchorage. 200 

Thrumcap islet, spit. 222 

Thunder bay. 554 

-point. 398 

-river. 398 

Tickle inlet, Mai bay; light. 296 

Tidal streams; Belle Isle strait. 53 

-gulf and river St. Lawrence. 52, 

53 

-Northumberland strait. 138 

Tide tables. 8, 52 

Tides, general remarks. 12 

-gulf and river St. Lawrence- 51 

-Northumberland strait. 138 

Tidnish head. 170 

-river. 169 

Tignish river, harbor; village, lights. 244 

Tooker bank. 327 

Tormentine, cape. 171 

-range lights. 172 

-reefs. 170 

-bell buoy, directions, tidal 

streams. 171 


Page. 

Toronto, city. 27, 550 

Tortue river. 399 

Tourmente, cape. 504 

Tower point. 107 

-rock. 88 

Tracadie harbor, George bay; tides, 

village. 120,121 

— Prince Edward island; 

range lights. 234 

-lagoon. 263 

-village. 264 

-river. 121 

Tracadigash point, lights. 287 

-sandspit. 288 

Traverse bar. 286 

-cape. 171, 209 

-cove; iceboats. 209 

-spit. 503 

-buoy. 506 

Treble Hill island. 353 

-islet. 373 

Treen bluff. 157,162 

-reef. 165 

Trembles, point aux, bend, lightbuoy 539 

--curve lightbuoy. 540 

-shoal; lightbuoy. 514 

Trent canal. 555 

-river. 550, 555 

Trenton. 555 

Trilobite bay. 385,386 

Trinitd, cap & la. 432 

Trinity bay.412 

-cove.-. 74, 75 

-river. 412 

Trois Pistoles village, light. 322 

-Saumons river. 467 

Trou, cape le. 90 

-de Berthier. 479 

Trout river. 400 

-rock. 199 

Truro. 148 

Tryon, cape; light. 238 

-head. 208,209 

-river. 209 

-shoals. 208 

-whistling buoy. 209 

Tupper, point; light. 113 

Turbalton bay, anchorage. 118 

Turner, cape. 236 

Two Heads island. 484, 503 












































































































590 


INDEX. 


U. Page. 

Upper Caraquet. 274, 276 

-Neguac village.261 

-sound. 364 

-Traverse; light, lightbuoy.469 

-tidal streams, turn of. 476 


V. 

Vaches,ile aux; traverse range lights. 539 


-patch.455 

-point.. 428, 454 

--reef. 455 

-tidal streams.428 

Valin river, range lights.435 

Valley cove. 325, 326 

Valleyfield. 549 

Varennes curve lightbuoys. 539 

-village. 539 

Variation, magnetic. 97 

Vases, riviere des. 446 

Vaureal river. 95 

Venus cove. 115 

Vercheres lightbuoy. 536 

-point. 536 

-traverse, range lights. 536 

-village range lights. 536 

Vernon river. 195 

Vertebay.. 169 

-lie. 335 

-point, Mai bay. 296 

-trou de Berthier. 479 

Victoria bridge.543 

-village. 207 

Vinbay. 253 

-harbor.252 

-island; range lights.252 

-river. 253 . 

-spit and shoal. 252 

Vincent cape..... 550 

w. 

Wacoutarock.392 

Wallace channel. 163 

-harbor. 162 

—*-anchorage, directions. 165 

-buoys. 164 

-lights. 164 

-tides. 166 

-river. 162 

-village. 163 

Walrus channel. 387 

-island. 386 


Page. 


Wapitagun harbor. 366, 367 

-island. 366 

Warren cove. 200 

-Farm range lights. 201 

Washatnagunashka bay. 380 

Washball rock, Amet sound. 160 

Washikuti (Washchecootai) bay; 

rocks. 373 

Washtawooka bay. 379 

Watagheistic island. 363 

-sound. 363 

-directions. 364, 365 

Watch rock, Bonne Esperance bay... 344 

-Hare harbor. 358 

Watshishu (Watcheesho) peninsula.. 380 

W T augh shoal. 157 

W eather forecasts. 48 

Welland canal, river, town. 550 

West bay, Anticosti. 98 

-cape, Amherst island. 89, 90 

-Saguenay river. 433 

-Caribou. 152 

-channel, Bonne Esperance bay. 345 

-Seven Islands bay.405 

-cliff. 94,106 

-to Table head; tidal streams. 107 

-cove, Middle bay. 340 

-grounds. 316 

-gully, Caribou harbor. 152 

-Malpeque harbor..238 

-lake. 90 

-Narrows, Beaujeu channel tides. 476 

-passage, Beaujeu channel.. 474 

-point, Anticosti; light. 104 

-— -to North point; cup- 

rent. 105 

-— Chaleur bay. 291 

-light. 292 

-Orleans island. 488 

-Pictou island; light. 154 

--Prince Edward island; 

light. 215 

-tides, tidal 


streams.. 139j 
216 

reef, Prince Edward island, 


whistling buoy. 216 

-river, Pictou. 148 

-rocks, Seven islands. 403 

-Saint rock. 382 

-Sand. 503 

-passage. 505 

















































































































INDEX. 


591 


Page. 

Walrus spit, Prince Edward island... 215 


Westaways Farm light. 223 

Western bank, Charlottetown harbor. 199 

— lightvessel, lake St. Peter. 527 

-narrows, North Traverse. 503 

-passage, Amet sound, directions. 161 

Whale channel. 345 

-head. 357 

-island, Eskimo islands; beacon. 342 

-Mingan group. 385 

-patch and reef. 342 

Wharf range Crapaud road. 207 

Wheatley river. 235 

Wheeler bar. 221, 225 

Whelp rock. 343 

White cliff. 102 

-head Perc6 bay light. 295 

-Horse reef. 90 

-islet. 440 

-reef; lightvessel. 440, 441 

-- point, port Daniel, light. 292 

-sands settlement. 191 

Whittle, cape. 332,370 

— to Natashkwan point, navi¬ 
gation, tidal streams, etc. 369 

-rocks. 370 

Widow point. 151,152 

Wild fowl reef. 423 

Williamsburg canals. 550 

Wilmot river. 210 

Wilson bank, point. 266 

Windmill Point basin. 543 


Page. 

Winds, weather. 44 

Windsor town. 551 

Winter creek. 234, 235 

--portage. 246 

Wireless telegraph stations. 58 

Wolf bay and island, cape Whittle.. 370 

—— island, Magdalen islands. 91 

Wolfe cape. 216 

-cove. 491, 495 

--river. 215 

Wood island, Hunting island. 382 

-Prince Edward island; 

lights. 191 

-channel. 194 

-islet, Fish harbor. 353 

-Pillar islet.470 

Wreck bay, West bay, Anticosti.... 96 

-cove. 137 

-marking vessel, lights. 57 

-point. 98,108 

Wright bank. 259 

Wrights range lights. 207 

Wye rock. 479 

Y. 

Yacta point. 284 

Yamachiche bend lightbuoy. 526 

-point. 526 

York river. 200 


z. 

Zephyr rock, lightbuoy, buoys 


174 






























































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